From john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk Tue Sep 3 06:46:04 2019 From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 13:46:04 +0100 Subject: [6pack] Lucas PI In-Reply-To: <007101d5601b$3f84d0f0$be8e72d0$@uprichard.net> References: <00ca01d55eaf$a6643350$f32c99f0$@uprichard.net> <1C5BD9B2-40D9-4E47-B09C-26949D2519DC@Ukpips.org.uk> <001c01d55f41$441ad5e0$cc5081a0$@uprichard.net> <3D0DBD17-DEBD-439D-8094-10714FAAE165@Ukpips.org.uk> <007101d5601b$3f84d0f0$be8e72d0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: <002a01d56255$8d25bae0$a77130a0$@ukpips.org.uk> Hi, Andrew, Next time you?re in touch with Darryl, pass on my greetings. He probably won?t remember me but many years ago, I met him more than once at GKN Autoparts in the UK. I think he worked for the UK operation? I was Managing Director of GKN Autoparts International under Nigel Walker and Jerry Clancy, both of whom he may remember? 240brake in a TR250, huh? I hope you do a lot of work in other areas to ensure the driveline can take that power and torque, and, more importantly, the brakes are upgraded!!!!! The TR5 isn?t terribly complex in itself but the way the PI system works is way different to Strombergs. Over the years since the fuel injected cars have gained in collector popularity, significant strides have been made in setting them up properly so they run as they should. Around 2000, when the UK moved over to only unleaded fuel, most injected car owners had to have major work done on their metering units and mainly because the unleaded additives were collapsing the original rubber fuel lines. This led to metering units being reconditioned and being reset tto original Lucas specs. However, it soon became clear the settings used by Lucas for when the cars were in production was only the start of where the adjustments needed to be made. Fitting a new reconditioned metering unit was one thing but it was soon determined each engine had differing characteristics and mainly on the vacuum settings that control the amount of back and forth movement of the shuttle within the metering spindle. It?s rather a three-dimensional exercise (and an absolute sod of a job in terms of unit access to adjust) in getting the vacuum set to suit the individual car, while also playing with the varying advance curves on the distributor and synchronising the six throttle butterflies to ensure the mixture isn?t too weak or too rich across the whole opening spectrum. This is a detailed exercise the factory could obviously never do in production, although all the Press cars underwent a detailed check on a regular basis ? and they were all real ?flyers?. This whole fandango is best achieved on a rolling road under varying engine loads ? and not too many enthusiasts have a rolling road near their back door! However, the bottom line is that once all this is set and locked and you?re running ONLY on NGK BP6ES plugs, you?ll have a car that will last a long time without further intervention. If you?re considering a TR5 from the UK or Europe, my recommendation is you get Darryl?s guys at Racetorations to do all that work before the thing is shipped over to you. The only thing to then figure out is what the effect of the higher levels of ethanol you use in US fuel will have on running. I think your gas uses far more ethanol than the European stuff and this could cause issues that will ideally need reviewing once the car is in the States. As I may have mentioned, my own 2.5PI saloon was power enhanced to UK police spec for added performance and this meant the power went up from about 130bhp at the flywheel to around 170bhp. This involved a new camshaft, a reconditioned metering unit but when first fitted it just didn?t run as I?d hoped. Once I?d taken it to the specialist guy who reconditioned the metering unit (and in those days there were only three companies in the UK) also fitted a Bosch fuel pump (essential) we spent all day with it on the rolling road and at the end of things when I was about $500 worse off, the car went like a rocket. More importantly in the next few years it NEVER went off tune! I forgot the number of times I frightened myself while driving it but it sure was money well spent! So, the bottom line here is if anyone desires a Lucas injected car they?ll have a ball of fun PROVIDING the final fine tuning is done by someone who fully knows the system and has the skill to get the best out of it. However, if a US enthusiast just wants TR5 or TR6PI performance, what I said in my last message is to fit carbs, shaved head, new cam and new dizzy ? and leave it at that. Good luck Jonmac From: Andrew Uprichard Sent: 31 August 2019 17:44 To: 'John Macartney' Subject: RE: [6pack] Lucas PI Hey, Jonmac ? thank you for your email. The story is never simple??. My cousin Darryl Uprichard* owns Racetorations in Gainsborough and is currently building me an EFI engine (dyno?d around 240bhp) for my TR250. Should be here by the end of the year. So I will have a fast-road 250 to go with my Racetorations fast-road small-mouth 3 (and my stock TR2, TR3B and TR4). I know, it?s getting crazy??.. Given I am not a TR6 fan (actually, my wife hates the look of them ? and she is incredibly supportive), the only thing I could ever want for is a TR5. It will not be anything like as fast as the Racetorations TR250, but what a great car to own. But I know nothing about the Lucas system ? so here we are again. I think Darryl may be sending a mechanic over to the US next year for a customer out West: if that works out, maybe he could swing by here, help finish the 250 and maybe even help with the TR5 (if I get it). Too much information? Sorry !! Andrew *our fathers were 2 of 5 brothers, all of whom went to war. Half returned to N. Ireland after the war, but the others stayed in England, so I have lots of English cousins, many of whom I have never met. The only reason I met Darryl was because I bought a TR3 and was then told ?you have a cousin in England who knows a thing or so about those cars? !! From: John Macartney [mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk] Sent: Saturday, August 31, 2019 11:52 AM To: Andrew Uprichard Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Lucas PI If all you want is an injected TR performance, I?d do this. Buy a us spec car. TR5 camshaft, still available in U.K. and a bit better too than the original. Shave the head to at least 9.5:1, fit flat top pistons, a Lucas D25 or 26 dizzy, the equivalent of the SAH 6-3-1 extractor exhaust manifold, two 1.75 SU carbs and bingo, you?re there. Ideally, if the donor car is a late model 6, email Chris Witor in the U.K. for a 215019 head. These didn?t go to the US but we?re the best heads of the lot. Chris will confirm this and he?s a Triumph performance specialist. Goes without saying you?ll need anoverdrive. J type is ok but A type better imho. You?ll then have a car that is the injected versions performance equal in every way. These things are what we do in the U.K. to all 250s and carbed 6s that find their way back here. Good luck Jonmac Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL On 30 Aug 2019, at 15:43, Andrew Uprichard > wrote: Thanks, Jonmac: I don?t have the car yet ? and in fact am still going back-and-forth about whether to buy it. I?ll keep you posted ! Andrew From: John Macartney [mailto:John.Macartney at Ukpips.org.uk] Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2019 6:50 PM To: Andrew Uprichard Cc: Triumphs; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Lucas PI Can I help? Did the Lucas Service course, thefactory service course and owned a saloon with the pi engine to full U.K. police performance spec. Doubt you?ll find too many in the US with experience of the system. PI cars were never sold in North America in the day, though a very small number have snuck in since then. A word of advice. If you?re tempted to fiddle with the PI system, put everything you?ve learned about carbed cars entirely to one side. The Lucas system is a whole different ball game with very unique rules. That said, it?s a great setup but you need to know what you?re doing before you start:) Jonmac Whenever I feel the need for exercise, experience has shown me it is better to lie down until the feeling goes away. WINSTON CHURCHILL On 29 Aug 2019, at 22:20, Andrew Uprichard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: Who is the go-to guy in the US for questions on the Lucas PI system? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alanatkinson at hotmail.com Tue Sep 3 06:54:39 2019 From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson) Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 12:54:39 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Lucas PI In-Reply-To: References: <00ca01d55eaf$a6643350$f32c99f0$@uprichard.net> Message-ID: Used to be Kinsler - google kinsler.com No clue if they are still the only game in town though. On Aug 29, 2019, at 5:30 PM, Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: Wow. Tough question. No clue. Good luck. On Thu, Aug 29, 2019, 4:21 PM Andrew Uprichard via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: Who is the go-to guy in the US for questions on the Lucas PI system? Andrew Uprichard Jackson, Michigan _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alanatkinson at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Tue Sep 3 16:09:46 2019 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Yahoo) Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 22:09:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Pi Saloon upgrading Question References: <1674082010.1239185.1567548586201.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1674082010.1239185.1567548586201@mail.yahoo.com> Hello Jonmac.? I dont know much about the saloons, but presume they shared parts with the TRs.? ?What did the factory do for brake and drivetrain upgrades when they built 170 hp police spec sal?ons?? ?Cheers.? Bruce Simms 73 tr6 with hs6 and rest of your list of? upgrades Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Wed Sep 4 05:31:43 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 4 Sep 2019 11:31:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Pi Saloon upgrading Question In-Reply-To: <1674082010.1239185.1567548586201@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1674082010.1239185.1567548586201.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1674082010.1239185.1567548586201@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1591701154.1388453.1567596703606@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - Unless you run your Triumph REALLY HARD, the stock brakes are more than adequate for street duty. Regarding drive train, all these cars were parts shelf engineered, so they probably ran the same gearbox and differential that came in the TR6 from the factory (I verified the case and gears for the saloon are the same as TR6, but some external stuff is slightly different). Any issues that the initial design didn't address properly can be easily fixed. For example, in braking (the TR6), the factory rear wheel cylinders can be swapped for bigger (.750 is stock, .812 or .875 are swap-in upgrades) and you will get better balance front to rear and better stopping power. As with anything, there's a trade off for the upgrade, but it's an easy upgrade and if you know how to drive, a good upgrade. If you don't know how to drive, you'll learn about spinning out your TR6. ;-) But the point is, the initial parts on these ares are pretty adequate. A lot of the perception about reliability of these cars is based on the false premise of inadequate parts. On the contrary, there are many aspects that are over-engineered. The reliability issues are more likely due to improper maintenance than anything. I see this all the time. My opinion is based on 50 years of TR6 ownership and my cars see pretty hard use at times. So, maybe there are magic part numbers out there for the copper cars, but chances are that they just used the next heftier parts on the shelf to create more over-over-engineered cars. Regards,Bob Lang On Tuesday, September 3, 2019, 6:10:00 PM EDT, Yahoo via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: Hello Jonmac.? I dont know much about the saloons, but presume they shared parts with the TRs.? ?What did the factory do for brake and drivetrain upgrades when they built 170 hp police spec sal?ons?? ?Cheers.? Bruce Simms 73 tr6 with hs6 and rest of your list of? upgrades Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrochlin at comcast.net Fri Sep 6 15:28:35 2019 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin) Date: Fri, 6 Sep 2019 17:28:35 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Head Removal-Block and Head Offer Message-ID: <66981484-81FE-45D4-BC63-29FCAD5231EE@comcast.net> I rebuilt my ?72 TR6 about 5 years ago. I did about What Jomac recommends. I increased the compression to about 9.25, installed a Goodparts GP 2 cam and put in .20 over pistons. With great help form Bob Lang, Jay Welch and a little advice from Richard Good I got an excellent result. The engine runs strong, idles well and runs at a consistent normal temperature. I did add a carburetor heat shield to get an consistent idle on hot days or when coming off the highway to slow traffic. I?m running the stock ZS carbs. Jay gave me a block including the head. I believe that both are usable and the internals were in good condition.. I did use the crank shaft in the rebuild. What did puzzle me, try as I might I could not break loose the head from the block. I tried wedging in a stiff wide blade paint scraper which I was able to work between the head and the block, but since I didn?t need the block or head I gave up as I didn?t want to damage either one by gouging them. I can only guess that the last person to do the head used some kind of gasket sealer that has become dried and very adhesive. If any one on the list wishes to have the block/head please let me know, of course no charge, but you must pick up. The machine shop I used assured me that they could remove the head. Best, Bob ?72 TR6 From richardolindsay at gmail.com Sat Sep 7 20:09:52 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sat, 7 Sep 2019 21:09:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Update, and OT report Message-ID: Hello Friends, A little over a week ago the battery in my LBC exploded, showering me with acid and leaving me deafened. Cutting to the chase: I received no acid burns, thanks to stripping down and dousing myself with water, followed by a proper shower a few minutes later. Partial hearing returned after 10-15 minutes but is still limited and accompanied by a buzzing ring in one ear. I am under a doctor's care and will know more as my ears heal. The car has been cleaned, decontaminated, and repainted where necessary. A new battery is now installed but not yet connected. I want to clean the connectors again before they go on. My '85 Maserati Biturbo is at the independent mechanic where the turbos are being cleaned, oil hoses replaced, and a new fuel pump and filter will go in. Today the E-Type got new connectors on all the V12's harness wires. And tomorrow, the car will get new thermostats and coolant. Testing revealed that coolant exiting the engine's left bank was 180?F while that exiting the right bank was 160?F. The implication is that sometime along the car's history, one of the thermostats was replaced with a wrong value unit. New 160? hot climate thermostats go in tomorrow, both banks, followed by refilling with 50:50 antifreeze concentrate, and distilled water. Yea, more information than anyone needs...and mostly off topic. Rick, in Houston -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com Sun Sep 8 06:14:35 2019 From: larrygriffin.nc at gmail.com (Larry Griffin) Date: Sun, 8 Sep 2019 08:14:35 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Update, and OT report In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Wow, that is so scary Rick! Glad you didn't get any acid burns due to your quick actions. Hopefully your hearing will continue to improve. Take care, Larry 71 TR6, Raleigh On Sat, Sep 7, 2019 at 10:10 PM Richard Lindsay via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > Hello Friends, > A little over a week ago the battery in my LBC exploded, showering me > with acid and leaving me deafened. Cutting