[6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 42, Issue 7

Sun May 13 22:14:17 MDT 2018

Fun place to stop. Restaurants and gas stations nearby. You could probably get a new helmet in about an hour including a walk through all the contained motorcycle dealerships.

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Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 42, Issue 7

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Today's Topics:

   1. Fwd:  Alternator warning on, ignition off (John North)
   2. Zero oil pressure (James_)
   3. (no subject) (marvin)

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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 12 May 2018 16:44:03 -0400
From: John North <johncnorth at gmail.com>
To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Fwd:  Alternator warning on, ignition off
Message-ID:
        <CABsWjcKTBsTSbuXXsMhVJFrU=3G4CcofJ4vkmioqD2hoo2wrxw at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I had a local alternator shop repair it.   They replaced the rectifier and
regulator.  We talked about how this happened (again) and he talked about
having a flat battery and then jump starting and expecting the alternator
to recharge the battery.   Apparently this puts way too much stress on the
alternator leading to premature failure.   I don't exactly recall doing
that recently, but I am probably guilty.   I am so used to automatic turn
off of lights and other modern conveniences...

John North

On Fri, May 4, 2018 at 5:15 PM, Robert Lang <robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi John,
>
> Sounds like an alternator diode has failed - a competent alternator shop
> can replace the diodes and it is possible to do the job yourself if you
> have a fairly powerful soldering iron. But a shop will clean everything and
> make it look brand new.
>
> The warning light indicates current is flowing through the circuit and
> with the ignition off there should be no current flow there.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Bob Lang
>
>
> On Friday, May 4, 2018, 12:55:09 PM EDT, John North <johncnorth at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for the help Bob.   I do have the correct lamp connected.   I am
> unable to pull off just the N/Y wire from the alternator, because both
> Brown wires and the Brown/Yellow wire are on a single plug that pushes into
> the alternator.   If I remove this connector then the warning lamp goes
> out, but I'm not sure this is definitive.   With the connector removed
> from  the alternator and 12v jumpered to the Brown/Yellow connector, then
> the warning lamp lights.   I have read over Dan Masters book, but I am not
> clear that the Brown/Yellow wire is live only with the alternator turning,
> ie the car running.   Is that the case?   If so, then, as you say, there's
> something amiss in the alternator.   Are the diodes replaceable or am I
> looking at a new alternator?
>
> John North
>
> On Tue, May 1, 2018 at 12:38 PM, Robert Lang <robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> Hi John,
> The first thing I'd do is check to make sure that the proper light is
> inserted in the correct hole. I have switched oil pressure and alternator
> lights around when in a hurry or not paying attention. The alternator light
> should have a brown / yellow wire coming from the alternator and a white
> wire going to the ignition switch. Try pulling the brown yellow wire from
> the alternator and see if the light goes out. If so, there may be a short
> in the alternator diodes. I have seen that happen plenty of times. If the
> ignition light does not go out when you pull that wire form the
> alternation, then you have somehow connected the ignition light to the
> wrong circuit and there's voltage present. Failing that, if you have a a
> test light - poke around to see what's going on, but the basic problem is
> that a brown wire in the circuit is connected to that ignition light and as
> you may know, the browns are hot all the time as well as un-fused, so be
> careful. The only other things that I can think of are related to hooking
> up the wrong lamp in the ignition hole in the tach, so make sure you're
> working on the proper circuit.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Bob Lang
>
>
> On Tuesday, May 1, 2018, 11:44:30 AM EDT, John North via 6pack <
> 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> I have been replacing the dash support and in the course of that
> disconnected  overdrive and other wiring wiring, but now I put things back
> together, the alternator warning light is on even when the ignition is off,
> key removed.   Can't figure this out, anybody got ideas?
>
> John North
> 1976 TR6
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 02:21:49 +0000
From: James_ <jattr6 at hotmail.com>
To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Zero oil pressure
Message-ID:
        <MWHPR13MB1248EFCF6F1CB9ED1A1B7EFC809D0 at MWHPR13MB1248.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

So after a long 3 year total restoration I am at the stage of adding fluids and starting the car. A few hiccups... but one scary one. No oil pressure. Light stays on and gauge reads zero.
I ran the engine for short runs but still would not kick up the pressure.

I wonder if having the oil drained the whole time allowed air in the pump. I researched and others said a new pump needs to be ?primed? with grease.  I recall rebuilding mine years ago and vaguely recall priming it. So maybe that is my issue?

I removed the oil pressure switch, squirted about 6oz of motor oil in there instead of jumping to dropping the oil pan.
But sadly that didn?t work.
Is it possible the entire pump died?
I didn?t do any engine work so has to be a bad pump.

?Sent from my Atari 2600?

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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 13 May 2018 04:38:38 -0500
From: marvin <mgruber921 at aol.com>
To: DLylis <DLylis at hyattvoi.com>, drsandner <drsandner at earthlink.net>,
        6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1526204321.HnSjfouHiSNiFHnSjfU67R at mf-smf-ucb033c2>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

http://moment.picturestock.info

Marvin

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