From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Fri Nov 1 05:16:52 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 12:16:52 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 In-Reply-To: <321072713.2631548.1572560173031@mail.yahoo.com> References: <4F17362B-53A2-410B-943E-CC756DE02222@me.com> <2070172059.354903.1572551433986@myemail.cox.net> <321072713.2631548.1572560173031@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1176759451.142358840.1572607012964.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> For a TR6 engine, I used Isky valve springs VWE005SP116 With 320lbs/in rate (5.72kgs/mm). With an installed height of 33.8mm and full open height of 21.3mm, seat pressure is 34kgs (about 75 lbs) and 105kgs (230lbs) at full lift. So lift is 12.5mm/0.49in and then the seat pressure is already rather low. Coil bind height of these springs is about 18mm so a bit more lift is possible. It there is enough material thickness, the seats for the springs can be reamed out to get the necessary clearance between the windings. Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: spitlist at cox.net, "Scott Janzen" , "fot" Verzonden: Donderdag 31 oktober 2019 23:16:13 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 Try British Frame and Engine. They are not as stiff as the Isky Springs, but can tolerate more lift. Be sure you have adequate seat pressure as well as sufficient pressure at full lift, per your cam specs. These work well with the Tilden 298 cam from Ken Knight. -----Original Message----- From: JOE CURRY via Fot To: Scott Janzen ; Scott Janzen via Fot Sent: Thu, Oct 31, 2019 4:19 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 I bought my Isky dual spring set through Ted Schumacher to match his cam that he also sold me. Works great. Talk to him about the details. On October 31, 2019 at 11:49 AM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: I?m trying to accommodate a high lift cam/rocker combination and the Isky springs (VWE005/SP116) I?ve been using will be right at full bind with this combo. What are you all using - I?m looking for something that can handle about 0.54? of net valve lift. Let me know what spring mfr/part number you are using and I?ll take it from there. Thanks! BQ_BEGIN _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net BQ_END _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Nov 1 11:30:22 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 17:30:22 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 2020 KASTNER CUP SECOND CALL / and some updates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Now that its November I'll give some updating. I have had replies to the email below from 30 drivers. That's a good start. ?. If you are planning on racing at the Kastner Cup next June and have not replied please do so, or if you know any triumph racers that aren't on the internet thingy please reply on their behalf. This will help greatly with planning, both with my working with SVRA and some internal FOT planning. I don't want to leave anybody out. There was some questions regarding staying at the track in your rigs. I spoke to Mid-Ohio this morning and they said staying in your RV in the paddock was not an issue. There was no mention of any additional cost associated with this. RV, van, trailer, whose to judge. ?. There are no electric hookups in our paddock. The track does have a dump station near the false grid area. Also the porta john sucker folks will be cruising the paddocks and will empty your tanks in the paddock if so desired. If you have a long haul home I received permission for us to park in the grass area up toward the gate if you want to spend the night and head out in the morning. We just have to clear the paved paddocks as they have a track rental Monday morning. That might be a fun Sunday night FOT party to wrap up the weekend festivities. Marty ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of marty via Fot Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 9:21 AM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] 2020 KASTNER CUP FIRST CALL / info needed! I was going to wait until after the first of the year to do this but figured that it might be a good idea to start now while people are thinking about it and before your rigs are put away for the winter. I had a meeting earlier in the year with SVRA regarding our paddock spots. We will have our own spot on paved surface. Open trailers will be required to park in the grass .It will be in the upper paddock but will be "concentrated" as the paved paddocks are not all that expansive. If it rains a bunch like it did this year and the track closes off the grass paddocks things will get cozy. SVRA will work with us and I have agreed to provide them with some counts and space requirements in advance. Hopefully this will make things go smoother once we arrive. So, here is what I need from you if you are planning on attending. 1) name, 2) tow vehicle size, 3) trailer size, 4) awning/canopy size, 5) will you be staying at the track in your rig? 6) would you be interested in having our own FOT dinner Friday evening for around $25 a head? This is not a commitment to attend on your part but will make the planning process much easier so if you are just thinking you will be there please reply or email me direct at trmarty at hotmail.com. Info will be used to size our paddock and determine how big of tent we will need to rent. The Friday night dinner is just in the investigation stages but I need to know how many people might be interested. This event is looking to be a pretty big deal so I am hoping to do a bunch of pre-event work with SVRA well in advance so things go smoothly once we arrive. Thanks, Marty Sukey -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Fri Nov 1 19:41:01 2019 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (rkramer56) Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2019 20:41:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 race car for sale Message-ID: <5dbcdeae.1c69fb81.c66de.77a4@mx.google.com> I don't know if anyone gas seen the TR4 race car for sale on Facebook. You can contact the seller at:stevedowningdevelopment at gmail.comSent from my Galaxy Tab? S2 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From awashatko at wi.rr.com Sat Nov 2 14:11:47 2019 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 15:11:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Radiator Message-ID: <0FFF0BBA-07C5-4334-9470-452D22C7D66A@wi.rr.com> FoT?ers I have a TR6 radiator that is in very good condition if anyone is interested. Allen Sent from my iPhone From my71spit13 at yahoo.com Sun Nov 3 07:15:18 2019 From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 14:15:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 102, Issue 271 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1404345986.874510.1572790518184@mail.yahoo.com> If anyone needs more info on the racer TR4, I am in Des Moines and Steve Downing is a friend. Fyi... Shawn Frank The Vintage Triumph Magazine - Editor North American Triumphs (FKA Spitfire & GT6 Magazine) - Owner Des Moines Concours d'Elegance - Recruiting Chair Continued Legacy Photo - Owner Iowa British Car Club FOT/VTR#94692/NASS#746 Drive Away Cancer Iowa - Driver 515-339-4228 '71 Triumph Spitfire MKIV "Gertrude" '72 Triumph GT6 MK3 '65 Triumph TR4A "Johnny" On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 1:00 PM, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote: Send Fot mailing list submissions to ??? fot at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? fot-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? fot-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Fot digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. TR4 race car for sale (rkramer56) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2019 20:41:01 -0500 From: rkramer56 To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] TR4 race car for sale Message-ID: <5dbcdeae.1c69fb81.c66de.77a4 at mx.google.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I don't know if anyone gas seen the TR4 race car for sale on Facebook. You can contact the seller at:stevedowningdevelopment at gmail.comSent from my Galaxy Tab? S2 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot ------------------------------ End of Fot Digest, Vol 102, Issue 271 ************************************* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Sun Nov 3 07:53:22 2019 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 08:53:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 rolling frame needed Message-ID: I showed Marc MaGahee around my TR collection Friday. He is planning on building an Ambro TR4. While I have a couple of complete cars he could use what he really needs is a rolling chassis. It?ll save a salvageable car. There is a TR3 and a 4A IRS rolling chassis with mechanicals for sale right now but not a live axle. Anyone know if a similar TR4, preferably later years? Sent from my iPhone From dlhogye at comcast.net Sun Nov 3 08:30:19 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 07:30:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR4 rolling frame needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1010125570.315746.1572795020219@connect.xfinity.com> I know where there are two TR4 solid axle frames. One is bare and one is rolling. They are pre-4A. They are located is Los Gatos, CA. There is also a fairly complete TR3B. Dave H. 831-234-4928 > On November 3, 2019 at 6:53 AM Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > > I showed Marc MaGahee around my TR collection Friday. He is planning on building an Ambro TR4. While I have a couple of complete cars he could use what he really needs is a rolling chassis. It?ll save a salvageable car. There is a TR3 and a 4A IRS rolling chassis with mechanicals for sale right now but not a live axle. Anyone know if a similar TR4, preferably later years? > > Sent from my iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > From ofracer at gmail.com Mon Nov 4 06:49:01 2019 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 08:49:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] SVRA Watkins Glen NON Reimbursement In-Reply-To: <635108642.808954.1572089744090@mail.yahoo.com> References: <635108642.808954.1572089744090@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I called Kathy last week and was entered for the K Cup, with the WG credit, in less than 5 minutes. thanks mike h On Sat, Oct 26, 2019 at 7:36 AM Rick Parent via Fot wrote: > May I suggest you guys get a hold of Kathy kathy at svra she would be glad > to take care of you and if you feel the need tony at svra.com > > Rick > > On Friday, October 25, 2019, 07:55:36 PM EDT, John Styduhar via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > Brian, thank you for the explanation because I was unable to reach anyone > with SVRA that could provide one. I will wait and see if Tony keeps his > promise. > > On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 3:37 PM Brian Schirano > wrote: > > Interesting coincidence, I just followed up with Tony this morning, > responded almost immediately with "we put a credit on account. Not your > credit card. Checks will not go out until we finished this weekends year > end event at savannah" > > Brian > > On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 3:06 PM John Styduhar via Fot > wrote: > > Did any TR drivers who entered the SVRA event at Watkins Glen and > requested a cash reimbursement from SVRA receive their check yet.? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Mon Nov 4 07:33:28 2019 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 14:33:28 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's Message-ID: <152090bde0ad467f8eb342d0159fb287@dieselperformanceparts.com> Morning Triumph Crazies, Can ambone tell me the ID dimension of the crankshaft pilot busing hole for an early 1296CC Spitfire crankshaft?? I am trying to get some pilot bearings machined to fit a transmission swap and need the OD of the crankshaft pilot bearing as well as the depth if anyone has that It would be HUGLY appreciated. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Mon Nov 4 07:59:20 2019 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 14:59:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's In-Reply-To: <89749706-75d1-b002-3af5-b8bdaf54a2de@bright.net> References: <152090bde0ad467f8eb342d0159fb287@dieselperformanceparts.com> <89749706-75d1-b002-3af5-b8bdaf54a2de@bright.net> Message-ID: Yep I was sort of sure on that but I don't have any around to measure. Thanks though. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: Ted Schumacher [mailto:tedtsimx at bright.net] Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 8:53 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's Mark. the dimensions are all the same - 1147 through 1500 so if you have any of those around, there is your answer. Ted On 11/4/2019 9:33 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Morning Triumph Crazies, Can ambone tell me the ID dimension of the crankshaft pilot busing hole for an early 1296CC Spitfire crankshaft?? I am trying to get some pilot bearings machined to fit a transmission swap and need the OD of the crankshaft pilot bearing as well as the depth if anyone has that It would be HUGLY appreciated. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx at bright.net -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13119 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 10:04:05 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:04:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's References: <458281986.605196.1572887046344.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <458281986.605196.1572887046344@mail.yahoo.com> The rear chunks make cool table lamp bases.I measured the one here in my office and the hole is ~.750 diameter, and ~1.125 deep.I have a new bush, it measures .752 OD & 1.125 L.Can't help w/exact dimension of the bore diameter. HTHGlen -----Original Message----- From: DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot To: fot-bounces at autox.team.net ; fot at autox.team.net ; DPPI - Mark Craig Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 9:38 am Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's <!-- #yiv6984443301 _filtered #yiv6984443301 {font-family:"Cambria Math";panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6984443301 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6984443301 {font-family:Verdana;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} #yiv6984443301 #yiv6984443301 p.yiv6984443301MsoNormal, #yiv6984443301 li.yiv6984443301MsoNormal, #yiv6984443301 div.yiv6984443301MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} #yiv6984443301 a:link, #yiv6984443301 span.yiv6984443301MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv6984443301 a:visited, #yiv6984443301 span.yiv6984443301MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv6984443301 span.yiv6984443301EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv6984443301 .yiv6984443301MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered #yiv6984443301 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #yiv6984443301 div.yiv6984443301WordSection1 {} -->Morning Triumph Crazies, ? Can ambone tell me the ID dimension of the crankshaft pilot busing hole for an early 1296CC Spitfire crankshaft?? I am trying to get some pilot bearings machined to fit a transmission swap and need the OD of the crankshaft pilot bearing as well as the depth if anyone has that It would be HUGLY appreciated. ? | | ? | Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com ? | ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: not available URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Mon Nov 4 10:21:20 2019 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:21:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's In-Reply-To: <458281986.605196.1572887046344@mail.yahoo.com> References: <458281986.605196.1572887046344.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <458281986.605196.1572887046344@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <46883eec07ff4d32bf72afc4db23f4ef@dieselperformanceparts.com> Glen you be da man thanks!!!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: fubog1 [mailto:fubog1 at aol.com] Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 11:04 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig ; fot-bounces at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's The rear chunks make cool table lamp bases. I measured the one here in my office and the hole is ~.750 diameter, and ~1.125 deep.I have a new bush, it measures .752 OD & 1.125 L. Can't help w/exact dimension of the bore diameter. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot > To: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >; fot at autox.team.net >; DPPI - Mark Craig > Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 9:38 am Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's Morning Triumph Crazies, Can ambone tell me the ID dimension of the crankshaft pilot busing hole for an early 1296CC Spitfire crankshaft?? I am trying to get some pilot bearings machined to fit a transmission swap and need the OD of the crankshaft pilot bearing as well as the depth if anyone has that It would be HUGLY appreciated. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Mon Nov 4 10:30:18 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:30:18 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Looking for some GT6 rear wishbones Message-ID: Anybody have some GT6 rear wishbones they'd like to sell? I am missing a set for the GT6 racer. Scott (B.) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Nov 4 10:32:28 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:32:28 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup Message-ID: It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again. Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon Nov 4 11:13:58 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 11:13:58 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I wish that I were attending as a driver and not just a speck tater.? Not making much progress on getting Killer put back together.? Sigh. mjb. From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 13:38:03 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 20:38:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera.He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup #yiv5513189883 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also? be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again.? Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Nov 4 13:40:57 2019 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 20:40:57 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup In-Reply-To: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <539B476F-16C4-4E12-9859-75651869A18D@mhc-law.com> Way over my head! Sent from my iPhone On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: ? Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera. He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again. Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Nov 4 13:41:30 2019 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 14:41:30 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup In-Reply-To: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 2:38 PM fubog1 via Fot wrote: ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! > > 10-4, Chief. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Nov 4 13:43:52 2019 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 15:43:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup In-Reply-To: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: ooh, are we having valve cover races? Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera. He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again. Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 13:56:24 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 20:56:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup Sir Stan Part In-Reply-To: <751423007.702489.1572900752651@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> <751423007.702489.1572900752651@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1826488400.686427.1572900984736@mail.yahoo.com> Stan has been known to take on any & all challengers but remains undefeated, aside from a few questionable races with JK Jacksons electric machine...Rules?No steenkin' rules, just has to be based on a TR valve cover.Glen Link to a short video if it goes through- https://vimeo.com/210488591 the convenient link -----Original Message----- From: Scott Janzen via Fot To: fubog1 Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 3:44 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup ooh, are we having valve cover races? ?Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera.He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup #yiv6488750140 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also? be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again.? Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 13:56:24 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 20:56:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup Sir Stan Part In-Reply-To: <751423007.702489.1572900752651@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> <751423007.702489.1572900752651@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1826488400.686427.1572900984736@mail.yahoo.com> Stan has been known to take on any & all challengers but remains undefeated, aside from a few questionable races with JK Jacksons electric machine...Rules?No steenkin' rules, just has to be based on a TR valve cover.Glen Link to a short video if it goes through- https://vimeo.com/210488591 the convenient link -----Original Message----- From: Scott Janzen via Fot To: fubog1 Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 3:44 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup ooh, are we having valve cover races? ?Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera.He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup #yiv6488750140 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also? be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again.? Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at linneyweb.com Mon Nov 4 14:38:02 2019 From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 13:38:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] 6 Italias video Message-ID: <292FC9CE-1E22-4C42-A500-A28BA9713C26@linneyweb.com> If a TR3 wasn?t a TR3, what could it be? Salvatore Ruffino asked that question some years before the TR4 came along, and the Italia, by Michelotti, was his answer. My latest film tells the story of 6 of the 330 that were ultimately produced by Vignale. They gathered together at Concorso Italiano during Monterey Car Week, and I was very generously helped by the owners to make this film.. I hope you it! -john https://youtu.be/oTH3lc7eJM0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Nov 4 14:44:23 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:44:23 +0000 Subject: [Fot] FOT valve cover racing In-Reply-To: References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: If somebody wants to chair this, it would be fun. Just keep me in the loop please. Marty ________________________________ From: Scott Janzen Sent: Monday, November 4, 2019 3:43 PM To: fubog1 Cc: trmarty at hotmail.com ; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup ooh, are we having valve cover races? Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot > wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera. He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot > To: FOT > Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again. Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 15:13:59 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 22:13:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] FOT valve cover racing In-Reply-To: References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <391171675.708272.1572905639850@mail.yahoo.com> I'm JAFO... but I am in charge of handling scheduling for "Thunderpower".The only confusion would be those run on a course, or like "Thunder", it's straight line only...Glen -----Original Message----- From: marty To: Scott Janzen ; fubog1 Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 4:44 pm Subject: FOT valve cover racing #yiv1631411795 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}If somebody wants to chair this, it would be fun. Just keep me in the loop please. Marty From: Scott Janzen Sent: Monday, November 4, 2019 3:43 PM To: fubog1 Cc: trmarty at hotmail.com ; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup?ooh, are we having valve cover races? ?Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now hasan automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera.He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also? be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again.? Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Mon Nov 4 17:20:26 2019 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 19:20:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] SVRA Watkins Glen NON Reimbursement In-Reply-To: References: <635108642.808954.1572089744090@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Kathy Swinford also called me today and reconciled my SVRA account and the WG reimbursement stuff so I feel better now. On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 8:49 AM Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > I called Kathy last week and was entered for the K Cup, with the WG > credit, in less than 5 minutes. > > thanks > mike h > > On Sat, Oct 26, 2019 at 7:36 AM Rick Parent via Fot > wrote: > >> May I suggest you guys get a hold of Kathy kathy at svra she would be glad >> to take care of you and if you feel the need tony at svra.com >> >> Rick >> >> On Friday, October 25, 2019, 07:55:36 PM EDT, John Styduhar via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> >> Brian, thank you for the explanation because I was unable to reach anyone >> with SVRA that could provide one. I will wait and see if Tony keeps his >> promise. >> >> On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 3:37 PM Brian Schirano >> wrote: >> >> Interesting coincidence, I just followed up with Tony this morning, >> responded almost immediately with "we put a credit on account. Not your >> credit card. Checks will not go out until we finished this weekends year >> end event at savannah" >> >> Brian >> >> On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 3:06 PM John Styduhar via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Did any TR drivers who entered the SVRA event at Watkins Glen and >> requested a cash reimbursement from SVRA receive their check yet.? >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1959triumphtr3a at gmail.com Mon Nov 4 18:22:31 2019 From: 1959triumphtr3a at gmail.com (Ken Gano) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 19:22:31 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 6 Italias video In-Reply-To: <292FC9CE-1E22-4C42-A500-A28BA9713C26@linneyweb.com> References: <292FC9CE-1E22-4C42-A500-A28BA9713C26@linneyweb.com> Message-ID: <77AC91D4-273C-4A82-A131-203F550B16D9@gmail.com> Good stuff. Thanks for sharing. Ken Gano Sent from my iPad > On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:48 PM, John Linney via Fot wrote: > > ?If a TR3 wasn?t a TR3, what could it be? Salvatore Ruffino asked that question some years before the TR4 came along, and the Italia, by Michelotti, was his answer. My latest film tells the story of 6 of the 330 that were ultimately produced by Vignale. They gathered together at Concorso Italiano during Monterey Car Week, and I was very generously helped by the owners to make this film.. > > I hope you it! > > -john > > https://youtu.be/oTH3lc7eJM0 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/1959triumphtr3a at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 5 08:45:24 2019 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 15:45:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I will have no need in the future. By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank trigger for my primary ignition system.? I also tried to have a reliable back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas Points.? But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul Trapp, who I'm sure some of you know.? He was a real genius with all kinds of engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times).? He mentioned that he had used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he had worked on.? The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other Datsun/Nissan small sedans.? While we were on the phone, he had me get a stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper.? He had the Datsun distributor.? We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two distributors, and they were nearly identical.? The diameter of the shaft that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was required to get the correct height for the Triumph. >From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger.? The only modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height.? An easy conversion.? Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the dual system. When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a spare lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun distributor, and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box.? I used a stock Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time.? Some people us an MSD, etc.? Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in the attached pictures. I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up specifically for me.? So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let me know, and you can have it.? I will even pay the shipping (to the lower 48).? I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Distributor Lead Wire.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1960331 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Distributor wire connector.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1628030 bytes Desc: not available URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Tue Nov 5 08:59:21 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 09:59:21 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away Message-ID: I?d try it. Thanks. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Nov 5, 2019, at 9:55 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Nov 5 09:05:53 2019 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 10:05:53 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Blackhawk Farms race videos Message-ID: Here are videos from my last race weekend from October 13.? The are in order by level of interest / action (best first). Best race (race 3, Feature) - good battling with Sean Alexander, passing and re-passing until his fuel pump gives up the ghost late in the race: https://youtu.be/nT1liwCUO1o Nearly as good (race 2, Sprint), less passing but still thrilling - again battling with Sean, again he drops out due to the fuel pump (which they didn't realize what the problem was since it started working again): https://youtu.be/YlFH5wMxAgk Decent race, first few laps are the best, close racing but not much passing after the first few laps - (race 1, Heat): https://youtu.be/EBbyJii60HM And lastly, the pursuit race that ended the weekend.? The passing is of slower cars or by faster cars, so no real "battling", just driving fast: https://youtu.be/9fSoj93yll8 Regards, Tony Drews From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 5 09:27:31 2019 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 16:27:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1332127734.1645794.1572971251814@mail.yahoo.com> I don't have any heads, but I'll bet someone on the FOT list knows where there is one. Jack On Tuesday, November 5, 2019, 11:16:21 AM EST, Alan Berry wrote: Need a TR4 head for my race car. Any thoughts? Thanks,? Alan #41 TR4A On Tue, Nov 5, 2019, 7:57 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I will have no need in the future. By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank trigger for my primary ignition system.? I also tried to have a reliable back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas Points.? But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul Trapp, who I'm sure some of you know.? He was a real genius with all kinds of engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times).? He mentioned that he had used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he had worked on.? The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other Datsun/Nissan small sedans.? While we were on the phone, he had me get a stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper.? He had the Datsun distributor.? We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two distributors, and they were nearly identical.? The diameter of the shaft that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was required to get the correct height for the Triumph. >From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger.? The only modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height.? An easy conversion.? Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the dual system. When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a spare lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun distributor, and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box.? I used a stock Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time.? Some people us an MSD, etc.? Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in the attached pictures. I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up specifically for me.? So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let me know, and you can have it.? I will even pay the shipping (to the lower 48).? I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alanb at alanberrydesign.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Nov 5 10:09:45 2019 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 11:09:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Where does one buy twisted pair wire like that? Bob Kramer On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 10:12 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I > will have no need in the future. > > By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank > trigger for my primary ignition system. I also tried to have a reliable > back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas > Points. But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the > back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. > > Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul Trapp, > who I'm sure some of you know. He was a real genius with all kinds of > engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times). He mentioned that he had > used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he had > worked on. The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other > Datsun/Nissan small sedans. While we were on the phone, he had me get a > stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper. He had the Datsun > distributor. We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two > distributors, and they were nearly identical. The diameter of the shaft > that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that > shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was > required to get the correct height for the Triumph. > > From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and > the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger. The only > modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, > and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height. An easy > conversion. Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the > dual system. > > When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a spare > lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun distributor, > and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box. I used a stock > Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time. Some people us an MSD, > etc. Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in the > attached pictures. > > I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up > specifically for me. So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let > me know, and you can have it. I will even pay the shipping (to the lower > 48). I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan > distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bownes at web9.com Tue Nov 5 11:10:29 2019 From: bownes at web9.com (robert bownes) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 12:10:29 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You buy stranded wire, lay out and cut two pieces, chuck one end up in a hand drill, the other end in a vise and twist it. :) On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 11:19 AM Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > Where does one buy twisted pair wire like that? > > > Bob Kramer > > > On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 10:12 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot > wrote: > >> I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I >> will have no need in the future. >> >> By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank >> trigger for my primary ignition system. I also tried to have a reliable >> back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas >> Points. But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the >> back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. >> >> Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul Trapp, >> who I'm sure some of you know. He was a real genius with all kinds of >> engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times). He mentioned that he had >> used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he had >> worked on. The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other >> Datsun/Nissan small sedans. While we were on the phone, he had me get a >> stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper. He had the Datsun >> distributor. We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two >> distributors, and they were nearly identical. The diameter of the shaft >> that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that >> shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was >> required to get the correct height for the Triumph. >> >> From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and >> the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger. The only >> modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, >> and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height. An easy >> conversion. Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the >> dual system. >> >> When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a >> spare lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun >> distributor, and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box. I >> used a stock Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time. Some people >> us an MSD, etc. Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in >> the attached pictures. >> >> I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up >> specifically for me. So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let >> me know, and you can have it. I will even pay the shipping (to the lower >> 48). I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan >> distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. >> >> Jack >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Nov 5 11:20:24 2019 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 12:20:24 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I guess that would do it. But that stuff in Jack's picture looks like it might have some kind of gluing to it based on the cut off end. Bob Kramer On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 12:10 PM robert bownes wrote: > You buy stranded wire, lay out and cut two pieces, chuck one end up in a > hand drill, the other end in a vise and twist it. :) > > > On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 11:19 AM Bob Kramer via Fot > wrote: > >> Where does one buy twisted pair wire like that? >> >> >> Bob Kramer >> >> >> On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 10:12 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I >>> will have no need in the future. >>> >>> By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank >>> trigger for my primary ignition system. I also tried to have a reliable >>> back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas >>> Points. But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the >>> back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. >>> >>> Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul >>> Trapp, who I'm sure some of you know. He was a real genius with all kinds >>> of engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times). He mentioned that he >>> had used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he >>> had worked on. The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other >>> Datsun/Nissan small sedans. While we were on the phone, he had me get a >>> stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper. He had the Datsun >>> distributor. We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two >>> distributors, and they were nearly identical. The diameter of the shaft >>> that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that >>> shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was >>> required to get the correct height for the Triumph. >>> >>> From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and >>> the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger. The only >>> modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, >>> and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height. An easy >>> conversion. Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the >>> dual system. >>> >>> When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a >>> spare lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun >>> distributor, and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box. I >>> used a stock Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time. Some people >>> us an MSD, etc. Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in >>> the attached pictures. >>> >>> I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up >>> specifically for me. So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let >>> me know, and you can have it. I will even pay the shipping (to the lower >>> 48). I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan >>> distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. >>> >>> Jack >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage : >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 6t9gt6 at toast.net Tue Nov 5 15:47:44 2019 From: 6t9gt6 at toast.net (Stephen Jones) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:47:44 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 In-Reply-To: <060b01d59425$71909820$54b1c860$@harrisonautodynamics.com> References: <4F17362B-53A2-410B-943E-CC756DE02222@me.com> <43fc639e3f974f2183e15d77bc6292dd@toast.net> <060b01d59425$71909820$54b1c860$@harrisonautodynamics.com> Message-ID: <9331267c00b64b0fabb449058ffaf05e@toast.net> I will look in the brief case for n invoice/packingg slip. S. ---------------------------------------- From: "Chris Harrison" Sent: Tuesday, November 5, 2019 5:27 PM To: 6t9gt6 at toast.net, 'Scott Janzen Chris Harrison' Subject: RE: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 Stephen, Scott I have been digging and all the info I have on the springs we are using is in the briefcase with the car I thought I had copies of the notes here but I can't find them I think we are using a long single spring conical profile from comp #26113 It depends a lot what installed length window you have to work with Are you using high ratio rockers? What cam? There are a number of retainers and keepers to help get it together Chris From: Stephen Jones [mailto:6t9gt6 at toast.net] Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2019 12:18 PM To: Scott Janzen Chris Harrison Subject: re: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 Hi Scott. Per your request. I am a new FOT member. My engine builder and Crew Chief is Chris Harrison at Harrison Auto Dynamics in Phoenix (Anthem) Arizona. "Chris Harrison" ; He my be able to make some suggestions. S. ---------------------------------------- From: "Scott Janzen via Fot" Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2019 2:04 PM To: "Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Subject: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 I'm trying to accommodate a high lift cam/rocker combination and the Isky springs (VWE005/SP116) I've been using will be right at full bind with this combo. What are you all using - I'm looking for something that can handle about 0.54" of net valve lift. Let me know what spring mfr/part number you are using and I'll take it from there. Thanks! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 5 16:11:34 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:11:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You don?t usually see it without the outer jacket, but I found some at Mouser: https://tinyurl.com/y6fzynqs Likely the other big electronic supply houses (eg Allied, Newark, etc) would have something too, but I only checked Mouser. -- Randall From: Bob Kramer via Fot Sent: Tuesday, November 5, 2019 11:09 AM To: Jack Wheeler Cc: FOT List Subject: Re: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away Where does one buy twisted pair wire like that?? Bob Kramer -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at linneyweb.com Tue Nov 5 18:32:06 2019 From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:32:06 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Classic Motor Films Message-ID: I hope you are enjoying my films - I really enjoy making them. I have a huge favor to ask. Please go to my YouTube channel and hit the Subscribe button. You'll then be the first to know as I publish new projects, and it will help me do more of them in the long run too. Thank you all! Click on this link below? https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxfTA8e4ywKA0FjTIsALy-g -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PastedGraphic-3.tiff Type: image/tiff Size: 1517484 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ronmscott1140 at gmail.com Mon Nov 4 19:28:58 2019 From: ronmscott1140 at gmail.com (Ronald Scott) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:28:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Kastner 2020 Message-ID: Marty, I will be driving the S&S #28 73 TR6 which Brian Schirano and I co-own Ron Scott -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don at dcphotos.com Tue Nov 5 09:38:43 2019 From: don at dcphotos.com (don at dcphotos.com) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 10:38:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] head gasket/block question Message-ID: Amici, I?m just back from a great weekend racing Eagles Canyon with CVAR. Car ran well all weekend till final race and the head gasket blew. On the Spitfire blocks are two holes by #1 and #4 I?ve been told they were use at the foundry and they should be filled in. My question is, other than to facilitate the blowing of head gaskets, why does the head gasket have a hole for them in the first place? Thanks, Don From bschirano1 at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 09:36:24 2019 From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 11:36:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations Message-ID: Hi All I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) Some of you know one or more of these guys. Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. There you go Cheers Brian #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jsukey at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 09:42:29 2019 From: jsukey at gmail.com (Jason Sukey) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 11:42:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Second to all! These are our type of people! Jason Sukey On Wed, Nov 6, 2019, 11:37 AM Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby > nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron > will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually > runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and > crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe > Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to > lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Wed Nov 6 10:31:43 2019 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 11:31:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3A5B815F-08F1-40A5-9836-0477DB5C6DF7@att.net> Second and Welcome! Paul > On Nov 6, 2019, at 10:36 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com ) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com ) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com ) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Wed Nov 6 10:31:43 2019 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 11:31:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3A5B815F-08F1-40A5-9836-0477DB5C6DF7@att.net> Second and Welcome! Paul > On Nov 6, 2019, at 10:36 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com ) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com ) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com ) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 11:39:48 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 12:39:48 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <66117BDD-3D4E-401D-A3C0-D0902B27BD83@gmail.com> Yes! To all three. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Nov 6, 2019, at 10:37 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dbm.spitfire at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 11:42:02 2019 From: dbm.spitfire at gmail.com (Doug Mitchell) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 13:42:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Second on all three. On Wed, Nov 6, 2019, 11:37 AM Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby > nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron > will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually > runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and > crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe > Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to > lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dbm.spitfire at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 6 14:33:42 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 21:33:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1530786059.403764.1573076022036@mail.yahoo.com> Second on all counts - WELCOME. Regards,Bob Lang p.s. Hi Art! On Wednesday, November 6, 2019, 11:37:09 AM EST, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: Hi All I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com)Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com)Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) Some of you know one or more of these guys.?Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per yearArt is a true Triumphvirate, former?racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. There you go CheersBrian#26 Blue/White 69 GT6 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Wed Nov 6 11:10:43 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 13:10:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sounds To me like all 3 deserve seconds! Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 6, 2019, at 11:37 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Wed Nov 6 11:10:43 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 13:10:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sounds To me like all 3 deserve seconds! Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 6, 2019, at 11:37 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 07:00:01 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 14:00:01 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Second, second and second. Welcome to the group. Marty ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Brian Schirano via Fot Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 11:36 AM To: FOT Cc: Art Lipp ; Ronald Scott ; Aaron Schirano Subject: [Fot] Nominations Hi All I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) Some of you know one or more of these guys. Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. There you go Cheers Brian #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 15:25:34 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 22:25:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] rain tires References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. ?For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott114 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Nov 7 15:38:58 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 22:38:58 +0000 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Snow Race April 2019.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 166229 bytes Desc: Snow Race April 2019.jpg URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 16:10:59 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 23:10:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> Wow! Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. ?Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! ?After that, everyone had to have them! Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Barr, Scott To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires #yiv3865640528 #yiv3865640528 -- _filtered #yiv3865640528 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv3865640528 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv3865640528 {panose-1:2 11 5 2 2 2 2 2 2 4;} #yiv3865640528 #yiv3865640528 p.yiv3865640528MsoNormal, #yiv3865640528 li.yiv3865640528MsoNormal, #yiv3865640528 div.yiv3865640528MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;} #yiv3865640528 a:link, #yiv3865640528 span.yiv3865640528MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv3865640528 a:visited, #yiv3865640528 span.yiv3865640528MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv3865640528 p.yiv3865640528msonormal0, #yiv3865640528 li.yiv3865640528msonormal0, #yiv3865640528 div.yiv3865640528msonormal0 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;} #yiv3865640528 span.yiv3865640528EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #yiv3865640528 .yiv3865640528MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered #yiv3865640528 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #yiv3865640528 div.yiv3865640528WordSection1 {} #yiv3865640528 I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it).?? Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. ? The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them.? Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. ? Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow.? See photo attached.? ? From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires ? What's the best rain tire? ? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? ? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. ?For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs ? Your thoughts/experience, please! ? Phil Gott 114 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rocky at spitfire4.com Thu Nov 7 16:38:33 2019 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 17:38:33 -0600 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Last I talked to the Hoosier guy, few years back, they were still making the DirtStocker for the HP cars (Spitfire, etc) but not for the ones on larger wheels. Wore ?em for my last race, 2011 Runoffs, Road America, gained 9 places in the wet. --Rocky From: vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10 PM To: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires Wow! Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Barr, Scott To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: wlEmoticon-smile[1].png Type: image/png Size: 1046 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 17:19:50 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 19:19:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0575C127-CE0A-481D-B877-5CE74556E4DA@aol.com> There is a Hoosier ?Full wet? for Spec Miata that would fit..... Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2019, at 6:38 PM, Rocky Entriken wrote: > > ? > Last I talked to the Hoosier guy, few years back, they were still making the DirtStocker for the HP cars (Spitfire, etc) but not for the ones on larger wheels. > > Wore ?em for my last race, 2011 Runoffs, Road America, gained 9 places in the wet. > > > --Rocky > > From: vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10 PM > To: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com ; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires > > Wow! > > Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! > > I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! > > Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Barr, Scott > To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm > Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires > > I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. > > The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. > > Scott (B.) > PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. > > From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] rain tires > > What's the best rain tire? > > I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? > > I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs > > Your thoughts/experience, please! > > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 17:19:50 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 19:19:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0575C127-CE0A-481D-B877-5CE74556E4DA@aol.com> There is a Hoosier ?Full wet? for Spec Miata that would fit..... Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2019, at 6:38 PM, Rocky Entriken wrote: > > ? > Last I talked to the Hoosier guy, few years back, they were still making the DirtStocker for the HP cars (Spitfire, etc) but not for the ones on larger wheels. > > Wore ?em for my last race, 2011 Runoffs, Road America, gained 9 places in the wet. > > > --Rocky > > From: vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10 PM > To: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com ; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires > > Wow! > > Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! > > I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! > > Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Barr, Scott > To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm > Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires > > I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. > > The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. > > Scott (B.) > PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. > > From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] rain tires > > What's the best rain tire? > > I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? > > I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs > > Your thoughts/experience, please! > > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Thu Nov 7 17:45:45 2019 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 00:45:45 +0000 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me Sent from my iPhone On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot wrote: ? What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Nov 7 18:23:51 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 01:23:51 +0000 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> , <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: These Hoosier rains worked pretty well in the snow, actually. Not bad. Scott Barr McCarty Law LLP (920) 257-2233 ________________________________ From: vfracing at aol.com Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10:59 PM To: Barr, Scott ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires Wow! Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Barr, Scott To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Nov 7 18:24:44 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 01:24:44 +0000 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: Loved 'em. I still have an aging set. Scott Barr McCarty Law LLP (920) 257-2233 ________________________________ From: Rocky Entriken Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:38:33 PM To: vfracing at aol.com ; Barr, Scott ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires Last I talked to the Hoosier guy, few years back, they were still making the DirtStocker for the HP cars (Spitfire, etc) but not for the ones on larger wheels. Wore ?em for my last race, 2011 Runoffs, Road America, gained 9 places in the wet. [Smile] --Rocky From: vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10 PM To: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires Wow! Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Barr, Scott To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A ________________________________ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: wlEmoticon-smile[1].png Type: image/png Size: 1046 bytes Desc: wlEmoticon-smile[1].png URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 18:53:37 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 20:53:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <603D94A1-8FEE-46D7-89EB-7C3000C99FC8@aol.com> Yes, John; the series I normally run (Historic Race Group) allows up to 8 inches, but the 7s fit better given my flares. As we can prepare up to the ?83 rules, SVRA often puts us in the ?N.C.? or Non Conforming category. That way they get their entry fee and we can play, but we don?t take points away from cars that meet SVRA rules. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2019, at 7:45 PM, John H. Hasty wrote: > > ? Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> What's the best rain tire? >> >> I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? >> >> I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs >> >> Your thoughts/experience, please! >> >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 18:53:37 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 20:53:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <603D94A1-8FEE-46D7-89EB-7C3000C99FC8@aol.com> Yes, John; the series I normally run (Historic Race Group) allows up to 8 inches, but the 7s fit better given my flares. As we can prepare up to the ?83 rules, SVRA often puts us in the ?N.C.? or Non Conforming category. That way they get their entry fee and we can play, but we don?t take points away from cars that meet SVRA rules. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2019, at 7:45 PM, John H. Hasty wrote: > > ? Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> What's the best rain tire? >> >> I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? >> >> I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs >> >> Your thoughts/experience, please! >> >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Thu Nov 7 19:17:14 2019 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 02:17:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <603D94A1-8FEE-46D7-89EB-7C3000C99FC8@aol.com> References: <603D94A1-8FEE-46D7-89EB-7C3000C99FC8@aol.com> Message-ID: <1842374684.816484.1573179434228@mail.yahoo.com> The Hoosier H2O tire I believe is DOT approved, and I think would be the best choice. ?Similar to the Spec Miata wet that was mentioned. ? Here?s a link:https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hoosier&tireModel=Radial+Wet+H2O? Talk to you soon!Dave Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Thursday, November 7, 2019, 8:53 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Yes, John; the series I normally run (Historic Race Group) allows up to 8 inches, but the 7s fit better given my flares.As we can prepare up to the ?83 rules, SVRA often puts us in the ?N.C.? or Non Conforming category. ?That way they get their entry fee and we can play, but we don?t take points away from cars that meet SVRA rules.Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 7, 2019, at 7:45 PM, John H. Hasty wrote: ? Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me Sent from my iPhone On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot wrote: ?What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. ?For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott114 TR4A_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Fri Nov 8 05:01:58 2019 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 07:01:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: There's really no equity in vintage racing rules among clubs. That's why it's just for fun. Right??? On Thu, Nov 7, 2019 at 7:45 PM John H. Hasty via Fot wrote: > Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot > wrote: > > ? > What's the best rain tire? > > I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure > rain tires, or something in between? > > I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am > using Hoosier TDRs > > Your thoughts/experience, please! > > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sat Nov 9 13:15:37 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 14:15:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. Message-ID: <7C6C012F-89D5-42F0-9153-7CD77494607D@gmail.com> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From billdentin at aol.com Sat Nov 9 13:40:27 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 20:40:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. References: <6481885.1853801.1573332027460.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6481885.1853801.1573332027460@mail.yahoo.com> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, November 9, 2019,?Joe Alexander via Fot??wrote: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell:? 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sat Nov 9 13:42:31 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 20:42:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. References: <384477868.1815855.1573332151400.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <384477868.1815855.1573332151400@mail.yahoo.com> Holy Balls (Religious Ornaments)! Bill Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, November 9, 2019,?Joe Alexander via Fot??wrote: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell:? 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Sat Nov 9 13:53:06 2019 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 15:53:06 -0500 Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. In-Reply-To: <384477868.1815855.1573332151400@mail.yahoo.com> References: <384477868.1815855.1573332151400.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <384477868.1815855.1573332151400@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Do they come in Brass? Extra Large? mike h On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 3:42 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > Holy Balls (Religious Ornaments)! > > Bill > > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com > > On Saturday, November 9, 2019, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > > > > http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 > > > Joe Alexander > 4505 Donald Dr > Cedar Falls, IA 50613 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sat Nov 9 13:58:45 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 14:58:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <64E38C36-7DB0-4AF0-A939-47E6F0A413A3@gmail.com> Nope. Thanks for asking. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Nov 9, 2019, at 2:53 PM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > ? > Do they come in Brass? > Extra Large? > > mike h > >> On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 3:42 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >> Holy Balls (Religious Ornaments)! >> >> Bill >> >> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail >> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com >> >> On Saturday, November 9, 2019, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: >> >> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 >> >> >> Joe Alexander >> 4505 Donald Dr >> Cedar Falls, IA 50613 >> The-vintage-racer.com >> Gasketinnovations.com >> Cell: 319.464.4711 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mleccese1 at verizon.net Sat Nov 9 14:06:31 2019 From: mleccese1 at verizon.net (mleccese1 at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 21:06:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. References: <1162335979.1866949.1573333591180.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1162335979.1866949.1573333591180@mail.yahoo.com> Should you buy two? On Saturday, November 9, 2019 Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: Do they come in Brass?Extra Large? mike h On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 3:42 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Holy Balls (Religious Ornaments)! Bill Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, November 9, 2019,?Joe Alexander via Fot??wrote: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell:? 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mleccese1 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Nov 10 13:35:04 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 20:35:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2020 KASTNER CUP @ MID-OHIO References: <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... For the Good of the Order, I thought it would be wise to mention some things about the area around MID-OHIO.? It? may be rural, but don't be fooled.? Not unlike Los Angeles and New York rural Ohio has Street Gangs too. ? Currently the most active are the SBFs (or Sun Burnt Farmboys) and their nemesis, the Chinstraps (the Amish Gangstas).? Visitors should be alert that it is not uncommon to see either or both cruising slowly by and throwing Gang signals.? The SBFs have their weird, rolling, three finger wave, and the Chinstraps are always tipping their hats. Lately, authorities think there is trouble brewing, as an SBF spit chew from his whip (a 1964 John Deere) directly onto a pile of horsey poo from a Gangsta's buggy. Now there is even talk of a turf war, just down the highway (over by the sod farm.) Better safe than sorry.? Stay alert when you are in the area. Bill Dentinger -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stutztr4 at gmail.com Sun Nov 10 19:20:25 2019 From: stutztr4 at gmail.com (Bruce Stutzman) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 21:20:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 2020 KASTNER CUP @ MID-OHIO In-Reply-To: <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: So be careful how you dress so you are not mistaken as a gang member. Don't wear bib overalls or don't wear dark blue pants, a light blue shirt with the sleeves rolled up and a straw hat. Bruce On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 3:35 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > Amici... > > For the Good of the Order, I thought it would be wise to mention some > things about the area around MID-OHIO. It may be rural, but don't be > fooled. Not unlike Los Angeles and New York rural Ohio has Street Gangs > too. > > Currently the most active are the SBFs (or Sun Burnt Farmboys) and their > nemesis, the Chinstraps (the Amish Gangstas). Visitors should be alert > that it is not uncommon to see either or both cruising slowly by and > throwing Gang signals. The SBFs have their weird, rolling, three finger > wave, and the Chinstraps are always tipping their hats. > > Lately, authorities think there is trouble brewing, as an SBF spit chew > from his whip (a 1964 John Deere) directly onto a pile of horsey poo from a > Gangsta's buggy. > > Now there is even talk of a turf war, just down the highway (over by the > sod farm.) > > Better safe than sorry. Stay alert when you are in the area. > > Bill Dentinger > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutztr4 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From horizonracing at msn.com Mon Nov 11 12:17:50 2019 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 19:17:50 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale Message-ID: Hi all :-) ? Super HEAVY duty? Dyna 44 that was removed from a Running TR 4 . I believe this was built/ Made by Southwick machine . 