[6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH master cylinder..

[George Loriot]

Listersthanks to everyone's suggestions I'm a happy camper once again.  The
clutch I-won't-disengage-all-the-way problem was a combination of:  egg-shaped
holes in the pedal arm and the master cylinder pushrod, slight leak in master
cylinder, weak return spring in slave cylinder,  and probably needed some
bleeding.  It looks like the dreaded clutch fork pin was ok, since now the
cluthc is releasing nicely.  I had a machinist reposition and drill a new
bushing in both the arm and pushrod, new clevis pin.  I lightly honed both
cylinders and installed new seals and return spring, and replaced the flexible
hose (it looked a little bulgy, a technical term with a British accent).Bled
the system and I'm back on the road again.  Thanks to all listers for their
suggestions;  this list is great.  it's saved my tush on several occasions.
George Loriot1976 TR5

From: tr6taylor at webtv.net
To: george_loriot at hotmail.com
CC: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH
master cylinder..
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 18:12:33 +0000







George---Have the machinist find the center or the original hole in the pedal
arm and bore it out to accept a 7/16x5/16 inch bushing. As you said, then all
that will be required is pushing out the worn bushing and squeezing in the
new. Next time!

An oval in the push rod is harder to fix. Don't know of any parts supplier
that will sell you a new rod, unless you spring for a whole new MC.  You you
want, you can cut the thru the length of the pushrod, add an eigth inch to it,
and braze it back together. This will compensate for the loss of length due to
wear. Not really necessary, but do-able.

Dick