[6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...

[alan salvatore]

If the outer edges of the floor pan is good then you can cut and patch in a
new floor pan.
If not then tub off.
If inner rocker is bad, tub off.
Depends on where the bad area is.
I am doing one now that had a small area but it ran under the firewall and
the frame was also in the way. Plus I wanted to blast the frame, so we took
the body off.
I can see 10K with paint for floors, battery box, would have to see inner
fender.
I have been putting silicone in every TR6 that crosses my path for the last
15 years.
Al
On Jun 9, 2015 4:55 PM, "James_ via 6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi all…
>
> First….I am so depressed - I may sell the TR6 and walk
> away….seriously…even after 22 years of my entire adult life.
>
> I just met and got a quote from a guy that generally works on Austin
> Healey's…and I gather he does very high end work….and accustom to people
> with deep pockets.
> So that was probably my mistake, but still is probably the best approach
> to have work done 100% thorough and correct.
>
> First: I was told floor pans require the car body to be off the frame to
> replace.
> First overwhelming thought…body of the car? ugh.
>
> Second: I have a few bad spots of rust that need panels fabricated and
> welded. The worse is under the master cylinder and rust has
> eaten through the inner and outer wheel arch. It affects the pedal box too.
> (I can send a picture if anyone is interested)
>
> So the guy was really wanting the body removed, sand blasted, panels
> repaired and powder coated.
> Sounds awesome. But it all gets down to time and money. a LOT of money and
> the rest of the year.
> Roughly, looking at $10-20K. for a TR6. yikes. Not sure I love the car
> that much. I know repairing old cars will ALWAYS cost more than a car is
> worth.
> I know that. Don't lecture about that. But...my rust is not a 'rust
> bucket' by any means. And for $20K I can find a car that comes close to
> showroom condition!!!
>
> I guess I am so depressed / disappointed / overwhelmed / sad / hmmmm….what
> else…
>
> …I am at a loss as to what to do. One option: Say screw it and live with
> the rotten areas, put the car back to gather and drive it.
> or:
> Sell the dang thing and walk away. Maybe I finally reached that
> "mercy…mercy…no more…make it stop" stage.
> - I doubt I could bring myself to buy a TR6 again….I mean, what's the
> point. Mine isn't THAT awful and  I know the history of THIS car.
>
> Or:
> another option….(my original desire/thought) is to have the areas repaired
> and new floor boards installed by someone that does a really good welding
> job
> but not nearly as intense of a procedure or expensive. I know…you get
> what you pay for.
>
> This winter: I removed everything from the engine to detail it out and
> everything is ready to go back in once the rust was fixed and engine bay
> painted.
> At this point, I may as well sell off all the PARTS - they'd be worth more
> they the car as a whole at this point. And everything is removed!
> (only half kidding….)
>
>
> Oh, one more thing….
> this guy is DEAD set against my thought of switching to Silicone brake
> fluid. I mean, DEAD set against and talking about warranty being voided if
> I use it.
> I looked at him and said: "What Warranty is that?" "It isn't like there is
> a dealership I can go to" "I buy parts, I put them on." I am the warranty
> department!
> He mentioned the warranty of the parts I buy from Moss, etc. hmmmm….They
> void it if the silicone falls the parts.
> Really? Moss SELLS Silicone brake fluid.
> I suspect all this is because his DAD is against Silicone and he just
> follows what his dad hates.
>
> I was recently curious why auto stores don't seem to carry DOT 5 Silicone
> as much as the other types. So now with this restoration guy's comments…is
> Silicone THAT bad/poorly rated?
>
> Well, any advice or words of comfort?
>
> James
>
> 1976 TR6
>
>
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