[6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 11, Issue 8

Tue Jun 9 19:22:29 MDT 2015

Re:   Sheepskin coversHave you thought about Miata seat conversion.  A number of years back  I purchased mine on ebay and installed them for hundreds less then rebuilding, and they're better seats then what came on my 73.  They were out of a mid 90s Miata.   Leather was good,  but some are cloth I believe.  They look right in the 6, with only LBC people noticing the difference
Bruce  

     On Tuesday, June 9, 2015 3:26 PM, "6pack-request at autox.team.net" <6pack-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

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Today's Topics:

  1. Re: sheepskin covers (im sloane)
  2. Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote... (James_)
  3. Re: Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote... (Dale)

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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2015 19:26:00 +0000
From: im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] sheepskin covers
Message-ID: <SNT146-W38FA70D0B3E07D9C2AC0518EBE0 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Yea, (haha) I'd just like to find anything that will "sort of" fit the TR6 seats. VB actually sells a pretty nice canvas cover for the Spitfire. A buddy has a pair and let me borrow one to test sit, but it just doesn't fit the TR6 seat. Spitfire seat bottoms are wide and square compared to TR6 seat's round(ish) bottoms. 
Anything else I can find look like they'll be way too big. If I start doing my seats the right way I know I'll spend $1000+. I might give those VB sheepskin's a try. Need to check the return policy. 
Anybody??
thanks,Sloane :o)

Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2015 17:37:12 +0000
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] sheepskin covers
From: 6pack at autox.team.net

Wow, sheepskin covers, I haven't thought about these in years.  Do they still use the curvaceous models to advertise them in the back pages of men's magazines?
Cheers,  Bruce

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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2015 20:42:08 +0000
From: James_ <jattr6 at hotmail.com>
To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...
Message-ID: <BLU179-W485D95EE2A12D22683189F80BE0 at phx.gbl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Hi all?
First?.I am so depressed - I may sell the TR6 and walk away?.seriously?even after 22 years of my entire adult life.
I just met and got a quote from a guy that generally works on Austin Healey's?and I gather he does very high end work?.and accustom to people with deep pockets.So that was probably my mistake, but still is probably the best approach to have work done 100% thorough and correct.
First: I was told floor pans require the car body to be off the frame to replace.First overwhelming thought?body of the car? ugh.
Second: I have a few bad spots of rust that need panels fabricated and welded. The worse is under the master cylinder and rust haseaten through the inner and outer wheel arch. It affects the pedal box too.(I can send a picture if anyone is interested)
So the guy was really wanting the body removed, sand blasted, panels repaired and powder coated.Sounds awesome. But it all gets down to time and money. a LOT of money and the rest of the year.Roughly, looking at $10-20K. for a TR6. yikes. Not sure I love the car that much. I know repairing old cars will ALWAYS cost more than a car is worth.I know that. Don't lecture about that. But...my rust is not a 'rust bucket' by any means. And for $20K I can find a car that comes close to showroom condition!!!
I guess I am so depressed / disappointed / overwhelmed / sad / hmmmm?.what else?
?I am at a loss as to what to do. One option: Say screw it and live with the rotten areas, put the car back to gather and drive it.or:Sell the dang thing and walk away. Maybe I finally reached that "mercy?mercy?no more?make it stop" stage.- I doubt I could bring myself to buy a TR6 again?.I mean, what's the point. Mine isn't THAT awful and  I know the history of THIS car.
Or:another option?.(my original desire/thought) is to have the areas repaired and new floor boards installed by someone that does a really good welding job but not nearly as intense of a procedure or expensive. I know?you get what you pay for. 
This winter: I removed everything from the engine to detail it out and everything is ready to go back in once the rust was fixed and engine bay painted.At this point, I may as well sell off all the PARTS - they'd be worth more they the car as a whole at this point. And everything is removed!(only half kidding?.)

