[Fot] Main Cap Fasteners and Clutches - 1300

[tr4racing at googlemail.com]

The thing with concentric slaves sitting in the bell housing is often, that they get also oil from leaking engines or leaking gearboxes.

Most slaves die from getting in contact with oil, rarely than with brake fluid.

 

Cheers

Chris

 

 

Von: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> Im Auftrag von Phil Gott via Fot
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 2. April 2020 13:44
An: Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com>
Cc: 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Main Cap Fasteners and Clutches - 1300

 

To add to what Jim said: if you go the Quartermaster route, use the Quartermaster hydraulic fluid. They say any DOT 3 or 4 fluid will work, but it ain’t so. Some brake fluids will attack the rubber in the Quartermaster slave cylinder (see photo). I have compared the Quartermaster fluid with regular DOT 3 and 4 fluid and can tell you it is a BUNCH slipperier. The slave works much more smoothly.


BTW this is a Quartermaster 721 series concentric slave and throwout bearing.

Phil Gott

 

 

Sent from my iPhone





On Apr 1, 2020, at 9:42 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

I can tell you the size for the GT6 bits, if they are the same.  

Studs are 7/16” x3-1/2” overall length, 20TPI. 

My ARP box is marked 206-5404 Triumph TR7 main stud kit.

 

On Apr 1, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Brad Eells via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net> > wrote:

 

Hello Amici,

 

Thinking aloud here as I have time on my hands. A couple of questions:

 

1. Main cap fasteners - ARP  does not make a main stud kit for the Spifire 1300 and does not list their studs by size either. If you have an ARP stud and nut set up, how did you order it? They have readily available a 7/16"x3" bolt for direct replacement of the OEM bolt.

 

2. Clutches - the vintage set up in my engines are a lightened factory flywheel, coming up just under 13 lbs with ring gear and a Borg & Beck clutch disc and plate. I've run 3 race weekends with the clutch that has been in the car for 43 years, so far without issue. I'm thinking I would like to stick with the flywheel I have with a good clutch solution. 

 

I know this one is a bit of a can of worms but have at it with your valued thoughts. I'm looking for simple and reliable. I am not nearly as smart as the aeronautical engineer that built the car.

 

I hope you are all safe and well...

 

Cheers,

 

 

Brad




Brad Eells

Chino CA

#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3

#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4

1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!



 

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