From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Tue Jul  5 09:46:42 2022
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Yahoo)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2022 15:46:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] 73 emissions question
References: <1152661635.2174618.1657036002248.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1152661635.2174618.1657036002248@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi all? ? just went back to ZS carbs after 20 years with hs6.? ?I had a decent set of ZS on the shelf so used them rather then rebuilding hs6? ? Looking at the carbs from the passenger side of the car, the metal tubes that go straight out to the left are vented to air.? ?Should the metal tubes on the right side that go up at a 45 degree angle be capped or vented to air??I ran the vacuum line from retard capsule over to bottom of carb.? The rocker cover vent tube vents to air outside the engine bay.? No emissions test or inspection in my sparsely populated province.? ?Thank you, Bruce Simms?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Jul  6 11:42:35 2022
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Robert Perry)
Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2022 17:42:35 +0000
Subject: [6pack] 73 emissions question
Message-ID: <ec4ec016-7092-243a-11ab-98f260055de6@earthlink.net>

Bruce,
?
Attached are two pics on an original 1972 TR6 with ZS carbs with no emissions except for carbon canister in the front next to the radiator.
?
Regards,
?
Robert
-----Original Message-----
From: Yahoo 
Sent: Jul 5, 2022 9:05 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net 
Subject: [6pack] 73 emissions question
?
Hi all? ? just went back to ZS carbs after 20 years with hs6.? ?I had a decent set of ZS on the shelf so used them rather then rebuilding hs6? ? Looking at the carbs from the passenger side of the car, the metal tubes that go straight out to the left are vented to air.? ?Should the metal tubes on the right side that go up at a 45 degree angle be capped or vented to air??I ran the vacuum line from retard capsule over to bottom of carb.? The rocker cover vent tube vents to air outside the engine bay.? No emissions test or inspection in my sparsely populated province.? ?
Thank you, Bruce Simms?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android (https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature)




?
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From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Wed Jul  6 14:35:36 2022
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Yahoo)
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2022 20:35:36 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] 73 emissions question
In-Reply-To: <ec4ec016-7092-243a-11ab-98f260055de6@earthlink.net>
References: <ec4ec016-7092-243a-11ab-98f260055de6@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <696925700.2318100.1657139736737@mail.yahoo.com>

Robert.? Thanks for that.? ? I got rid of the carbon cannister many years ago when I switched to SUs or maybe earlier.? ?So what to do with the metal vent tubes on the carbs that connect to the cannister in your pic - cap them or vent to air?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Wed., 6 Jul. 2022 at 11:42 a.m., Robert Perry<rgperry at earthlink.net> wrote:   
Bruce,

?

Attached are two pics on an original 1972 TR6 with ZS carbs with no emissions except for carbon canister in the front next to the radiator.

?

Regards,

?

Robert

-----Original Message-----
From: Yahoo <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>
Sent: Jul 5, 2022 9:05 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] 73 emissions question

?
Hi all? ? just went back to ZS carbs after 20 years with hs6.? ?I had a decent set of ZS on the shelf so used them rather then rebuilding hs6? ? Looking at the carbs from the passenger side of the car, the metal tubes that go straight out to the left are vented to air.? ?Should the metal tubes on the right side that go up at a 45 degree angle be capped or vented to air??I ran the vacuum line from retard capsule over to bottom of carb.? The rocker cover vent tube vents to air outside the engine bay.? No emissions test or inspection in my sparsely populated province.? ?Thank you, Bruce Simms?

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
?
  
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From lfm614 at aol.com  Wed Jul  6 16:51:24 2022
From: lfm614 at aol.com (Luis)
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2022 17:51:24 -0500
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 88, Issue 2
In-Reply-To: <mailman.806.1657129370.24409.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.806.1657129370.24409.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B3E44F86-D015-484D-A860-ADAC89C5E4AA@aol.com>

I believe those are 73+ carbs if they have the float vent tubes and valves.  

