[Roadsters] Eliza Now Va

[Ronnie Day]

You might also want to spend some time reading through the info at
<http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system.htm> or other I-Net
sites. HP Books has a book called "Automotive Electrical Handbook" and
Haynes publishes an "Automotive Electrical Manual" that are both very
good.

Combine one or both of these with the excellent wiring diagrams
(especially the color ones) on 311s.org and you should be able to
trace things out. I had one blown up to 24 x 36 and had it laminated.
I ha color 11 x 17 copies done for $2 at Staples, but the 24 x 36 was
$20. Still worth, IMO, but you could get away with the 11 x 17 size if
your eyes are good (mine aren't so hot) and/or you use some sort of
magnifier.

One final bit of advice. When troubleshooting and/or tracing circuits,
start at one end on the circuit or the other and follow it to the
other end. Watch for any color changes. If there are any they usually
occur at junction or molded connectors.

Ron

>> Peter
>>
>> So the B/W wire goes from the ignition switch through the ballast and
>> hooks up with the y/w and then goes into the + side of the coil. Why
>> does it do that and what effect does it have. And what is the point?
>
> John

> Easier starting.
> The 'run' position of the ignition switch provides voltage thru the
> ballast resistor (B/W). The coil then 'sees' about 6 volts during normal
> operation. More importantly, this also limits current thru the points
> (without the ballast resistor you'll likely burn out the points).
>
> The 'start' position of the ignition switch not only provides voltage
> to the starter solenoid, it also provides voltage directly to the coil
> (Y/W). This full voltage provides for a more powerful spark to help
> ignite a cold fuel mix (and halps compensate for the battery voltage
> dipping during the start cycle - the load of the starter will pull the
> voltage down to 10 or fewer volts. That's why the lights dim when you're
> cranking).
>
> BTW, early Roadsters don't have this bypass circuit.