[British-cars] [PreWar] are these lists still alive ?

[WSpohn4 at aol.com]

Doesn't matter.   If the crack is structural and will travel or  is 
unstable it would need to be welded, which can be done with special rod and  
preheating, but otherwise it just needs to be sealed, which brazing or Devcon  
accomplishes.  I would pressure test it (bearing in mind that it perhaps  isn't 
a pressurized system - is it thermo-siphon?) and if it isn't leaking, sand  
the brazing smooth and paint over it.
 
Don't look for more problems than you probably have.  If the repair  seems 
stable, do not be tempted to grind it all out just because it 'isn't  right' 
and replace it with something else that might be cosmetically nicer but  is 
mechanically equivalent. 
 
Bill Spohn
 
 
In a message dated 3/17/2010 9:19:44 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
mikey at b2systems.com writes:

I also  need to find out the condition of the original motor as I have
not looked  into it yet.  When I purchased the car from the original
owner, he  said it ran fine with no noises/knocks but knocked when
shutting down the  motor, turn off the ignition and there was a knock in
the motor.  Last  time this motor ran was on the S. Calif. 405 freeway in
1968 when the  brakes went out and the car was parked until I purchased
it.  There is  a visible crack in the side of the block that has been
brazed, not welded,  but brazed.