3:7 CWP Posi traction 7/16 wheel studs Complete with backing plates / drive shaft / axles . $1100 obo + shipping I can organize the freight if need be. **would recommend an inspection before install** ( change seals/ gaskets) -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7744.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1023478 bytes Desc: IMG_7744.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00001.txt URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7742.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 796478 bytes Desc: IMG_7742.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00002.txt URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: IMG_7738.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 960972 bytes Desc: IMG_7738.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00006.txt URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Nov 11 14:01:13 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 21:01:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <714049477.2526142.1573506073210@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... Back when I was racing, we had three or four fully prepared axles on the shelf.? One was for Street Races (we did St. Pete's, Grand Rapids (twice), and Minneapolis (twice), one for tight tracks like Blackhawk, and one for tracks like Road America and Watkins Glen.? Our mechanic, Kevin Potter, was really good and swapping axles, but then he was really good at everything. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Tony and Annie Garmey via Fot To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Nov 11, 2019 12:44 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale Hi all :-) ? Super HEAVY duty? Dyna 44 that was removed from a Running TR 4 . I believe this was built/ Made by Southwick machine . 3:7 CWP Posi traction 7/16 wheel studs Complete with backing plates / drive shaft / axles . $1100 obo + shipping I can? organize the freight if need be. **would recommend an inspection before install** ( change seals/ gaskets) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stutztr4 at gmail.com Mon Nov 11 15:32:59 2019 From: stutztr4 at gmail.com (Bruce Stutzman) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 17:32:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale In-Reply-To: <714049477.2526142.1573506073210@mail.yahoo.com> References: <714049477.2526142.1573506073210@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The Dana 44 was the stock diff in the Sunbeam Tiger. On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 4:01 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > Amici... > > Back when I was racing, we had three or four fully prepared axles on the > shelf. One was for Street Races (we did St. Pete's, Grand Rapids (twice), > and Minneapolis (twice), one for tight tracks like Blackhawk, and one for > tracks like Road America and Watkins Glen. Our mechanic, Kevin Potter, was > really good and swapping axles, but then he was really good at everything. > > Bill Dentinger > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tony and Annie Garmey via Fot > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, Nov 11, 2019 12:44 pm > Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale > > Hi all :-) > > ? Super HEAVY duty? Dyna 44 that was removed from a Running TR 4 . > I believe this was built/ Made by Southwick machine . > 3:7 CWP > Posi traction > 7/16 wheel studs > Complete with backing plates / drive shaft / axles . > > $1100 obo + shipping > I can organize the freight if need be. > > **would recommend an inspection before install** ( change seals/ gaskets) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutztr4 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Tue Nov 12 13:46:47 2019 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 14:46:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Triumph 2000 Message-ID: A M I C I Does anyone know of a 60's era Triumph 2000 for sale? Thanks Dennis -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Tue Nov 12 22:45:26 2019 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 21:45:26 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Triumph 2000 In-Reply-To: <20191112204720.89FAEA06BF@autox.team.net> References: <20191112204720.89FAEA06BF@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I hear the one built for Paul Newman can be had for somewhere near $250K... Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 12, 2019, at 12:47 PM, Dennis DeLap via Fot wrote: > > ? > A M I C I > Does anyone know of a 60's era Triumph 2000 for sale? > Thanks > Dennis > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Nov 13 08:59:52 2019 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (JAMES GRAY) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 08:59:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Fot] Fot member dropped off list Message-ID: <1551144113.132350.1573660792989@connect.xfinity.com> Mark, Would you please reinstate Jeff Hall to the list, he was dropped off somehow. Jeff is one of our ( RMVR) GT-6 drivers. jeffwhall at aol.com mailto:jeffwhall at aol.com Thanks, Jim Gray -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Wed Nov 13 18:56:34 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] AUTOWEEK References: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... AUTOWEEK...RIP! ?The last issued arrived today. Not a big surprise, as print?Magazines and Newspapers?are having great difficulty surviving. My own subscription to AUTOWEEK?does not expire until December 2020. ?I have no hard feelings however. ?Last time I renewed extended subscription rates were dirt cheap as they scrambled to generate cash. The handwriting was on the wall. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjl at gt-classics.com Thu Nov 14 06:29:19 2019 From: rjl at gt-classics.com (=?UTF-8?B?Ui4gSm9obiBMeWU=?=) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 08:29:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] AUTOWEEK In-Reply-To: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1573738159.u65d1elbsaok8o4g@webmail.lumos.net> Wow, that is sad.  I received the new issue, but have not had time to read it.  I have several years left on my subscription, oh well.  This is not the first magazine that I really enjoyed that has gone belly up, but this is the one that I have been reading the longest, I believe. John   On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC), Bill Dentinger via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote: Amici...   AUTOWEEK...RIP!  The last issued arrived today.   Not a big surprise, as print Magazines and Newspapers are having great difficulty surviving. My own subscription to AUTOWEEK does not expire until December 2020.  I have no hard feelings however.  Last time I renewed extended subscription rates were dirt cheap as they scrambled to generate cash.   The handwriting was on the wall.   Bill Dentinger   Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com   -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From LawrenceRoss at allstate.com Thu Nov 14 07:09:49 2019 From: LawrenceRoss at allstate.com (Ross, Lawrence) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 14:09:49 +0000 Subject: [Fot] AUTOWEEK In-Reply-To: <1573738159.u65d1elbsaok8o4g@webmail.lumos.net> References: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com>, <1573738159.u65d1elbsaok8o4g@webmail.lumos.net> Message-ID: My "last issue" arrived last week. My subscription is paid until 2021. Since Hearst also owns Rod & Track plus Car & Driver, it will be what options well be offered. Of course, I'm still waiting for my refund from Hemming's Sports & Exotics. Larry Lawrence Ross Agency 67 Old Clairton Rd. Pittsburgh, PA. 15236 (412) 655-9990 - office (412) 780-8495 - cell ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of R. John Lye via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2019 8:29 AM To: billdentin at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: [External] Re: [Fot] AUTOWEEK Wow, that is sad. I received the new issue, but have not had time to read it. I have several years left on my subscription, oh well. This is not the first magazine that I really enjoyed that has gone belly up, but this is the one that I have been reading the longest, I believe. John On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC), Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Amici... AUTOWEEK...RIP! The last issued arrived today. Not a big surprise, as print Magazines and Newspapers are having great difficulty surviving. My own subscription to AUTOWEEK does not expire until December 2020. I have no hard feelings however. Last time I renewed extended subscription rates were dirt cheap as they scrambled to generate cash. The handwriting was on the wall. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Thu Nov 14 07:29:59 2019 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 14:29:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] AUTOWEEK In-Reply-To: References: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com> <1573738159.u65d1elbsaok8o4g@webmail.lumos.net> Message-ID: <1311402714.823929.1573741799919@mail.yahoo.com> I just got my last issue as well.? Really was one of my favorite mags, and I recently renewed also.? Not as bad timing as FINALLY subscribing to Spitfire and GT6 magazine, sending in my check, with the mag folding probably the day after Shawn got the check.? No offense, Shawn!? You photography and coverage makes up for it!-- Jay De Pol -----Original Message----- From: Ross, Lawrence via Fot To: billdentin at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net ; rjl at gt-classics.com Sent: Thu, Nov 14, 2019 9:11 am Subject: Re: [Fot] AUTOWEEK #yiv3305655251 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} My "last issue" arrived last week. My subscription is paid until 2021. Since Hearst also owns Rod & Track plus Car & Driver, it will be what options well be offered. Of course, I'm still waiting for my refund from Hemming's Sports & Exotics. Larry Lawrence Ross Agency67 Old Clairton Rd.Pittsburgh, PA. 15236(412) 655-9990 - office(412) 780-8495 - cell From: Fot on behalf of R. John Lye via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2019 8:29 AM To: billdentin at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: [External] Re: [Fot] AUTOWEEK?Wow, that is sad.? I received the new issue, but have not had time to read it.? I have several years left on my subscription, oh well.? This is not the first magazine that I really enjoyed that has gone belly up, but this is the one that I have been reading the longest, I believe. John ? On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC), Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Amici...?AUTOWEEK...RIP! ?The last issued arrived today.?Not a big surprise, as print?Magazines and Newspapers?are having great difficulty surviving. My own subscription to AUTOWEEK?does not expire until December 2020. ?I have no hard feelings however. ?Last time I renewed extended subscription rates were dirt cheap as they scrambled to generate cash.?The handwriting was on the wall.?Bill Dentinger ?Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dennis at motorsportranch.com Thu Nov 14 15:17:59 2019 From: dennis at motorsportranch.com (Dennis) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 16:17:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] GT6 for sale Message-ID: 1978 GT6 roller for sale. Car was last driven in 1968. Original wire wheels. Resto-mod restoration 50% complete. Please call or txt for more info. Dennis Walje 817-915-0812 Sent from my iPhone From spiwakd at aol.com Thu Nov 14 15:21:27 2019 From: spiwakd at aol.com (spiwakd at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 22:21:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] For Sale References: <415366591.455392.1573770087214.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <415366591.455392.1573770087214@mail.yahoo.com> Long list of racing parts and driver's gear for sale also a complete new full-race engine for TR3-4 with all machine work done needing final assembly. Contact me off-list for?complete list?spiwakd at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dennis at motorsportranch.com Thu Nov 14 15:22:08 2019 From: dennis at motorsportranch.com (Dennis) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 16:22:08 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: GT6 for sale References: Message-ID: Sent from my iPhone Begin forwarded message: > From: Dennis > Date: November 14, 2019 at 4:20:52 PM CST > To: Dennis > Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 for sale > > Sorry. Got dates switched. The Gt6 is a 1968 > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Nov 14, 2019, at 4:17 PM, Dennis via Fot wrote: >> >> 1978 GT6 roller for sale. Car was last driven in 1968. Original wire wheels. Resto-mod restoration 50% complete. Please call or txt for more info. >> >> Dennis Walje >> 817-915-0812 >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dennis at motorsportranch.com >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 11:00:13 2019 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 13:00:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Host hotel for the K Cup? Message-ID: Hi folks, a non racing Triumph friend is planning on attending the K cup and wants to know if there will be a hotel associated with the event. thanks mike h -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 11:04:13 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 12:04:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Host hotel for the K Cup? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4007DC31-9FD4-44AA-A4DB-70E83D08911A@gmail.com> Mike & FOT There is no official Host Hotel. Kas is likely to be domiciled at the Hampton Inn. Regards, Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Nov 15, 2019, at 12:00 PM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi folks, a non racing Triumph friend is planning on attending the K cup and wants to know if there will be a hotel associated with the event. > > thanks > mike h > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > From chrispanayotti at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 06:14:26 2019 From: chrispanayotti at gmail.com (chris panayotti) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 08:14:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 Message-ID: Hi all, I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. If you need any more info about my setup please ask Thank you Chris Panayotti -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Fri Nov 15 17:55:08 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 17:55:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <69cd138a-7439-a3fb-0991-8dba4c123094@bradakis.com> In general I don't send messages from non-members on to the list, but this seems like a legitimate, well founded request for assistance.? Perhaps some of you can assist Chris on this matter. mjb. On 11/15/19 6:14 AM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like > from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing > this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a > Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am > trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would > be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is > accleration off idle.? It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture > screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that > point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine > if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a > point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but > with any load at all it bogs and dies.? I've come to the conclusion my > progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of > which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and > verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect > At .010".? I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am > running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does > work and brings it up to 24ish deg.? It is a stock points distributor > by the way.? I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade > that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked > compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to > get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list > but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the > distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm > fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti From sjanzen at me.com Fri Nov 15 18:44:41 2019 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 20:44:41 -0500 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> More information is needed. I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? What size chokes are you running? Main jets, idle jets? Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > From chasgee22 at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 18:51:43 2019 From: chasgee22 at gmail.com (Chuck Gee) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 17:51:43 -0800 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> References: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> Message-ID: Are the bowl vents clear? Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 15, 2019, at 5:44 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ? > More information is needed. > I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? > What size chokes are you running? > Main jets, idle jets? > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: >> >> ? >> Hi all, >> >> I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. >> >> So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. >> >> I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. >> >> Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. >> >> If you need any more info about my setup please ask >> >> Thank you >> Chris Panayotti >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com > > From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Fri Nov 15 21:34:46 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 04:34:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1160805473.699802.1573878886978@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. I'd put a vacuum gauge on the setup and tune your idle using that. If you're running a stock cam, you should be able to pull more than 15 inches of vacuum, so try advancing the ignition timing and balancing off the idle screws (not the mixture, the idle screw) to get you idle down and still pull the vacuum. If that doesn't help, double check your float levels - if the float level is wrong you won't be able to get the carbs to work right. Note that the idle jets do just about nothing after the throttle is off the stop - after that you're on the mains. Sounds simple, but like nobody seems to get that. 50F11 should be more than adequate idle jets. Regarding the distributor - the timing needs to be ROCK SOLID. If it bounces at all or if there are skips, you need to fix that first. You can't tune bad ignition with the carbs. :-) Regarding timing, I've set up plenty of cars with 15 BTDC at idle. The trick is to get about 32 or 33 degrees total advance at 3000 or 3500. How you get there depends on how much mechanical advance your distributor makes - if you have Lucas, there are several different numbers available. Feel free to ping me off list. Regards,Bob Lang On Friday, November 15, 2019, 7:52:12 PM EST, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: Hi all,? I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle.? It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies.? I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010".? I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg.? It is a stock points distributor by the way.? I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. If you need any more info about my setup please ask Thank youChris Panayotti_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 21:49:22 2019 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 21:49:22 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: <1160805473.699802.1573878886978@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1160805473.699802.1573878886978@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have a web page focused on DCOEs for the TR3 & 4 engine. While the jet suggestions are not applicable, a lot of the material covers how each part of a DCOE works and how all the parts work together. So if you could use a carb primer to help you trouble shoot your problem, http://www.tr3a.info/WeberDCOEinfo.htm TeriAnn From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Nov 16 00:40:00 2019 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 00:40:00 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Chris, The mixture screws should be out 1 turn from lightly seated. You might be a little lean on the idle jet if it needs that extra 1/4 turn. It doesn?t take much too make a difference with the mixture screw. If the speed screw is more than 1/2 turn out from lightly touching the lever it may indicate a lean idle jet too. If the speed screw is turned much more than that you could be getting into the progression holes instead of the idle jet alone. The progression holes are there to make a smooth transition from the idle jet circuit to the main jet circuit. If you?re into the progression holes to make it idle correctly then it?s another indication that the idle jet is too lean as their function is to add gas to the mix. As far as the bog on acceleration, pull the pump jets and see what size is in there. You may need to go smaller to decrease the volume and duration of the squirt of gas when accelerating. I had a bogging down problem upon acceleration and going from a 55 to a 40 pump jet solved that problem. I now run both the pump jet and the spill jet (exhaust jet) with size 40 jets. Check the pump jets first, as it?s the easiest thing to do, then maybe look at a richer idle jet if that doesn?t help. You may have two things going on here, 1) the acceleration issue (the pump jets), and 2) the adjustments needed to the mixture and speed screws (the idle jet). Good luck. It will be great once you get them right. Bud > On Nov 15, 2019, at 6:14 AM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sat Nov 16 03:41:51 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 11:41:51 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1356606085.208714594.1573900911103.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Chris, you do not mention a lambda sensor and/or other equipment to read the exhaust gases. Tuning Webers for a street car is more complex than for racing. The idle jet has, apart from the fuel hole at the bottom, also an air bleed hole on the side of the jet. The combination of this 2 holes is determining the fuel/air mixture delivered at the progression holes. 1.5 turns from the seats for the idle screw is pointing to a lean fuel/air mixture delivered to the progression holes by the idle jets. The acceleration jets should deliver a strong jet of fuel : as far as about 1/2 or 1 meter (when the carbs are not mounted). If you don't see this, maybe the accelerator intake/discharge valves(not the accelerator pump jets) are not in place in the bottom of the fuel chambers! Marcel ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- Van: "fot" Aan: "chris panayotti" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 16 november 2019 08:40:00 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 Hi Chris, The mixture screws should be out 1 turn from lightly seated. You might be a little lean on the idle jet if it needs that extra 1/4 turn. It doesn?t take much too make a difference with the mixture screw. If the speed screw is more than 1/2 turn out from lightly touching the lever it may indicate a lean idle jet too. If the speed screw is turned much more than that you could be getting into the progression holes instead of the idle jet alone. The progression holes are there to make a smooth transition from the idle jet circuit to the main jet circuit. If you?re into the progression holes to make it idle correctly then it?s another indication that the idle jet is too lean as their function is to add gas to the mix. As far as the bog on acceleration, pull the pump jets and see what size is in there. You may need to go smaller to decrease the volume and duration of the squirt of gas when accelerating. I had a bogging down problem upon acceleration and going from a 55 to a 40 pump jet solved that problem. I now run both the pump jet and the spill jet (exhaust jet) with size 40 jets. Check the pump jets first, as it?s the easiest thing to do, then maybe look at a richer idle jet if that doesn?t help. You may have two things going on here, 1) the acceleration issue (the pump jets), and 2) the adjustments needed to the mixture and speed screws (the idle jet). Good luck. It will be great once you get them right. Bud > On Nov 15, 2019, at 6:14 AM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Sat Nov 16 11:05:53 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 10:05:53 -0800 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Settings I have used: Main 120 Emulsion f16 Air 190 Idle f9/45 Pump 45 Choke 30 This is on a bone stock TVR w 6 motor Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Nov 15, 2019, at 4:51 PM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Sat Nov 16 11:05:53 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 10:05:53 -0800 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Settings I have used: Main 120 Emulsion f16 Air 190 Idle f9/45 Pump 45 Choke 30 This is on a bone stock TVR w 6 motor Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Nov 15, 2019, at 4:51 PM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > From chrispanayotti at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 19:08:40 2019 From: chrispanayotti at gmail.com (chris panayotti) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 21:08:40 -0500 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> References: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> Message-ID: Forgot to hit reply all the first time Hi Scott, Yes they are 40 DCOE 18 I didn't write down my choke sizes but I'm pretty sure they are 30s. I can double check tomorrow. Main jets are 120 emulsion tubes are f11 , idle jet is 50F11, pump jet is 40. I think that is everything. All the carbs are the same. They are made in Italy Weber's also not Mexico ones. Thanks, Chris On Fri, Nov 15, 2019, 8:44 PM Scott Janzen wrote: > > More information is needed. > I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? > What size chokes are you running? > Main jets, idle jets? > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot > wrote: > > > > ? > > Hi all, > > > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from > December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. > Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon > manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do > the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to > share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is > accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture > screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point > either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold > it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it > revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all > it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to > blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and > verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At > .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it > at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it > up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a > few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully > used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to > get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but > still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor > but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident > it's a carb problem. > > > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > > > Thank you > > Chris Panayotti > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From chrispanayotti at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 19:10:46 2019 From: chrispanayotti at gmail.com (chris panayotti) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 21:10:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> Message-ID: Yes I believe the vents are clear. It's a pretty large hole that goes into the air filter housing if I'm not mistaken. But I will double check that. Chris On Fri, Nov 15, 2019, 8:51 PM Chuck Gee wrote: > Are the bowl vents clear? > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 15, 2019, at 5:44 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot > wrote: > > > > ? > > More information is needed. > > I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? > > What size chokes are you running? > > Main jets, idle jets? > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > >> On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> > >> ? > >> Hi all, > >> > >> I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like > from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. > Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon > manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do > the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to > share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > >> > >> So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is > accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture > screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point > either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold > it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it > revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all > it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to > blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > >> > >> I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and > verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At > .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it > at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it > up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a > few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully > used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > >> > >> Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to > get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but > still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor > but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident > it's a carb problem. > >> > >> If you need any more info about my setup please ask > >> > >> Thank you > >> Chris Panayotti > >> _______________________________________________ > >> fot at autox.team.net > >> > >> http://www.fot-racing.com > >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive > http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > >> > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sun Nov 17 01:22:16 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 09:22:16 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> Message-ID: <173189750.211953297.1573978936271.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> It is probably the progression circuit indeed. It seems there is no fuel arriving at the progression holes at all and that you manage to overcome this (when there is no load) with the accelerator pump (getting some fuel in the tracts by fast pumping till the main circuit is taking over). Is this a new installation? I know of a guy who does rebuild and inspect new Webers before installing them! Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "Chuck Gee" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 16 november 2019 03:10:46 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 Yes I believe the vents are clear. It's a pretty large hole that goes into the air filter housing if I'm not mistaken. But I will double check that. Chris On Fri, Nov 15, 2019, 8:51 PM Chuck Gee < [ mailto:chasgee22 at gmail.com | chasgee22 at gmail.com ] > wrote: Are the bowl vents clear? Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 15, 2019, at 5:44 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: > > > More information is needed. > I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? > What size chokes are you running? > Main jets, idle jets? > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: >> >> >> Hi all, >> >> I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. >> >> So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. >> >> I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. >> >> Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. >> >> If you need any more info about my setup please ask >> >> Thank you >> Chris Panayotti >> _______________________________________________ >> [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] >> >> [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] >> >> Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] >> Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] >> Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com ] >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > > [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] > > Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] > Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] > Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com ] > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Sun Nov 17 11:23:04 2019 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:23:04 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination Message-ID: I'd like to nominate my friend Fred Winterburn, Morgan Plus 4 owner with questions about early TR engines. Fred worked out a few of the TR cooling problems on his own and he builds and sells his own capacitive discharge ignition system based on what he learned from his father, Lloyd Winterburn, patent holder of the earliest efficient CDI systems ( https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/unsung-motor-industry-hero-fl-winterburn-his-capacitor-nicholas-gomez ). I've been using one of Fred's units for the last few years in a race car and am in the process of installing another unit in another race car. No complaints! Duncan Charlton -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Sun Nov 17 11:24:24 2019 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:24:24 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mark -- should he get a second, Fred's email address is: winterburnignition at gmail.com Duncan On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 12:23 PM Duncan Charlton < duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com> wrote: > I'd like to nominate my friend Fred Winterburn, Morgan Plus 4 owner with > questions about early TR engines. > > Fred worked out a few of the TR cooling problems on his own and he builds > and sells his own capacitive discharge ignition system based on what he > learned from his father, Lloyd Winterburn, patent holder of the earliest > efficient CDI systems ( > https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/unsung-motor-industry-hero-fl-winterburn-his-capacitor-nicholas-gomez > ). > > I've been using one of Fred's units for the last few years in a race car > and am in the process of installing another unit in another race car. No > complaints! > > Duncan Charlton > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Sun Nov 17 11:38:24 2019 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:38:24 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Duncan, I second the nomination. The linkedin read was very interesting. Paul Ricco Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 17, 2019, at 12:27 PM, Duncan Charlton via Fot wrote: > > ? > Mark -- should he get a second, Fred's email address is: > winterburnignition at gmail.com > > Duncan > > > >> On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 12:23 PM Duncan Charlton wrote: >> I'd like to nominate my friend Fred Winterburn, Morgan Plus 4 owner with questions about early TR engines. >> >> Fred worked out a few of the TR cooling problems on his own and he builds and sells his own capacitive discharge ignition system based on what he learned from his father, Lloyd Winterburn, patent holder of the earliest efficient CDI systems (https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/unsung-motor-industry-hero-fl-winterburn-his-capacitor-nicholas-gomez). >> >> I've been using one of Fred's units for the last few years in a race car and am in the process of installing another unit in another race car. No complaints! >> >> Duncan Charlton > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Mon Nov 18 14:12:42 2019 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 15:12:42 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Triumph 2000 Message-ID: A M I C I I found a Triumph 2000 in the Seattle area that I want to buy. 'Long shot here' - Is anyone traveling from the Northwest toward the Midwest with an empty trailer over the course of the next few months? Thanks Dennis -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 18 15:35:16 2019 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 22:35:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fw: Triumph 2000 In-Reply-To: <20191118211343.3D8F3A060A@autox.team.net> References: <20191118211343.3D8F3A060A@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <890836297.2863138.1574116516322@mail.yahoo.com> I hadn't thought of this until I saw this message, but I have a similar situation.? There is a TR-3 South of San Francisco which I am considering buying.? One of the hindrances is getting it to me in Central North Carolina.? If by chance anyone is going to be traveling the San Francisco to North Caro0lina route (or thereabouts), with an empty trailer, I'd be happy to help out with gas and expenses,. Thanks. Jack PS.? Dennis - Did you race a TR-3 at Watkins Glen in 1975?. ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Dennis DeLap via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019, 4:13:44 PM ESTSubject: [Fot] Triumph 2000 A M I C I I found a Triumph 2000 in the Seattle area that I want to buy. 'Long shot here' - Is anyone traveling from the Northwest toward the Midwest with an empty trailer over the course of the next few months? Thanks Dennis _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 18 17:34:58 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 00:34:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? References: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> OK, so i replaced the battery with a Deka small unit in the duke of oil (TR4A), and installed a new gear reduction starter at the same time. everything seemed both hunky and dory. car started right up and sounded normal, then i noticed that when revved, the ammeter showed progressing discharge! ammeter was at about zero until revved when it went further into the negative amps (to about -15amps) with the increasing revs, much like it would when charging except showing a discharge. i double checked that the batt was in with neg ground (its been neg ground for years). i even checked the polarity with a voltmeter and the batt markings were correct! wtf has happened here? I can re-polarize the generator and im guessing all will be well, but how did this occur? baffled again in norcalnick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Mon Nov 18 19:29:24 2019 From: fmccjr at aol.com (Rick McCurdy) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 21:29:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <215460A9-16B9-411B-B9F8-712353C19B48@aol.com> Swap the ammeter terminals? ??? Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY > On Nov 18, 2019, at 7:34 PM, Nick Black via Fot wrote: > > OK, so i replaced the battery with a Deka small unit in the duke of oil (TR4A), and installed a new gear reduction starter at the same time. everything seemed both hunky and dory. car started right up and sounded normal, then i noticed that when revved, the ammeter showed progressing discharge! ammeter was at about zero until revved when it went further into the negative amps (to about -15amps) with the increasing revs, much like it would when charging except showing a discharge. i double checked that the batt was in with neg ground (its been neg ground for years). i even checked the polarity with a voltmeter and the batt markings were correct! wtf has happened here? I can re-polarize the generator and im guessing all will be well, but how did this occur? > > baffled again in norcal > nick > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Mon Nov 18 19:29:24 2019 From: fmccjr at aol.com (Rick McCurdy) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 21:29:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <215460A9-16B9-411B-B9F8-712353C19B48@aol.com> Swap the ammeter terminals? ??? Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY > On Nov 18, 2019, at 7:34 PM, Nick Black via Fot wrote: > > OK, so i replaced the battery with a Deka small unit in the duke of oil (TR4A), and installed a new gear reduction starter at the same time. everything seemed both hunky and dory. car started right up and sounded normal, then i noticed that when revved, the ammeter showed progressing discharge! ammeter was at about zero until revved when it went further into the negative amps (to about -15amps) with the increasing revs, much like it would when charging except showing a discharge. i double checked that the batt was in with neg ground (its been neg ground for years). i even checked the polarity with a voltmeter and the batt markings were correct! wtf has happened here? I can re-polarize the generator and im guessing all will be well, but how did this occur? > > baffled again in norcal > nick > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stutztr4 at gmail.com Mon Nov 18 20:18:58 2019 From: stutztr4 at gmail.com (Bruce Stutzman) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 22:18:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 2.5 PI Message-ID: Was somebody looking for a 2.5 PI? I've come across one that is available. Bruce Stutzman -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 18 21:28:51 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 22:28:51 -0600 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <215460A9-16B9-411B-B9F8-712353C19B48@aol.com> References: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> <215460A9-16B9-411B-B9F8-712353C19B48@aol.com> Message-ID: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> What happens if you turn on headlights with the engine not running? -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 19 07:52:13 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 06:52:13 -0800 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> References: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> Message-ID: Good thought but there?s no big loads avail on the car as the only circuit is the ignition. Tried flipping ign on and off but not enuf load to see movement on the gauge. I guess I could have repolarized the gen somehow but it was really just a quick batt change and starter installed when the batt was out. Just thot it odd at least... Yes I?m positive about the negative... Nick Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Nov 18, 2019, at 8:29 PM, Randall via Fot wrote: > > ?What happens if you turn on headlights with the engine not running? > -- Randall_______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 19 07:52:13 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 06:52:13 -0800 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> References: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> Message-ID: Good thought but there?s no big loads avail on the car as the only circuit is the ignition. Tried flipping ign on and off but not enuf load to see movement on the gauge. I guess I could have repolarized the gen somehow but it was really just a quick batt change and starter installed when the batt was out. Just thot it odd at least... Yes I?m positive about the negative... Nick Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Nov 18, 2019, at 8:29 PM, Randall via Fot wrote: > > ?What happens if you turn on headlights with the engine not running? > -- Randall_______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 19 09:08:30 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 10:08:30 -0600 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: References: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> Message-ID: Generator polarity shouldn't be able to do that, since it eventually gets connected to the battery. Normally the battery is much stronger, so the generator gets automatically polarized every time the cutout closes (and the red light goes out). It's not a particularly good idea to switch polarity that way (lots of violence at the cutout contacts when the generator fights the battery), but it does work (if the contacts survive). I keep an assortment of "burned out" headlight bulbs for tests like this. The low beam filament always burbs out first, which leaves the high beam filament functional as a roughly 5 amp load. There are other possibilities, but ammeter polarity is still the first thing I would check. -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Nov 20 09:28:21 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 08:28:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Nomination Message-ID: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> Hello Friends, I would like to nominate Scott Meredith, sonomascot at aol.com. Scott is a relatively new to Triumphs. He purchased a really nice and beautifully prepared, blue with red Spitfire race car off Bring a Trailer. Some of you may be familiar with the car. We paddocked together at Sonoma in early October and raced in the same group. Do I have a second? Dave Hogye -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Wed Nov 20 09:33:24 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 16:33:24 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Second! From: Fot On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE via Fot Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 10:28 AM To: Friends of Triumph Subject: [Fot] Nomination Hello Friends, I would like to nominate Scott Meredith, sonomascot at aol.com. Scott is a relatively new to Triumphs. He purchased a really nice and beautifully prepared, blue with red Spitfire race car off Bring a Trailer. Some of you may be familiar with the car. We paddocked together at Sonoma in early October and raced in the same group. Do I have a second? Dave Hogye -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From david.c.cutter at gmail.com Wed Nov 20 09:37:23 2019 From: david.c.cutter at gmail.com (David Cutter) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 08:37:23 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Another Spit racer...nice! On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 8:33 AM Barr, Scott via Fot wrote: > Second! > > > > *From:* Fot *On Behalf Of *DAVE HOGYE via Fot > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 20, 2019 10:28 AM > *To:* Friends of Triumph > *Subject:* [Fot] Nomination > > > > Hello Friends, > > I would like to nominate Scott Meredith, sonomascot at aol.com. Scott is a > relatively new to Triumphs. He purchased a really nice and beautifully > prepared, blue with red Spitfire race car off Bring a Trailer. Some of you > may be familiar with the car. We paddocked together at Sonoma in early > October and raced in the same group. > > Do I have a second? > > Dave Hogye > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/david.c.cutter at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Wed Nov 20 13:52:43 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 13:52:43 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> Scott has been added. We are coming up on this list's birthday, and in the 23 years since its beginning we have gathered up 360 members.? Since the early days of what was to become Team Net, I've managed about 70 different lists over those 30 years.? This one is my favorite. mjb. From billdentin at aol.com Wed Nov 20 14:01:10 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 21:01:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1237779537.3138375.1574283670364@mail.yahoo.com> KUDOS, Mark... Seems like FOT members ought to seek funds for a policy to protect our interests in case, God Forbid, something would ever happen to you.? It would take a ton of money to find a replacement. Come to think of it, we should have one for Kas and Joe Alexander as well.... Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot To: fot Sent: Wed, Nov 20, 2019 12:52 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination Scott has been added. We are coming up on this list's birthday, and in the 23 years since its beginning we have gathered up 360 members.? Since the early days of what was to become Team Net, I've managed about 70 different lists over those 30 years.? This one is my favorite. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Nov 20 17:21:04 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 16:21:04 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1451310718.83328.1574295664592@connect.xfinity.com> Thanks Mark, Seems like a good time as any to make a donation to Team.net. Dave H. > On November 20, 2019 at 12:52 PM Mark J Bradakis via Fot wrote: > > > Scott has been added. > > We are coming up on this list's birthday, and in the 23 years since its > beginning we have gathered up 360 members.? Since the early days of what > was to become Team Net, I've managed about 70 different lists over those > 30 years.? This one is my favorite. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Nov 21 14:37:42 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 21:37:42 +0000 Subject: [Fot] FOT SWAG In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm sure everybody will want to be looking their finest at the 2020 Kastner Cup. So, just a reminder that FOT has their own storefront at Lands End Business. I received a call from them today and they are running a 25% off sale through December 4th. Somewhere at the end of your order you will have a spot to plug in code "OUT4" in a box to claim your discount. Don't expect bulk t-shirt prices, there stuff is nice, the embroidery is top notch and most importantly you can order one of. Below is my original email explaining how to order. Marty ________________________________ From: marty Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 8:50 PM To: FOT Subject: FOT SWAG Ok boys and girls. We now have the ability of purchasing FOT bling. There is now a FOT store front on the Lands End Business website. See the instructions below for a link. This is for getting the FOT logo embroidered on any item in their catalog. It is not for silk screened items. I am starting with the black and white coat of arms that was used in the 2012 special shirt run. Once you run through the sequence a time or two it is pretty simple. I have tried to explain it below. I have used Land Ends Business for other car clubs store fronts and it is top quality and best of all you can return things. Give it a try. Marty Sukey 1, go to https://business.landsend.com/store/fot/ 2, set up an account for yourself and log in. 3, pick an item you might want. 4, click on apply logo, 5, select the FOT logo, 6,if you want, select change colors. Here you can experiment with changing colors on the logo to better suit the color of shirt you pick. If you hit select new colors you will get a drop down with multiple boxes. Try putting a different color in each box and see how it effects the logo. Then you can tweak it as needed. 7, select location. 8, hit apply logo. 9, hit cancel or add to bag. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Thu Nov 21 19:28:53 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 19:28:53 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT SWAG In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Back when this was first announced, I remember going to the website and looking at hats.? I whined about how the one I wanted had a 2 dozen minimum order.? Later on when I was at Buttonwillow for that event, I caught myself thinking I really wish I had gotten 2 dozen, or more, hats to pass around.? Oh well. I'll do some shopping soon with Mid Ohio in mind. mjb. From vfracing at aol.com Fri Nov 22 14:58:18 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 16:58:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support References: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A@aol.com> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Nov 22 20:56:38 2019 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:56:38 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A@aol.com> References: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A.ref@aol.com> <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A@aol.com> Message-ID: I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.? Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.? To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap? and you must use longer bolts. ?Some? builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > Thanks, > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 23 04:42:46 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 06:42:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >> Thanks, >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 23 04:42:46 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 06:42:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >> Thanks, >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Sat Nov 23 05:11:15 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 12:11:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <1782885244.2876404.1574510844990@mail.yahoo.com> References: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A.ref@aol.com> <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A@aol.com> <1782885244.2876404.1574510844990@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <44648925.2846713.1574511075943@mail.yahoo.com> The center main strap is often used on some high-revving engines, ie Spit & A-series, but I've never seen the need for it on the Tractor engine.If it's well balanced & not run at stupid RPM, the mains will last a long time.Glen -----Original Message----- From: Phil Gott via Fot To: Friends Of Triumph Sent: Fri, Nov 22, 2019 4:58 pm Subject: [Fot] Center main support Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Sat Nov 23 05:15:50 2019 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 07:15:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I also followed Uncle Jack's advice. It seemed to calm the engine vibration at higher revs (6000+) in addition to the cast alloy sump. I'm running a stock crank nitrided. Use ARP main studs. . On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 6:43 AM Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Thanks again, Tony: > The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to > reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the > sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through > the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based > on your recommendation, it seems to be. > Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine > today for other work. > Phil > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about > that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. > To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for > the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge > the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel > that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have > never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is > something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > Thanks, > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 23 20:11:05 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 22:11:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > Regards, Tony > >> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Thanks again, Tony: >> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >> Phil >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>> >>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>>> Thanks, >>>> Phil Gott >>>> 114 TR4A >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>>> >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 976982 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1056459 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image2.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 664537 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 23 20:11:05 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 22:11:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > Regards, Tony > >> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Thanks again, Tony: >> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >> Phil >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>> >>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>>> Thanks, >>>> Phil Gott >>>> 114 TR4A >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>>> >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 976982 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1056459 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image2.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 664537 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Nov 24 01:47:58 2019 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 09:47:58 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001d01d5a2a3$dfbca9b0$9f35fd10$@gmail.com> Interesting photos. I?ve never thought about this. All my cranks need a little straightening after some use in race engines. The machine shop says, that is normal. Many race engines warp cranks during usage. As long the bearings are okay nothing to do they say. My mains never developed a problem?..and I?m running larger main bearing clearances to compensate crank flexing?.all seems fine. On the other hand, I?m running smaller rod bearing clearances. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 04:11 An: Tony Drews Cc: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews > wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 664537 bytes Desc: not available URL: From quikrx at yahoo.com Sun Nov 24 11:16:32 2019 From: quikrx at yahoo.com (ralph hansen) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 18:16:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Factory Comp Prep manuals for sale References: <709204029.3061799.1574619392446.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <709204029.3061799.1574619392446@mail.yahoo.com> hello all,? have for sale one each factory comp prep manuals - new in good to excellent condition (shelf patina (yellowing) only) asking $27.00 US shipped to states, overseas will need to get price - PayPal and USPS is what I use available: MGB 1st editionTR4-TR4A 5th editionTR250, TR5, TR6 2nd edition if interested can email quikrx at yahoo.com or call 847 840 7366 9am-8pm any day central Ralph -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sun Nov 24 14:03:22 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 16:03:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. > > Regards, Tony > >> On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Here are some photos: >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >>>> Thanks again, Tony: >>>> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >>>> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >>>> Phil >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>>>> >>>>> ? >>>>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>>>> >>>>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>>>> >>>>> Regards, Tony Drews >>>>> >>>>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>>>>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>>>>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>>>>> Thanks, >>>>>> Phil Gott >>>>>> 114 TR4A >>>>>> >>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>>> >>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>>> >>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Sun Nov 24 14:57:41 2019 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 13:57:41 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> References: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> Message-ID: What Chris has failed to mention is that he holds the revs to 6000 and thus relieves a lot ofstrees on the entire engine. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 1:03 PM Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Interesting, Chris: > My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank > supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing > high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be > retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what > you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not > grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to > gain from that diagnosis. > Thanks for the input. > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > > Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. > > Regards, Tony > On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: > > Here are some photos: > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews > wrote: > > ? > > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap > to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > Regards, Tony > On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: > > Thanks again, Tony: > The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to > reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the > sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through > the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based > on your recommendation, it seems to be. > Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine > today for other work. > Phil > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews > wrote: > > ? > > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about > that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. > To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for > the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge > the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel > that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have > never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is > something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > Thanks, > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Nov 24 16:26:38 2019 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 00:26:38 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> References: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> Message-ID: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> Hi Phil, If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews > wrote: ? Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Nov 24 16:29:05 2019 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 00:29:05 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> References: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> Message-ID: <001301d5a31e$f6cca210$e465e630$@gmail.com> To add: The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. Simple as that :) Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews > wrote: ? Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steve at artwithcars.com Sun Nov 24 16:31:35 2019 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 15:31:35 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <001301d5a31e$f6cca210$e465e630$@gmail.com> References: <001301d5a31e$f6cca210$e465e630$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Mmmmmmm schnitzel ~Steve > On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: > > ? > To add: > The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. > The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. > Simple as that J > > Cheers > Chris > > > Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot > Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 > An: Friends Of Triumph > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support > > Interesting, Chris: > My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. > Thanks for the input. > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. > > Regards, Tony > > On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: > Here are some photos: > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > Regards, Tony > > On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: > Thanks again, Tony: > The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. > Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. > Phil > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > Thanks, > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Nov 24 16:58:39 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 23:58:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Center main support References: <1489443971.4803851.1574639919708.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1489443971.4803851.1574639919708@mail.yahoo.com> Ist das nicht ein schnitzel bank?Ja, das ist ein schnitzel bank! Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Sunday, November 24, 2019,?Steven Belfer via Fot??wrote: Mmmmmmm schnitzel? ~Steve On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: ? #yiv7704180401 #yiv7704180401 -- _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Wingdings;panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Consolas;panose-1:2 11 6 9 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv7704180401 #yiv7704180401 p.yiv7704180401MsoNormal, #yiv7704180401 li.yiv7704180401MsoNormal, #yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7704180401 a:link, #yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7704180401 a:visited, #yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7704180401 pre {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv7704180401 p.yiv7704180401msonormal0, #yiv7704180401 li.yiv7704180401msonormal0, #yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401msonormal0 {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401HTMLVorformatiertZchn {font-family:Consolas;}#yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401E-MailFormatvorlage22 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv7704180401 .yiv7704180401MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt;}#yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401WordSection1 {}#yiv7704180401 To add: The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. Simple as that J ? Cheers Chris ? ? Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support ? Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: ? Wow!? It's very nicely done.? Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: ? ? ? ? ? Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill.? Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill ?Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap ?is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. ?I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.? Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.? To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap? and you must use longer bolts. ?Some? builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews ? On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center.Curious as to the need for the extra support.Thanks,Phil Gott114 TR4A ?Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net ?http://www.fot-racing.com ?Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com ? ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Nov 24 16:58:39 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 23:58:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Center main support References: <1489443971.4803851.1574639919708.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1489443971.4803851.1574639919708@mail.yahoo.com> Ist das nicht ein schnitzel bank?Ja, das ist ein schnitzel bank! Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Sunday, November 24, 2019,?Steven Belfer via Fot??wrote: Mmmmmmm schnitzel? ~Steve On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: ? #yiv7704180401 #yiv7704180401 -- _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Wingdings;panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Consolas;panose-1:2 11 6 9 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv7704180401 #yiv7704180401 p.yiv7704180401MsoNormal, #yiv7704180401 li.yiv7704180401MsoNormal, #yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7704180401 a:link, #yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7704180401 a:visited, #yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7704180401 pre {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv7704180401 p.yiv7704180401msonormal0, #yiv7704180401 li.yiv7704180401msonormal0, #yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401msonormal0 {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401HTMLVorformatiertZchn {font-family:Consolas;}#yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401E-MailFormatvorlage22 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv7704180401 .yiv7704180401MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt;}#yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401WordSection1 {}#yiv7704180401 To add: The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. Simple as that J ? Cheers Chris ? ? Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support ? Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: ? Wow!? It's very nicely done.? Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: ? ? ? ? ? Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill.? Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill ?Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap ?is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. ?I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.? Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.? To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap? and you must use longer bolts. ?Some? builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews ? On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center.Curious as to the need for the extra support.Thanks,Phil Gott114 TR4A ?Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net ?http://www.fot-racing.com ?Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com ? ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Sun Nov 24 17:57:45 2019 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 00:57:45 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> References: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C4445D2-1FD6-440F-87F7-62E897A123ED@mhc-law.com> Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: ? Hi Phil, If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews > wrote: ? Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From chasgee22 at gmail.com Sun Nov 24 18:28:02 2019 From: chasgee22 at gmail.com (chasgee22 at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 17:28:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That?s funny, I said the same thing to myself when I read his email! Chuck > On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:31 PM, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > > ?Mmmmmmm schnitzel > > ~Steve > > >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> To add: >> The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. >> The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. >> Simple as that J >> >> Cheers >> Chris >> >> >> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot >> Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 >> An: Friends Of Triumph >> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support >> >> Interesting, Chris: >> My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. >> Thanks for the input. >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: >> >> ? >> Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. >> >> Regards, Tony >> >> On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Here are some photos: >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >> >> ? >> I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. >> >> Regards, Tony >> >> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Thanks again, Tony: >> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >> Phil >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >> >> ? >> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >> >> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >> >> Regards, Tony Drews >> >> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >> Thanks, >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Sun Nov 24 19:27:43 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 18:27:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <4C4445D2-1FD6-440F-87F7-62E897A123ED@mhc-law.com> References: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> <4C4445D2-1FD6-440F-87F7-62E897A123ED@mhc-law.com> Message-ID: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> My brother worked for Gran Turismo Jaguar in Northern Ohio a few decades ago and I remember well him telling me they taught him how to straighten cranks with a mallet of some sort, set up in a rotational device. I thought it was barbaric at the time having never heard of that sort of thing, but GTJ definitely knew what they were doing. GTJ built championship winning Jags. Dave H. > On November 24, 2019 at 4:57 PM "John H. Hasty via Fot" wrote: > > Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Phil, > > > > > > > > If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. > > > > They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. > > > > They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. > > > > > > > > I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. > > > > > > > > For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. > > > > Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. > > > > > > > > Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. > > > > > > > > Cheers > > > > Chris > > > > > > > > > > > > Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot > > Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 > > An: Friends Of Triumph > > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support > > > > > > > > Interesting, Chris: > > > > My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. > > Thanks for the input. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. > > > > > > Regards, Tony > > > > > > On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Here are some photos: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews mailto:tony at tonydrews.com wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > > > > > > > > > Regards, Tony > > > > > > > > > > On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again, Tony: > > > > > > > > > > > > The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. > > > > > > > > > > > > Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. > > > > > > > > > > > > Phil > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews mailto:tony at tonydrews.com wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Regards, Tony Drews > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Phil Gott > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 114 TR4A > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maddhatt69 at aol.com Sun Nov 24 20:38:27 2019 From: maddhatt69 at aol.com (Mathieu W. Huovinen) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 03:38:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question References: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Mon Nov 25 03:58:04 2019 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 10:58:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <532642969.3231030.1574679484941@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mathieu, Haven?t heard of that myself, but you didn?t mention the condition of the timing chain tensioner. ? Was it new recently? ? Perhaps the spring is too relaxed to keep proper tension on the chain. ? Also look at the timing cover where the tensioner rides. ? Has it worn a big groove into the timing cover? ?Maybe it?s getting held up. ? Compare it with a new tensioner spring, and see if the arc is relaxed a bit. That?s what I?d check first, but maybe you?ve done that. ? ?Is it a stock cam wheel, or is it an adjustable one? ?I?m assuming stock... Hope that helps!Dave Gott Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38 PM, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 25 04:21:12 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 11:21:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <181980779.3210587.1574680872086@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Nov 25 05:07:02 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 07:07:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Thanks everyone for the input! Very helpful! Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:28 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > ? > My brother worked for Gran Turismo Jaguar in Northern Ohio a few decades ago and I remember well him telling me they taught him how to straighten cranks with a mallet of some sort, set up in a rotational device. I thought it was barbaric at the time having never heard of that sort of thing, but GTJ definitely knew what they were doing. GTJ built championship winning Jags. > Dave H. >>> On November 24, 2019 at 4:57 PM "John H. Hasty via Fot" wrote: >>> >>> Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Hi Phil, >>> >>> >>> >>> If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. >>> >>> They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. >>> >>> They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. >>> >>> >>> >>> I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. >>> >>> >>> >>> For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. >>> >>> Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. >>> >>> >>> >>> Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot >>> Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 >>> An: Friends Of Triumph >>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support >>> >>> >>> >>> Interesting, Chris: >>> >>> My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. >>> Thanks for the input. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: >>> >>> Here are some photos: >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >>> >>> Thanks again, Tony: >>> >>> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >>> >>> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >>> >>> Phil >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>> >>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> >>> >>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>> >>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Phil Gott >>> >>> 114 TR4A >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Nov 25 05:07:02 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 07:07:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Thanks everyone for the input! Very helpful! Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:28 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > ? > My brother worked for Gran Turismo Jaguar in Northern Ohio a few decades ago and I remember well him telling me they taught him how to straighten cranks with a mallet of some sort, set up in a rotational device. I thought it was barbaric at the time having never heard of that sort of thing, but GTJ definitely knew what they were doing. GTJ built championship winning Jags. > Dave H. >>> On November 24, 2019 at 4:57 PM "John H. Hasty via Fot" wrote: >>> >>> Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Hi Phil, >>> >>> >>> >>> If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. >>> >>> They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. >>> >>> They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. >>> >>> >>> >>> I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. >>> >>> >>> >>> For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. >>> >>> Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. >>> >>> >>> >>> Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot >>> Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 >>> An: Friends Of Triumph >>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support >>> >>> >>> >>> Interesting, Chris: >>> >>> My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. >>> Thanks for the input. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: >>> >>> Here are some photos: >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >>> >>> Thanks again, Tony: >>> >>> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >>> >>> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >>> >>> Phil >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>> >>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> >>> >>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>> >>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Phil Gott >>> >>> 114 TR4A >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maddhatt69 at aol.com Mon Nov 25 05:14:06 2019 From: maddhatt69 at aol.com (Mathieu W. Huovinen) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 12:14:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <181980779.3210587.1574680872086@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> <181980779.3210587.1574680872086@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1236513597.6131929.1574684046086@mail.yahoo.com> Gents, I do have an adjustable cam gear and it was tight. Double roller, cam gear, and crank gear all sourced from Jigsaw Racking UK about two years ago. Maybe 5 weekends worth of use. I did reuse the chain tensioner that was in the timing chain cover (unknown use- likely stock from the early 70s) and I will admit it is the tensioner for a single chain- it also seems pretty worn. I am ordering a double chain tensioner from Moss this a.m. and see how it differs and will swap them out. Thanks for the responses! Mathieu -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang To: fot ; Mathieu W. Huovinen Sent: Mon, Nov 25, 2019 6:21 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Mon Nov 25 09:21:42 2019 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 11:21:42 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: SVRA's Black Friday Savings Start Now! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: FYI- SVRA Black Friday registration savings. ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: SVRA Date: Mon, Nov 25, 2019 at 10:47 AM Subject: SVRA's Black Friday Savings Start Now! To: johnstydo at gmail.com No Images? Click here [image: BLACK FRIDAY SALE] *SAVE ALL WEEK* ALL SVRA 2020 Sprint Race Entries*$100 OFF* *Shop Our Black Friday Sale - Starting Monday 11/25 and ending Friday 11/29 at MIDNIGHT. Save $100 On All Event Sprint Race Entries. No Limit. No Coupon Necessary. * *Offer valid on new entries only. Offer is not valid for Marque Reunion Entries.** Online Sprint Race Entry Fee Reflects $100 Savings.* REGISTER ONLINE NOW SVRA 1312 Regency Court Southlake, TX 76092 Forward Unsubscribe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Nov 24 23:56:35 2019 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 07:56:35 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> References: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> <4C4445D2-1FD6-440F-87F7-62E897A123ED@mhc-law.com> <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <000901d5a35d$7de20c70$79a62550$@gmail.com> Dave, it is fascinating to watch, how two people straightening a crank within few minutes. One is holding the bearing journal in place on a holder and the other give it a blow and measuring. Very cool. Once I helped myself. Nobody had a hand free, so I held the crank in place :) Cheers Chris Von: DAVE HOGYE Gesendet: Montag, 25. November 2019 03:28 An: John H. Hasty ; John H. Hasty via Fot ; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support My brother worked for Gran Turismo Jaguar in Northern Ohio a few decades ago and I remember well him telling me they taught him how to straighten cranks with a mallet of some sort, set up in a rotational device. I thought it was barbaric at the time having never heard of that sort of thing, but GTJ definitely knew what they were doing. GTJ built championship winning Jags. Dave H. On November 24, 2019 at 4:57 PM "John H. Hasty via Fot" > wrote: Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot > wrote: Hi Phil, If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. Cheers Chris Von: Fot > Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews > wrote: Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maddhatt69 at aol.com Tue Nov 26 05:54:25 2019 From: maddhatt69 at aol.com (Mathieu W. Huovinen) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:54:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question References: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189@mail.yahoo.com> Bob and FOT, I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned! Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maddhatt69 at aol.com Tue Nov 26 05:55:35 2019 From: maddhatt69 at aol.com (Mathieu W. Huovinen) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:55:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question References: <1442085095.168315.1574772935627.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1442085095.168315.1574772935627@mail.yahoo.com> On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20191126_074321.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2156043 bytes Desc: not available URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 26 06:26:14 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 13:26:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1625959716.194668.1574772865189@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1277791933.3595845.1574774774149@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer".? Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT, I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned! Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick.parent at att.net Tue Nov 26 07:28:38 2019 From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 14:28:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1277791933.3595845.1574774774149@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1625959716.194668.1574772865189@mail.yahoo.com> <1277791933.3595845.1574774774149@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1781290446.3615804.1574778518186@mail.yahoo.com> That's about normal, why in the sam hell are you using that heavy ass double chain set up?? Come on man get it together. On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 08:29:26 AM EST, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer".? Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT, I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned! Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Tue Nov 26 10:32:59 2019 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:32:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Not a Triumph for Sale Message-ID: <67929DF2-5055-45C1-94C9-61FEE72F64E4@me.com> A friend of mine is going to sell his 1964 E type coupe, numbers matching, opalescent silver blue, original color, restored by Terry Lippincott. He?s thinking about $135k. Just north of Philadelphia PA. Beautiful car. Let me know if you want an introduction before it goes to a consignor or on BAT. I sold my 69 25 years ago. Oops. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4328.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 91965 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3182.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 189682 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Nov 26 10:33:10 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:33:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question References: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422@mail.yahoo.com> Damned right, my 1300 small-crank has always had a single row chain, for that reason, that double-row setup is heavy.At 6-8 hour TBO, the chain & tensioner were routine replacement anyhow.Also not all chains & tensioners are created equal, some vendors are now offering quality chains as an option, and the tensioners should be plated, they last a lot longer. Glen heavy ass double chain set up?? -----Original Message----- From: Rick Parent via Fot To: fot ; Mathieu W. Huovinen ; Robert Lang Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 9:28 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question That's about normal, why in the sam hell are you using that heavy ass double chain set up?? Come on man get it together. On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 08:29:26 AM EST, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer".? Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT,I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned!Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Wed Nov 27 05:17:09 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 13:17:09 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <488929084.42707901.1574857029546.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> If the chain tensioner is badly worn (deep grooves) after a short time, this is a sign that the chain is moving wildly. This can happen when the chain gears are not properly aligned : aligning the gears is very important and should be checked when a billet steel crankshaft or non original gears (Vernier camshaft gear) are fitted. I don't know for the Spitfire chain tensioner, but the TR 4 cyl tensioner does next to nothing for keeping the chain quietly. Does someone know of a trick to replace this very weak tensioner with something stronger, or a tensioner that is working with the oil pressure? Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "rick parent" , "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 26 november 2019 18:33:10 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question Damned right, my 1300 small-crank has always had a single row chain, for that reason, that double-row setup is heavy. At 6-8 hour TBO, the chain & tensioner were routine replacement anyhow. Also not all chains & tensioners are created equal, some vendors are now offering quality chains as an option, and the tensioners should be plated, they last a lot longer. Glen heavy ass double chain set up?? -----Original Message----- From: Rick Parent via Fot To: fot ; Mathieu W. Huovinen ; Robert Lang Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 9:28 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question That's about normal, why in the sam hell are you using that heavy ass double chain set up?? Come on man get it together. On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 08:29:26 AM EST, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer". Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya, Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT, I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned! Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang < robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya, Bob Lang 339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together. Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com ] _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net ] _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Nov 27 06:09:03 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 13:09:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <488929084.42707901.1574857029546.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422@mail.yahoo.com> <488929084.42707901.1574857029546.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <353385799.3909565.1574860143901@mail.yahoo.com> Yes the alignment is another good point, misalignment can eat up a chain and set of gears quickly.The tensioner design is fine for a stock engine but it's just another point where we're pushing it way beyond design limits.Ideally it should have a spring/oil pressure pad ala MG, Jaguar, etc.Making the best of a bad situation, good quality gears and chain, and a plated tensioner, will last a long time.I also polish the free end of the tensioner where it slides on the inside of the timing cover, some have very rough sharp edges and will "scrape" right through the cover.(Yeah some of you are nodding your head and laughing at memories of elusive oil leaks...)Glen -----Original Message----- From: van.mulders.marcel To: fubog1 Cc: fot Sent: Wed, Nov 27, 2019 7:17 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question If? the chain tensioner is badly worn (deep grooves) after a short time, this is a sign that the chain is moving wildly. This can happen when the chain gears are not properly aligned : aligning the gears is very important and should be checked when a billet steel crankshaft or non original gears (Vernier camshaft gear) are fitted. I don't know for the Spitfire chain tensioner, but the TR 4 cyl? tensioner does next to nothing for keeping? the chain quietly. Does someone know of a trick to replace this very weak tensioner with something stronger, or a tensioner that is working with the oil pressure??Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "rick parent" , "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 26 november 2019 18:33:10 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question Damned right, my 1300 small-crank has always had a single row chain, for that reason, that double-row setup is heavy.At 6-8 hour TBO, the chain & tensioner were routine replacement anyhow.Also not all chains & tensioners are created equal, some vendors are now offering quality chains as an option, and the tensioners should be plated, they last a lot longer. Glen heavy ass double chain set up?? -----Original Message----- From: Rick Parent via Fot To: fot ; Mathieu W. Huovinen ; Robert Lang Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 9:28 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question That's about normal, why in the sam hell are you using that heavy ass double chain set up?? Come on man get it together. On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 08:29:26 AM EST, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer".? Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT,I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned!Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From macdonaldp at rogers.com Wed Nov 27 08:34:54 2019 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 10:34:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Huffaker TR8 coupe Clone References: <009901d5a538$395067a0$abf136e0$.ref@rogers.com> Message-ID: <009901d5a538$395067a0$abf136e0$@rogers.com> It appears that the car is now for sale, I have a bit more info if anyone wants to follow up. Car appears to be a high quality build, dry sump engine, round fender flare Huffaker body, $8-10K. Car needs to be raced. Paul From: Joe Guinan [mailto:joeg at neb.rr.com] Sent: August 5, 2019 4:45 PM To: 'Paul MacDonald' Cc: gregoryallansharpe at yahoo.com Subject: RE: [Fot] Questions about TR8 Race Car Very cool. That?s good info. Thanks, Paul. From: Paul MacDonald Sent: Monday, August 5, 2019 1:46 PM To: 'MACDONALD' ; 'Joe Guinan' Cc: gregoryallansharpe at yahoo.com Subject: RE: [Fot] Questions about TR8 Race Car Posted some info https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/motorsports-forum.22/tr-8-gt1-huffaker-clone.1637638/ Paul From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MACDONALD via Fot Sent: August 4, 2019 9:49 AM To: Joe Guinan Cc: gregoryallansharpe at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Questions about TR8 Race Car I have a bunch of info on the car. Talked to Chuck a number of times over the past 10 -15 years. Will share what I have, when I get to my pc. Paul Sent from my iPhone On Aug 4, 2019, at 9:33 AM, Joe Guinan via Fot wrote: Possible GT1 Huffaker Clone ? Greg Sharpe is asking questions in The Triumph Experience ?Motorsports? forum Link - https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/motorsports-forum22/tr-8-gt1-huffaker-clone.1637638/ I know almost nothing about these, so suggested we might find some FOT members with information. If you are interested in providing any information, please follow the link and post on the forum or reply directly to Greg at gregoryallansharpe at yahoo.com. Thanks in advance! Joe Guinan Fremont, Nebraska _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://wwwfot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/macdonaldp at rogers.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Wed Nov 27 20:35:58 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 20:35:58 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Happy Thanksgiving! Message-ID: <01c66a65-e8e1-06e2-0476-100ff072b145@bradakis.com> For those of you who celebrate the occasion, enjoy!? And remember to set your scales back 10 pounds before you go to bed, in anticipation of the big meal. mjb. From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Nov 29 11:39:19 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2019 18:39:19 +0000 Subject: [Fot] MORE FOT SWAG In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: FWIW, Lands Ends business is running a black Friday deal today only. Free embroidery AND 25% off. Use code "EBLACKFRIDAY" at checkout. Sorry Brian. ? Marty ________________________________ From: marty Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2019 4:37 PM To: FOT Subject: Re: FOT SWAG I'm sure everybody will want to be looking their finest at the 2020 Kastner Cup. So, just a reminder that FOT has their own storefront at Lands End Business. I received a call from them today and they are running a 25% off sale through December 4th. Somewhere at the end of your order you will have a spot to plug in code "OUT4" in a box to claim your discount. Don't expect bulk t-shirt prices, there stuff is nice, the embroidery is top notch and most importantly you can order one of. Below is my original email explaining how to order. Marty ________________________________ From: marty Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 8:50 PM To: FOT Subject: FOT SWAG Ok boys and girls. We now have the ability of purchasing FOT bling. There is now a FOT store front on the Lands End Business website. See the instructions below for a link. This is for getting the FOT logo embroidered on any item in their catalog. It is not for silk screened items. I am starting with the black and white coat of arms that was used in the 2012 special shirt run. Once you run through the sequence a time or two it is pretty simple. I have tried to explain it below. I have used Land Ends Business for other car clubs store fronts and it is top quality and best of all you can return things. Give it a try. Marty Sukey 1, go to https://business.landsend.com/store/fot/ 2, set up an account for yourself and log in. 3, pick an item you might want. 4, click on apply logo, 5, select the FOT logo, 6,if you want, select change colors. Here you can experiment with changing colors on the logo to better suit the color of shirt you pick. If you hit select new colors you will get a drop down with multiple boxes. Try putting a different color in each box and see how it effects the logo. Then you can tweak it as needed. 7, select location. 8, hit apply logo. 9, hit cancel or add to bag. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sat Nov 30 04:58:08 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 12:58:08 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads Message-ID: <976471692.58670073.1575115088433.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> I've some problems with a TR6 race engine : the engine is pinking and overheating. Compression ratio is 12.5. Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference between 6 cylinder heads. Does anyone know which cars do have which cylinderheads? Can I add these passages on my cylinderhead, hoping for better cooling? I've been working on this engine now and then since 2 years. It belongs to a racecar a friend of mine has built. He has lost interest in this racing project and I bought the car. I'd like to see it on a racetrack some day. Marcel -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gt6steve at aol.com Sat Nov 30 08:35:14 2019 From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 15:35:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads References: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> Are you running a restrictor in the T-stat housing? ?I ended up with one with a hole about the size of a dime. ?Made a huge difference. ?Also the highest pressure cap you can find Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, November 30, 2019,?van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot??wrote: I've some problems with a?TR6 race engine : the engine is pinking and overheating. Compression ratio is 12.5. Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. Does anyone know which cars do have which cylinderheads? Can I add these passages on my cylinderhead, hoping for better cooling? I've been working on this engine now and then since 2 years. It belongs to a racecar a friend of mine has built. He has lost interest in this racing project and I bought the car. I'd like to see it on a racetrack some day. Marcel_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Nov 30 08:50:06 2019 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 08:50:06 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> References: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping for an earlier head that still has all the passages. TeriAnn Who knows nothing about TR6 heads From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sat Nov 30 09:08:15 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 17:08:15 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: References: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <807951668.59641828.1575130095427.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> That's interesting and may well be the reason. The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. Marcel ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- Van: "fot" Aan: "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping for an earlier head that still has all the passages. TeriAnn Who knows nothing about TR6 heads _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Nov 30 09:55:54 2019 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 09:55:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: <807951668.59641828.1575130095427.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> <807951668.59641828.1575130095427.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: On 11/30/19 9:08 AM, van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be wrote: > That's interesting and may well be the reason. > The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. > Marcel There are usually thin walls between water passages and exhaust passage ways and the spaces around the combustion chambers follow curves. It is not just a straight drilled hole. I suggest you chalk up your existing head as practice and start again with an earlier head. TeriAnn > > ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- > Van: "fot" > Aan: "fot" > Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 > Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads > > Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head > (probably also from a TR6 , but from a?? Triumph saloon is also possible) > : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My > cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other > cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of > this difference?? between 6 cylinder heads. > > > Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking > in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their > engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing > coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or > eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head > intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping > for an earlier head that still has all the passages. > > TeriAnn > Who knows nothing about TR6 heads > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 30 10:54:39 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 12:54:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43CD99DE-E68B-486F-95EA-26AA7CBF9889@aol.com> Make certain that the gasket also has the accommodating holes! Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 30, 2019, at 11:56 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot wrote: > > ? > On 11/30/19 9:08 AM, van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be wrote: >> That's interesting and may well be the reason. >> The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. >> Marcel > There are usually thin walls between water passages and exhaust passage ways and the spaces around the combustion chambers follow curves. It is not just a straight drilled hole. > > I suggest you chalk up your existing head as practice and start again with an earlier head. > > TeriAnn > > > > > >> >> ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- >> Van: "fot" >> Aan: "fot" >> Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 >> Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads >> >> Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head >> (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) >> : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My >> cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other >> cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of >> this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. >> >> >> Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking >> in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their >> engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing >> coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or >> eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head >> intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping >> for an earlier head that still has all the passages. >> >> TeriAnn >> Who knows nothing about TR6 heads >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 30 10:54:39 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 12:54:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43CD99DE-E68B-486F-95EA-26AA7CBF9889@aol.com> Make certain that the gasket also has the accommodating holes! Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 30, 2019, at 11:56 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot wrote: > > ? > On 11/30/19 9:08 AM, van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be wrote: >> That's interesting and may well be the reason. >> The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. >> Marcel > There are usually thin walls between water passages and exhaust passage ways and the spaces around the combustion chambers follow curves. It is not just a straight drilled hole. > > I suggest you chalk up your existing head as practice and start again with an earlier head. > > TeriAnn > > > > > >> >> ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- >> Van: "fot" >> Aan: "fot" >> Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 >> Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads >> >> Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head >> (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) >> : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My >> cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other >> cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of >> this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. >> >> >> Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking >> in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their >> engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing >> coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or >> eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head >> intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping >> for an earlier head that still has all the passages. >> >> TeriAnn >> Who knows nothing about TR6 heads >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sat Nov 30 12:01:34 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 20:01:34 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: <43CD99DE-E68B-486F-95EA-26AA7CBF9889@aol.com> References: <43CD99DE-E68B-486F-95EA-26AA7CBF9889@aol.com> Message-ID: <906682385.60352749.1575140494131.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Phill, Mordy Dunst made the plain copper gaskets for me, together with steel O-rings. I asked him to NOT make the coolant passages in the gaskets. That's the reason why it took so long to notice that my cylinderhead has fewer passages! I think I'm going to drill the missing holes in the cylinderhead (and in the gasket!). Teri Ann, I would have to drill from beneath toward the water passage in the bottom left of your picture : it seems not to be very delicate. Probably the casting is the same for earlier and later cylinderheads, only the drillings and machining are different? The holes I have to drill are in line with the holes for the studs and the TR6 cyl head is similar with the picture. Marcel Van: "Phil Gott" Aan: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" Cc: "van mulders marcel" , "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 18:54:39 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads Make certain that the gasket also has the accommodating holes! Sent from my iPhone On Nov 30, 2019, at 11:56 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot wrote: BQ_BEGIN BQ_END On 11/30/19 9:08 AM, [ mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] wrote: BQ_BEGIN That's interesting and may well be the reason. The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. Marcel BQ_END There are usually thin walls between water passages and exhaust passage ways and the spaces around the combustion chambers follow curves. It is not just a straight drilled hole. I suggest you chalk up your existing head as practice and start again with an earlier head. TeriAnn BQ_BEGIN ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- Van: "fot" [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | ] Aan: "fot" [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | ] Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a?? Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference?? between 6 cylinder heads. Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping for an earlier head that still has all the passages. TeriAnn Who knows nothing about TR6 heads BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Fri Nov 1 05:16:52 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 12:16:52 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 In-Reply-To: <321072713.2631548.1572560173031@mail.yahoo.com> References: <4F17362B-53A2-410B-943E-CC756DE02222@me.com> <2070172059.354903.1572551433986@myemail.cox.net> <321072713.2631548.1572560173031@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1176759451.142358840.1572607012964.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> For a TR6 engine, I used Isky valve springs VWE005SP116 With 320lbs/in rate (5.72kgs/mm). With an installed height of 33.8mm and full open height of 21.3mm, seat pressure is 34kgs (about 75 lbs) and 105kgs (230lbs) at full lift. So lift is 12.5mm/0.49in and then the seat pressure is already rather low. Coil bind height of these springs is about 18mm so a bit more lift is possible. It there is enough material thickness, the seats for the springs can be reamed out to get the necessary clearance between the windings. Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: spitlist at cox.net, "Scott Janzen" , "fot" Verzonden: Donderdag 31 oktober 2019 23:16:13 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 Try British Frame and Engine. They are not as stiff as the Isky Springs, but can tolerate more lift. Be sure you have adequate seat pressure as well as sufficient pressure at full lift, per your cam specs. These work well with the Tilden 298 cam from Ken Knight. -----Original Message----- From: JOE CURRY via Fot To: Scott Janzen ; Scott Janzen via Fot Sent: Thu, Oct 31, 2019 4:19 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 I bought my Isky dual spring set through Ted Schumacher to match his cam that he also sold me. Works great. Talk to him about the details. On October 31, 2019 at 11:49 AM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: I?m trying to accommodate a high lift cam/rocker combination and the Isky springs (VWE005/SP116) I?ve been using will be right at full bind with this combo. What are you all using - I?m looking for something that can handle about 0.54? of net valve lift. Let me know what spring mfr/part number you are using and I?ll take it from there. Thanks! BQ_BEGIN _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net BQ_END _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Nov 1 11:30:22 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 17:30:22 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 2020 KASTNER CUP SECOND CALL / and some updates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Now that its November I'll give some updating. I have had replies to the email below from 30 drivers. That's a good start. ?. If you are planning on racing at the Kastner Cup next June and have not replied please do so, or if you know any triumph racers that aren't on the internet thingy please reply on their behalf. This will help greatly with planning, both with my working with SVRA and some internal FOT planning. I don't want to leave anybody out. There was some questions regarding staying at the track in your rigs. I spoke to Mid-Ohio this morning and they said staying in your RV in the paddock was not an issue. There was no mention of any additional cost associated with this. RV, van, trailer, whose to judge. ?. There are no electric hookups in our paddock. The track does have a dump station near the false grid area. Also the porta john sucker folks will be cruising the paddocks and will empty your tanks in the paddock if so desired. If you have a long haul home I received permission for us to park in the grass area up toward the gate if you want to spend the night and head out in the morning. We just have to clear the paved paddocks as they have a track rental Monday morning. That might be a fun Sunday night FOT party to wrap up the weekend festivities. Marty ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of marty via Fot Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 9:21 AM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] 2020 KASTNER CUP FIRST CALL / info needed! I was going to wait until after the first of the year to do this but figured that it might be a good idea to start now while people are thinking about it and before your rigs are put away for the winter. I had a meeting earlier in the year with SVRA regarding our paddock spots. We will have our own spot on paved surface. Open trailers will be required to park in the grass .It will be in the upper paddock but will be "concentrated" as the paved paddocks are not all that expansive. If it rains a bunch like it did this year and the track closes off the grass paddocks things will get cozy. SVRA will work with us and I have agreed to provide them with some counts and space requirements in advance. Hopefully this will make things go smoother once we arrive. So, here is what I need from you if you are planning on attending. 1) name, 2) tow vehicle size, 3) trailer size, 4) awning/canopy size, 5) will you be staying at the track in your rig? 6) would you be interested in having our own FOT dinner Friday evening for around $25 a head? This is not a commitment to attend on your part but will make the planning process much easier so if you are just thinking you will be there please reply or email me direct at trmarty at hotmail.com. Info will be used to size our paddock and determine how big of tent we will need to rent. The Friday night dinner is just in the investigation stages but I need to know how many people might be interested. This event is looking to be a pretty big deal so I am hoping to do a bunch of pre-event work with SVRA well in advance so things go smoothly once we arrive. Thanks, Marty Sukey -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Fri Nov 1 19:41:01 2019 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (rkramer56) Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2019 20:41:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 race car for sale Message-ID: <5dbcdeae.1c69fb81.c66de.77a4@mx.google.com> I don't know if anyone gas seen the TR4 race car for sale on Facebook. You can contact the seller at:stevedowningdevelopment at gmail.comSent from my Galaxy Tab? S2 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From awashatko at wi.rr.com Sat Nov 2 14:11:47 2019 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 15:11:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Radiator Message-ID: <0FFF0BBA-07C5-4334-9470-452D22C7D66A@wi.rr.com> FoT?ers I have a TR6 radiator that is in very good condition if anyone is interested. Allen Sent from my iPhone From my71spit13 at yahoo.com Sun Nov 3 07:15:18 2019 From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 14:15:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 102, Issue 271 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1404345986.874510.1572790518184@mail.yahoo.com> If anyone needs more info on the racer TR4, I am in Des Moines and Steve Downing is a friend. Fyi... Shawn Frank The Vintage Triumph Magazine - Editor North American Triumphs (FKA Spitfire & GT6 Magazine) - Owner Des Moines Concours d'Elegance - Recruiting Chair Continued Legacy Photo - Owner Iowa British Car Club FOT/VTR#94692/NASS#746 Drive Away Cancer Iowa - Driver 515-339-4228 '71 Triumph Spitfire MKIV "Gertrude" '72 Triumph GT6 MK3 '65 Triumph TR4A "Johnny" On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 1:00 PM, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote: Send Fot mailing list submissions to ??? fot at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? fot-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? fot-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Fot digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. TR4 race car for sale (rkramer56) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2019 20:41:01 -0500 From: rkramer56 To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] TR4 race car for sale Message-ID: <5dbcdeae.1c69fb81.c66de.77a4 at mx.google.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I don't know if anyone gas seen the TR4 race car for sale on Facebook. You can contact the seller at:stevedowningdevelopment at gmail.comSent from my Galaxy Tab? S2 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot ------------------------------ End of Fot Digest, Vol 102, Issue 271 ************************************* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Sun Nov 3 07:53:22 2019 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 08:53:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 rolling frame needed Message-ID: I showed Marc MaGahee around my TR collection Friday. He is planning on building an Ambro TR4. While I have a couple of complete cars he could use what he really needs is a rolling chassis. It?ll save a salvageable car. There is a TR3 and a 4A IRS rolling chassis with mechanicals for sale right now but not a live axle. Anyone know if a similar TR4, preferably later years? Sent from my iPhone From dlhogye at comcast.net Sun Nov 3 08:30:19 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 07:30:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR4 rolling frame needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1010125570.315746.1572795020219@connect.xfinity.com> I know where there are two TR4 solid axle frames. One is bare and one is rolling. They are pre-4A. They are located is Los Gatos, CA. There is also a fairly complete TR3B. Dave H. 831-234-4928 > On November 3, 2019 at 6:53 AM Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > > I showed Marc MaGahee around my TR collection Friday. He is planning on building an Ambro TR4. While I have a couple of complete cars he could use what he really needs is a rolling chassis. It?ll save a salvageable car. There is a TR3 and a 4A IRS rolling chassis with mechanicals for sale right now but not a live axle. Anyone know if a similar TR4, preferably later years? > > Sent from my iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > From ofracer at gmail.com Mon Nov 4 06:49:01 2019 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 08:49:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] SVRA Watkins Glen NON Reimbursement In-Reply-To: <635108642.808954.1572089744090@mail.yahoo.com> References: <635108642.808954.1572089744090@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I called Kathy last week and was entered for the K Cup, with the WG credit, in less than 5 minutes. thanks mike h On Sat, Oct 26, 2019 at 7:36 AM Rick Parent via Fot wrote: > May I suggest you guys get a hold of Kathy kathy at svra she would be glad > to take care of you and if you feel the need tony at svra.com > > Rick > > On Friday, October 25, 2019, 07:55:36 PM EDT, John Styduhar via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > Brian, thank you for the explanation because I was unable to reach anyone > with SVRA that could provide one. I will wait and see if Tony keeps his > promise. > > On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 3:37 PM Brian Schirano > wrote: > > Interesting coincidence, I just followed up with Tony this morning, > responded almost immediately with "we put a credit on account. Not your > credit card. Checks will not go out until we finished this weekends year > end event at savannah" > > Brian > > On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 3:06 PM John Styduhar via Fot > wrote: > > Did any TR drivers who entered the SVRA event at Watkins Glen and > requested a cash reimbursement from SVRA receive their check yet.? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Mon Nov 4 07:33:28 2019 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 14:33:28 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's Message-ID: <152090bde0ad467f8eb342d0159fb287@dieselperformanceparts.com> Morning Triumph Crazies, Can ambone tell me the ID dimension of the crankshaft pilot busing hole for an early 1296CC Spitfire crankshaft?? I am trying to get some pilot bearings machined to fit a transmission swap and need the OD of the crankshaft pilot bearing as well as the depth if anyone has that It would be HUGLY appreciated. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Mon Nov 4 07:59:20 2019 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 14:59:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's In-Reply-To: <89749706-75d1-b002-3af5-b8bdaf54a2de@bright.net> References: <152090bde0ad467f8eb342d0159fb287@dieselperformanceparts.com> <89749706-75d1-b002-3af5-b8bdaf54a2de@bright.net> Message-ID: Yep I was sort of sure on that but I don't have any around to measure. Thanks though. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: Ted Schumacher [mailto:tedtsimx at bright.net] Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 8:53 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's Mark. the dimensions are all the same - 1147 through 1500 so if you have any of those around, there is your answer. Ted On 11/4/2019 9:33 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Morning Triumph Crazies, Can ambone tell me the ID dimension of the crankshaft pilot busing hole for an early 1296CC Spitfire crankshaft?? I am trying to get some pilot bearings machined to fit a transmission swap and need the OD of the crankshaft pilot bearing as well as the depth if anyone has that It would be HUGLY appreciated. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx at bright.net -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13119 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 10:04:05 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:04:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's References: <458281986.605196.1572887046344.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <458281986.605196.1572887046344@mail.yahoo.com> The rear chunks make cool table lamp bases.I measured the one here in my office and the hole is ~.750 diameter, and ~1.125 deep.I have a new bush, it measures .752 OD & 1.125 L.Can't help w/exact dimension of the bore diameter. HTHGlen -----Original Message----- From: DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot To: fot-bounces at autox.team.net ; fot at autox.team.net ; DPPI - Mark Craig Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 9:38 am Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's <!-- #yiv6984443301 _filtered #yiv6984443301 {font-family:"Cambria Math";panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6984443301 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6984443301 {font-family:Verdana;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} #yiv6984443301 #yiv6984443301 p.yiv6984443301MsoNormal, #yiv6984443301 li.yiv6984443301MsoNormal, #yiv6984443301 div.yiv6984443301MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} #yiv6984443301 a:link, #yiv6984443301 span.yiv6984443301MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv6984443301 a:visited, #yiv6984443301 span.yiv6984443301MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv6984443301 span.yiv6984443301EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv6984443301 .yiv6984443301MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered #yiv6984443301 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #yiv6984443301 div.yiv6984443301WordSection1 {} -->Morning Triumph Crazies, ? Can ambone tell me the ID dimension of the crankshaft pilot busing hole for an early 1296CC Spitfire crankshaft?? I am trying to get some pilot bearings machined to fit a transmission swap and need the OD of the crankshaft pilot bearing as well as the depth if anyone has that It would be HUGLY appreciated. ? | | ? | Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com ? | ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: not available URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Mon Nov 4 10:21:20 2019 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:21:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's In-Reply-To: <458281986.605196.1572887046344@mail.yahoo.com> References: <458281986.605196.1572887046344.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <458281986.605196.1572887046344@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <46883eec07ff4d32bf72afc4db23f4ef@dieselperformanceparts.com> Glen you be da man thanks!!!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: fubog1 [mailto:fubog1 at aol.com] Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 11:04 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig ; fot-bounces at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's The rear chunks make cool table lamp bases. I measured the one here in my office and the hole is ~.750 diameter, and ~1.125 deep.I have a new bush, it measures .752 OD & 1.125 L. Can't help w/exact dimension of the bore diameter. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot > To: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >; fot at autox.team.net >; DPPI - Mark Craig > Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 9:38 am Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's Morning Triumph Crazies, Can ambone tell me the ID dimension of the crankshaft pilot busing hole for an early 1296CC Spitfire crankshaft?? I am trying to get some pilot bearings machined to fit a transmission swap and need the OD of the crankshaft pilot bearing as well as the depth if anyone has that It would be HUGLY appreciated. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Mon Nov 4 10:30:18 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:30:18 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Looking for some GT6 rear wishbones Message-ID: Anybody have some GT6 rear wishbones they'd like to sell? I am missing a set for the GT6 racer. Scott (B.) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Nov 4 10:32:28 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:32:28 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup Message-ID: It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again. Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon Nov 4 11:13:58 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 11:13:58 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I wish that I were attending as a driver and not just a speck tater.? Not making much progress on getting Killer put back together.? Sigh. mjb. From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 13:38:03 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 20:38:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera.He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup #yiv5513189883 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also? be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again.? Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Nov 4 13:40:57 2019 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 20:40:57 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup In-Reply-To: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <539B476F-16C4-4E12-9859-75651869A18D@mhc-law.com> Way over my head! Sent from my iPhone On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: ? Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera. He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again. Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Nov 4 13:41:30 2019 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 14:41:30 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup In-Reply-To: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 2:38 PM fubog1 via Fot wrote: ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! > > 10-4, Chief. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Nov 4 13:43:52 2019 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 15:43:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup In-Reply-To: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: ooh, are we having valve cover races? Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera. He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again. Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 13:56:24 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 20:56:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup Sir Stan Part In-Reply-To: <751423007.702489.1572900752651@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> <751423007.702489.1572900752651@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1826488400.686427.1572900984736@mail.yahoo.com> Stan has been known to take on any & all challengers but remains undefeated, aside from a few questionable races with JK Jacksons electric machine...Rules?No steenkin' rules, just has to be based on a TR valve cover.Glen Link to a short video if it goes through- https://vimeo.com/210488591 the convenient link -----Original Message----- From: Scott Janzen via Fot To: fubog1 Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 3:44 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup ooh, are we having valve cover races? ?Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera.He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup #yiv6488750140 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also? be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again.? Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 13:56:24 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 20:56:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup Sir Stan Part In-Reply-To: <751423007.702489.1572900752651@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> <751423007.702489.1572900752651@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1826488400.686427.1572900984736@mail.yahoo.com> Stan has been known to take on any & all challengers but remains undefeated, aside from a few questionable races with JK Jacksons electric machine...Rules?No steenkin' rules, just has to be based on a TR valve cover.Glen Link to a short video if it goes through- https://vimeo.com/210488591 the convenient link -----Original Message----- From: Scott Janzen via Fot To: fubog1 Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 3:44 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup ooh, are we having valve cover races? ?Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera.He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup #yiv6488750140 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also? be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again.? Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at linneyweb.com Mon Nov 4 14:38:02 2019 From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 13:38:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] 6 Italias video Message-ID: <292FC9CE-1E22-4C42-A500-A28BA9713C26@linneyweb.com> If a TR3 wasn?t a TR3, what could it be? Salvatore Ruffino asked that question some years before the TR4 came along, and the Italia, by Michelotti, was his answer. My latest film tells the story of 6 of the 330 that were ultimately produced by Vignale. They gathered together at Concorso Italiano during Monterey Car Week, and I was very generously helped by the owners to make this film.. I hope you it! -john https://youtu.be/oTH3lc7eJM0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Nov 4 14:44:23 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:44:23 +0000 Subject: [Fot] FOT valve cover racing In-Reply-To: References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: If somebody wants to chair this, it would be fun. Just keep me in the loop please. Marty ________________________________ From: Scott Janzen Sent: Monday, November 4, 2019 3:43 PM To: fubog1 Cc: trmarty at hotmail.com ; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup ooh, are we having valve cover races? Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot > wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera. He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot > To: FOT > Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again. Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 15:13:59 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 22:13:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] FOT valve cover racing In-Reply-To: References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <391171675.708272.1572905639850@mail.yahoo.com> I'm JAFO... but I am in charge of handling scheduling for "Thunderpower".The only confusion would be those run on a course, or like "Thunder", it's straight line only...Glen -----Original Message----- From: marty To: Scott Janzen ; fubog1 Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 4:44 pm Subject: FOT valve cover racing #yiv1631411795 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}If somebody wants to chair this, it would be fun. Just keep me in the loop please. Marty From: Scott Janzen Sent: Monday, November 4, 2019 3:43 PM To: fubog1 Cc: trmarty at hotmail.com ; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup?ooh, are we having valve cover races? ?Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now hasan automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera.He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also? be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again.? Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Mon Nov 4 17:20:26 2019 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 19:20:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] SVRA Watkins Glen NON Reimbursement In-Reply-To: References: <635108642.808954.1572089744090@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Kathy Swinford also called me today and reconciled my SVRA account and the WG reimbursement stuff so I feel better now. On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 8:49 AM Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > I called Kathy last week and was entered for the K Cup, with the WG > credit, in less than 5 minutes. > > thanks > mike h > > On Sat, Oct 26, 2019 at 7:36 AM Rick Parent via Fot > wrote: > >> May I suggest you guys get a hold of Kathy kathy at svra she would be glad >> to take care of you and if you feel the need tony at svra.com >> >> Rick >> >> On Friday, October 25, 2019, 07:55:36 PM EDT, John Styduhar via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> >> Brian, thank you for the explanation because I was unable to reach anyone >> with SVRA that could provide one. I will wait and see if Tony keeps his >> promise. >> >> On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 3:37 PM Brian Schirano >> wrote: >> >> Interesting coincidence, I just followed up with Tony this morning, >> responded almost immediately with "we put a credit on account. Not your >> credit card. Checks will not go out until we finished this weekends year >> end event at savannah" >> >> Brian >> >> On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 3:06 PM John Styduhar via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Did any TR drivers who entered the SVRA event at Watkins Glen and >> requested a cash reimbursement from SVRA receive their check yet.? >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1959triumphtr3a at gmail.com Mon Nov 4 18:22:31 2019 From: 1959triumphtr3a at gmail.com (Ken Gano) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 19:22:31 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 6 Italias video In-Reply-To: <292FC9CE-1E22-4C42-A500-A28BA9713C26@linneyweb.com> References: <292FC9CE-1E22-4C42-A500-A28BA9713C26@linneyweb.com> Message-ID: <77AC91D4-273C-4A82-A131-203F550B16D9@gmail.com> Good stuff. Thanks for sharing. Ken Gano Sent from my iPad > On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:48 PM, John Linney via Fot wrote: > > ?If a TR3 wasn?t a TR3, what could it be? Salvatore Ruffino asked that question some years before the TR4 came along, and the Italia, by Michelotti, was his answer. My latest film tells the story of 6 of the 330 that were ultimately produced by Vignale. They gathered together at Concorso Italiano during Monterey Car Week, and I was very generously helped by the owners to make this film.. > > I hope you it! > > -john > > https://youtu.be/oTH3lc7eJM0 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/1959triumphtr3a at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 5 08:45:24 2019 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 15:45:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I will have no need in the future. By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank trigger for my primary ignition system.? I also tried to have a reliable back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas Points.? But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul Trapp, who I'm sure some of you know.? He was a real genius with all kinds of engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times).? He mentioned that he had used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he had worked on.? The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other Datsun/Nissan small sedans.? While we were on the phone, he had me get a stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper.? He had the Datsun distributor.? We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two distributors, and they were nearly identical.? The diameter of the shaft that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was required to get the correct height for the Triumph. >From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger.? The only modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height.? An easy conversion.? Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the dual system. When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a spare lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun distributor, and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box.? I used a stock Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time.? Some people us an MSD, etc.? Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in the attached pictures. I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up specifically for me.? So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let me know, and you can have it.? I will even pay the shipping (to the lower 48).? I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Distributor Lead Wire.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1960331 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Distributor wire connector.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1628030 bytes Desc: not available URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Tue Nov 5 08:59:21 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 09:59:21 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away Message-ID: I?d try it. Thanks. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Nov 5, 2019, at 9:55 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Nov 5 09:05:53 2019 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 10:05:53 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Blackhawk Farms race videos Message-ID: Here are videos from my last race weekend from October 13.? The are in order by level of interest / action (best first). Best race (race 3, Feature) - good battling with Sean Alexander, passing and re-passing until his fuel pump gives up the ghost late in the race: https://youtu.be/nT1liwCUO1o Nearly as good (race 2, Sprint), less passing but still thrilling - again battling with Sean, again he drops out due to the fuel pump (which they didn't realize what the problem was since it started working again): https://youtu.be/YlFH5wMxAgk Decent race, first few laps are the best, close racing but not much passing after the first few laps - (race 1, Heat): https://youtu.be/EBbyJii60HM And lastly, the pursuit race that ended the weekend.? The passing is of slower cars or by faster cars, so no real "battling", just driving fast: https://youtu.be/9fSoj93yll8 Regards, Tony Drews From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 5 09:27:31 2019 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 16:27:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1332127734.1645794.1572971251814@mail.yahoo.com> I don't have any heads, but I'll bet someone on the FOT list knows where there is one. Jack On Tuesday, November 5, 2019, 11:16:21 AM EST, Alan Berry wrote: Need a TR4 head for my race car. Any thoughts? Thanks,? Alan #41 TR4A On Tue, Nov 5, 2019, 7:57 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I will have no need in the future. By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank trigger for my primary ignition system.? I also tried to have a reliable back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas Points.? But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul Trapp, who I'm sure some of you know.? He was a real genius with all kinds of engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times).? He mentioned that he had used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he had worked on.? The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other Datsun/Nissan small sedans.? While we were on the phone, he had me get a stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper.? He had the Datsun distributor.? We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two distributors, and they were nearly identical.? The diameter of the shaft that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was required to get the correct height for the Triumph. >From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger.? The only modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height.? An easy conversion.? Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the dual system. When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a spare lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun distributor, and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box.? I used a stock Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time.? Some people us an MSD, etc.? Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in the attached pictures. I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up specifically for me.? So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let me know, and you can have it.? I will even pay the shipping (to the lower 48).? I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alanb at alanberrydesign.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Nov 5 10:09:45 2019 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 11:09:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Where does one buy twisted pair wire like that? Bob Kramer On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 10:12 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I > will have no need in the future. > > By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank > trigger for my primary ignition system. I also tried to have a reliable > back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas > Points. But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the > back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. > > Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul Trapp, > who I'm sure some of you know. He was a real genius with all kinds of > engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times). He mentioned that he had > used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he had > worked on. The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other > Datsun/Nissan small sedans. While we were on the phone, he had me get a > stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper. He had the Datsun > distributor. We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two > distributors, and they were nearly identical. The diameter of the shaft > that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that > shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was > required to get the correct height for the Triumph. > > From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and > the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger. The only > modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, > and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height. An easy > conversion. Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the > dual system. > > When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a spare > lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun distributor, > and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box. I used a stock > Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time. Some people us an MSD, > etc. Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in the > attached pictures. > > I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up > specifically for me. So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let > me know, and you can have it. I will even pay the shipping (to the lower > 48). I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan > distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bownes at web9.com Tue Nov 5 11:10:29 2019 From: bownes at web9.com (robert bownes) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 12:10:29 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You buy stranded wire, lay out and cut two pieces, chuck one end up in a hand drill, the other end in a vise and twist it. :) On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 11:19 AM Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > Where does one buy twisted pair wire like that? > > > Bob Kramer > > > On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 10:12 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot > wrote: > >> I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I >> will have no need in the future. >> >> By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank >> trigger for my primary ignition system. I also tried to have a reliable >> back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas >> Points. But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the >> back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. >> >> Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul Trapp, >> who I'm sure some of you know. He was a real genius with all kinds of >> engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times). He mentioned that he had >> used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he had >> worked on. The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other >> Datsun/Nissan small sedans. While we were on the phone, he had me get a >> stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper. He had the Datsun >> distributor. We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two >> distributors, and they were nearly identical. The diameter of the shaft >> that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that >> shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was >> required to get the correct height for the Triumph. >> >> From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and >> the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger. The only >> modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, >> and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height. An easy >> conversion. Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the >> dual system. >> >> When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a >> spare lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun >> distributor, and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box. I >> used a stock Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time. Some people >> us an MSD, etc. Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in >> the attached pictures. >> >> I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up >> specifically for me. So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let >> me know, and you can have it. I will even pay the shipping (to the lower >> 48). I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan >> distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. >> >> Jack >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Nov 5 11:20:24 2019 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 12:20:24 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I guess that would do it. But that stuff in Jack's picture looks like it might have some kind of gluing to it based on the cut off end. Bob Kramer On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 12:10 PM robert bownes wrote: > You buy stranded wire, lay out and cut two pieces, chuck one end up in a > hand drill, the other end in a vise and twist it. :) > > > On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 11:19 AM Bob Kramer via Fot > wrote: > >> Where does one buy twisted pair wire like that? >> >> >> Bob Kramer >> >> >> On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 10:12 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I >>> will have no need in the future. >>> >>> By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank >>> trigger for my primary ignition system. I also tried to have a reliable >>> back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas >>> Points. But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the >>> back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. >>> >>> Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul >>> Trapp, who I'm sure some of you know. He was a real genius with all kinds >>> of engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times). He mentioned that he >>> had used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he >>> had worked on. The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other >>> Datsun/Nissan small sedans. While we were on the phone, he had me get a >>> stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper. He had the Datsun >>> distributor. We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two >>> distributors, and they were nearly identical. The diameter of the shaft >>> that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that >>> shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was >>> required to get the correct height for the Triumph. >>> >>> From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and >>> the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger. The only >>> modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, >>> and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height. An easy >>> conversion. Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the >>> dual system. >>> >>> When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a >>> spare lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun >>> distributor, and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box. I >>> used a stock Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time. Some people >>> us an MSD, etc. Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in >>> the attached pictures. >>> >>> I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up >>> specifically for me. So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let >>> me know, and you can have it. I will even pay the shipping (to the lower >>> 48). I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan >>> distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. >>> >>> Jack >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage : >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 6t9gt6 at toast.net Tue Nov 5 15:47:44 2019 From: 6t9gt6 at toast.net (Stephen Jones) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:47:44 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 In-Reply-To: <060b01d59425$71909820$54b1c860$@harrisonautodynamics.com> References: <4F17362B-53A2-410B-943E-CC756DE02222@me.com> <43fc639e3f974f2183e15d77bc6292dd@toast.net> <060b01d59425$71909820$54b1c860$@harrisonautodynamics.com> Message-ID: <9331267c00b64b0fabb449058ffaf05e@toast.net> I will look in the brief case for n invoice/packingg slip. S. ---------------------------------------- From: "Chris Harrison" Sent: Tuesday, November 5, 2019 5:27 PM To: 6t9gt6 at toast.net, 'Scott Janzen Chris Harrison' Subject: RE: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 Stephen, Scott I have been digging and all the info I have on the springs we are using is in the briefcase with the car I thought I had copies of the notes here but I can't find them I think we are using a long single spring conical profile from comp #26113 It depends a lot what installed length window you have to work with Are you using high ratio rockers? What cam? There are a number of retainers and keepers to help get it together Chris From: Stephen Jones [mailto:6t9gt6 at toast.net] Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2019 12:18 PM To: Scott Janzen Chris Harrison Subject: re: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 Hi Scott. Per your request. I am a new FOT member. My engine builder and Crew Chief is Chris Harrison at Harrison Auto Dynamics in Phoenix (Anthem) Arizona. "Chris Harrison" ; He my be able to make some suggestions. S. ---------------------------------------- From: "Scott Janzen via Fot" Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2019 2:04 PM To: "Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Subject: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 I'm trying to accommodate a high lift cam/rocker combination and the Isky springs (VWE005/SP116) I've been using will be right at full bind with this combo. What are you all using - I'm looking for something that can handle about 0.54" of net valve lift. Let me know what spring mfr/part number you are using and I'll take it from there. Thanks! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 5 16:11:34 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:11:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You don?t usually see it without the outer jacket, but I found some at Mouser: https://tinyurl.com/y6fzynqs Likely the other big electronic supply houses (eg Allied, Newark, etc) would have something too, but I only checked Mouser. -- Randall From: Bob Kramer via Fot Sent: Tuesday, November 5, 2019 11:09 AM To: Jack Wheeler Cc: FOT List Subject: Re: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away Where does one buy twisted pair wire like that?? Bob Kramer -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at linneyweb.com Tue Nov 5 18:32:06 2019 From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:32:06 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Classic Motor Films Message-ID: I hope you are enjoying my films - I really enjoy making them. I have a huge favor to ask. Please go to my YouTube channel and hit the Subscribe button. You'll then be the first to know as I publish new projects, and it will help me do more of them in the long run too. Thank you all! Click on this link below? https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxfTA8e4ywKA0FjTIsALy-g -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PastedGraphic-3.tiff Type: image/tiff Size: 1517484 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ronmscott1140 at gmail.com Mon Nov 4 19:28:58 2019 From: ronmscott1140 at gmail.com (Ronald Scott) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:28:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Kastner 2020 Message-ID: Marty, I will be driving the S&S #28 73 TR6 which Brian Schirano and I co-own Ron Scott -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don at dcphotos.com Tue Nov 5 09:38:43 2019 From: don at dcphotos.com (don at dcphotos.com) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 10:38:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] head gasket/block question Message-ID: Amici, I?m just back from a great weekend racing Eagles Canyon with CVAR. Car ran well all weekend till final race and the head gasket blew. On the Spitfire blocks are two holes by #1 and #4 I?ve been told they were use at the foundry and they should be filled in. My question is, other than to facilitate the blowing of head gaskets, why does the head gasket have a hole for them in the first place? Thanks, Don From bschirano1 at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 09:36:24 2019 From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 11:36:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations Message-ID: Hi All I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) Some of you know one or more of these guys. Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. There you go Cheers Brian #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jsukey at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 09:42:29 2019 From: jsukey at gmail.com (Jason Sukey) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 11:42:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Second to all! These are our type of people! Jason Sukey On Wed, Nov 6, 2019, 11:37 AM Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby > nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron > will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually > runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and > crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe > Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to > lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Wed Nov 6 10:31:43 2019 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 11:31:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3A5B815F-08F1-40A5-9836-0477DB5C6DF7@att.net> Second and Welcome! Paul > On Nov 6, 2019, at 10:36 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com ) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com ) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com ) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Wed Nov 6 10:31:43 2019 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 11:31:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3A5B815F-08F1-40A5-9836-0477DB5C6DF7@att.net> Second and Welcome! Paul > On Nov 6, 2019, at 10:36 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com ) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com ) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com ) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 11:39:48 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 12:39:48 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <66117BDD-3D4E-401D-A3C0-D0902B27BD83@gmail.com> Yes! To all three. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Nov 6, 2019, at 10:37 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dbm.spitfire at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 11:42:02 2019 From: dbm.spitfire at gmail.com (Doug Mitchell) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 13:42:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Second on all three. On Wed, Nov 6, 2019, 11:37 AM Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby > nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron > will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually > runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and > crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe > Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to > lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dbm.spitfire at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 6 14:33:42 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 21:33:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1530786059.403764.1573076022036@mail.yahoo.com> Second on all counts - WELCOME. Regards,Bob Lang p.s. Hi Art! On Wednesday, November 6, 2019, 11:37:09 AM EST, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: Hi All I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com)Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com)Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) Some of you know one or more of these guys.?Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per yearArt is a true Triumphvirate, former?racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. There you go CheersBrian#26 Blue/White 69 GT6 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Wed Nov 6 11:10:43 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 13:10:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sounds To me like all 3 deserve seconds! Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 6, 2019, at 11:37 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Wed Nov 6 11:10:43 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 13:10:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sounds To me like all 3 deserve seconds! Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 6, 2019, at 11:37 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 07:00:01 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 14:00:01 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Second, second and second. Welcome to the group. Marty ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Brian Schirano via Fot Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 11:36 AM To: FOT Cc: Art Lipp ; Ronald Scott ; Aaron Schirano Subject: [Fot] Nominations Hi All I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) Some of you know one or more of these guys. Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. There you go Cheers Brian #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 15:25:34 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 22:25:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] rain tires References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. ?For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott114 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Nov 7 15:38:58 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 22:38:58 +0000 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Snow Race April 2019.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 166229 bytes Desc: Snow Race April 2019.jpg URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 16:10:59 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 23:10:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> Wow! Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. ?Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! ?After that, everyone had to have them! Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Barr, Scott To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires #yiv3865640528 #yiv3865640528 -- _filtered #yiv3865640528 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv3865640528 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv3865640528 {panose-1:2 11 5 2 2 2 2 2 2 4;} #yiv3865640528 #yiv3865640528 p.yiv3865640528MsoNormal, #yiv3865640528 li.yiv3865640528MsoNormal, #yiv3865640528 div.yiv3865640528MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;} #yiv3865640528 a:link, #yiv3865640528 span.yiv3865640528MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv3865640528 a:visited, #yiv3865640528 span.yiv3865640528MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv3865640528 p.yiv3865640528msonormal0, #yiv3865640528 li.yiv3865640528msonormal0, #yiv3865640528 div.yiv3865640528msonormal0 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;} #yiv3865640528 span.yiv3865640528EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #yiv3865640528 .yiv3865640528MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered #yiv3865640528 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #yiv3865640528 div.yiv3865640528WordSection1 {} #yiv3865640528 I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it).?? Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. ? The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them.? Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. ? Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow.? See photo attached.? ? From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires ? What's the best rain tire? ? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? ? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. ?For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs ? Your thoughts/experience, please! ? Phil Gott 114 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rocky at spitfire4.com Thu Nov 7 16:38:33 2019 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 17:38:33 -0600 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Last I talked to the Hoosier guy, few years back, they were still making the DirtStocker for the HP cars (Spitfire, etc) but not for the ones on larger wheels. Wore ?em for my last race, 2011 Runoffs, Road America, gained 9 places in the wet. --Rocky From: vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10 PM To: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires Wow! Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Barr, Scott To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: wlEmoticon-smile[1].png Type: image/png Size: 1046 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 17:19:50 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 19:19:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0575C127-CE0A-481D-B877-5CE74556E4DA@aol.com> There is a Hoosier ?Full wet? for Spec Miata that would fit..... Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2019, at 6:38 PM, Rocky Entriken wrote: > > ? > Last I talked to the Hoosier guy, few years back, they were still making the DirtStocker for the HP cars (Spitfire, etc) but not for the ones on larger wheels. > > Wore ?em for my last race, 2011 Runoffs, Road America, gained 9 places in the wet. > > > --Rocky > > From: vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10 PM > To: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com ; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires > > Wow! > > Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! > > I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! > > Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Barr, Scott > To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm > Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires > > I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. > > The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. > > Scott (B.) > PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. > > From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] rain tires > > What's the best rain tire? > > I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? > > I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs > > Your thoughts/experience, please! > > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 17:19:50 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 19:19:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0575C127-CE0A-481D-B877-5CE74556E4DA@aol.com> There is a Hoosier ?Full wet? for Spec Miata that would fit..... Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2019, at 6:38 PM, Rocky Entriken wrote: > > ? > Last I talked to the Hoosier guy, few years back, they were still making the DirtStocker for the HP cars (Spitfire, etc) but not for the ones on larger wheels. > > Wore ?em for my last race, 2011 Runoffs, Road America, gained 9 places in the wet. > > > --Rocky > > From: vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10 PM > To: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com ; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires > > Wow! > > Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! > > I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! > > Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Barr, Scott > To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm > Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires > > I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. > > The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. > > Scott (B.) > PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. > > From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] rain tires > > What's the best rain tire? > > I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? > > I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs > > Your thoughts/experience, please! > > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Thu Nov 7 17:45:45 2019 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 00:45:45 +0000 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me Sent from my iPhone On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot wrote: ? What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Nov 7 18:23:51 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 01:23:51 +0000 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> , <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: These Hoosier rains worked pretty well in the snow, actually. Not bad. Scott Barr McCarty Law LLP (920) 257-2233 ________________________________ From: vfracing at aol.com Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10:59 PM To: Barr, Scott ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires Wow! Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Barr, Scott To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Nov 7 18:24:44 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 01:24:44 +0000 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: Loved 'em. I still have an aging set. Scott Barr McCarty Law LLP (920) 257-2233 ________________________________ From: Rocky Entriken Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:38:33 PM To: vfracing at aol.com ; Barr, Scott ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires Last I talked to the Hoosier guy, few years back, they were still making the DirtStocker for the HP cars (Spitfire, etc) but not for the ones on larger wheels. Wore ?em for my last race, 2011 Runoffs, Road America, gained 9 places in the wet. [Smile] --Rocky From: vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10 PM To: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires Wow! Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Barr, Scott To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A ________________________________ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: wlEmoticon-smile[1].png Type: image/png Size: 1046 bytes Desc: wlEmoticon-smile[1].png URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 18:53:37 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 20:53:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <603D94A1-8FEE-46D7-89EB-7C3000C99FC8@aol.com> Yes, John; the series I normally run (Historic Race Group) allows up to 8 inches, but the 7s fit better given my flares. As we can prepare up to the ?83 rules, SVRA often puts us in the ?N.C.? or Non Conforming category. That way they get their entry fee and we can play, but we don?t take points away from cars that meet SVRA rules. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2019, at 7:45 PM, John H. Hasty wrote: > > ? Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> What's the best rain tire? >> >> I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? >> >> I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs >> >> Your thoughts/experience, please! >> >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 18:53:37 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 20:53:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <603D94A1-8FEE-46D7-89EB-7C3000C99FC8@aol.com> Yes, John; the series I normally run (Historic Race Group) allows up to 8 inches, but the 7s fit better given my flares. As we can prepare up to the ?83 rules, SVRA often puts us in the ?N.C.? or Non Conforming category. That way they get their entry fee and we can play, but we don?t take points away from cars that meet SVRA rules. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2019, at 7:45 PM, John H. Hasty wrote: > > ? Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> What's the best rain tire? >> >> I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? >> >> I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs >> >> Your thoughts/experience, please! >> >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Thu Nov 7 19:17:14 2019 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 02:17:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <603D94A1-8FEE-46D7-89EB-7C3000C99FC8@aol.com> References: <603D94A1-8FEE-46D7-89EB-7C3000C99FC8@aol.com> Message-ID: <1842374684.816484.1573179434228@mail.yahoo.com> The Hoosier H2O tire I believe is DOT approved, and I think would be the best choice. ?Similar to the Spec Miata wet that was mentioned. ? Here?s a link:https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hoosier&tireModel=Radial+Wet+H2O? Talk to you soon!Dave Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Thursday, November 7, 2019, 8:53 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Yes, John; the series I normally run (Historic Race Group) allows up to 8 inches, but the 7s fit better given my flares.As we can prepare up to the ?83 rules, SVRA often puts us in the ?N.C.? or Non Conforming category. ?That way they get their entry fee and we can play, but we don?t take points away from cars that meet SVRA rules.Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 7, 2019, at 7:45 PM, John H. Hasty wrote: ? Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me Sent from my iPhone On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot wrote: ?What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. ?For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott114 TR4A_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Fri Nov 8 05:01:58 2019 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 07:01:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: There's really no equity in vintage racing rules among clubs. That's why it's just for fun. Right??? On Thu, Nov 7, 2019 at 7:45 PM John H. Hasty via Fot wrote: > Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot > wrote: > > ? > What's the best rain tire? > > I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure > rain tires, or something in between? > > I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am > using Hoosier TDRs > > Your thoughts/experience, please! > > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sat Nov 9 13:15:37 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 14:15:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. Message-ID: <7C6C012F-89D5-42F0-9153-7CD77494607D@gmail.com> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From billdentin at aol.com Sat Nov 9 13:40:27 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 20:40:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. References: <6481885.1853801.1573332027460.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6481885.1853801.1573332027460@mail.yahoo.com> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, November 9, 2019,?Joe Alexander via Fot??wrote: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell:? 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sat Nov 9 13:42:31 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 20:42:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. References: <384477868.1815855.1573332151400.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <384477868.1815855.1573332151400@mail.yahoo.com> Holy Balls (Religious Ornaments)! Bill Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, November 9, 2019,?Joe Alexander via Fot??wrote: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell:? 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Sat Nov 9 13:53:06 2019 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 15:53:06 -0500 Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. In-Reply-To: <384477868.1815855.1573332151400@mail.yahoo.com> References: <384477868.1815855.1573332151400.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <384477868.1815855.1573332151400@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Do they come in Brass? Extra Large? mike h On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 3:42 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > Holy Balls (Religious Ornaments)! > > Bill > > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com > > On Saturday, November 9, 2019, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > > > > http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 > > > Joe Alexander > 4505 Donald Dr > Cedar Falls, IA 50613 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sat Nov 9 13:58:45 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 14:58:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <64E38C36-7DB0-4AF0-A939-47E6F0A413A3@gmail.com> Nope. Thanks for asking. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Nov 9, 2019, at 2:53 PM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > ? > Do they come in Brass? > Extra Large? > > mike h > >> On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 3:42 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >> Holy Balls (Religious Ornaments)! >> >> Bill >> >> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail >> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com >> >> On Saturday, November 9, 2019, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: >> >> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 >> >> >> Joe Alexander >> 4505 Donald Dr >> Cedar Falls, IA 50613 >> The-vintage-racer.com >> Gasketinnovations.com >> Cell: 319.464.4711 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mleccese1 at verizon.net Sat Nov 9 14:06:31 2019 From: mleccese1 at verizon.net (mleccese1 at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 21:06:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. References: <1162335979.1866949.1573333591180.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1162335979.1866949.1573333591180@mail.yahoo.com> Should you buy two? On Saturday, November 9, 2019 Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: Do they come in Brass?Extra Large? mike h On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 3:42 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Holy Balls (Religious Ornaments)! Bill Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, November 9, 2019,?Joe Alexander via Fot??wrote: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell:? 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mleccese1 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Nov 10 13:35:04 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 20:35:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2020 KASTNER CUP @ MID-OHIO References: <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... For the Good of the Order, I thought it would be wise to mention some things about the area around MID-OHIO.? It? may be rural, but don't be fooled.? Not unlike Los Angeles and New York rural Ohio has Street Gangs too. ? Currently the most active are the SBFs (or Sun Burnt Farmboys) and their nemesis, the Chinstraps (the Amish Gangstas).? Visitors should be alert that it is not uncommon to see either or both cruising slowly by and throwing Gang signals.? The SBFs have their weird, rolling, three finger wave, and the Chinstraps are always tipping their hats. Lately, authorities think there is trouble brewing, as an SBF spit chew from his whip (a 1964 John Deere) directly onto a pile of horsey poo from a Gangsta's buggy. Now there is even talk of a turf war, just down the highway (over by the sod farm.) Better safe than sorry.? Stay alert when you are in the area. Bill Dentinger -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stutztr4 at gmail.com Sun Nov 10 19:20:25 2019 From: stutztr4 at gmail.com (Bruce Stutzman) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 21:20:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 2020 KASTNER CUP @ MID-OHIO In-Reply-To: <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: So be careful how you dress so you are not mistaken as a gang member. Don't wear bib overalls or don't wear dark blue pants, a light blue shirt with the sleeves rolled up and a straw hat. Bruce On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 3:35 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > Amici... > > For the Good of the Order, I thought it would be wise to mention some > things about the area around MID-OHIO. It may be rural, but don't be > fooled. Not unlike Los Angeles and New York rural Ohio has Street Gangs > too. > > Currently the most active are the SBFs (or Sun Burnt Farmboys) and their > nemesis, the Chinstraps (the Amish Gangstas). Visitors should be alert > that it is not uncommon to see either or both cruising slowly by and > throwing Gang signals. The SBFs have their weird, rolling, three finger > wave, and the Chinstraps are always tipping their hats. > > Lately, authorities think there is trouble brewing, as an SBF spit chew > from his whip (a 1964 John Deere) directly onto a pile of horsey poo from a > Gangsta's buggy. > > Now there is even talk of a turf war, just down the highway (over by the > sod farm.) > > Better safe than sorry. Stay alert when you are in the area. > > Bill Dentinger > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutztr4 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From horizonracing at msn.com Mon Nov 11 12:17:50 2019 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 19:17:50 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale Message-ID: Hi all :-) ? Super HEAVY duty? Dyna 44 that was removed from a Running TR 4 . I believe this was built/ Made by Southwick machine . 3:7 CWP Posi traction 7/16 wheel studs Complete with backing plates / drive shaft / axles . $1100 obo + shipping I can organize the freight if need be. **would recommend an inspection before install** ( change seals/ gaskets) -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7744.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1023478 bytes Desc: IMG_7744.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00001.txt URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7742.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 796478 bytes Desc: IMG_7742.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00002.txt URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: IMG_7738.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 960972 bytes Desc: IMG_7738.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00006.txt URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Nov 11 14:01:13 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 21:01:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <714049477.2526142.1573506073210@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... Back when I was racing, we had three or four fully prepared axles on the shelf.? One was for Street Races (we did St. Pete's, Grand Rapids (twice), and Minneapolis (twice), one for tight tracks like Blackhawk, and one for tracks like Road America and Watkins Glen.? Our mechanic, Kevin Potter, was really good and swapping axles, but then he was really good at everything. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Tony and Annie Garmey via Fot To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Nov 11, 2019 12:44 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale Hi all :-) ? Super HEAVY duty? Dyna 44 that was removed from a Running TR 4 . I believe this was built/ Made by Southwick machine . 3:7 CWP Posi traction 7/16 wheel studs Complete with backing plates / drive shaft / axles . $1100 obo + shipping I can? organize the freight if need be. **would recommend an inspection before install** ( change seals/ gaskets) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stutztr4 at gmail.com Mon Nov 11 15:32:59 2019 From: stutztr4 at gmail.com (Bruce Stutzman) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 17:32:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale In-Reply-To: <714049477.2526142.1573506073210@mail.yahoo.com> References: <714049477.2526142.1573506073210@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The Dana 44 was the stock diff in the Sunbeam Tiger. On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 4:01 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > Amici... > > Back when I was racing, we had three or four fully prepared axles on the > shelf. One was for Street Races (we did St. Pete's, Grand Rapids (twice), > and Minneapolis (twice), one for tight tracks like Blackhawk, and one for > tracks like Road America and Watkins Glen. Our mechanic, Kevin Potter, was > really good and swapping axles, but then he was really good at everything. > > Bill Dentinger > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tony and Annie Garmey via Fot > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, Nov 11, 2019 12:44 pm > Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale > > Hi all :-) > > ? Super HEAVY duty? Dyna 44 that was removed from a Running TR 4 . > I believe this was built/ Made by Southwick machine . > 3:7 CWP > Posi traction > 7/16 wheel studs > Complete with backing plates / drive shaft / axles . > > $1100 obo + shipping > I can organize the freight if need be. > > **would recommend an inspection before install** ( change seals/ gaskets) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutztr4 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Tue Nov 12 13:46:47 2019 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 14:46:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Triumph 2000 Message-ID: A M I C I Does anyone know of a 60's era Triumph 2000 for sale? Thanks Dennis -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Tue Nov 12 22:45:26 2019 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 21:45:26 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Triumph 2000 In-Reply-To: <20191112204720.89FAEA06BF@autox.team.net> References: <20191112204720.89FAEA06BF@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I hear the one built for Paul Newman can be had for somewhere near $250K... Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 12, 2019, at 12:47 PM, Dennis DeLap via Fot wrote: > > ? > A M I C I > Does anyone know of a 60's era Triumph 2000 for sale? > Thanks > Dennis > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Nov 13 08:59:52 2019 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (JAMES GRAY) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 08:59:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Fot] Fot member dropped off list Message-ID: <1551144113.132350.1573660792989@connect.xfinity.com> Mark, Would you please reinstate Jeff Hall to the list, he was dropped off somehow. Jeff is one of our ( RMVR) GT-6 drivers. jeffwhall at aol.com mailto:jeffwhall at aol.com Thanks, Jim Gray -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Wed Nov 13 18:56:34 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] AUTOWEEK References: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... AUTOWEEK...RIP! ?The last issued arrived today. Not a big surprise, as print?Magazines and Newspapers?are having great difficulty surviving. My own subscription to AUTOWEEK?does not expire until December 2020. ?I have no hard feelings however. ?Last time I renewed extended subscription rates were dirt cheap as they scrambled to generate cash. The handwriting was on the wall. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjl at gt-classics.com Thu Nov 14 06:29:19 2019 From: rjl at gt-classics.com (=?UTF-8?B?Ui4gSm9obiBMeWU=?=) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 08:29:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] AUTOWEEK In-Reply-To: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1573738159.u65d1elbsaok8o4g@webmail.lumos.net> Wow, that is sad.  I received the new issue, but have not had time to read it.  I have several years left on my subscription, oh well.  This is not the first magazine that I really enjoyed that has gone belly up, but this is the one that I have been reading the longest, I believe. John   On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC), Bill Dentinger via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote: Amici...   AUTOWEEK...RIP!  The last issued arrived today.   Not a big surprise, as print Magazines and Newspapers are having great difficulty surviving. My own subscription to AUTOWEEK does not expire until December 2020.  I have no hard feelings however.  Last time I renewed extended subscription rates were dirt cheap as they scrambled to generate cash.   The handwriting was on the wall.   Bill Dentinger   Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com   -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From LawrenceRoss at allstate.com Thu Nov 14 07:09:49 2019 From: LawrenceRoss at allstate.com (Ross, Lawrence) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 14:09:49 +0000 Subject: [Fot] AUTOWEEK In-Reply-To: <1573738159.u65d1elbsaok8o4g@webmail.lumos.net> References: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com>, <1573738159.u65d1elbsaok8o4g@webmail.lumos.net> Message-ID: My "last issue" arrived last week. My subscription is paid until 2021. Since Hearst also owns Rod & Track plus Car & Driver, it will be what options well be offered. Of course, I'm still waiting for my refund from Hemming's Sports & Exotics. Larry Lawrence Ross Agency 67 Old Clairton Rd. Pittsburgh, PA. 15236 (412) 655-9990 - office (412) 780-8495 - cell ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of R. John Lye via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2019 8:29 AM To: billdentin at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: [External] Re: [Fot] AUTOWEEK Wow, that is sad. I received the new issue, but have not had time to read it. I have several years left on my subscription, oh well. This is not the first magazine that I really enjoyed that has gone belly up, but this is the one that I have been reading the longest, I believe. John On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC), Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Amici... AUTOWEEK...RIP! The last issued arrived today. Not a big surprise, as print Magazines and Newspapers are having great difficulty surviving. My own subscription to AUTOWEEK does not expire until December 2020. I have no hard feelings however. Last time I renewed extended subscription rates were dirt cheap as they scrambled to generate cash. The handwriting was on the wall. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Thu Nov 14 07:29:59 2019 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 14:29:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] AUTOWEEK In-Reply-To: References: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com> <1573738159.u65d1elbsaok8o4g@webmail.lumos.net> Message-ID: <1311402714.823929.1573741799919@mail.yahoo.com> I just got my last issue as well.? Really was one of my favorite mags, and I recently renewed also.? Not as bad timing as FINALLY subscribing to Spitfire and GT6 magazine, sending in my check, with the mag folding probably the day after Shawn got the check.? No offense, Shawn!? You photography and coverage makes up for it!-- Jay De Pol -----Original Message----- From: Ross, Lawrence via Fot To: billdentin at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net ; rjl at gt-classics.com Sent: Thu, Nov 14, 2019 9:11 am Subject: Re: [Fot] AUTOWEEK #yiv3305655251 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} My "last issue" arrived last week. My subscription is paid until 2021. Since Hearst also owns Rod & Track plus Car & Driver, it will be what options well be offered. Of course, I'm still waiting for my refund from Hemming's Sports & Exotics. Larry Lawrence Ross Agency67 Old Clairton Rd.Pittsburgh, PA. 15236(412) 655-9990 - office(412) 780-8495 - cell From: Fot on behalf of R. John Lye via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2019 8:29 AM To: billdentin at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: [External] Re: [Fot] AUTOWEEK?Wow, that is sad.? I received the new issue, but have not had time to read it.? I have several years left on my subscription, oh well.? This is not the first magazine that I really enjoyed that has gone belly up, but this is the one that I have been reading the longest, I believe. John ? On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC), Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Amici...?AUTOWEEK...RIP! ?The last issued arrived today.?Not a big surprise, as print?Magazines and Newspapers?are having great difficulty surviving. My own subscription to AUTOWEEK?does not expire until December 2020. ?I have no hard feelings however. ?Last time I renewed extended subscription rates were dirt cheap as they scrambled to generate cash.?The handwriting was on the wall.?Bill Dentinger ?Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dennis at motorsportranch.com Thu Nov 14 15:17:59 2019 From: dennis at motorsportranch.com (Dennis) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 16:17:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] GT6 for sale Message-ID: 1978 GT6 roller for sale. Car was last driven in 1968. Original wire wheels. Resto-mod restoration 50% complete. Please call or txt for more info. Dennis Walje 817-915-0812 Sent from my iPhone From spiwakd at aol.com Thu Nov 14 15:21:27 2019 From: spiwakd at aol.com (spiwakd at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 22:21:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] For Sale References: <415366591.455392.1573770087214.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <415366591.455392.1573770087214@mail.yahoo.com> Long list of racing parts and driver's gear for sale also a complete new full-race engine for TR3-4 with all machine work done needing final assembly. Contact me off-list for?complete list?spiwakd at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dennis at motorsportranch.com Thu Nov 14 15:22:08 2019 From: dennis at motorsportranch.com (Dennis) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 16:22:08 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: GT6 for sale References: Message-ID: Sent from my iPhone Begin forwarded message: > From: Dennis > Date: November 14, 2019 at 4:20:52 PM CST > To: Dennis > Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 for sale > > Sorry. Got dates switched. The Gt6 is a 1968 > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Nov 14, 2019, at 4:17 PM, Dennis via Fot wrote: >> >> 1978 GT6 roller for sale. Car was last driven in 1968. Original wire wheels. Resto-mod restoration 50% complete. Please call or txt for more info. >> >> Dennis Walje >> 817-915-0812 >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dennis at motorsportranch.com >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 11:00:13 2019 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 13:00:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Host hotel for the K Cup? Message-ID: Hi folks, a non racing Triumph friend is planning on attending the K cup and wants to know if there will be a hotel associated with the event. thanks mike h -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 11:04:13 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 12:04:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Host hotel for the K Cup? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4007DC31-9FD4-44AA-A4DB-70E83D08911A@gmail.com> Mike & FOT There is no official Host Hotel. Kas is likely to be domiciled at the Hampton Inn. Regards, Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Nov 15, 2019, at 12:00 PM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi folks, a non racing Triumph friend is planning on attending the K cup and wants to know if there will be a hotel associated with the event. > > thanks > mike h > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > From chrispanayotti at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 06:14:26 2019 From: chrispanayotti at gmail.com (chris panayotti) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 08:14:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 Message-ID: Hi all, I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. If you need any more info about my setup please ask Thank you Chris Panayotti -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Fri Nov 15 17:55:08 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 17:55:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <69cd138a-7439-a3fb-0991-8dba4c123094@bradakis.com> In general I don't send messages from non-members on to the list, but this seems like a legitimate, well founded request for assistance.? Perhaps some of you can assist Chris on this matter. mjb. On 11/15/19 6:14 AM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like > from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing > this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a > Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am > trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would > be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is > accleration off idle.? It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture > screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that > point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine > if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a > point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but > with any load at all it bogs and dies.? I've come to the conclusion my > progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of > which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and > verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect > At .010".? I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am > running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does > work and brings it up to 24ish deg.? It is a stock points distributor > by the way.? I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade > that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked > compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to > get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list > but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the > distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm > fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti From sjanzen at me.com Fri Nov 15 18:44:41 2019 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 20:44:41 -0500 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> More information is needed. I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? What size chokes are you running? Main jets, idle jets? Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > From chasgee22 at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 18:51:43 2019 From: chasgee22 at gmail.com (Chuck Gee) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 17:51:43 -0800 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> References: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> Message-ID: Are the bowl vents clear? Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 15, 2019, at 5:44 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ? > More information is needed. > I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? > What size chokes are you running? > Main jets, idle jets? > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: >> >> ? >> Hi all, >> >> I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. >> >> So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. >> >> I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. >> >> Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. >> >> If you need any more info about my setup please ask >> >> Thank you >> Chris Panayotti >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com > > From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Fri Nov 15 21:34:46 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 04:34:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1160805473.699802.1573878886978@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. I'd put a vacuum gauge on the setup and tune your idle using that. If you're running a stock cam, you should be able to pull more than 15 inches of vacuum, so try advancing the ignition timing and balancing off the idle screws (not the mixture, the idle screw) to get you idle down and still pull the vacuum. If that doesn't help, double check your float levels - if the float level is wrong you won't be able to get the carbs to work right. Note that the idle jets do just about nothing after the throttle is off the stop - after that you're on the mains. Sounds simple, but like nobody seems to get that. 50F11 should be more than adequate idle jets. Regarding the distributor - the timing needs to be ROCK SOLID. If it bounces at all or if there are skips, you need to fix that first. You can't tune bad ignition with the carbs. :-) Regarding timing, I've set up plenty of cars with 15 BTDC at idle. The trick is to get about 32 or 33 degrees total advance at 3000 or 3500. How you get there depends on how much mechanical advance your distributor makes - if you have Lucas, there are several different numbers available. Feel free to ping me off list. Regards,Bob Lang On Friday, November 15, 2019, 7:52:12 PM EST, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: Hi all,? I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle.? It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies.? I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010".? I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg.? It is a stock points distributor by the way.? I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. If you need any more info about my setup please ask Thank youChris Panayotti_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 21:49:22 2019 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 21:49:22 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: <1160805473.699802.1573878886978@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1160805473.699802.1573878886978@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have a web page focused on DCOEs for the TR3 & 4 engine. While the jet suggestions are not applicable, a lot of the material covers how each part of a DCOE works and how all the parts work together. So if you could use a carb primer to help you trouble shoot your problem, http://www.tr3a.info/WeberDCOEinfo.htm TeriAnn From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Nov 16 00:40:00 2019 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 00:40:00 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Chris, The mixture screws should be out 1 turn from lightly seated. You might be a little lean on the idle jet if it needs that extra 1/4 turn. It doesn?t take much too make a difference with the mixture screw. If the speed screw is more than 1/2 turn out from lightly touching the lever it may indicate a lean idle jet too. If the speed screw is turned much more than that you could be getting into the progression holes instead of the idle jet alone. The progression holes are there to make a smooth transition from the idle jet circuit to the main jet circuit. If you?re into the progression holes to make it idle correctly then it?s another indication that the idle jet is too lean as their function is to add gas to the mix. As far as the bog on acceleration, pull the pump jets and see what size is in there. You may need to go smaller to decrease the volume and duration of the squirt of gas when accelerating. I had a bogging down problem upon acceleration and going from a 55 to a 40 pump jet solved that problem. I now run both the pump jet and the spill jet (exhaust jet) with size 40 jets. Check the pump jets first, as it?s the easiest thing to do, then maybe look at a richer idle jet if that doesn?t help. You may have two things going on here, 1) the acceleration issue (the pump jets), and 2) the adjustments needed to the mixture and speed screws (the idle jet). Good luck. It will be great once you get them right. Bud > On Nov 15, 2019, at 6:14 AM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sat Nov 16 03:41:51 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 11:41:51 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1356606085.208714594.1573900911103.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Chris, you do not mention a lambda sensor and/or other equipment to read the exhaust gases. Tuning Webers for a street car is more complex than for racing. The idle jet has, apart from the fuel hole at the bottom, also an air bleed hole on the side of the jet. The combination of this 2 holes is determining the fuel/air mixture delivered at the progression holes. 1.5 turns from the seats for the idle screw is pointing to a lean fuel/air mixture delivered to the progression holes by the idle jets. The acceleration jets should deliver a strong jet of fuel : as far as about 1/2 or 1 meter (when the carbs are not mounted). If you don't see this, maybe the accelerator intake/discharge valves(not the accelerator pump jets) are not in place in the bottom of the fuel chambers! Marcel ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- Van: "fot" Aan: "chris panayotti" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 16 november 2019 08:40:00 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 Hi Chris, The mixture screws should be out 1 turn from lightly seated. You might be a little lean on the idle jet if it needs that extra 1/4 turn. It doesn?t take much too make a difference with the mixture screw. If the speed screw is more than 1/2 turn out from lightly touching the lever it may indicate a lean idle jet too. If the speed screw is turned much more than that you could be getting into the progression holes instead of the idle jet alone. The progression holes are there to make a smooth transition from the idle jet circuit to the main jet circuit. If you?re into the progression holes to make it idle correctly then it?s another indication that the idle jet is too lean as their function is to add gas to the mix. As far as the bog on acceleration, pull the pump jets and see what size is in there. You may need to go smaller to decrease the volume and duration of the squirt of gas when accelerating. I had a bogging down problem upon acceleration and going from a 55 to a 40 pump jet solved that problem. I now run both the pump jet and the spill jet (exhaust jet) with size 40 jets. Check the pump jets first, as it?s the easiest thing to do, then maybe look at a richer idle jet if that doesn?t help. You may have two things going on here, 1) the acceleration issue (the pump jets), and 2) the adjustments needed to the mixture and speed screws (the idle jet). Good luck. It will be great once you get them right. Bud > On Nov 15, 2019, at 6:14 AM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Sat Nov 16 11:05:53 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 10:05:53 -0800 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Settings I have used: Main 120 Emulsion f16 Air 190 Idle f9/45 Pump 45 Choke 30 This is on a bone stock TVR w 6 motor Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Nov 15, 2019, at 4:51 PM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Sat Nov 16 11:05:53 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 10:05:53 -0800 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Settings I have used: Main 120 Emulsion f16 Air 190 Idle f9/45 Pump 45 Choke 30 This is on a bone stock TVR w 6 motor Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Nov 15, 2019, at 4:51 PM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > From chrispanayotti at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 19:08:40 2019 From: chrispanayotti at gmail.com (chris panayotti) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 21:08:40 -0500 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> References: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> Message-ID: Forgot to hit reply all the first time Hi Scott, Yes they are 40 DCOE 18 I didn't write down my choke sizes but I'm pretty sure they are 30s. I can double check tomorrow. Main jets are 120 emulsion tubes are f11 , idle jet is 50F11, pump jet is 40. I think that is everything. All the carbs are the same. They are made in Italy Weber's also not Mexico ones. Thanks, Chris On Fri, Nov 15, 2019, 8:44 PM Scott Janzen wrote: > > More information is needed. > I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? > What size chokes are you running? > Main jets, idle jets? > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot > wrote: > > > > ? > > Hi all, > > > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from > December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. > Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon > manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do > the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to > share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is > accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture > screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point > either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold > it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it > revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all > it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to > blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and > verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At > .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it > at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it > up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a > few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully > used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to > get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but > still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor > but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident > it's a carb problem. > > > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > > > Thank you > > Chris Panayotti > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From chrispanayotti at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 19:10:46 2019 From: chrispanayotti at gmail.com (chris panayotti) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 21:10:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> Message-ID: Yes I believe the vents are clear. It's a pretty large hole that goes into the air filter housing if I'm not mistaken. But I will double check that. Chris On Fri, Nov 15, 2019, 8:51 PM Chuck Gee wrote: > Are the bowl vents clear? > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 15, 2019, at 5:44 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot > wrote: > > > > ? > > More information is needed. > > I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? > > What size chokes are you running? > > Main jets, idle jets? > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > >> On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> > >> ? > >> Hi all, > >> > >> I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like > from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. > Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon > manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do > the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to > share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > >> > >> So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is > accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture > screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point > either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold > it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it > revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all > it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to > blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > >> > >> I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and > verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At > .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it > at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it > up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a > few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully > used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > >> > >> Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to > get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but > still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor > but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident > it's a carb problem. > >> > >> If you need any more info about my setup please ask > >> > >> Thank you > >> Chris Panayotti > >> _______________________________________________ > >> fot at autox.team.net > >> > >> http://www.fot-racing.com > >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive > http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > >> > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sun Nov 17 01:22:16 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 09:22:16 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> Message-ID: <173189750.211953297.1573978936271.