Take a look at TRF or Moss diagrams in their online catalogs.  They are in the emission section. 

Lou
72 Pimento 

> On Jul 6, 2022, at 3:54 PM, 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> ?Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
>    6pack at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    6pack-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    6pack-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: 73 emissions question (Robert Perry)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2022 17:42:35 +0000
> From: Robert Perry <rgperry at earthlink.net>
> To: Yahoo <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>, 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] 73 emissions question
> Message-ID: <ec4ec016-7092-243a-11ab-98f260055de6 at earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Bruce,
> ?
> Attached are two pics on an original 1972 TR6 with ZS carbs with no emissions except for carbon canister in the front next to the radiator.
> ?
> Regards,
> ?
> Robert
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Yahoo 
> Sent: Jul 5, 2022 9:05 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] 73 emissions question
> ?
> Hi all? ? just went back to ZS carbs after 20 years with hs6.? ?I had a decent set of ZS on the shelf so used them rather then rebuilding hs6? ? Looking at the carbs from the passenger side of the car, the metal tubes that go straight out to the left are vented to air.? ?Should the metal tubes on the right side that go up at a 45 degree angle be capped or vented to air??I ran the vacuum line from retard capsule over to bottom of carb.? The rocker cover vent tube vents to air outside the engine bay.? No emissions test or inspection in my sparsely populated province.? ?
> Thank you, Bruce Simms?
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android (https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 6pack mailing list
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 88, Issue 2
> ************************************


From rgperry at earthlink.net  Thu Jul  7 06:25:51 2022
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Robert Perry)
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2022 12:25:51 +0000
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 88, Issue 2
Message-ID: <63b375fa-fcf5-f55d-ecd1-fe83426fc11b@earthlink.net>

Luis,

Built June 1972 during a transition period.  The small tube at the top of the charcoal canister comes from the fuel tank vent to capture and burn the fumes through the vacuum of the engine.

Regards,
Robert

From: Luis <lfm614 at aol.com>
Sent: Jul 6, 2022 9:16 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 88, Issue 2

I believe those are 73+ carbs if they have the float vent tubes and valves.

Take a look at TRF or Moss diagrams in their online catalogs. They are in the emission section.

Lou
72 Pimento

> Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2022 17:42:35 +0000
> From: Robert Perry
> To: Yahoo , 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] 73 emissions question
>
> Bruce,
> 
> Attached are two pics on an original 1972 TR6 with ZS carbs with no emissions except for carbon canister in the front next to the radiator.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Robert
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Yahoo
> Sent: Jul 5, 2022 9:05 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] 73 emissions question
> ?
> Hi all? ? just went back to ZS carbs after 20 years with hs6.? ?I had a decent set of ZS on the shelf so used them rather then rebuilding hs6? ? Looking at the carbs from the passenger side of the car, the metal tubes that go straight out to the left are vented to air.? ?Should the metal tubes on the right side that go up at a 45 degree angle be capped or vented to air??I ran the vacuum line from retard capsule over to bottom of carb.? The rocker cover vent tube vents to air outside the engine bay.? No emissions test or inspection in my sparsely populated province.? ?
> Thank you, Bruce Simms?
>
___________________________________________
> 6pack mailing list
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rgperry at earthlink.net



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From jaystr8 at comcast.net  Thu Jul  7 16:23:13 2022
From: jaystr8 at comcast.net (Jay Snavely)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2022 18:23:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures
Message-ID: <020301d89250$268b9330$73a2b990$@comcast.net>

I have just replaced the electrical switch part of the ignition switch on my
72 TR6, for the 2nd time in 2 years.  Both switches were genuine Lucas
parts.  LU39415  The car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this
period.  I am wondering if there might be a situation with the car that is
causing the failures?  The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harness
15 years ago.  I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained the
ammeter.  And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. There was a
burnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch, but I
could not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector causing it
to over heat.  Is there any reason to add a relay?  There doesn't seem to be
that much current in the red/white wire going to the starter solenoid.
Thanks.

