[Fot] Starter problem / Clutch issue

[Tylerpthompson at yahoo.com]

The heat wrap does work, but my neighbor told me to take it off.  He has an
early '70s Cuda that he races in the Pikes Peak Hill Climb every year.  He
actually cooked a set of headers with the heat wrap on. I didn't believe until
one evening I had the TR4 running and could see a bright red glow at the
collector.

I had my header ceramic coated.  Cost about $150 by a shop in Wheat Ridge, CO.
Looks great and vastly reduced the heat up front and eliminates rust.  Coating
is inside and out.  No commercial interest.

Ty



Tyler

Sent from my iPad
(Please excuse any errors or typos)

On Apr 11, 2012, at 1:03 PM, Edward Dunn <edunn at qualityfueltrailers.com>
wrote:

> First, is there a search function in the archives, etc? I hate asking a
> question that may have already been answered.
>
> On my GT6, the hi-torque starter is intermittent, and it seems to be heat
> related but not always...  I had it rebuilt by a reputable auto electric
shop,
> but no improvement. Checked ground, solenoid, etc. I was told by a FOT
racer
> that the hi-torque starters are seldom properly rebuilt, and should be
simply
> replaced instead of rebuilt.
>
> Mr. Kastner told me they used to have a bucket of water standing by in the
pit
> to pour on the starter so it would work.  The car has a TSI header, which
> really wraps around the starter bringing plenty of heat to it. Ted suggested
I
> wrap the header, which I will do. Anyone use the starter insulating wraps
as
> seen on Jeg's etc? Any other ideas on keeping the starter functioning?
>
> In addition, the clutch has trouble engaging when hot.  The clutch line is
> pretty close to the header as well, and I suspect it's getting too hot?
> Insulate the clutch line?  I just rebuilt the clutch master & slave, and am
> using Castrol LMA fluid. What with the roll cage, it's real interesting
> getting down in there to bleed.
>
> Apologies if these questions are too simplistic, but oh well...
>
> Ed
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