Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

From: "Tim Gaines" <[email-masked]>
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2026 17:00:57 +0000

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It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead of under 
my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Somehow I 
must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever 
continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The 
Triumph Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and though I 
was discouraged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.

First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of decades 
ago and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible 
performance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on 
the "Yakov's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that 
showed how to refurbish them. I did what he did and got a similar result 
where much more force was needed to move the levers. I really think they 
are going to work as is, but if not I'll get them done by one of the 
shops mentioned by others here.

Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks that 
had appeared on the left side of the cross member (gas tank out of 
course). I thought I could hold the pieces together with C-clamps and 
then spot weld them in a few places from underneath, up into the 
channel. The idea was to then add more to the welds in the channel and 
then weld patches to the outer surfaces of the channel that I would cut 
from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a couple of spot welds done, but 
the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty wide, and it was very 
hard to see anything when the nozzle and my hand blocked the light. The 
killer was my discovery of another crack farther up near the 
differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a local welder 
who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a stick 
weld up there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he 
thought the cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that 
point because I just couldn't imagine incurring the expense of a 
frame-off job to install the RATCO Differential Tower replacement after 
post-Helene clearing and tree work had depleted our accounts.

A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know 
that the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame. 
"Read the instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the 
process sounded very doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to Bob 
at RATCO, and got some good advice about carefully checking my frame for 
rust before proceeding. The cross member set up for lever shocks was not 
in stock, but it is likely to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have 
been busy following the instructions. I'll briefly describe how things 
have gone for those who might be thinking of the same solution.

There was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficult 
to do without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from 
the trailing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc 
nuts holding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of 
mine came out nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud 
and nut unit re-tightened after several turns out. It was extremely 
tight and I feared stripping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing 
it out. It took several hours (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid 
Wrench, turning back in and then out, tapping the surrounding metal, 
applying heat with a heat gun (a torch might have been too much for the 
aluminum) to loosen the nut. It seemed interminable, but I did begin to 
feel that the nut was backing out a little farther on the stud, and it 
did finally give leaving the stud and arm threads intact. Whew. Another 
Yakov video showed how to simply pull out the hubs (no need to do 
anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I borrowed a hub puller 
with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got it refunded after 
pulling the hubs in 90 min).

I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to 
slice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later 
to a frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a 
friend's Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick 
cutting wheel for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the 
front side of the old cross member to separate it from the frame were 
about 6" long and took less than a minute each! The same cuts on the 
back side of the old cross were hindered by the bottom of the trunk area 
where the gas tank resides. Only about an inch of the cutting wheel 
could cut until the body of the angle grinder was blocked from moving 
farther in. This was incredibly discouraging, and I think it is the only 
flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. Maybe there are low profile 
angle grinders that could work? I finally hit on the idea using my 
saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I do have a few of 
my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the rest of the way 
and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding wheel to smooth out 
the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, and that has gone 
well.

Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. 
The hardest part (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old 
ones worn) over the splines in the shafts before pushing them through 
the trailing arms (held up with a scrap piece of wood). This next is the 
best thing about the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to place a jack under 
the diff, remove the 4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 in the old 
cross), and then lowering the jack to allow the diff to settle into a 
cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft. The only thing left holding 
the old cross in place is an easily accessed half inch weld on each 
frame rail. Should take about a minute to cut through those and then 
pull out the old cross. There will be more grinding to smooth the frame 
surface in preparation for the new cross member. That cross will be 
positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 stationary 
forward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new cross. 
Ingenious! At that point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do the 
welding to the frame.

The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The welder 
charges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. Maybe 
$200 or so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. That is 
more than I thought it would take originally, but this is much better 
than having an iffy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until . . 
=2E ?