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From rgperry at earthlink.net  Fri Jul  8 05:09:25 2022
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Robert Perry)
Date: Fri, 08 Jul 2022 11:09:25 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures
Message-ID: <ed6595e7-c553-36d5-07fa-535700c8bc79@earthlink.net>

Jay,

I have experienced this situation also.  I just keep a spare ignition switch in the trunk.  I have taken the switch apart before and cleaned the contacts.  This works for a little bit of time if the contacts are not too burnt, but I end up replacing the switch.

Regards,

Robert
-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8 at comcast.net>
Sent: Jul 7, 2022 7:40 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures

I have just replaced the electrical switch part of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the 2nd time in 2 years.  Both switches were genuine Lucas parts.  LU39415  The car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this period.  I am wondering if there might be a situation with the car that is causing the failures?  The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harness 15 years ago.  I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained the ammeter.  And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. There was a burnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch, but I could not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector causing it to over heat.  Is there any reason to add a relay?  There doesn&rsquo;t seem to be that much current in the red/white wire going to the starter solenoid.  Thanks.



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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul  8 05:50:02 2022
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 11:50:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures
In-Reply-To: <ed6595e7-c553-36d5-07fa-535700c8bc79@earthlink.net>
References: <ed6595e7-c553-36d5-07fa-535700c8bc79@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <2133996172.3639430.1657281002137@mail.yahoo.com>

 Interesting.? I had a dodgy ignition switch in my 71 TR6.? I replaced it and it has been fine ever since.? That was 25 years and some 50,000 miles ago.? 

What issues are you having?? Mine would spontaneously switch off the ignition.? A little wiggle would restore power.? I've had no issues since.
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Perry <rgperry at earthlink.net>
To: Jay Snavely <jaystr8 at comcast.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2022 6:09 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures

Jay,?I have experienced this situation also.? I just keep a spare ignition switch in the trunk.? I have taken the switch apart before and cleaned the contacts.? This works for a little bit of time if the contacts are not too burnt, but I end up replacing the switch.?Regards,?Robert-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8 at comcast.net>
Sent: Jul 7, 2022 7:40 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures?I have just replaced the electrical switch part of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the 2nd time in 2 years.? Both switches were genuine Lucas parts.? LU39415? The car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this period.? I am wondering if there might be a situation with the car that is causing the failures?? The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harness 15 years ago.? I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained the ammeter.? And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. There was a burnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch, but I could not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector causing it to over heat. ?Is there any reason to add a relay?? There doesn?t seem to be that much current in the red/white wire going to the starter solenoid.? Thanks.?_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive


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From dave1massey at cs.com  Fri Jul  8 06:16:21 2022
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2022 12:16:21 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures
In-Reply-To: <020301d89250$268b9330$73a2b990$@comcast.net>
References: <020301d89250$268b9330$73a2b990$@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1251662737.3474781.1657282581260@mail.yahoo.com>

 In what manner was it failing?? There are two main functions this switch does: 1) switch on the switched circuits to the ignition, wipers, heater, turn signals, brake lights and such (everything on the white and green circuits) and 2) to energize the starter solenoid.? Is it one of these that is failing?
The brown wire is totally unassociated with the ignition switch.? The lights work the same with the switch ON or OFF.? If it is passing too much current to the switch then that same amount of current will be passing through the blue wires and they should also be burnt.? If not I suspect a dirty/poor contact especially if the wire is burnt near the connector.
Another thing to check is the state of the wire harness.? If it is loose and rubbing against some of the sheet metal the abrasion could wear away the insulation and you may be getting intermittent short circuits to ground.? Everything may seem to work OK but the short term current spikes can cause incremental damage to the switch contacts over time.
The Red/White wire carries a significant level of current.? That wire is fairly large and they would not have used a large gauge wire if they didn't need it.? Later models (TR7's and TR8's) have a relay that is activated by the switch and the relay switches power to the starter solenoid.? But the TR6 ignition switch was designed to handle the current required by the starter solenoid and, indeed, the switches typically last a long time.
So, when you switch acts up what are the symptoms?
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8 at comcast.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Jul 7, 2022 5:23 pm
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures

