[Fot] Spark Plugs

[Bill Babcock]

You also can’t read a plug without a clean chop, which few people ever bother with or have any idea how to do. It’s a lot more important than starting with a clean plug. I don’t doubt that there’s a difference in horsepower in having a plug so hot that its blistering or pre-igniting, or so cold that it’s fouling. But there’s nothing you can learn on a dyno about what plug to use. If you’re smart about it, you run a very cold plug on a dyno.  And you mostly read plugs to get jetting right, not to choose the heat range.  I consider myself to be pretty good at reading plugs, I pestered Bobby Strahlman long enough and hard enough to learn most of what he was willing to tell me. It’s a bigger deal for motorcycles, in the same way that jetting carbs is a bigger deal. If you’ve only got one or two cylinders, and you’ve only got 30 horsepower, you better get them all. 


On Apr 23, 2015, at 5:39 PM, Kas Kastner <kaskastner at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> The manner of having the right heat range can mean more than a little bit of power. It does mater.  Most plugs I look at for the guys are generally to hot for the circumstances. Learn about this stuff.  Clean the plugs, keep a little sand blast cleaner handy and never run a session without a few ( one or two CLEAN) plugs in the engine. You cannot read a dirty plug from running a session before. Don't be LAZY.
> 
> Never be beaten by equipment.
> 
> 
> On Thu, Apr 23, 2015 at 5:11 PM, Bill Babcock via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> Why would you want to play with heat range on a dyno? There’s no horsepower difference. The only function of heat range is to have the porcelain at the right temperature to burn off deposits and not overheat to the point that the plug electrode melts or the porcelain blisters. Or at an extreme that the spark plug starts acting like a glow plug. Some tracks that are very tight or that have elevation changes might dictate a change to a hotter plug, or one with long open straights might warrant a colder one, but once you’re in the ballpark you shouldn’t have to do much. 
> 
>> On Apr 23, 2015, at 8:51 AM, Robert M. Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> I've been using Accel 114's for the last ten or 15 years, they seem to work fine. I have a collection of different temp range plugs from Accel all the way from 113 through 117. I've never taken the time to play on the dyno to see if there's any difference changing heat range. I know = "my bad". I've never had a plug fail despite the amount of internet detritus regarding the quality of this brand.
>> 
>> In any case I was thinking about switching to NGK. My TR6 motor is 12:1, Webers, cam (street duration Isky Z19), header, etc. Ignition is Mallory / Pertronix.
>> 
>> Would the NGK BP6ES or BP7ES be a better choice?
>> 
>> Regards,
>> rml
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
>> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
>> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
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> 
> Bill Babcock
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> Editor: Ponostyle
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Bill Babcock
Bill at ponostyle.com
Editor: Ponostyle
Celebrating Water

Editor: Xtreme Geezer
Fitness and Fun After Forty
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