[Fot] GT6'rs

Mon Jan 22 08:28:46 MST 2018

I have removed the pan and replaced rod bearings at the track.  Some of the bolts are almost impossible to reach, around the front corners were the worst.  To remove the pan the engine must be jacked up, motormounts loose and oil pump pickup tube must be removed.  I cut down a big wrench, 1 1/8: maybe, to reach inside the loosened pan and unscrew the tube.  It's cramped, messy and dangerous in my opinion but it can  be done in an emergency.  At home, I'd pull the engine...

-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Schirano via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>; Larry Young <cartravel at yahoo.com>
Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jan 21, 2018 11:28 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6'rs

Thanks everyone so far, my thoughts and tentative plans:

weld another bung on the valve cover for venting, was a suspect problem
leak down, good idea, motor build isn't that old, but never know
bell housing clearance, that's a SOB when I R&R the engine to begin with. if I do a lift I will remove the throttle linkage, that will give me at last a little room. I think I have a cable linkage in a box of spares that I have been wanting to install.
pan dimpling, that pan just went on a year ago and I angle ground dressed it, so should have been pretty good.
sealing block, agreed, next time that motor is out it get's a steel one. 

Thanks guys

Brian

26A GT6+, 28 TR6
Brian Schirano
585-305-0349 Cell 
BSchirano at yahoo.com

                        On Sunday, January 21, 2018, 6:50:02 PM GMT+1, Larry Young <cartravel at yahoo.com> wrote:                    

I have found that leaks are often caused by a PO-gorilla has over tightened and made a dimple at the holes. You can see this clearly with a belt sander. I hammer the dimples down until the belt sander contacts everywhere. This applies to front covers and pans.
 - Larry

Sent by big thumbs on tiny screen. 

On Jan 21, 2018, at 10:23 AM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

I’ve never done it.  Certainly not without lifting the engine somewhat, and by the time you undo the water hoses, engine mounts, etc, you are halfway to pulling it.  If you try, you might want to look at how much of a gap there is between the top of the bellhousing and the firewall, as this could inhibit the lift.

Venting - I ended up with a 1” and a 1/2” hose on the valve cover and this cured most of the blow-by issues at the rear seal, etc.  The 1/2” hose was not enough, so now there are two.  Also tried a vent off the fuel pump mounting before the valve cover vents, but the pump cam slung so much oil in this direction that it didn’t work.

If you are getting oil leaks at the front, that fun sealing block may be the issue.

On Jan 21, 2018, at 8:55 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

OK GT6 guys...

Question... is it possible to pull the pan and change my gasket without pulling the engine? Looks pretty tight and I expect the oil pump pick up snorkel will be the problem.
Is a partial lift possible to do this?

It looks like it's pushing oil out of the pan, it's definitely not the timing chain cover (that's what I thought last year and changed that). 

2nd question, if it's pushing oil out the front of the pan (or anywhere from pan I suppose), I'm thinking I need more crankcase vent? and maybe get around this problem short term that way?

Let me know, making garage work plans/list of things to do, for when winter breaks early March

Thanks
Brian

26A GT6+, 28 TR6
Brian Schirano
585-305-0349 Cell 
BSchirano at yahoo.com

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