Oh, one more thing?.this guy is DEAD set against my thought of switching to Silicone brake fluid. I mean, DEAD set against and talking about warranty being voided if I use it.I looked at him and said: "What Warranty is that?" "It isn't like there is a dealership I can go to" "I buy parts, I put them on." I am the warranty department!He mentioned the warranty of the parts I buy from Moss, etc. hmmmm?.They void it if the silicone falls the parts.Really? Moss SELLS Silicone brake fluid. I suspect all this is because his DAD is against Silicone and he just follows what his dad hates. 
I was recently curious why auto stores don't seem to carry DOT 5 Silicone as much as the other types. So now with this restoration guy's comments?is Silicone THAT bad/poorly rated?
Well, any advice or words of comfort?
James
1976 TR6 

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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 9 Jun 2015 21:22:12 +0000 (UTC)
From: Dale <tpdwinch at yahoo.com>
To: James_ <jattr6 at hotmail.com>, "6pack at autox.team.net"
    <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...
Message-ID:
    <1941260026.8321813.1433884932990.JavaMail.yahoo at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

James
The man is correct that it is best to raise the body? to weld the repair panels, but it can be done one at a time with the body still on the frame. Use the new floor pan as a guide to cut out the old panel. Make sure the new panel fits. Have a welder that will travel to your location and tack it in. It does not need to be fully welded at one time. Do each panel this way that needs to be replaced. One thing, do bolt a bar to the A an B post so the door alignment is not lost.
Once all the panels are in place the body can be raise a couple feet off the frame to do any needed welding from underneath. If you get a really good welder he may be able to get deep penetration from the top and fore go the need to raise the body. There are welders that work for structural companies that travel all the time check your local listings.?
For safety, remove the gas tank and put it outside or someplace away from the car.

If you are a member of the 6 pack club check out some of the basket cases others have brought back on there own. 

There is always more than one way to thread a needle. Don't lose hope.?? Dale

      From: James_ via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
 To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> 
 Sent: Tuesday, June 9, 2015 4:42 PM
 Subject: [6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...

Hi all?
First?.I am so depressed - I may sell the TR6 and walk away?.seriously?even after 22 years of my entire adult life.
I just met and got a quote from a guy that generally works on Austin Healey's?and I gather he does very high end work?.and accustom to people with deep pockets.So that was probably my mistake, but still is probably the best approach to have work done 100% thorough and correct.
First: I was told floor pans require the car body to be off the frame to replace.First overwhelming thought?body of the car? ugh.
Second: I have a few bad spots of rust that need panels fabricated and welded. The worse is under the master cylinder and rust haseaten through the inner and outer wheel arch. It affects the pedal box too.(I can send a picture if anyone is interested)
So the guy was really wanting the body removed, sand blasted, panels repaired and powder coated.Sounds awesome. But it all gets down to time and money. a LOT of money and the rest of the year.Roughly, looking at $10-20K. for a TR6. yikes. Not sure I love the car that much. I know repairing old cars will ALWAYS cost more than a car is worth.I know that. Don't lecture about that. But...my rust is not a 'rust bucket' by any means. And for $20K I can?find a car?that?comes close to showroom condition!!!
I guess I am so depressed / disappointed / overwhelmed / sad / hmmmm?.what else?
?I am at a loss as to what to do. One option: Say screw it and live with the rotten areas, put the car back to gather and drive it.or:Sell the dang thing and walk away. Maybe I finally reached that "mercy?mercy?no more?make it stop" stage.- I doubt I could bring myself to buy a TR6 again?.I mean, what's the point. Mine isn't THAT awful and ?I know the history of THIS car.
Or:another option?.(my original desire/thought) is to have the areas repaired and new floor boards installed by someone that does a really good welding job?but not nearly as intense of a procedure?or expensive. I know?you get what you pay for.?
This winter: I removed everything from the engine to detail it out and everything is ready to go back in once the rust was fixed and engine bay painted.At this point, I may as well sell off all the PARTS - they'd be worth more they the car as a whole at this point. And everything is removed!(only half kidding?.)

Oh, one more thing?.this guy is DEAD set against my thought of switching to Silicone brake fluid. I mean, DEAD set against and talking about warranty being voided if I use it.I looked at him and said: "What Warranty is that?" "It isn't like there is a dealership I can go to" "I buy parts, I put them on." I am the warranty department!He mentioned the warranty of the parts I buy from Moss, etc. hmmmm?.They void it if the silicone falls the parts.Really? Moss SELLS Silicone brake fluid.?I suspect all this is because his DAD is against Silicone and he just follows what his dad hates.?
I was recently curious why?auto stores don't seem to carry DOT 5 Silicone as much as the other types. So now with this restoration guy's comments?is Silicone THAT bad/poorly rated?
Well, any advice or words of comfort?
James
1976 TR6?

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End of 6pack Digest, Vol 11, Issue 8
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