[6pack] Floorpan replacement and Rust repair quote...

[Ashford Little]

Thank you James for posing an interesting conundrum, and one that probably more than a few of us have gone through… or will.  I can’t answer your question, but that doesn’t mean I won’t chip in.  So, I’ll relay a short story in hopes it might help you.  A dozen or so years ago I bought a TR6.  It wasn’t perfect, nor was it represented to be, but as I began to explore things, I noticed that there were some issues that weren’t quite to my liking.  On the rare occasion I drove my car and I hit nature’s wet stuff falling from the sky (yes I’m guilty of driving my car) I noticed that the driver’s side carpet was frequently wet.  One day I decided to figure out what the exact cause of the leakage was.  In an LBC, leakage is a common occurrence, so it could be coming from a variety of place.  My first though was a couple of holes in the firewall where the rubber grommets were worn out.  Maybe, but not really.  Soon thereafter I was cleaning some gunk off of the driver’s side floorpan with a large screwdriver when it went a bit further than I thought it could… straight into the area of the inner fender.  I soon discovered an amoeba shaped hole in the floorpan.  I became upset and depressed.  Then I decided that I really liked driving my car and a little fiberglass could remedy the situation until I did my frame-off restoration.  

Then there is the recognition that our cars are for our enjoyment, and that’s worth something.  So, if you are willing to have some quality work done and a fair price and the end result would be a car you could continue to enjoy for a long time to come, then you might consider going ahead and doing it. In the grand scheme of things, it wouldn’t be that big of a price to pay.  

In other words, who says you can’t buy happiness, especially when it comes with a deep throaty roar.

Ashford Little
ralittle2 at mac.com




> On Jun 9, 2015, at 4:42 PM, James_ via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Hi all…
> 
> First….I am so depressed - I may sell the TR6 and walk away….seriously…even after 22 years of my entire adult life.
> 
> I just met and got a quote from a guy that generally works on Austin Healey's…and I gather he does very high end work….and accustom to people with deep pockets.
> So that was probably my mistake, but still is probably the best approach to have work done 100% thorough and correct.
> 
> First: I was told floor pans require the car body to be off the frame to replace.
> First overwhelming thought…body of the car? ugh.
> 
> Second: I have a few bad spots of rust that need panels fabricated and welded. The worse is under the master cylinder and rust has
> eaten through the inner and outer wheel arch. It affects the pedal box too.
> (I can send a picture if anyone is interested)
> 
> So the guy was really wanting the body removed, sand blasted, panels repaired and powder coated.
> Sounds awesome. But it all gets down to time and money. a LOT of money and the rest of the year.
> Roughly, looking at $10-20K. for a TR6. yikes. Not sure I love the car that much. I know repairing old cars will ALWAYS cost more than a car is worth.
> I know that. Don't lecture about that. But...my rust is not a 'rust bucket' by any means. And for $20K I can find a car that comes close to showroom condition!!!
> 
> I guess I am so depressed / disappointed / overwhelmed / sad / hmmmm….what else…
> 
> …I am at a loss as to what to do. One option: Say screw it and live with the rotten areas, put the car back to gather and drive it.
> or:
> Sell the dang thing and walk away. Maybe I finally reached that "mercy…mercy…no more…make it stop" stage.
> - I doubt I could bring myself to buy a TR6 again….I mean, what's the point. Mine isn't THAT awful and  I know the history of THIS car.
> 
> Or:
> another option….(my original desire/thought) is to have the areas repaired and new floor boards installed by someone that does a really good welding job 
> but not nearly as intense of a procedure or expensive. I know…you get what you pay for. 
> 
> This winter: I removed everything from the engine to detail it out and everything is ready to go back in once the rust was fixed and engine bay painted.
> At this point, I may as well sell off all the PARTS - they'd be worth more they the car as a whole at this point. And everything is removed!
> (only half kidding….)
> 
> 
> Oh, one more thing….
> this guy is DEAD set against my thought of switching to Silicone brake fluid. I mean, DEAD set against and talking about warranty being voided if I use it.
> I looked at him and said: "What Warranty is that?" "It isn't like there is a dealership I can go to" "I buy parts, I put them on." I am the warranty department!
> He mentioned the warranty of the parts I buy from Moss, etc. hmmmm….They void it if the silicone falls the parts.
> Really? Moss SELLS Silicone brake fluid. 
> I suspect all this is because his DAD is against Silicone and he just follows what his dad hates. 
> 
> I was recently curious why auto stores don't seem to carry DOT 5 Silicone as much as the other types. So now with this restoration guy's comments…is Silicone THAT bad/poorly rated?
> 
> Well, any advice or words of comfort?
> 
> James
> 
> 1976 TR6 
> 
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