Tim

------ Original Message ------
>From "Stan Foster" <[email-masked]>
To "Tim Gaines" <[email-masked]>; "Triumphs" 
<[email-masked]>
Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM
Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

>I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn 
>off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back 
>to lever arm schocks.
>
>
>
>Stan
>
>
>
>From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Tim 
>Gaines
>Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
>To: Triumphs <[email-masked]>
>Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
>
>
>
>I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 
>1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I 
>decided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when 
>I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no 
>such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the 
>left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had 
>cracked near where the after market shock mount adaptor bolts on. I did 
>a quick check with the Moss parts catalog and that cross member is not 
>available with them. So, I'm wondering if this shock mount replacement 
>for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of decades ago) was a bad 
>idea and put too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me 
>that there may be some folks out there who have gone through this and 
>can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
>
>
>
>That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the 
>cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, 
>and I have a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I 
>really don't like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking 
>that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, but is this 
>really something that can be fixed that way?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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<body><div>It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead=
 of under my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Some=
how I must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever =
continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The Triump=
h Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and though I was disco=
uraged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.</div><div><br =
/></div><div>First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple =
of decades ago and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible pe=
rformance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on the "Ya=
kov's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that showed how to=
 refurbish them. I did what he did and got a similar result where much more=
 force was needed to move the levers. I really think they are going to work=
 as is, but if not I'll get them done by one of the shops mentioned by other=
s here.</div><div><br /></div><div>Second, I did embark on an attempt to we=
ld up and patch the cracks that had appeared on the left side of the cross=
 member (gas tank out of course). I thought I could hold the pieces together =
with C-clamps and then spot weld them in a few places from underneath, up=
 into the channel. The idea was to then add more to the welds in the channel =
and then weld patches to the outer surfaces of the channel that I would cu=
t from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a couple of spot welds done, but the =
channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty wide, and it was very hard to=
 see anything when the nozzle and my hand blocked the light. The killer was=
 my discovery of another crack farther up near the differential that was in=
 an even narrower spot. I called a local welder who was happy to come take a =
look at the possibility of doing a stick weld up there, but he said there=
 was no way it could be done, and he thought the cracking would spread anywa=
y. Total discouragement at that point because I just couldn't imagine incur=
ring the expense of a frame-off job to install the RATCO Differential Tower =
replacement after post-Helene clearing and tree work had depleted our acco=
unts.</div><div><br /></div><div>A very helpful post on The Triumph Experie=
nce (from Ken D) let me know that the RATCO replacement could be done witho=
ut removing the frame. "Read the instructions on the RATCO site," he said.=
 I did, and the process sounded very doable, even for this 78 year old. I ta=
lked to Bob at RATCO, and got some good advice about carefully checking my=
 frame for rust before proceeding. The cross member set up for lever shocks=
 was not in stock, but it is likely to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I hav=
e been busy following the instructions. I'll briefly describe how things ha=
ve gone for those who might be thinking of the same solution.</div><div><br =
/></div><div>There was some initial frame prep required that would be very =
difficult to do without first making room by removing the hubs and half ax=
les from the trailing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 =
nyloc nuts holding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one=
 of mine came out nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud=
 and nut unit re-tightened after several turns out. It was extremely tight a=
nd I feared stripping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing it out. It =
took several hours (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid Wrench, turn=
ing back in and then out, tapping the surrounding metal, applying heat with =
a heat gun (a torch might have been too much for the aluminum) to loosen t=
he nut. It seemed interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was ba=
cking out a little farther on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the =
stud and arm threads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simpl=
y pull out the hubs (no need to do anything with the diff). Mine were stuck=
, but I borrowed a hub puller with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed=
 $175, got it refunded after pulling the hubs in 90 min).=C2=A0</div><div><b=
r /></div><div>I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting =
wheel to slice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded=
 later to a frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed =
a friend's Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick =
cutting wheel for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the front=
 side of the old cross member to separate it from the frame were about 6" lo=
ng and took less than a minute each! The same cuts on the back side of the=
 old cross were hindered by the bottom of the trunk area where the gas tank=
 resides. Only about an inch of the cutting wheel could cut until the body o=
f the angle grinder was blocked from moving farther in. This was incredibly =
discouraging, and I think it is the only flaw in the instructions provided =
by RATCO. Maybe there are low profile angle grinders that could work? I fi=
nally hit on the idea using my saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutti=
ng blade (I do have a few of my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cu=
tting the rest of the way and took only a few minutes. I have used a grindi=
ng wheel to smooth out the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts,=
 and that has gone well.</div><div><br /></div><div>Yesterday I reinstalled=
 the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. The hardest part (not really=
 bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old ones worn) over the splines in t=
he shafts before pushing them through the trailing arms (held up with a scr=
ap piece of wood). This next is the best thing about the whole job. Tomorro=
w I plan to place a jack under the diff, remove the 4 nuts holding it to th=
e mounts (2 in the old cross), and then lowering the jack to allow the diff =
to settle into a cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft. The only thing =
left holding the old cross in place is an easily accessed half inch weld o=
n each frame rail. Should take about a minute to cut through those and then =
pull out the old cross. There will be more grinding to smooth the frame su=
rface in preparation for the new cross member. That cross will be positione=
d by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 stationary forward mounts a=
nd into the mounts on the temporarily movable new cross. Ingenious! At that =
point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do the welding to the frame.</div=
><div><br /></div><div>The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus=
 shipping. The welder charges by the hour, but I don't think it should take=
 too long. Maybe $200 or so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fi=
x. That is more than I thought it would take originally, but this is much b=
etter than having an iffy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until=
 . . . ?</div><div><br /></div><div>Tim=C2=A0=C2=A0</div><div><br /></div><d=
iv>=C2=A0</div>
<div x-em-replyforwardheader=3D""><br /></div>
<div>
<div>------ Original Message ------</div>
<div>From "Stan Foster" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">stan@redtr6.=
com</a>&gt;</div>
<div>To "Tim Gaines" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">mtgaines@pr=
esby.edu</a>&gt;; "Triumphs" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]"=
>[email-masked]</a>&gt;</div>
<div>Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM</div>
<div>Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</div></div><div x-em-quote=
=3D""><br /></div>
<div id=3D"x1b44cab5f9b34d1" style=3D"word-wrap:break-word"><blockquote cit=
e=3D"[email-masked]=
look.com" type=3D"cite" class=3D"cite2">