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> It is probably the progression circuit indeed. It seems there is no fuel arriving at the progression holes at all and that you manage to overcome this (when there is no load) with the accelerator pump (getting some fuel in the tracts by fast pumping till the main circuit is taking over). Is this a new installation? I know of a guy who does rebuild and inspect new Webers before installing them! Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "Chuck Gee" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 16 november 2019 03:10:46 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 Yes I believe the vents are clear. It's a pretty large hole that goes into the air filter housing if I'm not mistaken. But I will double check that. Chris On Fri, Nov 15, 2019, 8:51 PM Chuck Gee < [ mailto:chasgee22 at gmail.com | chasgee22 at gmail.com ] > wrote: Are the bowl vents clear? Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 15, 2019, at 5:44 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: > > > More information is needed. > I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? > What size chokes are you running? > Main jets, idle jets? > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: >> >> >> Hi all, >> >> I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. >> >> So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. >> >> I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. >> >> Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. >> >> If you need any more info about my setup please ask >> >> Thank you >> Chris Panayotti >> _______________________________________________ >> [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] >> >> [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] >> >> Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] >> Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] >> Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com ] >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > > [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] > > Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] > Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] > Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com ] > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Sun Nov 17 11:23:04 2019 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:23:04 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination Message-ID: I'd like to nominate my friend Fred Winterburn, Morgan Plus 4 owner with questions about early TR engines. Fred worked out a few of the TR cooling problems on his own and he builds and sells his own capacitive discharge ignition system based on what he learned from his father, Lloyd Winterburn, patent holder of the earliest efficient CDI systems ( https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/unsung-motor-industry-hero-fl-winterburn-his-capacitor-nicholas-gomez ). I've been using one of Fred's units for the last few years in a race car and am in the process of installing another unit in another race car. No complaints! Duncan Charlton -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Sun Nov 17 11:24:24 2019 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:24:24 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mark -- should he get a second, Fred's email address is: winterburnignition at gmail.com Duncan On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 12:23 PM Duncan Charlton < duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com> wrote: > I'd like to nominate my friend Fred Winterburn, Morgan Plus 4 owner with > questions about early TR engines. > > Fred worked out a few of the TR cooling problems on his own and he builds > and sells his own capacitive discharge ignition system based on what he > learned from his father, Lloyd Winterburn, patent holder of the earliest > efficient CDI systems ( > https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/unsung-motor-industry-hero-fl-winterburn-his-capacitor-nicholas-gomez > ). > > I've been using one of Fred's units for the last few years in a race car > and am in the process of installing another unit in another race car. No > complaints! > > Duncan Charlton > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Sun Nov 17 11:38:24 2019 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:38:24 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Duncan, I second the nomination. The linkedin read was very interesting. Paul Ricco Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 17, 2019, at 12:27 PM, Duncan Charlton via Fot wrote: > > ? > Mark -- should he get a second, Fred's email address is: > winterburnignition at gmail.com > > Duncan > > > >> On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 12:23 PM Duncan Charlton wrote: >> I'd like to nominate my friend Fred Winterburn, Morgan Plus 4 owner with questions about early TR engines. >> >> Fred worked out a few of the TR cooling problems on his own and he builds and sells his own capacitive discharge ignition system based on what he learned from his father, Lloyd Winterburn, patent holder of the earliest efficient CDI systems (https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/unsung-motor-industry-hero-fl-winterburn-his-capacitor-nicholas-gomez). >> >> I've been using one of Fred's units for the last few years in a race car and am in the process of installing another unit in another race car. No complaints! >> >> Duncan Charlton > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Mon Nov 18 14:12:42 2019 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 15:12:42 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Triumph 2000 Message-ID: A M I C I I found a Triumph 2000 in the Seattle area that I want to buy. 'Long shot here' - Is anyone traveling from the Northwest toward the Midwest with an empty trailer over the course of the next few months? Thanks Dennis -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 18 15:35:16 2019 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 22:35:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fw: Triumph 2000 In-Reply-To: <20191118211343.3D8F3A060A@autox.team.net> References: <20191118211343.3D8F3A060A@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <890836297.2863138.1574116516322@mail.yahoo.com> I hadn't thought of this until I saw this message, but I have a similar situation.? There is a TR-3 South of San Francisco which I am considering buying.? One of the hindrances is getting it to me in Central North Carolina.? If by chance anyone is going to be traveling the San Francisco to North Caro0lina route (or thereabouts), with an empty trailer, I'd be happy to help out with gas and expenses,. Thanks. Jack PS.? Dennis - Did you race a TR-3 at Watkins Glen in 1975?. ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Dennis DeLap via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019, 4:13:44 PM ESTSubject: [Fot] Triumph 2000 A M I C I I found a Triumph 2000 in the Seattle area that I want to buy. 'Long shot here' - Is anyone traveling from the Northwest toward the Midwest with an empty trailer over the course of the next few months? Thanks Dennis _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 18 17:34:58 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 00:34:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? References: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> OK, so i replaced the battery with a Deka small unit in the duke of oil (TR4A), and installed a new gear reduction starter at the same time. everything seemed both hunky and dory. car started right up and sounded normal, then i noticed that when revved, the ammeter showed progressing discharge! ammeter was at about zero until revved when it went further into the negative amps (to about -15amps) with the increasing revs, much like it would when charging except showing a discharge. i double checked that the batt was in with neg ground (its been neg ground for years). i even checked the polarity with a voltmeter and the batt markings were correct! wtf has happened here? I can re-polarize the generator and im guessing all will be well, but how did this occur? baffled again in norcalnick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Mon Nov 18 19:29:24 2019 From: fmccjr at aol.com (Rick McCurdy) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 21:29:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <215460A9-16B9-411B-B9F8-712353C19B48@aol.com> Swap the ammeter terminals? ??? Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY > On Nov 18, 2019, at 7:34 PM, Nick Black via Fot wrote: > > OK, so i replaced the battery with a Deka small unit in the duke of oil (TR4A), and installed a new gear reduction starter at the same time. everything seemed both hunky and dory. car started right up and sounded normal, then i noticed that when revved, the ammeter showed progressing discharge! ammeter was at about zero until revved when it went further into the negative amps (to about -15amps) with the increasing revs, much like it would when charging except showing a discharge. i double checked that the batt was in with neg ground (its been neg ground for years). i even checked the polarity with a voltmeter and the batt markings were correct! wtf has happened here? I can re-polarize the generator and im guessing all will be well, but how did this occur? > > baffled again in norcal > nick > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Mon Nov 18 19:29:24 2019 From: fmccjr at aol.com (Rick McCurdy) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 21:29:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <215460A9-16B9-411B-B9F8-712353C19B48@aol.com> Swap the ammeter terminals? ??? Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY > On Nov 18, 2019, at 7:34 PM, Nick Black via Fot wrote: > > OK, so i replaced the battery with a Deka small unit in the duke of oil (TR4A), and installed a new gear reduction starter at the same time. everything seemed both hunky and dory. car started right up and sounded normal, then i noticed that when revved, the ammeter showed progressing discharge! ammeter was at about zero until revved when it went further into the negative amps (to about -15amps) with the increasing revs, much like it would when charging except showing a discharge. i double checked that the batt was in with neg ground (its been neg ground for years). i even checked the polarity with a voltmeter and the batt markings were correct! wtf has happened here? I can re-polarize the generator and im guessing all will be well, but how did this occur? > > baffled again in norcal > nick > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stutztr4 at gmail.com Mon Nov 18 20:18:58 2019 From: stutztr4 at gmail.com (Bruce Stutzman) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 22:18:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 2.5 PI Message-ID: Was somebody looking for a 2.5 PI? I've come across one that is available. Bruce Stutzman -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 18 21:28:51 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 22:28:51 -0600 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <215460A9-16B9-411B-B9F8-712353C19B48@aol.com> References: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> <215460A9-16B9-411B-B9F8-712353C19B48@aol.com> Message-ID: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> What happens if you turn on headlights with the engine not running? -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 19 07:52:13 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 06:52:13 -0800 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> References: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> Message-ID: Good thought but there?s no big loads avail on the car as the only circuit is the ignition. Tried flipping ign on and off but not enuf load to see movement on the gauge. I guess I could have repolarized the gen somehow but it was really just a quick batt change and starter installed when the batt was out. Just thot it odd at least... Yes I?m positive about the negative... Nick Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Nov 18, 2019, at 8:29 PM, Randall via Fot wrote: > > ?What happens if you turn on headlights with the engine not running? > -- Randall_______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 19 07:52:13 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 06:52:13 -0800 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> References: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> Message-ID: Good thought but there?s no big loads avail on the car as the only circuit is the ignition. Tried flipping ign on and off but not enuf load to see movement on the gauge. I guess I could have repolarized the gen somehow but it was really just a quick batt change and starter installed when the batt was out. Just thot it odd at least... Yes I?m positive about the negative... Nick Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Nov 18, 2019, at 8:29 PM, Randall via Fot wrote: > > ?What happens if you turn on headlights with the engine not running? > -- Randall_______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 19 09:08:30 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 10:08:30 -0600 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: References: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> Message-ID: Generator polarity shouldn't be able to do that, since it eventually gets connected to the battery. Normally the battery is much stronger, so the generator gets automatically polarized every time the cutout closes (and the red light goes out). It's not a particularly good idea to switch polarity that way (lots of violence at the cutout contacts when the generator fights the battery), but it does work (if the contacts survive). I keep an assortment of "burned out" headlight bulbs for tests like this. The low beam filament always burbs out first, which leaves the high beam filament functional as a roughly 5 amp load. There are other possibilities, but ammeter polarity is still the first thing I would check. -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Nov 20 09:28:21 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 08:28:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Nomination Message-ID: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> Hello Friends, I would like to nominate Scott Meredith, sonomascot at aol.com. Scott is a relatively new to Triumphs. He purchased a really nice and beautifully prepared, blue with red Spitfire race car off Bring a Trailer. Some of you may be familiar with the car. We paddocked together at Sonoma in early October and raced in the same group. Do I have a second? Dave Hogye -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Wed Nov 20 09:33:24 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 16:33:24 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Second! From: Fot On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE via Fot Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 10:28 AM To: Friends of Triumph Subject: [Fot] Nomination Hello Friends, I would like to nominate Scott Meredith, sonomascot at aol.com. Scott is a relatively new to Triumphs. He purchased a really nice and beautifully prepared, blue with red Spitfire race car off Bring a Trailer. Some of you may be familiar with the car. We paddocked together at Sonoma in early October and raced in the same group. Do I have a second? Dave Hogye -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From david.c.cutter at gmail.com Wed Nov 20 09:37:23 2019 From: david.c.cutter at gmail.com (David Cutter) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 08:37:23 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Another Spit racer...nice! On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 8:33 AM Barr, Scott via Fot wrote: > Second! > > > > *From:* Fot *On Behalf Of *DAVE HOGYE via Fot > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 20, 2019 10:28 AM > *To:* Friends of Triumph > *Subject:* [Fot] Nomination > > > > Hello Friends, > > I would like to nominate Scott Meredith, sonomascot at aol.com. Scott is a > relatively new to Triumphs. He purchased a really nice and beautifully > prepared, blue with red Spitfire race car off Bring a Trailer. Some of you > may be familiar with the car. We paddocked together at Sonoma in early > October and raced in the same group. > > Do I have a second? > > Dave Hogye > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/david.c.cutter at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Wed Nov 20 13:52:43 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 13:52:43 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> Scott has been added. We are coming up on this list's birthday, and in the 23 years since its beginning we have gathered up 360 members.? Since the early days of what was to become Team Net, I've managed about 70 different lists over those 30 years.? This one is my favorite. mjb. From billdentin at aol.com Wed Nov 20 14:01:10 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 21:01:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1237779537.3138375.1574283670364@mail.yahoo.com> KUDOS, Mark... Seems like FOT members ought to seek funds for a policy to protect our interests in case, God Forbid, something would ever happen to you.? It would take a ton of money to find a replacement. Come to think of it, we should have one for Kas and Joe Alexander as well.... Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot To: fot Sent: Wed, Nov 20, 2019 12:52 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination Scott has been added. We are coming up on this list's birthday, and in the 23 years since its beginning we have gathered up 360 members.? Since the early days of what was to become Team Net, I've managed about 70 different lists over those 30 years.? This one is my favorite. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Nov 20 17:21:04 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 16:21:04 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1451310718.83328.1574295664592@connect.xfinity.com> Thanks Mark, Seems like a good time as any to make a donation to Team.net. Dave H. > On November 20, 2019 at 12:52 PM Mark J Bradakis via Fot wrote: > > > Scott has been added. > > We are coming up on this list's birthday, and in the 23 years since its > beginning we have gathered up 360 members.? Since the early days of what > was to become Team Net, I've managed about 70 different lists over those > 30 years.? This one is my favorite. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Nov 21 14:37:42 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 21:37:42 +0000 Subject: [Fot] FOT SWAG In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm sure everybody will want to be looking their finest at the 2020 Kastner Cup. So, just a reminder that FOT has their own storefront at Lands End Business. I received a call from them today and they are running a 25% off sale through December 4th. Somewhere at the end of your order you will have a spot to plug in code "OUT4" in a box to claim your discount. Don't expect bulk t-shirt prices, there stuff is nice, the embroidery is top notch and most importantly you can order one of. Below is my original email explaining how to order. Marty ________________________________ From: marty Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 8:50 PM To: FOT Subject: FOT SWAG Ok boys and girls. We now have the ability of purchasing FOT bling. There is now a FOT store front on the Lands End Business website. See the instructions below for a link. This is for getting the FOT logo embroidered on any item in their catalog. It is not for silk screened items. I am starting with the black and white coat of arms that was used in the 2012 special shirt run. Once you run through the sequence a time or two it is pretty simple. I have tried to explain it below. I have used Land Ends Business for other car clubs store fronts and it is top quality and best of all you can return things. Give it a try. Marty Sukey 1, go to https://business.landsend.com/store/fot/ 2, set up an account for yourself and log in. 3, pick an item you might want. 4, click on apply logo, 5, select the FOT logo, 6,if you want, select change colors. Here you can experiment with changing colors on the logo to better suit the color of shirt you pick. If you hit select new colors you will get a drop down with multiple boxes. Try putting a different color in each box and see how it effects the logo. Then you can tweak it as needed. 7, select location. 8, hit apply logo. 9, hit cancel or add to bag. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Thu Nov 21 19:28:53 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 19:28:53 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT SWAG In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Back when this was first announced, I remember going to the website and looking at hats.? I whined about how the one I wanted had a 2 dozen minimum order.? Later on when I was at Buttonwillow for that event, I caught myself thinking I really wish I had gotten 2 dozen, or more, hats to pass around.? Oh well. I'll do some shopping soon with Mid Ohio in mind. mjb. From vfracing at aol.com Fri Nov 22 14:58:18 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 16:58:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support References: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A@aol.com> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Nov 22 20:56:38 2019 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:56:38 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A@aol.com> References: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A.ref@aol.com> <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A@aol.com> Message-ID: I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.? Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.? To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap? and you must use longer bolts. ?Some? builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > Thanks, > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 23 04:42:46 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 06:42:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >> Thanks, >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 23 04:42:46 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 06:42:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >> Thanks, >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Sat Nov 23 05:11:15 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 12:11:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <1782885244.2876404.1574510844990@mail.yahoo.com> References: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A.ref@aol.com> <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A@aol.com> <1782885244.2876404.1574510844990@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <44648925.2846713.1574511075943@mail.yahoo.com> The center main strap is often used on some high-revving engines, ie Spit & A-series, but I've never seen the need for it on the Tractor engine.If it's well balanced & not run at stupid RPM, the mains will last a long time.Glen -----Original Message----- From: Phil Gott via Fot To: Friends Of Triumph Sent: Fri, Nov 22, 2019 4:58 pm Subject: [Fot] Center main support Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Sat Nov 23 05:15:50 2019 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 07:15:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I also followed Uncle Jack's advice. It seemed to calm the engine vibration at higher revs (6000+) in addition to the cast alloy sump. I'm running a stock crank nitrided. Use ARP main studs. . On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 6:43 AM Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Thanks again, Tony: > The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to > reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the > sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through > the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based > on your recommendation, it seems to be. > Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine > today for other work. > Phil > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about > that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. > To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for > the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge > the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel > that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have > never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is > something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > Thanks, > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 23 20:11:05 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 22:11:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > Regards, Tony > >> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Thanks again, Tony: >> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >> Phil >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>> >>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>>> Thanks, >>>> Phil Gott >>>> 114 TR4A >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>>> >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 976982 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1056459 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image2.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 664537 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 23 20:11:05 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 22:11:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > Regards, Tony > >> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Thanks again, Tony: >> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >> Phil >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>> >>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>>> Thanks, >>>> Phil Gott >>>> 114 TR4A >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>>> >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 976982 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1056459 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image2.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 664537 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Nov 24 01:47:58 2019 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 09:47:58 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001d01d5a2a3$dfbca9b0$9f35fd10$@gmail.com> Interesting photos. I?ve never thought about this. All my cranks need a little straightening after some use in race engines. The machine shop says, that is normal. Many race engines warp cranks during usage. As long the bearings are okay nothing to do they say. My mains never developed a problem?..and I?m running larger main bearing clearances to compensate crank flexing?.all seems fine. On the other hand, I?m running smaller rod bearing clearances. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 04:11 An: Tony Drews Cc: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews > wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 664537 bytes Desc: not available URL: From quikrx at yahoo.com Sun Nov 24 11:16:32 2019 From: quikrx at yahoo.com (ralph hansen) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 18:16:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Factory Comp Prep manuals for sale References: <709204029.3061799.1574619392446.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <709204029.3061799.1574619392446@mail.yahoo.com> hello all,? have for sale one each factory comp prep manuals - new in good to excellent condition (shelf patina (yellowing) only) asking $27.00 US shipped to states, overseas will need to get price - PayPal and USPS is what I use available: MGB 1st editionTR4-TR4A 5th editionTR250, TR5, TR6 2nd edition if interested can email quikrx at yahoo.com or call 847 840 7366 9am-8pm any day central Ralph -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sun Nov 24 14:03:22 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 16:03:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. > > Regards, Tony > >> On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Here are some photos: >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >>>> Thanks again, Tony: >>>> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >>>> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >>>> Phil >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>>>> >>>>> ? >>>>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>>>> >>>>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>>>> >>>>> Regards, Tony Drews >>>>> >>>>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>>>>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>>>>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>>>>> Thanks, >>>>>> Phil Gott >>>>>> 114 TR4A >>>>>> >>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>>> >>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>>> >>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Sun Nov 24 14:57:41 2019 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 13:57:41 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> References: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> Message-ID: What Chris has failed to mention is that he holds the revs to 6000 and thus relieves a lot ofstrees on the entire engine. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 1:03 PM Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Interesting, Chris: > My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank > supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing > high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be > retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what > you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not > grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to > gain from that diagnosis. > Thanks for the input. > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > > Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. > > Regards, Tony > On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: > > Here are some photos: > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews > wrote: > > ? > > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap > to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > Regards, Tony > On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: > > Thanks again, Tony: > The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to > reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the > sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through > the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based > on your recommendation, it seems to be. > Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine > today for other work. > Phil > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews > wrote: > > ? > > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about > that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. > To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for > the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge > the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel > that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have > never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is > something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > Thanks, > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Nov 24 16:26:38 2019 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 00:26:38 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> References: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> Message-ID: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> Hi Phil, If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews > wrote: ? Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Nov 24 16:29:05 2019 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 00:29:05 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> References: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> Message-ID: <001301d5a31e$f6cca210$e465e630$@gmail.com> To add: The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. Simple as that :) Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews > wrote: ? Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steve at artwithcars.com Sun Nov 24 16:31:35 2019 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 15:31:35 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <001301d5a31e$f6cca210$e465e630$@gmail.com> References: <001301d5a31e$f6cca210$e465e630$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Mmmmmmm schnitzel ~Steve > On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: > > ? > To add: > The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. > The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. > Simple as that J > > Cheers > Chris > > > Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot > Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 > An: Friends Of Triumph > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support > > Interesting, Chris: > My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. > Thanks for the input. > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. > > Regards, Tony > > On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: > Here are some photos: > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > Regards, Tony > > On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: > Thanks again, Tony: > The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. > Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. > Phil > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > Thanks, > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Nov 24 16:58:39 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 23:58:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Center main support References: <1489443971.4803851.1574639919708.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1489443971.4803851.1574639919708@mail.yahoo.com> Ist das nicht ein schnitzel bank?Ja, das ist ein schnitzel bank! Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Sunday, November 24, 2019,?Steven Belfer via Fot??wrote: Mmmmmmm schnitzel? ~Steve On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: ? #yiv7704180401 #yiv7704180401 -- _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Wingdings;panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Consolas;panose-1:2 11 6 9 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv7704180401 #yiv7704180401 p.yiv7704180401MsoNormal, #yiv7704180401 li.yiv7704180401MsoNormal, #yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7704180401 a:link, #yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7704180401 a:visited, #yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7704180401 pre {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv7704180401 p.yiv7704180401msonormal0, #yiv7704180401 li.yiv7704180401msonormal0, #yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401msonormal0 {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401HTMLVorformatiertZchn {font-family:Consolas;}#yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401E-MailFormatvorlage22 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv7704180401 .yiv7704180401MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt;}#yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401WordSection1 {}#yiv7704180401 To add: The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. Simple as that J ? Cheers Chris ? ? Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support ? Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: ? Wow!? It's very nicely done.? Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: ? ? ? ? ? Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill.? Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill ?Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap ?is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. ?I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.? Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.? To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap? and you must use longer bolts. ?Some? builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews ? On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center.Curious as to the need for the extra support.Thanks,Phil Gott114 TR4A ?Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net ?http://www.fot-racing.com ?Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com ? ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Nov 24 16:58:39 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 23:58:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Center main support References: <1489443971.4803851.1574639919708.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1489443971.4803851.1574639919708@mail.yahoo.com> Ist das nicht ein schnitzel bank?Ja, das ist ein schnitzel bank! Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Sunday, November 24, 2019,?Steven Belfer via Fot??wrote: Mmmmmmm schnitzel? ~Steve On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: ? #yiv7704180401 #yiv7704180401 -- _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Wingdings;panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Consolas;panose-1:2 11 6 9 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv7704180401 #yiv7704180401 p.yiv7704180401MsoNormal, #yiv7704180401 li.yiv7704180401MsoNormal, #yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7704180401 a:link, #yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7704180401 a:visited, #yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7704180401 pre {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv7704180401 p.yiv7704180401msonormal0, #yiv7704180401 li.yiv7704180401msonormal0, #yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401msonormal0 {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401HTMLVorformatiertZchn {font-family:Consolas;}#yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401E-MailFormatvorlage22 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv7704180401 .yiv7704180401MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt;}#yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401WordSection1 {}#yiv7704180401 To add: The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. Simple as that J ? Cheers Chris ? ? Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support ? Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: ? Wow!? It's very nicely done.? Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: ? ? ? ? ? Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill.? Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill ?Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap ?is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. ?I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.? Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.? To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap? and you must use longer bolts. ?Some? builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews ? On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center.Curious as to the need for the extra support.Thanks,Phil Gott114 TR4A ?Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net ?http://www.fot-racing.com ?Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com ? ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Sun Nov 24 17:57:45 2019 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 00:57:45 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> References: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C4445D2-1FD6-440F-87F7-62E897A123ED@mhc-law.com> Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: ? Hi Phil, If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews > wrote: ? Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From chasgee22 at gmail.com Sun Nov 24 18:28:02 2019 From: chasgee22 at gmail.com (chasgee22 at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 17:28:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That?s funny, I said the same thing to myself when I read his email! Chuck > On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:31 PM, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > > ?Mmmmmmm schnitzel > > ~Steve > > >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> To add: >> The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. >> The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. >> Simple as that J >> >> Cheers >> Chris >> >> >> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot >> Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 >> An: Friends Of Triumph >> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support >> >> Interesting, Chris: >> My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. >> Thanks for the input. >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: >> >> ? >> Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. >> >> Regards, Tony >> >> On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Here are some photos: >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >> >> ? >> I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. >> >> Regards, Tony >> >> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Thanks again, Tony: >> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >> Phil >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >> >> ? >> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >> >> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >> >> Regards, Tony Drews >> >> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >> Thanks, >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Sun Nov 24 19:27:43 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 18:27:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <4C4445D2-1FD6-440F-87F7-62E897A123ED@mhc-law.com> References: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> <4C4445D2-1FD6-440F-87F7-62E897A123ED@mhc-law.com> Message-ID: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> My brother worked for Gran Turismo Jaguar in Northern Ohio a few decades ago and I remember well him telling me they taught him how to straighten cranks with a mallet of some sort, set up in a rotational device. I thought it was barbaric at the time having never heard of that sort of thing, but GTJ definitely knew what they were doing. GTJ built championship winning Jags. Dave H. > On November 24, 2019 at 4:57 PM "John H. Hasty via Fot" wrote: > > Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Phil, > > > > > > > > If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. > > > > They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. > > > > They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. > > > > > > > > I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. > > > > > > > > For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. > > > > Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. > > > > > > > > Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. > > > > > > > > Cheers > > > > Chris > > > > > > > > > > > > Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot > > Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 > > An: Friends Of Triumph > > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support > > > > > > > > Interesting, Chris: > > > > My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. > > Thanks for the input. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. > > > > > > Regards, Tony > > > > > > On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Here are some photos: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews mailto:tony at tonydrews.com wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > > > > > > > > > Regards, Tony > > > > > > > > > > On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again, Tony: > > > > > > > > > > > > The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. > > > > > > > > > > > > Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. > > > > > > > > > > > > Phil > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews mailto:tony at tonydrews.com wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Regards, Tony Drews > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Phil Gott > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 114 TR4A > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maddhatt69 at aol.com Sun Nov 24 20:38:27 2019 From: maddhatt69 at aol.com (Mathieu W. Huovinen) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 03:38:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question References: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Mon Nov 25 03:58:04 2019 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 10:58:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <532642969.3231030.1574679484941@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mathieu, Haven?t heard of that myself, but you didn?t mention the condition of the timing chain tensioner. ? Was it new recently? ? Perhaps the spring is too relaxed to keep proper tension on the chain. ? Also look at the timing cover where the tensioner rides. ? Has it worn a big groove into the timing cover? ?Maybe it?s getting held up. ? Compare it with a new tensioner spring, and see if the arc is relaxed a bit. That?s what I?d check first, but maybe you?ve done that. ? ?Is it a stock cam wheel, or is it an adjustable one? ?I?m assuming stock... Hope that helps!Dave Gott Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38 PM, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 25 04:21:12 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 11:21:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <181980779.3210587.1574680872086@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Nov 25 05:07:02 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 07:07:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Thanks everyone for the input! Very helpful! Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:28 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > ? > My brother worked for Gran Turismo Jaguar in Northern Ohio a few decades ago and I remember well him telling me they taught him how to straighten cranks with a mallet of some sort, set up in a rotational device. I thought it was barbaric at the time having never heard of that sort of thing, but GTJ definitely knew what they were doing. GTJ built championship winning Jags. > Dave H. >>> On November 24, 2019 at 4:57 PM "John H. Hasty via Fot" wrote: >>> >>> Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Hi Phil, >>> >>> >>> >>> If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. >>> >>> They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. >>> >>> They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. >>> >>> >>> >>> I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. >>> >>> >>> >>> For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. >>> >>> Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. >>> >>> >>> >>> Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot >>> Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 >>> An: Friends Of Triumph >>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support >>> >>> >>> >>> Interesting, Chris: >>> >>> My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. >>> Thanks for the input. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: >>> >>> Here are some photos: >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >>> >>> Thanks again, Tony: >>> >>> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >>> >>> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >>> >>> Phil >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>> >>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> >>> >>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>> >>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Phil Gott >>> >>> 114 TR4A >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Nov 25 05:07:02 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 07:07:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Thanks everyone for the input! Very helpful! Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:28 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > ? > My brother worked for Gran Turismo Jaguar in Northern Ohio a few decades ago and I remember well him telling me they taught him how to straighten cranks with a mallet of some sort, set up in a rotational device. I thought it was barbaric at the time having never heard of that sort of thing, but GTJ definitely knew what they were doing. GTJ built championship winning Jags. > Dave H. >>> On November 24, 2019 at 4:57 PM "John H. Hasty via Fot" wrote: >>> >>> Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Hi Phil, >>> >>> >>> >>> If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. >>> >>> They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. >>> >>> They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. >>> >>> >>> >>> I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. >>> >>> >>> >>> For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. >>> >>> Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. >>> >>> >>> >>> Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot >>> Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 >>> An: Friends Of Triumph >>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support >>> >>> >>> >>> Interesting, Chris: >>> >>> My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. >>> Thanks for the input. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: >>> >>> Here are some photos: >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >>> >>> Thanks again, Tony: >>> >>> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >>> >>> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >>> >>> Phil >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>> >>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> >>> >>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>> >>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Phil Gott >>> >>> 114 TR4A >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maddhatt69 at aol.com Mon Nov 25 05:14:06 2019 From: maddhatt69 at aol.com (Mathieu W. Huovinen) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 12:14:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <181980779.3210587.1574680872086@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> <181980779.3210587.1574680872086@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1236513597.6131929.1574684046086@mail.yahoo.com> Gents, I do have an adjustable cam gear and it was tight. Double roller, cam gear, and crank gear all sourced from Jigsaw Racking UK about two years ago. Maybe 5 weekends worth of use. I did reuse the chain tensioner that was in the timing chain cover (unknown use- likely stock from the early 70s) and I will admit it is the tensioner for a single chain- it also seems pretty worn. I am ordering a double chain tensioner from Moss this a.m. and see how it differs and will swap them out. Thanks for the responses! Mathieu -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang To: fot ; Mathieu W. Huovinen Sent: Mon, Nov 25, 2019 6:21 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Mon Nov 25 09:21:42 2019 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 11:21:42 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: SVRA's Black Friday Savings Start Now! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: FYI- SVRA Black Friday registration savings. ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: SVRA Date: Mon, Nov 25, 2019 at 10:47 AM Subject: SVRA's Black Friday Savings Start Now! To: johnstydo at gmail.com No Images? Click here [image: BLACK FRIDAY SALE] *SAVE ALL WEEK* ALL SVRA 2020 Sprint Race Entries*$100 OFF* *Shop Our Black Friday Sale - Starting Monday 11/25 and ending Friday 11/29 at MIDNIGHT. Save $100 On All Event Sprint Race Entries. No Limit. No Coupon Necessary. * *Offer valid on new entries only. Offer is not valid for Marque Reunion Entries.** Online Sprint Race Entry Fee Reflects $100 Savings.* REGISTER ONLINE NOW SVRA 1312 Regency Court Southlake, TX 76092 Forward Unsubscribe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Nov 24 23:56:35 2019 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 07:56:35 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> References: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> <4C4445D2-1FD6-440F-87F7-62E897A123ED@mhc-law.com> <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <000901d5a35d$7de20c70$79a62550$@gmail.com> Dave, it is fascinating to watch, how two people straightening a crank within few minutes. One is holding the bearing journal in place on a holder and the other give it a blow and measuring. Very cool. Once I helped myself. Nobody had a hand free, so I held the crank in place :) Cheers Chris Von: DAVE HOGYE Gesendet: Montag, 25. November 2019 03:28 An: John H. Hasty ; John H. Hasty via Fot ; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support My brother worked for Gran Turismo Jaguar in Northern Ohio a few decades ago and I remember well him telling me they taught him how to straighten cranks with a mallet of some sort, set up in a rotational device. I thought it was barbaric at the time having never heard of that sort of thing, but GTJ definitely knew what they were doing. GTJ built championship winning Jags. Dave H. On November 24, 2019 at 4:57 PM "John H. Hasty via Fot" > wrote: Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot > wrote: Hi Phil, If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. Cheers Chris Von: Fot > Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews > wrote: Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maddhatt69 at aol.com Tue Nov 26 05:54:25 2019 From: maddhatt69 at aol.com (Mathieu W. Huovinen) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:54:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question References: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189@mail.yahoo.com> Bob and FOT, I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned! Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maddhatt69 at aol.com Tue Nov 26 05:55:35 2019 From: maddhatt69 at aol.com (Mathieu W. Huovinen) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:55:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question References: <1442085095.168315.1574772935627.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1442085095.168315.1574772935627@mail.yahoo.com> On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20191126_074321.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2156043 bytes Desc: not available URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 26 06:26:14 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 13:26:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1625959716.194668.1574772865189@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1277791933.3595845.1574774774149@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer".? Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT, I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned! Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick.parent at att.net Tue Nov 26 07:28:38 2019 From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 14:28:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1277791933.3595845.1574774774149@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1625959716.194668.1574772865189@mail.yahoo.com> <1277791933.3595845.1574774774149@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1781290446.3615804.1574778518186@mail.yahoo.com> That's about normal, why in the sam hell are you using that heavy ass double chain set up?? Come on man get it together. On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 08:29:26 AM EST, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer".? Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT, I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned! Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Tue Nov 26 10:32:59 2019 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:32:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Not a Triumph for Sale Message-ID: <67929DF2-5055-45C1-94C9-61FEE72F64E4@me.com> A friend of mine is going to sell his 1964 E type coupe, numbers matching, opalescent silver blue, original color, restored by Terry Lippincott. He?s thinking about $135k. Just north of Philadelphia PA. Beautiful car. Let me know if you want an introduction before it goes to a consignor or on BAT. I sold my 69 25 years ago. Oops. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4328.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 91965 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3182.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 189682 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Nov 26 10:33:10 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:33:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question References: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422@mail.yahoo.com> Damned right, my 1300 small-crank has always had a single row chain, for that reason, that double-row setup is heavy.At 6-8 hour TBO, the chain & tensioner were routine replacement anyhow.Also not all chains & tensioners are created equal, some vendors are now offering quality chains as an option, and the tensioners should be plated, they last a lot longer. Glen heavy ass double chain set up?? -----Original Message----- From: Rick Parent via Fot To: fot ; Mathieu W. Huovinen ; Robert Lang Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 9:28 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question That's about normal, why in the sam hell are you using that heavy ass double chain set up?? Come on man get it together. On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 08:29:26 AM EST, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer".? Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT,I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned!Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Wed Nov 27 05:17:09 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 13:17:09 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <488929084.42707901.1574857029546.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> If the chain tensioner is badly worn (deep grooves) after a short time, this is a sign that the chain is moving wildly. This can happen when the chain gears are not properly aligned : aligning the gears is very important and should be checked when a billet steel crankshaft or non original gears (Vernier camshaft gear) are fitted. I don't know for the Spitfire chain tensioner, but the TR 4 cyl tensioner does next to nothing for keeping the chain quietly. Does someone know of a trick to replace this very weak tensioner with something stronger, or a tensioner that is working with the oil pressure? Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "rick parent" , "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 26 november 2019 18:33:10 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question Damned right, my 1300 small-crank has always had a single row chain, for that reason, that double-row setup is heavy. At 6-8 hour TBO, the chain & tensioner were routine replacement anyhow. Also not all chains & tensioners are created equal, some vendors are now offering quality chains as an option, and the tensioners should be plated, they last a lot longer. Glen heavy ass double chain set up?? -----Original Message----- From: Rick Parent via Fot To: fot ; Mathieu W. Huovinen ; Robert Lang Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 9:28 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question That's about normal, why in the sam hell are you using that heavy ass double chain set up?? Come on man get it together. On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 08:29:26 AM EST, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer". Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya, Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT, I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned! Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang < robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya, Bob Lang 339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together. Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com ] _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net ] _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Nov 27 06:09:03 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 13:09:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <488929084.42707901.1574857029546.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422@mail.yahoo.com> <488929084.42707901.1574857029546.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <353385799.3909565.1574860143901@mail.yahoo.com> Yes the alignment is another good point, misalignment can eat up a chain and set of gears quickly.The tensioner design is fine for a stock engine but it's just another point where we're pushing it way beyond design limits.Ideally it should have a spring/oil pressure pad ala MG, Jaguar, etc.Making the best of a bad situation, good quality gears and chain, and a plated tensioner, will last a long time.I also polish the free end of the tensioner where it slides on the inside of the timing cover, some have very rough sharp edges and will "scrape" right through the cover.(Yeah some of you are nodding your head and laughing at memories of elusive oil leaks...)Glen -----Original Message----- From: van.mulders.marcel To: fubog1 Cc: fot Sent: Wed, Nov 27, 2019 7:17 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question If? the chain tensioner is badly worn (deep grooves) after a short time, this is a sign that the chain is moving wildly. This can happen when the chain gears are not properly aligned : aligning the gears is very important and should be checked when a billet steel crankshaft or non original gears (Vernier camshaft gear) are fitted. I don't know for the Spitfire chain tensioner, but the TR 4 cyl? tensioner does next to nothing for keeping? the chain quietly. Does someone know of a trick to replace this very weak tensioner with something stronger, or a tensioner that is working with the oil pressure??Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "rick parent" , "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 26 november 2019 18:33:10 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question Damned right, my 1300 small-crank has always had a single row chain, for that reason, that double-row setup is heavy.At 6-8 hour TBO, the chain & tensioner were routine replacement anyhow.Also not all chains & tensioners are created equal, some vendors are now offering quality chains as an option, and the tensioners should be plated, they last a lot longer. Glen heavy ass double chain set up?? -----Original Message----- From: Rick Parent via Fot To: fot ; Mathieu W. Huovinen ; Robert Lang Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 9:28 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question That's about normal, why in the sam hell are you using that heavy ass double chain set up?? Come on man get it together. On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 08:29:26 AM EST, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer".? Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT,I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned!Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From macdonaldp at rogers.com Wed Nov 27 08:34:54 2019 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 10:34:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Huffaker TR8 coupe Clone References: <009901d5a538$395067a0$abf136e0$.ref@rogers.com> Message-ID: <009901d5a538$395067a0$abf136e0$@rogers.com> It appears that the car is now for sale, I have a bit more info if anyone wants to follow up. Car appears to be a high quality build, dry sump engine, round fender flare Huffaker body, $8-10K. Car needs to be raced. Paul From: Joe Guinan [mailto:joeg at neb.rr.com] Sent: August 5, 2019 4:45 PM To: 'Paul MacDonald' Cc: gregoryallansharpe at yahoo.com Subject: RE: [Fot] Questions about TR8 Race Car Very cool. That?s good info. Thanks, Paul. From: Paul MacDonald Sent: Monday, August 5, 2019 1:46 PM To: 'MACDONALD' ; 'Joe Guinan' Cc: gregoryallansharpe at yahoo.com Subject: RE: [Fot] Questions about TR8 Race Car Posted some info https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/motorsports-forum.22/tr-8-gt1-huffaker-clone.1637638/ Paul From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MACDONALD via Fot Sent: August 4, 2019 9:49 AM To: Joe Guinan Cc: gregoryallansharpe at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Questions about TR8 Race Car I have a bunch of info on the car. Talked to Chuck a number of times over the past 10 -15 years. Will share what I have, when I get to my pc. Paul Sent from my iPhone On Aug 4, 2019, at 9:33 AM, Joe Guinan via Fot wrote: Possible GT1 Huffaker Clone ? Greg Sharpe is asking questions in The Triumph Experience ?Motorsports? forum Link - https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/motorsports-forum22/tr-8-gt1-huffaker-clone.1637638/ I know almost nothing about these, so suggested we might find some FOT members with information. If you are interested in providing any information, please follow the link and post on the forum or reply directly to Greg at gregoryallansharpe at yahoo.com. Thanks in advance! Joe Guinan Fremont, Nebraska _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://wwwfot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/macdonaldp at rogers.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Wed Nov 27 20:35:58 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 20:35:58 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Happy Thanksgiving! Message-ID: <01c66a65-e8e1-06e2-0476-100ff072b145@bradakis.com> For those of you who celebrate the occasion, enjoy!? And remember to set your scales back 10 pounds before you go to bed, in anticipation of the big meal. mjb. From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Nov 29 11:39:19 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2019 18:39:19 +0000 Subject: [Fot] MORE FOT SWAG In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: FWIW, Lands Ends business is running a black Friday deal today only. Free embroidery AND 25% off. Use code "EBLACKFRIDAY" at checkout. Sorry Brian. ? Marty ________________________________ From: marty Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2019 4:37 PM To: FOT Subject: Re: FOT SWAG I'm sure everybody will want to be looking their finest at the 2020 Kastner Cup. So, just a reminder that FOT has their own storefront at Lands End Business. I received a call from them today and they are running a 25% off sale through December 4th. Somewhere at the end of your order you will have a spot to plug in code "OUT4" in a box to claim your discount. Don't expect bulk t-shirt prices, there stuff is nice, the embroidery is top notch and most importantly you can order one of. Below is my original email explaining how to order. Marty ________________________________ From: marty Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 8:50 PM To: FOT Subject: FOT SWAG Ok boys and girls. We now have the ability of purchasing FOT bling. There is now a FOT store front on the Lands End Business website. See the instructions below for a link. This is for getting the FOT logo embroidered on any item in their catalog. It is not for silk screened items. I am starting with the black and white coat of arms that was used in the 2012 special shirt run. Once you run through the sequence a time or two it is pretty simple. I have tried to explain it below. I have used Land Ends Business for other car clubs store fronts and it is top quality and best of all you can return things. Give it a try. Marty Sukey 1, go to https://business.landsend.com/store/fot/ 2, set up an account for yourself and log in. 3, pick an item you might want. 4, click on apply logo, 5, select the FOT logo, 6,if you want, select change colors. Here you can experiment with changing colors on the logo to better suit the color of shirt you pick. If you hit select new colors you will get a drop down with multiple boxes. Try putting a different color in each box and see how it effects the logo. Then you can tweak it as needed. 7, select location. 8, hit apply logo. 9, hit cancel or add to bag. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sat Nov 30 04:58:08 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 12:58:08 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads Message-ID: <976471692.58670073.1575115088433.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> I've some problems with a TR6 race engine : the engine is pinking and overheating. Compression ratio is 12.5. Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference between 6 cylinder heads. Does anyone know which cars do have which cylinderheads? Can I add these passages on my cylinderhead, hoping for better cooling? I've been working on this engine now and then since 2 years. It belongs to a racecar a friend of mine has built. He has lost interest in this racing project and I bought the car. I'd like to see it on a racetrack some day. Marcel -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gt6steve at aol.com Sat Nov 30 08:35:14 2019 From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 15:35:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads References: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> Are you running a restrictor in the T-stat housing? ?I ended up with one with a hole about the size of a dime. ?Made a huge difference. ?Also the highest pressure cap you can find Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, November 30, 2019,?van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot??wrote: I've some problems with a?TR6 race engine : the engine is pinking and overheating. Compression ratio is 12.5. Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. Does anyone know which cars do have which cylinderheads? Can I add these passages on my cylinderhead, hoping for better cooling? I've been working on this engine now and then since 2 years. It belongs to a racecar a friend of mine has built. He has lost interest in this racing project and I bought the car. I'd like to see it on a racetrack some day. Marcel_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Nov 30 08:50:06 2019 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 08:50:06 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> References: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping for an earlier head that still has all the passages. TeriAnn Who knows nothing about TR6 heads From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sat Nov 30 09:08:15 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 17:08:15 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: References: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <807951668.59641828.1575130095427.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> That's interesting and may well be the reason. The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. Marcel ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- Van: "fot" Aan: "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping for an earlier head that still has all the passages. TeriAnn Who knows nothing about TR6 heads _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Nov 30 09:55:54 2019 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 09:55:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: <807951668.59641828.1575130095427.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> <807951668.59641828.1575130095427.