[Fot] Ignitionl issues

[WILLIAM TOBIN]

  Sounds like the coil is energized  whenever the switch is closed, even
when the ignition is not on. Why not wire it through an ignition switch? If
you race it, why not wire it through a low oil pressure cut out switch? May
save the engine in case of oil failure.  Also, do you use a resistor in line
with the coil? You may be running too much current through the coil.
  An old rule of thumb that I heard: whatever the ground is, say neg, that's
the post of the coil that goes to the dist.
  Lot of good coils out there, Bosch, MSD, etc.
  The timing light thing is strange. Try powering it right off the battery;
use long jumper wires if necessary. Sounds like you may have a wiring
gremlin. Ground problem?
  Good luck, Bill ----- Original Message -----
  From: "Greg & Alison Blake" <ablake2 at austin.rr.com>
  To: <fot at autox.team.net>
  Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 12:43 AM
  Subject: [Fot] Ignitionl issues


  > I have my coil wired directly to a hot post that is connected to the
  > battery side of my cut-off switch.  In other words, when the switch is
  > closed, the + side of the coil is directly connected to the positive
  > side of the battery.  The other side of the coil is connected to my
  > Mallory dual point.
  >
  > I noticed tonight that my coil was very hot and leaking oil out of the
  > top when I had the battery charger attached to the battery.
  >
  > Do I have my coil wired incorrectly?
  >
  > I will obviously be replacing that coil now so any suggestions for a
  > part number on a replacement type (Bosch or others) from a national
  > chain would be appreciated.
  >
  > Another strange problem, timing lights will not work on my car.  The
  > ones I have tried work on other TRs, but not mine.  Anyone know what
  > could cause an inductive timing light not to pick up a signal?  I
  > believe the wires are 8mm.
  >
  > Thanks,
  >
  > Greg
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