<!--#yiv4829406809 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4829406809 #yiv4829406809 p.yiv4829406809MsoNormal, #yiv4829406809 li.yiv4829406809MsoNormal, #yiv4829406809 div.yiv4829406809MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv4829406809 span.yiv4829406809EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv4829406809 .yiv4829406809MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv4829406809 div.yiv4829406809WordSection1 {}-->I have just replaced the electrical switch part of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the 2nd time in 2 years.? Both switches were genuine Lucas parts.? LU39415? The car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this period.? I am wondering if there might be a situation with the car that is causing the failures?? The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harness 15 years ago.? I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained the ammeter.? And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. There was a burnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch, but I could not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector causing it to over heat. ?Is there any reason to add a relay?? There doesn?t seem to be that much current in the red/white wire going to the starter solenoid.? Thanks._______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.96
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From rgperry at earthlink.net  Sun Jul 10 17:57:16 2022
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Robert Perry)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2022 23:57:16 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures
Message-ID: <c840ac37-5a5b-3af6-3426-44339b5a3898@earthlink.net>

Dave,

The ignition switch would sometimes not provide enough power to the starter solenoid to start  the starter then progressively got to the point that the starter would not start.  I could jump the starter with a screwdriver and the starter would work.  I took apart the switch and found that the fiberboard plate that rotates was scored and offset from the contacts.  The contacts were dirty with pits and not smooth anymore.  Basically wore out.  The replacement switch worked for a short while but then started having the same problem.  I took the replacement switch apart and found that the brass contacts were not aligned very well.  The contacts were mating on a small patch on the side of the two contacts instead of full contact between the two contacts for the solenoid power wire.

Regards,

Robert
-----Original Message-----
From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Sent: Jul 8, 2022 6:50 AM
To: rgperry at earthlink.net <rgperry at earthlink.net>, jaystr8 at comcast.net <jaystr8 at comcast.net>, 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures

Interesting.  I had a dodgy ignition switch in my 71 TR6.  I replaced it and it has been fine ever since.  That was 25 years and some 50,000 miles ago.  

 
What issues are you having?  Mine would spontaneously switch off the ignition.  A little wiggle would restore power.  I've had no issues since.
 
Dave 

 



 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Perry <rgperry at earthlink.net>
To: Jay Snavely <jaystr8 at comcast.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2022 6:09 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures

Jay,
 
I have experienced this situation also.  I just keep a spare ignition switch in the trunk.  I have taken the switch apart before and cleaned the contacts.  This works for a little bit of time if the contacts are not too burnt, but I end up replacing the switch.
 
Regards,
 
Robert

 
-----Original Message-----From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8 at comcast.net>Sent: Jul 7, 2022 7:40 PMTo: <6pack at autox.team.net>Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures
 
I have just replaced the electrical switch part of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the 2nd time in 2 years.  Both switches were genuine Lucas parts.  LU39415  The car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this period.  I am wondering if there might be a situation with the car that is causing the failures?  The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harness 15 years ago.  I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained the ammeter.  And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. There was a burnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch, but I could not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector causing it to over heat.  Is there any reason to add a relay?  There doesn&rsquo;t seem to be that much current in the red/white wire going to the starter solenoid.  Thanks.