<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt">I had those bracket=
s and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off the frame. I fitted=
 the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever arm schocks.<o:p xml=
ns:o=3D"#unknown"></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt"><o:p xmlns:o=3D"#un=
known">=C2=A0</o:p></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt">Stan<o:p xmlns:o=3D=
"#unknown"></o:p></span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt"><o:p xmlns:o=3D"#un=
known">=C2=A0</o:p></span></p>
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in=
 0in 0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;font-family:&quot=
;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif">From:</span></b><span style=3D"font-size:11.0pt;=
font-family:&quot;Calibri&quot;,sans-serif"> Triumphs &lt;triumphs-bounces@=
autox.team.net&gt;
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Tim Gaines<br />
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM<br />
<b>To:</b> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br />
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break<o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown"></=
o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown">=C2=A0</o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
-serif">I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in t=
he 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decid=
ed to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem
 quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose,=
 but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the=
 left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked =
near where the after market shock
 mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog an=
d that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this s=
hock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of dec=
ades ago) was a bad idea and put
 too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be=
 some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a=
 fix should be attempted.
<o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown"></o:p></span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
-serif"><o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown">=C2=A0</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
-serif">That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of=
 the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, =
and I have a mig welder, but I have never done
 anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank ei=
ther. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, b=
ut is this really something that can be fixed that way?
<o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown"></o:p></span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
-serif"><o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown">=C2=A0</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
-serif">=C2=A0<o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown"></o:p></span></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
-serif"><o:p xmlns:o=3D"#unknown">=C2=A0</o:p></span></p>
</div>
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<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:&quot;Segoe UI&quot;,sans=
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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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---

From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2026 11:20:53 +0000 (UTC)

--===============6095993328259438148==
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Here's a thought.=C2=A0 Ratco sells a Coil-Over conversion kit that doesn't=
 use the stock shock mounts at all.=C2=A0 Have you considered that?
Dave=20

=20

    On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim Gaines <mtgaines@pr=
esby.edu> wrote:  =20

