[Bricklin] rear brake issue (3 of 3)

[John T. Blair]

d. If the wheel is off the car, I put if back on.  You'll want some 
inertia to help.  Now try to spin the wheel.  It should spin about 1 
revolution before it stops.  This sets the drag on the brakes. If it 
goes more, then you need to keep adjusting the adjuster.  If it 
doesn't go one revolution, you'll need to adjust the brakes off some.
Keep trying this until you get about one revolution of the wheel when 
you try and
spin it.


e. Once one side is right, go the the other side and repeat.

 >-Hand brake working not equal (lh: 440 rh: 160)     `50% deviation   allowed

If you look at the attached picture you'll see the hand brake, the 
threaded leaver (which is how you adjust the emergency (Parking) 
brake.  Unfortunately this system has a fixed length cable and it 
rides in the saddle at the left side of the picture.  This is the 
qualizer which is supposed to let the cable self centeralize.
So you're only adjustment is at the brake leaver.  You'll need to 
adjust the nut (tighten it) to increase the braking pressure) or 
loosen it if the brakes are binding.
You may also want to put a little axle (wheel bearing) grease on the 
saddle so the brake cable can slide easily to compensate both sides.

Again, you say this isn't pulling equally either.  This leads me to 
think that the brake shoes need adjustment.  If one has to travel 
further than the other, it can't apply as much force on the 
shoes.  Because again, the brake lever and cable can only move the 
shoes a finite amount.  So if one set of shoes have to move further 
than the other, you'll need to adjust the brakes to get them even.

I've also attahed an article I wrote about working on drum brakes and 
gives some tips on getting the drums off.

 >Drums: it is almost impossible to get the AMC part here in GER. In 
one of the
 >older part cross reference lists I have seen that there should a 
replacement (AIM
 >#2515-68065). The #2515 my local parts dealer could identify as a 
Chrysler part
 >and is was on stock. These drums are higher than the original ones, 
but all other
 >measures seems to be comparable. By checking the measures it shows up that
 >the olddrums are close to the unused measures.

You might want to see if you can find some heavy truck shops.  Ask them if they
can relign the drum.  That way you use your original drum and they 
install a new
ring for the braking material in the drum.

Hope this helps.

John
John T. Blair  WA4OHZ     email:  jblair1948 at cox.net
Va. Beach, Va                  Phone:  (757) 495-8229

           48 TR1800    48 #4 Midget    65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106)
      75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)    77 Spitfire    71 Saab Sonett III
                        65 Rambler Classic

Morgan:    www.team.net/morgan
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