 


_______________________________________________Support Team.Net Suggested annual donation  $12.96Archive: http://www.team.net/archive (http://www.team.net/donate.html)6pack at autox.team.net (mailto:6pack at autox.team.net)Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dave1massey at cs.com (http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack)




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From dave1massey at cs.com  Sun Jul 10 20:13:19 2022
From: dave1massey at cs.com (DAVID MASSEY)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2022 02:13:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures
In-Reply-To: <c840ac37-5a5b-3af6-3426-44339b5a3898@earthlink.net>
References: <c840ac37-5a5b-3af6-3426-44339b5a3898@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <597430165.3905232.1657505600008@mail.yahoo.com>

 Sounds like your typical low quality, low cost sourced parts.? You could look for an OE part from a breakers yard.? That might be your best bet.? An alternative would be to use relays to carry the heavy current.? That way the low quality ignition switch would only have to carry the coil current and the the full current.? That's a crappy work around but sometimes that is what it takes.
One of the suppliers once told me that they used to send a part to the Pacific rim and say make one like this.? That didn't work out so well.? Now they have to generate a drawing with material specifications and all sorts of things.? But you still need a QA department to inspect the incoming material and that costs money, too.? We don't have the volume to support this kind of support.? It's the nature of the hobby at this point in time.? If you can find genuine OE, go for it..
 
Dave 


 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Perry <rgperry at earthlink.net>
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>; jaystr8 at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Jul 10, 2022 6:57 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures

Dave,?The ignition switch would sometimes not provide enough power to the starter solenoid to start the starter then progressively got to the point that the starter would not start.? I could jump the starter with a screwdriver and the starter would work.? I took apart the switch and found that the fiberboard plate that rotates was scored and offset from the contacts.? The contacts were dirty with pits and not smooth anymore.? Basically wore out.? The replacement switch worked for a short while but then started having the same problem.? I took the replacement switch apart and found that the brass contacts were not aligned very well.? The contacts were mating on a small patch on the side of the two contacts instead of full contact between the two contacts for the solenoid power wire.?Regards,?Robert-----Original Message-----
From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com>
Sent: Jul 8, 2022 6:50 AM
To: rgperry at earthlink.net <rgperry at earthlink.net>, jaystr8 at comcast.net <jaystr8 at comcast.net>, 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures?Interesting.? I had a dodgy ignition switch in my 71 TR6.? I replaced it and it has been fine ever since.? That was 25 years and some 50,000 miles ago.? 
?What issues are you having?? Mine would spontaneously switch off the ignition.? A little wiggle would restore power.? I've had no issues since.?Dave 
???-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Perry <rgperry at earthlink.net>
To: Jay Snavely <jaystr8 at comcast.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2022 6:09 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures

Jay,?I have experienced this situation also.? I just keep a spare ignition switch in the trunk.? I have taken the switch apart before and cleaned the contacts.? This works for a little bit of time if the contacts are not too burnt, but I end up replacing the switch.?Regards,?Robert?-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8 at comcast.net>
Sent: Jul 7, 2022 7:40 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures?I have just replaced the electrical switch part of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the 2nd time in 2 years.? Both switches were genuine Lucas parts.? LU39415? The car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this period.? I am wondering if there might be a situation with the car that is causing the failures?? The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harness 15 years ago.? I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained the ammeter.? And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. There was a burnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch, but I could not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector causing it to over heat. ?Is there any reason to add a relay?? There doesn?t seem to be that much current in the red/white wire going to the starter solenoid.? Thanks.?_______________________________________________
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From jaystr8 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 11 08:47:15 2022
From: jaystr8 at comcast.net (Jay Snavely)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2022 10:47:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures
In-Reply-To: <597430165.3905232.1657505600008@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <c840ac37-5a5b-3af6-3426-44339b5a3898@earthlink.net>
 <597430165.3905232.1657505600008@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <00f201d89535$1dcc8e60$5965ab20$@comcast.net>

Thanks.  The new switch seems to be working good.  It was also in a green box that says Lucas, made in England.  I took to bad switch apart, but the contacts all seem to be perfect.  Maybe the parts shifted and the contact do not line up anymore.  That is possible.  Unfortunately, the parts came apart so quickly I did not see how they were positioned for re-assemby.  Is there a photo showing details?  Thanks.

