[Roadsters] Clutch pedal bite point adjustment

[Paul Courson]

There might be some room to move the friction point by adjusting the
actuating fork at the slave cylinder. I seem to recall that if there's too
much space before the fork (or tang, also called) starts to apply pressure
to the slave piston, the pedal's action stays closer to the floor.
Conversely, if the adjusting nuts place it too tight, the pedal action
remains up high like you're reporting.

There's a further risk under your conditions of never fully releasing the
clutch, so it's worth your time to move the lockdown point of the main nut
(with the curved side that rests in the tang) and its locknut, and see if
that relocates the action.

Paul/Annapolis, Md.

On 4 Apr 2017 12:11 a.m., "rwm--- via Datsun-roadsters" <
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Just replaced clutch master, slave, flexible line, return springs, due to
> deterioration, leaks and fluid contamination. Hardware is Nissan OEM.
>
>
>
> The clutch pedal that since 1980 released and bit in the last/bottom
> quarter of clutch pedal travel now releases and bites in the first/top
> quarter.
>
>
>
> How do I adjust the bite point back to what I am accustomed?
>
>
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Bob Mann, ’68 2000 Solex
>
>
>
> Sent from my Windows 10 phone
>
>
>
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