[Fot] Weber tuning help please

Mon May 4 09:53:03 MDT 2015

Thanks for the link Tony. I guess what I take away from this is when I introduce a new part to the car make sure the gaskets actually work. 
I always trim inside diameters to the head to remove any blockage. Since the remflex gaskets were oversized at the intakes I let 
it get by me, the stock manifold would have covered it.I've never had an intake leak with the stock manifolds or any other type of intake for 
that matter so this one sort of caught me by surprise. Live & learn I guess, I won't make that mistake again. 
Bill nailed the cause right off the bat. I always believe the cars will try to tell you what's going on but it's up to us to interpret the clues 
they give us. Due to a limited understanding of the Webers I was looking more at the carbs as a fault than in my own assembly of the components. 
I was able to pick up some metal core exhaust gasket material at NAPA and am having good success with a hole saw and conical grinding stone chucked 
in the drill press. Now that I know remflex makes their material in sheets I'll make up some spares. 
jim 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com> 
To: "Jim Gray" <toodamnfunky at comcast.net>, "Bill Babcock" <Bill at ponostyle.com> 
Cc: "fot" <fot at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, May 4, 2015 7:15:15 AM 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Weber tuning help please 

I make my own from the remflex material so I can cut the intake holes smaller. 
http://catalog.remflex.com/COLLECTOR_CONNECTOR_Flange_Exhaust_Gasket_p/gs16024.htm 

Good sharp knife cuts it OK. 

Tony 

At 04:52 PM 5/3/2015, Jim Gray via Fot wrote: 

Bill, 
You were right but I don’t have a good solution at the moment. Only # 3 reacted to the carb cleaner and that suprises me a bit. 
I have the thick remflex gaskets in there. One side of the intake manifold on # 3 had barely any contact with the gasket. 
The remflex and the Moss gaskets have 1-11/16” inside diameter openings at the intakes. My cannon manifolds are 1-7/16” 
and the cannon’s don’t have a lot of meat for bearing surface around the lower area’s around 5 o’clock and 7 o’clock. 
As best I can tell though it was actually leaking on # 3 at 3 o’clock right next to the clamp bolt. 
I could actually look next to the clamp bolt and see where the gap was. 
I need to either find different gaskets with a smaller ID or make my own. 
Have you, or anybody had success at making their own intake/exhaust gaskets from regular gasket material ? 
jim 

From: Bill Babcock [ mailto:Bill at ponostyle.com ] 
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2015 1:21 PM 
To: Jim Gray 
Cc: fot at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Fot] Weber tuning help please 

Sounds like an air leak somewhere. Perhaps it gets overcome at full throttle or is worsened at those specific RPMs because of harmonics in the vibration of the carb. Might be a crack or flaw in the carb, but more likely it’s in the mounting, either O rings or some other flaw. They can be hard to detect and locate. You could use the carb cleaner methodspray a little at each joint or suspect area and listen for changes in engine sound. I’ve used the ultrasonic detector I use for finding leaks in surfboards to some effect, a leak sounds like a calliope, but there’s a lot of other noise to sort it from. 

<blockquote>
On May 3, 2015, at 8:40 AM, Jim Gray via Fot < fot at autox.team.net > wrote: 

</blockquote>

I just installed my webers and I’m running into something not covered in anything I’ve read so far. 
At cruise speed which I do on the street, 2500  -3000 RPM my exhaust gas temps on # 4  are 100 plus degrees 
over # 1and will climb to 1400 if I stay at that throttle setting. Under wide open throttle they equalize and seem 
to settle in at about 1300. 
However, I think this may be symptomatic of my other issue. When I’m tuning the idle air screws, open them up until 
it starts to miss & so on, I can get a predictable stumble from three out of the four screws. 
The screw on # 3 has no effect on the idle no matter how far I run it in or out. 
Also , when I put my syncrometers on #’s 3 and 4 they are significantly different. 
I’m not going to get my dyno tune before the first race in two weeks so I’m left to figure it out on my own for now. 
Any help would be greatly appreciated, 
Jim g 

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