 It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead of under m=
y TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Somehow I must=
 have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever continued=
 with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The Triumph Experien=
ce" where I got some more recommendations, and though I was discouraged for=
 a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.
First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of decades ag=
o and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible performance. The=
y were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on the "Yakov's Beauties=
" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that showed how to refurbish them=
. I did what he did and got a similar result where much more force was need=
ed to move the levers. I really think they are going to work as is, but if =
not I'll get them done by one of the shops mentioned by others here.
Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up and patch the cracks that had=
 appeared on the left side of the cross member (gas tank out of course). I =
thought I could hold the pieces together with C-clamps and then spot weld t=
hem in a few places from underneath, up into the channel. The idea was to t=
hen add more to the welds in the channel and then weld patches to the outer=
 surfaces of the channel that I would cut from 14 gauge sheet steel. I did =
get a couple of spot welds done, but the channel is narrow, the MIG nozzle =
is pretty wide, and it was very hard to see anything when the nozzle and my=
 hand blocked the light. The killer was my discovery of another crack farth=
er up near the differential that was in an even narrower spot. I called a l=
ocal welder who was happy to come take a look at the possibility of doing a=
 stick weld up there, but he said there was no way it could be done, and he=
 thought the cracking would spread anyway. Total discouragement at that poi=
nt because I just couldn't imagine incurring the expense of a frame-off job=
 to install the RATCO Differential Tower replacement after post-Helene clea=
ring and tree work had depleted our accounts.
A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (from Ken D) let me know that=
 the RATCO replacement could be done without removing the frame. "Read the =
instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, and the process sounded ve=
ry doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to Bob at RATCO, and got som=
e good advice about carefully checking my frame for rust before proceeding.=
 The cross member set up for lever shocks was not in stock, but it is likel=
y to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have been busy following the instruc=
tions. I'll briefly describe how things have gone for those who might be th=
inking of the same solution.
There was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficult to =
do without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from the t=
railing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc nuts ho=
lding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of mine came o=
ut nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud and nut unit r=
e-tightened after several turns out. It was extremely tight and I feared st=
ripping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing it out. It took several =
hours (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back in an=
d then out, tapping the surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat gun (a=
 torch might have been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut. It see=
med interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was backing out a li=
ttle farther on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the stud and arm =
threads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simply pull out the=
 hubs (no need to do anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I borrow=
ed a hub puller with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got it r=
efunded after pulling the hubs in 90 min).=C2=A0
I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to slice=
 the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later to a fram=
e collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a friend's Mak=
ita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick cutting wheel =
for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the front side of the old=
 cross member to separate it from the frame were about 6" long and took les=
s than a minute each! The same cuts on the back side of the old cross were =
hindered by the bottom of the trunk area where the gas tank resides. Only a=
bout an inch of the cutting wheel could cut until the body of the angle gri=
nder was blocked from moving farther in. This was incredibly discouraging, =
and I think it is the only flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. Mayb=
e there are low profile angle grinders that could work? I finally hit on th=
e idea using my saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I do =
have a few of my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the rest =
of the way and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding wheel to smo=
oth out the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, and that has go=
ne well.
Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs using just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. The h=
ardest part (not really bad) was sliding the new rubber boots (old ones wor=
n) over the splines in the shafts before pushing them through the trailing =
arms (held up with a scrap piece of wood). This next is the best thing abou=
t the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to place a jack under the diff, remove the=
 4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 in the old cross), and then lowering th=
e jack to allow the diff to settle into a cradle of the 2 axles and the dri=
ve shaft. The only thing left holding the old cross in place is an easily a=
ccessed half inch weld on each frame rail. Should take about a minute to cu=
t through those and then pull out the old cross. There will be more grindin=
g to smooth the frame surface in preparation for the new cross member. That=
 cross will be positioned by slowly jacking the diff back up into the 2 sta=
tionary forward mounts and into the mounts on the temporarily movable new c=
ross. Ingenious! At that point my nearby pro welder has agreed to do the we=
lding to the frame.
The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The welder ch=
arges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. Maybe $200 or=
 so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. That is more than I =
thought it would take originally, but this is much better than having an if=
fy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until . . . ?
Tim=C2=A0=C2=A0
=C2=A0
------ Original Message ------From "Stan Foster" <[email-masked]>To "Tim G=
aines" <[email-masked]>; "Triumphs" <[email-masked]>Date 10/8=
/2025 5:37:30 PMSubject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break