 

From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com> 
Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2022 10:13 PM
To: rgperry at earthlink.net; jaystr8 at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures

 

Sounds like your typical low quality, low cost sourced parts.  You could look for an OE part from a breakers yard.  That might be your best bet.  An alternative would be to use relays to carry the heavy current.  That way the low quality ignition switch would only have to carry the coil current and the the full current.  That's a crappy work around but sometimes that is what it takes.

 

One of the suppliers once told me that they used to send a part to the Pacific rim and say make one like this.  That didn't work out so well.  Now they have to generate a drawing with material specifications and all sorts of things.  But you still need a QA department to inspect the incoming material and that costs money, too.  We don't have the volume to support this kind of support.  It's the nature of the hobby at this point in time.  If you can find genuine OE, go for it..

 

Dave 

 

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Perry <rgperry at earthlink.net <mailto:rgperry at earthlink.net> >
To: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com> >; jaystr8 at comcast.net <mailto:jaystr8 at comcast.net> ; 6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Sun, Jul 10, 2022 6:57 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures

Dave,

 

The ignition switch would sometimes not provide enough power to the starter solenoid to start the starter then progressively got to the point that the starter would not start.  I could jump the starter with a screwdriver and the starter would work.  I took apart the switch and found that the fiberboard plate that rotates was scored and offset from the contacts.  The contacts were dirty with pits and not smooth anymore.  Basically wore out.  The replacement switch worked for a short while but then started having the same problem.  I took the replacement switch apart and found that the brass contacts were not aligned very well.  The contacts were mating on a small patch on the side of the two contacts instead of full contact between the two contacts for the solenoid power wire.

 

Regards,

 

Robert

-----Original Message-----
From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey at cs.com <mailto:dave1massey at cs.com> >
Sent: Jul 8, 2022 6:50 AM
To: rgperry at earthlink.net <mailto:rgperry at earthlink.net>  <rgperry at earthlink.net <mailto:rgperry at earthlink.net> >, jaystr8 at comcast.net <mailto:jaystr8 at comcast.net>  <jaystr8 at comcast.net <mailto:jaystr8 at comcast.net> >, 6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net>  <6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures

 

Interesting.  I had a dodgy ignition switch in my 71 TR6.  I replaced it and it has been fine ever since.  That was 25 years and some 50,000 miles ago.  

 

What issues are you having?  Mine would spontaneously switch off the ignition.  A little wiggle would restore power.  I've had no issues since.

 

Dave 

 

 

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Perry <rgperry at earthlink.net <mailto:rgperry at earthlink.net> >
To: Jay Snavely <jaystr8 at comcast.net <mailto:jaystr8 at comcast.net> >; 6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Fri, Jul 8, 2022 6:09 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures

Jay,

 

I have experienced this situation also.  I just keep a spare ignition switch in the trunk.  I have taken the switch apart before and cleaned the contacts.  This works for a little bit of time if the contacts are not too burnt, but I end up replacing the switch.

 

Regards,

 

Robert

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Jay Snavely <jaystr8 at comcast.net <mailto:jaystr8 at comcast.net> >
Sent: Jul 7, 2022 7:40 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ignition Switch failures

 

I have just replaced the electrical switch part of the ignition switch on my 72 TR6, for the 2nd time in 2 years.  Both switches were genuine Lucas parts.  LU39415  The car has been driven a couple hundred miles during this period.  I am wondering if there might be a situation with the car that is causing the failures?  The wiring is pretty much stock, with a new harness 15 years ago.  I did add a voltmeter a few years ago, but retained the ammeter.  And added a circuit breaker in the headlight circuit. There was a burnt brown wire under the dash feeding power to the light switch, but I could not figure out if there was a problem or a dirty connector causing it to over heat.  Is there any reason to add a relay?  There doesn?t seem to be that much current in the red/white wire going to the starter solenoid.  Thanks.

 

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