[6pack] Alternator: Moss or TRF...or other

[Robert M. Lang]

Hi,

Try:

www.dbelectrical.com

One wire:

http://www.dbelectrical.com/c-10635-regular-output.aspx

or

Three wire:

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9038-new-chevy-mini-alternator-denso-street-rod-race-3-wire.aspx

You probably want the one-wire unit as it has a higher output capacity, 50 
amps. I use the three-wire unit because my race car has a fan and the 
ignition and that's it. I don't need a zillion amps for that! Also, it 
weighs almost exactly 5 lb which is stupid light. The lightest one I found 
and about equiv (in weight / output) than the Lucas ACR17 (which is the 
lightest of that series that I've found).

The best part was that the 3-wire alternator was about $80 shipped to my 
door for a BRAND NEW ALTERNATOR and no core exchange. The one-wire unit is 
about $10 more shipped to your door.

You'll need to get some spacers to align the pulley to your crank and 
water pump, I found them at the local hardware store (5/16 ID x 1/2 or 3/4 
OD aluminum) at the proper thickness (which I forgot, but I think it's 
3/8"). I used a shortened fan belt which I think is 1135 mm long. It was a 
pretty easy conversion. I also used an off the shelf alternator bracket 
from Mr. Gasket that I cut down - much better than the stock piece and it 
all mounts extremely solid.

I can probably get part numbers if you need them, but I bought the 
alternator, mounted the swivel end to get the alignment and then bought 
the bracket and spacers. Total installation time was 30 - 40 minutes.

Total cost including a new chrome bracket was about $110 or less ($80 for 
the alt., $20 for the bracket, $5 for bolts (I kept the 6mm metric threads 
in the case for the belt tension bolt, so I bought a new one and washer) 
and another $5 or so for the spacers.)

I am _very happy_ with the results.

Side benefit - the alternator shaft is the same size as the Lucas unit so 
you can swap pulleys if you need to. Note, however, that if you have fancy 
aluminum pulleys, you may need to back-cut the pulley to get clearance 
with the alternator body.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


On Wed, 11 Jul 2012, James_ TR6 wrote:

>
> thanks!
> where could i get a Denso? cost?one reply pointed me to a $180 lucas alternator.
>
>
>> Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 15:30:40 -0400
>> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
>> To: jattr6 at hotmail.com
>> Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternator: Moss or TRF...or other
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> If the alternator light comes on sometimes and the battery drains when not
>> in use, there's a pretty good chance the alternator is bad. I've seen
>> diodes in the alternator fail that will act like this.
>>
>> If the unit tested out okay, I'd be suspscious of the tester.
>>
>> But your TR6 has a voltmeter, if you jump start the car and run it, what
>> is the voltage reading? If you have a bad diode in the rectifier, you
>> won't see the optimal charging voltage of 13.5 or so volts. I had one burn
>> up one time and all I could get was 12 volts at the meter. It was enough
>> to drive home and the battery was completely flat when I got home.
>>
>> My money is on the alternator (or the integrated voltage regulator).
>>
>> I replaced the alternators on my TR6's years ago with AC Delco units and
>> now I'm switching to Denso units. Cheaper and MUCH MUCH better than any
>> Lucas alternator ever was.
>>
>> regards,
>> rml
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
>> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
>> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------