I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn off t=
he frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to lever a=
rm schocks.
=20
 =C2=A0
=20
Stan
=20
 =C2=A0
=20
From: Triumphs <[email-masked]>On Behalf Of Tim Gaines
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM
To: Triumphs <[email-masked]>
Subject: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break
=20
 =C2=A0
=20
I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me in the 1974 =
TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I decided to so=
rt it out. I thought I had found the problem quickly when I saw that the sp=
are tire securing hook bolt had come loose, but no such luck. When I finall=
y gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the left rear end and removed the t=
ire, I saw that the cross member had cracked near where the after market sh=
ock mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog=
 and that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if thi=
s shock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of =
decades ago) was a bad idea and put too much pressure on that frame member.=
 It occurs to me that there may be some folks out there who have gone throu=
gh this and can tell me just how a fix should be attempted.
=20
 =C2=A0
=20
That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side of the cros=
s member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few years, and I h=
ave a mig welder, but I have never done anything under a car. I really don'=
t like the proximity of the gas tank either. I am thinking that my local pr=
o welder would be the guy to call on, but is this really something that can=
 be fixed that way?
=20
 =C2=A0
=20
=C2=A0
=20
 =C2=A0
=20
 =C2=A0
=20
 =C2=A0
=20
 =C2=A0
=20
 =C2=A0
=20
|=20

  |=20
Virus-free.www.avast.com
  |

 =C2=A0
=20

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0 http://www.team.net/a=
rchive

[email-masked]
 =20
------=_Part_761023_463868211.1773400853600
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp129ed7b5yahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div><div dir=
=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Here's a thought.&nbsp; Ratco sells a Coil-O=
ver conversion kit that doesn't use the stock shock mounts at all.&nbsp; Ha=
ve you considered that?</div><div><br></div><div class=3D"ydp129ed7b5signat=
ure"><div style=3D"color: black; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none=
; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: =
normal; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div style=3D"color: bl=
ack; font-style: normal; font-size-adjust: none; font-weight: normal; font-=
stretch: normal; font-size: 12pt; line-height: normal; font-family: Arial, =
Helvetica, sans-serif;"><div><font size=3D"4">Dave <br></font></div><div><s=
pan style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:black;"><br></sp=
an></div><br></div></div></div></div>
        <div><br></div><div><br></div>
       =20
        </div><div id=3D"ydp215788bdyahoo_quoted_3545343806" class=3D"ydp21=
5788bdyahoo_quoted"><div class=3D"ydp215788bdyahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"fon=
t-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
            <div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
               =20
                <div class=3D"ydp215788bdquoted-text-header">
                        On Thursday, March 12, 2026 at 12:06:49 PM CDT, Tim=
 Gaines &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                    </div>
                </div><div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica=
, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left: 1px solid #cc=
c;padding-left: 8px;margin: 0px 0px 0px 8px" class=3D"ydp215788bdinline_rep=
ly_quote_container" data-split-quote-node=3D"true">
                <div><br></div><div><br></div>
                <div><div id=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621">