to the chase: I received no > acid burns, thanks to stripping down and dousing myself with water, > followed by a proper shower a few minutes later. > Partial hearing returned after 10-15 minutes but is still limited and > accompanied by a buzzing ring in one ear. I am under a doctor's care and > will know more as my ears heal. > The car has been cleaned, decontaminated, and repainted where > necessary. A new battery is now installed but not yet connected. I want to > clean the connectors again before they go on. > My '85 Maserati Biturbo is at the independent mechanic where the turbos > are being cleaned, oil hoses replaced, and a new fuel pump and filter will > go in. > Today the E-Type got new connectors on all the V12's harness wires. And > tomorrow, the car will get new thermostats and coolant. > Testing revealed that coolant exiting the engine's left bank was 180?F > while that exiting the right bank was 160?F. The implication is that > sometime along the car's history, one of the thermostats was replaced with > a wrong value unit. New 160? hot climate thermostats go in tomorrow, both > banks, followed by refilling with 50:50 antifreeze concentrate, and > distilled water. > Yea, more information than anyone needs...and mostly off topic. > > Rick, in Houston > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From janah at att.net Mon Sep 9 07:18:03 2019 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2019 13:18:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Battery Message-ID: <189659305.4694484.1568035083034@mail.yahoo.com> Thank the Lord you are alright! I hope you feel better soon. John Cyg 70 Damson CC52927LO From john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk Tue Sep 3 06:06:28 2019 From: john.macartney at ukpips.org.uk (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 13:06:28 +0100 Subject: [6pack] Lucas PI In-Reply-To: <1516941180.706764.1567274981649@mail.yahoo.com> References: <00ca01d55eaf$a6643350$f32c99f0$@uprichard.net> <1C5BD9B2-40D9-4E47-B09C-26949D2519DC@Ukpips.org.uk> <1516941180.706764.1567274981649@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001c01d56250$049ab090$0dd011b0$@ukpips.org.uk> Hi, Raymond Great to hear from you again but the generous accolade is I feel perhaps a little misplaced? I somehow dropped off the 6Pack email list some years back and periodically received the odd message and it seems some who I remember from the older(?) triumphs at autox had migrated, so thought I?d better tag along too. I?m now entirely Triumph-less as I live in the middle of a very old English town in a house that was built long before the days of the car. No garage or chance of obtaining one in which to keep a classic car and I?ve now reached a stage in life where getting my hands filthy and crawling around under an old car for pleasure has very limited appeal. Good food, good wine and the company of interesting ladies of a similar age has far more appeal and come 9.00pm, it?s getting near my bedtime? Keep the posts coming. I read them all. Cheers, Jonmac From: Raymond Hatfield Sent: 31 August 2019 19:10 To: John Macartney ; John Macartney via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>; Andrew Uprichard Cc: Triumphs ; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Lucas PI Hello Jonmac, It's been a long time since I last saw you on here, glad to see you're still doing well. I think this list could ask for no finer resource on all things Triumph than you. Take care, Raymond.L Hatfield Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android On Thu, Aug 29, 2019 at 5:49 PM, John Macartney via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/iron_horse819 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Tue Sep 10 07:03:51 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 08:03:51 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Too quiet... Message-ID: Good day Friends, Its too quiet here so I will share a little OT noise. My Jaguar E-Type's V12 now has a freshly installed 160?F, hot climate thermostat...on the right cylinder bank. Today I will replace the thermostat on the left bank. Here's the back-story. While servicing the car a few days ago I measured the thermostat housings with an IR thermometer. The left bank measured about 180?F while the right bank measured 160?F. The difference could be attributed to a number of things but Occam's Razor says that the more likely reason is different value thermostats installed. Upon servicing the right bank, I discovered a thermostat marked ' 74 '. That's 165?F, just (about) what the IR thermometer read. A new 160? thermostat is now installed. http://aubard.us/73_Jaguar/20190909_180528.jpg I fully expect to find an old 180? thermostat installed in the left bank. Of course there is another possibility. The installed thermostat could be damaged and opening only partially. If so, the temperature on that bank would read higher, but 180?? Precisely the temperature of a mild climate thermostat? I don't like coincidences and doubt this one too. However, today will tell when I remove the old thermostat. Actually, that last statement is only partially true. If a 180? thermostat is removed, all will be as expected. If however, a 160? thermostat is removed, the exact mechanism for 20? hotter coolant exiting the this bank will remain a mystery. But before any of that fun work can begin there are a couple of items in the queue ahead of it. I plan to exercise all of the other cars while its a bit cooler outside then stop by the shop to see if the mechanic has made progress on the Maserati. And the TR6 sits quietly awaiting its turn at the paint shop. Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 10 07:53:59 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 13:53:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Too quiet. References: <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913@mail.yahoo.com> I agree with Richard, it is too quiet here. I somehow fell off the list many years ago but I am back (sorry).? The TR6 was off the road for several years after a pending major frame failure was discovered.? As much as I would LOVE to get a RATCO frame I don't LOVE it? 6G's worth.? A local club member who happens to be a fitter/welder by trade offered to rework my frame so I disassembled the car and took the frame to him and after 7 months or so he rebuilt the main frame rails from about the mid point right to the rear of the car.? He also reinforced notorious week points such as the diff mounts and the attach points for the (aftermarket) rear sway bar.? He also handed me a 3-lb bag of rust scale he extracted from inside the frame. I spend an afternoon with prods and compressed air and removed some more rust, then I treated the inside of the frame with Eastwood's frame rustproofing kit (I think I used two of them), painted the frame with POR15 (Note: POR15 does a very poor job of sticking to old paint) and reassembled the car. I set up a camera on a (cheap) tripod and took a picture.? I installed the LF suspension and took a pic.? I installed the RF suspension and took a pic, front sway bar and took a pic, steering rack and took a pic... (you get the picture) so I now have a nice sequence of pictures of the car coming together. The car has been on the road for a year now and so far I have 1) blown the diff and 2) blew a head gasket.? I drove this car for nearly 2 decades with nary a problem but I guess my luck had run out.? Keep in mind that this car has been to both coasts, Canada and up Pike's Peak so it is no slouch. Dave -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Tue Sep 10 08:24:31 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 09:24:31 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Too quiet. In-Reply-To: <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Awesome report, Dave! Thanks! Today I planned to connect the new battery in my TR6 project. But when I got to the shop (20 minute drive) I realized that I had left all the freshly cleaned, decontaminated, and refinished parts on the home garage workbench. So alas, another day delay but the other cars did get their exercise. Headed back home now to replace that other thermostat... Rick On Tue, Sep 10, 2019, 8:54 AM DAVID MASSEY via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > I agree with Richard, it is too quiet here. > > I somehow fell off the list many years ago but I am back (sorry). The TR6 > was off the road for several years after a pending major frame failure was > discovered. As much as I would LOVE to get a RATCO frame I don't LOVE it > 6G's worth. A local club member who happens to be a fitter/welder by trade > offered to rework my frame so I disassembled the car and took the frame to > him and after 7 months or so he rebuilt the main frame rails from about the > mid point right to the rear of the car. He also reinforced notorious week > points such as the diff mounts and the attach points for the (aftermarket) > rear sway bar. He also handed me a 3-lb bag of rust scale he extracted > from inside the frame. > > I spend an afternoon with prods and compressed air and removed some more > rust, then I treated the inside of the frame with Eastwood's frame > rustproofing kit (I think I used two of them), painted the frame with POR15 > (Note: POR15 does a very poor job of sticking to old paint) and reassembled > the car. > > I set up a camera on a (cheap) tripod and took a picture. I installed the > LF suspension and took a pic. I installed the RF suspension and took a > pic, front sway bar and took a pic, steering rack and took a pic... (you > get the picture) so I now have a nice sequence of pictures of the car > coming together. > > The car has been on the road for a year now and so far I have 1) blown the > diff and 2) blew a head gasket. I drove this car for nearly 2 decades with > nary a problem but I guess my luck had run out. Keep in mind that this car > has been to both coasts, Canada and up Pike's Peak so it is no slouch. > > Dave > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Tue Sep 10 09:05:55 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 15:05:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] TR Feature Race from Watkins Glen References: <2137227079.3406971.1568127955578.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2137227079.3406971.1568127955578@mail.yahoo.com> Hi, Check out this video of Henry Frye and I dicing at Watkins Glen: WGVGP Triumph Race | | | | | | | | | | | WGVGP Triumph Race 2019 Watkins Glen Grand Prix all-Triumph feature race | | | Turn up the volume!! Regards,Bob Lang -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 10 11:04:38 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 17:04:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Too quiet. In-Reply-To: References: <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1003419129.3437836.1568135078851@mail.yahoo.com> I hear you.? I have another project (TR8) in a garage about 12 miles from home and I forget how many times I arrived there with 3/4 of the parts/tools I needed.? This project has been stalled so long I forget where I put some of the parts.? I lost one thinking that if I get a replacement the original will show up (as per usual)but so far no? show. Cheers Dave -----Original Message----- From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2019 9:25 am Subject: Re: [6pack] Too quiet. Awesome report, Dave! Thanks! Today I planned to connect the new battery in my TR6 project. But when I got to the shop (20 minute drive) I realized that I had left all the freshly cleaned, decontaminated, and refinished parts on the home garage workbench. So alas, another day delay but the other cars did get their exercise. Headed back home now to replace that other thermostat... Rick On Tue, Sep 10, 2019, 8:54 AM DAVID MASSEY via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: I agree with Richard, it is too quiet here. I somehow fell off the list many years ago but I am back (sorry).? The TR6 was off the road for several years after a pending major frame failure was discovered.? As much as I would LOVE to get a RATCO frame I don't LOVE it? 6G's worth.? A local club member who happens to be a fitter/welder by trade offered to rework my frame so I disassembled the car and took the frame to him and after 7 months or so he rebuilt the main frame rails from about the mid point right to the rear of the car.? He also reinforced notorious week points such as the diff mounts and the attach points for the (aftermarket) rear sway bar.? He also handed me a 3-lb bag of rust scale he extracted from inside the frame. I spend an afternoon with prods and compressed air and removed some more rust, then I treated the inside of the frame with Eastwood's frame rustproofing kit (I think I used two of them), painted the frame with POR15 (Note: POR15 does a very poor job of sticking to old paint) and reassembled the car. I set up a camera on a (cheap) tripod and took a picture.? I installed the LF suspension and took a pic.? I installed the RF suspension and took a pic, front sway bar and took a pic, steering rack and took a pic... (you get the picture) so I now have a nice sequence of pictures of the car coming together. The car has been on the road for a year now and so far I have 1) blown the diff and 2) blew a head gasket.? I drove this car for nearly 2 decades with nary a problem but I guess my luck had run out.? Keep in mind that this car has been to both coasts, Canada and up Pike's Peak so it is no slouch. Dave? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Tue Sep 10 12:26:02 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 13:26:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Too quiet. In-Reply-To: <1003419129.3437836.1568135078851@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913@mail.yahoo.com> <1003419129.3437836.1568135078851@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Yes sir! So many times I have bought the same part twice! On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 12:04 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > > I hear you. I have another project (TR8) in a garage about 12 miles from home and I forget how many times I arrived there with 3/4 of the parts/tools I needed. This project has been stalled so long I forget where I put some of the parts. I lost one thinking that if I get a replacement the original will show up (as per usual)but so far no show. > > Cheers > > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2019 9:25 am > Subject: Re: [6pack] Too quiet. > > Awesome report, Dave! Thanks! Today I planned to connect the new battery in my TR6 project. But when I got to the shop (20 minute drive) I realized that I had left all the freshly cleaned, decontaminated, and refinished parts on the home garage workbench. So alas, another day delay but the other cars did get their exercise. Headed back home now to replace that other thermostat... > > Rick > > On Tue, Sep 10, 2019, 8:54 AM DAVID MASSEY via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > I agree with Richard, it is too quiet here. > > I somehow fell off the list many years ago but I am back (sorry). The TR6 was off the road for several years after a pending major frame failure was discovered. As much as I would LOVE to get a RATCO frame I don't LOVE it 6G's worth. A local club member who happens to be a fitter/welder by trade offered to rework my frame so I disassembled the car and took the frame to him and after 7 months or so he rebuilt the main frame rails from about the mid point right to the rear of the car. He also reinforced notorious week points such as the diff mounts and the attach points for the (aftermarket) rear sway bar. He also handed me a 3-lb bag of rust scale he extracted from inside the frame. > > I spend an afternoon with prods and compressed air and removed some more rust, then I treated the inside of the frame with Eastwood's frame rustproofing kit (I think I used two of them), painted the frame with POR15 (Note: POR15 does a very poor job of sticking to old paint) and reassembled the car. > > I set up a camera on a (cheap) tripod and took a picture. I installed the LF suspension and took a pic. I installed the RF suspension and took a pic, front sway bar and took a pic, steering rack and took a pic... (you get the picture) so I now have a nice sequence of pictures of the car coming together. > > The car has been on the road for a year now and so far I have 1) blown the diff and 2) blew a head gasket. I drove this car for nearly 2 decades with nary a problem but I guess my luck had run out. Keep in mind that this car has been to both coasts, Canada and up Pike's Peak so it is no slouch. > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com > From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 10 16:50:27 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 22:50:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Too quiet. In-Reply-To: References: <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913@mail.yahoo.com> <1003419129.3437836.1568135078851@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1451520649.3585872.1568155827816@mail.yahoo.com> Or done the same job twice.? As I get older I am starting to expect to do a job twice.? First to learn how to do it and the second to do it right. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Richard Lindsay To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2019 1:26 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Too quiet. Yes sir! So many times I have bought the same part twice! On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 12:04 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > > I hear you.? I have another project (TR8) in a garage about 12 miles from home and I forget how many times I arrived there with 3/4 of the parts/tools I needed.? This project has been stalled so long I forget where I put some of the parts.? I lost one thinking that if I get a replacement the original will show up (as per usual)but so far no? show. > > Cheers > > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2019 9:25 am > Subject: Re: [6pack] Too quiet. > > Awesome report, Dave! Thanks! Today I planned to connect the new battery in my TR6 project. But when I got to the shop (20 minute drive) I realized that I had left all the freshly cleaned, decontaminated, and refinished parts on the home garage workbench. So alas, another day delay but the other cars did get their exercise. Headed back home now to replace that other thermostat... > > Rick > > On Tue, Sep 10, 2019, 8:54 AM DAVID MASSEY via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > I agree with Richard, it is too quiet here. > > I somehow fell off the list many years ago but I am back (sorry).? The TR6 was off the road for several years after a pending major frame failure was discovered.? As much as I would LOVE to get a RATCO frame I don't LOVE it? 6G's worth.? A local club member who happens to be a fitter/welder by trade offered to rework my frame so I disassembled the car and took the frame to him and after 7 months or so he rebuilt the main frame rails from about the mid point right to the rear of the car.? He also reinforced notorious week points such as the diff mounts and the attach points for the (aftermarket) rear sway bar.? He also handed me a 3-lb bag of rust scale he extracted from inside the frame. > > I spend an afternoon with prods and compressed air and removed some more rust, then I treated the inside of the frame with Eastwood's frame rustproofing kit (I think I used two of them), painted the frame with POR15 (Note: POR15 does a very poor job of sticking to old paint) and reassembled the car. > > I set up a camera on a (cheap) tripod and took a picture.? I installed the LF suspension and took a pic.? I installed the RF suspension and took a pic, front sway bar and took a pic, steering rack and took a pic... (you get the picture) so I now have a nice sequence of pictures of the car coming together. > > The car has been on the road for a year now and so far I have 1) blown the diff and 2) blew a head gasket.? I drove this car for nearly 2 decades with nary a problem but I guess my luck had run out.? Keep in mind that this car has been to both coasts, Canada and up Pike's Peak so it is no slouch. > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Tue Sep 10 17:05:44 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 18:05:44 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Too quiet. In-Reply-To: <1451520649.3585872.1568155827816@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913@mail.yahoo.com> <1003419129.3437836.1568135078851@mail.yahoo.com> <1451520649.3585872.1568155827816@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: As I get older, I decide which jobs I want to do and which ones I wish to farm out. On Tue, Sep 10, 2019, 5:50 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > Or done the same job twice. As I get older I am starting to expect to do > a job twice. First to learn how to do it and the second to do it right. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Lindsay > To: DAVID MASSEY > Cc: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2019 1:26 pm > Subject: Re: [6pack] Too quiet. > > Yes sir! So many times I have bought the same part twice! > > On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 12:04 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > > > > I hear you. I have another project (TR8) in a garage about 12 miles > from home and I forget how many times I arrived there with 3/4 of the > parts/tools I needed. This project has been stalled so long I forget where > I put some of the parts. I lost one thinking that if I get a replacement > the original will show up (as per usual)but so far no show. > > > > Cheers > > > > > > Dave > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > > To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > > Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2019 9:25 am > > Subject: Re: [6pack] Too quiet. > > > > Awesome report, Dave! Thanks! Today I planned to connect the new battery > in my TR6 project. But when I got to the shop (20 minute drive) I realized > that I had left all the freshly cleaned, decontaminated, and refinished > parts on the home garage workbench. So alas, another day delay but the > other cars did get their exercise. Headed back home now to replace that > other thermostat... > > > > Rick > > > > On Tue, Sep 10, 2019, 8:54 AM DAVID MASSEY via 6pack < > 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > > I agree with Richard, it is too quiet here. > > > > I somehow fell off the list many years ago but I am back (sorry). The > TR6 was off the road for several years after a pending major frame failure > was discovered. As much as I would LOVE to get a RATCO frame I don't LOVE > it 6G's worth. A local club member who happens to be a fitter/welder by > trade offered to rework my frame so I disassembled the car and took the > frame to him and after 7 months or so he rebuilt the main frame rails from > about the mid point right to the rear of the car. He also reinforced > notorious week points such as the diff mounts and the attach points for the > (aftermarket) rear sway bar. He also handed me a 3-lb bag of rust scale he > extracted from inside the frame. > > > > I spend an afternoon with prods and compressed air and removed some more > rust, then I treated the inside of the frame with Eastwood's frame > rustproofing kit (I think I used two of them), painted the frame with POR15 > (Note: POR15 does a very poor job of sticking to old paint) and reassembled > the car. > > > > I set up a camera on a (cheap) tripod and took a picture. I installed > the LF suspension and took a pic. I installed the RF suspension and took a > pic, front sway bar and took a pic, steering rack and took a pic... (you > get the picture) so I now have a nice sequence of pictures of the car > coming together. > > > > The car has been on the road for a year now and so far I have 1) blown > the diff and 2) blew a head gasket. I drove this car for nearly 2 decades > with nary a problem but I guess my luck had run out. Keep in mind that > this car has been to both coasts, Canada and up Pike's Peak so it is no > slouch. > > > > Dave > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Tue Sep 10 17:15:05 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Tue, 10 Sep 2019 23:15:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Too quiet. In-Reply-To: References: <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1695358295.3359802.1568123639913@mail.yahoo.com> <1003419129.3437836.1568135078851@mail.yahoo.com> <1451520649.3585872.1568155827816@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <292301000.3586611.1568157305446@mail.yahoo.com> I learned early on what jobs I can do and what I can't.? I've yet to farm out those in my wheelhouse but help is always appreciated. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2019 6:06 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Too quiet. As I get older, I decide which jobs I want to do and which ones I wish to farm out. On Tue, Sep 10, 2019, 5:50 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: Or done the same job twice.? As I get older I am starting to expect to do a job twice.? First to learn how to do it and the second to do it right. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Richard Lindsay To: DAVID MASSEY Cc: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2019 1:26 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Too quiet. Yes sir! So many times I have bought the same part twice! On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 12:04 PM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > > I hear you.? I have another project (TR8) in a garage about 12 miles from home and I forget how many times I arrived there with 3/4 of the parts/tools I needed.? This project has been stalled so long I forget where I put some of the parts.? I lost one thinking that if I get a replacement the original will show up (as per usual)but so far no? show. > > Cheers > > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Tue, Sep 10, 2019 9:25 am > Subject: Re: [6pack] Too quiet. > > Awesome report, Dave! Thanks! Today I planned to connect the new battery in my TR6 project. But when I got to the shop (20 minute drive) I realized that I had left all the freshly cleaned, decontaminated, and refinished parts on the home garage workbench. So alas, another day delay but the other cars did get their exercise. Headed back home now to replace that other thermostat... > > Rick > > On Tue, Sep 10, 2019, 8:54 AM DAVID MASSEY via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > I agree with Richard, it is too quiet here. > > I somehow fell off the list many years ago but I am back (sorry).? The TR6 was off the road for several years after a pending major frame failure was discovered.? As much as I would LOVE to get a RATCO frame I don't LOVE it? 6G's worth.? A local club member who happens to be a fitter/welder by trade offered to rework my frame so I disassembled the car and took the frame to him and after 7 months or so he rebuilt the main frame rails from about the mid point right to the rear of the car.? He also reinforced notorious week points such as the diff mounts and the attach points for the (aftermarket) rear sway bar.? He also handed me a 3-lb bag of rust scale he extracted from inside the frame. > > I spend an afternoon with prods and compressed air and removed some more rust, then I treated the inside of the frame with Eastwood's frame rustproofing kit (I think I used two of them), painted the frame with POR15 (Note: POR15 does a very poor job of sticking to old paint) and reassembled the car. > > I set up a camera on a (cheap) tripod and took a picture.? I installed the LF suspension and took a pic.? I installed the RF suspension and took a pic, front sway bar and took a pic, steering rack and took a pic... (you get the picture) so I now have a nice sequence of pictures of the car coming together. > > The car has been on the road for a year now and so far I have 1) blown the diff and 2) blew a head gasket.? I drove this car for nearly 2 decades with nary a problem but I guess my luck had run out.? Keep in mind that this car has been to both coasts, Canada and up Pike's Peak so it is no slouch. > > Dave > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Sep 11 07:11:04 2019 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2019 09:11:04 -0400 Subject: [6pack] rain Message-ID: We got caught in a heavy down pour last night on the way home from a car hop. This is the 1st time the 72 6 has seen rain since its restoration a few years ago. The top on the 6 stays on after 1 Sept since it is the Fall car of choice. Thank goodness! I have to say once the windows were up it sealed pretty good. Similar to my 63 4. Wipers worked very good I must say. My wife commented that we were lucky we were not in the 3! I am hoping to get to the end of October before the cars go into hibernation. Bob From tr6roadster at bellsouth.net Wed Sep 11 15:57:25 2019 From: tr6roadster at bellsouth.net (tr6roadster) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2019 21:57:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Electrical problem References: <955802955.5900999.1568239045122.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <955802955.5900999.1568239045122@mail.yahoo.com> I've been having problems with my horn not working,? today I noticed that when I push the horn button, my lights blink.? It only does it with the ignition on the off position. Any one has had this happen to his car? thanks for any help A. Guzman1976 Java Green TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Wed Sep 11 16:57:20 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2019 17:57:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Electrical problem In-Reply-To: <955802955.5900999.1568239045122@mail.yahoo.com> References: <955802955.5900999.1568239045122.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <955802955.5900999.1568239045122@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: My guess is a broken ground wire. (Isn't it always?) Routine testing is needed. 1. Unplug the horn and try it. 2. Unplug the horn relay and try it. Please report back. Electrons must not defeat us!!! Rick, electrical engineer before studying physics On Wed, Sep 11, 2019, 4:57 PM tr6roadster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > I've been having problems with my horn not working, today I noticed that > when I push the horn button, my lights blink. It only does it with the > ignition on the off position. Any one has had this happen to his car? > > thanks for any help > > A. Guzman > 1976 Java Green TR6 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From im_sloane at hotmail.com Wed Sep 11 17:28:29 2019 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2019 23:28:29 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Electrical problem In-Reply-To: References: <955802955.5900999.1568239045122.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <955802955.5900999.1568239045122@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: I would ask, with a puzzled look on my face, "which lights?" ________________________________ From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2019 10:57 PM To: tr6roadster at bellsouth.net ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Electrical problem My guess is a broken ground wire. (Isn't it always?) Routine testing is needed. 1. Unplug the horn and try it. 2. Unplug the horn relay and try it. On Wed, Sep 11, 2019, 4:57 PM tr6roadster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: I've been having problems with my horn not working, today I noticed that when I push the horn button, my lights blink. It only does it with the ignition on the off position. Any one has had this happen to his car? thanks for any help A. Guzman 1976 Java Green TR6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Wed Sep 11 18:11:01 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2019 19:11:01 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Electrical problem In-Reply-To: References: <955802955.5900999.1568239045122.