[6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...

[Mark Hooper]

Sorry to hear of the quote shock. You could always try the simple "scrape it down and then coat with POR" method. Before that, a bit of braising could cover many sins. It would definitely help in the floorpan area. Actually I was always under the impression that the replacements were designed to be welded "in situ" as it were. I've certainly seen it done enough. Perfection, maybe not, but perfection is awfully expensive.
 
As to the Silicone question: Lord I do tire of the fright-mongers. Silicone works. Period. After this much time, one would think this question had been resolved, if only by the continued survival of the people who have converted. 
 
I asked a couple of list gurus like Randall and then decided to give it a go. I was so sick of getting my paint ruined by the seemingly unavoidable TR drips.
I did the bare minimum of work to switch over. I just drained as much of the old fluid as I could, by unbolting the calipers and turning them over to drain. I pumped a bottle of Dot5 through to clean the lines and then just tightened the valves. I think I bled the system a little once or twice in the next couple of days to get a little air out and that was it. 
 
I haven't seen a wrinkle in the paint or had a joint freeze up on the brake lines in the 10 years since I changed. Brakes are nice and stiff, clutch is very good. It seems to me that the brake MC and clutch MC seals last longer with the smoother feel of the silicone fluid. 
 
Anyway, one of the best changes I ever made to the car. Just my opinion, and you know what they say about those...
 
Cheers,
 
Mark Hooper
1972 TR6



From: 6pack [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James_ via 6pack
Sent: June-09-15 4:42 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...
 
Hi all…
 
First….I am so depressed - I may sell the TR6 and walk away….seriously…even after 22 years of my entire adult life.
 
I just met and got a quote from a guy that generally works on Austin Healey's…and I gather he does very high end work….and accustom to people with deep pockets.
So that was probably my mistake, but still is probably the best approach to have work done 100% thorough and correct.
 
First: I was told floor pans require the car body to be off the frame to replace.
First overwhelming thought…body of the car? ugh.
 
Second: I have a few bad spots of rust that need panels fabricated and welded. The worse is under the master cylinder and rust has
eaten through the inner and outer wheel arch. It affects the pedal box too.
(I can send a picture if anyone is interested)
 
So the guy was really wanting the body removed, sand blasted, panels repaired and powder coated.
Sounds awesome. But it all gets down to time and money. a LOT of money and the rest of the year.
Roughly, looking at $10-20K. for a TR6. yikes. Not sure I love the car that much. I know repairing old cars will ALWAYS cost more than a car is worth.
I know that. Don't lecture about that. But...my rust is not a 'rust bucket' by any means. And for $20K I can find a car that comes close to showroom condition!!!
 
I guess I am so depressed / disappointed / overwhelmed / sad / hmmmm….what else…
 
…I am at a loss as to what to do. One option: Say screw it and live with the rotten areas, put the car back to gather and drive it.
or:
Sell the dang thing and walk away. Maybe I finally reached that "mercy…mercy…no more…make it stop" stage.
- I doubt I could bring myself to buy a TR6 again….I mean, what's the point. Mine isn't THAT awful and  I know the history of THIS car.
 
Or:
another option….(my original desire/thought) is to have the areas repaired and new floor boards installed by someone that does a really good welding job 
but not nearly as intense of a procedure or expensive. I know…you get what you pay for. 
 
This winter: I removed everything from the engine to detail it out and everything is ready to go back in once the rust was fixed and engine bay painted.
At this point, I may as well sell off all the PARTS - they'd be worth more they the car as a whole at this point. And everything is removed!
(only half kidding….)
 
 
Oh, one more thing….
this guy is DEAD set against my thought of switching to Silicone brake fluid. I mean, DEAD set against and talking about warranty being voided if I use it.
I looked at him and said: "What Warranty is that?" "It isn't like there is a dealership I can go to" "I buy parts, I put them on." I am the warranty department!
He mentioned the warranty of the parts I buy from Moss, etc. hmmmm….They void it if the silicone falls the parts.
Really? Moss SELLS Silicone brake fluid. 
I suspect all this is because his DAD is against Silicone and he just follows what his dad hates. 
 
I was recently curious why auto stores don't seem to carry DOT 5 Silicone as much as the other types. So now with this restoration guy's comments…is Silicone THAT bad/poorly rated?
 
Well, any advice or words of comfort?
 
James
 
1976 TR6 
 
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