[Roadsters] Not a very interesting topic so far today, but I'm new so let's try this: dieseling out

[Gary and Cindy Ault]

Chris,

Sounds like you have the original (emission control) cam and springs
in the distributor.  34 total advance is fine, but it should be 16 BTDC at
idle in non-smog configuration.  You need to get a distributor conversion kit
from one of the suppliers and change out both the cam and springs.  You then
get 16 BTDC at idle (700 rpm) and 34 BTDC at full advance.  DO NOT simply
reset the timing at idle, or you will have way too much at speed.  If you can
fathom what parts to order from the Nissan parts manual, you may be able to
get the cam and springs from a dealer.  Since you had to "mess with the
springs" to get them to do anything, I'd replace the guts of the distributor,
or get a competent electronic conversion, ~$400.

As far as needing to pull
out the choke to get the car to accelerate, I had such a problem above about
4500 rpm at wide open throttle.  Turns out I had leaking throttle shafts, and
when I set the mixture at idle so the car would run right, it was too lean at
speed.  So, if you run down all other possibilities, and can't find the
problem, Z-Therapy can solve it for you for about $700 and you'll never have
to worry about it again.  (I was able to but new throttle bodies back in the
day for about $150 apiece, so that's the route I went.  If I needed SUs
rebuilt today, I'd use Z-Therapy.) 

Oil in the carburetors should be confined
to the center dashpot tubes.  It's there to slow the piston opening when the
throttle is suddenly opened fully at low rpm.  Otherwise the car will stumble.
 These are variable venturi carburetors without accelerator pumps.  As one of
the other respondents said, very easy to work on once you understand how they
operate -- and eliminate throttle shaft leakage.

Gary
________________________________
 From: Chris Collett <cccracing at gmail.com>
To: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net 
Sent: Sunday, February 23, 2014 8:49 AM
Subject: [Roadsters] Not a very interesting topic so far today, but I'm new so
let's  try this: dieseling out
 

New to Roadsters, about a week now, but I
have a 1969 2000  65,000 original
miles stored for last 20 years, but got it
running.  my question is
over-run after I shut off the engine (diesels out)
until I put it in gear
and kill it that way.  anyone else have this problem. 
happened before and
after I pulled the smog and plugged the head holes.  also,
i had to mess
with the distributor springs to get them to do anything.  now I
have about
34 degrees total advance and it drops down to zero at idle with the
vac adv
removed. Also, plugs looked perfect, tan powdery with no signs of any
oil /
carbon.


If this is the right bunch of guys, my next problem is the
engine stumble
off idle when I hit the accelerator pedal.  I often have to use
the choke
to get the revs up.  and later.... well...... Oil in the carburetor.
That's weird.  Always been a holley, edelbrock, carter, weber carb guy.
We
usually put the oil in the crankcase!  :O
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