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: On 11/30/19 9:08 AM, van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be wrote: > That's interesting and may well be the reason. > The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. > Marcel There are usually thin walls between water passages and exhaust passage ways and the spaces around the combustion chambers follow curves. It is not just a straight drilled hole. I suggest you chalk up your existing head as practice and start again with an earlier head. TeriAnn > > ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- > Van: "fot" > Aan: "fot" > Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 > Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads > > Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head > (probably also from a TR6 , but from a?? Triumph saloon is also possible) > : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My > cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other > cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of > this difference?? between 6 cylinder heads. > > > Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking > in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their > engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing > coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or > eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head > intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping > for an earlier head that still has all the passages. > > TeriAnn > Who knows nothing about TR6 heads > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 30 10:54:39 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 12:54:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43CD99DE-E68B-486F-95EA-26AA7CBF9889@aol.com> Make certain that the gasket also has the accommodating holes! Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 30, 2019, at 11:56 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot wrote: > > ? > On 11/30/19 9:08 AM, van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be wrote: >> That's interesting and may well be the reason. >> The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. >> Marcel > There are usually thin walls between water passages and exhaust passage ways and the spaces around the combustion chambers follow curves. It is not just a straight drilled hole. > > I suggest you chalk up your existing head as practice and start again with an earlier head. > > TeriAnn > > > > > >> >> ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- >> Van: "fot" >> Aan: "fot" >> Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 >> Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads >> >> Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head >> (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) >> : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My >> cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other >> cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of >> this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. >> >> >> Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking >> in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their >> engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing >> coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or >> eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head >> intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping >> for an earlier head that still has all the passages. >> >> TeriAnn >> Who knows nothing about TR6 heads >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 30 10:54:39 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 12:54:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43CD99DE-E68B-486F-95EA-26AA7CBF9889@aol.com> Make certain that the gasket also has the accommodating holes! Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 30, 2019, at 11:56 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot wrote: > > ? > On 11/30/19 9:08 AM, van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be wrote: >> That's interesting and may well be the reason. >> The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. >> Marcel > There are usually thin walls between water passages and exhaust passage ways and the spaces around the combustion chambers follow curves. It is not just a straight drilled hole. > > I suggest you chalk up your existing head as practice and start again with an earlier head. > > TeriAnn > > > > > >> >> ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- >> Van: "fot" >> Aan: "fot" >> Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 >> Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads >> >> Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head >> (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) >> : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My >> cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other >> cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of >> this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. >> >> >> Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking >> in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their >> engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing >> coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or >> eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head >> intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping >> for an earlier head that still has all the passages. >> >> TeriAnn >> Who knows nothing about TR6 heads >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sat Nov 30 12:01:34 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 20:01:34 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: <43CD99DE-E68B-486F-95EA-26AA7CBF9889@aol.com> References: <43CD99DE-E68B-486F-95EA-26AA7CBF9889@aol.com> Message-ID: <906682385.60352749.1575140494131.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Phill, Mordy Dunst made the plain copper gaskets for me, together with steel O-rings. I asked him to NOT make the coolant passages in the gaskets. That's the reason why it took so long to notice that my cylinderhead has fewer passages! I think I'm going to drill the missing holes in the cylinderhead (and in the gasket!). Teri Ann, I would have to drill from beneath toward the water passage in the bottom left of your picture : it seems not to be very delicate. Probably the casting is the same for earlier and later cylinderheads, only the drillings and machining are different? The holes I have to drill are in line with the holes for the studs and the TR6 cyl head is similar with the picture. Marcel Van: "Phil Gott" Aan: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" Cc: "van mulders marcel" , "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 18:54:39 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads Make certain that the gasket also has the accommodating holes! Sent from my iPhone On Nov 30, 2019, at 11:56 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot wrote: BQ_BEGIN BQ_END On 11/30/19 9:08 AM, [ mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] wrote: BQ_BEGIN That's interesting and may well be the reason. The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. Marcel BQ_END There are usually thin walls between water passages and exhaust passage ways and the spaces around the combustion chambers follow curves. It is not just a straight drilled hole. I suggest you chalk up your existing head as practice and start again with an earlier head. TeriAnn BQ_BEGIN ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- Van: "fot" [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | ] Aan: "fot" [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | ] Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a?? Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference?? between 6 cylinder heads. Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping for an earlier head that still has all the passages. TeriAnn Who knows nothing about TR6 heads BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Fri Nov 1 05:16:52 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 12:16:52 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 In-Reply-To: <321072713.2631548.1572560173031@mail.yahoo.com> References: <4F17362B-53A2-410B-943E-CC756DE02222@me.com> <2070172059.354903.1572551433986@myemail.cox.net> <321072713.2631548.1572560173031@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1176759451.142358840.1572607012964.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> For a TR6 engine, I used Isky valve springs VWE005SP116 With 320lbs/in rate (5.72kgs/mm). With an installed height of 33.8mm and full open height of 21.3mm, seat pressure is 34kgs (about 75 lbs) and 105kgs (230lbs) at full lift. So lift is 12.5mm/0.49in and then the seat pressure is already rather low. Coil bind height of these springs is about 18mm so a bit more lift is possible. It there is enough material thickness, the seats for the springs can be reamed out to get the necessary clearance between the windings. Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: spitlist at cox.net, "Scott Janzen" , "fot" Verzonden: Donderdag 31 oktober 2019 23:16:13 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 Try British Frame and Engine. They are not as stiff as the Isky Springs, but can tolerate more lift. Be sure you have adequate seat pressure as well as sufficient pressure at full lift, per your cam specs. These work well with the Tilden 298 cam from Ken Knight. -----Original Message----- From: JOE CURRY via Fot To: Scott Janzen ; Scott Janzen via Fot Sent: Thu, Oct 31, 2019 4:19 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 I bought my Isky dual spring set through Ted Schumacher to match his cam that he also sold me. Works great. Talk to him about the details. On October 31, 2019 at 11:49 AM Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: I?m trying to accommodate a high lift cam/rocker combination and the Isky springs (VWE005/SP116) I?ve been using will be right at full bind with this combo. What are you all using - I?m looking for something that can handle about 0.54? of net valve lift. Let me know what spring mfr/part number you are using and I?ll take it from there. Thanks! BQ_BEGIN _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/spitlist at cox.net BQ_END _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Nov 1 11:30:22 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Fri, 1 Nov 2019 17:30:22 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 2020 KASTNER CUP SECOND CALL / and some updates In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Now that its November I'll give some updating. I have had replies to the email below from 30 drivers. That's a good start. ?. If you are planning on racing at the Kastner Cup next June and have not replied please do so, or if you know any triumph racers that aren't on the internet thingy please reply on their behalf. This will help greatly with planning, both with my working with SVRA and some internal FOT planning. I don't want to leave anybody out. There was some questions regarding staying at the track in your rigs. I spoke to Mid-Ohio this morning and they said staying in your RV in the paddock was not an issue. There was no mention of any additional cost associated with this. RV, van, trailer, whose to judge. ?. There are no electric hookups in our paddock. The track does have a dump station near the false grid area. Also the porta john sucker folks will be cruising the paddocks and will empty your tanks in the paddock if so desired. If you have a long haul home I received permission for us to park in the grass area up toward the gate if you want to spend the night and head out in the morning. We just have to clear the paved paddocks as they have a track rental Monday morning. That might be a fun Sunday night FOT party to wrap up the weekend festivities. Marty ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of marty via Fot Sent: Wednesday, September 25, 2019 9:21 AM To: FOT Subject: [Fot] 2020 KASTNER CUP FIRST CALL / info needed! I was going to wait until after the first of the year to do this but figured that it might be a good idea to start now while people are thinking about it and before your rigs are put away for the winter. I had a meeting earlier in the year with SVRA regarding our paddock spots. We will have our own spot on paved surface. Open trailers will be required to park in the grass .It will be in the upper paddock but will be "concentrated" as the paved paddocks are not all that expansive. If it rains a bunch like it did this year and the track closes off the grass paddocks things will get cozy. SVRA will work with us and I have agreed to provide them with some counts and space requirements in advance. Hopefully this will make things go smoother once we arrive. So, here is what I need from you if you are planning on attending. 1) name, 2) tow vehicle size, 3) trailer size, 4) awning/canopy size, 5) will you be staying at the track in your rig? 6) would you be interested in having our own FOT dinner Friday evening for around $25 a head? This is not a commitment to attend on your part but will make the planning process much easier so if you are just thinking you will be there please reply or email me direct at trmarty at hotmail.com. Info will be used to size our paddock and determine how big of tent we will need to rent. The Friday night dinner is just in the investigation stages but I need to know how many people might be interested. This event is looking to be a pretty big deal so I am hoping to do a bunch of pre-event work with SVRA well in advance so things go smoothly once we arrive. Thanks, Marty Sukey -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Fri Nov 1 19:41:01 2019 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (rkramer56) Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2019 20:41:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 race car for sale Message-ID: <5dbcdeae.1c69fb81.c66de.77a4@mx.google.com> I don't know if anyone gas seen the TR4 race car for sale on Facebook. You can contact the seller at:stevedowningdevelopment at gmail.comSent from my Galaxy Tab? S2 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From awashatko at wi.rr.com Sat Nov 2 14:11:47 2019 From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko) Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 15:11:47 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 Radiator Message-ID: <0FFF0BBA-07C5-4334-9470-452D22C7D66A@wi.rr.com> FoT?ers I have a TR6 radiator that is in very good condition if anyone is interested. Allen Sent from my iPhone From my71spit13 at yahoo.com Sun Nov 3 07:15:18 2019 From: my71spit13 at yahoo.com (Shawn Frank) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 14:15:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 102, Issue 271 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1404345986.874510.1572790518184@mail.yahoo.com> If anyone needs more info on the racer TR4, I am in Des Moines and Steve Downing is a friend. Fyi... Shawn Frank The Vintage Triumph Magazine - Editor North American Triumphs (FKA Spitfire & GT6 Magazine) - Owner Des Moines Concours d'Elegance - Recruiting Chair Continued Legacy Photo - Owner Iowa British Car Club FOT/VTR#94692/NASS#746 Drive Away Cancer Iowa - Driver 515-339-4228 '71 Triumph Spitfire MKIV "Gertrude" '72 Triumph GT6 MK3 '65 Triumph TR4A "Johnny" On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 1:00 PM, fot-request at autox.team.net wrote: Send Fot mailing list submissions to ??? fot at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to ??? fot-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at ??? fot-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Fot digest..." Today's Topics: ? 1. TR4 race car for sale (rkramer56) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2019 20:41:01 -0500 From: rkramer56 To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] TR4 race car for sale Message-ID: <5dbcdeae.1c69fb81.c66de.77a4 at mx.google.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I don't know if anyone gas seen the TR4 race car for sale on Facebook. You can contact the seller at:stevedowningdevelopment at gmail.comSent from my Galaxy Tab? S2 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot ------------------------------ End of Fot Digest, Vol 102, Issue 271 ************************************* -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Sun Nov 3 07:53:22 2019 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 08:53:22 -0600 Subject: [Fot] TR4 rolling frame needed Message-ID: I showed Marc MaGahee around my TR collection Friday. He is planning on building an Ambro TR4. While I have a couple of complete cars he could use what he really needs is a rolling chassis. It?ll save a salvageable car. There is a TR3 and a 4A IRS rolling chassis with mechanicals for sale right now but not a live axle. Anyone know if a similar TR4, preferably later years? Sent from my iPhone From dlhogye at comcast.net Sun Nov 3 08:30:19 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 07:30:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] TR4 rolling frame needed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1010125570.315746.1572795020219@connect.xfinity.com> I know where there are two TR4 solid axle frames. One is bare and one is rolling. They are pre-4A. They are located is Los Gatos, CA. There is also a fairly complete TR3B. Dave H. 831-234-4928 > On November 3, 2019 at 6:53 AM Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > > > I showed Marc MaGahee around my TR collection Friday. He is planning on building an Ambro TR4. While I have a couple of complete cars he could use what he really needs is a rolling chassis. It?ll save a salvageable car. There is a TR3 and a 4A IRS rolling chassis with mechanicals for sale right now but not a live axle. Anyone know if a similar TR4, preferably later years? > > Sent from my iPhone > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > From ofracer at gmail.com Mon Nov 4 06:49:01 2019 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 08:49:01 -0500 Subject: [Fot] SVRA Watkins Glen NON Reimbursement In-Reply-To: <635108642.808954.1572089744090@mail.yahoo.com> References: <635108642.808954.1572089744090@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I called Kathy last week and was entered for the K Cup, with the WG credit, in less than 5 minutes. thanks mike h On Sat, Oct 26, 2019 at 7:36 AM Rick Parent via Fot wrote: > May I suggest you guys get a hold of Kathy kathy at svra she would be glad > to take care of you and if you feel the need tony at svra.com > > Rick > > On Friday, October 25, 2019, 07:55:36 PM EDT, John Styduhar via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > > > Brian, thank you for the explanation because I was unable to reach anyone > with SVRA that could provide one. I will wait and see if Tony keeps his > promise. > > On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 3:37 PM Brian Schirano > wrote: > > Interesting coincidence, I just followed up with Tony this morning, > responded almost immediately with "we put a credit on account. Not your > credit card. Checks will not go out until we finished this weekends year > end event at savannah" > > Brian > > On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 3:06 PM John Styduhar via Fot > wrote: > > Did any TR drivers who entered the SVRA event at Watkins Glen and > requested a cash reimbursement from SVRA receive their check yet.? > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Mon Nov 4 07:33:28 2019 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 14:33:28 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's Message-ID: <152090bde0ad467f8eb342d0159fb287@dieselperformanceparts.com> Morning Triumph Crazies, Can ambone tell me the ID dimension of the crankshaft pilot busing hole for an early 1296CC Spitfire crankshaft?? I am trying to get some pilot bearings machined to fit a transmission swap and need the OD of the crankshaft pilot bearing as well as the depth if anyone has that It would be HUGLY appreciated. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Mon Nov 4 07:59:20 2019 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 14:59:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's In-Reply-To: <89749706-75d1-b002-3af5-b8bdaf54a2de@bright.net> References: <152090bde0ad467f8eb342d0159fb287@dieselperformanceparts.com> <89749706-75d1-b002-3af5-b8bdaf54a2de@bright.net> Message-ID: Yep I was sort of sure on that but I don't have any around to measure. Thanks though. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: Ted Schumacher [mailto:tedtsimx at bright.net] Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 8:53 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig Subject: Re: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's Mark. the dimensions are all the same - 1147 through 1500 so if you have any of those around, there is your answer. Ted On 11/4/2019 9:33 AM, DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot wrote: Morning Triumph Crazies, Can ambone tell me the ID dimension of the crankshaft pilot busing hole for an early 1296CC Spitfire crankshaft?? I am trying to get some pilot bearings machined to fit a transmission swap and need the OD of the crankshaft pilot bearing as well as the depth if anyone has that It would be HUGLY appreciated. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tedtsimx at bright.net -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.png Type: image/png Size: 13119 bytes Desc: image001.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2153 bytes Desc: image002.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2472 bytes Desc: image003.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image004.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3083 bytes Desc: image004.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: image005.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 10:04:05 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:04:05 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's References: <458281986.605196.1572887046344.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <458281986.605196.1572887046344@mail.yahoo.com> The rear chunks make cool table lamp bases.I measured the one here in my office and the hole is ~.750 diameter, and ~1.125 deep.I have a new bush, it measures .752 OD & 1.125 L.Can't help w/exact dimension of the bore diameter. HTHGlen -----Original Message----- From: DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot To: fot-bounces at autox.team.net ; fot at autox.team.net ; DPPI - Mark Craig Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 9:38 am Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's <!-- #yiv6984443301 _filtered #yiv6984443301 {font-family:"Cambria Math";panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6984443301 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6984443301 {font-family:Verdana;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} #yiv6984443301 #yiv6984443301 p.yiv6984443301MsoNormal, #yiv6984443301 li.yiv6984443301MsoNormal, #yiv6984443301 div.yiv6984443301MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} #yiv6984443301 a:link, #yiv6984443301 span.yiv6984443301MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv6984443301 a:visited, #yiv6984443301 span.yiv6984443301MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv6984443301 span.yiv6984443301EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv6984443301 .yiv6984443301MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered #yiv6984443301 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #yiv6984443301 div.yiv6984443301WordSection1 {} -->Morning Triumph Crazies, ? Can ambone tell me the ID dimension of the crankshaft pilot busing hole for an early 1296CC Spitfire crankshaft?? I am trying to get some pilot bearings machined to fit a transmission swap and need the OD of the crankshaft pilot bearing as well as the depth if anyone has that It would be HUGLY appreciated. ? | | ? | Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com | | ?? | ? | ? Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com ? | ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2784 bytes Desc: not available URL: From info at dieselperformanceparts.com Mon Nov 4 10:21:20 2019 From: info at dieselperformanceparts.com (DPPI - Mark Craig) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:21:20 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's In-Reply-To: <458281986.605196.1572887046344@mail.yahoo.com> References: <458281986.605196.1572887046344.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <458281986.605196.1572887046344@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <46883eec07ff4d32bf72afc4db23f4ef@dieselperformanceparts.com> Glen you be da man thanks!!!! [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com From: fubog1 [mailto:fubog1 at aol.com] Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 11:04 AM To: DPPI - Mark Craig ; fot-bounces at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's The rear chunks make cool table lamp bases. I measured the one here in my office and the hole is ~.750 diameter, and ~1.125 deep.I have a new bush, it measures .752 OD & 1.125 L. Can't help w/exact dimension of the bore diameter. HTH Glen -----Original Message----- From: DPPI - Mark Craig via Fot > To: fot-bounces at autox.team.net >; fot at autox.team.net >; DPPI - Mark Craig > Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 9:38 am Subject: [Fot] Spit Crank dimension's Morning Triumph Crazies, Can ambone tell me the ID dimension of the crankshaft pilot busing hole for an early 1296CC Spitfire crankshaft?? I am trying to get some pilot bearings machined to fit a transmission swap and need the OD of the crankshaft pilot bearing as well as the depth if anyone has that It would be HUGLY appreciated. [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/logo_small_dppi.png] Mark Craig Diesel Performance Parts, Inc. 411 Allied Drive, Nashville, TN 37211 www.dieselperformanceparts.com [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_facebook.jpg][http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_twitter.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_googleplus.jpg] [http://dieselperformanceparts.com/media/mail/icon_social_linkedin.jpg] Phone: 615-834-0066 Fax: 615-834-9923 Email: mark at dieselperformanceparts.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: image006.png Type: image/png Size: 13118 bytes Desc: image006.png URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Mon Nov 4 10:30:18 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:30:18 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Looking for some GT6 rear wishbones Message-ID: Anybody have some GT6 rear wishbones they'd like to sell? I am missing a set for the GT6 racer. Scott (B.) -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Nov 4 10:32:28 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:32:28 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup Message-ID: It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again. Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Mon Nov 4 11:13:58 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 11:13:58 -0700 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I wish that I were attending as a driver and not just a speck tater.? Not making much progress on getting Killer put back together.? Sigh. mjb. From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 13:38:03 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 20:38:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera.He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup #yiv5513189883 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also? be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again.? Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Mon Nov 4 13:40:57 2019 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 20:40:57 +0000 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup In-Reply-To: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <539B476F-16C4-4E12-9859-75651869A18D@mhc-law.com> Way over my head! Sent from my iPhone On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: ? Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera. He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again. Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Nov 4 13:41:30 2019 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 14:41:30 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup In-Reply-To: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 2:38 PM fubog1 via Fot wrote: ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! > > 10-4, Chief. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Mon Nov 4 13:43:52 2019 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 15:43:52 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup In-Reply-To: <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: ooh, are we having valve cover races? Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera. He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again. Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 13:56:24 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 20:56:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup Sir Stan Part In-Reply-To: <751423007.702489.1572900752651@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> <751423007.702489.1572900752651@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1826488400.686427.1572900984736@mail.yahoo.com> Stan has been known to take on any & all challengers but remains undefeated, aside from a few questionable races with JK Jacksons electric machine...Rules?No steenkin' rules, just has to be based on a TR valve cover.Glen Link to a short video if it goes through- https://vimeo.com/210488591 the convenient link -----Original Message----- From: Scott Janzen via Fot To: fubog1 Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 3:44 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup ooh, are we having valve cover races? ?Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera.He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup #yiv6488750140 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also? be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again.? Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 13:56:24 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 20:56:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup Sir Stan Part In-Reply-To: <751423007.702489.1572900752651@mail.yahoo.com> References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> <751423007.702489.1572900752651@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1826488400.686427.1572900984736@mail.yahoo.com> Stan has been known to take on any & all challengers but remains undefeated, aside from a few questionable races with JK Jacksons electric machine...Rules?No steenkin' rules, just has to be based on a TR valve cover.Glen Link to a short video if it goes through- https://vimeo.com/210488591 the convenient link -----Original Message----- From: Scott Janzen via Fot To: fubog1 Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 3:44 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup ooh, are we having valve cover races? ?Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera.He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup #yiv6488750140 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also? be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again.? Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at linneyweb.com Mon Nov 4 14:38:02 2019 From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 13:38:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] 6 Italias video Message-ID: <292FC9CE-1E22-4C42-A500-A28BA9713C26@linneyweb.com> If a TR3 wasn?t a TR3, what could it be? Salvatore Ruffino asked that question some years before the TR4 came along, and the Italia, by Michelotti, was his answer. My latest film tells the story of 6 of the 330 that were ultimately produced by Vignale. They gathered together at Concorso Italiano during Monterey Car Week, and I was very generously helped by the owners to make this film.. I hope you it! -john https://youtu.be/oTH3lc7eJM0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Nov 4 14:44:23 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:44:23 +0000 Subject: [Fot] FOT valve cover racing In-Reply-To: References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: If somebody wants to chair this, it would be fun. Just keep me in the loop please. Marty ________________________________ From: Scott Janzen Sent: Monday, November 4, 2019 3:43 PM To: fubog1 Cc: trmarty at hotmail.com ; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup ooh, are we having valve cover races? Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot > wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now has an automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera. He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot > To: FOT > Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again. Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Mon Nov 4 15:13:59 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 22:13:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] FOT valve cover racing In-Reply-To: References: <938149576.692542.1572899883491.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <938149576.692542.1572899883491@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <391171675.708272.1572905639850@mail.yahoo.com> I'm JAFO... but I am in charge of handling scheduling for "Thunderpower".The only confusion would be those run on a course, or like "Thunder", it's straight line only...Glen -----Original Message----- From: marty To: Scott Janzen ; fubog1 Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 4:44 pm Subject: FOT valve cover racing #yiv1631411795 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}If somebody wants to chair this, it would be fun. Just keep me in the loop please. Marty From: Scott Janzen Sent: Monday, November 4, 2019 3:43 PM To: fubog1 Cc: trmarty at hotmail.com ; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph Subject: Re: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup?ooh, are we having valve cover races? ?Are there any rules, or is it run what you brung? On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:38 PM, fubog1 via Fot wrote: Just a rumor but scuttlebutt is that Sir Stan Part will be there with his rocket-powered Triumph racing valve cover, equipped with not only airbrake & 'chute, but it now hasan automatically deployed tailhook & all arresting gear plus an on-board video camera.He doesn't need much paddock space but could use a long straight run area... Glen ps- Crew chief Irv get ready! -----Original Message----- From: marty via Fot To: FOT Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:32 pm Subject: [Fot] 2020 Kastner cup It looks like my last post was read by you guys. With the latest responses I have an unofficial head count of 50 racers hoping to make the trek to Mid-Ohio for next years Kastner Cup. Thanks to all who have replied, having some idea of head counts will make begging for paddock space with SVRA easier, I hope. I will also? be using the counts to figure out the hospitability tent options and the possibility of a Friday night FOT dinner of some sorts at the track. If you haven't made up your mind yet don't worry I will be pestering the group again.? Hey, another entry just came over the wire, make that 51! Marty Sukey_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Mon Nov 4 17:20:26 2019 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 19:20:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] SVRA Watkins Glen NON Reimbursement In-Reply-To: References: <635108642.808954.1572089744090@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Kathy Swinford also called me today and reconciled my SVRA account and the WG reimbursement stuff so I feel better now. On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 8:49 AM Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > I called Kathy last week and was entered for the K Cup, with the WG > credit, in less than 5 minutes. > > thanks > mike h > > On Sat, Oct 26, 2019 at 7:36 AM Rick Parent via Fot > wrote: > >> May I suggest you guys get a hold of Kathy kathy at svra she would be glad >> to take care of you and if you feel the need tony at svra.com >> >> Rick >> >> On Friday, October 25, 2019, 07:55:36 PM EDT, John Styduhar via Fot < >> fot at autox.team.net> wrote: >> >> >> Brian, thank you for the explanation because I was unable to reach anyone >> with SVRA that could provide one. I will wait and see if Tony keeps his >> promise. >> >> On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 3:37 PM Brian Schirano >> wrote: >> >> Interesting coincidence, I just followed up with Tony this morning, >> responded almost immediately with "we put a credit on account. Not your >> credit card. Checks will not go out until we finished this weekends year >> end event at savannah" >> >> Brian >> >> On Fri, Oct 25, 2019 at 3:06 PM John Styduhar via Fot >> wrote: >> >> Did any TR drivers who entered the SVRA event at Watkins Glen and >> requested a cash reimbursement from SVRA receive their check yet.? >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bschirano1 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1959triumphtr3a at gmail.com Mon Nov 4 18:22:31 2019 From: 1959triumphtr3a at gmail.com (Ken Gano) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 19:22:31 -0600 Subject: [Fot] 6 Italias video In-Reply-To: <292FC9CE-1E22-4C42-A500-A28BA9713C26@linneyweb.com> References: <292FC9CE-1E22-4C42-A500-A28BA9713C26@linneyweb.com> Message-ID: <77AC91D4-273C-4A82-A131-203F550B16D9@gmail.com> Good stuff. Thanks for sharing. Ken Gano Sent from my iPad > On Nov 4, 2019, at 3:48 PM, John Linney via Fot wrote: > > ?If a TR3 wasn?t a TR3, what could it be? Salvatore Ruffino asked that question some years before the TR4 came along, and the Italia, by Michelotti, was his answer. My latest film tells the story of 6 of the 330 that were ultimately produced by Vignale. They gathered together at Concorso Italiano during Monterey Car Week, and I was very generously helped by the owners to make this film.. > > I hope you it! > > -john > > https://youtu.be/oTH3lc7eJM0 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/1959triumphtr3a at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 5 08:45:24 2019 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 15:45:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I will have no need in the future. By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank trigger for my primary ignition system.? I also tried to have a reliable back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas Points.? But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul Trapp, who I'm sure some of you know.? He was a real genius with all kinds of engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times).? He mentioned that he had used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he had worked on.? The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other Datsun/Nissan small sedans.? While we were on the phone, he had me get a stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper.? He had the Datsun distributor.? We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two distributors, and they were nearly identical.? The diameter of the shaft that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was required to get the correct height for the Triumph. >From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger.? The only modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height.? An easy conversion.? Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the dual system. When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a spare lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun distributor, and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box.? I used a stock Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time.? Some people us an MSD, etc.? Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in the attached pictures. I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up specifically for me.? So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let me know, and you can have it.? I will even pay the shipping (to the lower 48).? I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. Jack -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Distributor Lead Wire.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1960331 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Distributor wire connector.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1628030 bytes Desc: not available URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Tue Nov 5 08:59:21 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 09:59:21 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away Message-ID: I?d try it. Thanks. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Nov 5, 2019, at 9:55 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > From tony at tonydrews.com Tue Nov 5 09:05:53 2019 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 10:05:53 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Blackhawk Farms race videos Message-ID: Here are videos from my last race weekend from October 13.? The are in order by level of interest / action (best first). Best race (race 3, Feature) - good battling with Sean Alexander, passing and re-passing until his fuel pump gives up the ghost late in the race: https://youtu.be/nT1liwCUO1o Nearly as good (race 2, Sprint), less passing but still thrilling - again battling with Sean, again he drops out due to the fuel pump (which they didn't realize what the problem was since it started working again): https://youtu.be/YlFH5wMxAgk Decent race, first few laps are the best, close racing but not much passing after the first few laps - (race 1, Heat): https://youtu.be/EBbyJii60HM And lastly, the pursuit race that ended the weekend.? The passing is of slower cars or by faster cars, so no real "battling", just driving fast: https://youtu.be/9fSoj93yll8 Regards, Tony Drews From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 5 09:27:31 2019 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 16:27:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1332127734.1645794.1572971251814@mail.yahoo.com> I don't have any heads, but I'll bet someone on the FOT list knows where there is one. Jack On Tuesday, November 5, 2019, 11:16:21 AM EST, Alan Berry wrote: Need a TR4 head for my race car. Any thoughts? Thanks,? Alan #41 TR4A On Tue, Nov 5, 2019, 7:57 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I will have no need in the future. By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank trigger for my primary ignition system.? I also tried to have a reliable back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas Points.? But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul Trapp, who I'm sure some of you know.? He was a real genius with all kinds of engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times).? He mentioned that he had used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he had worked on.? The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other Datsun/Nissan small sedans.? While we were on the phone, he had me get a stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper.? He had the Datsun distributor.? We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two distributors, and they were nearly identical.? The diameter of the shaft that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was required to get the correct height for the Triumph. >From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger.? The only modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height.? An easy conversion.? Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the dual system. When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a spare lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun distributor, and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box.? I used a stock Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time.? Some people us an MSD, etc.? Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in the attached pictures. I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up specifically for me.? So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let me know, and you can have it.? I will even pay the shipping (to the lower 48).? I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. Jack _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/alanb at alanberrydesign.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Nov 5 10:09:45 2019 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 11:09:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Where does one buy twisted pair wire like that? Bob Kramer On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 10:12 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot wrote: > I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I > will have no need in the future. > > By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank > trigger for my primary ignition system. I also tried to have a reliable > back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas > Points. But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the > back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. > > Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul Trapp, > who I'm sure some of you know. He was a real genius with all kinds of > engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times). He mentioned that he had > used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he had > worked on. The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other > Datsun/Nissan small sedans. While we were on the phone, he had me get a > stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper. He had the Datsun > distributor. We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two > distributors, and they were nearly identical. The diameter of the shaft > that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that > shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was > required to get the correct height for the Triumph. > > From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and > the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger. The only > modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, > and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height. An easy > conversion. Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the > dual system. > > When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a spare > lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun distributor, > and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box. I used a stock > Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time. Some people us an MSD, > etc. Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in the > attached pictures. > > I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up > specifically for me. So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let > me know, and you can have it. I will even pay the shipping (to the lower > 48). I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan > distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. > > Jack > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bownes at web9.com Tue Nov 5 11:10:29 2019 From: bownes at web9.com (robert bownes) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 12:10:29 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You buy stranded wire, lay out and cut two pieces, chuck one end up in a hand drill, the other end in a vise and twist it. :) On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 11:19 AM Bob Kramer via Fot wrote: > Where does one buy twisted pair wire like that? > > > Bob Kramer > > > On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 10:12 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot > wrote: > >> I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I >> will have no need in the future. >> >> By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank >> trigger for my primary ignition system. I also tried to have a reliable >> back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas >> Points. But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the >> back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. >> >> Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul Trapp, >> who I'm sure some of you know. He was a real genius with all kinds of >> engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times). He mentioned that he had >> used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he had >> worked on. The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other >> Datsun/Nissan small sedans. While we were on the phone, he had me get a >> stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper. He had the Datsun >> distributor. We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two >> distributors, and they were nearly identical. The diameter of the shaft >> that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that >> shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was >> required to get the correct height for the Triumph. >> >> From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and >> the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger. The only >> modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, >> and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height. An easy >> conversion. Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the >> dual system. >> >> When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a >> spare lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun >> distributor, and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box. I >> used a stock Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time. Some people >> us an MSD, etc. Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in >> the attached pictures. >> >> I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up >> specifically for me. So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let >> me know, and you can have it. I will even pay the shipping (to the lower >> 48). I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan >> distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. >> >> Jack >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rkramer56 at gmail.com Tue Nov 5 11:20:24 2019 From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 12:20:24 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I guess that would do it. But that stuff in Jack's picture looks like it might have some kind of gluing to it based on the cut off end. Bob Kramer On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 12:10 PM robert bownes wrote: > You buy stranded wire, lay out and cut two pieces, chuck one end up in a > hand drill, the other end in a vise and twist it. :) > > > On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 11:19 AM Bob Kramer via Fot > wrote: > >> Where does one buy twisted pair wire like that? >> >> >> Bob Kramer >> >> >> On Tue, Nov 5, 2019 at 10:12 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot >> wrote: >> >>> I've been going through my shop, getting rid of many things for which I >>> will have no need in the future. >>> >>> By the mid-80's, when I was racing the TR-4 in SCCA, I was using a crank >>> trigger for my primary ignition system. I also tried to have a reliable >>> back-up, which up until then had been a stock distributor with Lucas >>> Points. But, of course, I never adjusted the points, so when I needed the >>> back-up one time, the car wouldn't run right on the stock distributor. >>> >>> Shortly after that, I was on the phone one night talking with Paul >>> Trapp, who I'm sure some of you know. He was a real genius with all kinds >>> of engines (also dynoed my TR engine a few times). He mentioned that he >>> had used a Datsun electronic distributor as a backup in some of the cars he >>> had worked on. The model he used came in the B210 and a number of other >>> Datsun/Nissan small sedans. While we were on the phone, he had me get a >>> stock Triumph distributor and a dial caliper. He had the Datsun >>> distributor. We took measurements of the key dimensions of the two >>> distributors, and they were nearly identical. The diameter of the shaft >>> that goes down into the block was exactly the same, and the length of that >>> shaft was very close, such that a thin (about 1/4") shim was all that was >>> required to get the correct height for the Triumph. >>> >>> From then on, I used the Datsun electronic distributor as my backup, and >>> the performance was essentially the same as the crank trigger. The only >>> modification required was to change the drive gear on the end of the shaft, >>> and I had to make up a shim to get the correct height. An easy >>> conversion. Paul drew up a wiring diagram which showed how to wire up the >>> dual system. >>> >>> When I was sorting through some parts the other day, I came across a >>> spare lead that Paul had made up for me, that plugs into the Datsun >>> distributor, and with a few feet of wire to attach to the ignition box. I >>> used a stock Chrysler brain box, which cost $25 at the time. Some people >>> us an MSD, etc. Paul's workmanship was very professional, as indicated in >>> the attached pictures. >>> >>> I hate to throw anything away, especially something that was made up >>> specifically for me. So, if anyone has a use for this connecting wire, let >>> me know, and you can have it. I will even pay the shipping (to the lower >>> 48). I believe it will work for most Datsun/Nissan small sedan >>> distributors produced in the 80's and early 90's, and perhaps more. >>> >>> Jack >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage : >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rkramer56 at gmail.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage : >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 6t9gt6 at toast.net Tue Nov 5 15:47:44 2019 From: 6t9gt6 at toast.net (Stephen Jones) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:47:44 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 In-Reply-To: <060b01d59425$71909820$54b1c860$@harrisonautodynamics.com> References: <4F17362B-53A2-410B-943E-CC756DE02222@me.com> <43fc639e3f974f2183e15d77bc6292dd@toast.net> <060b01d59425$71909820$54b1c860$@harrisonautodynamics.com> Message-ID: <9331267c00b64b0fabb449058ffaf05e@toast.net> I will look in the brief case for n invoice/packingg slip. S. ---------------------------------------- From: "Chris Harrison" Sent: Tuesday, November 5, 2019 5:27 PM To: 6t9gt6 at toast.net, 'Scott Janzen Chris Harrison' Subject: RE: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 Stephen, Scott I have been digging and all the info I have on the springs we are using is in the briefcase with the car I thought I had copies of the notes here but I can't find them I think we are using a long single spring conical profile from comp #26113 It depends a lot what installed length window you have to work with Are you using high ratio rockers? What cam? There are a number of retainers and keepers to help get it together Chris From: Stephen Jones [mailto:6t9gt6 at toast.net] Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2019 12:18 PM To: Scott Janzen Chris Harrison Subject: re: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 Hi Scott. Per your request. I am a new FOT member. My engine builder and Crew Chief is Chris Harrison at Harrison Auto Dynamics in Phoenix (Anthem) Arizona. "Chris Harrison" ; He my be able to make some suggestions. S. ---------------------------------------- From: "Scott Janzen via Fot" Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2019 2:04 PM To: "Friends of Triumph' Triumph" Subject: [Fot] Valve Springs - GT6, Spitfire, Tr6 I'm trying to accommodate a high lift cam/rocker combination and the Isky springs (VWE005/SP116) I've been using will be right at full bind with this combo. What are you all using - I'm looking for something that can handle about 0.54" of net valve lift. Let me know what spring mfr/part number you are using and I'll take it from there. Thanks! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 5 16:11:34 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:11:34 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away In-Reply-To: References: <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2125914949.1602355.1572968725006@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You don?t usually see it without the outer jacket, but I found some at Mouser: https://tinyurl.com/y6fzynqs Likely the other big electronic supply houses (eg Allied, Newark, etc) would have something too, but I only checked Mouser. -- Randall From: Bob Kramer via Fot Sent: Tuesday, November 5, 2019 11:09 AM To: Jack Wheeler Cc: FOT List Subject: Re: [Fot] Cleaning Out My Shop - Give Away Where does one buy twisted pair wire like that?? Bob Kramer -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at linneyweb.com Tue Nov 5 18:32:06 2019 From: john at linneyweb.com (John Linney) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 17:32:06 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Classic Motor Films Message-ID: I hope you are enjoying my films - I really enjoy making them. I have a huge favor to ask. Please go to my YouTube channel and hit the Subscribe button. You'll then be the first to know as I publish new projects, and it will help me do more of them in the long run too. Thank you all! Click on this link below? https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxfTA8e4ywKA0FjTIsALy-g -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: PastedGraphic-3.tiff Type: image/tiff Size: 1517484 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ronmscott1140 at gmail.com Mon Nov 4 19:28:58 2019 From: ronmscott1140 at gmail.com (Ronald Scott) Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:28:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Kastner 2020 Message-ID: Marty, I will be driving the S&S #28 73 TR6 which Brian Schirano and I co-own Ron Scott -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From don at dcphotos.com Tue Nov 5 09:38:43 2019 From: don at dcphotos.com (don at dcphotos.com) Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 10:38:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] head gasket/block question Message-ID: Amici, I?m just back from a great weekend racing Eagles Canyon with CVAR. Car ran well all weekend till final race and the head gasket blew. On the Spitfire blocks are two holes by #1 and #4 I?ve been told they were use at the foundry and they should be filled in. My question is, other than to facilitate the blowing of head gaskets, why does the head gasket have a hole for them in the first place? Thanks, Don From bschirano1 at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 09:36:24 2019 From: bschirano1 at gmail.com (Brian Schirano) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 11:36:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations Message-ID: Hi All I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) Some of you know one or more of these guys. Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. There you go Cheers Brian #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jsukey at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 09:42:29 2019 From: jsukey at gmail.com (Jason Sukey) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 11:42:29 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Second to all! These are our type of people! Jason Sukey On Wed, Nov 6, 2019, 11:37 AM Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby > nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron > will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually > runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and > crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe > Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to > lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Wed Nov 6 10:31:43 2019 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 11:31:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3A5B815F-08F1-40A5-9836-0477DB5C6DF7@att.net> Second and Welcome! Paul > On Nov 6, 2019, at 10:36 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com ) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com ) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com ) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Wed Nov 6 10:31:43 2019 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 11:31:43 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3A5B815F-08F1-40A5-9836-0477DB5C6DF7@att.net> Second and Welcome! Paul > On Nov 6, 2019, at 10:36 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com ) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com ) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com ) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 11:39:48 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 12:39:48 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <66117BDD-3D4E-401D-A3C0-D0902B27BD83@gmail.com> Yes! To all three. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Nov 6, 2019, at 10:37 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dbm.spitfire at gmail.com Wed Nov 6 11:42:02 2019 From: dbm.spitfire at gmail.com (Doug Mitchell) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 13:42:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Second on all three. On Wed, Nov 6, 2019, 11:37 AM Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby > nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron > will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually > runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and > crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe > Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to > lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dbm.spitfire at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Wed Nov 6 14:33:42 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 21:33:42 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1530786059.403764.1573076022036@mail.yahoo.com> Second on all counts - WELCOME. Regards,Bob Lang p.s. Hi Art! On Wednesday, November 6, 2019, 11:37:09 AM EST, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: Hi All I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com)Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com)Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) Some of you know one or more of these guys.?Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per yearArt is a true Triumphvirate, former?racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. There you go CheersBrian#26 Blue/White 69 GT6 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Wed Nov 6 11:10:43 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 13:10:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sounds To me like all 3 deserve seconds! Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 6, 2019, at 11:37 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Wed Nov 6 11:10:43 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 13:10:43 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sounds To me like all 3 deserve seconds! Phil Gott Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 6, 2019, at 11:37 AM, Brian Schirano via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi All > > I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: > > Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) > Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) > Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) > > Some of you know one or more of these guys. > Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 > My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year > Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. > > There you go > > Cheers > Brian > #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Nov 7 07:00:01 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 14:00:01 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Nominations In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Second, second and second. Welcome to the group. Marty ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of Brian Schirano via Fot Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 11:36 AM To: FOT Cc: Art Lipp ; Ronald Scott ; Aaron Schirano Subject: [Fot] Nominations Hi All I have three Triumph affectionados who really should be in FOT hereby nominating: Ron Scott (ronmscott1140 at gmail.com) Aaron Schirano (ASchirano at gmail.com) Art Lipp (lipp04 at yahoo.com) Some of you know one or more of these guys. Ron and I co-own the yellow #28 TR6, my son Aaron runs once per year. Ron will run it at the Kastner Cup 2020 My son Aaron helps on both the TR and my GT and then as I said, usually runs the TR once per year Art is a true Triumphvirate, former racer, now Triumph restorer and crewman for Ron or I this track or that. Actually, Art pointed me to Joe Alexander a few years ago when I needed advice on locating someone to lighten a flywheel and I think it was Joe who nominated me. There you go Cheers Brian #26 Blue/White 69 GT6 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 15:25:34 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 22:25:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] rain tires References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. ?For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott114 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Nov 7 15:38:58 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 22:38:58 +0000 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Snow Race April 2019.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 166229 bytes Desc: Snow Race April 2019.jpg URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 16:10:59 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 23:10:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> Wow! Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. ?Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! ?After that, everyone had to have them! Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Barr, Scott To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires #yiv3865640528 #yiv3865640528 -- _filtered #yiv3865640528 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv3865640528 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv3865640528 {panose-1:2 11 5 2 2 2 2 2 2 4;} #yiv3865640528 #yiv3865640528 p.yiv3865640528MsoNormal, #yiv3865640528 li.yiv3865640528MsoNormal, #yiv3865640528 div.yiv3865640528MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;} #yiv3865640528 a:link, #yiv3865640528 span.yiv3865640528MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv3865640528 a:visited, #yiv3865640528 span.yiv3865640528MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv3865640528 p.yiv3865640528msonormal0, #yiv3865640528 li.yiv3865640528msonormal0, #yiv3865640528 div.yiv3865640528msonormal0 {margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;} #yiv3865640528 span.yiv3865640528EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #yiv3865640528 .yiv3865640528MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered #yiv3865640528 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #yiv3865640528 div.yiv3865640528WordSection1 {} #yiv3865640528 I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it).?? Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. ? The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them.? Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. ? Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow.? See photo attached.? ? From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires ? What's the best rain tire? ? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? ? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. ?For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs ? Your thoughts/experience, please! ? Phil Gott 114 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rocky at spitfire4.com Thu Nov 7 16:38:33 2019 From: rocky at spitfire4.com (Rocky Entriken) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 17:38:33 -0600 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Last I talked to the Hoosier guy, few years back, they were still making the DirtStocker for the HP cars (Spitfire, etc) but not for the ones on larger wheels. Wore ?em for my last race, 2011 Runoffs, Road America, gained 9 places in the wet. --Rocky From: vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10 PM To: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires Wow! Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Barr, Scott To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: wlEmoticon-smile[1].png Type: image/png Size: 1046 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 17:19:50 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 19:19:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0575C127-CE0A-481D-B877-5CE74556E4DA@aol.com> There is a Hoosier ?Full wet? for Spec Miata that would fit..... Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2019, at 6:38 PM, Rocky Entriken wrote: > > ? > Last I talked to the Hoosier guy, few years back, they were still making the DirtStocker for the HP cars (Spitfire, etc) but not for the ones on larger wheels. > > Wore ?em for my last race, 2011 Runoffs, Road America, gained 9 places in the wet. > > > --Rocky > > From: vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10 PM > To: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com ; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires > > Wow! > > Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! > > I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! > > Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Barr, Scott > To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm > Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires > > I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. > > The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. > > Scott (B.) > PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. > > From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] rain tires > > What's the best rain tire? > > I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? > > I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs > > Your thoughts/experience, please! > > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 17:19:50 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 19:19:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0575C127-CE0A-481D-B877-5CE74556E4DA@aol.com> There is a Hoosier ?Full wet? for Spec Miata that would fit..... Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2019, at 6:38 PM, Rocky Entriken wrote: > > ? > Last I talked to the Hoosier guy, few years back, they were still making the DirtStocker for the HP cars (Spitfire, etc) but not for the ones on larger wheels. > > Wore ?em for my last race, 2011 Runoffs, Road America, gained 9 places in the wet. > > > --Rocky > > From: vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10 PM > To: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com ; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires > > Wow! > > Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! > > I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! > > Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. > > Phil > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Barr, Scott > To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm > Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires > > I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. > > The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. > > Scott (B.) > PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. > > From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot > Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM > To: fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [Fot] rain tires > > What's the best rain tire? > > I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? > > I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs > > Your thoughts/experience, please! > > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Thu Nov 7 17:45:45 2019 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 00:45:45 +0000 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me Sent from my iPhone On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot wrote: ? What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Nov 7 18:23:51 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 01:23:51 +0000 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> , <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: These Hoosier rains worked pretty well in the snow, actually. Not bad. Scott Barr McCarty Law LLP (920) 257-2233 ________________________________ From: vfracing at aol.com Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10:59 PM To: Barr, Scott ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires Wow! Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Barr, Scott To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Thu Nov 7 18:24:44 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 01:24:44 +0000 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> <760576293.794989.1573168259907@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: Loved 'em. I still have an aging set. Scott Barr McCarty Law LLP (920) 257-2233 ________________________________ From: Rocky Entriken Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:38:33 PM To: vfracing at aol.com ; Barr, Scott ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires Last I talked to the Hoosier guy, few years back, they were still making the DirtStocker for the HP cars (Spitfire, etc) but not for the ones on larger wheels. Wore ?em for my last race, 2011 Runoffs, Road America, gained 9 places in the wet. [Smile] --Rocky From: vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 7, 2019 5:10 PM To: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] rain tires Wow! Looks like you needed a set of snow tires! I remember well the Hoosier Dirt Stockers. Chuck Noonan set a track record in the rain at the old Bryar track using those! After that, everyone had to have them! Thanks for the tip about looking beyond our traditional tire sources. Phil -----Original Message----- From: Barr, Scott To: vfracing at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Nov 7, 2019 5:39 pm Subject: RE: [Fot] rain tires I?m loving the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford rains and will be getting four of the fronts (185/60-13) for the GT6 racer (assuming the world is still turning by the time I finish it). Those are 13?, but your Hoosier dealer should be able to tell you which tire is similar in 15?. The hot tire at one time was the Hoosier Dirt Stockers, but I don?t think they?re the same anymore ? or you can?t get them. Not sure you could ever get those in 15?, but they were great in 13? on the Spit racer. Scott (B.) PS, the Hoosier Spec Racer Ford tires also work well in the snow. See photo attached. From: Fot On Behalf Of vfracing--- via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2019 4:26 PM To: fot at autox.team.net Subject: [Fot] rain tires What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott 114 TR4A ________________________________ _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rocky at spitfire4.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: wlEmoticon-smile[1].png Type: image/png Size: 1046 bytes Desc: wlEmoticon-smile[1].png URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 18:53:37 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 20:53:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <603D94A1-8FEE-46D7-89EB-7C3000C99FC8@aol.com> Yes, John; the series I normally run (Historic Race Group) allows up to 8 inches, but the 7s fit better given my flares. As we can prepare up to the ?83 rules, SVRA often puts us in the ?N.C.? or Non Conforming category. That way they get their entry fee and we can play, but we don?t take points away from cars that meet SVRA rules. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2019, at 7:45 PM, John H. Hasty wrote: > > ? Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> What's the best rain tire? >> >> I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? >> >> I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs >> >> Your thoughts/experience, please! >> >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Thu Nov 7 18:53:37 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 20:53:37 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <603D94A1-8FEE-46D7-89EB-7C3000C99FC8@aol.com> Yes, John; the series I normally run (Historic Race Group) allows up to 8 inches, but the 7s fit better given my flares. As we can prepare up to the ?83 rules, SVRA often puts us in the ?N.C.? or Non Conforming category. That way they get their entry fee and we can play, but we don?t take points away from cars that meet SVRA rules. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 7, 2019, at 7:45 PM, John H. Hasty wrote: > > ? Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me > > Sent from my iPhone > >>> On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> What's the best rain tire? >> >> I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? >> >> I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs >> >> Your thoughts/experience, please! >> >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Thu Nov 7 19:17:14 2019 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 02:17:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: <603D94A1-8FEE-46D7-89EB-7C3000C99FC8@aol.com> References: <603D94A1-8FEE-46D7-89EB-7C3000C99FC8@aol.com> Message-ID: <1842374684.816484.1573179434228@mail.yahoo.com> The Hoosier H2O tire I believe is DOT approved, and I think would be the best choice. ?Similar to the Spec Miata wet that was mentioned. ? Here?s a link:https://m.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Hoosier&tireModel=Radial+Wet+H2O? Talk to you soon!Dave Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Thursday, November 7, 2019, 8:53 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Yes, John; the series I normally run (Historic Race Group) allows up to 8 inches, but the 7s fit better given my flares.As we can prepare up to the ?83 rules, SVRA often puts us in the ?N.C.? or Non Conforming category. ?That way they get their entry fee and we can play, but we don?t take points away from cars that meet SVRA rules.Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 7, 2019, at 7:45 PM, John H. Hasty wrote: ? Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me Sent from my iPhone On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot wrote: ?What's the best rain tire? I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure rain tires, or something in between? I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. ?For dry I am using Hoosier TDRs Your thoughts/experience, please! Phil Gott114 TR4A_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Fri Nov 8 05:01:58 2019 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 07:01:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] rain tires In-Reply-To: References: <1231192056.791741.1573165534467@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: There's really no equity in vintage racing rules among clubs. That's why it's just for fun. Right??? On Thu, Nov 7, 2019 at 7:45 PM John H. Hasty via Fot wrote: > Wow, 7? rims, 1? more than SVRA allows, sorry no experience from me > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 7, 2019, at 5:26 PM, vfracing--- via Fot > wrote: > > ? > What's the best rain tire? > > I'm bewildered by the choices of R compound treaded street tires, pure > rain tires, or something in between? > > I run a '65 TR4A built to '76 GCR rules with 7 inch rims. For dry I am > using Hoosier TDRs > > Your thoughts/experience, please! > > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sat Nov 9 13:15:37 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 14:15:37 -0600 Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. Message-ID: <7C6C012F-89D5-42F0-9153-7CD77494607D@gmail.com> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 From billdentin at aol.com Sat Nov 9 13:40:27 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 20:40:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. References: <6481885.1853801.1573332027460.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6481885.1853801.1573332027460@mail.yahoo.com> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, November 9, 2019,?Joe Alexander via Fot??wrote: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell:? 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sat Nov 9 13:42:31 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 20:42:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. References: <384477868.1815855.1573332151400.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <384477868.1815855.1573332151400@mail.yahoo.com> Holy Balls (Religious Ornaments)! Bill Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, November 9, 2019,?Joe Alexander via Fot??wrote: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell:? 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Sat Nov 9 13:53:06 2019 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 15:53:06 -0500 Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. In-Reply-To: <384477868.1815855.1573332151400@mail.yahoo.com> References: <384477868.1815855.1573332151400.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <384477868.1815855.1573332151400@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Do they come in Brass? Extra Large? mike h On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 3:42 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > Holy Balls (Religious Ornaments)! > > Bill > > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com > > On Saturday, November 9, 2019, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: > > > > http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 > > > Joe Alexander > 4505 Donald Dr > Cedar Falls, IA 50613 > The-vintage-racer.com > Gasketinnovations.com > Cell: 319.464.4711 > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Sat Nov 9 13:58:45 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 14:58:45 -0600 Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <64E38C36-7DB0-4AF0-A939-47E6F0A413A3@gmail.com> Nope. Thanks for asking. Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Nov 9, 2019, at 2:53 PM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > ? > Do they come in Brass? > Extra Large? > > mike h > >> On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 3:42 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: >> Holy Balls (Religious Ornaments)! >> >> Bill >> >> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail >> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com >> >> On Saturday, November 9, 2019, Joe Alexander via Fot wrote: >> >> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 >> >> >> Joe Alexander >> 4505 Donald Dr >> Cedar Falls, IA 50613 >> The-vintage-racer.com >> Gasketinnovations.com >> Cell: 319.464.4711 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mleccese1 at verizon.net Sat Nov 9 14:06:31 2019 From: mleccese1 at verizon.net (mleccese1 at verizon.net) Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 21:06:31 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] New Production. TR4-TR6 Shift Knobs In Billet. References: <1162335979.1866949.1573333591180.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1162335979.1866949.1573333591180@mail.yahoo.com> Should you buy two? On Saturday, November 9, 2019 Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: Do they come in Brass?Extra Large? mike h On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 3:42 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Holy Balls (Religious Ornaments)! Bill Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, November 9, 2019,?Joe Alexander via Fot??wrote: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=174091222052&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111 Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell:? 319.464.4711 _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/mleccese1 at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Nov 10 13:35:04 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 20:35:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] 2020 KASTNER CUP @ MID-OHIO References: <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... For the Good of the Order, I thought it would be wise to mention some things about the area around MID-OHIO.? It? may be rural, but don't be fooled.? Not unlike Los Angeles and New York rural Ohio has Street Gangs too. ? Currently the most active are the SBFs (or Sun Burnt Farmboys) and their nemesis, the Chinstraps (the Amish Gangstas).? Visitors should be alert that it is not uncommon to see either or both cruising slowly by and throwing Gang signals.? The SBFs have their weird, rolling, three finger wave, and the Chinstraps are always tipping their hats. Lately, authorities think there is trouble brewing, as an SBF spit chew from his whip (a 1964 John Deere) directly onto a pile of horsey poo from a Gangsta's buggy. Now there is even talk of a turf war, just down the highway (over by the sod farm.) Better safe than sorry.? Stay alert when you are in the area. Bill Dentinger -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stutztr4 at gmail.com Sun Nov 10 19:20:25 2019 From: stutztr4 at gmail.com (Bruce Stutzman) Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 21:20:25 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 2020 KASTNER CUP @ MID-OHIO In-Reply-To: <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2124110376.2070503.1573418104052@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: So be careful how you dress so you are not mistaken as a gang member. Don't wear bib overalls or don't wear dark blue pants, a light blue shirt with the sleeves rolled up and a straw hat. Bruce On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 3:35 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > Amici... > > For the Good of the Order, I thought it would be wise to mention some > things about the area around MID-OHIO. It may be rural, but don't be > fooled. Not unlike Los Angeles and New York rural Ohio has Street Gangs > too. > > Currently the most active are the SBFs (or Sun Burnt Farmboys) and their > nemesis, the Chinstraps (the Amish Gangstas). Visitors should be alert > that it is not uncommon to see either or both cruising slowly by and > throwing Gang signals. The SBFs have their weird, rolling, three finger > wave, and the Chinstraps are always tipping their hats. > > Lately, authorities think there is trouble brewing, as an SBF spit chew > from his whip (a 1964 John Deere) directly onto a pile of horsey poo from a > Gangsta's buggy. > > Now there is even talk of a turf war, just down the highway (over by the > sod farm.) > > Better safe than sorry. Stay alert when you are in the area. > > Bill Dentinger > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutztr4 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From horizonracing at msn.com Mon Nov 11 12:17:50 2019 From: horizonracing at msn.com (Tony and Annie Garmey) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 19:17:50 +0000 Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale Message-ID: Hi all :-) ? Super HEAVY duty? Dyna 44 that was removed from a Running TR 4 . I believe this was built/ Made by Southwick machine . 3:7 CWP Posi traction 7/16 wheel studs Complete with backing plates / drive shaft / axles . $1100 obo + shipping I can organize the freight if need be. **would recommend an inspection before install** ( change seals/ gaskets) -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7744.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1023478 bytes Desc: IMG_7744.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00001.txt URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_7742.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 796478 bytes Desc: IMG_7742.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00002.txt URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: IMG_7738.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 960972 bytes Desc: IMG_7738.JPG URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: ATT00006.txt URL: From billdentin at aol.com Mon Nov 11 14:01:13 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 21:01:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <714049477.2526142.1573506073210@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... Back when I was racing, we had three or four fully prepared axles on the shelf.? One was for Street Races (we did St. Pete's, Grand Rapids (twice), and Minneapolis (twice), one for tight tracks like Blackhawk, and one for tracks like Road America and Watkins Glen.? Our mechanic, Kevin Potter, was really good and swapping axles, but then he was really good at everything. Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Tony and Annie Garmey via Fot To: fot at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Nov 11, 2019 12:44 pm Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale Hi all :-) ? Super HEAVY duty? Dyna 44 that was removed from a Running TR 4 . I believe this was built/ Made by Southwick machine . 3:7 CWP Posi traction 7/16 wheel studs Complete with backing plates / drive shaft / axles . $1100 obo + shipping I can? organize the freight if need be. **would recommend an inspection before install** ( change seals/ gaskets) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stutztr4 at gmail.com Mon Nov 11 15:32:59 2019 From: stutztr4 at gmail.com (Bruce Stutzman) Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 17:32:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale In-Reply-To: <714049477.2526142.1573506073210@mail.yahoo.com> References: <714049477.2526142.1573506073210@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The Dana 44 was the stock diff in the Sunbeam Tiger. On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 4:01 PM Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: > Amici... > > Back when I was racing, we had three or four fully prepared axles on the > shelf. One was for Street Races (we did St. Pete's, Grand Rapids (twice), > and Minneapolis (twice), one for tight tracks like Blackhawk, and one for > tracks like Road America and Watkins Glen. Our mechanic, Kevin Potter, was > really good and swapping axles, but then he was really good at everything. > > Bill Dentinger > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tony and Annie Garmey via Fot > To: fot at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, Nov 11, 2019 12:44 pm > Subject: [Fot] TR4 rear axle unit For sale > > Hi all :-) > > ? Super HEAVY duty? Dyna 44 that was removed from a Running TR 4 . > I believe this was built/ Made by Southwick machine . > 3:7 CWP > Posi traction > 7/16 wheel studs > Complete with backing plates / drive shaft / axles . > > $1100 obo + shipping > I can organize the freight if need be. > > **would recommend an inspection before install** ( change seals/ gaskets) > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/stutztr4 at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Tue Nov 12 13:46:47 2019 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 14:46:47 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Triumph 2000 Message-ID: A M I C I Does anyone know of a 60's era Triumph 2000 for sale? Thanks Dennis -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4abrad at gmail.com Tue Nov 12 22:45:26 2019 From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells) Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 21:45:26 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Triumph 2000 In-Reply-To: <20191112204720.89FAEA06BF@autox.team.net> References: <20191112204720.89FAEA06BF@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I hear the one built for Paul Newman can be had for somewhere near $250K... Brad Eells Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 12, 2019, at 12:47 PM, Dennis DeLap via Fot wrote: > > ? > A M I C I > Does anyone know of a 60's era Triumph 2000 for sale? > Thanks > Dennis > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From toodamnfunky at comcast.net Wed Nov 13 08:59:52 2019 From: toodamnfunky at comcast.net (JAMES GRAY) Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 08:59:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Fot] Fot member dropped off list Message-ID: <1551144113.132350.1573660792989@connect.xfinity.com> Mark, Would you please reinstate Jeff Hall to the list, he was dropped off somehow. Jeff is one of our ( RMVR) GT-6 drivers. jeffwhall at aol.com mailto:jeffwhall at aol.com Thanks, Jim Gray -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Wed Nov 13 18:56:34 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] AUTOWEEK References: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com> Amici... AUTOWEEK...RIP! ?The last issued arrived today. Not a big surprise, as print?Magazines and Newspapers?are having great difficulty surviving. My own subscription to AUTOWEEK?does not expire until December 2020. ?I have no hard feelings however. ?Last time I renewed extended subscription rates were dirt cheap as they scrambled to generate cash. The handwriting was on the wall. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rjl at gt-classics.com Thu Nov 14 06:29:19 2019 From: rjl at gt-classics.com (=?UTF-8?B?Ui4gSm9obiBMeWU=?=) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 08:29:19 -0500 Subject: [Fot] AUTOWEEK In-Reply-To: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1573738159.u65d1elbsaok8o4g@webmail.lumos.net> Wow, that is sad.  I received the new issue, but have not had time to read it.  I have several years left on my subscription, oh well.  This is not the first magazine that I really enjoyed that has gone belly up, but this is the one that I have been reading the longest, I believe. John   On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC), Bill Dentinger via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote: Amici...   AUTOWEEK...RIP!  The last issued arrived today.   Not a big surprise, as print Magazines and Newspapers are having great difficulty surviving. My own subscription to AUTOWEEK does not expire until December 2020.  I have no hard feelings however.  Last time I renewed extended subscription rates were dirt cheap as they scrambled to generate cash.   The handwriting was on the wall.   Bill Dentinger   Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com   -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From LawrenceRoss at allstate.com Thu Nov 14 07:09:49 2019 From: LawrenceRoss at allstate.com (Ross, Lawrence) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 14:09:49 +0000 Subject: [Fot] AUTOWEEK In-Reply-To: <1573738159.u65d1elbsaok8o4g@webmail.lumos.net> References: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com>, <1573738159.u65d1elbsaok8o4g@webmail.lumos.net> Message-ID: My "last issue" arrived last week. My subscription is paid until 2021. Since Hearst also owns Rod & Track plus Car & Driver, it will be what options well be offered. Of course, I'm still waiting for my refund from Hemming's Sports & Exotics. Larry Lawrence Ross Agency 67 Old Clairton Rd. Pittsburgh, PA. 15236 (412) 655-9990 - office (412) 780-8495 - cell ________________________________ From: Fot on behalf of R. John Lye via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2019 8:29 AM To: billdentin at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: [External] Re: [Fot] AUTOWEEK Wow, that is sad. I received the new issue, but have not had time to read it. I have several years left on my subscription, oh well. This is not the first magazine that I really enjoyed that has gone belly up, but this is the one that I have been reading the longest, I believe. John On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC), Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Amici... AUTOWEEK...RIP! The last issued arrived today. Not a big surprise, as print Magazines and Newspapers are having great difficulty surviving. My own subscription to AUTOWEEK does not expire until December 2020. I have no hard feelings however. Last time I renewed extended subscription rates were dirt cheap as they scrambled to generate cash. The handwriting was on the wall. Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kkjjk at aol.com Thu Nov 14 07:29:59 2019 From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 14:29:59 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] AUTOWEEK In-Reply-To: References: <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1261801199.3681589.1573696594738@mail.yahoo.com> <1573738159.u65d1elbsaok8o4g@webmail.lumos.net> Message-ID: <1311402714.823929.1573741799919@mail.yahoo.com> I just got my last issue as well.? Really was one of my favorite mags, and I recently renewed also.? Not as bad timing as FINALLY subscribing to Spitfire and GT6 magazine, sending in my check, with the mag folding probably the day after Shawn got the check.? No offense, Shawn!? You photography and coverage makes up for it!-- Jay De Pol -----Original Message----- From: Ross, Lawrence via Fot To: billdentin at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net ; rjl at gt-classics.com Sent: Thu, Nov 14, 2019 9:11 am Subject: Re: [Fot] AUTOWEEK #yiv3305655251 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} My "last issue" arrived last week. My subscription is paid until 2021. Since Hearst also owns Rod & Track plus Car & Driver, it will be what options well be offered. Of course, I'm still waiting for my refund from Hemming's Sports & Exotics. Larry Lawrence Ross Agency67 Old Clairton Rd.Pittsburgh, PA. 15236(412) 655-9990 - office(412) 780-8495 - cell From: Fot on behalf of R. John Lye via Fot Sent: Thursday, November 14, 2019 8:29 AM To: billdentin at aol.com ; fot at autox.team.net Subject: [External] Re: [Fot] AUTOWEEK?Wow, that is sad.? I received the new issue, but have not had time to read it.? I have several years left on my subscription, oh well.? This is not the first magazine that I really enjoyed that has gone belly up, but this is the one that I have been reading the longest, I believe. John ? On Thu, 14 Nov 2019 01:56:34 +0000 (UTC), Bill Dentinger via Fot wrote: Amici...?AUTOWEEK...RIP! ?The last issued arrived today.?Not a big surprise, as print?Magazines and Newspapers?are having great difficulty surviving. My own subscription to AUTOWEEK?does not expire until December 2020. ?I have no hard feelings however. ?Last time I renewed extended subscription rates were dirt cheap as they scrambled to generate cash.?The handwriting was on the wall.?Bill Dentinger ?Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl at gt-classics.com ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kkjjk at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dennis at motorsportranch.com Thu Nov 14 15:17:59 2019 From: dennis at motorsportranch.com (Dennis) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 16:17:59 -0600 Subject: [Fot] GT6 for sale Message-ID: 1978 GT6 roller for sale. Car was last driven in 1968. Original wire wheels. Resto-mod restoration 50% complete. Please call or txt for more info. Dennis Walje 817-915-0812 Sent from my iPhone From spiwakd at aol.com Thu Nov 14 15:21:27 2019 From: spiwakd at aol.com (spiwakd at aol.com) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 22:21:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] For Sale References: <415366591.455392.1573770087214.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <415366591.455392.1573770087214@mail.yahoo.com> Long list of racing parts and driver's gear for sale also a complete new full-race engine for TR3-4 with all machine work done needing final assembly. Contact me off-list for?complete list?spiwakd at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dennis at motorsportranch.com Thu Nov 14 15:22:08 2019 From: dennis at motorsportranch.com (Dennis) Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 16:22:08 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: GT6 for sale References: Message-ID: Sent from my iPhone Begin forwarded message: > From: Dennis > Date: November 14, 2019 at 4:20:52 PM CST > To: Dennis > Subject: Re: [Fot] GT6 for sale > > Sorry. Got dates switched. The Gt6 is a 1968 > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Nov 14, 2019, at 4:17 PM, Dennis via Fot wrote: >> >> 1978 GT6 roller for sale. Car was last driven in 1968. Original wire wheels. Resto-mod restoration 50% complete. Please call or txt for more info. >> >> Dennis Walje >> 817-915-0812 >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dennis at motorsportranch.com >> >> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ofracer at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 11:00:13 2019 From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 13:00:13 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Host hotel for the K Cup? Message-ID: Hi folks, a non racing Triumph friend is planning on attending the K cup and wants to know if there will be a hotel associated with the event. thanks mike h -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From joealexandervintage at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 11:04:13 2019 From: joealexandervintage at gmail.com (Joe Alexander) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 12:04:13 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Host hotel for the K Cup? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4007DC31-9FD4-44AA-A4DB-70E83D08911A@gmail.com> Mike & FOT There is no official Host Hotel. Kas is likely to be domiciled at the Hampton Inn. Regards, Joe Alexander 4505 Donald Dr Cedar Falls, IA 50613 The-vintage-racer.com Gasketinnovations.com Cell: 319.464.4711 > On Nov 15, 2019, at 12:00 PM, Mike Harmuth via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi folks, a non racing Triumph friend is planning on attending the K cup and wants to know if there will be a hotel associated with the event. > > thanks > mike h > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/joealexandervintage at gmail.com > > From chrispanayotti at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 06:14:26 2019 From: chrispanayotti at gmail.com (chris panayotti) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 08:14:26 -0500 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 Message-ID: Hi all, I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. If you need any more info about my setup please ask Thank you Chris Panayotti -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Fri Nov 15 17:55:08 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 17:55:08 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <69cd138a-7439-a3fb-0991-8dba4c123094@bradakis.com> In general I don't send messages from non-members on to the list, but this seems like a legitimate, well founded request for assistance.? Perhaps some of you can assist Chris on this matter. mjb. On 11/15/19 6:14 AM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like > from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing > this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a > Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am > trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would > be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is > accleration off idle.? It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture > screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that > point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine > if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a > point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but > with any load at all it bogs and dies.? I've come to the conclusion my > progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of > which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and > verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect > At .010".? I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am > running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does > work and brings it up to 24ish deg.? It is a stock points distributor > by the way.? I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade > that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked > compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to > get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list > but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the > distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm > fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti From sjanzen at me.com Fri Nov 15 18:44:41 2019 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 20:44:41 -0500 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> More information is needed. I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? What size chokes are you running? Main jets, idle jets? Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > From chasgee22 at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 18:51:43 2019 From: chasgee22 at gmail.com (Chuck Gee) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 17:51:43 -0800 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> References: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> Message-ID: Are the bowl vents clear? Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 15, 2019, at 5:44 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot wrote: > > ? > More information is needed. > I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? > What size chokes are you running? > Main jets, idle jets? > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: >> >> ? >> Hi all, >> >> I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. >> >> So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. >> >> I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. >> >> Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. >> >> If you need any more info about my setup please ask >> >> Thank you >> Chris Panayotti >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com > > From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Fri Nov 15 21:34:46 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 04:34:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1160805473.699802.1573878886978@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - Sounds like you have a vacuum leak. I'd put a vacuum gauge on the setup and tune your idle using that. If you're running a stock cam, you should be able to pull more than 15 inches of vacuum, so try advancing the ignition timing and balancing off the idle screws (not the mixture, the idle screw) to get you idle down and still pull the vacuum. If that doesn't help, double check your float levels - if the float level is wrong you won't be able to get the carbs to work right. Note that the idle jets do just about nothing after the throttle is off the stop - after that you're on the mains. Sounds simple, but like nobody seems to get that. 50F11 should be more than adequate idle jets. Regarding the distributor - the timing needs to be ROCK SOLID. If it bounces at all or if there are skips, you need to fix that first. You can't tune bad ignition with the carbs. :-) Regarding timing, I've set up plenty of cars with 15 BTDC at idle. The trick is to get about 32 or 33 degrees total advance at 3000 or 3500. How you get there depends on how much mechanical advance your distributor makes - if you have Lucas, there are several different numbers available. Feel free to ping me off list. Regards,Bob Lang On Friday, November 15, 2019, 7:52:12 PM EST, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: Hi all,? I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle.? It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies.? I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010".? I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg.? It is a stock points distributor by the way.? I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. If you need any more info about my setup please ask Thank youChris Panayotti_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 21:49:22 2019 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 21:49:22 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: <1160805473.699802.1573878886978@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1160805473.699802.1573878886978@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have a web page focused on DCOEs for the TR3 & 4 engine. While the jet suggestions are not applicable, a lot of the material covers how each part of a DCOE works and how all the parts work together. So if you could use a carb primer to help you trouble shoot your problem, http://www.tr3a.info/WeberDCOEinfo.htm TeriAnn From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Nov 16 00:40:00 2019 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 00:40:00 -0700 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Chris, The mixture screws should be out 1 turn from lightly seated. You might be a little lean on the idle jet if it needs that extra 1/4 turn. It doesn?t take much too make a difference with the mixture screw. If the speed screw is more than 1/2 turn out from lightly touching the lever it may indicate a lean idle jet too. If the speed screw is turned much more than that you could be getting into the progression holes instead of the idle jet alone. The progression holes are there to make a smooth transition from the idle jet circuit to the main jet circuit. If you?re into the progression holes to make it idle correctly then it?s another indication that the idle jet is too lean as their function is to add gas to the mix. As far as the bog on acceleration, pull the pump jets and see what size is in there. You may need to go smaller to decrease the volume and duration of the squirt of gas when accelerating. I had a bogging down problem upon acceleration and going from a 55 to a 40 pump jet solved that problem. I now run both the pump jet and the spill jet (exhaust jet) with size 40 jets. Check the pump jets first, as it?s the easiest thing to do, then maybe look at a richer idle jet if that doesn?t help. You may have two things going on here, 1) the acceleration issue (the pump jets), and 2) the adjustments needed to the mixture and speed screws (the idle jet). Good luck. It will be great once you get them right. Bud > On Nov 15, 2019, at 6:14 AM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sat Nov 16 03:41:51 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 11:41:51 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1356606085.208714594.1573900911103.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Chris, you do not mention a lambda sensor and/or other equipment to read the exhaust gases. Tuning Webers for a street car is more complex than for racing. The idle jet has, apart from the fuel hole at the bottom, also an air bleed hole on the side of the jet. The combination of this 2 holes is determining the fuel/air mixture delivered at the progression holes. 1.5 turns from the seats for the idle screw is pointing to a lean fuel/air mixture delivered to the progression holes by the idle jets. The acceleration jets should deliver a strong jet of fuel : as far as about 1/2 or 1 meter (when the carbs are not mounted). If you don't see this, maybe the accelerator intake/discharge valves(not the accelerator pump jets) are not in place in the bottom of the fuel chambers! Marcel ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- Van: "fot" Aan: "chris panayotti" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 16 november 2019 08:40:00 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 Hi Chris, The mixture screws should be out 1 turn from lightly seated. You might be a little lean on the idle jet if it needs that extra 1/4 turn. It doesn?t take much too make a difference with the mixture screw. If the speed screw is more than 1/2 turn out from lightly touching the lever it may indicate a lean idle jet too. If the speed screw is turned much more than that you could be getting into the progression holes instead of the idle jet alone. The progression holes are there to make a smooth transition from the idle jet circuit to the main jet circuit. If you?re into the progression holes to make it idle correctly then it?s another indication that the idle jet is too lean as their function is to add gas to the mix. As far as the bog on acceleration, pull the pump jets and see what size is in there. You may need to go smaller to decrease the volume and duration of the squirt of gas when accelerating. I had a bogging down problem upon acceleration and going from a 55 to a 40 pump jet solved that problem. I now run both the pump jet and the spill jet (exhaust jet) with size 40 jets. Check the pump jets first, as it?s the easiest thing to do, then maybe look at a richer idle jet if that doesn?t help. You may have two things going on here, 1) the acceleration issue (the pump jets), and 2) the adjustments needed to the mixture and speed screws (the idle jet). Good luck. It will be great once you get them right. Bud > On Nov 15, 2019, at 6:14 AM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/levilevi at comcast.net > > Bud Rolofson Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut) 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car) 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Sat Nov 16 11:05:53 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 10:05:53 -0800 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Settings I have used: Main 120 Emulsion f16 Air 190 Idle f9/45 Pump 45 Choke 30 This is on a bone stock TVR w 6 motor Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Nov 15, 2019, at 4:51 PM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Sat Nov 16 11:05:53 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 10:05:53 -0800 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Settings I have used: Main 120 Emulsion f16 Air 190 Idle f9/45 Pump 45 Choke 30 This is on a bone stock TVR w 6 motor Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Nov 15, 2019, at 4:51 PM, chris panayotti via Fot wrote: > > ? > Hi all, > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > Thank you > Chris Panayotti > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > From chrispanayotti at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 19:08:40 2019 From: chrispanayotti at gmail.com (chris panayotti) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 21:08:40 -0500 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> References: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> Message-ID: Forgot to hit reply all the first time Hi Scott, Yes they are 40 DCOE 18 I didn't write down my choke sizes but I'm pretty sure they are 30s. I can double check tomorrow. Main jets are 120 emulsion tubes are f11 , idle jet is 50F11, pump jet is 40. I think that is everything. All the carbs are the same. They are made in Italy Weber's also not Mexico ones. Thanks, Chris On Fri, Nov 15, 2019, 8:44 PM Scott Janzen wrote: > > More information is needed. > I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? > What size chokes are you running? > Main jets, idle jets? > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot > wrote: > > > > ? > > Hi all, > > > > I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from > December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. > Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon > manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do > the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to > share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > > > > So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is > accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture > screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point > either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold > it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it > revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all > it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to > blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > > > > I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and > verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At > .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it > at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it > up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a > few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully > used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > > > > Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to > get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but > still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor > but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident > it's a carb problem. > > > > If you need any more info about my setup please ask > > > > Thank you > > Chris Panayotti > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From chrispanayotti at gmail.com Fri Nov 15 19:10:46 2019 From: chrispanayotti at gmail.com (chris panayotti) Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 21:10:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> Message-ID: Yes I believe the vents are clear. It's a pretty large hole that goes into the air filter housing if I'm not mistaken. But I will double check that. Chris On Fri, Nov 15, 2019, 8:51 PM Chuck Gee wrote: > Are the bowl vents clear? > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 15, 2019, at 5:44 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot > wrote: > > > > ? > > More information is needed. > > I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? > > What size chokes are you running? > > Main jets, idle jets? > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > >> On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot < > fot at autox.team.net> wrote: > >> > >> ? > >> Hi all, > >> > >> I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like > from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. > Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon > manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do > the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to > share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. > >> > >> So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is > accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture > screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point > either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold > it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it > revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all > it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to > blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. > >> > >> I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and > verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At > .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it > at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it > up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a > few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully > used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. > >> > >> Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to > get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but > still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor > but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident > it's a carb problem. > >> > >> If you need any more info about my setup please ask > >> > >> Thank you > >> Chris Panayotti > >> _______________________________________________ > >> fot at autox.team.net > >> > >> http://www.fot-racing.com > >> > >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive > http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > >> Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com > >> > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sun Nov 17 01:22:16 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 09:22:16 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 In-Reply-To: References: <2B894233-BA41-454F-A55B-5AA013596385@me.com> Message-ID: <173189750.211953297.1573978936271.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> It is probably the progression circuit indeed. It seems there is no fuel arriving at the progression holes at all and that you manage to overcome this (when there is no load) with the accelerator pump (getting some fuel in the tracts by fast pumping till the main circuit is taking over). Is this a new installation? I know of a guy who does rebuild and inspect new Webers before installing them! Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "Chuck Gee" Cc: "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 16 november 2019 03:10:46 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] DCOE setup on stock tr6 Yes I believe the vents are clear. It's a pretty large hole that goes into the air filter housing if I'm not mistaken. But I will double check that. Chris On Fri, Nov 15, 2019, 8:51 PM Chuck Gee < [ mailto:chasgee22 at gmail.com | chasgee22 at gmail.com ] > wrote: Are the bowl vents clear? Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 15, 2019, at 5:44 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: > > > More information is needed. > I assume these are 40 DCOEs, not 45s? > What size chokes are you running? > Main jets, idle jets? > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Nov 15, 2019, at 7:52 PM, chris panayotti via Fot < [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > wrote: >> >> >> Hi all, >> >> I ran across an archive on your site from a Robert Lang, looks like from December last year. So Taking a total shot in the dark emailing this. Anyway in the thread he talks about running triple DCOEs on a Canon manafold on a TR6 with stock cam and stock compression. I am trying to do the exact same. He mentioned toward the end that he would be willing to share knowledge on the jets and knowledge. >> >> So here it goes, the main symptom I am running into currently is accleration off idle. It starts up and idles pretty good with mixture screws all out about 1.25 turns. But bumping the throttle at that point either load or no load bogs bigtime, bassically kills the engine if I hold it, even if I go very slowly. I did manage to get it to a point where it revs so so if I keep bumping it fast with no load, but with any load at all it bogs and dies. I've come to the conclusion my progression circuit is to blame and that operates off the idle jet, of which all are currently 50F11. >> >> I've gone over all the valve timing with a fine toothed comb and verified a stock cam by checking the lift. All valve gaps are perfect At .010". I removed the vacuum retard from the distributor and am running it at 12deg BTDC right now, and the mechanical advance does work and brings it up to 24ish deg. It is a stock points distributor by the way. I've read a few people mention that I need to upgrade that but others have successfully used it also. I've checked compression all are close and above 125psi. >> >> Any help or insight would be GREATLY appreciated. I've been trying to get this to run right for weeks. I keep crossing things off the list but still haven't gotten it right. I'm still concerned about the distributor but it seems well enough that it should run properly. I'm fairly confident it's a carb problem. >> >> If you need any more info about my setup please ask >> >> Thank you >> Chris Panayotti >> _______________________________________________ >> [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] >> >> [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] >> >> Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] >> Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] >> Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com ] >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] > > [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] > > Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] > Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] > Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com ] > > _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Sun Nov 17 11:23:04 2019 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:23:04 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination Message-ID: I'd like to nominate my friend Fred Winterburn, Morgan Plus 4 owner with questions about early TR engines. Fred worked out a few of the TR cooling problems on his own and he builds and sells his own capacitive discharge ignition system based on what he learned from his father, Lloyd Winterburn, patent holder of the earliest efficient CDI systems ( https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/unsung-motor-industry-hero-fl-winterburn-his-capacitor-nicholas-gomez ). I've been using one of Fred's units for the last few years in a race car and am in the process of installing another unit in another race car. No complaints! Duncan Charlton -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com Sun Nov 17 11:24:24 2019 From: duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com (Duncan Charlton) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:24:24 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Mark -- should he get a second, Fred's email address is: winterburnignition at gmail.com Duncan On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 12:23 PM Duncan Charlton < duncan.charlton54 at gmail.com> wrote: > I'd like to nominate my friend Fred Winterburn, Morgan Plus 4 owner with > questions about early TR engines. > > Fred worked out a few of the TR cooling problems on his own and he builds > and sells his own capacitive discharge ignition system based on what he > learned from his father, Lloyd Winterburn, patent holder of the earliest > efficient CDI systems ( > https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/unsung-motor-industry-hero-fl-winterburn-his-capacitor-nicholas-gomez > ). > > I've been using one of Fred's units for the last few years in a race car > and am in the process of installing another unit in another race car. No > complaints! > > Duncan Charlton > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulricco at att.net Sun Nov 17 11:38:24 2019 From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco) Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:38:24 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Duncan, I second the nomination. The linkedin read was very interesting. Paul Ricco Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 17, 2019, at 12:27 PM, Duncan Charlton via Fot wrote: > > ? > Mark -- should he get a second, Fred's email address is: > winterburnignition at gmail.com > > Duncan > > > >> On Sun, Nov 17, 2019 at 12:23 PM Duncan Charlton wrote: >> I'd like to nominate my friend Fred Winterburn, Morgan Plus 4 owner with questions about early TR engines. >> >> Fred worked out a few of the TR cooling problems on his own and he builds and sells his own capacitive discharge ignition system based on what he learned from his father, Lloyd Winterburn, patent holder of the earliest efficient CDI systems (https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/unsung-motor-industry-hero-fl-winterburn-his-capacitor-nicholas-gomez). >> >> I've been using one of Fred's units for the last few years in a race car and am in the process of installing another unit in another race car. No complaints! >> >> Duncan Charlton > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From yellow-green at sbcglobal.net Mon Nov 18 14:12:42 2019 From: yellow-green at sbcglobal.net (Dennis DeLap) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 15:12:42 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Triumph 2000 Message-ID: A M I C I I found a Triumph 2000 in the Seattle area that I want to buy. 'Long shot here' - Is anyone traveling from the Northwest toward the Midwest with an empty trailer over the course of the next few months? Thanks Dennis -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 18 15:35:16 2019 From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 22:35:16 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Fw: Triumph 2000 In-Reply-To: <20191118211343.3D8F3A060A@autox.team.net> References: <20191118211343.3D8F3A060A@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <890836297.2863138.1574116516322@mail.yahoo.com> I hadn't thought of this until I saw this message, but I have a similar situation.? There is a TR-3 South of San Francisco which I am considering buying.? One of the hindrances is getting it to me in Central North Carolina.? If by chance anyone is going to be traveling the San Francisco to North Caro0lina route (or thereabouts), with an empty trailer, I'd be happy to help out with gas and expenses,. Thanks. Jack PS.? Dennis - Did you race a TR-3 at Watkins Glen in 1975?. ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: Dennis DeLap via Fot To: Friends of Triumph Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019, 4:13:44 PM ESTSubject: [Fot] Triumph 2000 A M I C I I found a Triumph 2000 in the Seattle area that I want to buy. 'Long shot here' - Is anyone traveling from the Northwest toward the Midwest with an empty trailer over the course of the next few months? Thanks Dennis _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 18 17:34:58 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 00:34:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? References: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> OK, so i replaced the battery with a Deka small unit in the duke of oil (TR4A), and installed a new gear reduction starter at the same time. everything seemed both hunky and dory. car started right up and sounded normal, then i noticed that when revved, the ammeter showed progressing discharge! ammeter was at about zero until revved when it went further into the negative amps (to about -15amps) with the increasing revs, much like it would when charging except showing a discharge. i double checked that the batt was in with neg ground (its been neg ground for years). i even checked the polarity with a voltmeter and the batt markings were correct! wtf has happened here? I can re-polarize the generator and im guessing all will be well, but how did this occur? baffled again in norcalnick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Mon Nov 18 19:29:24 2019 From: fmccjr at aol.com (Rick McCurdy) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 21:29:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <215460A9-16B9-411B-B9F8-712353C19B48@aol.com> Swap the ammeter terminals? ??? Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY > On Nov 18, 2019, at 7:34 PM, Nick Black via Fot wrote: > > OK, so i replaced the battery with a Deka small unit in the duke of oil (TR4A), and installed a new gear reduction starter at the same time. everything seemed both hunky and dory. car started right up and sounded normal, then i noticed that when revved, the ammeter showed progressing discharge! ammeter was at about zero until revved when it went further into the negative amps (to about -15amps) with the increasing revs, much like it would when charging except showing a discharge. i double checked that the batt was in with neg ground (its been neg ground for years). i even checked the polarity with a voltmeter and the batt markings were correct! wtf has happened here? I can re-polarize the generator and im guessing all will be well, but how did this occur? > > baffled again in norcal > nick > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fmccjr at aol.com Mon Nov 18 19:29:24 2019 From: fmccjr at aol.com (Rick McCurdy) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 21:29:24 -0500 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <215460A9-16B9-411B-B9F8-712353C19B48@aol.com> Swap the ammeter terminals? ??? Rick McCurdy Newburgh, NY > On Nov 18, 2019, at 7:34 PM, Nick Black via Fot wrote: > > OK, so i replaced the battery with a Deka small unit in the duke of oil (TR4A), and installed a new gear reduction starter at the same time. everything seemed both hunky and dory. car started right up and sounded normal, then i noticed that when revved, the ammeter showed progressing discharge! ammeter was at about zero until revved when it went further into the negative amps (to about -15amps) with the increasing revs, much like it would when charging except showing a discharge. i double checked that the batt was in with neg ground (its been neg ground for years). i even checked the polarity with a voltmeter and the batt markings were correct! wtf has happened here? I can re-polarize the generator and im guessing all will be well, but how did this occur? > > baffled again in norcal > nick > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fmccjr at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From stutztr4 at gmail.com Mon Nov 18 20:18:58 2019 From: stutztr4 at gmail.com (Bruce Stutzman) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 22:18:58 -0500 Subject: [Fot] 2.5 PI Message-ID: Was somebody looking for a 2.5 PI? I've come across one that is available. Bruce Stutzman -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Mon Nov 18 21:28:51 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 22:28:51 -0600 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <215460A9-16B9-411B-B9F8-712353C19B48@aol.com> References: <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1503717390.2046751.1574123698322@mail.yahoo.com> <215460A9-16B9-411B-B9F8-712353C19B48@aol.com> Message-ID: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> What happens if you turn on headlights with the engine not running? -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 19 07:52:13 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 06:52:13 -0800 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> References: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> Message-ID: Good thought but there?s no big loads avail on the car as the only circuit is the ignition. Tried flipping ign on and off but not enuf load to see movement on the gauge. I guess I could have repolarized the gen somehow but it was really just a quick batt change and starter installed when the batt was out. Just thot it odd at least... Yes I?m positive about the negative... Nick Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Nov 18, 2019, at 8:29 PM, Randall via Fot wrote: > > ?What happens if you turn on headlights with the engine not running? > -- Randall_______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > From vintagenick42 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 19 07:52:13 2019 From: vintagenick42 at yahoo.com (Nick Black) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 06:52:13 -0800 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> References: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> Message-ID: Good thought but there?s no big loads avail on the car as the only circuit is the ignition. Tried flipping ign on and off but not enuf load to see movement on the gauge. I guess I could have repolarized the gen somehow but it was really just a quick batt change and starter installed when the batt was out. Just thot it odd at least... Yes I?m positive about the negative... Nick Sent from the wilds of NorCal > On Nov 18, 2019, at 8:29 PM, Randall via Fot wrote: > > ?What happens if you turn on headlights with the engine not running? > -- Randall_______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vintagenick42 at yahoo.com > > From tr3driver at ca.rr.com Tue Nov 19 09:08:30 2019 From: tr3driver at ca.rr.com (Randall) Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 10:08:30 -0600 Subject: [Fot] electrical gremlins...wtf? In-Reply-To: References: <101D1AB1-BDA6-4FE5-90C4-FEF5F3F8DA2E@ca.rr.com> Message-ID: Generator polarity shouldn't be able to do that, since it eventually gets connected to the battery. Normally the battery is much stronger, so the generator gets automatically polarized every time the cutout closes (and the red light goes out). It's not a particularly good idea to switch polarity that way (lots of violence at the cutout contacts when the generator fights the battery), but it does work (if the contacts survive). I keep an assortment of "burned out" headlight bulbs for tests like this. The low beam filament always burbs out first, which leaves the high beam filament functional as a roughly 5 amp load. There are other possibilities, but ammeter polarity is still the first thing I would check. -- Randall -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Nov 20 09:28:21 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 08:28:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Nomination Message-ID: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> Hello Friends, I would like to nominate Scott Meredith, sonomascot at aol.com. Scott is a relatively new to Triumphs. He purchased a really nice and beautifully prepared, blue with red Spitfire race car off Bring a Trailer. Some of you may be familiar with the car. We paddocked together at Sonoma in early October and raced in the same group. Do I have a second? Dave Hogye -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com Wed Nov 20 09:33:24 2019 From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 16:33:24 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Second! From: Fot On Behalf Of DAVE HOGYE via Fot Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2019 10:28 AM To: Friends of Triumph Subject: [Fot] Nomination Hello Friends, I would like to nominate Scott Meredith, sonomascot at aol.com. Scott is a relatively new to Triumphs. He purchased a really nice and beautifully prepared, blue with red Spitfire race car off Bring a Trailer. Some of you may be familiar with the car. We paddocked together at Sonoma in early October and raced in the same group. Do I have a second? Dave Hogye -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From david.c.cutter at gmail.com Wed Nov 20 09:37:23 2019 From: david.c.cutter at gmail.com (David Cutter) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 08:37:23 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Another Spit racer...nice! On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 8:33 AM Barr, Scott via Fot wrote: > Second! > > > > *From:* Fot *On Behalf Of *DAVE HOGYE via Fot > *Sent:* Wednesday, November 20, 2019 10:28 AM > *To:* Friends of Triumph > *Subject:* [Fot] Nomination > > > > Hello Friends, > > I would like to nominate Scott Meredith, sonomascot at aol.com. Scott is a > relatively new to Triumphs. He purchased a really nice and beautifully > prepared, blue with red Spitfire race car off Bring a Trailer. Some of you > may be familiar with the car. We paddocked together at Sonoma in early > October and raced in the same group. > > Do I have a second? > > Dave Hogye > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/david.c.cutter at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Wed Nov 20 13:52:43 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 13:52:43 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> Scott has been added. We are coming up on this list's birthday, and in the 23 years since its beginning we have gathered up 360 members.? Since the early days of what was to become Team Net, I've managed about 70 different lists over those 30 years.? This one is my favorite. mjb. From billdentin at aol.com Wed Nov 20 14:01:10 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 21:01:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1237779537.3138375.1574283670364@mail.yahoo.com> KUDOS, Mark... Seems like FOT members ought to seek funds for a policy to protect our interests in case, God Forbid, something would ever happen to you.? It would take a ton of money to find a replacement. Come to think of it, we should have one for Kas and Joe Alexander as well.... Bill Dentinger -----Original Message----- From: Mark J Bradakis via Fot To: fot Sent: Wed, Nov 20, 2019 12:52 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] Nomination Scott has been added. We are coming up on this list's birthday, and in the 23 years since its beginning we have gathered up 360 members.? Since the early days of what was to become Team Net, I've managed about 70 different lists over those 30 years.? This one is my favorite. mjb. _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Wed Nov 20 17:21:04 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 16:21:04 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Nomination In-Reply-To: <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> References: <1298781262.74798.1574267301367@connect.xfinity.com> <9973e97e-d13c-eedb-09e4-170e91667a20@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <1451310718.83328.1574295664592@connect.xfinity.com> Thanks Mark, Seems like a good time as any to make a donation to Team.net. Dave H. > On November 20, 2019 at 12:52 PM Mark J Bradakis via Fot wrote: > > > Scott has been added. > > We are coming up on this list's birthday, and in the 23 years since its > beginning we have gathered up 360 members.? Since the early days of what > was to become Team Net, I've managed about 70 different lists over those > 30 years.? This one is my favorite. > > mjb. > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Nov 21 14:37:42 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 21:37:42 +0000 Subject: [Fot] FOT SWAG In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm sure everybody will want to be looking their finest at the 2020 Kastner Cup. So, just a reminder that FOT has their own storefront at Lands End Business. I received a call from them today and they are running a 25% off sale through December 4th. Somewhere at the end of your order you will have a spot to plug in code "OUT4" in a box to claim your discount. Don't expect bulk t-shirt prices, there stuff is nice, the embroidery is top notch and most importantly you can order one of. Below is my original email explaining how to order. Marty ________________________________ From: marty Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 8:50 PM To: FOT Subject: FOT SWAG Ok boys and girls. We now have the ability of purchasing FOT bling. There is now a FOT store front on the Lands End Business website. See the instructions below for a link. This is for getting the FOT logo embroidered on any item in their catalog. It is not for silk screened items. I am starting with the black and white coat of arms that was used in the 2012 special shirt run. Once you run through the sequence a time or two it is pretty simple. I have tried to explain it below. I have used Land Ends Business for other car clubs store fronts and it is top quality and best of all you can return things. Give it a try. Marty Sukey 1, go to https://business.landsend.com/store/fot/ 2, set up an account for yourself and log in. 3, pick an item you might want. 4, click on apply logo, 5, select the FOT logo, 6,if you want, select change colors. Here you can experiment with changing colors on the logo to better suit the color of shirt you pick. If you hit select new colors you will get a drop down with multiple boxes. Try putting a different color in each box and see how it effects the logo. Then you can tweak it as needed. 7, select location. 8, hit apply logo. 9, hit cancel or add to bag. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Thu Nov 21 19:28:53 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 19:28:53 -0700 Subject: [Fot] FOT SWAG In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Back when this was first announced, I remember going to the website and looking at hats.? I whined about how the one I wanted had a 2 dozen minimum order.? Later on when I was at Buttonwillow for that event, I caught myself thinking I really wish I had gotten 2 dozen, or more, hats to pass around.? Oh well. I'll do some shopping soon with Mid Ohio in mind. mjb. From vfracing at aol.com Fri Nov 22 14:58:18 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 16:58:18 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support References: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A@aol.com> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone From tony at tonydrews.com Fri Nov 22 20:56:38 2019 From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews) Date: Fri, 22 Nov 2019 21:56:38 -0600 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A@aol.com> References: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A.ref@aol.com> <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A@aol.com> Message-ID: I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.? Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.? To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap? and you must use longer bolts. ?Some? builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > Thanks, > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 23 04:42:46 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 06:42:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >> Thanks, >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 23 04:42:46 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 06:42:46 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >> Thanks, >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Sat Nov 23 05:11:15 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 12:11:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <1782885244.2876404.1574510844990@mail.yahoo.com> References: <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A.ref@aol.com> <9832B3FA-B6DB-40A2-BD22-81071EA4BC5A@aol.com> <1782885244.2876404.1574510844990@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <44648925.2846713.1574511075943@mail.yahoo.com> The center main strap is often used on some high-revving engines, ie Spit & A-series, but I've never seen the need for it on the Tractor engine.If it's well balanced & not run at stupid RPM, the mains will last a long time.Glen -----Original Message----- From: Phil Gott via Fot To: Friends Of Triumph Sent: Fri, Nov 22, 2019 4:58 pm Subject: [Fot] Center main support Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Sat Nov 23 05:15:50 2019 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 07:15:50 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I also followed Uncle Jack's advice. It seemed to calm the engine vibration at higher revs (6000+) in addition to the cast alloy sump. I'm running a stock crank nitrided. Use ARP main studs. . On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 6:43 AM Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Thanks again, Tony: > The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to > reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the > sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through > the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based > on your recommendation, it seems to be. > Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine > today for other work. > Phil > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about > that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. > To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for > the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge > the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel > that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have > never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is > something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > Thanks, > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 23 20:11:05 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 22:11:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > Regards, Tony > >> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Thanks again, Tony: >> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >> Phil >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>> >>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>>> Thanks, >>>> Phil Gott >>>> 114 TR4A >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>>> >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 976982 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1056459 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image2.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 664537 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 23 20:11:05 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 22:11:05 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > Regards, Tony > >> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Thanks again, Tony: >> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >> Phil >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>> >>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>>> Thanks, >>>> Phil Gott >>>> 114 TR4A >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>>> >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 976982 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1056459 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image2.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 664537 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Nov 24 01:47:58 2019 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 09:47:58 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001d01d5a2a3$dfbca9b0$9f35fd10$@gmail.com> Interesting photos. I?ve never thought about this. All my cranks need a little straightening after some use in race engines. The machine shop says, that is normal. Many race engines warp cranks during usage. As long the bearings are okay nothing to do they say. My mains never developed a problem?..and I?m running larger main bearing clearances to compensate crank flexing?.all seems fine. On the other hand, I?m running smaller rod bearing clearances. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 04:11 An: Tony Drews Cc: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews > wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 976982 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1056459 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image003.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 664537 bytes Desc: not available URL: From quikrx at yahoo.com Sun Nov 24 11:16:32 2019 From: quikrx at yahoo.com (ralph hansen) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 18:16:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Factory Comp Prep manuals for sale References: <709204029.3061799.1574619392446.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <709204029.3061799.1574619392446@mail.yahoo.com> hello all,? have for sale one each factory comp prep manuals - new in good to excellent condition (shelf patina (yellowing) only) asking $27.00 US shipped to states, overseas will need to get price - PayPal and USPS is what I use available: MGB 1st editionTR4-TR4A 5th editionTR250, TR5, TR6 2nd edition if interested can email quikrx at yahoo.com or call 847 840 7366 9am-8pm any day central Ralph -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sun Nov 24 14:03:22 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 16:03:22 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. > > Regards, Tony > >> On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Here are some photos: >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> ? >>> I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >>>> Thanks again, Tony: >>>> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >>>> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >>>> Phil >>>> >>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>> >>>>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>>>> >>>>> ? >>>>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>>>> >>>>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>>>> >>>>> Regards, Tony Drews >>>>> >>>>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>>>>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>>>>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>>>>> Thanks, >>>>>> Phil Gott >>>>>> 114 TR4A >>>>>> >>>>>> Sent from my iPhone >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> fot at autox.team.net >>>>>> >>>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>>>>> >>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From kaskastner at gmail.com Sun Nov 24 14:57:41 2019 From: kaskastner at gmail.com (Kas Kastner) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 13:57:41 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> References: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> Message-ID: What Chris has failed to mention is that he holds the revs to 6000 and thus relieves a lot ofstrees on the entire engine. *Never be beaten by equipment.* On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 1:03 PM Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Interesting, Chris: > My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank > supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing > high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be > retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what > you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not > grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to > gain from that diagnosis. > Thanks for the input. > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > > Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. > > Regards, Tony > On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: > > Here are some photos: > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews > wrote: > > ? > > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap > to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > Regards, Tony > On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: > > Thanks again, Tony: > The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to > reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the > sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through > the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based > on your recommendation, it seems to be. > Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine > today for other work. > Phil > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews > wrote: > > ? > > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about > that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. > To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for > the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge > the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel > that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have > never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is > something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > Thanks, > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage : > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/kaskastner at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Nov 24 16:26:38 2019 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 00:26:38 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> References: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> Message-ID: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> Hi Phil, If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews > wrote: ? Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Nov 24 16:29:05 2019 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 00:29:05 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> References: <22C9EBB1-CFD0-486E-BCC7-17FFA1B27F03@aol.com> Message-ID: <001301d5a31e$f6cca210$e465e630$@gmail.com> To add: The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. Simple as that :) Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews > wrote: ? Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steve at artwithcars.com Sun Nov 24 16:31:35 2019 From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 15:31:35 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <001301d5a31e$f6cca210$e465e630$@gmail.com> References: <001301d5a31e$f6cca210$e465e630$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Mmmmmmm schnitzel ~Steve > On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: > > ? > To add: > The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. > The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. > Simple as that J > > Cheers > Chris > > > Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot > Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 > An: Friends Of Triumph > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support > > Interesting, Chris: > My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. > Thanks for the input. > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. > > Regards, Tony > > On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: > Here are some photos: > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > Regards, Tony > > On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: > Thanks again, Tony: > The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. > Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. > Phil > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: > > ? > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > > Regards, Tony Drews > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > Thanks, > Phil Gott > 114 TR4A > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Nov 24 16:58:39 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 23:58:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Center main support References: <1489443971.4803851.1574639919708.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1489443971.4803851.1574639919708@mail.yahoo.com> Ist das nicht ein schnitzel bank?Ja, das ist ein schnitzel bank! Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Sunday, November 24, 2019,?Steven Belfer via Fot??wrote: Mmmmmmm schnitzel? ~Steve On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: ? #yiv7704180401 #yiv7704180401 -- _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Wingdings;panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Consolas;panose-1:2 11 6 9 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv7704180401 #yiv7704180401 p.yiv7704180401MsoNormal, #yiv7704180401 li.yiv7704180401MsoNormal, #yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7704180401 a:link, #yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7704180401 a:visited, #yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7704180401 pre {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv7704180401 p.yiv7704180401msonormal0, #yiv7704180401 li.yiv7704180401msonormal0, #yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401msonormal0 {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401HTMLVorformatiertZchn {font-family:Consolas;}#yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401E-MailFormatvorlage22 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv7704180401 .yiv7704180401MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt;}#yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401WordSection1 {}#yiv7704180401 To add: The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. Simple as that J ? Cheers Chris ? ? Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support ? Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: ? Wow!? It's very nicely done.? Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: ? ? ? ? ? Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill.? Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill ?Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap ?is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. ?I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.? Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.? To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap? and you must use longer bolts. ?Some? builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews ? On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center.Curious as to the need for the extra support.Thanks,Phil Gott114 TR4A ?Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net ?http://www.fot-racing.com ?Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com ? ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From billdentin at aol.com Sun Nov 24 16:58:39 2019 From: billdentin at aol.com (Bill Dentinger) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 23:58:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Center main support References: <1489443971.4803851.1574639919708.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1489443971.4803851.1574639919708@mail.yahoo.com> Ist das nicht ein schnitzel bank?Ja, das ist ein schnitzel bank! Bill Dentinger Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Sunday, November 24, 2019,?Steven Belfer via Fot??wrote: Mmmmmmm schnitzel? ~Steve On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: ? #yiv7704180401 #yiv7704180401 -- _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Wingdings;panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {font-family:Consolas;panose-1:2 11 6 9 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv7704180401 #yiv7704180401 p.yiv7704180401MsoNormal, #yiv7704180401 li.yiv7704180401MsoNormal, #yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7704180401 a:link, #yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7704180401 a:visited, #yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7704180401 pre {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv7704180401 p.yiv7704180401msonormal0, #yiv7704180401 li.yiv7704180401msonormal0, #yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401msonormal0 {margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401HTMLVorformatiertZchn {font-family:Consolas;}#yiv7704180401 span.yiv7704180401E-MailFormatvorlage22 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv7704180401 .yiv7704180401MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered #yiv7704180401 {margin:70.85pt 70.85pt 2.0cm 70.85pt;}#yiv7704180401 div.yiv7704180401WordSection1 {}#yiv7704180401 To add: The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. Simple as that J ? Cheers Chris ? ? Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support ? Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: ? Wow!? It's very nicely done.? Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: ? ? ? ? ? Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill.? Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill ?Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap ?is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. ?I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick.? Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end.? To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap? and you must use longer bolts. ?Some? builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews ? On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center.Curious as to the need for the extra support.Thanks,Phil Gott114 TR4A ?Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________fot at autox.team.net ?http://www.fot-racing.com ?Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlArchive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com ? ? ? _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/billdentin at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jhasty at mhc-law.com Sun Nov 24 17:57:45 2019 From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 00:57:45 +0000 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> References: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C4445D2-1FD6-440F-87F7-62E897A123ED@mhc-law.com> Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: ? Hi Phil, If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. Cheers Chris Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews > wrote: ? Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: ? I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From chasgee22 at gmail.com Sun Nov 24 18:28:02 2019 From: chasgee22 at gmail.com (chasgee22 at gmail.com) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 17:28:02 -0800 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That?s funny, I said the same thing to myself when I read his email! Chuck > On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:31 PM, Steven Belfer via Fot wrote: > > ?Mmmmmmm schnitzel > > ~Steve > > >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>> >> ? >> To add: >> The reason for the deformation of the crank is cause by the ignition forces. >> The rod is hammering on one place of the bearing journal and like a Schnitzel it expands at that place from hammering on which bends the crank. >> Simple as that J >> >> Cheers >> Chris >> >> >> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot >> Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 >> An: Friends Of Triumph >> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support >> >> Interesting, Chris: >> My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. >> Thanks for the input. >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: >> >> ? >> Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. >> >> Regards, Tony >> >> On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Here are some photos: >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >> >> ? >> I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. >> >> Regards, Tony >> >> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >> Thanks again, Tony: >> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >> Phil >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >> >> ? >> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >> >> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >> >> Regards, Tony Drews >> >> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >> Thanks, >> Phil Gott >> 114 TR4A >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/steve at artwithcars.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dlhogye at comcast.net Sun Nov 24 19:27:43 2019 From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE) Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 18:27:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <4C4445D2-1FD6-440F-87F7-62E897A123ED@mhc-law.com> References: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> <4C4445D2-1FD6-440F-87F7-62E897A123ED@mhc-law.com> Message-ID: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> My brother worked for Gran Turismo Jaguar in Northern Ohio a few decades ago and I remember well him telling me they taught him how to straighten cranks with a mallet of some sort, set up in a rotational device. I thought it was barbaric at the time having never heard of that sort of thing, but GTJ definitely knew what they were doing. GTJ built championship winning Jags. Dave H. > On November 24, 2019 at 4:57 PM "John H. Hasty via Fot" wrote: > > Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > Hi Phil, > > > > > > > > If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. > > > > They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. > > > > They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. > > > > > > > > I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. > > > > > > > > For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. > > > > Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. > > > > > > > > Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. > > > > > > > > Cheers > > > > Chris > > > > > > > > > > > > Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot > > Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 > > An: Friends Of Triumph > > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support > > > > > > > > Interesting, Chris: > > > > My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. > > Thanks for the input. > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. > > > > > > Regards, Tony > > > > > > On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Here are some photos: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews mailto:tony at tonydrews.com wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. > > > > > > > > > > Regards, Tony > > > > > > > > > > On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks again, Tony: > > > > > > > > > > > > The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. > > > > > > > > > > > > Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. > > > > > > > > > > > > Phil > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews mailto:tony at tonydrews.com wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): > > > > > > > > > > > > > > "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Regards, Tony Drews > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Curious as to the need for the extra support. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks, > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Phil Gott > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > 114 TR4A > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > fot at autox.team.net > > > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maddhatt69 at aol.com Sun Nov 24 20:38:27 2019 From: maddhatt69 at aol.com (Mathieu W. Huovinen) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 03:38:27 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question References: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From triumphsix at yahoo.com Mon Nov 25 03:58:04 2019 From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 10:58:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <532642969.3231030.1574679484941@mail.yahoo.com> Hi Mathieu, Haven?t heard of that myself, but you didn?t mention the condition of the timing chain tensioner. ? Was it new recently? ? Perhaps the spring is too relaxed to keep proper tension on the chain. ? Also look at the timing cover where the tensioner rides. ? Has it worn a big groove into the timing cover? ?Maybe it?s getting held up. ? Compare it with a new tensioner spring, and see if the arc is relaxed a bit. That?s what I?d check first, but maybe you?ve done that. ? ?Is it a stock cam wheel, or is it an adjustable one? ?I?m assuming stock... Hope that helps!Dave Gott Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38 PM, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/triumphsix at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 25 04:21:12 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 11:21:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <181980779.3210587.1574680872086@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Nov 25 05:07:02 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 07:07:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Thanks everyone for the input! Very helpful! Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:28 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > ? > My brother worked for Gran Turismo Jaguar in Northern Ohio a few decades ago and I remember well him telling me they taught him how to straighten cranks with a mallet of some sort, set up in a rotational device. I thought it was barbaric at the time having never heard of that sort of thing, but GTJ definitely knew what they were doing. GTJ built championship winning Jags. > Dave H. >>> On November 24, 2019 at 4:57 PM "John H. Hasty via Fot" wrote: >>> >>> Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Hi Phil, >>> >>> >>> >>> If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. >>> >>> They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. >>> >>> They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. >>> >>> >>> >>> I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. >>> >>> >>> >>> For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. >>> >>> Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. >>> >>> >>> >>> Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot >>> Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 >>> An: Friends Of Triumph >>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support >>> >>> >>> >>> Interesting, Chris: >>> >>> My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. >>> Thanks for the input. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: >>> >>> Here are some photos: >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >>> >>> Thanks again, Tony: >>> >>> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >>> >>> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >>> >>> Phil >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>> >>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> >>> >>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>> >>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Phil Gott >>> >>> 114 TR4A >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Mon Nov 25 05:07:02 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 07:07:02 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> References: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: Thanks everyone for the input! Very helpful! Phil Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:28 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote: > > ? > My brother worked for Gran Turismo Jaguar in Northern Ohio a few decades ago and I remember well him telling me they taught him how to straighten cranks with a mallet of some sort, set up in a rotational device. I thought it was barbaric at the time having never heard of that sort of thing, but GTJ definitely knew what they were doing. GTJ built championship winning Jags. > Dave H. >>> On November 24, 2019 at 4:57 PM "John H. Hasty via Fot" wrote: >>> >>> Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Hi Phil, >>> >>> >>> >>> If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. >>> >>> They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. >>> >>> They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. >>> >>> >>> >>> I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. >>> >>> >>> >>> For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. >>> >>> Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. >>> >>> >>> >>> Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers >>> >>> Chris >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Von: Fot Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot >>> Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 >>> An: Friends Of Triumph >>> Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support >>> >>> >>> >>> Interesting, Chris: >>> >>> My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. >>> Thanks for the input. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: >>> >>> Here are some photos: >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. >>> >>> Regards, Tony >>> >>> On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: >>> >>> Thanks again, Tony: >>> >>> The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. >>> >>> Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. >>> >>> Phil >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): >>> >>> "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." >>> >>> Regards, Tony Drews >>> >>> >>> >>> On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: >>> >>> Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. >>> >>> Curious as to the need for the extra support. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Phil Gott >>> >>> 114 TR4A >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> fot at autox.team.net >>> >>> http://www.fot-racing.com >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> fot at autox.team.net >> >> http://www.fot-racing.com >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maddhatt69 at aol.com Mon Nov 25 05:14:06 2019 From: maddhatt69 at aol.com (Mathieu W. Huovinen) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 12:14:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <181980779.3210587.1574680872086@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1924852295.6005005.1574653107620@mail.yahoo.com> <181980779.3210587.1574680872086@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1236513597.6131929.1574684046086@mail.yahoo.com> Gents, I do have an adjustable cam gear and it was tight. Double roller, cam gear, and crank gear all sourced from Jigsaw Racking UK about two years ago. Maybe 5 weekends worth of use. I did reuse the chain tensioner that was in the timing chain cover (unknown use- likely stock from the early 70s) and I will admit it is the tensioner for a single chain- it also seems pretty worn. I am ordering a double chain tensioner from Moss this a.m. and see how it differs and will swap them out. Thanks for the responses! Mathieu -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang To: fot ; Mathieu W. Huovinen Sent: Mon, Nov 25, 2019 6:21 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From johnstydo at gmail.com Mon Nov 25 09:21:42 2019 From: johnstydo at gmail.com (John Styduhar) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 11:21:42 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Fwd: SVRA's Black Friday Savings Start Now! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: FYI- SVRA Black Friday registration savings. ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: SVRA Date: Mon, Nov 25, 2019 at 10:47 AM Subject: SVRA's Black Friday Savings Start Now! To: johnstydo at gmail.com No Images? Click here [image: BLACK FRIDAY SALE] *SAVE ALL WEEK* ALL SVRA 2020 Sprint Race Entries*$100 OFF* *Shop Our Black Friday Sale - Starting Monday 11/25 and ending Friday 11/29 at MIDNIGHT. Save $100 On All Event Sprint Race Entries. No Limit. No Coupon Necessary. * *Offer valid on new entries only. Offer is not valid for Marque Reunion Entries.** Online Sprint Race Entry Fee Reflects $100 Savings.* REGISTER ONLINE NOW SVRA 1312 Regency Court Southlake, TX 76092 Forward Unsubscribe -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tr4racing at googlemail.com Sun Nov 24 23:56:35 2019 From: tr4racing at googlemail.com (tr4racing at googlemail.com) Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 07:56:35 +0100 Subject: [Fot] Center main support In-Reply-To: <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> References: <000e01d5a31e$9f4010e0$ddc032a0$@gmail.com> <4C4445D2-1FD6-440F-87F7-62E897A123ED@mhc-law.com> <1250945834.133204.1574648863421@connect.xfinity.com> Message-ID: <000901d5a35d$7de20c70$79a62550$@gmail.com> Dave, it is fascinating to watch, how two people straightening a crank within few minutes. One is holding the bearing journal in place on a holder and the other give it a blow and measuring. Very cool. Once I helped myself. Nobody had a hand free, so I held the crank in place :) Cheers Chris Von: DAVE HOGYE Gesendet: Montag, 25. November 2019 03:28 An: John H. Hasty ; John H. Hasty via Fot ; tr4racing at googlemail.com Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support My brother worked for Gran Turismo Jaguar in Northern Ohio a few decades ago and I remember well him telling me they taught him how to straighten cranks with a mallet of some sort, set up in a rotational device. I thought it was barbaric at the time having never heard of that sort of thing, but GTJ definitely knew what they were doing. GTJ built championship winning Jags. Dave H. On November 24, 2019 at 4:57 PM "John H. Hasty via Fot" > wrote: Chris: That is exactly how we built the roller bearing crank half's for our two stroke GP bikes... well placed blows with a brass hammer and in an hour or so you end up with a straight crank Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 6:27 PM, Chris Marx via Fot > wrote: Hi Phil, If I give a crank to the machine shop for testing and maybe polishing they also correcting straightness. They using a hammer and a wedge like tool with brass or bronze surface and giving it a big blow at some places to make it straight. They also checking with magna flux system for cracks. I run 0.0027? main bearing clearance. For sure Kas throw in is right. I keep the revs below 6k with the standard crank. Many people going up to 7k with their engines but I don?t dare. A billet crank might help a little but I saw billet cranks breaking too. Engine power is not my main concern. Cornering speed is. Cheers Chris Von: Fot > Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot Gesendet: Sonntag, 24. November 2019 22:03 An: Friends Of Triumph > Betreff: Re: [Fot] Center main support Interesting, Chris: My machine shop said that .002? run out at the center main, with the crank supported and spun on numbers 1 and 3 was a sign that it was developing high levels of internal stress (work hardening) and that it should be retired. They aim for 0 run out under these conditions. Based on what you?ve said, I wonder if they are being overly cautious. As they do not grind cranks themselves ( only polishing and balancing), they had little to gain from that diagnosis. Thanks for the input. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 24, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Tony Drews > wrote: Wow! It's very nicely done. Certainly overkill. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 9:11 PM, Phil Gott wrote: Here are some photos: Sent from my iPhone On Nov 23, 2019, at 12:23 PM, Tony Drews wrote: I agree, that sounds like overkill. Mine only requires the top of the cap to be machined flat, no other block mods. Regards, Tony On 11/23/2019 5:42 AM, Phil Gott wrote: Thanks again, Tony: The one we have, built by the late Bill Throop, in addition to reinforcing the cap itself, has the block machined internally to accept the sides of a strap, then the strap is cross bolted from the sides, through the block from outside. I?m wondering if this is a bit of overkill. Based on your recommendation, it seems to be. Maybe I can send some pictures later today, as we are pulling the engine today for other work. Phil Sent from my iPhone On Nov 22, 2019, at 10:56 PM, Tony Drews wrote: I run that setup, it was an uncle jack trick. Here's what he wrote about that (on my engine building tips page): "I also like to strap the center main to add rigidity to the bottom end. To do this, mill off the cast face of the main flush with the surfaces for the head bolts. Get a front strap for a Chevy 400 block. You must enlarge the holes in the strap and you must use longer bolts. Some builders feel that this is totally unnecessary, but since starting to do this, I have never had a main bearing deteriorate faster than a rod bearing, which is something that happens more frequently than you would expect." Regards, Tony Drews On 11/22/2019 3:58 PM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote: Has anyone seen the need to add extra support to the center main on the TR wet sleeve engine? We have an engine that has a steel bridge cross-bolted underneath and supporting the center main cap. Is this needed? Just took 3 factory cranks to the machine shop and all three were bent about .002 in (.002 run out at center main when supported on first and last mains.) Two of these were raced, the third was removed from a tired street engine. note: None of these cranks came out of the engine with extra support at the center. Curious as to the need for the extra support. Thanks, Phil Gott 114 TR4A Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tony at tonydrews.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jhasty at mhc-law.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/dlhogye at comcast.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maddhatt69 at aol.com Tue Nov 26 05:54:25 2019 From: maddhatt69 at aol.com (Mathieu W. Huovinen) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:54:25 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question References: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189@mail.yahoo.com> Bob and FOT, I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned! Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From maddhatt69 at aol.com Tue Nov 26 05:55:35 2019 From: maddhatt69 at aol.com (Mathieu W. Huovinen) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:55:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question References: <1442085095.168315.1574772935627.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1442085095.168315.1574772935627@mail.yahoo.com> On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20191126_074321.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2156043 bytes Desc: not available URL: From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com Tue Nov 26 06:26:14 2019 From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 13:26:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1625959716.194668.1574772865189@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1277791933.3595845.1574774774149@mail.yahoo.com> Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer".? Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT, I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned! Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rick.parent at att.net Tue Nov 26 07:28:38 2019 From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 14:28:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1277791933.3595845.1574774774149@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1625959716.194668.1574772865189.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1625959716.194668.1574772865189@mail.yahoo.com> <1277791933.3595845.1574774774149@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1781290446.3615804.1574778518186@mail.yahoo.com> That's about normal, why in the sam hell are you using that heavy ass double chain set up?? Come on man get it together. On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 08:29:26 AM EST, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer".? Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT, I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned! Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sjanzen at me.com Tue Nov 26 10:32:59 2019 From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:32:59 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Not a Triumph for Sale Message-ID: <67929DF2-5055-45C1-94C9-61FEE72F64E4@me.com> A friend of mine is going to sell his 1964 E type coupe, numbers matching, opalescent silver blue, original color, restored by Terry Lippincott. He?s thinking about $135k. Just north of Philadelphia PA. Beautiful car. Let me know if you want an introduction before it goes to a consignor or on BAT. I sold my 69 25 years ago. Oops. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_4328.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 91965 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_3182.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 189682 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Tue Nov 26 10:33:10 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:33:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question References: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422@mail.yahoo.com> Damned right, my 1300 small-crank has always had a single row chain, for that reason, that double-row setup is heavy.At 6-8 hour TBO, the chain & tensioner were routine replacement anyhow.Also not all chains & tensioners are created equal, some vendors are now offering quality chains as an option, and the tensioners should be plated, they last a lot longer. Glen heavy ass double chain set up?? -----Original Message----- From: Rick Parent via Fot To: fot ; Mathieu W. Huovinen ; Robert Lang Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 9:28 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question That's about normal, why in the sam hell are you using that heavy ass double chain set up?? Come on man get it together. On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 08:29:26 AM EST, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer".? Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT,I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned!Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Wed Nov 27 05:17:09 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 13:17:09 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <488929084.42707901.1574857029546.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> If the chain tensioner is badly worn (deep grooves) after a short time, this is a sign that the chain is moving wildly. This can happen when the chain gears are not properly aligned : aligning the gears is very important and should be checked when a billet steel crankshaft or non original gears (Vernier camshaft gear) are fitted. I don't know for the Spitfire chain tensioner, but the TR 4 cyl tensioner does next to nothing for keeping the chain quietly. Does someone know of a trick to replace this very weak tensioner with something stronger, or a tensioner that is working with the oil pressure? Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "rick parent" , "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 26 november 2019 18:33:10 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question Damned right, my 1300 small-crank has always had a single row chain, for that reason, that double-row setup is heavy. At 6-8 hour TBO, the chain & tensioner were routine replacement anyhow. Also not all chains & tensioners are created equal, some vendors are now offering quality chains as an option, and the tensioners should be plated, they last a lot longer. Glen heavy ass double chain set up?? -----Original Message----- From: Rick Parent via Fot To: fot ; Mathieu W. Huovinen ; Robert Lang Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 9:28 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question That's about normal, why in the sam hell are you using that heavy ass double chain set up?? Come on man get it together. On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 08:29:26 AM EST, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer". Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya, Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT, I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned! Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang < robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com > wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya, Bob Lang 339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together. Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com ] _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net ] _______________________________________________ [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | fot at autox.team.net ] [ http://www.fot-racing.com/ | http://www.fot-racing.com ] Donate: [ http://www.team.net/donate.html | http://www.team.net/donate.html ] Archive: [ http://autox.team.net/archive | http://autox.team.net/archive ] [ http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot | http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot ] Unsubscribe/Manage: [ http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com | http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com ] _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fubog1 at aol.com Wed Nov 27 06:09:03 2019 From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 13:09:03 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question In-Reply-To: <488929084.42707901.1574857029546.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1864140897.3689810.1574789590422@mail.yahoo.com> <488929084.42707901.1574857029546.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: <353385799.3909565.1574860143901@mail.yahoo.com> Yes the alignment is another good point, misalignment can eat up a chain and set of gears quickly.The tensioner design is fine for a stock engine but it's just another point where we're pushing it way beyond design limits.Ideally it should have a spring/oil pressure pad ala MG, Jaguar, etc.Making the best of a bad situation, good quality gears and chain, and a plated tensioner, will last a long time.I also polish the free end of the tensioner where it slides on the inside of the timing cover, some have very rough sharp edges and will "scrape" right through the cover.(Yeah some of you are nodding your head and laughing at memories of elusive oil leaks...)Glen -----Original Message----- From: van.mulders.marcel To: fubog1 Cc: fot Sent: Wed, Nov 27, 2019 7:17 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question If? the chain tensioner is badly worn (deep grooves) after a short time, this is a sign that the chain is moving wildly. This can happen when the chain gears are not properly aligned : aligning the gears is very important and should be checked when a billet steel crankshaft or non original gears (Vernier camshaft gear) are fitted. I don't know for the Spitfire chain tensioner, but the TR 4 cyl? tensioner does next to nothing for keeping? the chain quietly. Does someone know of a trick to replace this very weak tensioner with something stronger, or a tensioner that is working with the oil pressure??Marcel Van: "fot" Aan: "rick parent" , "fot" Verzonden: Dinsdag 26 november 2019 18:33:10 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question Damned right, my 1300 small-crank has always had a single row chain, for that reason, that double-row setup is heavy.At 6-8 hour TBO, the chain & tensioner were routine replacement anyhow.Also not all chains & tensioners are created equal, some vendors are now offering quality chains as an option, and the tensioners should be plated, they last a lot longer. Glen heavy ass double chain set up?? -----Original Message----- From: Rick Parent via Fot To: fot ; Mathieu W. Huovinen ; Robert Lang Sent: Tue, Nov 26, 2019 9:28 am Subject: Re: [Fot] Weird Race Weekend Question That's about normal, why in the sam hell are you using that heavy ass double chain set up?? Come on man get it together. On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 08:29:26 AM EST, Robert Lang via Fot wrote: Hi - They usually "jump" a tooth on overrun, or at least that's my experience. Or it can happen on a backfire... I had a Pontiac with a V8 back in the day. The exhaust pipe broke before the muffler, so it had a really kool rumble sound. I used to take it out at night and drive exit ramps at "stupid speed" and then downshift the auto trans one gear to get the koolest sound... not to mention "power-off oversteer".? Drift City. After one of these excursions, the engine became very hard to start. I took the car off the road and sold it to a friend. About a month later, he called me up all pissed off and wanting his $600 back because he had to fix the timing chain. Never sold a car to a friend or associate ever again. ;-) But in addition to the new chain and tensioner, take a close look at that crank gear and make sure the "troughs" don't have a burr or the points aren't sharp, either would indicate wear and you don't want that. I don't recall a spec for play in the chain, but you want "as little as possible". If you can get the cam gear onto the cam easily with the chain threaded, that's too loose. C ya,Bob Lang On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 7:54:29 AM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen wrote: Bob and FOT,I'm beginning to suspect a combination of a weak chain tensioner and an engine harmonic that may have caused it. Attached a pic of the play in the timing chain..about 1/2". Is that too much? If so, Ted, I'll be contacting you shortly. Chain is about two years old, maybe 6 weekend s of racing on it. New chain tensioner from Moss should be here today and I'm interested in seeing the difference in spring arch between the original single chain tensioner and the new TR6 double chain tensioner. Stay tuned!Mathieu On Monday, November 25, 2019 Robert Lang wrote: Hi - I've seen this before. Mostly on American V8's but the principle is the same... It's almost always a loose chain or worn teeth on the crank gear. If the? crank gear has really sharp teeth, the gear is probably worn. Note that this is really easy to overlook. And I've had this problem with TR6 engines a couple of times. Especially if you sourced the inexpensive gears. Seems like the hardening of the metal is wrong on some of the parts out there. That said, the numbers look like you jumped more than one tooth. If the "jump" occurred on the crank end one tooth is about 17 degrees (360/21 teeth). Your mention of 150ish for your lobe center sound more like more than 34 degrees or retard, the progression would be (roughly) 104 - good, 121 - not good, 138 - bad, 155 - really bad, etc. Note that I have seen engines run with more than 30 degrees of retard, but they ran very poorly! I'd double check your crank gear for wear... actually, I'd just replace it along with the tensioner. Note that the current chain tensioners seem to be not as good as the OEM ones as the new ones wear fairly rapidly. On the plus side, at least you didn't bend a valve in the process. C ya,Bob Lang339-927-4489 On Sunday, November 24, 2019, 10:38:49 PM EST, Mathieu W. Huovinen via Fot wrote: Fellas, Sounds like we have the bearing cap strap issue resolved...who is up for another mystery? Has anyone ever has their timing chain skip a tooth?? Final race on Saturday at the Turlkey Bowl this weekend at Summit Point. Triumph Spitfire..1296 engine. Double roller chain set. Car was running well all weekend, was out twice earlier that day. We leave false grid for the to set up for the first lap and I begin to accelerate. All of a sudden the car just dies and I coast off the track even before turn one. On the side of the track I couldn't start the car. In my mind I'm thinking my perrtonix distributor just took a shit. Got towed in and all I'm thinking in pertronix. I swap in a points distributor and nothing. Perhaps my coil? Swap in a new coil. Nothing. Plugs perhaps? Swap in a good set of NGKs. Nothing. Not even a cough out of the engine. By this time I had run down the battery from trying to start it so much. At this point I was jumping the racecar battery from my Tundra truck battery thinking perhaps a weak spark from a shot battery. Nothing. Was getting plenty of fuel because the plugs were wet. I even pulled and cleaned all the jets out of the Weber 45 DCOE just to make sure I was getting correct fuel. Fuel. Air. Spark. COMPRESSION. This next day (this morning) I did a compression test at the track. 80/70/70/70. What the heck? Thats not a blown head gasket..the cam HAS to be out of timing. I spent the majority of the 5 hour drive home trying to figure it out. Got home, car off trailer, straight to work. Pulled radiator, pulley, timing chain cover. No damage. Find TDC and put on my degree wheel. Pulled rockers and set dial indicator on #1 intake. Tuned engine over to where cam sheet says where #1 centerline is- 104 degrees after TDC while watching dial indicator. Went past 104 and dial was still climbing. Made it to to about 150ish degrees past TDC til indicator started to drop back down so I know I had went right past the peak of the lobe. Pulled chain off carefully and rotated camshaft until I found peak of lobe and moved crank back to 104 and set the chain back on...about one tooth ?Put rockers back on and checked compression on #1. 160 PSI. That's as far as I got before my wife came down to yell art me. It was already 2130 at this point. More tomorrow as I put it back together.? Thoughts? Ideas? Can the timing chain "float" at high revs? Thank-you in advance for any input! V/r, Mathieu Huovinen_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/fubog1 at aol.com _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From macdonaldp at rogers.com Wed Nov 27 08:34:54 2019 From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 10:34:54 -0500 Subject: [Fot] Huffaker TR8 coupe Clone References: <009901d5a538$395067a0$abf136e0$.ref@rogers.com> Message-ID: <009901d5a538$395067a0$abf136e0$@rogers.com> It appears that the car is now for sale, I have a bit more info if anyone wants to follow up. Car appears to be a high quality build, dry sump engine, round fender flare Huffaker body, $8-10K. Car needs to be raced. Paul From: Joe Guinan [mailto:joeg at neb.rr.com] Sent: August 5, 2019 4:45 PM To: 'Paul MacDonald' Cc: gregoryallansharpe at yahoo.com Subject: RE: [Fot] Questions about TR8 Race Car Very cool. That?s good info. Thanks, Paul. From: Paul MacDonald Sent: Monday, August 5, 2019 1:46 PM To: 'MACDONALD' ; 'Joe Guinan' Cc: gregoryallansharpe at yahoo.com Subject: RE: [Fot] Questions about TR8 Race Car Posted some info https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/motorsports-forum.22/tr-8-gt1-huffaker-clone.1637638/ Paul From: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MACDONALD via Fot Sent: August 4, 2019 9:49 AM To: Joe Guinan Cc: gregoryallansharpe at yahoo.com; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] Questions about TR8 Race Car I have a bunch of info on the car. Talked to Chuck a number of times over the past 10 -15 years. Will share what I have, when I get to my pc. Paul Sent from my iPhone On Aug 4, 2019, at 9:33 AM, Joe Guinan via Fot wrote: Possible GT1 Huffaker Clone ? Greg Sharpe is asking questions in The Triumph Experience ?Motorsports? forum Link - https://www.triumphexp.com/forum/motorsports-forum22/tr-8-gt1-huffaker-clone.1637638/ I know almost nothing about these, so suggested we might find some FOT members with information. If you are interested in providing any information, please follow the link and post on the forum or reply directly to Greg at gregoryallansharpe at yahoo.com. Thanks in advance! Joe Guinan Fremont, Nebraska _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://wwwfot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/macdonaldp at rogers.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mark at bradakis.com Wed Nov 27 20:35:58 2019 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 20:35:58 -0700 Subject: [Fot] Happy Thanksgiving! Message-ID: <01c66a65-e8e1-06e2-0476-100ff072b145@bradakis.com> For those of you who celebrate the occasion, enjoy!? And remember to set your scales back 10 pounds before you go to bed, in anticipation of the big meal. mjb. From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Nov 29 11:39:19 2019 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty) Date: Fri, 29 Nov 2019 18:39:19 +0000 Subject: [Fot] MORE FOT SWAG In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: FWIW, Lands Ends business is running a black Friday deal today only. Free embroidery AND 25% off. Use code "EBLACKFRIDAY" at checkout. Sorry Brian. ? Marty ________________________________ From: marty Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2019 4:37 PM To: FOT Subject: Re: FOT SWAG I'm sure everybody will want to be looking their finest at the 2020 Kastner Cup. So, just a reminder that FOT has their own storefront at Lands End Business. I received a call from them today and they are running a 25% off sale through December 4th. Somewhere at the end of your order you will have a spot to plug in code "OUT4" in a box to claim your discount. Don't expect bulk t-shirt prices, there stuff is nice, the embroidery is top notch and most importantly you can order one of. Below is my original email explaining how to order. Marty ________________________________ From: marty Sent: Wednesday, March 13, 2019 8:50 PM To: FOT Subject: FOT SWAG Ok boys and girls. We now have the ability of purchasing FOT bling. There is now a FOT store front on the Lands End Business website. See the instructions below for a link. This is for getting the FOT logo embroidered on any item in their catalog. It is not for silk screened items. I am starting with the black and white coat of arms that was used in the 2012 special shirt run. Once you run through the sequence a time or two it is pretty simple. I have tried to explain it below. I have used Land Ends Business for other car clubs store fronts and it is top quality and best of all you can return things. Give it a try. Marty Sukey 1, go to https://business.landsend.com/store/fot/ 2, set up an account for yourself and log in. 3, pick an item you might want. 4, click on apply logo, 5, select the FOT logo, 6,if you want, select change colors. Here you can experiment with changing colors on the logo to better suit the color of shirt you pick. If you hit select new colors you will get a drop down with multiple boxes. Try putting a different color in each box and see how it effects the logo. Then you can tweak it as needed. 7, select location. 8, hit apply logo. 9, hit cancel or add to bag. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sat Nov 30 04:58:08 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 12:58:08 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads Message-ID: <976471692.58670073.1575115088433.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> I've some problems with a TR6 race engine : the engine is pinking and overheating. Compression ratio is 12.5. Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference between 6 cylinder heads. Does anyone know which cars do have which cylinderheads? Can I add these passages on my cylinderhead, hoping for better cooling? I've been working on this engine now and then since 2 years. It belongs to a racecar a friend of mine has built. He has lost interest in this racing project and I bought the car. I'd like to see it on a racetrack some day. Marcel -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gt6steve at aol.com Sat Nov 30 08:35:14 2019 From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 15:35:14 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads References: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> Are you running a restrictor in the T-stat housing? ?I ended up with one with a hole about the size of a dime. ?Made a huge difference. ?Also the highest pressure cap you can find Sent from AOL Mobile Mail Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com On?Saturday, November 30, 2019,?van.mulders.marcel--- via Fot??wrote: I've some problems with a?TR6 race engine : the engine is pinking and overheating. Compression ratio is 12.5. Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. Does anyone know which cars do have which cylinderheads? Can I add these passages on my cylinderhead, hoping for better cooling? I've been working on this engine now and then since 2 years. It belongs to a racecar a friend of mine has built. He has lost interest in this racing project and I bought the car. I'd like to see it on a racetrack some day. Marcel_______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gt6steve at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Nov 30 08:50:06 2019 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 08:50:06 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> References: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping for an earlier head that still has all the passages. TeriAnn Who knows nothing about TR6 heads From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sat Nov 30 09:08:15 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 17:08:15 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: References: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <807951668.59641828.1575130095427.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> That's interesting and may well be the reason. The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. Marcel ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- Van: "fot" Aan: "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping for an earlier head that still has all the passages. TeriAnn Who knows nothing about TR6 heads _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be From tjwakeman at gmail.com Sat Nov 30 09:55:54 2019 From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 09:55:54 -0700 Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: <807951668.59641828.1575130095427.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> References: <681714277.4610812.1575128114943.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <681714277.4610812.1575128114943@mail.yahoo.com> <807951668.59641828.1575130095427.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Message-ID: On 11/30/19 9:08 AM, van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be wrote: > That's interesting and may well be the reason. > The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. > Marcel There are usually thin walls between water passages and exhaust passage ways and the spaces around the combustion chambers follow curves. It is not just a straight drilled hole. I suggest you chalk up your existing head as practice and start again with an earlier head. TeriAnn > > ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- > Van: "fot" > Aan: "fot" > Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 > Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads > > Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head > (probably also from a TR6 , but from a?? Triumph saloon is also possible) > : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My > cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other > cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of > this difference?? between 6 cylinder heads. > > > Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking > in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their > engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing > coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or > eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head > intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping > for an earlier head that still has all the passages. > > TeriAnn > Who knows nothing about TR6 heads > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 30 10:54:39 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 12:54:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43CD99DE-E68B-486F-95EA-26AA7CBF9889@aol.com> Make certain that the gasket also has the accommodating holes! Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 30, 2019, at 11:56 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot wrote: > > ? > On 11/30/19 9:08 AM, van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be wrote: >> That's interesting and may well be the reason. >> The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. >> Marcel > There are usually thin walls between water passages and exhaust passage ways and the spaces around the combustion chambers follow curves. It is not just a straight drilled hole. > > I suggest you chalk up your existing head as practice and start again with an earlier head. > > TeriAnn > > > > > >> >> ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- >> Van: "fot" >> Aan: "fot" >> Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 >> Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads >> >> Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head >> (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) >> : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My >> cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other >> cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of >> this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. >> >> >> Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking >> in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their >> engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing >> coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or >> eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head >> intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping >> for an earlier head that still has all the passages. >> >> TeriAnn >> Who knows nothing about TR6 heads >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vfracing at aol.com Sat Nov 30 10:54:39 2019 From: vfracing at aol.com (Phil Gott) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 12:54:39 -0500 Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <43CD99DE-E68B-486F-95EA-26AA7CBF9889@aol.com> Make certain that the gasket also has the accommodating holes! Sent from my iPhone > On Nov 30, 2019, at 11:56 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot wrote: > > ? > On 11/30/19 9:08 AM, van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be wrote: >> That's interesting and may well be the reason. >> The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. >> Marcel > There are usually thin walls between water passages and exhaust passage ways and the spaces around the combustion chambers follow curves. It is not just a straight drilled hole. > > I suggest you chalk up your existing head as practice and start again with an earlier head. > > TeriAnn > > > > > >> >> ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- >> Van: "fot" >> Aan: "fot" >> Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 >> Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads >> >> Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head >> (probably also from a TR6 , but from a? Triumph saloon is also possible) >> : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My >> cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other >> cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of >> this difference? between 6 cylinder heads. >> >> >> Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking >> in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their >> engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing >> coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or >> eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head >> intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping >> for an earlier head that still has all the passages. >> >> TeriAnn >> Who knows nothing about TR6 heads >> > > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be Sat Nov 30 12:01:34 2019 From: van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be (van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be) Date: Sat, 30 Nov 2019 20:01:34 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads In-Reply-To: <43CD99DE-E68B-486F-95EA-26AA7CBF9889@aol.com> References: <43CD99DE-E68B-486F-95EA-26AA7CBF9889@aol.com> Message-ID: <906682385.60352749.1575140494131.JavaMail.zimbra@telenet.be> Phill, Mordy Dunst made the plain copper gaskets for me, together with steel O-rings. I asked him to NOT make the coolant passages in the gaskets. That's the reason why it took so long to notice that my cylinderhead has fewer passages! I think I'm going to drill the missing holes in the cylinderhead (and in the gasket!). Teri Ann, I would have to drill from beneath toward the water passage in the bottom left of your picture : it seems not to be very delicate. Probably the casting is the same for earlier and later cylinderheads, only the drillings and machining are different? The holes I have to drill are in line with the holes for the studs and the TR6 cyl head is similar with the picture. Marcel Van: "Phil Gott" Aan: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" Cc: "van mulders marcel" , "fot" Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 18:54:39 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads Make certain that the gasket also has the accommodating holes! Sent from my iPhone On Nov 30, 2019, at 11:56 AM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot wrote: BQ_BEGIN BQ_END On 11/30/19 9:08 AM, [ mailto:van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be | van.mulders.marcel at telenet.be ] wrote: BQ_BEGIN That's interesting and may well be the reason. The passages (the one in my cylinderhead and the 6 holes in the other head) have a diameter of about 12mm). So these passages are facing the block and are located precisely beneath the exhaust ports. My cylinderhead has all the work done, so I'd rather add these passages than searching for another cylinderhead. Marcel BQ_END There are usually thin walls between water passages and exhaust passage ways and the spaces around the combustion chambers follow curves. It is not just a straight drilled hole. I suggest you chalk up your existing head as practice and start again with an earlier head. TeriAnn BQ_BEGIN ----- Oorspronkelijk bericht ----- Van: "fot" [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | ] Aan: "fot" [ mailto:fot at autox.team.net | ] Verzonden: Zaterdag 30 november 2019 16:50:06 Onderwerp: Re: [Fot] TR6 cylinderheads Comparing the cylinderhead of this engine with another 6 cylinder head (probably also from a TR6 , but from a?? Triumph saloon is also possible) : it turns out that my cylinderhead is lacking 5 coolant passages. My cylinderhead has only a passage just beneath outlet port no 6. The other cylinderhead has passages beneath every outlet port. I didn't know of this difference?? between 6 cylinder heads. Just a WAG. In the late 1960s and 1970s SMOG regulations were kicking in. One of the first things that manufacturers did was have their engines run hotter. Some manufacturers accomplished that by reducing coolant flow through cylinder heads, reducing passage size and/ or eliminating cooling passages. My WAG is that you have a late TR6 head intended for the US or just California market. I suggest going shopping for an earlier head that still has all the passages. TeriAnn Who knows nothing about TR6 heads BQ_END _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: