[Fot] Spark Plugs

[Barr, Scott]

OK, so here’s the stupid question of the day – what is it that makes a hot plug “hotter” or a cold plug “colder”.  Is a “colder” plug more resistant to absorbing heat?  And if so, why?

Scott (B.)

From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Babcock via Fot
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2015 7:11 PM
To: Robert M. Lang
Cc: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Spark Plugs

Why would you want to play with heat range on a dyno? There’s no horsepower difference. The only function of heat range is to have the porcelain at the right temperature to burn off deposits and not overheat to the point that the plug electrode melts or the porcelain blisters. Or at an extreme that the spark plug starts acting like a glow plug. Some tracks that are very tight or that have elevation changes might dictate a change to a hotter plug, or one with long open straights might warrant a colder one, but once you’re in the ballpark you shouldn’t have to do much.

On Apr 23, 2015, at 8:51 AM, Robert M. Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Hi,

I've been using Accel 114's for the last ten or 15 years, they seem to work fine. I have a collection of different temp range plugs from Accel all the way from 113 through 117. I've never taken the time to play on the dyno to see if there's any difference changing heat range. I know = "my bad". I've never had a plug fail despite the amount of internet detritus regarding the quality of this brand.

In any case I was thinking about switching to NGK. My TR6 motor is 12:1, Webers, cam (street duration Isky Z19), header, etc. Ignition is Mallory / Pertronix.

Would the NGK BP6ES or BP7ES be a better choice?

Regards,
rml
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Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
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