[Roadsters] starter

[Mike Harper]

John, good explanation...What he said...


--- On Fri, 10/3/08, John F Sandhoff <sandhoff at csus.edu> wrote:

> From: John F Sandhoff <sandhoff at csus.edu>
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] starter
> To: "Tim" <tputland at charter.net>
> Cc: "datsun-roadsters: autox.team.net" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, October 3, 2008, 6:11 PM
> > How do you get to the starter?
> 
> Thru the frame.
> But first: You have a 1600.
> If it has the original starter, it's longer and thinner
> than the
> shorter and fatter starter that is OEM on the 2000's.
> If you have
> a header, the U20 starter, being shorter, helps keep it
> away from
> the header heat (a long 1600 starter plus a header results
> in cooking
> the rear bushing. I've heard of some starters actually
> touching
> the header!)
> 
> The U20 starter probably has more torque, but I'm
> guessing.
> 
> If you're replacing, consider a gear reduction H20
> (forklift) starter.
> 
> But back to getting it out:
> details are in the archives somewhere, but briefly, put the
> left
> front on jack stands, remove the left wheel, and access the
> starter thru
> the triangular opening in the frame. If you turn it
> 'just right',
> it'll slide out. Some cars, as noted, have a metal
> plate tack welded
> on (presumably as a splash guard?). You may need to remove
> or bend the
> corner of the plate.
> 
> The starter will seem like there's no way it'll
> come out, and you'll
> twist and turn and curse the people that said it would, and
> suddenly
> it'll pop through and you'll say "whoa!
> How'd that happen??"
> 
> Rebuilts used to be available thru NAPA. DO NOT turn in
> your old
> one until you're CERTAIN it matches up to your new
> one!!! Sometimes
> 'the right one' has the ears rotated slightly from
> what's expected
> and in the wrong position. Subtle. You'll find out when
> you try to
> put it back in.