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <955802955.5900999.1568239045122@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Okay Sloane, you win!!! Excellent smile on my face. On Wed, Sep 11, 2019, 6:28 PM im sloane via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > I would ask, with a puzzled look on my face, "which lights?" > ------------------------------ > *From:* 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Richard Lindsay > via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > *Sent:* Wednesday, September 11, 2019 10:57 PM > *To:* tr6roadster at bellsouth.net ; 6pack < > 6pack at autox.team.net> > *Subject:* Re: [6pack] Electrical problem > > My guess is a broken ground wire. (Isn't it always?) > > Routine testing is needed. > 1. Unplug the horn and try it. > 2. Unplug the horn relay and try it. > > > > On Wed, Sep 11, 2019, 4:57 PM tr6roadster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > wrote: > > I've been having problems with my horn not working, today I noticed that > when I push the horn button, my lights blink. It only does it with the > ignition on the off position. Any one has had this happen to his car? > > thanks for any help > > A. Guzman > 1976 Java Green TR6 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Wed Sep 11 18:35:20 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Wed, 11 Sep 2019 19:35:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Update Message-ID: Hello Friends, With all the chatter about getting my Maserati back on the road, I forgot to report that I connected the new battery in my TR6...and the car started perfectly! Once I get the brakes bled and the wheels back on, all cars in the scuderia will be running and driving. And the TR6 can go for paint! Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6roadster at bellsouth.net Thu Sep 12 07:13:51 2019 From: tr6roadster at bellsouth.net (tr6roadster) Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2019 13:13:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Electrical problems References: <1647413538.224222.1568294031697.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1647413538.224222.1568294031697@mail.yahoo.com> Sorry I was not too specific on describing my problem.? It is the headlights that blink when I press the horn button.? I've had the car for 18 years,? daily driver, never had an electrical issue until now,? other than a badstarter and alternator.?? A. Guzman'76 TR6-Java Green? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Thu Sep 12 07:18:08 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Thu, 12 Sep 2019 08:18:08 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Electrical problems In-Reply-To: <1647413538.224222.1568294031697@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1647413538.224222.1568294031697.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1647413538.224222.1568294031697@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Q: Do the headlight 'blink' off, or do they just dim when the horn push is pressed? On Thu, Sep 12, 2019, 8:14 AM tr6roadster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > Sorry I was not too specific on describing my problem. It is the > headlights that blink when I press the horn button. I've had the car for > 18 years, daily driver, never had an electrical issue until now, other > than a bad > starter and alternator. > > A. Guzman > '76 TR6-Java Green > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From im_sloane at hotmail.com Thu Sep 12 20:27:36 2019 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 02:27:36 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Electrical problems In-Reply-To: <1647413538.224222.1568294031697@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1647413538.224222.1568294031697.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <1647413538.224222.1568294031697@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: First, do you have the nice color schematics, found here. http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf I'm no electrician, but have had pretty good luck. Looking at the purple circuit on a 76, it does seem there's a connection with the horn and the flash-to-pass switch. Could it be your horn relay is going bad, and sending negative back up thru the purple wire, and it's making its way over to the flash-to-pass/dimmer switch, causing your lights to blink? Do they blink 'on' or 'off', and does the horn also blow? Be aware that the headlight circuit is not fused or even protected by a circuit breaker, so you could be treading in dangerous waters. You'll see the brown wires are a direct connection between the battery and the headlight switch, and also provide the 12v power to the purple circuit which is the 'always' on fuse (horn, glove box, hazard flashers). So this is all definitely related. Sloane ________________________________ From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of tr6roadster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2019 1:13 PM Sorry I was not too specific on describing my problem. It is the headlights that blink when I press the horn button. I've had the car for 18 years, daily driver, never had an electrical issue until now, other than a bad starter and alternator. A. Guzman '76 TR6-Java Green -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Fri Sep 13 04:36:40 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 05:36:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Electrical problems In-Reply-To: References: <1647413538.224222.1568294031697.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1647413538.224222.1568294031697@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks! I have seen those schematics but didn't have a copy. Sloane, I think you are right. The stalk switches and horn relay are likely culprits. The kinds of quieky electrical problems that Mr. Guzman is addressing often stem from broken grounds but a short in the stalk switches may eventually be found. (Assumption that 'A.' is male, thus the prefix 'Mr.'. Although today, assuming a gender is PC suicide.) Anyway... Good words of caution about un-fused circuits. I once saw an interesting gadget. It was a fuse holder, with a 20A fuse installed, and clip lead on one end and a battery terminal connector on the other. The idea is to remove the negative battery lead, attach the clip to the cable and place the other on the battery post. Any circuit except the starter could work but an accidental short circuit would pop the fuse rather than burning the harness - or worse. From the pictures that A. sent, it would be good maintenance to disconnect the battery and un-mount the relays for cleaning. As we know, the lower relay is the starter relay. It keeps starter solenoid current from the ignition switch and helps provide the seat belt starter interlock. A. also notes that the upper relay, the horn relay, shows a lot of corrosion and that he has a new one on order. Great opportunity to clean all the wires and Lucar connectors and verify that they still fit securely on to the 1/4" male tabs. If not, replace them. I use SimpleGreen for cleaning followed by brake cleaner as needed. A. also reports that although the horn relay 'clicks' at the press of the horn push, the horns do not sound. This again suggests a bad horn relay. Although why the headlights flash on is more likely to be a short in the column or associated stalk switches. Testing continues... Rick On Thu, Sep 12, 2019, 10:43 PM im sloane via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > First, do you have the nice color schematics, found here. > http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf > > I'm no electrician, but have had pretty good luck. Looking at the purple > circuit on a 76, it does seem there's a connection with the horn and the > flash-to-pass switch. Could it be your horn relay is going bad, and sending > negative back up thru the purple wire, and it's making its way over to the > flash-to-pass/dimmer switch, causing your lights to blink? Do they blink > 'on' or 'off', and does the horn also blow? > > Be aware that the headlight circuit is not fused or even protected by a > circuit breaker, so you could be treading in dangerous waters. You'll see > the brown wires are a direct connection between the battery and the > headlight switch, and also provide the 12v power to the purple circuit > which is the 'always' on fuse (horn, glove box, hazard flashers). So this > is all definitely related. > > Sloane > ------------------------------ > *From:* 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of tr6roadster via > 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > *Sent:* Thursday, September 12, 2019 1:13 PM > > Sorry I was not too specific on describing my problem. It is the > headlights that blink when I press the horn button. I've had the car for > 18 years, daily driver, never had an electrical issue until now, other > than a bad > starter and alternator. > > A. Guzman > '76 TR6-Java Green > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 13 05:59:52 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 11:59:52 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Electrical problems References: <906516148.4541438.1568375992543.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <906516148.4541438.1568375992543@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks for the reminder about this collection of schematics.? I've had these for many years and I have referred to them on many occasions.? Kudos to Dan Masters who put a lot of time in research and drawing these up. The Purple wire feeds the horns and the Flash-to-Pass function but the main power for the headlights comes directly from the power tap on the battery cable so unless you are driving around holding the Flash-to-Pass I am at a loss to explain a direct interconnection.? A dodgy connection in the fuse block could be the cause if it were otherwise.? Something to look for is a wire-to-wire short in the harnesses that lead down from the steering wheel. Did you or anyone else do some work under the dash and disconnect and reconnect wires? Dave -----Original Message----- From: im sloane via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thu, Sep 12, 2019 10:05 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Electrical problems #yiv4335451509 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}First, do you have the nice color schematics, found here.?http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf I'm no electrician, but have had pretty good luck. Looking at the purple circuit on a 76, it does seem there's a connection with the horn and the flash-to-pass switch. Could it be your horn relay is going bad, and sending negative back up thru the purple wire, and it's making its way over to the flash-to-pass/dimmer switch, causing your lights to blink? Do they blink 'on' or 'off', and does the horn also blow?? Be aware that the headlight circuit is not fused or even protected by a circuit breaker, so? you could be treading in dangerous waters. You'll see the brown wires are a direct connection between the battery and the headlight switch, and also provide the 12v power to the purple circuit which is the 'always' on fuse (horn, glove box, hazard flashers).? So this is all definitely related.? Sloane??From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of tr6roadster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2019 1:13 PM Sorry I was not too specific on describing my problem.? It is the headlights that blink when I press the horn button.? I've had the car for 18 years,? daily driver, never had an electrical issue until now,? other than a badstarter and alternator.?? A. Guzman'76 TR6-Java Green?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Fri Sep 13 08:57:12 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 09:57:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Electrical problems In-Reply-To: References: <1647413538.224222.1568294031697.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <1647413538.224222.1568294031697@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003601d56a43$86b99500$942cbf00$@ranteer.com> FYI - I have the diagrams printed out on 11x17 then laminated. Keep one in the garage and one in the car. For extra fun, you can also use them as placemats at the dining room table From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of im sloane via 6pack Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2019 9:28 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Electrical problems First, do you have the nice color schematics, found here. http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf I'm no electrician, but have had pretty good luck. Looking at the purple circuit on a 76, it does seem there's a connection with the horn and the flash-to-pass switch. Could it be your horn relay is going bad, and sending negative back up thru the purple wire, and it's making its way over to the flash-to-pass/dimmer switch, causing your lights to blink? Do they blink 'on' or 'off', and does the horn also blow? Be aware that the headlight circuit is not fused or even protected by a circuit breaker, so you could be treading in dangerous waters. You'll see the brown wires are a direct connection between the battery and the headlight switch, and also provide the 12v power to the purple circuit which is the 'always' on fuse (horn, glove box, hazard flashers). So this is all definitely related. Sloane _____ From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > on behalf of tr6roadster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2019 1:13 PM Sorry I was not too specific on describing my problem. It is the headlights that blink when I press the horn button. I've had the car for 18 years, daily driver, never had an electrical issue until now, other than a bad starter and alternator. A. Guzman '76 TR6-Java Green -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr6roadster at bellsouth.net Fri Sep 13 11:20:14 2019 From: tr6roadster at bellsouth.net (tr6roadster) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 17:20:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 14 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <789814738.950426.1568395214831@mail.yahoo.com> Yes I do have that schematic,? and like you, I believe that the relay is the problem.? I have one coming in soon,? maybe today,? I'll keep you posted.? Thanks to everyone that has an input into my problem. A. Guzman"76 Java Green TR6 On Friday, September 13, 2019, 08:01:27 AM EDT, <6pack-request at autox.team.net> wrote: Send 6pack mailing list submissions to ??? 6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? 6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? 6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. Re: Electrical problems (im sloane) ? 2. Re: Electrical problems (Richard Lindsay) ? 3. Re: Electrical problems (DAVID MASSEY) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 02:27:36 +0000 From: im sloane To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Electrical problems Message-ID: ??? ??? Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" First, do you have the nice color schematics, found here. http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf I'm no electrician, but have had pretty good luck. Looking at the purple circuit on a 76, it does seem there's a connection with the horn and the flash-to-pass switch. Could it be your horn relay is going bad, and sending negative back up thru the purple wire, and it's making its way over to the flash-to-pass/dimmer switch, causing your lights to blink? Do they blink 'on' or 'off', and does the horn also blow? Be aware that the headlight circuit is not fused or even protected by a circuit breaker, so? you could be treading in dangerous waters. You'll see the brown wires are a direct connection between the battery and the headlight switch, and also provide the 12v power to the purple circuit which is the 'always' on fuse (horn, glove box, hazard flashers).? So this is all definitely related. Sloane ________________________________ From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of tr6roadster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2019 1:13 PM Sorry I was not too specific on describing my problem.? It is the headlights that blink when I press the horn button.? I've had the car for 18 years,? daily driver, never had an electrical issue until now,? other than a bad starter and alternator. A. Guzman '76 TR6-Java Green -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 05:36:40 -0500 From: Richard Lindsay To: im sloane Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Electrical problems Message-ID: ??? Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" ? Thanks! I have seen those schematics but didn't have a copy. Sloane, I think you are right. The stalk switches and horn relay are likely culprits. The kinds of quieky electrical problems that Mr. Guzman is addressing often stem from broken grounds but a short in the stalk switches may eventually be found. (Assumption that 'A.' is male, thus the prefix 'Mr.'. Although today, assuming a gender is PC suicide.) Anyway... ? Good words of caution about un-fused circuits. I once saw an interesting gadget. It was a fuse holder, with a 20A fuse installed, and clip lead on one end and a battery terminal connector on the other. The idea is to remove the negative battery lead, attach the clip to the cable and place the other on the battery post. Any circuit except the starter could work but an accidental short circuit would pop the fuse rather than burning the harness - or worse. ? From the pictures that A. sent, it would be good maintenance to disconnect the battery and un-mount the relays for cleaning. As we know, the lower relay is the starter relay. It keeps starter solenoid current from the ignition switch and helps provide the seat belt starter interlock. A. also notes that the upper relay, the horn relay, shows a lot of corrosion and that he has a new one on order. Great opportunity to clean all the wires and Lucar connectors and verify that they still fit securely on to the 1/4" male tabs. If not, replace them. I use SimpleGreen for cleaning followed by brake cleaner as needed. ? A. also reports that although the horn relay 'clicks' at the press of the horn push, the horns do not sound. This again suggests a bad horn relay. Although why the headlights flash on is more likely to be a short in the column or associated stalk switches. Testing continues... Rick On Thu, Sep 12, 2019, 10:43 PM im sloane via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > First, do you have the nice color schematics, found here. > http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf > > I'm no electrician, but have had pretty good luck. Looking at the purple > circuit on a 76, it does seem there's a connection with the horn and the > flash-to-pass switch. Could it be your horn relay is going bad, and sending > negative back up thru the purple wire, and it's making its way over to the > flash-to-pass/dimmer switch, causing your lights to blink? Do they blink > 'on' or 'off', and does the horn also blow? > > Be aware that the headlight circuit is not fused or even protected by a > circuit breaker, so? you could be treading in dangerous waters. You'll see > the brown wires are a direct connection between the battery and the > headlight switch, and also provide the 12v power to the purple circuit > which is the 'always' on fuse (horn, glove box, hazard flashers).? So this > is all definitely related. > > Sloane > ------------------------------ > *From:* 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of tr6roadster via > 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > *Sent:* Thursday, September 12, 2019 1:13 PM > > Sorry I was not too specific on describing my problem.? It is the > headlights that blink when I press the horn button.? I've had the car for > 18 years,? daily driver, never had an electrical issue until now,? other > than a bad > starter and alternator. > > A. Guzman > '76 TR6-Java Green > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 11:59:52 +0000 (UTC) From: DAVID MASSEY To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Electrical problems Message-ID: <906516148.4541438.1568375992543 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Thanks for the reminder about this collection of schematics.? I've had these for many years and I have referred to them on many occasions.? Kudos to Dan Masters who put a lot of time in research and drawing these up. The Purple wire feeds the horns and the Flash-to-Pass function but the main power for the headlights comes directly from the power tap on the battery cable so unless you are driving around holding the Flash-to-Pass I am at a loss to explain a direct interconnection.? A dodgy connection in the fuse block could be the cause if it were otherwise.? Something to look for is a wire-to-wire short in the harnesses that lead down from the steering wheel. Did you or anyone else do some work under the dash and disconnect and reconnect wires? Dave -----Original Message----- From: im sloane via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thu, Sep 12, 2019 10:05 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Electrical problems #yiv4335451509 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}First, do you have the nice color schematics, found here.?http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf I'm no electrician, but have had pretty good luck. Looking at the purple circuit on a 76, it does seem there's a connection with the horn and the flash-to-pass switch. Could it be your horn relay is going bad, and sending negative back up thru the purple wire, and it's making its way over to the flash-to-pass/dimmer switch, causing your lights to blink? Do they blink 'on' or 'off', and does the horn also blow?? Be aware that the headlight circuit is not fused or even protected by a circuit breaker, so? you could be treading in dangerous waters. You'll see the brown wires are a direct connection between the battery and the headlight switch, and also provide the 12v power to the purple circuit which is the 'always' on fuse (horn, glove box, hazard flashers).? So this is all definitely related.? Sloane??From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of tr6roadster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2019 1:13 PM Sorry I was not too specific on describing my problem.? It is the headlights that blink when I press the horn button.? I've had the car for 18 years,? daily driver, never had an electrical issue until now,? other than a badstarter and alternator.?? A. Guzman'76 TR6-Java Green?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ 6pack mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack ------------------------------ End of 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 14 ************************************* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Fri Sep 13 11:35:50 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 12:35:50 -0500 Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 14 In-Reply-To: <789814738.950426.1568395214831@mail.yahoo.com> References: <789814738.950426.1568395214831@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Please take this opportunity to clean all the wires and connectors. SimpleGreen works great. Your effort will repay you. Rick On Fri, Sep 13, 2019, 12:20 PM tr6roadster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > Yes I do have that schematic, and like you, I believe that the relay is > the problem. I have one coming in soon, maybe today, I'll keep you > posted. Thanks to everyone that has an input into my problem. > > A. Guzman > "76 Java Green TR6 > > On Friday, September 13, 2019, 08:01:27 AM EDT, < > 6pack-request at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > Send 6pack mailing list submissions to > 6pack at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > 6pack-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > 6pack-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Electrical problems (im sloane) > 2. Re: Electrical problems (Richard Lindsay) > 3. Re: Electrical problems (DAVID MASSEY) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 02:27:36 +0000 > From: im sloane > To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] Electrical problems > Message-ID: > < > BN6PR18MB1140AFE2AB23BA5002B7A4DD8EB30 at BN6PR18MB1140.namprd18.prod.outlook.com > > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" > > First, do you have the nice color schematics, found here. > http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf > > I'm no electrician, but have had pretty good luck. Looking at the purple > circuit on a 76, it does seem there's a connection with the horn and the > flash-to-pass switch. Could it be your horn relay is going bad, and sending > negative back up thru the purple wire, and it's making its way over to the > flash-to-pass/dimmer switch, causing your lights to blink? Do they blink > 'on' or 'off', and does the horn also blow? > > Be aware that the headlight circuit is not fused or even protected by a > circuit breaker, so you could be treading in dangerous waters. You'll see > the brown wires are a direct connection between the battery and the > headlight switch, and also provide the 12v power to the purple circuit > which is the 'always' on fuse (horn, glove box, hazard flashers). So this > is all definitely related. > > Sloane > ________________________________ > From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of tr6roadster via > 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2019 1:13 PM > > Sorry I was not too specific on describing my problem. It is the > headlights that blink when I press the horn button. I've had the car for > 18 years, daily driver, never had an electrical issue until now, other > than a bad > starter and alternator. > > A. Guzman > '76 TR6-Java Green > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/6pack/attachments/20190913/134f4bcd/attachment-0001.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 05:36:40 -0500 > From: Richard Lindsay > To: im sloane > Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] Electrical problems > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Thanks! I have seen those schematics but didn't have a copy. Sloane, I > think you are right. The stalk switches and horn relay are likely culprits. > The kinds of quieky electrical problems that Mr. Guzman is addressing often > stem from broken grounds but a short in the stalk switches may eventually > be found. (Assumption that 'A.' is male, thus the prefix 'Mr.'. Although > today, assuming a gender is PC suicide.) Anyway... > Good words of caution about un-fused circuits. I once saw an interesting > gadget. It was a fuse holder, with a 20A fuse installed, and clip lead on > one end and a battery terminal connector on the other. The idea is to > remove the negative battery lead, attach the clip to the cable and place > the other on the battery post. Any circuit except the starter could work > but an accidental short circuit would pop the fuse rather than burning the > harness - or worse. > From the pictures that A. sent, it would be good maintenance to > disconnect the battery and un-mount the relays for cleaning. As we know, > the lower relay is the starter relay. It keeps starter solenoid current > from the ignition switch and helps provide the seat belt starter interlock. > A. also notes that the upper relay, the horn relay, shows a lot of > corrosion and that he has a new one on order. Great opportunity to clean > all the wires and Lucar connectors and verify that they still fit securely > on to the 1/4" male tabs. If not, replace them. I use SimpleGreen for > cleaning followed by brake cleaner as needed. > A. also reports that although the horn relay 'clicks' at the press of > the horn push, the horns do not sound. This again suggests a bad horn > relay. Although why the headlights flash on is more likely to be a short in > the column or associated stalk switches. Testing continues... > > Rick > > On Thu, Sep 12, 2019, 10:43 PM im sloane via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > wrote: > > > First, do you have the nice color schematics, found here. > > http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf > > > > I'm no electrician, but have had pretty good luck. Looking at the purple > > circuit on a 76, it does seem there's a connection with the horn and the > > flash-to-pass switch. Could it be your horn relay is going bad, and > sending > > negative back up thru the purple wire, and it's making its way over to > the > > flash-to-pass/dimmer switch, causing your lights to blink? Do they blink > > 'on' or 'off', and does the horn also blow? > > > > Be aware that the headlight circuit is not fused or even protected by a > > circuit breaker, so you could be treading in dangerous waters. You'll > see > > the brown wires are a direct connection between the battery and the > > headlight switch, and also provide the 12v power to the purple circuit > > which is the 'always' on fuse (horn, glove box, hazard flashers). So > this > > is all definitely related. > > > > Sloane > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of tr6roadster > via > > 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > > *Sent:* Thursday, September 12, 2019 1:13 PM > > > > Sorry I was not too specific on describing my problem. It is the > > headlights that blink when I press the horn button. I've had the car for > > 18 years, daily driver, never had an electrical issue until now, other > > than a bad > > starter and alternator. > > > > A. Guzman > > '76 TR6-Java Green > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/6pack/attachments/20190913/51739ede/attachment-0001.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 11:59:52 +0000 (UTC) > From: DAVID MASSEY > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] Electrical problems > Message-ID: <906516148.4541438.1568375992543 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Thanks for the reminder about this collection of schematics.? I've had > these for many years and I have referred to them on many occasions.? Kudos > to Dan Masters who put a lot of time in research and drawing these up. > The Purple wire feeds the horns and the Flash-to-Pass function but the > main power for the headlights comes directly from the power tap on the > battery cable so unless you are driving around holding the Flash-to-Pass I > am at a loss to explain a direct interconnection.? A dodgy connection in > the fuse block could be the cause if it were otherwise.? Something to look > for is a wire-to-wire short in the harnesses that lead down from the > steering wheel. > > Did you or anyone else do some work under the dash and disconnect and > reconnect wires? > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: im sloane via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Thu, Sep 12, 2019 10:05 pm > Subject: Re: [6pack] Electrical problems > > #yiv4335451509 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}First, do you have the > nice color schematics, found here.? > http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf > I'm no electrician, but have had pretty good luck. Looking at the purple > circuit on a 76, it does seem there's a connection with the horn and the > flash-to-pass switch. Could it be your horn relay is going bad, and sending > negative back up thru the purple wire, and it's making its way over to the > flash-to-pass/dimmer switch, causing your lights to blink? Do they blink > 'on' or 'off', and does the horn also blow?? > Be aware that the headlight circuit is not fused or even protected by a > circuit breaker, so? you could be treading in dangerous waters. You'll see > the brown wires are a direct connection between the battery and the > headlight switch, and also provide the 12v power to the purple circuit > which is the 'always' on fuse (horn, glove box, hazard flashers).? So this > is all definitely related.? > Sloane??From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of > tr6roadster via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2019 1:13 PM > > Sorry I was not too specific on describing my problem.? It is the > headlights that blink when I press the horn button.? I've had the car for > 18 years,? daily driver, never had an electrical issue until now,? other > than a badstarter and alternator.?? > A. Guzman'76 TR6-Java Green?_______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/6pack/attachments/20190913/bb8acccc/attachment.