<div><div>It is a stormy where I am, so I'm inside with my laptop instead o=
f under my TR6 working to get that rear shock mount cross member out. Someh=
ow I must have deleted some of this thread, and I don't remember if I ever =
continued with my "fix" to the problem. I did carry it over to "The Triumph=
 Experience" where I got some more recommendations, and though I was discou=
raged for a time, I am now very optimistic about my choices.</div><div><br>=
</div><div>First, I got out the lever shocks that I had removed a couple of=
 decades ago and opened them up and found the cause of their horrible perfo=
rmance. They were filled with grease! I found a Youtube video on the "Yakov=
's Beauties" site (so many great Triumph jobs there) that showed how to ref=
urbish them. I did what he did and got a similar result where much more for=
ce was needed to move the levers. I really think they are going to work as =
is, but if not I'll get them done by one of the shops mentioned by others h=
ere.</div><div><br></div><div>Second, I did embark on an attempt to weld up=
 and patch the cracks that had appeared on the left side of the cross membe=
r (gas tank out of course). I thought I could hold the pieces together with=
 C-clamps and then spot weld them in a few places from underneath, up into =
the channel. The idea was to then add more to the welds in the channel and =
then weld patches to the outer surfaces of the channel that I would cut fro=
m 14 gauge sheet steel. I did get a couple of spot welds done, but the chan=
nel is narrow, the MIG nozzle is pretty wide, and it was very hard to see a=
nything when the nozzle and my hand blocked the light. The killer was my di=
scovery of another crack farther up near the differential that was in an ev=
en narrower spot. I called a local welder who was happy to come take a look=
 at the possibility of doing a stick weld up there, but he said there was n=
o way it could be done, and he thought the cracking would spread anyway. To=
tal discouragement at that point because I just couldn't imagine incurring =
the expense of a frame-off job to install the RATCO Differential Tower repl=
acement after post-Helene clearing and tree work had depleted our accounts.=
</div><div><br></div><div>A very helpful post on The Triumph Experience (fr=
om Ken D) let me know that the RATCO replacement could be done without remo=
ving the frame. "Read the instructions on the RATCO site," he said. I did, =
and the process sounded very doable, even for this 78 year old. I talked to=
 Bob at RATCO, and got some good advice about carefully checking my frame f=
or rust before proceeding. The cross member set up for lever shocks was not=
 in stock, but it is likely to be shipped next week. Meanwhile I have been =
busy following the instructions. I'll briefly describe how things have gone=
 for those who might be thinking of the same solution.</div><div><br></div>=
<div>There was some initial frame prep required that would be very difficul=
t to do without first making room by removing the hubs and half axles from =
the trailing arms and letting the arms hang lower. Each side has 6 nyloc nu=
ts holding the hub to the cast aluminum trailing arm. All but one of mine c=
ame out nicely, but one nut was frozen to its stud, and that stud and nut u=
nit re-tightened after several turns out. It was extremely tight and I fear=
ed stripping the aluminum threads in the arm by forcing it out. It took sev=
eral hours (over a couple of days) of spraying Liquid Wrench, turning back =
in and then out, tapping the surrounding metal, applying heat with a heat g=
un (a torch might have been too much for the aluminum) to loosen the nut. I=
t seemed interminable, but I did begin to feel that the nut was backing out=
 a little farther on the stud, and it did finally give leaving the stud and=
 arm threads intact. Whew. Another Yakov video showed how to simply pull ou=
t the hubs (no need to do anything with the diff). Mine were stuck, but I b=
orrowed a hub puller with a slide hammer from Advance Auto (payed $175, got=
 it refunded after pulling the hubs in 90 min).&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><=
div>I used my little air compression driven grinder with cutting wheel to s=
lice the shock bump stops from the frame sides (to be re-welded later to a =
frame collar in the RATCO kit). It was a tedious job. I borrowed a friend's=
 Makita electric angle grinder with a 4.5" diameter, .040" thick cutting wh=
eel for the cuts to the old cross member. The cuts on the front side of the=
 old cross member to separate it from the frame were about 6" long and took=
 less than a minute each! The same cuts on the back side of the old cross w=
ere hindered by the bottom of the trunk area where the gas tank resides. On=
ly about an inch of the cutting wheel could cut until the body of the angle=
 grinder was blocked from moving farther in. This was incredibly discouragi=
ng, and I think it is the only flaw in the instructions provided by RATCO. =
Maybe there are low profile angle grinders that could work? I finally hit o=
n the idea using my saws-all with a good long Diablo metal-cutting blade (I=
 do have a few of my own tools at hand). It did a good job of cutting the r=
est of the way and took only a few minutes. I have used a grinding wheel to=
 smooth out the metal left on the frame after some of the cuts, and that ha=
s gone well.</div><div><br></div><div>Yesterday I reinstalled the hubs usin=
g just 2 new nyloc nuts on each. The hardest part (not really bad) was slid=
ing the new rubber boots (old ones worn) over the splines in the shafts bef=
ore pushing them through the trailing arms (held up with a scrap piece of w=
ood). This next is the best thing about the whole job. Tomorrow I plan to p=
lace a jack under the diff, remove the 4 nuts holding it to the mounts (2 i=
n the old cross), and then lowering the jack to allow the diff to settle in=
to a cradle of the 2 axles and the drive shaft. The only thing left holding=
 the old cross in place is an easily accessed half inch weld on each frame =
rail. Should take about a minute to cut through those and then pull out the=
 old cross. There will be more grinding to smooth the frame surface in prep=
aration for the new cross member. That cross will be positioned by slowly j=
acking the diff back up into the 2 stationary forward mounts and into the m=
ounts on the temporarily movable new cross. Ingenious! At that point my nea=
rby pro welder has agreed to do the welding to the frame.</div><div><br></d=
iv><div>The current price tag on the RATCO kit is $375 plus shipping. The w=
elder charges by the hour, but I don't think it should take too long. Maybe=
 $200 or so there; certainly less than $800 total for the fix. That is more=
 than I thought it would take originally, but this is much better than havi=
ng an iffy patch job or a car that sits in the garage until . . . ?</div><d=
iv><br></div><div>Tim&nbsp;&nbsp;</div><div><br></div><div>&nbsp;</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>
<div>------ Original Message ------</div>
<div>From "Stan Foster" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_b=
lank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</div>
<div>To "Tim Gaines" &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_=
blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;; "Triumphs" =
&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nor=
eferrer noopener">[email-masked]</a>&gt;</div>
<div>Date 10/8/2025 5:37:30 PM</div>
<div>Subject RE: [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</div></div><div><br></div>
<div id=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621x1b44cab5f9b34d1"><blockquote type=3D"ci=
te" class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621cite2">

