[Fot] Fwd: Never be beaten by equipment

[davehogye]

I'm forwarding these message for Greg. He has not been able to communicate through the FoT autox.team.net address. 


Dave H. 

----- Forwarded Message -----
From: "Greg Solow" <Gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com> 
To: "davehogye" <dlhogye at comcast.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 3:17:04 PM 
Subject: Fw: [Fot] Never be beaten by equipment 


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Solow" <gregmogdoc at surfnetusa.com> 
To: "Robert Blake" <rblake36 at yahoo.com>; <fot at autox.team.net>; 
<GREGMOGdoc at surfnetusa.com> 
Cc: "Blake Gregory" <greg.blake at atkinsglobal.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2012 9:41 AM 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Never be beaten by equipment 


> Concerning water flow and overheating. On all race engines we modify the 
> block to improve water flow to the rear of the block. 1. Mount up the 
> water pump housing onto the front of the block. with the liners removed, 
> grind the rectangular opening through which all the water passes into the 
> block. treat it like a head port. Enlarge the hole to match the gasket 
> opening, smooth the transition into the block, open the hole to promote 
> water flow down the right side of the water passage. 2. Round off and 
> reduce the projections into the water jacket under the long cylinder head 
> studs without removing to much material. 3. open up the rectangular 
> opening in the bulkhead of the block between cylinder #2 &3. Round off the 
> edges of this hole in a way to promote flow the front to the rear of the 
> block. At the rear of the block, grind open the top rear to match the 
> triangular water holes in the bottom rear of the head. Modify the head 
> gasket to match. So the water transfer passages from the block the to head 
> are both triangular, matching, and at least as large as the head casting 
> will allow without getting to close to the cylinder sealing ring. 4. 
> Lastly, lay the head gasket on the top of the block. There are 4 small 
> round water holes on the left side under the spark plugs. Mark these hole 
> on the top of the block and on the top of the liners. mark the liners so 
> they can be reinstalled in the EXACTLY SAME POSITION each time they have 
> been removed. Now grind a channel that is 1/2 round at the top, about 2 
> inches long, getting wider toward the bottom straight down the inside of 
> the water jacket of the block so that you have created a channel that 
> leads water up into the round hole in the gasket and then into the passage 
> under each of the 4 spark plugs. You can beneficially do the same thing on 
> the matching side of each liner so there will be a fully round hole 
> feeding water to the under side of each spark plug. 
> We have not found it necessary to restrict any of the passages or vent 
> coolant out of the heater outlet on the head. 
> We also slow the water pump down by about 30% for engines that are 
> normally run at speeds between 4,000 and 7,000 as we believe the pump was 
> designed to operate optimally at around 2500 rpm in a Vanguard Saloon car. 
> We have seen a lot of air bubble formation in engines run on the dyno at 
> speeds over 4,000 rpm. Reducing the water pump speed 30% resulted in a 
> dramatic reduction in these bubbles, and an increase in power at 6,000 rpm 
> of about 6% on a "full race" engine. 
> Lots of oil and the cylinder walls, proper skirt clearance, good 
> coolant flow from front to rear in the block, a good radiator properly 
> ducted and sealed to the front of the car should cure the scuffing and 
> overheating issues. 
> 
> Greg Solow 
> 
> The Engine Room 
> 
> Santa Cruz, Ca 
> 
> 831 429-1800