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > 6pack mailing list > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > ------------------------------ > > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 14 > ************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Fri Sep 13 12:29:18 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 13:29:18 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Carmine Red #82 Help please... Message-ID: Hello friends, I am having my TR6 painted at MAACO. And before anyone chastises me, I have used these guys for four other vehicles with excellent results. Its the people, not the brand name that makes the difference. Anyway, here's the problem. MAACO uses PPG's Shop Line brand of paint. Its good. What they don't have is a formula for 1975 Triumph #82 Carmine Red! What I do have is internet search results that don't cross-reference to anything at MAACO. Here's what I have: Triumph: 82 Carmine Red Alt. Code: 209 Alt. Code: CAA PPG Ditzler: 72065 Dupont Max: 43019 But I don't have the mix formula for PPG Shop Line. Please help. My car is ready to go for paint. Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Fri Sep 13 12:50:29 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 13:50:29 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Carmine Red #82 Help please... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Two more Carmine paint codes: Glasurit: TIB305 Sherwin Williams: 5891 On Fri, Sep 13, 2019, 1:29 PM Richard Lindsay wrote: > Hello friends, > I am having my TR6 painted at MAACO. And before anyone chastises me, I > have used these guys for four other vehicles with excellent results. Its > the people, not the brand name that makes the difference. Anyway, here's > the problem. > MAACO uses PPG's Shop Line brand of paint. Its good. What they don't > have is a formula for 1975 Triumph #82 Carmine Red! What I do have is > internet search results that don't cross-reference to anything at MAACO. > Here's what I have: > > Triumph: 82 Carmine Red > Alt. Code: 209 > Alt. Code: CAA > PPG Ditzler: 72065 > Dupont Max: 43019 > > But I don't have the mix formula for PPG Shop Line. > > Please help. My car is ready to go for paint. > > Rick > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Fri Sep 13 13:20:54 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 19:20:54 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Carmine Red #82 Help please... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1888969361.4711106.1568402454574@mail.yahoo.com> Have you considered providing them the paint.? You can get some mixed with the codes that you have and they won't have to deviate from their usual supply chain. BTW, the painters at MAACO do a fine job of laying down paint.? Where they don't do so well is the prep and masking but if you do all that you can take as much time and do as good a job as you wish and get a well done job. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Fri, Sep 13, 2019 1:29 pm Subject: [6pack] Carmine Red #82 Help please... Hello friends,? ?I am having my TR6 painted at MAACO. And before anyone chastises me, I have used these guys for four other vehicles with excellent results. Its the people, not the brand name that makes the difference. Anyway, here's the problem.? ?MAACO uses PPG's Shop Line brand of paint. Its good. What they don't have is a formula for 1975 Triumph #82 Carmine Red! What I do have is internet search results that don't cross-reference to anything at MAACO. Here's what I have: Triumph: 82 Carmine RedAlt. Code: 209Alt. Code: CAAPPG Ditzler: 72065Dupont Max: 43019 ? ?But I don't have the mix formula for PPG Shop Line. Please help. My car is ready to go for paint. Rick_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alansalvy at gmail.com Fri Sep 13 17:46:10 2019 From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore) Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2019 19:46:10 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Carmine Red #82 Help please... In-Reply-To: <1888969361.4711106.1568402454574@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1888969361.4711106.1568402454574@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Providing your own paint is a good suggestion, also removing all trim yourself, as it isn't done by Maaco. This includes: head and tail lamps, door locks, grill, wiper bushings. Removing the windscreen and replacing rubber seal for professional job. Nothing looks worse than opening the door and seeing the latches painted over.. Al On Fri, Sep 13, 2019 at 3:21 PM DAVID MASSEY via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > Have you considered providing them the paint. You can get some mixed with > the codes that you have and they won't have to deviate from their usual > supply chain. > > BTW, the painters at MAACO do a fine job of laying down paint. Where they > don't do so well is the prep and masking but if you do all that you can > take as much time and do as good a job as you wish and get a well done job. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > To: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Fri, Sep 13, 2019 1:29 pm > Subject: [6pack] Carmine Red #82 Help please... > > Hello friends, > I am having my TR6 painted at MAACO. And before anyone chastises me, I > have used these guys for four other vehicles with excellent results. Its > the people, not the brand name that makes the difference. Anyway, here's > the problem. > MAACO uses PPG's Shop Line brand of paint. Its good. What they don't > have is a formula for 1975 Triumph #82 Carmine Red! What I do have is > internet search results that don't cross-reference to anything at MAACO. > Here's what I have: > > Triumph: 82 Carmine Red > Alt. Code: 209 > Alt. Code: CAA > PPG Ditzler: 72065 > Dupont Max: 43019 > > But I don't have the mix formula for PPG Shop Line. > > Please help. My car is ready to go for paint. > > Rick > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Sat Sep 14 04:16:40 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2019 05:16:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Carmine Red #82 Help please... In-Reply-To: References: <1888969361.4711106.1568402454574@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > Nothing looks worse than opening the door and seeing the latches > painted over.. > > Al So true. And nothing says 'amateur' more than reusing or paint on old rubber gaskets! My car is stripped bare. No windscreen, no door 'innards', no dash or interior. Only things still there are an old GT6 steering wheel and shifter knob, an old driver's seat mounted on restored seat rails, and bungee cords to keep the doors closed. I am already excited to begin the reassembly. Seeing it come back together is such a treat! Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Sat Sep 14 05:34:59 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2019 06:34:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Paint Message-ID: Hello friends, I visited the painter yesterday, as planned, and recieved a nice surprise. Management had all of the paint dispensers replaced so the mix precision is now restored to new, not that it was ever bad. The paint guy knows the PPG Shopline paint inside and out. I have worked with the manager before on four previous jobs and she is fair and honest. She discounts the costs for me and measures the labor honestly (repeat customer). The TR6 requires very little body work so the labor charge is minimal. There are four holes in the rear deck lid that will be welded closed (old luggage rack mounts) and a small rust spot where water leaked in through one of the holes. Other than that, there are just a few dimples on the bonnet that will be flattened. And of course sanding to a stable base. The finishing process will then be: repairs > high build epoxy sealant > block sanding > basecoat > 3 layers of clearcoat. All done in urethane for a wet-look gloss. One week turn around and starting on a Monday. Paint by the end of the week, final curing over the weekend. Triumph number '82 Carmine' red paint color is of course, not in their color formula table. The car is 45 years old and as we know, somewhat rare to boot. I have the PPG, Dupont and Ditzler paint codes as well as the Triumph code but that doesn't really help. What I do have that will work is a bottle of Carmine red touchup paint and the color is correct. So, I'm going to paint a sample card with that paint and their color computer can scan and match it! The paint guy is meticulous and will mix a test to compare. After that its painting as normal. I will also save the formula in case of subsequent work (gasp). Its Saturday morning so my junior mechanic, a.k.a. grandson, comes to help at the shop. We have great fun on Saturday mornings. We first have breakfast, then go to the shop. Sometimes we go to Harbor Freight together to walk the isles and get the free doodad of the week. Once at the shop we do actual work - for a while - then he rides his bike and visits with the guy in the unit next door. That guy often brings his teenage daughter along and she is great with Kelum...and she is a motorhead, restoring her old pickup truck. That's it. Off to work and play. Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave1massey at cs.com Sat Sep 14 06:47:39 2019 From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY) Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2019 12:47:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Carmine Red #82 Help please... In-Reply-To: References: <1888969361.4711106.1568402454574@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1517762452.4833210.1568465259991@mail.yahoo.com> Indeed.? I set up a camera on a tripod and made a sequence of photos of the frame reassembly.? What fun. Dave -----Original Message----- From: Richard Lindsay To: alan salvatore Cc: DAVID MASSEY ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sat, Sep 14, 2019 5:16 am Subject: Re: [6pack] Carmine Red #82 Help please... >?Nothing looks worse than opening the door and seeing the latches> painted over..>> Al? ? ?So true. And nothing says 'amateur' more than reusing or paint on old rubber gaskets! My car is stripped bare. No windscreen, no door 'innards', no dash or interior. Only things still there are an old GT6 steering wheel and shifter knob, an old driver's seat mounted on restored seat rails, and bungee cords to keep the doors closed.? ?I am already excited to begin the reassembly. Seeing it come back together is such a treat! Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alansalvy at gmail.com Sat Sep 14 09:00:18 2019 From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore) Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2019 11:00:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Carmine Red #82 Help please... In-Reply-To: <1517762452.4833210.1568465259991@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1888969361.4711106.1568402454574@mail.yahoo.com> <1517762452.4833210.1568465259991@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Sounds like your all set! On Sat, Sep 14, 2019 at 8:47 AM DAVID MASSEY wrote: > Indeed. I set up a camera on a tripod and made a sequence of photos of > the frame reassembly. What fun. > > Dave > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Lindsay > To: alan salvatore > Cc: DAVID MASSEY ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Sat, Sep 14, 2019 5:16 am > Subject: Re: [6pack] Carmine Red #82 Help please... > > > Nothing looks worse than opening the door and seeing the latches > > painted over.. > > > > Al > > So true. And nothing says 'amateur' more than reusing or paint on old > rubber gaskets! My car is stripped bare. No windscreen, no door 'innards', > no dash or interior. Only things still there are an old GT6 steering wheel > and shifter knob, an old driver's seat mounted on restored seat rails, and > bungee cords to keep the doors closed. > I am already excited to begin the reassembly. Seeing it come back > together is such a treat! > > Rick > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Sat Sep 14 13:37:21 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Sat, 14 Sep 2019 14:37:21 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Paint In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hello Friends, Just a quick post to share the morning's work. Prep for engine removal from our Maserati Biturbo parts car. http://aubard.us/85_Maserati_Parts/20190914_100800.jpg Rick On Sat, Sep 14, 2019, 6:34 AM Richard Lindsay wrote: > Its Saturday morning so my junior mechanic, a.k.a. grandson, comes to > help at the shop. We have great fun on Saturday mornings. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Mon Sep 16 08:34:05 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 09:34:05 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Master cylinder Message-ID: You guys heard of over extending a brake master cylinder? If so, please tell me more. With a small block under the pedal i can't seem to get the MC to fill properly. Help, please. Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Mon Sep 16 10:16:05 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 11:16:05 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Color Message-ID: Hello Friends, Today I replaced all of the fuel hoses and clamps in my TR6. The hose not only has a nylon jacket, it is also steel reinforced! http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190916_093011.jpg I found a beautiful color match for the Triumph Carmine Red. Its a GM color and easily repeatable in case of accident. In the picture linked below, the upper sample is Triumph #82 Carmine, the code for which my painter can't find...but it is available in the custom touch-up paint market. The lower sample is a GM color. http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190916_103740.jpg Here's the data. http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190916_103637.jpg Rick From colinthom at shaw.ca Mon Sep 16 12:30:04 2019 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (COLIN THOM) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 12:30:04 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [6pack] Master cylinder (Richard Lindsay) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1014311330.315461340.1568658604225.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> Why would you restrict pedal travel by putting a wood block under it? You won't harm anything by letting the pedal achieve its full travel. Ever. Colin From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, September 16, 2019 11:00:04 AM Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 20 Send 6pack mailing list submissions to 6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to 6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at 6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Master cylinder (Richard Lindsay) 2. Color (Richard Lindsay) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 09:34:05 -0500 From: Richard Lindsay To: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Master cylinder Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" You guys heard of over extending a brake master cylinder? If so, please tell me more. With a small block under the pedal i can't seem to get the MC to fill properly. Help, please. Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 11:16:05 -0500 From: Richard Lindsay To: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Color Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Hello Friends, Today I replaced all of the fuel hoses and clamps in my TR6. The hose not only has a nylon jacket, it is also steel reinforced! http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190916_093011.jpg I found a beautiful color match for the Triumph Carmine Red. Its a GM color and easily repeatable in case of accident. In the picture linked below, the upper sample is Triumph #82 Carmine, the code for which my painter can't find...but it is available in the custom touch-up paint market. The lower sample is a GM color. http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190916_103740.jpg Here's the data. http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190916_103637.jpg Rick ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ 6pack mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack ------------------------------ End of 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 20 ************************************* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Mon Sep 16 13:09:51 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 14:09:51 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Master cylinder (Richard Lindsay) In-Reply-To: <1014311330.315461340.1568658604225.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> References: <1014311330.315461340.1568658604225.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> Message-ID: Thank you. Others have argued seal damage by allowing full travel. Just taking the safer path. Will remove it now. On Mon, Sep 16, 2019, 1:45 PM COLIN THOM wrote: > Why would you restrict pedal travel by putting a wood block under it? You > won't harm anything by letting the pedal achieve its full travel. Ever. > > Colin > > ------------------------------ > *From: *6pack-request at autox.team.net > *To: *6pack at autox.team.net > *Sent: *Monday, September 16, 2019 11:00:04 AM > *Subject: *6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 20 > > Send 6pack mailing list submissions to > 6pack at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > 6pack-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > 6pack-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Master cylinder (Richard Lindsay) > 2. Color (Richard Lindsay) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 09:34:05 -0500 > From: Richard Lindsay > To: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: [6pack] Master cylinder > Message-ID: > < > CAOc+-dwbgSptyJjg9HqZiAjP_uBGmKK__XYP6weYiRyg0M01Tg at mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > You guys heard of over extending a brake master cylinder? If so, please > tell me more. With a small block under the pedal i can't seem to get the MC > to fill properly. Help, please. > > Rick > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://autox.team.net/pipermail/6pack/attachments/20190916/f22633e1/attachment-0001.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 11:16:05 -0500 > From: Richard Lindsay > To: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: [6pack] Color > Message-ID: > < > CAOc+-dyqnfb6siXRK8XfG6ymDqa+6wpvpPO2Fzu79gTFKxM-hw at mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > Hello Friends, > > Today I replaced all of the fuel hoses and clamps in my TR6. The > hose not only has a nylon jacket, it is also steel reinforced! > > http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190916_093011.jpg > > I found a beautiful color match for the Triumph Carmine Red. Its a > GM color and easily repeatable in case of accident. In the picture > linked below, the upper sample is Triumph #82 Carmine, the code for > which my painter can't find...but it is available in the custom > touch-up paint market. The lower sample is a GM color. > > http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190916_103740.jpg > > Here's the data. > > http://aubard.us/75_Triumph/20190916_103637.jpg > > Rick > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > 6pack mailing list > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > ------------------------------ > > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 20 > ************************************* > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com Mon Sep 16 13:57:56 2019 From: taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com (Richard Taylor) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 12:57:56 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Brake MC Message-ID: <4E00EC1C-EC5A-4F4E-831B-3209B7ED9D76@yahoo.com> I don?t understand the logic of limiting the travel of the brake pedal, either. While this pedal shouldn?t have to travel even half of it stroke to apply full pressure to the brakes, we wouldn?t want to limit it should there be a failure in, say, half of the system. (Which would require a deeper pedal to make contact. I don?t know if it applies to this (brake) limiting of the pedal, but there are some clutch operating systems that require a ?pedal stop? so that the throwout bearing isn?t pushed out too far during the clutch disengagement. The hydraulic bearing in the Toyota 5 speed conversion would be one of them. Dick From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Sep 16 15:46:11 2019 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 21:46:11 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Brake MC In-Reply-To: <4E00EC1C-EC5A-4F4E-831B-3209B7ED9D76@yahoo.com> References: <4E00EC1C-EC5A-4F4E-831B-3209B7ED9D76@yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have heard stories about someone bleeding the breaks, (not loved LBC but their daily driver), after replacing a caliper or wheel cylinder, and shortly thereafter experienced a master cylinder failure. The reported reason was the master cylinder was being pressed into territory that it didn't travel under normal conditions, and due to slight pitting or corrosion, the seals in the master were compromised. The block under the pedal is reported to hopefully prevent this. Obviously not necessary with a new master cylinder. YMMV, Sloane ________________________________ From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Richard Taylor via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, September 16, 2019 7:57 PM To: 6pack list <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Brake MC I don?t understand the logic of limiting the travel of the brake pedal, either. While this pedal shouldn?t have to travel even half of it stroke to apply full pressure to the brakes, we wouldn?t want to limit it should there be a failure in, say, half of the system. (Which would require a deeper pedal to make contact. I don?t know if it applies to this (brake) limiting of the pedal, but there are some clutch operating systems that require a ?pedal stop? so that the throwout bearing isn?t pushed out too far during the clutch disengagement. The hydraulic bearing in the Toyota 5 speed conversion would be one of them. Dick Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/im_sloane at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Mon Sep 16 15:51:16 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Mon, 16 Sep 2019 16:51:16 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Brake MC In-Reply-To: References: <4E00EC1C-EC5A-4F4E-831B-3209B7ED9D76@yahoo.com> Message-ID: That makes perfect sense. Thank you. On Mon, Sep 16, 2019, 4:46 PM im sloane via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > I have heard stories about someone bleeding the breaks, (not loved LBC but > their daily driver), after replacing a caliper or wheel cylinder, and > shortly thereafter experienced a master cylinder failure. The reported > reason was the master cylinder was being pressed into territory that it > didn't travel under normal conditions, and due to slight pitting or > corrosion, the seals in the master were compromised. The block under the > pedal is reported to hopefully prevent this. Obviously not necessary with > a new master cylinder. > > YMMV, > Sloane > ------------------------------ > *From:* 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Richard Taylor > via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > *Sent:* Monday, September 16, 2019 7:57 PM > *To:* 6pack list <6pack at autox.team.net> > *Subject:* [6pack] Brake MC > > I don?t understand the logic of limiting the travel of the brake pedal, > either. While this pedal shouldn?t have to travel even half of it stroke to > apply full pressure to the brakes, we wouldn?t want to limit it should > there be a failure in, say, half of the system. (Which would require a > deeper pedal to make contact. > > I don?t know if it applies to this (brake) limiting of the pedal, but > there are some clutch operating systems that require a ?pedal stop? so that > the throwout bearing isn?t pushed out too far during the clutch > disengagement. The hydraulic bearing in the Toyota 5 speed conversion would > be one of them. > > Dick > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/im_sloane at hotmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/richardolindsay at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Fri Sep 20 09:36:28 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Fri, 20 Sep 2019 10:36:28 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Bad brake master cylinders Message-ID: Hello, A couple of you (who's names I can't remember, sorry) wrote about receiving defective brake master cylinders from Moss. I'm in the same boat. There's a chance that I got BOTH of these MCs from VickyBrit but I doubt it. Anyway... The first MC worked fine on the front brake circuit but the rear circuit was sealed! No fluid movement at all. The second MC must be leaking internally. It will not build pressure front OR rear, but fluid does flow. After multiple bleeding, the pedal will build up a little resistance then goes to the floor. Let set for 2-3 minutes and the pedal goes to the floor with no resistance at all. Do these symptoms sound familiar to you? And who sells a good MC for a '75 TR6? Thanks. Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From im_sloane at hotmail.com Fri Sep 20 20:58:28 2019 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2019 02:58:28 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Bad brake master cylinders In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: My experience with brake components is that Moss will sell OEM TRW (they bought Gerling) items and also offer a cheaper aftermarket (GOLD) item. The Roadster Factory will only sell TRW (Gerling) items. I wouldn't buy anything from J.C. VictoriaBrit Whitney, especially not brake related. Sorry, no experience with the symptoms you described. Sloane 69 Six 72 Spit ________________________________ From: 6pack <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Richard Lindsay via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, September 20, 2019 3:36 PM To: TR6 <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Bad brake master cylinders Hello, A couple of you (who's names I can't remember, sorry) wrote about receiving defective brake master cylinders from Moss. I'm in the same boat. There's a chance that I got BOTH of these MCs from VickyBrit but I doubt it. Anyway... The first MC worked fine on the front brake circuit but the rear circuit was sealed! No fluid movement at all. The second MC must be leaking internally. It will not build pressure front OR rear, but fluid does flow. After multiple bleeding, the pedal will build up a little resistance then goes to the floor. Let set for 2-3 minutes and the pedal goes to the floor with no resistance at all. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From janah at att.net Sat Sep 21 16:08:16 2019 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2019 22:08:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Bad brake master cylinders References: <1634626651.10728913.1569103696490.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1634626651.10728913.1569103696490@mail.yahoo.com> There are a number of master cylinders on the market. TRW/Gurling are the OEM choice. They cost more but usually the quality is better. There are aftermarket master cylinders usually made in China or India. These can work but out of the box failures have been reported. These are usually lower cost. But there is a risk associated with them. I think (no evidence) that If you put one in and it works then it is no worse than any other. ? Moss sells those gold grade cylinders. These are at a premium price and are supposed to be higher quality. However, when the product was new they had some out of the box failures. I have not heard of anymore OOB failures with the gold grade. Moss is a large company and if there was an issue, I am sure they would have corrected it.? The difficulty in all of this is I am not aware of the circumstances of these failures or even if they were real failures due to a quality issue rather than mis-use or poor installation by the owner.? It is important to Bench Bleed these assemblies. See YouTube or your service manual or the Haynes book (IMHO the Chilton books are worthless - sorry). Bench bleeding can be done in the car. See www.bullfire.net Then there is the fluid. DOT 3 and DOT 4 cause the elastomers to swell. Eventually the elastomers will fail but frequent use of the car seems to extend the life of the seals. I think changing out the fluid every 2 years or so is a good thing / helps avoid water in your brake lines. DOT 5 is controversial because the manufacturers include box inserts that say if you use DOT 5 it voids their warranty. They don?t say that DOT 5 is incompatible. They just won?t support it. I will use DOT 5 because my car is newly restored and painted and I don?t want paint damage if the cylinder leaks. YMMV.? Good luck and I hope this was useful.? John Cyg70 DamsonCC52927LO? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Sat Sep 21 17:06:53 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave at ranteer.com) Date: Sat, 21 Sep 2019 16:06:53 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Bad brake master cylinders Message-ID: <20190921160653.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.1ee851e445.wbe@email26.godaddy.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vsnively at aol.com Sun Sep 29 08:34:21 2019 From: vsnively at aol.com (Victor Snively) Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 14:34:21 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR References: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264@mail.yahoo.com> Fellow Enthusiasts,?Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the drain petcock ??Thanks,Vic Snively'75 TR6 w/AC?? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alansalvy at gmail.com Sun Sep 29 09:22:10 2019 From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore) Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 11:22:10 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR In-Reply-To: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1397271111.599844.1569767661264@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: It can, you will need to change the thermostat elbow cover to a 74 or early cover and use a 74 top radiator hose. Al On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 10:34 AM Victor Snively via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > Fellow Enthusiasts, > > Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the > drain petcock ? > > Thanks, > Vic Snively > '75 TR6 w/AC > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vsnively at aol.com Mon Sep 30 05:10:24 2019 From: vsnively at aol.com (Victor Snively) Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 11:10:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR In-Reply-To: References: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1397271111.599844.1569767661264@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1350444813.830201.1569841824426@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Al??-----Original Message----- From: alan salvatore To: Victor Snively Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sun, Sep 29, 2019 11:22 am Subject: Re: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR It can,? you will need to change the thermostat? elbow cover to a 74 or early cover and use a 74 top radiator hose. Al On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 10:34 AM Victor Snively via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: Fellow Enthusiasts,?Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the drain petcock ??Thanks,Vic Snively'75 TR6 w/AC??_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From colinthom at shaw.ca Mon Sep 30 09:29:22 2019 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (COLIN THOM) Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 09:29:22 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1535478352.375800668.1569857362319.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> ...and you want to add the drain petcock. A decent rad shop can do it in a half hour. I positioned mine on the left side, back face of the rad, in the most reachable place I could find making sure there was room for the petcock to turn. You'll be glad you did. Colin From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 11:00:04 AM Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26 Send 6pack mailing list submissions to 6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to 6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at 6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: 1. 