<div class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621WordSection1">
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.=
0pt;">I had those brackets and the stress caused the cross ember to be torn=
 off the frame. I fitted the cross member from RATCO and switched back to l=
ever arm schocks.</span></p>=20
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.=
0pt;"> &nbsp;</span></p>=20
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.=
0pt;">Stan</span></p>=20
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:11.=
0pt;"> &nbsp;</span></p>=20
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in;">
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"font-size:=
11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;">From:</span></b><span style=3D"font-size:11=
.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;"> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]=
&gt;
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Tim Gaines<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, October 8, 2025 4:37 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR6 rear shock mount break</span></p>=20
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"> &nbsp;</p>=20
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;">I have been hearing a slapping sound either under or behind me =
in the 1974 TR6 when I encounter even slightly rough pavement, so today I d=
ecided to sort it out. I thought I had found the problem
 quickly when I saw that the spare tire securing hook bolt had come loose, =
but no such luck. When I finally gave up on simple fixes and jacked up the =
left rear end and removed the tire, I saw that the cross member had cracked=
 near where the after market shock
 mount adaptor bolts on. I did a quick check with the Moss parts catalog an=
d that cross member is not available with them. So, I'm wondering if this s=
hock mount replacement for the old lever shock (I installed a couple of dec=
ades ago) was a bad idea and put
 too much pressure on that frame member. It occurs to me that there may be =
some folks out there who have gone through this and can tell me just how a =
fix should be attempted.
</span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;">That crack shown in the photo seems to be only on the back side=
 of the cross member. I have learned some welding skills in the last few ye=
ars, and I have a mig welder, but I have never done
 anything under a car. I really don't like the proximity of the gas tank ei=
ther. I am thinking that my local pro welder would be the guy to call on, b=
ut is this really something that can be fixed that way?
</span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;">&nbsp;</span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p>=20
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p>=20
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p>=20
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div id=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-family:s=
ans-serif;"> &nbsp;</span></p>=20
<table border=3D"1" cellspacing=3D"5" cellpadding=3D"0" style=3D"border:non=
e;border-top:solid #D3D4DE 1.0pt;" class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNorm=
alTable">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td width=3D"55" style=3D"width:41.25pt;border:none;padding:9.75pt .75pt .7=
5pt .75pt;">
<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"><a href=3D"https://www.avast=
.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;utm_source=3Dlink&amp;utm_campaign=3D=
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r noopener"><span style=3D"font-family:sans-serif;text-decoration:none;"><i=
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<td width=3D"470" style=3D"width:352.5pt;border:none;padding:9.0pt .75pt .7=
5pt .75pt;">
<p style=3D"line-height:13.5pt;" class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal=
"><span style=3D"font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;color:#41424E;">Vi=
rus-free.<a href=3D"https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=3Demail&amp;=
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t" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer noopener"><span style=3D"color:#4453=
EA;">www.avast.com</span></a></span></p>=20
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
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<p class=3D"ydp215788bdyiv2373789621MsoNormal"> &nbsp;</p>=20
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