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (Victor Snively) 2. Re: 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (alan salvatore) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 14:34:21 +0000 (UTC) From: Victor Snively To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR Message-ID: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Fellow Enthusiasts,?Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the drain petcock ??Thanks,Vic Snively'75 TR6 w/AC?? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 11:22:10 -0400 From: alan salvatore To: Victor Snively Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" It can, you will need to change the thermostat elbow cover to a 74 or early cover and use a 74 top radiator hose. Al On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 10:34 AM Victor Snively via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > Fellow Enthusiasts, > > Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the > drain petcock ? > > Thanks, > Vic Snively > '75 TR6 w/AC > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ 6pack mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack ------------------------------ End of 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26 ************************************* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From btp44 at aol.com Mon Sep 30 11:24:24 2019 From: btp44 at aol.com (Berry Price) Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 17:24:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR References: <1363455159.962765.1569864264041.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1363455159.962765.1569864264041@mail.yahoo.com> Vic-The thermostat outlet you will need for the early radiator is cheap and easily available. The outlet used on the 75-76 cars is not being reproduced and getting hard to find. So, you might want keep it with the car or sell it for the current market price.Berry -----Original Message----- From: COLIN THOM via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>; vsnively Sent: Mon, Sep 30, 2019 8:29 am Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR ...and you want to add the drain petcock. A decent rad shop can do it in a half hour. I positioned mine on the left side, back face of the rad, in the most reachable place I could find making sure there was room for the petcock to turn. You'll be glad you did.Colin From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 11:00:04 AM Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26 Send 6pack mailing list submissions to ????????6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ????????http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ????????6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ????????6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: ?? 1. 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (Victor Snively) ?? 2. Re: 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (alan salvatore) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 14:34:21 +0000 (UTC) From: Victor Snively To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR Message-ID: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Fellow Enthusiasts,?Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the drain petcock ??Thanks,Vic Snively'75 TR6 w/AC?? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 11:22:10 -0400 From: alan salvatore To: Victor Snively Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR Message-ID: ???????? Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" It can, ?you will need to change the thermostat ?elbow cover to a 74 or early cover and use a 74 top radiator hose. Al On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 10:34 AM Victor Snively via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > Fellow Enthusiasts, > > Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the > drain petcock ? > > Thanks, > Vic Snively > '75 TR6 w/AC > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ 6pack mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack ------------------------------ End of 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26 ************************************* _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/btp44 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vsnively at aol.com Mon Sep 30 15:04:05 2019 From: vsnively at aol.com (Victor Snively) Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 21:04:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR In-Reply-To: <1535478352.375800668.1569857362319.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> References: <1535478352.375800668.1569857362319.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <373537499.1059548.1569877445688@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks !??-----Original Message----- From: COLIN THOM To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>; vsnively Sent: Mon, Sep 30, 2019 11:29 am Subject: 1975 MODEL RADIATOR ...and you want to add the drain petcock. A decent rad shop can do it in a half hour. I positioned mine on the left side, back face of the rad, in the most reachable place I could find making sure there was room for the petcock to turn. You'll be glad you did.Colin From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 11:00:04 AM Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26 Send 6pack mailing list submissions to ????????6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ????????http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ????????6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ????????6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: ?? 1. 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (Victor Snively) ?? 2. Re: 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (alan salvatore) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 14:34:21 +0000 (UTC) From: Victor Snively To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR Message-ID: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Fellow Enthusiasts,?Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the drain petcock ??Thanks,Vic Snively'75 TR6 w/AC?? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 11:22:10 -0400 From: alan salvatore To: Victor Snively Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR Message-ID: ???????? Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" It can, ?you will need to change the thermostat ?elbow cover to a 74 or early cover and use a 74 top radiator hose. Al On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 10:34 AM Victor Snively via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > Fellow Enthusiasts, > > Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the > drain petcock ? > > Thanks, > Vic Snively > '75 TR6 w/AC > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ 6pack mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack ------------------------------ End of 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26 ************************************* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrochlin at comcast.net Mon Sep 30 15:49:50 2019 From: rrochlin at comcast.net (Robert Rochlin) Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 17:49:50 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR In-Reply-To: <1535478352.375800668.1569857362319.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> References: <1535478352.375800668.1569857362319.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <02FC7DDD-2030-4C4F-B92A-52D540A1A7AB@comcast.net> Radiator Shop you say, the closest real radiator shop from here just outside of Boson is in Worcester MA, at least an hour away. All the closer places are ?we?ll replace your radiator shops?. Bob ?72TR 6 Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 30, 2019, at 11:29 AM, COLIN THOM via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > ...and you want to add the drain petcock. A decent rad shop can do it in a half hour. I positioned mine on the left side, back face of the rad, in the most reachable place I could find making sure there was room for the petcock to turn. > > You'll be glad you did. > Colin > > From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 11:00:04 AM > Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26 > > Send 6pack mailing list submissions to > 6pack at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > 6pack-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > 6pack-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (Victor Snively) > 2. Re: 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (alan salvatore) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 14:34:21 +0000 (UTC) > From: Victor Snively > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR > Message-ID: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264 at mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Fellow Enthusiasts,?Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the drain petcock ??Thanks,Vic Snively'75 TR6 w/AC?? > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 11:22:10 -0400 > From: alan salvatore > To: Victor Snively > Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > It can, you will need to change the thermostat elbow cover to a 74 or > early cover and use a 74 top radiator hose. > > Al > > On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 10:34 AM Victor Snively via 6pack < > 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > Fellow Enthusiasts, > > > > Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the > > drain petcock ? > > > > Thanks, > > Vic Snively > > '75 TR6 w/AC > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > 6pack mailing list > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > ------------------------------ > > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26 > ************************************* > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rrochlin at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From aljlthomson at charter.net Mon Sep 30 16:09:27 2019 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2019 18:09:27 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR In-Reply-To: <02FC7DDD-2030-4C4F-B92A-52D540A1A7AB@comcast.net> References: <1535478352.375800668.1569857362319.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> <02FC7DDD-2030-4C4F-B92A-52D540A1A7AB@comcast.net> Message-ID: <004b01d577db$ba2ad4d0$2e807e70$@charter.net> Try stopping in at a truck dealer (or industrial or farm equipment) and find out who they use for radiator repair. Alex Thomson From: 6pack [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Rochlin via 6pack Sent: Monday, September 30, 2019 5:50 PM To: COLIN THOM Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR Radiator Shop you say, the closest real radiator shop from here just outside of Boson is in Worcester MA, at least an hour away. All the closer places are ?we?ll replace your radiator shops?. Bob ?72TR 6 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 30, 2019, at 11:29 AM, COLIN THOM via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: ? ...and you want to add the drain petcock. A decent rad shop can do it in a half hour. I positioned mine on the left side, back face of the rad, in the most reachable place I could find making sure there was room for the petcock to turn. You'll be glad you did. Colin _____ From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 11:00:04 AM Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26 Send 6pack mailing list submissions to 6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to 6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at 6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: 1. 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (Victor Snively) 2. Re: 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (alan salvatore) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 14:34:21 +0000 (UTC) From: Victor Snively To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR Message-ID: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Fellow Enthusiasts,?Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the drain petcock ??Thanks,Vic Snively'75 TR6 w/AC?? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 11:22:10 -0400 From: alan salvatore To: Victor Snively Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" It can, you will need to change the thermostat elbow cover to a 74 or early cover and use a 74 top radiator hose. Al On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 10:34 AM Victor Snively via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > Fellow Enthusiasts, > > Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the > drain petcock ? > > Thanks, > Vic Snively > '75 TR6 w/AC > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ 6pack mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack ------------------------------ End of 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26 ************************************* _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rrochlin at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vsnively at aol.com Mon Sep 30 20:18:57 2019 From: vsnively at aol.com (Victor Snively) Date: Tue, 1 Oct 2019 02:18:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR In-Reply-To: <02FC7DDD-2030-4C4F-B92A-52D540A1A7AB@comcast.net> References: <1535478352.375800668.1569857362319.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> <02FC7DDD-2030-4C4F-B92A-52D540A1A7AB@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1127731002.1135575.1569896337200@mail.yahoo.com> Thanks Bob. All of the expert advice is to repair the original. Thought I was in for a gravy job pulling it, but with A/C, air pump, and charcoal canister, 3-1/2 hours !??-----Original Message----- From: Robert Rochlin To: COLIN THOM Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>; vsnively Sent: Mon, Sep 30, 2019 5:49 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR Radiator Shop you say, the closest real radiator shop from here just outside of Boson is in Worcester MA, at least an hour away. All the closer places are ?we?ll replace your radiator shops?.Bob?72TR 6 Sent from my iPhone On Sep 30, 2019, at 11:29 AM, COLIN THOM via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: ?...and you want to add the drain petcock. A decent rad shop can do it in a half hour. I positioned mine on the left side, back face of the rad, in the most reachable place I could find making sure there was room for the petcock to turn. You'll be glad you did.Colin From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2019 11:00:04 AM Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26 Send 6pack mailing list submissions to ????????6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ????????http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ????????6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ????????6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: ?? 1. 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (Victor Snively) ?? 2. Re: 1975 MODEL RADIATOR (alan salvatore) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 14:34:21 +0000 (UTC) From: Victor Snively To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR Message-ID: <1397271111.599844.1569767661264 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Fellow Enthusiasts,?Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the drain petcock ??Thanks,Vic Snively'75 TR6 w/AC?? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Sun, 29 Sep 2019 11:22:10 -0400 From: alan salvatore To: Victor Snively Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] 1975 MODEL RADIATOR Message-ID: ???????? Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" It can, ?you will need to change the thermostat ?elbow cover to a 74 or early cover and use a 74 top radiator hose. Al On Sun, Sep 29, 2019, 10:34 AM Victor Snively via 6pack < 6pack at autox.team.net> wrote: > Fellow Enthusiasts, > > Will a 1973-on radiator fit my 1975 model if I'm willing to forego the > drain petcock ? > > Thanks, > Vic Snively > '75 TR6 w/AC > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ 6pack mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack ------------------------------ End of 6pack Digest, Vol 56, Issue 26 ************************************* _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rrochlin at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: