From rick.parent at att.net  Sat Jan  1 08:10:29 2022
From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent)
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2022 15:10:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open
 Differential
In-Reply-To: <CAB2OWxufhZYHorgh31SCbvtVr5ibXizPcOTQUJUMMG8A7YeWxw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB2OWxs3iRdrsbZhuCfJek9QT8+wyt_XQ0jQOk4F8=eSwZEMVg@mail.gmail.com>
 <b0b7a47d-84c7-4b83-bd5b-978142a85ac8@email.android.com>
 <CAB2OWxufhZYHorgh31SCbvtVr5ibXizPcOTQUJUMMG8A7YeWxw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <215617581.657840.1641049829714@mail.yahoo.com>

I like them much better than the welded diff, I made 10 sets with more side load pressure than the TC and sell them for $250. The only problem is, I won't be able to access any for a year or two. So I guess it wasn't even worth mentioning I suppose, haha.
Spit / Gt6 Syncro's, T minus two weeks and counting.
Rick Parent
"Doing the right thing is always the right thing, regardless of consequences"
 

    On Friday, December 31, 2021, 07:01:55 PM EST, Sean Alexander via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Thanks for the great feedback
Figured the concept was limited (ha-ha).? ?Hadn't?seen the concept?before and was intrigued to hear some feedback.? Normally there are no cheap short cuts for stuff like this.?Happy New Year!
Regards,Sean AlexanderAREthe-vintage-racer.com


On Fri, Dec 31, 2021 at 5:46 PM <tedtsimx at bright.net> wrote:

Take,-off on Phantom Grip. Very similar to being "slightly pregnant".? Happy New Year to all. Ted
On Dec 31, 2021 5:48 PM, Sean Alexander via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

Has anyone tried the Traction Concepts limited Slip conversion?for an open differential??
We are intrigued by the simplicity and also price.? ?There are a couple youtube videos on the following?link.?
https://www.tractionconcepts.com/Triumph-TR4-Limited-Slip-LSD-Kit-p/tcxtr4342.htm

Regards,Sean AlexanderAREthe-vintage-racer.com









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From john.r.davies at btinternet.com  Sat Jan  1 13:52:38 2022
From: john.r.davies at btinternet.com (JOHN DAVIES)
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2022 20:52:38 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 105, Issue 1
In-Reply-To: <mailman.0.1641063602.11937.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.0.1641063602.11937.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <499ecaec.242f2.17e176a7105.Webtop.94@btinternet.com>


  I've found that a Quaife ATB works week without the disadvantages.







Sent via BT Email App



From: fot-request at autox.team.net

Sent: 1 January 2022 19:00:02 GMT

To: fot at autox.team.net

Subject: Fot Digest, Vol 105, Issue 1



Send Fot mailing list submissions to

  fot at autox.team.net



  To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit

  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot 
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot>

  or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to

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  You can reach the person managing the list at

  fot-owner at autox.team.net



  When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific

  than "Re: Contents of Fot digest..."


  Today's Topics:



  ?? 1. Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open

  ????? Differential (Sean Alexander)

  ?? 2. Re: Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open

  ????? Differential (marty sukey)

  ?? 3. Re: Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open

  ????? Differential (Jason Sukey)

  ?? 4. Re: Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open

  ????? Differential (tr4racing at googlemail.com)

  ?? 5. Re: Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open

  ????? Differential (tedtsimx at bright.net)

  ?? 6. Re: Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open

  ????? Differential (Sean Alexander)

  ?? 7. Re: Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open

  ????? Differential (Rick Parent)


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From jhasty at mhc-law.com  Sat Jan  1 13:59:00 2022
From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty)
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2022 20:59:00 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 105, Issue 1
In-Reply-To: <499ecaec.242f2.17e176a7105.Webtop.94@btinternet.com>
References: <mailman.0.1641063602.11937.fot@autox.team.net>
 <499ecaec.242f2.17e176a7105.Webtop.94@btinternet.com>
Message-ID: <49880AF3-97E5-4D5A-9701-15ACA13CDEF2@mhc-law.com>

The Quaife replacement discs fit my old Salsbury limited slip just fine... adjustable... no push... the way to go in my humble opinion

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 1, 2022, at 3:53 PM, JOHN DAVIES via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

? I've found that a Quaife ATB works week without the disadvantages.



Sent via BT Email App


From: fot-request at autox.team.net
Sent: 1 January 2022 19:00:02 GMT
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Fot Digest, Vol 105, Issue 1

Send Fot mailing list submissions to
fot at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
fot-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
fot-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Fot digest..."
________________________________
Today's Topics:

   1. Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open
      Differential (Sean Alexander)
   2. Re: Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open
      Differential (marty sukey)
   3. Re: Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open
      Differential (Jason Sukey)
   4. Re: Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open
      Differential (tr4racing at googlemail.com)
   5. Re: Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open
      Differential (tedtsimx at bright.net)
   6. Re: Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open
      Differential (Sean Alexander)
   7. Re: Traction Concepts Limited Slip Conversion for Open
      Differential (Rick Parent)
________________________________
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From bownes at seiri.com  Sat Jan  1 14:45:24 2022
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes -Seiri)
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2022 16:45:24 -0500
Subject: [Fot] GT6 center dash section
Message-ID: <B4ADEB44-4D22-4F30-B523-17ACEFD89EB3@seiri.com>


Anyone doing a restoration on a GT6?

I have a decent, needs refinishing, but all the veneer is good dash section that is going to go into the trash if no one wants it. Complete with defroster switch. 

Bob

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From walt at hot-tr6.com  Sat Jan  1 18:32:18 2022
From: walt at hot-tr6.com (walt at hot-tr6.com)
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2022 18:32:18 -0700
Subject: [Fot] FW: COTA Nov 7, 2021
In-Reply-To: <01f801d7ff4e$3c8a0850$b59e18f0$@hot-tr6.com>
References: <CY4PR05MB2806687B4D3019084400D147E5479@CY4PR05MB2806.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
 <01f801d7ff4e$3c8a0850$b59e18f0$@hot-tr6.com>
Message-ID: <008001d7ff78$95584f30$c008ed90$@hot-tr6.com>

 

 

From: walt at hot-tr6.com <walt at hot-tr6.com> 

Subject: FW: COTA Nov 7, 2021

 

 

 

From: Walter Hollowell <outlook_0C4E75D11F9E0D50 at outlook.com
<mailto:outlook_0C4E75D11F9E0D50 at outlook.com> > 
Sent: Saturday, January 1, 2022 12:59 PM
To: walt at hot-tr6.com <mailto:walt at hot-tr6.com> 
Subject: COTA Nov 7, 2021

 

https://youtu.be/a-jNbMvz3CE

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows

 

Racing my 1970 Triumph TR6 with SVRA in Group 8 Class GT

 

Walter Hollowell

 

 

 

 


 
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_cam
paign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 

Virus-free.
<http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_cam
paign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> www.avg.com 

 



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
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From bownes at seiri.com  Mon Jan  3 13:55:18 2022
From: bownes at seiri.com (robert bownes)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 15:55:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
Message-ID: <CAJ1+nOTNh6tpct=-v_b3XX=DTMt9X-Nd8BDysQd=n8aVYzOpxA@mail.gmail.com>

Wise(ned) ones,

Where are folks getting (street) Al radiators nowadays? Just got the
original TR6 rad back from the local radiator shop with an estimate of
~$360 to re-core, re-cap the lower end, and get rid of all the acorns the
squirrels have thoughtfully stashed in mine, so I figure it's probably
cheaper to get a new Al one than press my luck with the original.

I found 3 row versions for a bit under $200, but they don't seem to know
much about Triumphs (the pictures have the inlet/outlet pointing in the
wrong directions) so I figured I'd check here...

Stay fast!
Bob
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From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com  Mon Jan  3 14:05:22 2022
From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 21:05:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1+nOTNh6tpct=-v_b3XX=DTMt9X-Nd8BDysQd=n8aVYzOpxA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1+nOTNh6tpct=-v_b3XX=DTMt9X-Nd8BDysQd=n8aVYzOpxA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1616065748.1219017.1641243922719@mail.yahoo.com>

 There are a bunch of answers here, but a lot of TR6 crowd buys them from Wizard Radiator (www.wizardcooling.com)
There's a guy on the Triumphs list - Art Lipp - that sells the Wizards at a discount.
My one concern about aluminium radiators is that most of the time you can't fix them, so if you crack them, it's in the bin for 'em. Copper / brass is more forgiving. Ally does have the "wow" factor, though.
c ya,rml

    On Monday, January 3, 2022, 03:55:59 PM EST, robert bownes via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 
Wise(ned) ones,
Where are folks getting (street) Al radiators nowadays? Just got the original TR6 rad back from the local radiator shop with an estimate of ~$360 to re-core, re-cap the lower end, and get rid of all the acorns the squirrels have thoughtfully stashed in mine, so I figure it's probably cheaper to get a new Al one than press my luck with the original. 

I found 3 row versions for a bit under $200, but they don't seem to know much about Triumphs (the pictures have the inlet/outlet pointing in the wrong directions) so I figured I'd check here...
Stay fast!Bob


_______________________________________________
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From nicholsondustin at yahoo.com  Mon Jan  3 14:10:54 2022
From: nicholsondustin at yahoo.com (dustin nicholson)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 21:10:54 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1+nOTNh6tpct=-v_b3XX=DTMt9X-Nd8BDysQd=n8aVYzOpxA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1+nOTNh6tpct=-v_b3XX=DTMt9X-Nd8BDysQd=n8aVYzOpxA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2092030716.1220905.1641244254160@mail.yahoo.com>

 I've bought my share of cheap ones online, you get what you pay for I guess.? The one I got for the Stag was cheap and had to be shimmed and a mounting hole moved over 1/4" to make it fit.? The TR6 one was a more expensive/reputable vendor but still sprung a leak after about 5 years in a seam location that can't be fixed, so I'm about to replace it again.? For the price of these things I've come to expect minor fitment issues and a limited life span.? My best aftermarket radiator was a plastic tank cross flow for the Spitfire racercar, out of a Ford Escort.? If there is a good brand of aluminum ones out there I'd like to know it.? In the meantime I will keep buying cheap ones and consider it a consumable item.
Dusty Nicholson1957 TR3 EP #43
    On Monday, January 3, 2022, 02:56:20 PM CST, robert bownes via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 
Wise(ned) ones,
Where are folks getting (street) Al radiators nowadays? Just got the original TR6 rad back from the local radiator shop with an estimate of ~$360 to re-core, re-cap the lower end, and get rid of all the acorns the squirrels have thoughtfully stashed in mine, so I figure it's probably cheaper to get a new Al one than press my luck with the original. 

I found 3 row versions for a bit under $200, but they don't seem to know much about Triumphs (the pictures have the inlet/outlet pointing in the wrong directions) so I figured I'd check here...
Stay fast!Bob


_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

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From rek46 at aol.com  Mon Jan  3 14:14:22 2022
From: rek46 at aol.com (rek46)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 21:14:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1+nOTNh6tpct=-v_b3XX=DTMt9X-Nd8BDysQd=n8aVYzOpxA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1+nOTNh6tpct=-v_b3XX=DTMt9X-Nd8BDysQd=n8aVYzOpxA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <260079659.1210254.1641244462550@mail.yahoo.com>

Contact? DeWitts Radiator..PHONE .517 548 -0600....Howell, Michigan? 48843

In a message dated 1/3/2022 3:56:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes:....make anything you want.?
?Wise(ned) ones,?Where are folks getting (street) Al radiators nowadays? Just got the original TR6 rad back from the local radiator shop with an estimate of ~$360 to re-core, re-cap the lower end, and get rid of all the acorns the squirrels have thoughtfully stashed in mine, so I figure it's probably cheaper to get a new Al one than press my luck with the original. ?I found 3 row versions for a bit under $200, but they don't seem to know much about Triumphs (the pictures have the inlet/outlet pointing in the wrong directions) so I figured I'd check here...?Stay fast!Bob???_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Jan  3 15:00:40 2022
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 17:00:40 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
In-Reply-To: <1616065748.1219017.1641243922719@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAJ1+nOTNh6tpct=-v_b3XX=DTMt9X-Nd8BDysQd=n8aVYzOpxA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1616065748.1219017.1641243922719@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C990542A-E172-4574-81C7-16B29308EDDB@me.com>

I got a custom radiator for the GT6 from Wizard a few months ago, and it is really beautiful craftsmanship.  I had them duplicate the dimensions of one I got twelve years ago from an outfit that went out of business.  They copied it perfectly. About a 6-8 week leadtime, maybe less if you are getting off-the-shelf.

I will say that I?d had the prior one repaired a few times - they can be welded or sealed depending on where the damage is.  The last time I did some serious damage to it, so it was truly irreparable.

Much, much lighter than stock, too.

Scott

On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:05 PM, Robert Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

There are a bunch of answers here, but a lot of TR6 crowd buys them from Wizard Radiator (www.wizardcooling.com)

There's a guy on the Triumphs list - Art Lipp - that sells the Wizards at a discount.

My one concern about aluminium radiators is that most of the time you can't fix them, so if you crack them, it's in the bin for 'em. Copper / brass is more forgiving. Ally does have the "wow" factor, though.

c ya,
rml

On Monday, January 3, 2022, 03:55:59 PM EST, robert bownes via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:



Wise(ned) ones,

Where are folks getting (street) Al radiators nowadays? Just got the original TR6 rad back from the local radiator shop with an estimate of ~$360 to re-core, re-cap the lower end, and get rid of all the acorns the squirrels have thoughtfully stashed in mine, so I figure it's probably cheaper to get a new Al one than press my luck with the original. 

I found 3 row versions for a bit under $200, but they don't seem to know much about Triumphs (the pictures have the inlet/outlet pointing in the wrong directions) so I figured I'd check here...

Stay fast!
Bob



_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>

http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/>

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Jan  3 15:00:45 2022
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 15:00:45 -0700
Subject: [Fot] SCCA Time Trial car rules and Swamp cooler info
Message-ID: <B768C6AB-8539-468D-8C0F-16C219CBBA37@comcast.net>

Listerati,

After wading through 53 pages of the 727 pages of SCCA GCR regs I thought I?d see if someone knew where I can more easily find a list of what?s allowed and/or not allowed on cars racing in SCCA Time Trials. I?m trying to figure out how close I am to being able to run with my current setup.

Thanks
Bud

P.S. For those VTR members that saw the swamp cooler article in the latest VTR magazine there?s one important bit of info that needs clarification. The size of the tubing that attaches to the scuttle vent is 5/32? x 014 brass tubing, not 1/2? pipe. 1/2? would drain your windshield water reservoir pretty quick. :)

If anyone decides to do the swamp cooler modification and wants more details/pictures contact me.

From paulricco at att.net  Mon Jan  3 15:18:02 2022
From: paulricco at att.net (Paul Ricco)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 16:18:02 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
In-Reply-To: <C990542A-E172-4574-81C7-16B29308EDDB@me.com>
References: <C990542A-E172-4574-81C7-16B29308EDDB@me.com>
Message-ID: <A363B430-E2BE-4278-A9F2-21A418392B6C@att.net>

FOT,

We have good experiences with Wizard as well. They have been reliable and the quality is very good.  As some people feel that oil coolers are a consumable a item, our research indicates the same may be true for aluminum radiators in cars with cast iron blocks. There are things that can be done to help them live for years. However, they eventually need to be replaced due to the relationship of cast iron, aluminum, water and electrical current. 

Also, I would say NEVER run any type of coolant stop leak product with an aluminum radiator, especially with an iron block. You will plug the radiator very-very quickly.  Not to mention the mess the stops leaks product makes where your block and head ports are supposed to be able to move coolant.  If you are swapping fluids, find the leak and fix it correctly. 

I am on year 5 with the last wizard that I purchased and it is still doing good. 

Paul Ricco

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:01 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?I got a custom radiator for the GT6 from Wizard a few months ago, and it is really beautiful craftsmanship.  I had them duplicate the dimensions of one I got twelve years ago from an outfit that went out of business.  They copied it perfectly. About a 6-8 week leadtime, maybe less if you are getting off-the-shelf.
> 
> I will say that I?d had the prior one repaired a few times - they can be welded or sealed depending on where the damage is.  The last time I did some serious damage to it, so it was truly irreparable.
> 
> Much, much lighter than stock, too.
> 
> Scott
> 
> On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:05 PM, Robert Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> There are a bunch of answers here, but a lot of TR6 crowd buys them from Wizard Radiator (www.wizardcooling.com)
> 
> There's a guy on the Triumphs list - Art Lipp - that sells the Wizards at a discount.
> 
> My one concern about aluminium radiators is that most of the time you can't fix them, so if you crack them, it's in the bin for 'em. Copper / brass is more forgiving. Ally does have the "wow" factor, though.
> 
> c ya,
> rml
> 
> On Monday, January 3, 2022, 03:55:59 PM EST, robert bownes via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Wise(ned) ones,
> 
> Where are folks getting (street) Al radiators nowadays? Just got the original TR6 rad back from the local radiator shop with an estimate of ~$360 to re-core, re-cap the lower end, and get rid of all the acorns the squirrels have thoughtfully stashed in mine, so I figure it's probably cheaper to get a new Al one than press my luck with the original. 
> 
> I found 3 row versions for a bit under $200, but they don't seem to know much about Triumphs (the pictures have the inlet/outlet pointing in the wrong directions) so I figured I'd check here...
> 
> Stay fast!
> Bob
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Jan  3 15:24:04 2022
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 17:24:04 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 door trim
Message-ID: <2024E3A3-F22D-402A-8E51-EB0BA234A751@me.com>

ok, so it?s not a race car question, but I? trying to finish up work on my 1970 street tr6 so that I can get to the race car. 
I stripped the doors down to have them repainted and am now putting them back together.
At the top of the doors, on the inside between the window seal and the door panel, there was foam-backed black vinyl glued on and with lower edge tucked behind the door panel and upper edge behind the window seal.
It?s in bad shape and I need to replace it.  I may just end up getting some vinyl and foam but I?m trying to figure out what?s correct.

Moss shows a piece for the earlier cars with a molded-in handle.  Mine didn?t have that. door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-015 <https://mossmotors.com/door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-015>
The later cars show door top capping - looks more like what I had, but looks like it?s a rigid piece.  door-top-capping-right <https://mossmotors.com/door-top-capping-right>

What?s correct?  At the moment, I just have nicely painted body color sheet metal between the door panel and the window seal, looks kind of nice but out of place with no other exposed metal in the car.

Scott


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From tony at tonydrews.com  Mon Jan  3 15:24:44 2022
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 16:24:44 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Race videos from Elkhart in Sept
Message-ID: <670b9eca-6c41-b0b7-d420-6f941a69abe1@tonydrews.com>

Got behind on my video editing.? Got the Elkhart Lake Vintage Festival 
ones done over the long weekend.? For those who like these, here they are.

Saturday Sprint (uneventful, first lap or two is best)

https://youtu.be/m1LTrgITfRE

Sunday Feature (a bit more fun, but after first couple of laps not much 
dicing)

https://youtu.be/lYY7HgDbPms

Sunday Sheldon Cup - mixed group, cars of similar speed (best battles of 
the weekend, but camera started to point skyward so last lap or two is 
weird).? Fun battle with a couple of Miatas.

https://youtu.be/0TTHwj32SXw

Regards, Tony Drews


From rocky at spitfire4.com  Mon Jan  3 15:30:41 2022
From: rocky at spitfire4.com (rocky spitfire4.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 22:30:41 +0000
Subject: [Fot] SCCA Time Trial car rules and Swamp cooler info
In-Reply-To: <B768C6AB-8539-468D-8C0F-16C219CBBA37@comcast.net>
References: <B768C6AB-8539-468D-8C0F-16C219CBBA37@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BYAPR05MB6405D157C7562B43DC66948DEB499@BYAPR05MB6405.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>

You may find SCC Time Trials is largely run what ya brung. While there are categories and classes, assuming you're not bringing a Formula car, there's someplace for your hot rod to slot into.

"Time Trials?first and foremost?is about the quest for speed. This is a place for mechanical creativity, driver development and envelope pushing. There is no room here for balance of performance, spec classes or slowing down the fast to make a better show."

Check these links:
? timetrials.scca.com
And under the header "What Is TT?"
? timetrials.scca.com/pages/philosophy
? timetrials.scca.com/pages/safety

--Rocky Entriken

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bud Rolofson via Fot
Sent: Monday, January 3, 2022 4:01 PM
To: FOT <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] SCCA Time Trial car rules and Swamp cooler info

Listerati,

After wading through 53 pages of the 727 pages of SCCA GCR regs I thought I?d see if someone knew where I can more easily find a list of what?s allowed and/or not allowed on cars racing in SCCA Time Trials. I?m trying to figure out how close I am to being able to run with my current setup.

Thanks
Bud

P.S. For those VTR members that saw the swamp cooler article in the latest VTR magazine there?s one important bit of info that needs clarification. The size of the tubing that attaches to the scuttle vent is 5/32? x 014 brass tubing, not 1/2? pipe. 1/2? would drain your windshield water reservoir pretty quick. :)

If anyone decides to do the swamp cooler modification and wants more details/pictures contact me.
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Mon Jan  3 17:18:27 2022
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (Dave Hogye)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 16:18:27 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
In-Reply-To: <A363B430-E2BE-4278-A9F2-21A418392B6C@att.net>
References: <A363B430-E2BE-4278-A9F2-21A418392B6C@att.net>
Message-ID: <5344EDDE-DE84-48AE-8A79-B0A7C6C0F7D6@comcast.net>

I have been using a Griffin aluminum radiator for over 8 years now.  Also, nicely made and good fit in my TR3.  I ordered it with a shroud and puller fan. $700 total.  Radiator only, $500. 
They will build custom. I ordered mine without the problematic or crack prone factory style extended filler neck. I fill it from an expansion tank. 
Dave H.


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 3, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?FOT,
> 
> We have good experiences with Wizard as well. They have been reliable and the quality is very good.  As some people feel that oil coolers are a consumable a item, our research indicates the same may be true for aluminum radiators in cars with cast iron blocks. There are things that can be done to help them live for years. However, they eventually need to be replaced due to the relationship of cast iron, aluminum, water and electrical current. 
> 
> Also, I would say NEVER run any type of coolant stop leak product with an aluminum radiator, especially with an iron block. You will plug the radiator very-very quickly.  Not to mention the mess the stops leaks product makes where your block and head ports are supposed to be able to move coolant.  If you are swapping fluids, find the leak and fix it correctly. 
> 
> I am on year 5 with the last wizard that I purchased and it is still doing good. 
> 
> Paul Ricco
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:01 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?I got a custom radiator for the GT6 from Wizard a few months ago, and it is really beautiful craftsmanship.  I had them duplicate the dimensions of one I got twelve years ago from an outfit that went out of business.  They copied it perfectly. About a 6-8 week leadtime, maybe less if you are getting off-the-shelf.
>> 
>> I will say that I?d had the prior one repaired a few times - they can be welded or sealed depending on where the damage is.  The last time I did some serious damage to it, so it was truly irreparable.
>> 
>> Much, much lighter than stock, too.
>> 
>> Scott
>> 
>> On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:05 PM, Robert Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> There are a bunch of answers here, but a lot of TR6 crowd buys them from Wizard Radiator (www.wizardcooling.com)
>> 
>> There's a guy on the Triumphs list - Art Lipp - that sells the Wizards at a discount.
>> 
>> My one concern about aluminium radiators is that most of the time you can't fix them, so if you crack them, it's in the bin for 'em. Copper / brass is more forgiving. Ally does have the "wow" factor, though.
>> 
>> c ya,
>> rml
>> 
>> On Monday, January 3, 2022, 03:55:59 PM EST, robert bownes via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Wise(ned) ones,
>> 
>> Where are folks getting (street) Al radiators nowadays? Just got the original TR6 rad back from the local radiator shop with an estimate of ~$360 to re-core, re-cap the lower end, and get rid of all the acorns the squirrels have thoughtfully stashed in mine, so I figure it's probably cheaper to get a new Al one than press my luck with the original. 
>> 
>> I found 3 row versions for a bit under $200, but they don't seem to know much about Triumphs (the pictures have the inlet/outlet pointing in the wrong directions) so I figured I'd check here...
>> 
>> Stay fast!
>> Bob
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/paulricco at att.net
>> 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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From jhasty at mhc-law.com  Mon Jan  3 18:12:09 2022
From: jhasty at mhc-law.com (John H. Hasty)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 01:12:09 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
In-Reply-To: <5344EDDE-DE84-48AE-8A79-B0A7C6C0F7D6@comcast.net>
References: <A363B430-E2BE-4278-A9F2-21A418392B6C@att.net>
 <5344EDDE-DE84-48AE-8A79-B0A7C6C0F7D6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <10CF78E5-27C7-4D48-A839-D97B1C8A675C@mhc-law.com>

We get ours custom made without filler neck ... side hoses... etc from Howe... $ 350 +\-

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 3, 2022, at 7:21 PM, Dave Hogye via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

? I have been using a Griffin aluminum radiator for over 8 years now.  Also, nicely made and good fit in my TR3.  I ordered it with a shroud and puller fan. $700 total.  Radiator only, $500.
They will build custom. I ordered mine without the problematic or crack prone factory style extended filler neck. I fill it from an expansion tank.
Dave H.


Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 3, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

?FOT,

We have good experiences with Wizard as well. They have been reliable and the quality is very good.  As some people feel that oil coolers are a consumable a item, our research indicates the same may be true for aluminum radiators in cars with cast iron blocks. There are things that can be done to help them live for years. However, they eventually need to be replaced due to the relationship of cast iron, aluminum, water and electrical current.

Also, I would say NEVER run any type of coolant stop leak product with an aluminum radiator, especially with an iron block. You will plug the radiator very-very quickly.  Not to mention the mess the stops leaks product makes where your block and head ports are supposed to be able to move coolant.  If you are swapping fluids, find the leak and fix it correctly.

I am on year 5 with the last wizard that I purchased and it is still doing good.

Paul Ricco

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:01 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

?I got a custom radiator for the GT6 from Wizard a few months ago, and it is really beautiful craftsmanship.  I had them duplicate the dimensions of one I got twelve years ago from an outfit that went out of business.  They copied it perfectly. About a 6-8 week leadtime, maybe less if you are getting off-the-shelf.

I will say that I?d had the prior one repaired a few times - they can be welded or sealed depending on where the damage is.  The last time I did some serious damage to it, so it was truly irreparable.

Much, much lighter than stock, too.

Scott

On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:05 PM, Robert Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:

There are a bunch of answers here, but a lot of TR6 crowd buys them from Wizard Radiator (www.wizardcooling.com<http://www.wizardcooling.com>)

There's a guy on the Triumphs list - Art Lipp - that sells the Wizards at a discount.

My one concern about aluminium radiators is that most of the time you can't fix them, so if you crack them, it's in the bin for 'em. Copper / brass is more forgiving. Ally does have the "wow" factor, though.

c ya,
rml

On Monday, January 3, 2022, 03:55:59 PM EST, robert bownes via Fot <fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:



Wise(ned) ones,

Where are folks getting (street) Al radiators nowadays? Just got the original TR6 rad back from the local radiator shop with an estimate of ~$360 to re-core, re-cap the lower end, and get rid of all the acorns the squirrels have thoughtfully stashed in mine, so I figure it's probably cheaper to get a new Al one than press my luck with the original.

I found 3 row versions for a bit under $200, but they don't seem to know much about Triumphs (the pictures have the inlet/outlet pointing in the wrong directions) so I figured I'd check here...

Stay fast!
Bob



_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net<mailto:fot at autox.team.net>

http://www.fot-racing.com<http://www.fot-racing.com/>

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From terrysopher at gmail.com  Mon Jan  3 18:24:08 2022
From: terrysopher at gmail.com (Terry Sopher)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 20:24:08 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 door trim
In-Reply-To: <2024E3A3-F22D-402A-8E51-EB0BA234A751@me.com>
References: <2024E3A3-F22D-402A-8E51-EB0BA234A751@me.com>
Message-ID: <49D6B557-906E-475A-80CD-8001871CEF53@gmail.com>

Scott - TRF has the correct door top vinyl padded covers and the required clips?and tool to seat the clips.

> On Jan 3, 2022, at 17:24, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?ok, so it?s not a race car question, but I? trying to finish up work on my 1970 street tr6 so that I can get to the race car. 
> I stripped the doors down to have them repainted and am now putting them back together.
> At the top of the doors, on the inside between the window seal and the door panel, there was foam-backed black vinyl glued on and with lower edge tucked behind the door panel and upper edge behind the window seal.
> It?s in bad shape and I need to replace it.  I may just end up getting some vinyl and foam but I?m trying to figure out what?s correct.
> 
> Moss shows a piece for the earlier cars with a molded-in handle.  Mine didn?t have that. door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-015
> The later cars show door top capping - looks more like what I had, but looks like it?s a rigid piece.  door-top-capping-right
> 
> What?s correct?  At the moment, I just have nicely painted body color sheet metal between the door panel and the window seal, looks kind of nice but out of place with no other exposed metal in the car.
> 
> Scott
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From charly at mitchelplumbing.com  Mon Jan  3 19:21:02 2022
From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 20:21:02 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR6 door trim
Message-ID: <61221.1641262862@mitchelplumbing.com>

So what I did on my TR6 racecar is installed a https://mossmotors.com/handle-door-pull-chrome?assoc=41364 , the holes are in the door, just need to install a couple of 
https://mossmotors.com/spire-nut-handle-screw?assoc=41366 and use https://mossmotors.com/screw-handle-to-door?assoc=41365

I know its non-original, but makes sense for early TR6's

Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44

On Mon 03/01/22  5:24 PM , Terry Sopher via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent:
> Scott - TRF has the correct door top vinyl padded covers and the
> required clips?and tool to seat the clips.
> On Jan 3, 2022, at 17:24, Scott Janzen via Fot  wrote:
> 
> ? ok, so it?s not a race car question, but I? trying to finish
> up work on my 1970 street tr6 so that I can get to the race car. I
> stripped the doors down to have them repainted and am now putting them
> back together.At the top of the doors, on the inside between the
> window seal and the door panel, there was foam-backed black vinyl
> glued on and with lower edge tucked behind the door panel and upper
> edge behind the window seal.It?s in bad shape and I need to replace
> it.  I may just end up getting some vinyl and foam but I?m trying to
> figure out what?s correct. 
> Moss shows a piece for the earlier cars with a molded-in handle.  Mine
> didn?t have that.
> door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-015 [1]The later
> cars show door top capping - looks more like what I had, but looks
> like it?s a rigid piece.  door-top-capping-right [2] 
> What?s correct?  At the moment, I just have nicely painted body
> color sheet metal between the door panel and the window seal, looks
> kind of nice but out of place with no other exposed metal in the car.
> Scott
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/terrysopher at gmail.com
> 
> 
> Links:
> ------
> [1]
> https://mossmotors.com/door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-01
> 5[2] https://mossmotors.com/door-top-capping-right
> 
> 


From putinbaytr3 at yahoo.com  Mon Jan  3 20:07:56 2022
From: putinbaytr3 at yahoo.com (Rich Hahn)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 03:07:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] TR6 door trim
In-Reply-To: <61221.1641262862@mitchelplumbing.com>
References: <61221.1641262862@mitchelplumbing.com>
Message-ID: <389331910.1316706.1641265676241@mail.yahoo.com>

 I have put them on every TR I have had with the exception of my TR8.? TR3A, TR4A, TR6, GT6 and even my wife's Sunbeam Alpine!!!? They work and look good.? They used to be unavailable new so you had to search the swap meets for them.? I think they were only original on some 4A's but I might be wrong on that!!
    On Monday, January 3, 2022, 09:21:41 PM EST, Charly via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 So what I did on my TR6 racecar is installed a https://mossmotors.com/handle-door-pull-chrome?assoc=41364 , the holes are in the door, just need to install a couple of 
https://mossmotors.com/spire-nut-handle-screw?assoc=41366 and use https://mossmotors.com/screw-handle-to-door?assoc=41365

I know its non-original, but makes sense for early TR6's

Charly Mitchel
TR6 #44

On Mon 03/01/22? 5:24 PM , Terry Sopher via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent:
> Scott - TRF has the correct door top vinyl padded covers and the
> required clips?and tool to seat the clips.
> On Jan 3, 2022, at 17:24, Scott Janzen via Fot? wrote:
> 
> ? ok, so it?s not a race car question, but I? trying to finish
> up work on my 1970 street tr6 so that I can get to the race car. I
> stripped the doors down to have them repainted and am now putting them
> back together.At the top of the doors, on the inside between the
> window seal and the door panel, there was foam-backed black vinyl
> glued on and with lower edge tucked behind the door panel and upper
> edge behind the window seal.It?s in bad shape and I need to replace
> it.? I may just end up getting some vinyl and foam but I?m trying to
> figure out what?s correct. 
> Moss shows a piece for the earlier cars with a molded-in handle.? Mine
> didn?t have that.
> door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-015 [1]The later
> cars show door top capping - looks more like what I had, but looks
> like it?s a rigid piece.? door-top-capping-right [2] 
> What?s correct?? At the moment, I just have nicely painted body
> color sheet metal between the door panel and the window seal, looks
> kind of nice but out of place with no other exposed metal in the car.
> Scott
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/terrysopher at gmail.com
> 
> 
> Links:
> ------
> [1]
> https://mossmotors.com/door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-01
> 5[2] https://mossmotors.com/door-top-capping-right
> 
> 

_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

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From 4msonset at gmail.com  Mon Jan  3 21:34:41 2022
From: 4msonset at gmail.com (J Wagner)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2022 20:34:41 -0800
Subject: [Fot] TR6 door trim
In-Reply-To: <389331910.1316706.1641265676241@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <389331910.1316706.1641265676241@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <E7B97314-15F3-4370-87C2-2E60EB6C8F35@gmail.com>

some spitfires too.

> On Jan 3, 2022, at 7:08 PM, Rich Hahn via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I have put them on every TR I have had with the exception of my TR8.  TR3A, TR4A, TR6, GT6 and even my wife's Sunbeam Alpine!!!  They work and look good.  They used to be unavailable new so you had to search the swap meets for them.  I think they were only original on some 4A's but I might be wrong on that!!
> 
> On Monday, January 3, 2022, 09:21:41 PM EST, Charly via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> So what I did on my TR6 racecar is installed a https://mossmotors.com/handle-door-pull-chrome?assoc=41364 , the holes are in the door, just need to install a couple of 
> https://mossmotors.com/spire-nut-handle-screw?assoc=41366 and use https://mossmotors.com/screw-handle-to-door?assoc=41365
> 
> I know its non-original, but makes sense for early TR6's
> 
> Charly Mitchel
> TR6 #44
> 
> On Mon 03/01/22  5:24 PM , Terry Sopher via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent:
> > Scott - TRF has the correct door top vinyl padded covers and the
> > required clips?and tool to seat the clips.
> > On Jan 3, 2022, at 17:24, Scott Janzen via Fot  wrote:
> > 
> > ? ok, so it?s not a race car question, but I? trying to finish
> > up work on my 1970 street tr6 so that I can get to the race car. I
> > stripped the doors down to have them repainted and am now putting them
> > back together.At the top of the doors, on the inside between the
> > window seal and the door panel, there was foam-backed black vinyl
> > glued on and with lower edge tucked behind the door panel and upper
> > edge behind the window seal.It?s in bad shape and I need to replace
> > it.  I may just end up getting some vinyl and foam but I?m trying to
> > figure out what?s correct. 
> > Moss shows a piece for the earlier cars with a molded-in handle.  Mine
> > didn?t have that.
> > door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-015 [1]The later
> > cars show door top capping - looks more like what I had, but looks
> > like it?s a rigid piece.  door-top-capping-right [2] 
> > What?s correct?  At the moment, I just have nicely painted body
> > color sheet metal between the door panel and the window seal, looks
> > kind of nice but out of place with no other exposed metal in the car.
> > Scott
> > 
> > _______________________________________________
> > fot at autox.team.net
> > http://www.fot-racing.com
> > 
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive
> > http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/terrysopher at gmail.com
> > 
> > 
> > Links:
> > ------
> > [1]
> > https://mossmotors.com/door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-01
> > 5[2] https://mossmotors.com/door-top-capping-right
> > 
> > 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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> 
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From terrysopher at gmail.com  Tue Jan  4 05:45:44 2022
From: terrysopher at gmail.com (Terry Sopher)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 07:45:44 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 door trim
In-Reply-To: <E7B97314-15F3-4370-87C2-2E60EB6C8F35@gmail.com>
References: <E7B97314-15F3-4370-87C2-2E60EB6C8F35@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D0BD5B04-8AD3-4512-80BA-7AEFCBABE2CF@gmail.com>

Those handles were typical British Auto Manufacturers ?bin? parts used on a variety of makes/models besides Triumph.

They were used on TR4A and reportedly some early TR250s.  The holes are in the doors of TR250 & TR6 because the doors were essentially unchanged from TR4 to end of TR6 production.  

Using the handles on later cars than TR4As will prolong the life of the window capping.



> On Jan 3, 2022, at 23:38, J Wagner via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> some spitfires too.
> 
>>> On Jan 3, 2022, at 7:08 PM, Rich Hahn via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> I have put them on every TR I have had with the exception of my TR8.  TR3A, TR4A, TR6, GT6 and even my wife's Sunbeam Alpine!!!  They work and look good.  They used to be unavailable new so you had to search the swap meets for them.  I think they were only original on some 4A's but I might be wrong on that!!
>> 
>> On Monday, January 3, 2022, 09:21:41 PM EST, Charly via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> So what I did on my TR6 racecar is installed a https://mossmotors.com/handle-door-pull-chrome?assoc=41364 , the holes are in the door, just need to install a couple of 
>> https://mossmotors.com/spire-nut-handle-screw?assoc=41366 and use https://mossmotors.com/screw-handle-to-door?assoc=41365
>> 
>> I know its non-original, but makes sense for early TR6's
>> 
>> Charly Mitchel
>> TR6 #44
>> 
>> On Mon 03/01/22  5:24 PM , Terry Sopher via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent:
>> > Scott - TRF has the correct door top vinyl padded covers and the
>> > required clips?and tool to seat the clips.
>> > On Jan 3, 2022, at 17:24, Scott Janzen via Fot  wrote:
>> > 
>> > ? ok, so it?s not a race car question, but I? trying to finish
>> > up work on my 1970 street tr6 so that I can get to the race car. I
>> > stripped the doors down to have them repainted and am now putting them
>> > back together.At the top of the doors, on the inside between the
>> > window seal and the door panel, there was foam-backed black vinyl
>> > glued on and with lower edge tucked behind the door panel and upper
>> > edge behind the window seal.It?s in bad shape and I need to replace
>> > it.  I may just end up getting some vinyl and foam but I?m trying to
>> > figure out what?s correct. 
>> > Moss shows a piece for the earlier cars with a molded-in handle.  Mine
>> > didn?t have that.
>> > door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-015 [1]The later
>> > cars show door top capping - looks more like what I had, but looks
>> > like it?s a rigid piece.  door-top-capping-right [2] 
>> > What?s correct?  At the moment, I just have nicely painted body
>> > color sheet metal between the door panel and the window seal, looks
>> > kind of nice but out of place with no other exposed metal in the car.
>> > Scott
>> > 
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > fot at autox.team.net
>> > http://www.fot-racing.com
>> > 
>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive
>> > http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/terrysopher at gmail.com
>> > 
>> > 
>> > Links:
>> > ------
>> > [1]
>> > https://mossmotors.com/door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-01
>> > 5[2] https://mossmotors.com/door-top-capping-right
>> > 
>> > 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/putinbaytr3 at yahoo.com
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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> 
> 
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From ac at camoletti.ch  Tue Jan  4 05:57:04 2022
From: ac at camoletti.ch (Alexandre Camoletti)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 13:57:04 +0100
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
In-Reply-To: <10CF78E5-27C7-4D48-A839-D97B1C8A675C@mhc-law.com>
References: <A363B430-E2BE-4278-A9F2-21A418392B6C@att.net>
 <5344EDDE-DE84-48AE-8A79-B0A7C6C0F7D6@comcast.net>
 <10CF78E5-27C7-4D48-A839-D97B1C8A675C@mhc-law.com>
Message-ID: <004901d8016a$93a8e430$bafaac90$@camoletti.ch>

Amici, just a question, doesn?t copper dissipate heat better than aluminum ?

 

Alex Camoletti 

 

 

De : Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la part de John H. Hasty via Fot
Envoy? : mardi 4 janvier 2022 02:12
? : Dave Hogye
Cc : robert bownes; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Objet : Re: [Fot] Aluminium radiators

 

We get ours custom made without filler neck ... side hoses... etc from Howe... $ 350 +\-

Sent from my iPhone





On Jan 3, 2022, at 7:21 PM, Dave Hogye via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

? I have been using a Griffin aluminum radiator for over 8 years now.  Also, nicely made and good fit in my TR3.  I ordered it with a shroud and puller fan. $700 total.  Radiator only, $500.  

They will build custom. I ordered mine without the problematic or crack prone factory style extended filler neck. I fill it from an expansion tank. 

Dave H.

 

Sent from my iPhone





On Jan 3, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

?FOT, 

 

We have good experiences with Wizard as well. They have been reliable and the quality is very good.  As some people feel that oil coolers are a consumable a item, our research indicates the same may be true for aluminum radiators in cars with cast iron blocks. There are things that can be done to help them live for years. However, they eventually need to be replaced due to the relationship of cast iron, aluminum, water and electrical current.  

 

Also, I would say NEVER run any type of coolant stop leak product with an aluminum radiator, especially with an iron block. You will plug the radiator very-very quickly.  Not to mention the mess the stops leaks product makes where your block and head ports are supposed to be able to move coolant.  If you are swapping fluids, find the leak and fix it correctly. 

 

I am on year 5 with the last wizard that I purchased and it is still doing good. 

 

Paul Ricco

Sent from my iPhone





On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:01 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

?I got a custom radiator for the GT6 from Wizard a few months ago, and it is really beautiful craftsmanship.  I had them duplicate the dimensions of one I got twelve years ago from an outfit that went out of business.  They copied it perfectly. About a 6-8 week leadtime, maybe less if you are getting off-the-shelf. 

 

I will say that I?d had the prior one repaired a few times - they can be welded or sealed depending on where the damage is.  The last time I did some serious damage to it, so it was truly irreparable.

 

Much, much lighter than stock, too.

 

Scott

 

On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:05 PM, Robert Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

 

There are a bunch of answers here, but a lot of TR6 crowd buys them from Wizard Radiator (www.wizardcooling.com)

 

There's a guy on the Triumphs list - Art Lipp - that sells the Wizards at a discount.

 

My one concern about aluminium radiators is that most of the time you can't fix them, so if you crack them, it's in the bin for 'em. Copper / brass is more forgiving. Ally does have the "wow" factor, though.

 

c ya,

rml

 

On Monday, January 3, 2022, 03:55:59 PM EST, robert bownes via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote: 

 

 

 

Wise(ned) ones,

 

Where are folks getting (street) Al radiators nowadays? Just got the original TR6 rad back from the local radiator shop with an estimate of ~$360 to re-core, re-cap the lower end, and get rid of all the acorns the squirrels have thoughtfully stashed in mine, so I figure it's probably cheaper to get a new Al one than press my luck with the original. 

 

I found 3 row versions for a bit under $200, but they don't seem to know much about Triumphs (the pictures have the inlet/outlet pointing in the wrong directions) so I figured I'd check here...

 

Stay fast!

Bob

 

 

 

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com <http://www.fot-racing.com/> 

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From nicholsondustin at yahoo.com  Tue Jan  4 05:58:31 2022
From: nicholsondustin at yahoo.com (dustin nicholson)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 06:58:31 -0600
Subject: [Fot] TR6 door trim
In-Reply-To: <D0BD5B04-8AD3-4512-80BA-7AEFCBABE2CF@gmail.com>
References: <D0BD5B04-8AD3-4512-80BA-7AEFCBABE2CF@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <17FC3321-B447-4BA7-987E-14FAC4EAB3AB@yahoo.com>

If you?re asking what is Concourse correct for 1970 TR6 it is the black vinyl piece with the bumped out finger grip molded profile. Late cars did not have the finger grip.

Dustin Nicholson 
281-871-9623

> On Jan 4, 2022, at 6:46 AM, Terry Sopher via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Those handles were typical British Auto Manufacturers ?bin? parts used on a variety of makes/models besides Triumph.
> 
> They were used on TR4A and reportedly some early TR250s.  The holes are in the doors of TR250 & TR6 because the doors were essentially unchanged from TR4 to end of TR6 production.  
> 
> Using the handles on later cars than TR4As will prolong the life of the window capping.
> 
> 
> 
>>> On Jan 3, 2022, at 23:38, J Wagner via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> some spitfires too.
>> 
>>>> On Jan 3, 2022, at 7:08 PM, Rich Hahn via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>> 
>>> ?
>>> I have put them on every TR I have had with the exception of my TR8.  TR3A, TR4A, TR6, GT6 and even my wife's Sunbeam Alpine!!!  They work and look good.  They used to be unavailable new so you had to search the swap meets for them.  I think they were only original on some 4A's but I might be wrong on that!!
>>> 
>>> On Monday, January 3, 2022, 09:21:41 PM EST, Charly via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> So what I did on my TR6 racecar is installed a https://mossmotors.com/handle-door-pull-chrome?assoc=41364 , the holes are in the door, just need to install a couple of 
>>> https://mossmotors.com/spire-nut-handle-screw?assoc=41366 and use https://mossmotors.com/screw-handle-to-door?assoc=41365
>>> 
>>> I know its non-original, but makes sense for early TR6's
>>> 
>>> Charly Mitchel
>>> TR6 #44
>>> 
>>> On Mon 03/01/22  5:24 PM , Terry Sopher via Fot fot at autox.team.net sent:
>>> > Scott - TRF has the correct door top vinyl padded covers and the
>>> > required clips?and tool to seat the clips.
>>> > On Jan 3, 2022, at 17:24, Scott Janzen via Fot  wrote:
>>> > 
>>> > ? ok, so it?s not a race car question, but I? trying to finish
>>> > up work on my 1970 street tr6 so that I can get to the race car. I
>>> > stripped the doors down to have them repainted and am now putting them
>>> > back together.At the top of the doors, on the inside between the
>>> > window seal and the door panel, there was foam-backed black vinyl
>>> > glued on and with lower edge tucked behind the door panel and upper
>>> > edge behind the window seal.It?s in bad shape and I need to replace
>>> > it.  I may just end up getting some vinyl and foam but I?m trying to
>>> > figure out what?s correct. 
>>> > Moss shows a piece for the earlier cars with a molded-in handle.  Mine
>>> > didn?t have that.
>>> > door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-015 [1]The later
>>> > cars show door top capping - looks more like what I had, but looks
>>> > like it?s a rigid piece.  door-top-capping-right [2] 
>>> > What?s correct?  At the moment, I just have nicely painted body
>>> > color sheet metal between the door panel and the window seal, looks
>>> > kind of nice but out of place with no other exposed metal in the car.
>>> > Scott
>>> > 
>>> > _______________________________________________
>>> > fot at autox.team.net
>>> > http://www.fot-racing.com
>>> > 
>>> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> > Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> > http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/terrysopher at gmail.com
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> > Links:
>>> > ------
>>> > [1]
>>> > https://mossmotors.com/door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-01
>>> > 5[2] https://mossmotors.com/door-top-capping-right
>>> > 
>>> > 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> 
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/putinbaytr3 at yahoo.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> 
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com
>>> 
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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>> 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Jan  4 06:05:04 2022
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 05:05:04 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
In-Reply-To: <004901d8016a$93a8e430$bafaac90$@camoletti.ch>
References: <A363B430-E2BE-4278-A9F2-21A418392B6C@att.net>
 <5344EDDE-DE84-48AE-8A79-B0A7C6C0F7D6@comcast.net>
 <10CF78E5-27C7-4D48-A839-D97B1C8A675C@mhc-law.com>
 <004901d8016a$93a8e430$bafaac90$@camoletti.ch>
Message-ID: <9663cec5-7f11-d7eb-8b84-e87db36b9ba3@gmail.com>

On 1/4/22 4:57 AM, Alexandre Camoletti via Fot wrote:
>
> Amici, just a question, doesn?t copper dissipate heat better than 
> aluminum ?
>
Yes, but brass is less thermally conductive than aluminum. Our cars came 
with brass radiators, not copper.

TeriAnn
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From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com  Tue Jan  4 06:21:39 2022
From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 13:21:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
In-Reply-To: <004901d8016a$93a8e430$bafaac90$@camoletti.ch>
References: <A363B430-E2BE-4278-A9F2-21A418392B6C@att.net>
 <5344EDDE-DE84-48AE-8A79-B0A7C6C0F7D6@comcast.net>
 <10CF78E5-27C7-4D48-A839-D97B1C8A675C@mhc-law.com>
 <004901d8016a$93a8e430$bafaac90$@camoletti.ch>
Message-ID: <228114065.1425568.1641302499278@mail.yahoo.com>

 Hi - I'm not 100% certain about the thermal properties, but I'm certain that cost was a major part of the engineering decisions to use copper / brass back in the day. But for street-driven cars, copper / brass is superior for a lot of reasons if you leave out the weight as a factor. It's also more "forgiving" to road debris and flex than aluminium. For a race car, it's no brainer to use aluminium. Way less weight and they usually come with thicker cores and more "rows", hence better suited for the application. Aluminum does have a limited service life, but you can extend that with proper maintenance (flushing the system frequently if you use plain water as the coolant) and checking for cracks / pressure testing (catching problems before they become big problems).
Regards,Bob Lang



    On Tuesday, January 4, 2022, 07:57:24 AM EST, Alexandre Camoletti via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 
Amici, just a question, doesn?t copper dissipate heat better than aluminum ?

 ?

Alex Camoletti 

 ?

 ?

De?: Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la part de John H. Hasty via Fot
Envoy??: mardi 4 janvier 2022 02:12
??: Dave Hogye
Cc?: robert bownes; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
Objet?: Re: [Fot] Aluminium radiators

 ?

We get ours custom made without filler neck ... side hoses... etc from Howe... $ 350 +\-

Sent from my iPhone





On Jan 3, 2022, at 7:21 PM, Dave Hogye via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:


? I have been using a Griffin aluminum radiator for over 8 years now. ?Also, nicely made and good fit in my TR3. ?I ordered it with a shroud and puller fan. $700 total. ?Radiator only, $500.? 

They will build custom. I ordered mine without the problematic or crack prone factory style extended filler neck. I fill it from an expansion tank.?

Dave H.

 ?

Sent from my iPhone





On Jan 3, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:


?FOT, 

 ?

We have good experiences with Wizard as well. They have been reliable and the quality is very good. ?As some people feel that oil coolers are a consumable a item, our research indicates the same may be true for aluminum radiators in cars with cast iron blocks. There are things that can be done to help them live for years. However, they eventually need to be replaced due to the relationship of cast iron, aluminum, water and electrical current.? 

 ?

Also, I would say NEVER run any type of coolant stop leak product with an aluminum radiator, especially with an iron block. You will plug the radiator very-very quickly. ?Not to mention the mess the stops leaks product makes where your block and head ports are supposed to be able to move coolant. ?If you are swapping fluids, find the leak and fix it correctly.?

 ?

I am on year 5 with the last wizard that I purchased and it is still doing good.?

 ?

Paul Ricco

Sent from my iPhone





On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:01 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:


?I got a custom radiator for the GT6 from Wizard a few months ago, and it is really beautiful craftsmanship. ?I had them duplicate the dimensions of one I got twelve years ago from an outfit that went out of business. ?They copied it perfectly. About a 6-8 week leadtime, maybe less if you are getting off-the-shelf. 

 ?

I will say that I?d had the prior one repaired a few times - they can be welded or sealed depending on where the damage is. ?The last time I did some serious damage to it, so it was truly irreparable.

 ?

Much, much lighter than stock, too.

 ?

Scott

 ?

On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:05 PM, Robert Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

 ?

There are a bunch of answers here, but a lot of TR6 crowd buys them from Wizard Radiator (www.wizardcooling.com)

 ?

There's a guy on the Triumphs list - Art Lipp - that sells the Wizards at a discount.

 ?

My one concern about aluminium radiators is that most of the time you can't fix them, so if you crack them, it's in the bin for 'em. Copper / brass is more forgiving. Ally does have the "wow" factor, though.

 ?

c ya,

rml

 ?

On Monday, January 3, 2022, 03:55:59 PM EST, robert bownes via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote: 

 ?

 ?

 ?

Wise(ned) ones,

 ?

Where are folks getting (street) Al radiators nowadays? Just got the original TR6 rad back from the local radiator shop with an estimate of ~$360 to re-core, re-cap the lower end, and get rid of all the acorns the squirrels have thoughtfully stashed in mine, so I figure it's probably cheaper to get a new Al one than press my luck with the original. 

 ?

I found 3 row versions for a bit under $200, but they don't seem to know much about Triumphs (the pictures have the inlet/outlet pointing in the wrong directions) so I figured I'd check here...

 ?

Stay fast!

Bob

 ?

 ?

 ?

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From rkramer56 at gmail.com  Tue Jan  4 06:41:45 2022
From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer Gmail)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 07:41:45 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
In-Reply-To: <228114065.1425568.1641302499278@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <228114065.1425568.1641302499278@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <42CF3131-76BA-41D6-9106-62CFC06B5360@gmail.com>

I just upgraded my TR4 to a Griffen. The common circle track size is too tall to mount straight up but they sell a shorter version. I modified the Griffen universal brackets for the bottom, to put the radiator in front of the original mounts and made up an air box out of some tubing. Pegasus sells the hose adapters. PN in the pictures below. 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 4, 2022, at 7:24 AM, Robert Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Hi - I'm not 100% certain about the thermal properties, but I'm certain that cost was a major part of the engineering decisions to use copper / brass back in the day. But for street-driven cars, copper / brass is superior for a lot of reasons if you leave out the weight as a factor. It's also more "forgiving" to road debris and flex than aluminium. For a race car, it's no brainer to use aluminium. Way less weight and they usually come with thicker cores and more "rows", hence better suited for the application. Aluminum does have a limited service life, but you can extend that with proper maintenance (flushing the system frequently if you use plain water as the coolant) and checking for cracks / pressure testing (catching problems before they become big problems).
> 
> Regards,
> Bob Lang
> 
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, January 4, 2022, 07:57:24 AM EST, Alexandre Camoletti via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Amici, just a question, doesn?t copper dissipate heat better than aluminum ?
> 
>  
> 
> Alex Camoletti
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> De : Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la part de John H. Hasty via Fot
> Envoy? : mardi 4 janvier 2022 02:12
> ? : Dave Hogye
> Cc : robert bownes; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
> Objet : Re: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
> 
>  
> 
> We get ours custom made without filler neck ... side hoses... etc from Howe... $ 350 +\-
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan 3, 2022, at 7:21 PM, Dave Hogye via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ? I have been using a Griffin aluminum radiator for over 8 years now.  Also, nicely made and good fit in my TR3.  I ordered it with a shroud and puller fan. $700 total.  Radiator only, $500. 
> 
> They will build custom. I ordered mine without the problematic or crack prone factory style extended filler neck. I fill it from an expansion tank. 
> 
> Dave H.
> 
>  
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan 3, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?FOT,
> 
>  
> 
> We have good experiences with Wizard as well. They have been reliable and the quality is very good.  As some people feel that oil coolers are a consumable a item, our research indicates the same may be true for aluminum radiators in cars with cast iron blocks. There are things that can be done to help them live for years. However, they eventually need to be replaced due to the relationship of cast iron, aluminum, water and electrical current. 
> 
>  
> 
> Also, I would say NEVER run any type of coolant stop leak product with an aluminum radiator, especially with an iron block. You will plug the radiator very-very quickly.  Not to mention the mess the stops leaks product makes where your block and head ports are supposed to be able to move coolant.  If you are swapping fluids, find the leak and fix it correctly. 
> 
>  
> 
> I am on year 5 with the last wizard that I purchased and it is still doing good. 
> 
>  
> 
> Paul Ricco
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:01 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?I got a custom radiator for the GT6 from Wizard a few months ago, and it is really beautiful craftsmanship.  I had them duplicate the dimensions of one I got twelve years ago from an outfit that went out of business.  They copied it perfectly. About a 6-8 week leadtime, maybe less if you are getting off-the-shelf.
> 
>  
> 
> I will say that I?d had the prior one repaired a few times - they can be welded or sealed depending on where the damage is.  The last time I did some serious damage to it, so it was truly irreparable.
> 
>  
> 
> Much, much lighter than stock, too.
> 
>  
> 
> Scott
> 
>  
> 
> On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:05 PM, Robert Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> There are a bunch of answers here, but a lot of TR6 crowd buys them from Wizard Radiator (www.wizardcooling.com)
> 
>  
> 
> There's a guy on the Triumphs list - Art Lipp - that sells the Wizards at a discount.
> 
>  
> 
> My one concern about aluminium radiators is that most of the time you can't fix them, so if you crack them, it's in the bin for 'em. Copper / brass is more forgiving. Ally does have the "wow" factor, though.
> 
>  
> 
> c ya,
> 
> rml
> 
>  
> 
> On Monday, January 3, 2022, 03:55:59 PM EST, robert bownes via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Wise(ned) ones,
> 
>  
> 
> Where are folks getting (street) Al radiators nowadays? Just got the original TR6 rad back from the local radiator shop with an estimate of ~$360 to re-core, re-cap the lower end, and get rid of all the acorns the squirrels have thoughtfully stashed in mine, so I figure it's probably cheaper to get a new Al one than press my luck with the original.
> 
>  
> 
> I found 3 row versions for a bit under $200, but they don't seem to know much about Triumphs (the pictures have the inlet/outlet pointing in the wrong directions) so I figured I'd check here...
> 
>  
> 
> Stay fast!
> 
> Bob
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From sjanzen at me.com  Tue Jan  4 07:14:43 2022
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 09:14:43 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 door trim - thanks
In-Reply-To: <7B405EBB-74F6-446D-AE99-9A649AF4A24F@gmail.com>
References: <2024E3A3-F22D-402A-8E51-EB0BA234A751@me.com>
 <7B405EBB-74F6-446D-AE99-9A649AF4A24F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9B1B3985-C7CD-4FAE-9EE1-BC591AAFF474@me.com>

Thanks, I now know what is correct, have no idea how what was on the car got there as it was neither early or late.

On Jan 3, 2022, at 8:25 PM, Lorne Fritz <lorne.fritz at gmail.com> wrote:

Scott,  The early cars had a molded in door pull in that part.  The later cars had a chrome door pull in the center of the door panel. This door capping was plastic like the dash without a pull.  If you cover this will plain black upholstery  material it would look ok.  Lorne
> On Jan 3, 2022, at 5:24 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> 
> ok, so it?s not a race car question, but I? trying to finish up work on my 1970 street tr6 so that I can get to the race car. 
> I stripped the doors down to have them repainted and am now putting them back together.
> At the top of the doors, on the inside between the window seal and the door panel, there was foam-backed black vinyl glued on and with lower edge tucked behind the door panel and upper edge behind the window seal.
> It?s in bad shape and I need to replace it.  I may just end up getting some vinyl and foam but I?m trying to figure out what?s correct.
> 
> Moss shows a piece for the earlier cars with a molded-in handle.  Mine didn?t have that. door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-015 <https://mossmotors.com/door-pull-left-foam-pad-reproduction-replaces-855-015>
> The later cars show door top capping - looks more like what I had, but looks like it?s a rigid piece.  door-top-capping-right <https://mossmotors.com/door-top-capping-right>
> 
> What?s correct?  At the moment, I just have nicely painted body color sheet metal between the door panel and the window seal, looks kind of nice but out of place with no other exposed metal in the car.
> 
> Scott
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
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> 
> 


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From jerryvv at roadrunner.com  Tue Jan  4 07:31:08 2022
From: jerryvv at roadrunner.com (Jerry V V)
Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2022 14:31:08 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators
Message-ID: <837c290643565ee51f4c64f66d3c16526573cd00@webmail>



	I have a little experience with aluminum radiators as I sold them for
10 years. They are susceptible to electrolysis if you don?t keep a
watch on the coolant voltage. Yes it will show some small voltage but
if too high a hole will occur in the tubes. Google electrolysis in
auto radiators and you?ll find some detailed information. May not be
as much an issue in race cars as our hobby cars but worth the
education. Also a common aluminum radiator repair is the use of an
epoxy. Works well if the aluminum is clean. 

	JVV
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From rek46 at aol.com  Tue Jan  4 08:28:46 2022
From: rek46 at aol.com (rek46)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 15:28:46 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <837c290643565ee51f4c64f66d3c16526573cd00@webmail>
References: <837c290643565ee51f4c64f66d3c16526573cd00@webmail>
Message-ID: <163390356.1463808.1641310126654@mail.yahoo.com>

who did you sell for?

In a message dated 1/4/2022 9:31:49 AM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes:?

I have a little experience with aluminum radiators as I sold them for 10 years. They are susceptible to electrolysis if you don?t keep a watch on the coolant voltage. Yes it will show some small voltage but if too high a hole will occur in the tubes. Google electrolysis in auto radiators and you?ll find some detailed information. May not be as much an issue in race cars as our hobby cars but worth the education. Also a common aluminum radiator repair is the use of an epoxy. Works well if the aluminum is clean.

JVV
_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Jan  4 08:33:04 2022
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 07:33:04 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <837c290643565ee51f4c64f66d3c16526573cd00@webmail>
References: <837c290643565ee51f4c64f66d3c16526573cd00@webmail>
Message-ID: <65a88cf3-4584-2415-2f9b-974e29f26475@gmail.com>

On 1/4/22 6:31 AM, Jerry V V via Fot wrote:
>
> They are susceptible to electrolysis if you don?t keep a watch on the 
> coolant voltage.
>
cooling system electrolysis is the result of poor grounding and your 
coolant being used as an electrical ground path. Aluminum is a fairly 
active metal and in the presence of an electric field will act as an 
anode and give up an electron to move current through the coolant 
towards a ground source. The result is the aluminum metal being eaten 
away and a gritty build up on the cathode side of the electrical 
pathway. Commercial coolants have inhibitors that can slow this process 
until the inhibitor gets used up. Tap water has ions in suspension that 
can facilitate electrolysis.

What you need to do is provide lower resistance electrical pathways 
between the engine and the battery ground. A good bare metal to bare 
metal ground strap between the engine & frame is a good first step. 
Triumphs with the battery ground going to the body also needs a strap 
between the body and frame. If you have an alternator you should find a 
ground post on the case. Run a wire from the alternator case to the frame.

Make sure your coolant gets changed per the directions and mix it with 
distilled water to eliminate the ions in tap water that can help 
facilitate electrolysis. Commercial coolants are formulated to minimize 
electrolysis. Another thing you can do is replace your radiator drain 
valve with a zinc plug. Zinc is more chemically active than aluminum so 
will more easily give up its ions for electrical current flow. It 
becomes the sacrificial anode giving of itself instead of the aluminum.

Good grounds, fresh coolant, distilled water, and a zinc radiator plug 
together makes for happier aluminum bits in contact with coolant.

TeriAnn
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From sonomascot at aol.com  Tue Jan  4 08:39:43 2022
From: sonomascot at aol.com (Scott Meredith)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 15:39:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <65a88cf3-4584-2415-2f9b-974e29f26475@gmail.com>
References: <837c290643565ee51f4c64f66d3c16526573cd00@webmail>
 <65a88cf3-4584-2415-2f9b-974e29f26475@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <321729574.1466756.1641310783303@mail.yahoo.com>

Thanks TeriAnn - Great info. I didn't know any of that . . .


-----Original Message-----
From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jan 4, 2022 7:33 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators

 On 1/4/22 6:31 AM, Jerry V V via Fot wrote:
  
 

They are susceptible to electrolysis if you don?t keep a watch on the coolant voltage.
 
cooling system electrolysis is the result of poor grounding and your coolant being used as an electrical ground path. Aluminum is a fairly active metal and in the presence of an electric field will act as an anode and give up an electron to move current through the coolant towards a ground source. The result is the aluminum metal being eaten away and a gritty build up on the cathode side of the electrical pathway. Commercial coolants have inhibitors that can slow this process until the inhibitor gets used up. Tap water has ions in suspension that can facilitate electrolysis.
 
What you need to do is provide lower resistance electrical pathways between the engine and the battery ground. A good bare metal to bare metal ground strap between the engine & frame is a good first step. Triumphs with the battery ground going to the body also needs a strap between the body and frame. If you have an alternator you should find a ground post on the case. Run a wire from the alternator case to the frame.
 
Make sure your coolant gets changed per the directions and mix it with distilled water to eliminate the ions in tap water that can help facilitate electrolysis. Commercial coolants are formulated to minimize electrolysis. Another thing you can do is replace your radiator drain valve with a zinc plug. Zinc is more chemically active than aluminum so will more easily give up its ions for electrical current flow. It becomes the sacrificial anode giving of itself instead of the aluminum.
 
Good grounds, fresh coolant, distilled water, and a zinc radiator plug together makes for happier aluminum bits in contact with coolant.
 
 
TeriAnn

  _______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From tony at tonydrews.com  Tue Jan  4 09:44:09 2022
From: tony at tonydrews.com (Tony Drews)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 10:44:09 -0600
Subject: [Fot] More videos - BHF October
Message-ID: <29d735c6-021f-2aaf-a2d8-65637c34945a@tonydrews.com>

Got the Blackhawk Farms race in October stuff put together.? The Sunday 
Sprint and Feature race are the most enjoyable to watch.

Saturday Qualifying - we got TWO starts behind a pace car, never had 
that before.

https://youtu.be/VhI5UZpUNFA

Sunday Sprint - great battle with Rick Gurolnick

https://youtu.be/hLeRw--TxMg

Sunday Feature - battling with Ray Hoeper in an Elva and Ryan Murphy in 
a TR-4

https://youtu.be/dYkidOtFrTo

Sunday Witches Hunt pursuit race - nice long race to end the season, but 
not much action on track.

https://youtu.be/ehKVAZbFjVM

Regards, Tony Drews


From nicholsondustin at yahoo.com  Tue Jan  4 12:50:23 2022
From: nicholsondustin at yahoo.com (dustin nicholson)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 13:50:23 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <321729574.1466756.1641310783303@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <321729574.1466756.1641310783303@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D1151D3E-1122-4B18-B86A-5D3AE1DB15D6@yahoo.com>

I read an interesting article once that said while brass/copper out performs aluminum, an aluminum radiator will dissipate heat better than brass radiators because of all the leads solder in the seams of the brass. Lead holds the heat and therefore offsets the advantage of the brass. Seems like reasonable logic but I can?t substantiate it.

? and I have tried the epoxy fix on an aluminum radiator leak, lasted about 6 months which was longer than the radiator shop anticipated.

Dustin Nicholson 
281-871-9623

> On Jan 4, 2022, at 9:40 AM, Scott Meredith via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Thanks TeriAnn - Great info. I didn't know any of that . . .
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> To: fot at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tue, Jan 4, 2022 7:33 am
> Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators
> 
> On 1/4/22 6:31 AM, Jerry V V via Fot wrote:
> 
> They are susceptible to electrolysis if you don?t keep a watch on the coolant voltage.
> 
> cooling system electrolysis is the result of poor grounding and your coolant being used as an electrical ground path. Aluminum is a fairly active metal and in the presence of an electric field will act as an anode and give up an electron to move current through the coolant towards a ground source. The result is the aluminum metal being eaten away and a gritty build up on the cathode side of the electrical pathway. Commercial coolants have inhibitors that can slow this process until the inhibitor gets used up. Tap water has ions in suspension that can facilitate electrolysis.
> 
> What you need to do is provide lower resistance electrical pathways between the engine and the battery ground. A good bare metal to bare metal ground strap between the engine & frame is a good first step. Triumphs with the battery ground going to the body also needs a strap between the body and frame. If you have an alternator you should find a ground post on the case. Run a wire from the alternator case to the frame.
> 
> Make sure your coolant gets changed per the directions and mix it with distilled water to eliminate the ions in tap water that can help facilitate electrolysis. Commercial coolants are formulated to minimize electrolysis. Another thing you can do is replace your radiator drain valve with a zinc plug. Zinc is more chemically active than aluminum so will more easily give up its ions for electrical current flow. It becomes the sacrificial anode giving of itself instead of the aluminum.
> 
> Good grounds, fresh coolant, distilled water, and a zinc radiator plug together makes for happier aluminum bits in contact with coolant.
> 
> TeriAnn
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sonomascot at aol.com
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/nicholsondustin at yahoo.com
> 
> 
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Tue Jan  4 13:56:12 2022
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 12:56:12 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <D1151D3E-1122-4B18-B86A-5D3AE1DB15D6@yahoo.com>
References: <321729574.1466756.1641310783303@mail.yahoo.com>
 <D1151D3E-1122-4B18-B86A-5D3AE1DB15D6@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <d84b3918-5717-a3de-3b33-19480a7e2770@gmail.com>

On 1/4/22 11:50 AM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote:
> I read an interesting article once that said while brass/copper out 
> performs aluminum, an aluminum radiator will dissipate heat better 
> than brass radiators because of all the leads solder in the seams of 
> the brass. Lead holds the heat and therefore offsets the advantage of 
> the brass. Seems like reasonable logic but I can?t substantiate it.


Why aluminum radiators are better than bass:

Thermal conductivity Btu/(hr.ft? degrees F)

brass (stock radiators) -? 83 degrees
Aluminum (radiators) - 126
copper - 218

cast iron - 27.7

TeriAnn


From putinbaytr3 at yahoo.com  Tue Jan  4 14:44:20 2022
From: putinbaytr3 at yahoo.com (Rich Hahn)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 21:44:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <D1151D3E-1122-4B18-B86A-5D3AE1DB15D6@yahoo.com>
References: <321729574.1466756.1641310783303@mail.yahoo.com>
 <D1151D3E-1122-4B18-B86A-5D3AE1DB15D6@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <799224583.1643434.1641332660947@mail.yahoo.com>

 I had to make an emergency repair on my Datsun Roadster vintage race car radiator in the middle of a race weekend.? JB Quick Weld did the trick and in fact lasted for a few more races.? Can't push the envelope too far so I replaced it aluminum.? Before anyone berates me for driving a Datsun, I also have 3 TR's.? Actually if you were blindfolded it would be hard to tell you were driving a Datsun SRL311 or a TR4.? Same size and they handle almost identically in my opinion.?
    On Tuesday, January 4, 2022, 02:52:33 PM EST, dustin nicholson via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 I read an interesting article once that said while brass/copper out performs aluminum, an aluminum radiator will dissipate heat better than brass radiators because of all the leads solder in the seams of the brass. Lead holds the heat and therefore offsets the advantage of the brass. Seems like reasonable logic but I can?t substantiate it.
? and I have tried the epoxy fix on an aluminum radiator leak, lasted about 6 months which was longer than the radiator shop anticipated.

Dustin Nicholson?281-871-9623

On Jan 4, 2022, at 9:40 AM, Scott Meredith via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:



?Thanks TeriAnn - Great info. I didn't know any of that . . .


-----Original Message-----
From: TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: fot at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jan 4, 2022 7:33 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators

 On 1/4/22 6:31 AM, Jerry V V via Fot wrote:
  
 

They are susceptible to electrolysis if you don?t keep a watch on the coolant voltage.
 
cooling system electrolysis is the result of poor grounding and your coolant being used as an electrical ground path. Aluminum is a fairly active metal and in the presence of an electric field will act as an anode and give up an electron to move current through the coolant towards a ground source. The result is the aluminum metal being eaten away and a gritty build up on the cathode side of the electrical pathway. Commercial coolants have inhibitors that can slow this process until the inhibitor gets used up. Tap water has ions in suspension that can facilitate electrolysis.
 
What you need to do is provide lower resistance electrical pathways between the engine and the battery ground. A good bare metal to bare metal ground strap between the engine & frame is a good first step. Triumphs with the battery ground going to the body also needs a strap between the body and frame. If you have an alternator you should find a ground post on the case. Run a wire from the alternator case to the frame.
 
Make sure your coolant gets changed per the directions and mix it with distilled water to eliminate the ions in tap water that can help facilitate electrolysis. Commercial coolants are formulated to minimize electrolysis. Another thing you can do is replace your radiator drain valve with a zinc plug. Zinc is more chemically active than aluminum so will more easily give up its ions for electrical current flow. It becomes the sacrificial anode giving of itself instead of the aluminum.
 
Good grounds, fresh coolant, distilled water, and a zinc radiator plug together makes for happier aluminum bits in contact with coolant.
 
 
TeriAnn

  _______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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From 4msonset at gmail.com  Tue Jan  4 15:23:42 2022
From: 4msonset at gmail.com (J Wagner)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 14:23:42 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <d84b3918-5717-a3de-3b33-19480a7e2770@gmail.com>
References: <d84b3918-5717-a3de-3b33-19480a7e2770@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9E4911AF-B53C-4B72-9DB0-4BBD43080DF9@gmail.com>

This is informative?.


What material makes the better Radiator: Aluminum or Copper?

https://www.motormouthradio.com/blog/118-what-material-makes-the-better-radiator-aluminum-or-copper


An Aluminum or Copper Radiator for Your Car - Car Craft Magazine

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ccrp-0211-aluminum-or-copper-radiator-for-your-car/

> On Jan 4, 2022, at 12:56 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?On 1/4/22 11:50 AM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote:
>> I read an interesting article once that said while brass/copper out performs aluminum, an aluminum radiator will dissipate heat better than brass radiators because of all the leads solder in the seams of the brass. Lead holds the heat and therefore offsets the advantage of the brass. Seems like reasonable logic but I can?t substantiate it.
> 
> 
> Why aluminum radiators are better than bass:
> 
> Thermal conductivity Btu/(hr.ft  degrees F)
> 
> brass (stock radiators) -  83 degrees
> Aluminum (radiators) - 126
> copper - 218
> 
> cast iron - 27.7
> 
> TeriAnn
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com
> 
> 
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From rek46 at aol.com  Tue Jan  4 16:45:27 2022
From: rek46 at aol.com (rek46)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2022 23:45:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <9E4911AF-B53C-4B72-9DB0-4BBD43080DF9@gmail.com>
References: <d84b3918-5717-a3de-3b33-19480a7e2770@gmail.com>
 <9E4911AF-B53C-4B72-9DB0-4BBD43080DF9@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1454852224.1677033.1641339927391@mail.yahoo.com>

There is no solder in the fin to tube transfer.....the tubes are a Brazed alum. that is 7 to 12 percent outer layer of Silicon...depending on whether it is for one side or 2....these ingots are mated together (1 or 2 side ) with the original 3000 series base ingot ...So you have a base ingot (about 20") and one or 2 outer ingots(about 2' to 3' per side as spec req.required) stacked up to get your? one or 2 side outer layers... Then they are hot rolled on a reversing mill to several passes to get thin er gauges...which next goes to some 4 stnd cold rolling mills. to get down to about .80 ...this is now ready to ship to finishig mill....which then will take about 8 passes to get down to about .006 to .004"....during this process ,you may need to inter-anneal at certain passes,to end up with H-19? to H -0 TEMPERS for forming ,etc.? dependent on customers finish processes, and customer requierments (many)....This is non technical info as req. by secrecy agreements....BTW...Fin stock is run seperate ly ,and produced to .003" ish? ?to . 0045" ish,plus specials for other reqs........rick
????
In a message dated 1/4/2022 5:24:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes:?
?This is informative?.??What material makes the better Radiator: Aluminum or Copper?
https://www.motormouthradio.com/blog/118-what-material-makes-the-better-radiator-aluminum-or-copper??An Aluminum or Copper Radiator for Your Car - Car Craft Magazine
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ccrp-0211-aluminum-or-copper-radiator-for-your-car/

On Jan 4, 2022, at 12:56 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:



On 1/4/22 11:50 AM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote:

I read an interesting article once that said while brass/copper out performs aluminum, an aluminum radiator will dissipate heat better than brass radiators because of all the leads solder in the seams of the brass. Lead holds the heat and therefore offsets the advantage of the brass. Seems like reasonable logic but I can?t substantiate it.


Why aluminum radiators are better than bass:

Thermal conductivity Btu/(hr.ft? degrees F)

brass (stock radiators) -? 83 degrees
Aluminum (radiators) - 126
copper - 218

cast iron - 27.7

TeriAnn

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Jan  5 00:33:27 2022
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2022 00:33:27 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Another radiator question
Message-ID: <c588595e-91d5-7204-1b4d-ec4ff4749f0c@bradakis.com>

As if there hasn't been enough discussion already.? But I don't think 
anyone has expressed an opinion as to whether crossflow or downflow is 
better. Should be obvious but crossflow the tubes go from side to side, 
downflow top to bottom.

mjb.



From vfracing at aol.com  Wed Jan  5 03:50:16 2022
From: vfracing at aol.com (Philip Gott)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2022 05:50:16 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <1454852224.1677033.1641339927391@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1454852224.1677033.1641339927391@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2A9D9BC4-3F34-4B01-97F0-1144AAE6E553@aol.com>

For a while, one of the chemical companies was advocating plastic radiators. They even had some on display at an SAE conference.  Apparently they tested well.  Their argument was that the important factor was the net water to air heat transfer, and that the limiting things were the water to radiator material and then the radiator material to air, not the radiator material itself, as I recall. They said they could mold a radiator into unusual shapes that would enable better vehicle aerodynamics with more design freedom in the front end?.
Never went anywhere to my knowledge.
Phil Gott


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 4, 2022, at 6:46 PM, rek46 via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> There is no solder in the fin to tube transfer.....the tubes are a Brazed alum. that is 7 to 12 percent outer layer of Silicon...depending on whether it is for one side or 2....these ingots are mated together (1 or 2 side ) with the original 3000 series base ingot ...So you have a base ingot (about 20") and one or 2 outer ingots(about 2' to 3' per side as spec req.required) stacked up to get your  one or 2 side outer layers... Then they are hot rolled on a reversing mill to several passes to get thin er gauges...which next goes to some 4 stnd cold rolling mills. to get down to about .80 ...this is now ready to ship to finishig mill....which then will take about 8 passes to get down to about .006 to .004"....during this process ,you may need to inter-anneal at certain passes,to end up with H-19  to H -0 TEMPERS for forming ,etc.  dependent on customers finish processes, and customer requierments (many)....This is non technical info as req. by secrecy agreements....BTW...Fin stock is run seperate ly ,and produced to .003" ish   to . 0045" ish,plus specials for other reqs........rick
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
> In a message dated 1/4/2022 5:24:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, fot at autox.team.net writes:
>  
>  
> This is informative?.
>  
>  
> What material makes the better Radiator: Aluminum or Copper?
> 
> https://www.motormouthradio.com/blog/118-what-material-makes-the-better-radiator-aluminum-or-copper
>  
>  
> An Aluminum or Copper Radiator for Your Car - Car Craft Magazine
> 
> https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/ccrp-0211-aluminum-or-copper-radiator-for-your-car/
> 
> On Jan 4, 2022, at 12:56 PM, TeriAnn J. Wakeman via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> On 1/4/22 11:50 AM, dustin nicholson via Fot wrote:
> I read an interesting article once that said while brass/copper out performs aluminum, an aluminum radiator will dissipate heat better than brass radiators because of all the leads solder in the seams of the brass. Lead holds the heat and therefore offsets the advantage of the brass. Seems like reasonable logic but I can?t substantiate it.
> 
> 
> Why aluminum radiators are better than bass:
> 
> Thermal conductivity Btu/(hr.ft  degrees F)
> 
> brass (stock radiators) -  83 degrees
> Aluminum (radiators) - 126
> copper - 218
> 
> cast iron - 27.7
> 
> TeriAnn
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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> 
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> 
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Jan  5 07:36:15 2022
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2022 06:36:15 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Another radiator question
In-Reply-To: <c588595e-91d5-7204-1b4d-ec4ff4749f0c@bradakis.com>
References: <c588595e-91d5-7204-1b4d-ec4ff4749f0c@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <efed53a5-42e4-484a-73cb-7a199a033e91@gmail.com>

On 1/4/22 11:33 PM, Mark Bradakis via Fot wrote:
> As if there hasn't been enough discussion already.? But I don't think 
> anyone has expressed an opinion as to whether crossflow or downflow is 
> better. Should be obvious but crossflow the tubes go from side to 
> side, downflow top to bottom.

I thought that depended upon the shape of the radiator. The long 
direction giving more oppertunity for thermal transfer. Just a guess 
mind you. My TR3 aluminum radiator is narrow & has vertical tubes, while 
my wider than stock Series II Land Rover has a Griffin radiator with 
horizontal tubes.

TeriAnn

-- 

Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and 
Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write

*Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*
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From awashatko at wi.rr.com  Wed Jan  5 08:14:04 2022
From: awashatko at wi.rr.com (Allen Washatko)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2022 09:14:04 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Cleaning out the shop
Message-ID: <1EA7B125-106A-44AB-9025-0DCB77979D2F@wi.rr.com>

FoT,

I?m clearing out the shop and have a few things that may be of interest:

1. 16 row oil cooler with British fittings - new
2. +.040 over Hastings piston ring set for TR6
3. Auto Meter Pro Shift Light w/7,000 - 7,800rpm chips
4. Jones mechanical tach - 10,000rpm with telltale. Black face w/31? drive cable
5. OMP 6 point harness - 2/3 x 2 FIA pull-up convertible - red. Certified until 2026 - new
6. OMP arm restraints - red

Please contact me off line if interested.

Thanks,

Allen
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From tjwakeman at gmail.com  Wed Jan  5 08:28:18 2022
From: tjwakeman at gmail.com (TeriAnn J. Wakeman)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2022 07:28:18 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum Radiators
In-Reply-To: <2A9D9BC4-3F34-4B01-97F0-1144AAE6E553@aol.com>
References: <1454852224.1677033.1641339927391@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2A9D9BC4-3F34-4B01-97F0-1144AAE6E553@aol.com>
Message-ID: <237f2294-39d9-be1d-2a95-9902cd75f0df@gmail.com>

On 1/5/22 2:50 AM, Philip Gott wrote:
> For a while, one of the chemical companies was advocating plastic 
> radiators. They even had some on display at an SAE conference. 
> ?Apparently they tested well. ?Their argument was that the important 
> factor was the net water to air heat transfer, and that the limiting 
> things were the water to radiator material and then the radiator 
> material to air, not the radiator material itself, as I recall. They 
> said they could mold a radiator into unusual shapes that would enable 
> better vehicle aerodynamics with more design freedom in the front end?.
> Never went anywhere to my knowledge.
> Phil Gott

Never went anywhere probably due to overheating ? ? ?

But I agree the limiting factor is the engine cast iron to coolant 
boundary because of the very low thermal conductivity of cast iron. 
That's why engines are designed with coolant passages everyplace they 
could make a passage. Why Chevy made 6 cyl cylinder heads with narrower 
cylinder head water passages to reduce coolant flow in the 1970s (so the 
engine would run hotter to achieve SMOG numbers), And why the TR2-4 
engines have a coolant bypass coupled with skirted thermostats. In 
Triumph's case the bypass was to insure some limited coolant flow during 
engine warmup. If you completely block the bypass and the coolant is not 
flowing you often get localized coolant boiling hot sports in the 
cylinder head during engine warmup. This quickly raises the temperature 
at the hot spots causing uneven thermal expansion of the cylinder head, 
increasing the likelihood of cracks being formed in the cylinder head. 
Warmup is a critical time for cylinder heads because of uneven thermal 
expansion. Most if not all radiator anti freeze liquids have chemicals 
that try to increase coolant to metal surface adhesion. Add in chemicals 
like water wetter? attempt to provide better surface adhesion between 
the cast iron and coolant in order to minimize localized hot sports. But 
they don't help when someone blocks off coolant flow during warmup in an 
effort to try and maximize coolant flow after an engine is warmed up.


TeriAnn

-- 

Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and 
Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write

*Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*
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From rkramer56 at gmail.com  Wed Jan  5 11:26:09 2022
From: rkramer56 at gmail.com (Bob Kramer Gmail)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2022 12:26:09 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
In-Reply-To: <42CF3131-76BA-41D6-9106-62CFC06B5360@gmail.com>
References: <42CF3131-76BA-41D6-9106-62CFC06B5360@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6AB40FBB-E99D-412F-A218-D55233CC92AC@gmail.com>

?I just upgraded my TR4 to a Griffen. The common circle track size is too tall to mount straight up but they sell a shorter version. I modified the Griffen universal brackets for the bottom, to put the radiator in front of the original mounts and made up an air box out of some tubing. Pegasus sells the hose adapters. PN in the pictures below. 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jan 4, 2022, at 7:24 AM, Robert Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> Hi - I'm not 100% certain about the thermal properties, but I'm certain that cost was a major part of the engineering decisions to use copper / brass back in the day. But for street-driven cars, copper / brass is superior for a lot of reasons if you leave out the weight as a factor. It's also more "forgiving" to road debris and flex than aluminium. For a race car, it's no brainer to use aluminium. Way less weight and they usually come with thicker cores and more "rows", hence better suited for the application. Aluminum does have a limited service life, but you can extend that with proper maintenance (flushing the system frequently if you use plain water as the coolant) and checking for cracks / pressure testing (catching problems before they become big problems).
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Bob Lang
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Tuesday, January 4, 2022, 07:57:24 AM EST, Alexandre Camoletti via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Amici, just a question, doesn?t copper dissipate heat better than aluminum ?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Alex Camoletti
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> De : Fot [mailto:fot-bounces at autox.team.net] De la part de John H. Hasty via Fot
>> Envoy? : mardi 4 janvier 2022 02:12
>> ? : Dave Hogye
>> Cc : robert bownes; 'Friends of Triumph' Triumph
>> Objet : Re: [Fot] Aluminium radiators
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We get ours custom made without filler neck ... side hoses... etc from Howe... $ 350 +\-
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Jan 3, 2022, at 7:21 PM, Dave Hogye via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ? I have been using a Griffin aluminum radiator for over 8 years now.  Also, nicely made and good fit in my TR3.  I ordered it with a shroud and puller fan. $700 total.  Radiator only, $500. 
>> 
>> They will build custom. I ordered mine without the problematic or crack prone factory style extended filler neck. I fill it from an expansion tank. 
>> 
>> Dave H.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Jan 3, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Paul Ricco via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?FOT,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We have good experiences with Wizard as well. They have been reliable and the quality is very good.  As some people feel that oil coolers are a consumable a item, our research indicates the same may be true for aluminum radiators in cars with cast iron blocks. There are things that can be done to help them live for years. However, they eventually need to be replaced due to the relationship of cast iron, aluminum, water and electrical current. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Also, I would say NEVER run any type of coolant stop leak product with an aluminum radiator, especially with an iron block. You will plug the radiator very-very quickly.  Not to mention the mess the stops leaks product makes where your block and head ports are supposed to be able to move coolant.  If you are swapping fluids, find the leak and fix it correctly. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I am on year 5 with the last wizard that I purchased and it is still doing good. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Paul Ricco
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:01 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?I got a custom radiator for the GT6 from Wizard a few months ago, and it is really beautiful craftsmanship.  I had them duplicate the dimensions of one I got twelve years ago from an outfit that went out of business.  They copied it perfectly. About a 6-8 week leadtime, maybe less if you are getting off-the-shelf.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I will say that I?d had the prior one repaired a few times - they can be welded or sealed depending on where the damage is.  The last time I did some serious damage to it, so it was truly irreparable.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Much, much lighter than stock, too.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Scott
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Jan 3, 2022, at 4:05 PM, Robert Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> There are a bunch of answers here, but a lot of TR6 crowd buys them from Wizard Radiator (www.wizardcooling.com)
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> There's a guy on the Triumphs list - Art Lipp - that sells the Wizards at a discount.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My one concern about aluminium radiators is that most of the time you can't fix them, so if you crack them, it's in the bin for 'em. Copper / brass is more forgiving. Ally does have the "wow" factor, though.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> c ya,
>> 
>> rml
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Monday, January 3, 2022, 03:55:59 PM EST, robert bownes via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Wise(ned) ones,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Where are folks getting (street) Al radiators nowadays? Just got the original TR6 rad back from the local radiator shop with an estimate of ~$360 to re-core, re-cap the lower end, and get rid of all the acorns the squirrels have thoughtfully stashed in mine, so I figure it's probably cheaper to get a new Al one than press my luck with the original.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I found 3 row versions for a bit under $200, but they don't seem to know much about Triumphs (the pictures have the inlet/outlet pointing in the wrong directions) so I figured I'd check here...
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Stay fast!
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
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>> 
>>  
>> 
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>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
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>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tedtsimx at bright.net  Wed Jan  5 11:58:36 2022
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2022 13:58:36 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum radiators
Message-ID: <39011fd1-6ce9-a622-6542-6601c8eb3ad1@bright.net>

 ? Good discussion.? The one thing I did not see mentioned was 
mounting.? Aluminum radiators do not like to be hard mounted but rather 
a floating mount.? Aluminum does not like to be stressed so a hard 
mount, TR3 - TR6, Spit, etc can stress crack the unit. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
103 E. Main St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022


From rek46 at aol.com  Wed Jan  5 13:50:58 2022
From: rek46 at aol.com (rek46)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2022 20:50:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Aluminum radiators
In-Reply-To: <39011fd1-6ce9-a622-6542-6601c8eb3ad1@bright.net>
References: <39011fd1-6ce9-a622-6542-6601c8eb3ad1@bright.net>
Message-ID: <919825569.2013599.1641415858028@mail.yahoo.com>

use thick rubber grommets type washers...and keep alum. from contacting steel...or you will get galvanic corrosion issues...

Sent from the all new AOL app for Android 
 
  On Wed, Jan 5, 2022 at 1:59 PM, Ted Schumacher via Fot<fot at autox.team.net> wrote:    ? Good discussion.? The one thing I did not see mentioned was 
mounting.? Aluminum radiators do not like to be hard mounted but rather 
a floating mount.? Aluminum does not like to be stressed so a hard 
mount, TR3 - TR6, Spit, etc can stress crack the unit. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
103 E. Main St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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From triumphsix at yahoo.com  Thu Jan  6 14:59:41 2022
From: triumphsix at yahoo.com (David Gott)
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2022 21:59:41 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] 87mm COUNTY piston/liner Tr3/4
References: <947560394.1493346.1641506381229.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <947560394.1493346.1641506381229@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi Amici,
I'm attempting to wear belts and suspenders in trying to prep my TR4 for Sebring in February.? Due to some off luck, the machine shop working on my engine may have a delay getting her done in time, so I'm trying to put together a spare engine last minute out of parts available "in the barn."
Does anyone happen to have one spare County brand 87mm piston and liner kicking around?? I have 3 of each - you can guess what happened to the 4th.? Not looking for a freebee - just available!? This would be the quick path to a backup engine...
Thanks!
Dave GottNashua NH
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From 65356SC at msn.com  Thu Jan  6 18:51:58 2022
From: 65356SC at msn.com (LEE FOLLANSBEE)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2022 01:51:58 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Tire recommendations
Message-ID: <PH0PR03MB63816345AC2B67E99FA68429E64D9@PH0PR03MB6381.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>

Currently running Hoosier P185/60zr13 A7 on my Racing Spitfire.  Getting ready to order new tires for this year. Wondering if anyone has input on a possibly better choice?

Lee Follansbee
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From tr4abrad at gmail.com  Thu Jan  6 19:58:49 2022
From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells)
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2022 18:58:49 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Tire recommendations
In-Reply-To: <PH0PR03MB63816345AC2B67E99FA68429E64D9@PH0PR03MB6381.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
References: <PH0PR03MB63816345AC2B67E99FA68429E64D9@PH0PR03MB6381.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CACZdCPUscv9Z1-O82iJCkP4AvDz4CkdhW6FRgvJy6D_Aas4_Aw@mail.gmail.com>

Lee,

If you are one of those fast guys like...Chuck Gee, you have the right tire
with a Treadwear Rating of 40. Those of us who are far less fast and still
have our training wheels on, go with the Toyo R888R with a Treadwear Rating
of 100. The Toyo is significantly less expensive and longer lasting, but
slower.

VARA is pretty loose with tire rules compared to other Vintage sanctioning
bodies.


*Brad Eells*
*Chino CA*
*#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3*
*#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4*
*1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!*




On Thu, Jan 6, 2022 at 5:52 PM LEE FOLLANSBEE via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Currently running Hoosier P185/60zr13 A7 on my Racing Spitfire.  Getting
> ready to order new tires for this year. Wondering if anyone has input on a
> possibly better choice?
>
> Lee Follansbee
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/tr4abrad at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com  Fri Jan  7 06:31:31 2022
From: robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2022 13:31:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Tire recommendations
In-Reply-To: <PH0PR03MB63816345AC2B67E99FA68429E64D9@PH0PR03MB6381.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
References: <PH0PR03MB63816345AC2B67E99FA68429E64D9@PH0PR03MB6381.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <354306641.137038.1641562291194@mail.yahoo.com>

 Lee - I'm not sure where or who you run with, but different sanctioning bodies have different rules regarding tires.
For example, the Hoosier A7. which is basically an autocross tire as well as the R7 are NOT approved for use with SVRA and all sanctioning bodies that use the SVRA tire reg. Some groups do allow the R7's - so you have to check with the group you run with. One group that I run with, Historic Racing Group, allows the Hoosier R7's. Talking to other drivers, those tires are at least 2 seconds a lap faster than the Hoosier TDR's that I run to be legal with VRG and SVRA. Also note that some racing groups will let you run the faster tires, but you run with more modern cars that will (mostly) be a LOT faster.

If the rules for your group are relatively lax, the Hoosier R7 is a very fast tire. If you are just learning vintage, I would stay away from the fastest tires until you get more comfortable with both the car and those drivers around you. That said, if your group requires a minimum treadwear rating, you need to focus on that. For example, some groups say 200 min on the TW and that limits your choices. Also note that in addition to treadwear ratings, some groups have limits on the tire profile so you have to pay attention to that.
Last -? if you are forced to switch to bias-ply tires, you will have to look at your setup specs, specifically the camber settings. Bias tires run with much less camber than the radials require.

Regards,Bob Lang

    On Thursday, January 6, 2022, 08:52:29 PM EST, LEE FOLLANSBEE via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
  Currently running Hoosier P185/60zr13 A7 on my Racing Spitfire.? Getting ready to order new tires for this year. Wondering if anyone has input on a possibly better choice?
Lee Follansbee_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com


  
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From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Fri Jan  7 14:23:48 2022
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2022 08:23:48 +1100
Subject: [Fot] Tire recommendations
In-Reply-To: <354306641.137038.1641562291194@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <PH0PR03MB63816345AC2B67E99FA68429E64D9@PH0PR03MB6381.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
 <354306641.137038.1641562291194@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b15hK_mu_yBv57PE2SvBz84aXK8YsgDgQG4ac0OaGKC-g@mail.gmail.com>

fwiw, here in australia, we are almost spoiled for choice  . with race
tyres . we have lots of relatively new-comer asian made race tyres, some of
which are very good for the $. BUT, few are available in much less than
205/50/15 size, so 13" is ?nusual", if thats what you are asking about.

they are all radial construction

if you are looking to move away from Hoosiers (which are relatively
uncommon here) , look into Nankang and Hankook, which both appear to be
comparable to many established race tyres and often for 50% of the price.

terry



On Sat, Jan 8, 2022 at 12:32 AM Robert Lang via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Lee - I'm not sure where or who you run with, but different sanctioning
> bodies have different rules regarding tires.
>
> For example, the Hoosier A7. which is basically an autocross tire as well
> as the R7 are NOT approved for use with SVRA and all sanctioning bodies
> that use the SVRA tire reg. Some groups do allow the R7's - so you have to
> check with the group you run with. One group that I run with, Historic
> Racing Group, allows the Hoosier R7's. Talking to other drivers, those
> tires are at least 2 seconds a lap faster than the Hoosier TDR's that I run
> to be legal with VRG and SVRA. Also note that some racing groups will let
> you run the faster tires, but you run with more modern cars that will
> (mostly) be a LOT faster.
>
> If the rules for your group are relatively lax, the Hoosier R7 is a very
> fast tire. If you are just learning vintage, I would stay away from the
> fastest tires until you get more comfortable with both the car and those
> drivers around you. That said, if your group requires a minimum treadwear
> rating, you need to focus on that. For example, some groups say 200 min on
> the TW and that limits your choices. Also note that in addition to
> treadwear ratings, some groups have limits on the tire profile so you have
> to pay attention to that.
>
> Last -  if you are forced to switch to bias-ply tires, you will have to
> look at your setup specs, specifically the camber settings. Bias tires run
> with much less camber than the radials require.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Lang
>
> On Thursday, January 6, 2022, 08:52:29 PM EST, LEE FOLLANSBEE via Fot <
> fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Currently running Hoosier P185/60zr13 A7 on my Racing Spitfire.  Getting
> ready to order new tires for this year. Wondering if anyone has input on a
> possibly better choice?
>
> Lee Follansbee
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/robertlangtr6 at yahoo.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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From ofracer at gmail.com  Fri Jan  7 16:33:14 2022
From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2022 18:33:14 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Kas article in Feb 1972 Car and Driver
Message-ID: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>

My wife came across a large stash of old car mags at a recent garage sale.
As I was digging through them, I came across an article about the new
Kastner-Brophy company's turnkey race car building program.

The article, (attached PDF file) by Gordon Jenkins, follows Kas and Lee
Mueller as they deliver the first customer race spit at Willow Springs to
Jim McCashin.

There's a price list for the add ons needed to transform a MKIV road spit
into a race car.

Racer net, including the price of the new spit, is $5700
Enjoy
mike h
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From terrysopher at gmail.com  Fri Jan  7 17:53:37 2022
From: terrysopher at gmail.com (Terry Sopher)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2022 19:53:37 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Kas article in Feb 1972 Car and Driver
In-Reply-To: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BC07AFBA-B18D-44EF-AE9E-C6B100C3FC52@gmail.com>

Great find Mike!  Thanks for sharing. 
  I was talking with Bob Tullius in October 2021 at our British Car Classic show in St Augustine, FL and he told me about how his Group 44 bought ?Spitfires by the semi-truck load and converted into race cars?. He said it was a good part of his business.  

Best, Terry Sopher

> On Jan 7, 2022, at 18:36, Mike Harmuth via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> My wife came across a large stash of old car mags at a recent garage sale. As I was digging through them, I came across an article about the new Kastner-Brophy company's turnkey race car building program. 
> 
> The article, (attached PDF file) by Gordon Jenkins, follows Kas and Lee Mueller as they deliver the first customer race spit at Willow Springs to Jim McCashin.
> 
> There's a price list for the add ons needed to transform a MKIV road spit into a race car.
> 
> Racer net, including the price of the new spit, is $5700
> Enjoy
> mike h
> 
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/terrysopher at gmail.com
> 
> 

From chasgee22 at gmail.com  Fri Jan  7 18:10:44 2022
From: chasgee22 at gmail.com (chasgee22 at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2022 17:10:44 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Kas article in Feb 1972 Car and Driver
In-Reply-To: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <021BB6E9-10C0-41E9-9590-0CD261083E5B@gmail.com>

What a great article Mike.  Thanks for sharing.  

Chuck

> On Jan 7, 2022, at 3:37 PM, Mike Harmuth via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> My wife came across a large stash of old car mags at a recent garage sale. As I was digging through them, I came across an article about the new Kastner-Brophy company's turnkey race car building program. 
> 
> The article, (attached PDF file) by Gordon Jenkins, follows Kas and Lee Mueller as they deliver the first customer race spit at Willow Springs to Jim McCashin.
> 
> There's a price list for the add ons needed to transform a MKIV road spit into a race car.
> 
> Racer net, including the price of the new spit, is $5700
> Enjoy
> mike h
> 
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com
> 
> 

From sjanzen at me.com  Fri Jan  7 19:12:51 2022
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2022 21:12:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Kas article in Feb 1972 Car and Driver
In-Reply-To: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <13E6BB1D-38E3-48AD-8AF0-7FE034ACE263@me.com>

What a great story, told by a master writer.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 7, 2022, at 6:34 PM, Mike Harmuth via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> My wife came across a large stash of old car mags at a recent garage sale. As I was digging through them, I came across an article about the new Kastner-Brophy company's turnkey race car building program. 
> 
> The article, (attached PDF file) by Gordon Jenkins, follows Kas and Lee Mueller as they deliver the first customer race spit at Willow Springs to Jim McCashin.
> 
> There's a price list for the add ons needed to transform a MKIV road spit into a race car.
> 
> Racer net, including the price of the new spit, is $5700
> Enjoy
> mike h
> 
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> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> 
> 

From kkjjk at aol.com  Fri Jan  7 19:46:37 2022
From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2022 02:46:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Kas article in Feb 1972 Car and Driver
In-Reply-To: <021BB6E9-10C0-41E9-9590-0CD261083E5B@gmail.com>
References: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <021BB6E9-10C0-41E9-9590-0CD261083E5B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1814281627.1747570.1641609997761@mail.yahoo.com>

 That was indeed a great article.? Thanks, Mike!
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Gee via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: Mike Harmuth <ofracer at gmail.com>
Cc: FoTTriumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jan 7, 2022 8:10 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Kas article in Feb 1972 Car and Driver

What a great article Mike.? Thanks for sharing.? 

Chuck

> On Jan 7, 2022, at 3:37 PM, Mike Harmuth via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> My wife came across a large stash of old car mags at a recent garage sale. As I was digging through them, I came across an article about the new Kastner-Brophy company's turnkey race car building program. 
> 
> The article, (attached PDF file) by Gordon Jenkins, follows Kas and Lee Mueller as they deliver the first customer race spit at Willow Springs to Jim McCashin.
> 
> There's a price list for the add ons needed to transform a MKIV road spit into a race car.
> 
> Racer net, including the price of the new spit, is $5700
> Enjoy
> mike h
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/chasgee22 at gmail.com
> 
> 
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Fri Jan  7 21:20:25 2022
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Ponostyle)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2022 18:20:25 -1000
Subject: [Fot] Kas article in Feb 1972 Car and Driver
In-Reply-To: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7C3172FC-3C1E-400E-832E-0C00926A0FCD@ponostyle.com>

That?s the late, great Gordon Jennings, not Jenkins. My favorite motorcycle technical writers and the inspiration for the first really big Fortran program I ever wrote (nine three row boxes of Hollerith punch cards). Gordon Jennings book ?Two stroke tuner?s handbook? was must have for any aspiring two stroke engine builder and one of the many valuable features was calculations for required port timing and expansion chamber element lengths for any two stroke engine once you know what you could rev the thing to, and what you needed for powerband (calculated by finding the RPM drop from upshifting in the most important gears). I was taking a class at the time on writing Fortran and assembly language for the IBM 360 computer and had access to time through the class. So I wrote a program to do all the calculations automatically and recursively find the best fit for all elements?not a simple task: The perfect expansion chamber often turns out to have impossible dimensions. Once I had the thing debugged and running I designed porting and chambers for a number of very successful production road racers and drag racers. I sent Gordon a long letter describing what I?d done. He liked it a lot and was talking about doing a new version of the book including the code, perhaps on a disk, which I had translated to C to run on the Osborne 1 computer, I went so far as to also translate it to MBasic for people uncomfortable with the intricacies of compilers and makefiles. Perhaps his publisher dissuaded him from doing something no motorcycle mechanic would buy?but he lost interest. I remained a fan. 


Bill Babcock
Beach Bum
bill at ponostyle.com
https://www.Ponostyle.com

> On Jan 7, 2022, at 1:33 PM, Mike Harmuth via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> My wife came across a large stash of old car mags at a recent garage sale. As I was digging through them, I came across an article about the new Kastner-Brophy company's turnkey race car building program. 
> 
> The article, (attached PDF file) by Gordon Jenkins, follows Kas and Lee Mueller as they deliver the first customer race spit at Willow Springs to Jim McCashin.
> 
> There's a price list for the add ons needed to transform a MKIV road spit into a race car.
> 
> Racer net, including the price of the new spit, is $5700
> Enjoy
> mike h
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com
> 
> 

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From john.r.davies at btinternet.com  Sat Jan  8 03:46:00 2022
From: john.r.davies at btinternet.com (john.r.davies at btinternet.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2022 10:46:00 -0000
Subject: [Fot] Fot Digest, Vol 105, Issue 8
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2282.1641607976.2811.fot@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2282.1641607976.2811.fot@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <023201d8047c$ecd0eac0$c672c040$@btinternet.com>

Mike,
I'm sure that Triumpheros here on t'other side of t'Pond would like to read
the article.  Especially the price list!   May I copy it to UK message
boards, with your 'byline'?
John (Lancaster UK)

-----Original Message-----
From: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
fot-request at autox.team.net
Sent: 08 January 2022 02:13
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: Fot Digest, Vol 105, Issue 8

Send Fot mailing list submissions to
	fot at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	fot-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
	fot-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of Fot digest..."


From kkjjk at aol.com  Sat Jan  8 07:15:08 2022
From: kkjjk at aol.com (kkjjk at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2022 14:15:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Kas article in Feb 1972 Car and Driver
In-Reply-To: <7C3172FC-3C1E-400E-832E-0C00926A0FCD@ponostyle.com>
References: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7C3172FC-3C1E-400E-832E-0C00926A0FCD@ponostyle.com>
Message-ID: <2085925697.1784728.1641651308251@mail.yahoo.com>

 You are correct, Bill!? Gordon Jenkins was an arranger/composer/pianist.? He was great and worked with many of the great vocalists including Frank among many others...That much I know.? What you wrote, not so much!
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Ponostyle via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: Mike Harmuth <ofracer at gmail.com>
Cc: FoTTriumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, Jan 7, 2022 11:20 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] Kas article in Feb 1972 Car and Driver

That?s the late, great Gordon Jennings, not Jenkins. My favorite motorcycle technical writers and the inspiration for the first really big Fortran program I ever wrote (nine three row boxes of Hollerith punch cards). Gordon Jennings book ?Two stroke tuner?s handbook? was must have for any aspiring two stroke engine builder and one of the many valuable features was calculations for required port timing and expansion chamber element lengths for any two stroke engine once you know what you could rev the thing to, and what you needed for powerband (calculated by finding the RPM drop from upshifting in the most important gears). I was taking a class at the time on writing Fortran and assembly language for the IBM 360 computer and had access to time through the class. So I wrote a program to do all the calculations automatically and recursively find the best fit for all elements?not a simple task: The perfect expansion chamber often turns out to have impossible dimensions. Once I had the thing debugged and running I designed porting and chambers for a number of very successful production road racers and drag racers. I sent Gordon a long letter describing what I?d done. He liked it a lot and was talking about doing a new version of the book including the code, perhaps on a disk, which I had translated to C to run on the Osborne 1 computer, I went so far as to also translate it to MBasic for people uncomfortable with the intricacies of compilers and makefiles. Perhaps his publisher dissuaded him from doing something no motorcycle mechanic would buy?but he lost interest. I remained a fan.?

Bill Babcock
Beach Bum
bill at ponostyle.com
https://www.Ponostyle.com


On Jan 7, 2022, at 1:33 PM, Mike Harmuth via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
My wife came across a large stash of old car mags at a recent garage sale. As I was digging?through them, I?came across an article about the new Kastner-Brophy company's turnkey race car building program.?
The article, (attached PDF file) by Gordon Jenkins, follows Kas and Lee Mueller as they deliver the first customer race spit at Willow Springs to Jim McCashin.
There's a price list for the add ons needed to transform a MKIV road spit into a race car.
Racer net, including the price of the new spit, is $5700Enjoymike h


_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com




_______________________________________________
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From david.c.cutter at gmail.com  Sat Jan  8 13:28:06 2022
From: david.c.cutter at gmail.com (David Cutter)
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2022 15:28:06 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Kas article in Feb 1972 Car and Driver
In-Reply-To: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO0FjVb7_2Jw8dDPo3Wc7H988od3gG36AASMpFcn1zQMbaNfyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAC5qWeAimib-52ooF5koAckckTmJT70Om=ftdsFrN4t1WporBA@mail.gmail.com>

Mike, great share, thanks!!

I wonder if any of the turnkey Kas Spits are still racing?

Cheers, Dave
'65 Spitfire #42



On Fri, Jan 7, 2022, 6:37 PM Mike Harmuth via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> My wife came across a large stash of old car mags at a recent garage sale.
> As I was digging through them, I came across an article about the new
> Kastner-Brophy company's turnkey race car building program.
>
> The article, (attached PDF file) by Gordon Jenkins, follows Kas and Lee
> Mueller as they deliver the first customer race spit at Willow Springs to
> Jim McCashin.
>
> There's a price list for the add ons needed to transform a MKIV road spit
> into a race car.
>
> Racer net, including the price of the new spit, is $5700
> Enjoy
> mike h
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/david.c.cutter at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From tr4abrad at gmail.com  Sun Jan  9 21:25:12 2022
From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells)
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2022 20:25:12 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Front Shocks
Message-ID: <CACZdCPWEARKMLhXN4qharOGUt8zEL_NrLsPL+MtdzsrSggwBwA@mail.gmail.com>

Amici,

A quick shock question. My Mk3 had a custom set up for front ride height
adjustability with a set of shocks that are not salvageable.

I put a set of Koni's on the car during the rebuild but find the front
riding high, or basically stock ride height.

The only adjustable ride height shocks I can find is the GAZ model that
appears to be only available at Rimmers.

Is this the modern solution and any thoughts on how stiff to set them when
installed?

Thanks and Happy New Year!


*Brad Eells*
*Chino CA*
*#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3*
*#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4*
*1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!*
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From hpspitfire at gmail.com  Mon Jan 10 06:20:55 2022
From: hpspitfire at gmail.com (Aaron Johnson)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2022 08:20:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Front Shocks
In-Reply-To: <CACZdCPWEARKMLhXN4qharOGUt8zEL_NrLsPL+MtdzsrSggwBwA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACZdCPWEARKMLhXN4qharOGUt8zEL_NrLsPL+MtdzsrSggwBwA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CANjJ5WBM-qSBkMT==nB_RWRp2VwR3jc+HZJH2fYXQ_2aPddPVg@mail.gmail.com>

Brad,

A couple options out there that aren't Penske Custom money.

1) Spax still makes one for the spitfire, and it's likely if you called
them they could make for the car in an aluminum body, multi adjustable, but
you'd have to talk to them.
2) lesser know, but i used them on my spitfire for a lot of years...Avo
Shocks.  https://www.avouk.com/product/triumph-herald-spitfire/ reasonably
priced, adjustable and they were very good quality.  They would also do
custom work if you wanted a rod end on the bottom and top etc etc....

aaron

On Sun, Jan 9, 2022 at 11:26 PM Brad Eells via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Amici,
>
> A quick shock question. My Mk3 had a custom set up for front ride height
> adjustability with a set of shocks that are not salvageable.
>
> I put a set of Koni's on the car during the rebuild but find the front
> riding high, or basically stock ride height.
>
> The only adjustable ride height shocks I can find is the GAZ model that
> appears to be only available at Rimmers.
>
> Is this the modern solution and any thoughts on how stiff to set them when
> installed?
>
> Thanks and Happy New Year!
>
>
> *Brad Eells*
> *Chino CA*
> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3*
> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4*
> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/hpspitfire at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From slaterptrs at gmail.com  Mon Jan 10 06:40:45 2022
From: slaterptrs at gmail.com (Tim Slater)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2022 08:40:45 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Front Shocks
In-Reply-To: <CACZdCPWEARKMLhXN4qharOGUt8zEL_NrLsPL+MtdzsrSggwBwA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACZdCPWEARKMLhXN4qharOGUt8zEL_NrLsPL+MtdzsrSggwBwA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO0=7y_d8TCDy=mOy5+5sa1B4AE02kGHfXHDAa_gAqr-ULcg4A@mail.gmail.com>

Brad,
I use Spax adjustables set about #5 on the 1-10 adjustment You can alter
this without taking the shock off the car. , They  adjust length with 2
threaded locking rings  That coupled with  500 lb springs , ride height set
at 4 inches from frame to ground. Thats the set up I have on the H Prod
Spitfire. Have similar set up on the vintage spitfires as well. with the
lower A arms set parallel to the ground.
Tim Slater
West Palm Beach Fl.




Cell: 561-629-3391



On Sun, Jan 9, 2022 at 11:25 PM Brad Eells via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Amici,
>
> A quick shock question. My Mk3 had a custom set up for front ride height
> adjustability with a set of shocks that are not salvageable.
>
> I put a set of Koni's on the car during the rebuild but find the front
> riding high, or basically stock ride height.
>
> The only adjustable ride height shocks I can find is the GAZ model that
> appears to be only available at Rimmers.
>
> Is this the modern solution and any thoughts on how stiff to set them when
> installed?
>
> Thanks and Happy New Year!
>
>
> *Brad Eells*
> *Chino CA*
> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3*
> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4*
> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/slaterptrs at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From ofracer at gmail.com  Mon Jan 10 07:10:20 2022
From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2022 09:10:20 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Front Shocks
In-Reply-To: <CACZdCPWEARKMLhXN4qharOGUt8zEL_NrLsPL+MtdzsrSggwBwA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACZdCPWEARKMLhXN4qharOGUt8zEL_NrLsPL+MtdzsrSggwBwA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO0FjVaUWVFFRMBkCoJ3JL6YBFkJL1_ohLF1xzBnd2FTa8CLjA@mail.gmail.com>

I use the Spax adjustable perch shocks (they make a non adjustable set as
well, so be sure you're getting the right one). I like the "stiffness"
adjustment feature, you can make changes to the settings without  jacking
the car up, just reach under the car and twist the knob. I find I run
around  7 clicks from soft (out of ~20) and Watkins Glen and 10 on smoother
tracks like Thompson and Lime Rock. I've had one fail, after launching the
car at Pocono, and a second set just wore out after 10 years.

mike h

On Sun, Jan 9, 2022 at 11:25 PM Brad Eells via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Amici,
>
> A quick shock question. My Mk3 had a custom set up for front ride height
> adjustability with a set of shocks that are not salvageable.
>
> I put a set of Koni's on the car during the rebuild but find the front
> riding high, or basically stock ride height.
>
> The only adjustable ride height shocks I can find is the GAZ model that
> appears to be only available at Rimmers.
>
> Is this the modern solution and any thoughts on how stiff to set them when
> installed?
>
> Thanks and Happy New Year!
>
>
> *Brad Eells*
> *Chino CA*
> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3*
> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4*
> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From tr4abrad at gmail.com  Mon Jan 10 07:48:28 2022
From: tr4abrad at gmail.com (Brad Eells)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2022 06:48:28 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Front Shocks
In-Reply-To: <CAO0FjVaUWVFFRMBkCoJ3JL6YBFkJL1_ohLF1xzBnd2FTa8CLjA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACZdCPWEARKMLhXN4qharOGUt8zEL_NrLsPL+MtdzsrSggwBwA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO0FjVaUWVFFRMBkCoJ3JL6YBFkJL1_ohLF1xzBnd2FTa8CLjA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CACZdCPUjhZ=U8L0FT1qjk7nGGYM-v_B=nYjDtsrbq245zP2FCw@mail.gmail.com>

All,

Looks like this is what I am looking for:

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GSA366SPAXAS

Thanks!


*Brad Eells*
*Chino CA*
*#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3*
*#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4*
*1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!*




On Mon, Jan 10, 2022 at 6:10 AM Mike Harmuth <ofracer at gmail.com> wrote:

> I use the Spax adjustable perch shocks (they make a non adjustable set as
> well, so be sure you're getting the right one). I like the "stiffness"
> adjustment feature, you can make changes to the settings without  jacking
> the car up, just reach under the car and twist the knob. I find I run
> around  7 clicks from soft (out of ~20) and Watkins Glen and 10 on smoother
> tracks like Thompson and Lime Rock. I've had one fail, after launching the
> car at Pocono, and a second set just wore out after 10 years.
>
> mike h
>
> On Sun, Jan 9, 2022 at 11:25 PM Brad Eells via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Amici,
>>
>> A quick shock question. My Mk3 had a custom set up for front ride height
>> adjustability with a set of shocks that are not salvageable.
>>
>> I put a set of Koni's on the car during the rebuild but find the front
>> riding high, or basically stock ride height.
>>
>> The only adjustable ride height shocks I can find is the GAZ model that
>> appears to be only available at Rimmers.
>>
>> Is this the modern solution and any thoughts on how stiff to set them
>> when installed?
>>
>> Thanks and Happy New Year!
>>
>>
>> *Brad Eells*
>> *Chino CA*
>> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3*
>> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4*
>> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!*
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
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From ofracer at gmail.com  Mon Jan 10 08:01:09 2022
From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2022 10:01:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Spitfire Front Shocks
In-Reply-To: <CACZdCPUjhZ=U8L0FT1qjk7nGGYM-v_B=nYjDtsrbq245zP2FCw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CACZdCPWEARKMLhXN4qharOGUt8zEL_NrLsPL+MtdzsrSggwBwA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAO0FjVaUWVFFRMBkCoJ3JL6YBFkJL1_ohLF1xzBnd2FTa8CLjA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CACZdCPUjhZ=U8L0FT1qjk7nGGYM-v_B=nYjDtsrbq245zP2FCw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAO0FjVZpgEnybysRuA7cui0wB6SWYSDcsAJSw_EXW8EfBD8bfw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Brad, yes those are the ones.

mike h

On Mon, Jan 10, 2022 at 9:48 AM Brad Eells <tr4abrad at gmail.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> Looks like this is what I am looking for:
>
> https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GSA366SPAXAS
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> *Brad Eells*
> *Chino CA*
> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3*
> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4*
> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!*
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 10, 2022 at 6:10 AM Mike Harmuth <ofracer at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I use the Spax adjustable perch shocks (they make a non adjustable set as
>> well, so be sure you're getting the right one). I like the "stiffness"
>> adjustment feature, you can make changes to the settings without  jacking
>> the car up, just reach under the car and twist the knob. I find I run
>> around  7 clicks from soft (out of ~20) and Watkins Glen and 10 on smoother
>> tracks like Thompson and Lime Rock. I've had one fail, after launching the
>> car at Pocono, and a second set just wore out after 10 years.
>>
>> mike h
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 9, 2022 at 11:25 PM Brad Eells via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Amici,
>>>
>>> A quick shock question. My Mk3 had a custom set up for front ride height
>>> adjustability with a set of shocks that are not salvageable.
>>>
>>> I put a set of Koni's on the car during the rebuild but find the front
>>> riding high, or basically stock ride height.
>>>
>>> The only adjustable ride height shocks I can find is the GAZ model that
>>> appears to be only available at Rimmers.
>>>
>>> Is this the modern solution and any thoughts on how stiff to set them
>>> when installed?
>>>
>>> Thanks and Happy New Year!
>>>
>>>
>>> *Brad Eells*
>>> *Chino CA*
>>> *#72 FP 1969 Triumph Spitfire Mk3*
>>> *#35 DP 1962 Triumph TR4*
>>> *1965 Triumph TR4A IRS...for the road!*
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/ofracer at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
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From vfracing at aol.com  Tue Jan 11 07:13:05 2022
From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2022 14:13:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Have you ever wondered?
References: <2011844683.1920235.1641910385475.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2011844683.1920235.1641910385475@mail.yahoo.com>

FRIENDS:Have you ever wondered what those little letter marks mean on the heads of bolts in our Triumphs (and other British cars)? You know, the letters at the bottom, below the manufacturer's name (Rubbery Owen, etc.). ?Well, I did as well when looking at the best way to secure the cam sprocket to the camshaft.?Those letters designate the minimum tensile strength of the material in the bolt, just as the hash marks do on the heads of SAE bolt. ?So I put together the attached handy chart showing what the marks mean. ?I threw in some Metric as well, just for fun. When you go to the store you can pick the proper (or stronger) grade of bolt to replace the 50+ year old fasteners in your next project. ?If reusing the original fastens, which are perfectly fine for?many?applications, you will be sure not to mix up the fasteners from one application to the next (using a thermostat housing bolt on the cam drive could lead to disaster....).Of course, when replacing bolts with new ones it is a REALLY GOOD idea to make sure the threads are not put?in?shear by using?a shouldered bolt. ?To do this for the cam drive I needed to go to ARP and special order a 5/16-18 bolt with the proper grip length, and then shorten it so it won't bottom on the threads. ?ARP?part number?3AG1.250-2S (about $6 each direct from ARP)And yes, I've?totally?ignored the world of Whitworth. ?Enjoy.
Phil Gott

| Bolt Grade | Minimum Tensile Strength (000 psi) |
|
| AN*** | SAE* | British** | Metric* | 50 | 60 | 70 | 80 | 90 | 100 | 110 | 120 | 130 | 140 | 150 | 160 | 170 | 180 |
| ? | 2 > 3/4" | ? | ? | ? | 60 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | 2 to 3/4" | ? | ? | ? | ? | 74 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | P | ? | ? | ? | 70-90 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | Q | ? | ? | ? | ? | 80-100 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | R | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 90-110 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | S | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 100-120 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | T | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 110-130 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | 8.8 to 16mm | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 116 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | 8.8 > 16mm | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 120 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | 5 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 120 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| All | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 125 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | U | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 120-140 | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | V | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 130-150 | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | W | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 140-160 | ? | ? |
| ? | 8 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 150 | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | 10.9 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 151 | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | X | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 150-170 | ? |
| ? | ? | Y | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 160-180 |
| ? | ? | ? | 12.9 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 177 |
| Sources:??*Bolt Depot Inc. and **Trojansf.co.uk/technical/fastener-grades and ***Skyshop |
|

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From rjl6n at cstone.net  Tue Jan 11 09:54:55 2022
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (R. John Lye)
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2022 11:54:55 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Happy New Year and free TR4 project
Message-ID: <1641920095.1n55ufmtgk8gow8s@webmail.lumos.net>


	


Hi folks,

A local friend has a TR-4 project that needs to go away ASAP per his landlord.? The description
is below.? It is an early metal dash model, as expected for the 1962 year and he thinks that it is
a short bubble hood.? The car and parts are located near Charlottesville, VA in Nelson County.

Feel free to contact him directly at tdr3r at virginia.edu if you are interested in this car.

John
?



-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Happy New Year and free TR4 project
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2022 15:53:52 +0000
From: "Rose, Thomas D (tdr3r)" <tdr3r at virginia.edu>
To: "rjl6n at cstone.net" <rjl6n at cstone.net>

?

Hi John,

Hope you are doing well and making it through the weather!

?

I was wondering if you could let the group know about a TR4 project with lot?s of spare. It is free/ pay what you feel

?

1962 TR4 totally dismantled? extra dash e2 extra diff?s spare frame is a rolling chassis late TR3 early 4. Good bonnet boot lid salvageable doors front and rear body half wings all need repair.? Engine all there dismantled, SU?s gauges extra light buckets ect? Extra wheels? extra seats 

?

I have had it store the last 3 years but it has to go per landlord , so if anyone wants it please pass along my # 434 906 0471. Too many brit bikes needing the love too.

?

Thanks

Tom Rose





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From william.tobin31 at verizon.net  Wed Jan 12 10:50:25 2022
From: william.tobin31 at verizon.net (Bill Tobin)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2022 12:50:25 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Have you ever wondered?
In-Reply-To: <2011844683.1920235.1641910385475@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2011844683.1920235.1641910385475.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2011844683.1920235.1641910385475@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a881d5bd-a5fd-1e2b-0959-83d6097ce6f1@verizon.net>

Thanks. Great info.

Stay warm. I skied yesterday in Western NY: 3 degrees at 9AM. Warmed up 
to 12 by 1PM.

Cheers, Bill

On 1/11/2022 9:13 AM, Phil Gott via Fot wrote:
> FRIENDS:
> Have you ever wondered what those little letter marks mean on the 
> heads of bolts in our Triumphs (and other British cars)? You know, the 
> letters at the bottom, below the manufacturer's name (Rubbery Owen, 
> etc.).
> Well, I did as well when looking at the best way to secure the cam 
> sprocket to the camshaft.
> Those letters designate the minimum tensile strength of the material 
> in the bolt, just as the hash marks do on the heads of SAE bolt. ?So I 
> put together the attached handy chart showing what the marks mean. ?I 
> threw in some Metric as well, just for fun. When you go to the store 
> you can pick the proper (or stronger) grade of bolt to replace the 50+ 
> year old fasteners in your next project. ?If reusing the original 
> fastens, which are perfectly fine for?many?applications, you will be 
> sure not to mix up the fasteners from one application to the next 
> (using a thermostat housing bolt on the cam drive could lead to 
> disaster....).
> Of course, when replacing bolts with new ones it is a REALLY GOOD idea 
> to make sure the threads are not put?in?shear by using?a shouldered 
> bolt. ?To do this for the cam drive I needed to go to ARP and special 
> order a 5/16-18 bolt with the proper grip length, and then shorten it 
> so it won't bottom on the threads. ?ARP?part number 3AG1.250-2S (about 
> $6 each direct from ARP)
> And yes, I've?totally?ignored the world of Whitworth.
> Enjoy.
>
> Phil Gott
>
> Bolt Grade 	Minimum Tensile Strength (000 psi)
> AN*** 	SAE* 	British** 	Metric* 	50 	60 	70 	80 	90 	100 	110 	120 
> 130 	140 	150 	160 	170 	180
> 	2 > 3/4" 				60 												
> 	2 to 3/4" 					74 											
> 		P 				70-90 									
> 		Q 					80-100 								
> 		R 						90-110 							
> 		S 							100-120 						
> 		T 								110-130 					
> 			8.8 to 16mm 							116 						
> 			8.8 > 16mm 								120 						
> 	5 										120 						
> All 											125 					
> 		U 									120-140 				
> 		V 										130-150 			
> 		W 											140-160 		
> 	8 													150 			
> 			10.9 											151 			
> 		X 												150-170 	
> 		Y 													160-180
> 			12.9 													177
> Sources:??*Bolt Depot Inc. and 
> **Trojansf.co.uk/technical/fastener-grades and ***Skyshop
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://autox.team.net/archive  http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/william.tobin31 at verizon.net
>
>
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From fintouch at ptd.net  Wed Jan 12 14:54:19 2022
From: fintouch at ptd.net (finishing Touch)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2022 16:54:19 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Dash wood?
Message-ID: <4e7846c2-adf3-3d02-0984-c89b0288c042@ptd.net>

I'm planning on? re-laminating a TR6 dash and was wondering if anyone 
knows what wood species Triumph used on the TR6 dash. I'd like to stay 
as close to original as possible when purchasing the veneer.? In doing 
some on-line research, I've seen walnut, birch, red oak, and burl maple. 
I'm leaning towards walnut, but was hoping to be sure of the originality.

Thanks,
Mike Kurtz

From bownes at seiri.com  Wed Jan 12 15:05:49 2022
From: bownes at seiri.com (Bob Bownes -Seiri)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2022 17:05:49 -0500
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Dash wood?
In-Reply-To: <4e7846c2-adf3-3d02-0984-c89b0288c042@ptd.net>
References: <4e7846c2-adf3-3d02-0984-c89b0288c042@ptd.net>
Message-ID: <120417AA-C700-478B-A955-1B586AA66993@seiri.com>


It is something cheap, light colored, a bit soft, and fine grain. Not oak or any burl. My guess is birch and a medium dark stain. 

I replaced mine with a solid cherry one. 

Bob. 

> On Jan 12, 2022, at 16:55, finishing Touch via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?I'm planning on  re-laminating a TR6 dash and was wondering if anyone knows what wood species Triumph used on the TR6 dash. I'd like to stay as close to original as possible when purchasing the veneer.  In doing some on-line research, I've seen walnut, birch, red oak, and burl maple. I'm leaning towards walnut, but was hoping to be sure of the originality.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike Kurtz
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
> 
> 

From 4msonset at gmail.com  Wed Jan 12 17:37:54 2022
From: 4msonset at gmail.com (J Wagner)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2022 16:37:54 -0800
Subject: [Fot] TR6 Dash wood?
In-Reply-To: <120417AA-C700-478B-A955-1B586AA66993@seiri.com>
References: <120417AA-C700-478B-A955-1B586AA66993@seiri.com>
Message-ID: <E4276052-D0EB-4AE6-BD49-2B8AC1171735@gmail.com>

Going on decades old memories, I seem to recall that my own research found that they used ?english walnut? which does look different from a veneer labeled ?walnut? in the USA.

I did some quick googling to find an example.  I think this link has good images.   I have no experience with them.

EUROPEAN WALNUT WOOD VENEER
http://www.woodveneer4u.co.uk/WalnutWoodVeneerEuropean.html

Secondly, I misplaced my research notes when I was trying to develop a custom dash? so recall finding a clear coat that is used on real wood veneers in aircraft to meet fire codes.   I thought that would be the ticket for a vintage race dash.   I wish I could put my hands on that info for you!  

?Justin 

> On Jan 12, 2022, at 2:06 PM, Bob Bownes -Seiri via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> It is something cheap, light colored, a bit soft, and fine grain. Not oak or any burl. My guess is birch and a medium dark stain. 
> 
> I replaced mine with a solid cherry one. 
> 
> Bob. 
> 
>> On Jan 12, 2022, at 16:55, finishing Touch via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?I'm planning on  re-laminating a TR6 dash and was wondering if anyone knows what wood species Triumph used on the TR6 dash. I'd like to stay as close to original as possible when purchasing the veneer.  In doing some on-line research, I've seen walnut, birch, red oak, and burl maple. I'm leaning towards walnut, but was hoping to be sure of the originality.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Mike Kurtz
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bownes at web9.com
>> 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/4msonset at gmail.com
> 
> 

From macdonaldp at rogers.com  Thu Jan 13 06:23:50 2022
From: macdonaldp at rogers.com (Paul MacDonald)
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2022 08:23:50 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Devin
References: <001901d80880$cee1f2e0$6ca5d8a0$.ref@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <001901d80880$cee1f2e0$6ca5d8a0$@rogers.com>

https://www.rcnmag.com/news/devin-sports-cars-lives?fbclid=IwAR34zRoyAZQlJJZ
bHMlhid_DT0weJMAQlm3DwvDKIgmZrBWDpyNZeaf7ttY  

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From sbarr at McCarty-Law.com  Thu Jan 13 09:15:58 2022
From: sbarr at McCarty-Law.com (Barr, Scott)
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2022 16:15:58 +0000
Subject: [Fot] Devin
In-Reply-To: <001901d80880$cee1f2e0$6ca5d8a0$@rogers.com>
References: <001901d80880$cee1f2e0$6ca5d8a0$.ref@rogers.com>
 <001901d80880$cee1f2e0$6ca5d8a0$@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <SJ0PR15MB455203345F9D0BB867EE10EEE1539@SJ0PR15MB4552.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Neat stuff.  I recognize the red #4 on their home page.  It's raced here in the Midwest.  Cool, fast car.

Scott (B.)

From: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Paul MacDonald via Fot
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2022 7:24 AM
To: Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Fot] Devin

https://www.rcnmag.com/news/devin-sports-cars-lives?fbclid=IwAR34zRoyAZQlJJZbHMlhid_DT0weJMAQlm3DwvDKIgmZrBWDpyNZeaf7ttY
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From jaboruch at yahoo.com  Wed Jan 12 10:38:34 2022
From: jaboruch at yahoo.com (Joe)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2022 12:38:34 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Have you ever wondered?
In-Reply-To: <2011844683.1920235.1641910385475@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2011844683.1920235.1641910385475@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <58002382-B5BF-464A-8E7D-B66BFB40F65D@yahoo.com>

Thanks Phil.  You mentioned using ARP fasteners for the cam sprocket.  Do you have any data to add in for ARP stuff?   JoeB

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 12, 2022, at 12:16 PM, Phil Gott via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> FRIENDS:
> Have you ever wondered what those little letter marks mean on the heads of bolts in our Triumphs (and other British cars)? You know, the letters at the bottom, below the manufacturer's name (Rubbery Owen, etc.).  
> Well, I did as well when looking at the best way to secure the cam sprocket to the camshaft. 
> Those letters designate the minimum tensile strength of the material in the bolt, just as the hash marks do on the heads of SAE bolt.  So I put together the attached handy chart showing what the marks mean.  I threw in some Metric as well, just for fun. When you go to the store you can pick the proper (or stronger) grade of bolt to replace the 50+ year old fasteners in your next project.  If reusing the original fastens, which are perfectly fine for many applications, you will be sure not to mix up the fasteners from one application to the next (using a thermostat housing bolt on the cam drive could lead to disaster....).
> Of course, when replacing bolts with new ones it is a REALLY GOOD idea to make sure the threads are not put in shear by using a shouldered bolt.  To do this for the cam drive I needed to go to ARP and special order a 5/16-18 bolt with the proper grip length, and then shorten it so it won't bottom on the threads.  ARP part number 3AG1.250-2S (about $6 each direct from ARP)
> And yes, I've totally ignored the world of Whitworth.  
> Enjoy.
> 
> Phil Gott
> 
> Bolt Grade	Minimum Tensile Strength (000 psi)
> AN***	SAE*	British**	Metric*	50	60	70	80	90	100	110	120	130	140	150	160	170	180
>  	2 > 3/4"	 	 	 	60	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 
>  	2 to 3/4"	 	 	 	 	74	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 
>  	 	P	 	 	 	70-90	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 
>  	 	Q	 	 	 	 	80-100	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 
>  	 	R	 	 	 	 	 	90-110	 	 	 	 	 	 	 
>  	 	S	 	 	 	 	 	 	100-120	 	 	 	 	 	 
>  	 	T	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	110-130	 	 	 	 	 
>  	 	 	8.8 to 16mm	 	 	 	 	 	 	116	 	 	 	 	 	 
>  	 	 	8.8 > 16mm	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	120	 	 	 	 	 	 
>  	5	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	120	 	 	 	 	 	 
> All	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	125	 	 	 	 	 
>  	 	U	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	120-140	 	 	 	 
>  	 	V	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	130-150	 	 	 
>  	 	W	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	140-160	 	 
>  	8	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	150	 	 	 
>  	 	 	10.9	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	151	 	 	 
>  	 	X	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	150-170	 
>  	 	Y	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	160-180
>  	 	 	12.9	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	177
> Sources:  *Bolt Depot Inc. and **Trojansf.co.uk/technical/fastener-grades and ***Skyshop
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at yahoo.com
> 
> 
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From ofracer at gmail.com  Wed Jan 12 10:45:37 2022
From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth)
Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2022 12:45:37 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Have you ever wondered?
In-Reply-To: <58002382-B5BF-464A-8E7D-B66BFB40F65D@yahoo.com>
References: <2011844683.1920235.1641910385475@mail.yahoo.com>
 <58002382-B5BF-464A-8E7D-B66BFB40F65D@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAO0FjVYy-f9aOrmbZvTA0tP36tYbVjyTrdzFFLqN7ydLwp=2OA@mail.gmail.com>

FYI, Phil is Chief of Tech for the Historic Racing Group. I've put his
chart, along with some other reference material, on the HRG website. If he
has some ARP info or other updates to the chart, I'll post them there as
well.

https://historicracinggroup.com/reference-material.php

thanks
mike h

On Wed, Jan 12, 2022 at 12:38 PM Joe <jaboruch at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Thanks Phil.  You mentioned using ARP fasteners for the cam sprocket.  Do
> you have any data to add in for ARP stuff?   JoeB
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 12, 2022, at 12:16 PM, Phil Gott via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> ?
> FRIENDS:
> Have you ever wondered what those little letter marks mean on the heads of
> bolts in our Triumphs (and other British cars)? You know, the letters at
> the bottom, below the manufacturer's name (Rubbery Owen, etc.).
> Well, I did as well when looking at the best way to secure the cam
> sprocket to the camshaft.
> Those letters designate the minimum tensile strength of the material in
> the bolt, just as the hash marks do on the heads of SAE bolt.  So I put
> together the attached handy chart showing what the marks mean.  I threw in
> some Metric as well, just for fun. When you go to the store you can pick
> the proper (or stronger) grade of bolt to replace the 50+ year old
> fasteners in your next project.  If reusing the original fastens, which are
> perfectly fine for many applications, you will be sure not to mix up the
> fasteners from one application to the next (using a thermostat housing bolt
> on the cam drive could lead to disaster....).
> Of course, when replacing bolts with new ones it is a REALLY GOOD idea to
> make sure the threads are not put in shear by using a shouldered bolt.  To
> do this for the cam drive I needed to go to ARP and special order a 5/16-18
> bolt with the proper grip length, and then shorten it so it won't bottom on
> the threads.  ARP part number 3AG1.250-2S (about $6 each direct from ARP)
> And yes, I've totally ignored the world of Whitworth.
> Enjoy.
>
> Phil Gott
>
> Bolt Grade Minimum Tensile Strength (000 psi)
> AN*** SAE* British** Metric* 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160
> 170 180
>   2 > 3/4"       60
>   2 to 3/4"         74
>     P       70-90
>     Q         80-100
>     R           90-110
>     S             100-120
>     T               110-130
>       8.8 to 16mm             116
>       8.8 > 16mm               120
>   5                   120
> All                     125
>     U                 120-140
>     V                   130-150
>     W                     140-160
>   8                         150
>       10.9                     151
>     X                       150-170
>     Y                         160-180
>       12.9                         177
> Sources:  *Bolt Depot Inc. and **Trojansf.co.uk/technical/fastener-grades
> and ***Skyshop
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at yahoo.com
>
>
>
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From vfracing at aol.com  Thu Jan 13 04:19:18 2022
From: vfracing at aol.com (Philip Gott)
Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2022 06:19:18 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Have you ever wondered?
In-Reply-To: <58002382-B5BF-464A-8E7D-B66BFB40F65D@yahoo.com>
References: <58002382-B5BF-464A-8E7D-B66BFB40F65D@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <A64E5EEC-CB30-4B10-8AB3-D0A1E1587252@aol.com>

Joe;
Yes, I can do that. Give me a few days.
Phil

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 12, 2022, at 12:38 PM, Joe <jaboruch at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks Phil.  You mentioned using ARP fasteners for the cam sprocket.  Do you have any data to add in for ARP stuff?   JoeB
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jan 12, 2022, at 12:16 PM, Phil Gott via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> FRIENDS:
>> Have you ever wondered what those little letter marks mean on the heads of bolts in our Triumphs (and other British cars)? You know, the letters at the bottom, below the manufacturer's name (Rubbery Owen, etc.).  
>> Well, I did as well when looking at the best way to secure the cam sprocket to the camshaft. 
>> Those letters designate the minimum tensile strength of the material in the bolt, just as the hash marks do on the heads of SAE bolt.  So I put together the attached handy chart showing what the marks mean.  I threw in some Metric as well, just for fun. When you go to the store you can pick the proper (or stronger) grade of bolt to replace the 50+ year old fasteners in your next project.  If reusing the original fastens, which are perfectly fine for many applications, you will be sure not to mix up the fasteners from one application to the next (using a thermostat housing bolt on the cam drive could lead to disaster....).
>> Of course, when replacing bolts with new ones it is a REALLY GOOD idea to make sure the threads are not put in shear by using a shouldered bolt.  To do this for the cam drive I needed to go to ARP and special order a 5/16-18 bolt with the proper grip length, and then shorten it so it won't bottom on the threads.  ARP part number 3AG1.250-2S (about $6 each direct from ARP)
>> And yes, I've totally ignored the world of Whitworth.  
>> Enjoy.
>> 
>> Phil Gott
>> 
>> Bolt Grade	Minimum Tensile Strength (000 psi)
>> AN***	SAE*	British**	Metric*	50	60	70	80	90	100	110	120	130	140	150	160	170	180
>>  	2 > 3/4"	 	 	 	60	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 
>>  	2 to 3/4"	 	 	 	 	74	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 
>>  	 	P	 	 	 	70-90	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 
>>  	 	Q	 	 	 	 	80-100	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 
>>  	 	R	 	 	 	 	 	90-110	 	 	 	 	 	 	 
>>  	 	S	 	 	 	 	 	 	100-120	 	 	 	 	 	 
>>  	 	T	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	110-130	 	 	 	 	 
>>  	 	 	8.8 to 16mm	 	 	 	 	 	 	116	 	 	 	 	 	 
>>  	 	 	8.8 > 16mm	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	120	 	 	 	 	 	 
>>  	5	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	120	 	 	 	 	 	 
>> All	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	125	 	 	 	 	 
>>  	 	U	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	120-140	 	 	 	 
>>  	 	V	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	130-150	 	 	 
>>  	 	W	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	140-160	 	 
>>  	8	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	150	 	 	 
>>  	 	 	10.9	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	151	 	 	 
>>  	 	X	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	150-170	 
>>  	 	Y	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	160-180
>>  	 	 	12.9	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	 	177
>> Sources:  *Bolt Depot Inc. and **Trojansf.co.uk/technical/fastener-grades and ***Skyshop
> <Bolt Grades and Strengths.xlsx>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at yahoo.com
>> 
>> 
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From vfracing at aol.com  Sun Jan 16 07:57:45 2022
From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 14:57:45 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] ARP and other additions to the bolt material strength chart
References: <1973592743.335762.1642345065386.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1973592743.335762.1642345065386@mail.yahoo.com>

Amici:
Joe Boruch suggested that ARP bolt materials be added to the chart and Mike Harmuth suggested pdf format, so here they are!
Also added is the sometimes used British nomenclature of noting the tensile strength range, measured in tons per square inch, instead of a letter designation.
Remember, tensile strength is not the only consideration. ?Ductility and fatigue life are also critical, as are thread formation and location. ?For example, note that wheel studs, critically loaded components, are?not made of the strongest material. ?SAE wheel studs have a tensile strength similar to a grade 5 bolt but have a special composition all their own to withstand millions of reverse loading cycles without fatigue.
Enjoy!
Phil Gott

| Bolt Grade | Minimum Tensile Strength (000 psi) |
|
| AN*** | SAE* | British** | ARP**** | Metric* | 50 | 60 | 70 | 80 | 90 | 100 | 110 | 120 | 130 | 140 | 150 | 160 | 170 | 180 | 190 | 200 | 210 | 220 | 230 | 240 | 250 | 260 | 270 | 280 | 290 | 300 | 310 |
| ? | 2 > 3/4" | ? | ? | ? | ? | 60 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | 2 to 3/4" | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 74 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | P | ? | ? | ? | ? | 70-90 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | Q | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 80-100 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | R or "45-55" | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 90-110 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | S | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 100-120 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | T? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 110-130 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | ? | 8.8 to 16mm | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 116 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | ? | 8.8 > 16mm | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 120 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | 5 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 120 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| All | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 125 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | U | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 120-140 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | V | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 130-150 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | W | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 140-160 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | 8 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 150 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | ? | 10.9 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 151 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | X | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 150-170 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | Y | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 160-180 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | ? | 12.9 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 177 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | Titanium | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 180 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | 8740 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 180-210 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | ARP 2000 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 220 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | L19 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 260 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | 625 Plus | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 260-280 | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | ARP 325 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 260-280 | ? | ? | ? |
| ? | ? | ? | Aermet | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 290-310 |
| Sources:??*Bolt Depot Inc. and **Trojansf.co.uk/technical/fastener-grades and ***Skyshop and ****ARP web page. ?ARP bolt grades are registered trademarks of ARP or CRS Holdings Inc. |
|

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From vfracing at aol.com  Sun Jan 16 10:09:31 2022
From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 17:09:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] ARP and other additions to the bolt material strength
 chart
In-Reply-To: <000201d80af0$ab97c9f0$02c75dd0$@klaenv.com>
References: <1973592743.335762.1642345065386.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1973592743.335762.1642345065386@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000201d80af0$ab97c9f0$02c75dd0$@klaenv.com>
Message-ID: <189392464.426627.1642352971707@mail.yahoo.com>

Good point, Ken;
This chart was made so that ?the used original fasteners can be replaced with new ones of equal or greater strength!
Regards
Phil


-----Original Message-----
From: kknight at klaenv.com
To: vfracing at aol.com
Sent: Sun, Jan 16, 2022 10:49 am
Subject: RE: [Fot] ARP and other additions to the bolt material strength chart

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All great information to have, well done sir.? 

 ?

Everyone should remember that bolts are consumable items.? Any stressed bolt in a race engine or suspension has a life expectancy.? No one should be using ANY critical fastener in a race motor that is original.? A few dollars spent could save thousands!? If it is critical in your suspension your butt is on the line if it fails.? Better safe than sorry.? Good racing all.

 ?

Ken 

 ?

From: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Phil Gott via Fot
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2022 6:58 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] ARP and other additions to the bolt material strength chart

 ?

Amici:

 ?

Joe Boruch suggested that ARP bolt materials be added to the chart and Mike Harmuth suggested pdf format, so here they are!

 ?

Also added is the sometimes used British nomenclature of noting the tensile strength range, measured in tons per square inch, instead of a letter designation.

 ?

Remember, tensile strength is not the only consideration. ?Ductility and fatigue life are also critical, as are thread formation and location. ?For example, note that wheel studs, critically loaded components, are?not made of the strongest material. ?SAE wheel studs have a tensile strength similar to a grade 5 bolt but have a special composition all their own to withstand millions of reverse loading cycles without fatigue.

 ?

Enjoy!

 ?

Phil Gott

 ?

| 
Bolt Grade
 | 
Minimum Tensile Strength (000 psi)
 |  |
|  |  |
| 
AN***
 | 
SAE*
 | 
British**
 | 
ARP****
 | 
Metric*
 | 
50
 | 
60
 | 
70
 | 
80
 | 
90
 | 
100
 | 
110
 | 
120
 | 
130
 | 
140
 | 
150
 | 
160
 | 
170
 | 
180
 | 
190
 | 
200
 | 
210
 | 
220
 | 
230
 | 
240
 | 
250
 | 
260
 | 
270
 | 
280
 | 
290
 | 
300
 | 
310
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
2 > 3/4"
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
60
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
2 to 3/4"
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
74
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
P
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
70-90
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
Q
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
80-100
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
R or "45-55"
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
90-110
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
S
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
100-120
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
T?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
110-130
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
8.8 to 16mm
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
116
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
8.8 > 16mm
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
120
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
5
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
120
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
All
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
125
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
U
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
120-140
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
V
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
130-150
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
W
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
140-160
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
8
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
150
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
10.9
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
151
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
X
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
150-170
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
Y
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
160-180
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
12.9
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
177
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
Titanium
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
180
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
8740
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
180-210
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
ARP 2000
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
220
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
L19
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
260
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
625 Plus
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
260-280
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
ARP 325
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
260-280
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 |  |  |
| 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
Aermet
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
?
 | 
290-310
 |  |  |
| 
Sources:??*Bolt Depot Inc. and **Trojansf.co.uk/technical/fastener-grades and ***Skyshop and ****ARP web page. ?ARP bolt grades are registered trademarks of ARP or CRS Holdings Inc.
 |  |  |
|  |  |


 ?
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From enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au  Sun Jan 16 15:09:16 2022
From: enquiries at roadandtrack.net.au (Enquiries Road & Track)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 09:09:16 +1100
Subject: [Fot] ARP and other additions to the bolt material strength
 chart
In-Reply-To: <189392464.426627.1642352971707@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1973592743.335762.1642345065386.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1973592743.335762.1642345065386@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000201d80af0$ab97c9f0$02c75dd0$@klaenv.com>
 <189392464.426627.1642352971707@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CA+UW8b0Tz9hwqBjnbT5RfzAv5+W_Vu01w2jWWeFbFuwbL26VVw@mail.gmail.com>

one should not forget, that  the torque applied to a bolt /nut is designed
to stretch the fastner and that stretch plays a role in its ability not to
loosen in service

Simplistically, the stronger and larger the fastener, the higher the
torque needed. swapping fasteners without understanding this, and using
?riginal"torque values, can end in disaster

also, the tension induced in any fastener is directly linked to the
lubricant used and quality of the thread form. in many cases, original
makers specified the lubricant (if any) that should be applied to their set
torque valve. high 'strength" fasteners like ARP, often come with highly
specialized lubricant and the induced tension is greatly altered if you
change that.  that can be easily proven when measuring the stretch on a
bolt for any given torque value

many modern makers are using fasteners in engines etc that are not finally
"tightened" with a conventional torque wrench, but rather an angular value
is used to ensure the fastener is stretched to the exact amount needed.

in extremely sensitive applications (not usually a car) , bolts are
directly stretched with hydraulic pullers and the nut then tightened to
come predefined value


Terry


On Mon, Jan 17, 2022 at 4:10 AM Phil Gott via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Good point, Ken;
>
> This chart was made so that  the used original fasteners can be replaced
> with new ones of equal or greater strength!
>
> Regards
>
> Phil
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: kknight at klaenv.com
> To: vfracing at aol.com
> Sent: Sun, Jan 16, 2022 10:49 am
> Subject: RE: [Fot] ARP and other additions to the bolt material strength
> chart
>
> All great information to have, well done sir.
>
>
>
> Everyone should remember that bolts are consumable items.  Any stressed
> bolt in a race engine or suspension has a life expectancy.  No one should
> be using ANY critical fastener in a race motor that is original.  A few
> dollars spent could save thousands!  If it is critical in your suspension
> your butt is on the line if it fails.  Better safe than sorry.  Good racing
> all.
>
>
>
> Ken
>
>
>
> *From:* Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Phil Gott via Fot
> *Sent:* Sunday, January 16, 2022 6:58 AM
> *To:* fot at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Fot] ARP and other additions to the bolt material strength
> chart
>
>
>
> Amici:
>
>
>
> Joe Boruch suggested that ARP bolt materials be added to the chart and
> Mike Harmuth suggested pdf format, so here they are!
>
>
>
> Also added is the sometimes used British nomenclature of noting the
> tensile strength range, measured in tons per square inch, instead of a
> letter designation.
>
>
>
> Remember, tensile strength is not the only consideration.  Ductility and
> fatigue life are also critical, as are thread formation and location.  For
> example, note that wheel studs, critically loaded components, are not made
> of the strongest material.  SAE wheel studs have a tensile strength similar
> to a grade 5 bolt but have a special composition all their own to withstand
> millions of reverse loading cycles without fatigue.
>
>
>
> Enjoy!
>
>
>
> Phil Gott
>
>
>
> *Bolt Grade*
>
> *Minimum Tensile Strength (000 psi)*
>
> *AN****
>
> *SAE**
>
> *British***
>
> *ARP*****
>
> *Metric**
>
> *50*
>
> *60*
>
> *70*
>
> *80*
>
> *90*
>
> *100*
>
> *110*
>
> *120*
>
> *130*
>
> *140*
>
> *150*
>
> *160*
>
> *170*
>
> *180*
>
> *190*
>
> *200*
>
> *210*
>
> *220*
>
> *230*
>
> *240*
>
> *250*
>
> *260*
>
> *270*
>
> *280*
>
> *290*
>
> *300*
>
> *310*
>
>
>
> 2 > 3/4"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 60
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 2 to 3/4"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 74
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> P
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 70-90
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
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>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Q
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 80-100
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> R or "45-55"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 90-110
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
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>
>
>
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>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> S
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 100-120
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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>
>
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>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
> T
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 110-130
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 8.8 to 16mm
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 116
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 8.8 > 16mm
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 120
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 5
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 120
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> All
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 125
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> U
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 120-140
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> V
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 130-150
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> W
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 140-160
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 150
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
> 10.9
>
>
>
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>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 151
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> X
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 150-170
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Y
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 160-180
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 12.9
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 177
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Titanium
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 180
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 8740
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 180-210
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ARP 2000
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 220
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> L19
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 260
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 625 Plus
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 260-280
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ARP 325
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 260-280
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Aermet
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 290-310
>
> Sources:  *Bolt Depot Inc. and **Trojansf.co.uk/technical/fastener-grades
> and ***Skyshop and ****ARP web page.  ARP bolt grades are registered
> trademarks of ARP or CRS Holdings Inc.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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>
>
>
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From fubog1 at aol.com  Mon Jan 17 06:09:11 2022
From: fubog1 at aol.com (fubog1)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 13:09:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] ARP and other additions to the bolt material strength
 chart
In-Reply-To: <CA+UW8b0Tz9hwqBjnbT5RfzAv5+W_Vu01w2jWWeFbFuwbL26VVw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1973592743.335762.1642345065386.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1973592743.335762.1642345065386@mail.yahoo.com>
 <000201d80af0$ab97c9f0$02c75dd0$@klaenv.com>
 <189392464.426627.1642352971707@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CA+UW8b0Tz9hwqBjnbT5RfzAv5+W_Vu01w2jWWeFbFuwbL26VVw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <923555650.1420195.1642424951289@mail.yahoo.com>

 Good thread & all good info here.A great source of more than you probably wanted to know about the subject is the late great Carrol Smiths book "Screw to Win" ("nuts, bolts, fasteners and plumbing" being the official title).For those who may not be familiar with his "To Win" series, they are an excellent resource...

Glen Efinger
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Enquiries Road & Track via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: vfracing at aol.com
Cc: fot at autox.team.net <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Jan 16, 2022 5:09 pm
Subject: Re: [Fot] ARP and other additions to the bolt material strength chart

one should not forget, that? the torque applied to a bolt /nut is designed to stretch the fastner?and that stretch plays a role in its ability not to loosen in service
Simplistically, the stronger and larger the?fastener, the higher the torque?needed. swapping fasteners without understanding this, and using ?riginal"torque values, can end in disaster
also, the tension induced in any fastener?is directly linked to the lubricant used and quality of the thread form. in many cases, original makers specified the lubricant (if any) that should be applied to their set torque valve. high 'strength"?fasteners?like ARP, often come with highly specialized?lubricant and the induced tension is greatly altered if you change that.? that can be easily proven?when measuring the stretch on a bolt for any given torque value
many modern makers are using fasteners in engines etc that are not finally "tightened" with a conventional torque wrench, but rather an angular value is used to ensure the fastener?is stretched to the exact amount needed.?
in extremely sensitive applications (not usually a car) , bolts are directly stretched with hydraulic pullers and the nut then tightened to come predefined value


Terry

On Mon, Jan 17, 2022 at 4:10 AM Phil Gott via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

Good point, Ken;
This chart was made so that ?the used original fasteners can be replaced with new ones of equal or greater strength!
Regards
Phil


-----Original Message-----
From: kknight at klaenv.com
To: vfracing at aol.com
Sent: Sun, Jan 16, 2022 10:49 am
Subject: RE: [Fot] ARP and other additions to the bolt material strength chart

All great information to have, well done sir.?  ?Everyone should remember that bolts are consumable items.? Any stressed bolt in a race engine or suspension has a life expectancy.? No one should be using ANY critical fastener in a race motor that is original.? A few dollars spent could save thousands!? If it is critical in your suspension your butt is on the line if it fails.? Better safe than sorry.? Good racing all. ?Ken  ?From: Fot <fot-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Phil Gott via Fot
Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2022 6:58 AM
To: fot at autox.team.net
Subject: [Fot] ARP and other additions to the bolt material strength chart ?Amici: ?Joe Boruch suggested that ARP bolt materials be added to the chart and Mike Harmuth suggested pdf format, so here they are! ?Also added is the sometimes used British nomenclature of noting the tensile strength range, measured in tons per square inch, instead of a letter designation. ?Remember, tensile strength is not the only consideration.? Ductility and fatigue life are also critical, as are thread formation and location.? For example, note that wheel studs, critically loaded components, are?not made of the strongest material.? SAE wheel studs have a tensile strength similar to a grade 5 bolt but have a special composition all their own to withstand millions of reverse loading cycles without fatigue. ?Enjoy! ?Phil Gott ?
| Bolt Grade | Minimum Tensile Strength (000 psi) |  |
|  |  |
| AN*** | SAE* | British** | ARP**** | Metric* | 50 | 60 | 70 | 80 | 90 | 100 | 110 | 120 | 130 | 140 | 150 | 160 | 170 | 180 | 190 | 200 | 210 | 220 | 230 | 240 | 250 | 260 | 270 | 280 | 290 | 300 | 310 |  |  |
| ? | 2 > 3/4" | ? | ? | ? | ? | 60 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | 2 to 3/4" | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 74 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | P | ? | ? | ? | ? | 70-90 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | Q | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 80-100 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | R or "45-55" | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 90-110 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | S | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 100-120 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | T? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 110-130 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | ? | ? | 8.8 to 16mm | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 116 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | ? | ? | 8.8 > 16mm | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 120 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | 5 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 120 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| All | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 125 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | U | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 120-140 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | V | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 130-150 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | W | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 140-160 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | 8 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 150 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | ? | ? | 10.9 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 151 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | X | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 150-170 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | Y | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 160-180 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | ? | ? | 12.9 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 177 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | ? | Titanium | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 180 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | ? | 8740 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 180-210 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | ? | ARP 2000 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 220 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | ? | L19 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 260 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | ? | 625 Plus | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 260-280 | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | ? | ARP 325 | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 260-280 | ? | ? | ? |  |  |
| ? | ? | ? | Aermet | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | ? | 290-310 |  |  |
| Sources:??*Bolt Depot Inc. and **Trojansf.co.uk/technical/fastener-grades and ***Skyshop and ****ARP web page.? ARP bolt grades are registered trademarks of ARP or CRS Holdings Inc. |  |  |
|  |  |

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From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Jan 17 10:08:51 2022
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 12:08:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
Message-ID: <6FC473BF-9D5B-45B1-9116-E9B8CFFE4333@me.com>

I recently ordered a new Smiths Tach from Merlin Motorsports in England and it came with their catalog.

They have aluminum hubs that they note fit Vitesse and Herald stub axles and bearings.  These are the only front hubs they offer.
I thought it odd that they would make aluminum hubs just for the Vitesse and Herald. Do these overlap with the Spitfire and GT6?  

BTW, nice catalogue offerings, somewhat in the Pegasus range, but with more gear and a bit less hardware.

Scott
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From jsukey at gmail.com  Mon Jan 17 10:29:12 2022
From: jsukey at gmail.com (Jason Sukey)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 12:29:12 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
In-Reply-To: <6FC473BF-9D5B-45B1-9116-E9B8CFFE4333@me.com>
References: <6FC473BF-9D5B-45B1-9116-E9B8CFFE4333@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAMmo4o-Y5CdUp=4z4LbXAjHcLp6MrxRbfmnJ4=o5f6tYmpoi5g@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Scott,
My understanding is that GT6 hubs = Vitesse,

and Spitfire hubs = Herald



Jason


On Mon, Jan 17, 2022, 12:08 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> I recently ordered a new Smiths Tach from Merlin Motorsports in England
> and it came with their catalog.
>
> They have aluminum hubs that they note fit Vitesse and Herald stub axles
> and bearings.  These are the only front hubs they offer.
> I thought it odd that they would make aluminum hubs just for the Vitesse
> and Herald. Do these overlap with the Spitfire and GT6?
>
> BTW, nice catalogue offerings, somewhat in the Pegasus range, but with
> more gear and a bit less hardware.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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From gt6steve at aol.com  Mon Jan 17 10:36:35 2022
From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 17:36:35 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
In-Reply-To: <CAMmo4o-Y5CdUp=4z4LbXAjHcLp6MrxRbfmnJ4=o5f6tYmpoi5g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6FC473BF-9D5B-45B1-9116-E9B8CFFE4333@me.com>
 <CAMmo4o-Y5CdUp=4z4LbXAjHcLp6MrxRbfmnJ4=o5f6tYmpoi5g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1446394031.1500249.1642440995901@mail.yahoo.com>

I would expect that is because most of the old open wheelers used our uprights. I know lotuses, Griffith and Formula Fords had them undrilled?for the trunnion grease


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Monday, January 17, 2022, 9:31 AM, Jason Sukey via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi Scott,?My understanding is that GT6 hubs = Vitesse,?
and Spitfire hubs = Herald?


Jason?

On Mon, Jan 17, 2022, 12:08 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

I recently ordered a new Smiths Tach from Merlin Motorsports in England and it came with their catalog.
They have aluminum hubs that they note fit Vitesse and Herald stub axles and bearings.? These are the only front hubs they offer.I thought it odd that they would make aluminum hubs just for the Vitesse and Herald. Do these overlap with the Spitfire and GT6? ?
BTW, nice catalogue offerings, somewhat in the Pegasus range, but with more gear and a bit less hardware.
Scott_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

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From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Jan 17 10:39:05 2022
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 12:39:05 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
In-Reply-To: <1446394031.1500249.1642440995901@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <6FC473BF-9D5B-45B1-9116-E9B8CFFE4333@me.com>
 <CAMmo4o-Y5CdUp=4z4LbXAjHcLp6MrxRbfmnJ4=o5f6tYmpoi5g@mail.gmail.com>
 <1446394031.1500249.1642440995901@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D8C215D6-282F-4E27-B106-3C4023FF7650@me.com>

there?s still a source for undrilled ones I can dig up.  That?s what I?m running.

On Jan 17, 2022, at 12:36 PM, Gt6steve at aol.com wrote:

I would expect that is because most of the old open wheelers used our uprights. I know lotuses, Griffith and Formula Fords had them undrilled for the trunnion grease


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661>

On Monday, January 17, 2022, 9:31 AM, Jason Sukey via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi Scott, 
My understanding is that GT6 hubs = Vitesse, 

and Spitfire hubs = Herald 



Jason 


On Mon, Jan 17, 2022, 12:08 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net <mailto:fot at autox.team.net>> wrote:
I recently ordered a new Smiths Tach from Merlin Motorsports in England and it came with their catalog.

They have aluminum hubs that they note fit Vitesse and Herald stub axles and bearings.  These are the only front hubs they offer.
I thought it odd that they would make aluminum hubs just for the Vitesse and Herald. Do these overlap with the Spitfire and GT6?  

BTW, nice catalogue offerings, somewhat in the Pegasus range, but with more gear and a bit less hardware.

Scott
_______________________________________________
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From koblinger at verizon.net  Mon Jan 17 10:44:14 2022
From: koblinger at verizon.net (Kurt Oblinger)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 09:44:14 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
In-Reply-To: <CAMmo4o-Y5CdUp=4z4LbXAjHcLp6MrxRbfmnJ4=o5f6tYmpoi5g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <6FC473BF-9D5B-45B1-9116-E9B8CFFE4333@me.com>
 <CAMmo4o-Y5CdUp=4z4LbXAjHcLp6MrxRbfmnJ4=o5f6tYmpoi5g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <999ccf97-394f-1005-895b-0aec0733c302@verizon.net>

Vitesse 1600 ( Sports 6 in the US) used smaller hubs and discs with 12P 
calipers. Vitesse 2 Litre and MkII used the same hubs and discs as the 
GT6 with 16P calipers.



On 1/17/2022 9:29 AM, Jason Sukey via Fot wrote:
> Hi Scott,
> My understanding is that GT6 hubs = Vitesse,
>
> and Spitfire hubs = Herald
>
>
>
> Jason
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 17, 2022, 12:08 PM Scott Janzen via Fot 
> <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     I recently ordered a new Smiths Tach from Merlin Motorsports in
>     England and it came with their catalog.
>
>     They have aluminum hubs that they note fit Vitesse and Herald stub
>     axles and bearings.? These are the only front hubs they offer.
>     I thought it odd that they would make aluminum hubs just for the
>     Vitesse and Herald. Do these overlap with the Spitfire and GT6?
>
>     BTW, nice catalogue offerings, somewhat in the Pegasus range, but
>     with more gear and a bit less hardware.
>
>     Scott
>     _______________________________________________
>     fot at autox.team.net
>
>     http://www.fot-racing.com
>
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive
>     http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jsukey at gmail.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From don at dcphotos.com  Mon Jan 17 12:32:35 2022
From: don at dcphotos.com (don at dcphotos.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 13:32:35 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
Message-ID: <32CA775E-DB6B-4F0E-B61C-FE36C15F79BA@dcphotos.com>

Scott,
You can order the GT6 alloy hubs and uprated stub axles with sealed bearings from Rimmer Bros. or Canley Classics.
SpitBits probably has them and I?d imagine Ted S can get you a set.
The bearings are larger in the GT6 hub vs. the Spitfire.
Don


DON COUCH PHOTOGRAPHY
www.dcphotos.com
(512)-680-3540

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From kknight at klaenv.com  Mon Jan 17 13:08:01 2022
From: kknight at klaenv.com (kknight at klaenv.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 12:08:01 -0800
Subject: [Fot] Chris Marx
Message-ID: <000c01d80bdd$ee6453a0$cb2cfae0$@klaenv.com>

Trying to get in touch of Chris in Germany.  If you get this Chris would you
contact me.  Ken  



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Jan 17 13:37:36 2022
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 15:37:36 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
In-Reply-To: <32CA775E-DB6B-4F0E-B61C-FE36C15F79BA@dcphotos.com>
References: <32CA775E-DB6B-4F0E-B61C-FE36C15F79BA@dcphotos.com>
Message-ID: <107261B6-2D9D-454D-A48D-32B2CC1FB834@me.com>

Thanks. Not sure how i feel about running sealed bearings in a race car. Anyone have experience? With front brake heat in the gt6, i run some pretty temp grease.


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 17, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Don Couch via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Scott,
> You can order the GT6 alloy hubs and uprated stub axles with sealed bearings from Rimmer Bros. or Canley Classics.
> SpitBits probably has them and I?d imagine Ted S can get you a set.
> The bearings are larger in the GT6 hub vs. the Spitfire.
> Don
> 
> 
> DON COUCH PHOTOGRAPHY
> www.dcphotos.com
> (512)-680-3540
> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
> 
> 
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From vfracing at aol.com  Mon Jan 17 13:49:51 2022
From: vfracing at aol.com (Philip Gott)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 15:49:51 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
In-Reply-To: <107261B6-2D9D-454D-A48D-32B2CC1FB834@me.com>
References: <107261B6-2D9D-454D-A48D-32B2CC1FB834@me.com>
Message-ID: <D0777D52-A791-442A-A941-B2F4792ECE7A@aol.com>

Virtually all the front drive and modern rear drive cars run sealed bearings in the front, as I did in my ITA Integra. Some guys repack them with what they believe to be better grease. I never did and had no problems in about 7 seasons of racing. 
Phil Gott

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 17, 2022, at 3:39 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks. Not sure how i feel about running sealed bearings in a race car. Anyone have experience? With front brake heat in the gt6, i run some pretty temp grease.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jan 17, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Don Couch via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?Scott,
>> You can order the GT6 alloy hubs and uprated stub axles with sealed bearings from Rimmer Bros. or Canley Classics.
>> SpitBits probably has them and I?d imagine Ted S can get you a set.
>> The bearings are larger in the GT6 hub vs. the Spitfire.
>> Don
>> 
>> 
>> DON COUCH PHOTOGRAPHY
>> www.dcphotos.com
>> (512)-680-3540
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>> 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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From gt6steve at aol.com  Mon Jan 17 13:57:04 2022
From: gt6steve at aol.com (gt6steve at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 20:57:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
In-Reply-To: <107261B6-2D9D-454D-A48D-32B2CC1FB834@me.com>
References: <32CA775E-DB6B-4F0E-B61C-FE36C15F79BA@dcphotos.com>
 <107261B6-2D9D-454D-A48D-32B2CC1FB834@me.com>
Message-ID: <965146891.1603847.1642453024319@mail.yahoo.com>

Based on forty plus years of industrial and racing experience I whole heartedly endorse sealed bearings. You will never pack a bearing as cleanly and thoroughly as the factory does


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Monday, January 17, 2022, 12:39 PM, Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:

Thanks. Not sure how i feel about running sealed bearings in a race car. Anyone have experience? With front brake heat in the gt6, i run some pretty temp grease.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 17, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Don Couch via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:



?
Scott,You can order the GT6 alloy hubs and uprated stub axles with sealed bearings from Rimmer Bros. or Canley Classics.SpitBits probably has them and I?d imagine Ted S can get you a set.The bearings are larger in the GT6 hub vs. the Spitfire.Don

DON COUCH PHOTOGRAPHY
www.dcphotos.com
(512)-680-3540
_______________________________________________
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From ofracer at gmail.com  Mon Jan 17 13:57:26 2022
From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 15:57:26 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
In-Reply-To: <107261B6-2D9D-454D-A48D-32B2CC1FB834@me.com>
References: <32CA775E-DB6B-4F0E-B61C-FE36C15F79BA@dcphotos.com>
 <107261B6-2D9D-454D-A48D-32B2CC1FB834@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAO0FjVYa4ZCBqWyE+OgjD+saNKmpcAfc79gFgFh-aa30WWr9Og@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Scott, I put the Rimmer Bros sealed bearing Al hubs on the Spit race car
3 years ago. So far, everything seems OK, no leaking bearings, funny noises
or slop when I turn them by hand. The replacement bearings were readily
available, so I keep a set in the trailer.
Rimmer Bros Al hub
Sealed bearings inner and outer the same
Trailer bearings-
NTN japan
4T-L44643L/L44610
UPC 4547359669008
EAN 4547359669008

I did drill them out for longer, larger studs as well
Dorman 610-156 7/16" - 20
Knurled part - 0. 566"
Shank - 0.544"
Length 1 23/32"

drill for 610-156 - 35/64'
Also, you need to grind a flat spot on one end so it clears the hub radius

mike h

On Mon, Jan 17, 2022 at 3:39 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Thanks. Not sure how i feel about running sealed bearings in a race car.
> Anyone have experience? With front brake heat in the gt6, i run some pretty
> temp grease.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 17, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Don Couch via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> ?Scott,
> You can order the GT6 alloy hubs and uprated stub axles with sealed
> bearings from Rimmer Bros. or Canley Classics.
> SpitBits probably has them and I?d imagine Ted S can get you a set.
> The bearings are larger in the GT6 hub vs. the Spitfire.
> Don
>
>
> DON COUCH PHOTOGRAPHY
> www.dcphotos.com
> (512)-680-3540
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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>
>
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>
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>
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From don at dcphotos.com  Mon Jan 17 14:03:21 2022
From: don at dcphotos.com (Don Couch)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 15:03:21 -0600
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
In-Reply-To: <107261B6-2D9D-454D-A48D-32B2CC1FB834@me.com>
References: <107261B6-2D9D-454D-A48D-32B2CC1FB834@me.com>
Message-ID: <2E4C9ACA-2CEC-46D7-B3C1-6F1458690AFF@dcphotos.com>

They still need grease. They just have a seal on outside of each so no felt seal/grease cap needed. 
The alloy hubs will take either style bearing. 

I do see what you are saying about heat. I?m not running them right now but was planning to. Hmmmmmmm
Don

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 17, 2022, at 2:37 PM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Thanks. Not sure how i feel about running sealed bearings in a race car. Anyone have experience? With front brake heat in the gt6, i run some pretty temp grease.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jan 17, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Don Couch via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?Scott,
>> You can order the GT6 alloy hubs and uprated stub axles with sealed bearings from Rimmer Bros. or Canley Classics.
>> SpitBits probably has them and I?d imagine Ted S can get you a set.
>> The bearings are larger in the GT6 hub vs. the Spitfire.
>> Don
>> 
>> 
>> DON COUCH PHOTOGRAPHY
>> www.dcphotos.com
>> (512)-680-3540
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>> 
>> 
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From sjanzen at me.com  Mon Jan 17 14:05:46 2022
From: sjanzen at me.com (Scott Janzen)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 16:05:46 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
In-Reply-To: <2E4C9ACA-2CEC-46D7-B3C1-6F1458690AFF@dcphotos.com>
References: <2E4C9ACA-2CEC-46D7-B3C1-6F1458690AFF@dcphotos.com>
Message-ID: <E8B6CF1F-E28E-4FFD-9972-C156DB926435@me.com>

I meant to say high temp grease is what i use.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 17, 2022, at 4:03 PM, Don Couch <don at dcphotos.com> wrote:
> 
> ?They still need grease. They just have a seal on outside of each so no felt seal/grease cap needed. 
> The alloy hubs will take either style bearing. 
> 
> I do see what you are saying about heat. I?m not running them right now but was planning to. Hmmmmmmm
> Don
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jan 17, 2022, at 2:37 PM, Scott Janzen <sjanzen at me.com> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?Thanks. Not sure how i feel about running sealed bearings in a race car. Anyone have experience? With front brake heat in the gt6, i run some pretty temp grease.
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jan 17, 2022, at 2:32 PM, Don Couch via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>> 
>>> ?Scott,
>>> You can order the GT6 alloy hubs and uprated stub axles with sealed bearings from Rimmer Bros. or Canley Classics.
>>> SpitBits probably has them and I?d imagine Ted S can get you a set.
>>> The bearings are larger in the GT6 hub vs. the Spitfire.
>>> Don
>>> 
>>> 
>>> DON COUCH PHOTOGRAPHY
>>> www.dcphotos.com
>>> (512)-680-3540
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> fot at autox.team.net
>>> 
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/sjanzen at me.com
>>> 
>>> 
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From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Jan 17 14:39:13 2022
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 14:39:13 -0700
Subject: [Fot] Vitesse, Herald, Spitfire and GT6 front hubs
In-Reply-To: <6FC473BF-9D5B-45B1-9116-E9B8CFFE4333@me.com>
References: <6FC473BF-9D5B-45B1-9116-E9B8CFFE4333@me.com>
Message-ID: <d0fba235-881c-0a53-4d7c-5ba259f2ec46@bradakis.com>

I imagine everyone knows this already, but just in case.? The GT6 
uprights with the GT6 hubs and the 16P brake setup take the same size 
pads as many Datsun vehicles, like the 240Z.? And when shopping for 
brake pads, one might get a lot more results looking for 240Z pads than 
GT6 pads.

The retaining pin holes need a little tweaking, as I recall.

mjb.



From kknight at klaenv.com  Tue Jan 18 09:20:12 2022
From: kknight at klaenv.com (kknight at klaenv.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2022 08:20:12 -0800
Subject: [Fot] 298dx Cam
Message-ID: <001a01d80c87$45aa5a20$d0ff0e60$@klaenv.com>

FOT

 

Several years ago I was able to get the master for the 298dx cam, find a top
cam grinder and buy a stock of new TR-3/4 cam blanks.  That supply is
exhausted.  There is a potential to negotiate the purchase of more new cam
blanks, the price depending on the quantity ordered.  In order to go forward
with this transaction I would need to have orders for some of the stock.  I
just sold my last 298dx cam for $650 + shipping and this reflects the price
increase from my cam grinder. 

 

I am not positive I can get new cam blanks but if so I am hoping to keep
these cams priced in the current range.  However, I suspect new blank prices
will require an increase in the final sale price.  I do make a profit on
this but it is modest and basically pays for my time providing these cams.
So it is likely that cam will be at least $750 + shipping.  I am opening a
list and taking a count of racers wanting a new 298dx cam.  I have two folks
on that list so contact me directly if you would  like to be added.  I will
leave the list open for a couple of weeks and then see how many cams are
needed and the price I can secure.  As to delivery, that is hard to say,
everyone knows of the shipping delays all over the world.  Cams can last a
long time with proper care, but they do not last forever, so think to the
future.

 

Ken



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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From Dave at microworks.net  Tue Jan 18 13:23:37 2022
From: Dave at microworks.net (Dave Riddle)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2022 13:23:37 -0700
Subject: [Fot] BajaTR3
Message-ID: <735A05A60CF77F41BDE2723965DAFA6507369C27E976@mainserver>

Ran the BajaTR3 this past weekend on the East Track at Wild Horse Pass (formerly Firebird). Slowly getting it adjusted from Baja to Road trim

[cid:image001.png at 01D80C6E.99FB78C0]


Dave Riddle
Business IT Consulting
Office: 480-610-8234
eMail: dave at microworks.net<mailto:dave at microworks.net>
Website: http://www.microworks.net<http://www.microworks.net/>


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From continuedlegacy1 at gmail.com  Tue Jan 18 15:22:03 2022
From: continuedlegacy1 at gmail.com (Shawn Frank)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2022 16:22:03 -0600
Subject: [Fot] BajaTR3
In-Reply-To: <735A05A60CF77F41BDE2723965DAFA6507369C27E976@mainserver>
References: <735A05A60CF77F41BDE2723965DAFA6507369C27E976@mainserver>
Message-ID: <CAJRV2eZPC_xtkxVjq+UiCLyVh-veVDEZzTFAhwKw8XGf8Tg8dw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for sending photos! Can't wait to see it at PittRace!

Shawn Frank
The Vintage Triumph Magazine - Editor
North American Triumphs (FKA Spitfire & GT6 Magazine) - Owner
Des Moines Concours d'Elegance
Continued Legacy Photo - Owner
Iowa British Car Club
FOT/VTR#94692/NASS#746
Drive Away Cancer Iowa - Driver
515-339-4228

On Tue, Jan 18, 2022, 2:24 PM Dave Riddle via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Ran the BajaTR3 this past weekend on the East Track at Wild Horse Pass
> (formerly Firebird). Slowly getting it adjusted from Baja to Road trim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *Dave Riddle*
>
> Business IT Consulting
>
> Office: 480-610-8234
>
> eMail: dave at microworks.net
>
> Website: http://www.microworks.net
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/continuedlegacy1 at gmail.com
>
>
>
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Jan 24 12:28:35 2022
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2022 19:28:35 +0000
Subject: [Fot] OZARK INTERNAT.
Message-ID: <BL0PR02MB4514D6E8146CB2305A2E27C9BA5E9@BL0PR02MB4514.namprd02.prod.outlook.com>

I see VSCDA had a tentative October date at Ozark International Raceway. That track looks neat, at least on the internet. Hmmmmm.

Marty.

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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Tue Jan 25 08:31:12 2022
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2022 07:31:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Fot] magnetized crankshaft
Message-ID: <1800285945.117375.1643124672238@connect.xfinity.com>

Hello Friends,
I discovered that one of the spare TR crankshafts I have is magnetized.  I acquired it years ago.  It has a fresh 10/10 regrind and it is a candidate for friend's rebuild.  I was knocking it's damaged flywheel dowel pin out when I noticed the drift stuck to the flange.  Can anyone shed some light on this?  The crank is being sent to a shop for cleaning, crack check and full inspection.  Perhaps the crank had been "magna"fluxed and not properly demagnetized afterward.  I don't think a magnetized crank would be good to use.  It would attract particles. 
Dave H.
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From rjl6n at cstone.net  Tue Jan 25 11:16:36 2022
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (R. John Lye)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2022 13:16:36 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Re: Happy New Year and free TR4 project
Message-ID: <1643134596.2ufwjfoagwwc8ook@webmail.lumos.net>


	


Hi all,


No financial interest? in this one (and I am tempted, but this just isn't a
good time for me right now), an acquaintance has a TR-4 project for
sale.? He believes it to be an early "short bubble" car.? Contact info
is in the email below.

I had sent this out earlier, but seems to have been caught in the mailer
admin loop, so I am trying again.

John
?

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Happy New Year and free TR4 project
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2022 16:43:19 +0000
From: "Rose, Thomas D (tdr3r)" <tdr3r at virginia.edu>
To: "rjl6n at cstone.net" <rjl6n at cstone.net>

?

HI 2 metal dashes :>) 

?

I think it is the more rare short bulge ( oh my pride)  

?

?

?


From: "R. John Lye" <rjl6n at cstone.net>
Reply-To: "rjl6n at cstone.net" <rjl6n at cstone.net>
Date: Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:30 AM
To: "Rose, Thomas D (tdr3r)" <tdr3r at virginia.edu>
Subject: Re: Happy New Year and free TR4 project



?



Hi Tom,

Also, is this a short bubble hood, or the long bubble one?? In 1962, it
could have been either one.? I assume metal dash, right?

John ?

On Tue, 11 Jan 2022 15:53:52 +0000, "Rose, Thomas D (tdr3r)" <tdr3r at virginia.edu> wrote:
? 


Hi John,

Hope you are doing well and making it through the weather!

?

I was wondering if you could let the group know about a TR4 project with lot?s of spare. It is free/ pay what you feel

?

1962 TR4 totally dismantled? extra dash e2 extra diff?s spare frame is a rolling chassis late TR3 early 4. Good bonnet boot lid salvageable doors front and rear body half wings all need repair.? Engine all there dismantled, SU?s gauges extra light buckets ect? Extra wheels? extra seats 

?

I have had it store the last 3 years but it has to go per landlord , so if anyone wants it please pass along my # 434 906 0471. Too many brit bikes needing the love too.

?

Thanks

Tom Rose








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From rjl6n at cstone.net  Tue Jan 25 11:20:39 2022
From: rjl6n at cstone.net (R. John Lye)
Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2022 13:20:39 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Fwd: Re: Happy New Year and free TR4 project
In-Reply-To: <1643134596.2ufwjfoagwwc8ook@webmail.lumos.net>
References: <1643134596.2ufwjfoagwwc8ook@webmail.lumos.net>
Message-ID: <1643134839.afxsgnz1cggw08co@webmail.lumos.net>


	


Sorry, I should have also mentioned that this is in Nelson County, Virginia, just a
little bit south of Charlottesville, VA.

John
?



On Tue, 25 Jan 2022 13:16:36 -0500, "R. John Lye via Fot" <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
?
Hi all,

No financial interest? in this one (and I am tempted, but this just isn't a
good time for me right now), an acquaintance has a TR-4 project for
sale.? He believes it to be an early "short bubble" car.? Contact info
is in the email below.

I had sent this out earlier, but seems to have been caught in the mailer
admin loop, so I am trying again.

John
?

-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: Happy New Year and free TR4 project
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2022 16:43:19 +0000
From: "Rose, Thomas D (tdr3r)" <tdr3r at virginia.edu>
To: "rjl6n at cstone.net" <rjl6n at cstone.net>

?

HI 2 metal dashes :>) 

?

I think it is the more rare short bulge ( oh my pride)  

?

?

?


From: "R. John Lye" <rjl6n at cstone.net>
Reply-To: "rjl6n at cstone.net" <rjl6n at cstone.net>
Date: Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:30 AM
To: "Rose, Thomas D (tdr3r)" <tdr3r at virginia.edu>
Subject: Re: Happy New Year and free TR4 project



?



Hi Tom,

Also, is this a short bubble hood, or the long bubble one?? In 1962, it
could have been either one.? I assume metal dash, right?

John ?

On Tue, 11 Jan 2022 15:53:52 +0000, "Rose, Thomas D (tdr3r)" <tdr3r at virginia.edu> wrote:
? 


Hi John,

Hope you are doing well and making it through the weather!

?

I was wondering if you could let the group know about a TR4 project with lot?s of spare. It is free/ pay what you feel

?

1962 TR4 totally dismantled? extra dash e2 extra diff?s spare frame is a rolling chassis late TR3 early 4. Good bonnet boot lid salvageable doors front and rear body half wings all need repair.? Engine all there dismantled, SU?s gauges extra light buckets ect? Extra wheels? extra seats 

?

I have had it store the last 3 years but it has to go per landlord , so if anyone wants it please pass along my # 434 906 0471. Too many brit bikes needing the love too.

?

Thanks

Tom Rose





_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rjl6n at cstone.net

?



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From michaelndeweerd at gmail.com  Wed Jan 26 07:15:09 2022
From: michaelndeweerd at gmail.com (Michael Deweerd)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2022 09:15:09 -0500
Subject: [Fot] magnetized crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <1800285945.117375.1643124672238@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <1800285945.117375.1643124672238@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <CAHAH3R4p+7WPMWv6KCAgfZJyabRTSPq6kYRmO0Opi6DXv7cziA@mail.gmail.com>

Definitely get it de-magnetized before using
If the engine shop can?t do it try a machine shop/tool shop that does any
type of grinding
They will have a demagnetizer for the die blocks etc. That they grind

Cheers
Mike

On Tue, Jan 25, 2022 at 10:31 AM DAVE HOGYE via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Hello Friends,
> I discovered that one of the spare TR crankshafts I have is magnetized.  I
> acquired it years ago.  It has a fresh 10/10 regrind and it is a candidate
> for friend's rebuild.  I was knocking it's damaged flywheel dowel pin out
> when I noticed the drift stuck to the flange.  Can anyone shed some light
> on this?  The crank is being sent to a shop for cleaning, crack check and
> full inspection.  Perhaps the crank had been "magna"fluxed and not properly
> demagnetized afterward.  I don't think a magnetized crank would be good to
> use.  It would attract particles.
> Dave H.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage <http://www.team.net/pipermail/fotUnsubscribe/Manage>:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/michaelndeweerd at gmail.com
>
>
> --
*Mike Deweerd*
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From jaboruch at yahoo.com  Wed Jan 26 07:31:30 2022
From: jaboruch at yahoo.com (Joe)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2022 09:31:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] magnetized crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <1800285945.117375.1643124672238@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <1800285945.117375.1643124672238@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <0DC35D9A-C4F1-49F9-8F6C-D6068F6D536A@yahoo.com>

I would think that a shop that does magneflux should be able to de-mag it.  As you noted that?s probably how it got magnetized. 

Alternately  line the crankcase with a couple of copper wire coils and make it serve as a generator.  ?

JoeB

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2022, at 10:31 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Hello Friends, 
> I discovered that one of the spare TR crankshafts I have is magnetized.  I acquired it years ago.  It has a fresh 10/10 regrind and it is a candidate for friend's rebuild.  I was knocking it's damaged flywheel dowel pin out when I noticed the drift stuck to the flange.  Can anyone shed some light on this?  The crank is being sent to a shop for cleaning, crack check and full inspection.  Perhaps the crank had been "magna"fluxed and not properly demagnetized afterward.  I don't think a magnetized crank would be good to use.  It would attract particles. 
> Dave H.
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at yahoo.com
> 
> 
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From vfracing at aol.com  Wed Jan 26 07:41:47 2022
From: vfracing at aol.com (Philip Gott)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2022 09:41:47 -0500
Subject: [Fot] magnetized crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <0DC35D9A-C4F1-49F9-8F6C-D6068F6D536A@yahoo.com>
References: <0DC35D9A-C4F1-49F9-8F6C-D6068F6D536A@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <878B691C-41BF-4F93-824D-75BCC2A19523@aol.com>

It may have fallen over aligned North to South. That is one way to magnetize iron things, although the effective is usually small. More likely not was a faulty magna flux job.  I mention it only to suggest you check for damage/bending when you get it demagnetized which is a good idea.
Phil G

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 26, 2022, at 9:32 AM, Joe via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?I would think that a shop that does magneflux should be able to de-mag it.  As you noted that?s probably how it got magnetized. 
> 
> Alternately  line the crankcase with a couple of copper wire coils and make it serve as a generator.  ?
> 
> JoeB
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jan 25, 2022, at 10:31 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>> ?
>> Hello Friends, 
>> I discovered that one of the spare TR crankshafts I have is magnetized.  I acquired it years ago.  It has a fresh 10/10 regrind and it is a candidate for friend's rebuild.  I was knocking it's damaged flywheel dowel pin out when I noticed the drift stuck to the flange.  Can anyone shed some light on this?  The crank is being sent to a shop for cleaning, crack check and full inspection.  Perhaps the crank had been "magna"fluxed and not properly demagnetized afterward.  I don't think a magnetized crank would be good to use.  It would attract particles. 
>> Dave H.
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot at autox.team.net
>> 
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>> 
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at yahoo.com
>> 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com
> 
> 
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From dlhogye at comcast.net  Wed Jan 26 09:03:35 2022
From: dlhogye at comcast.net (DAVE HOGYE)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2022 08:03:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Fot] magnetized crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <878B691C-41BF-4F93-824D-75BCC2A19523@aol.com>
References: <0DC35D9A-C4F1-49F9-8F6C-D6068F6D536A@yahoo.com>
 <878B691C-41BF-4F93-824D-75BCC2A19523@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1303309856.8804.1643213015661@connect.xfinity.com>

Thanks for the replies.  The crank will be thoroughly checked and demagnetized before use.  It is a curious discovery. 
Dave H.

>     On 01/26/2022 6:41 AM Philip Gott <vfracing at aol.com> wrote:
> 
> 
>     It may have fallen over aligned North to South. That is one way to magnetize iron things, although the effective is usually small. More likely not was a faulty magna flux job.  I mention it only to suggest you check for damage/bending when you get it demagnetized which is a good idea.
>     Phil G
> 
>     Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
>         > > On Jan 26, 2022, at 9:32 AM, Joe via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >     > 
>         > >         I would think that a shop that does magneflux should be able to de-mag it.  As you noted that?s probably how it got magnetized. 
> > 
> >         Alternately  line the crankcase with a couple of copper wire coils and make it serve as a generator.  ?
> > 
> >         JoeB
> > 
> >         Sent from my iPhone
> > 
> > 
> >             > > > On Jan 25, 2022, at 10:31 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > >         > > 
> >             > > >             Hello Friends,
> > >             I discovered that one of the spare TR crankshafts I have is magnetized.  I acquired it years ago.  It has a fresh 10/10 regrind and it is a candidate for friend's rebuild.  I was knocking it's damaged flywheel dowel pin out when I noticed the drift stuck to the flange.  Can anyone shed some light on this?  The crank is being sent to a shop for cleaning, crack check and full inspection.  Perhaps the crank had been "magna"fluxed and not properly demagnetized afterward.  I don't think a magnetized crank would be good to use.  It would attract particles. 
> > >             Dave H.
> > >             _______________________________________________
> > >             fot at autox.team.net
> > > 
> > >             http://www.fot-racing.com
> > > 
> > >             Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > >             Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> > >             Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at yahoo.com
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > >         > >         _______________________________________________
> >         fot at autox.team.net
> > 
> >         http://www.fot-racing.com
> > 
> >         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >         Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> >         Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >     > 
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From ponobill at gmail.com  Wed Jan 26 17:57:54 2022
From: ponobill at gmail.com (Ponostyle)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2022 14:57:54 -1000
Subject: [Fot] magnetized crankshaft
In-Reply-To: <1303309856.8804.1643213015661@connect.xfinity.com>
References: <0DC35D9A-C4F1-49F9-8F6C-D6068F6D536A@yahoo.com>
 <878B691C-41BF-4F93-824D-75BCC2A19523@aol.com>
 <1303309856.8804.1643213015661@connect.xfinity.com>
Message-ID: <64C107DF-7CBE-48AA-A270-40EB985E0C3D@ponostyle.com>

It?s really easy for steel things to become magnetized. Any shock can do it to a surprising degree. If you want to magnetize a screwdriver all you really need to do is give it a sharp whack. 
Bill Babcock
Beach Bum
bill at ponostyle.com
https://www.Ponostyle.com

> On Jan 26, 2022, at 6:03 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the replies.  The crank will be thoroughly checked and demagnetized before use.  It is a curious discovery.  
> Dave H.
>> On 01/26/2022 6:41 AM Philip Gott <vfracing at aol.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> It may have fallen over aligned North to South. That is one way to magnetize iron things, although the effective is usually small. More likely not was a faulty magna flux job.  I mention it only to suggest you check for damage/bending when you get it demagnetized which is a good idea.
>> Phil G 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Jan 26, 2022, at 9:32 AM, Joe via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote: 
>>> 
>>> I would think that a shop that does magneflux should be able to de-mag it.  As you noted that?s probably how it got magnetized. 
>>> 
>>> Alternately  line the crankcase with a couple of copper wire coils and make it serve as a generator.  ?
>>> 
>>> JoeB 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Jan 25, 2022, at 10:31 AM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote: 
>>>> 
>>>> Hello Friends, 
>>>> I discovered that one of the spare TR crankshafts I have is magnetized.  I acquired it years ago.  It has a fresh 10/10 regrind and it is a candidate for friend's rebuild.  I was knocking it's damaged flywheel dowel pin out when I noticed the drift stuck to the flange.  Can anyone shed some light on this?  The crank is being sent to a shop for cleaning, crack check and full inspection.  Perhaps the crank had been "magna"fluxed and not properly demagnetized afterward.  I don't think a magnetized crank would be good to use.  It would attract particles. 
>>>> Dave H.
>>>> _______________________________________________ 
>>>> fot at autox.team.net 
>>>> 
>>>> http://www.fot-racing.com 
>>>> 
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/jaboruch at yahoo.com 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________ 
>>> fot at autox.team.net 
>>> 
>>> http://www.fot-racing.com 
>>> 
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
>>> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com 
>>> 
>>> 
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
> 
> http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/bill at ponostyle.com
> 
> 

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From steve at artwithcars.com  Thu Jan 27 10:38:52 2022
From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2022 09:38:52 -0800
Subject: [Fot] 4:55 Detroit locker
Message-ID: <D0F00138-BB4C-4239-B2C9-12DE745DD355@artwithcars.com>

Dear FOT,

A Facebook TR3 group guy contacted me with a  complete TR3 rear axle assembly 
with 4:55 gears and a Detroit locker. He?s in the NC area. I?m certain it does NOT have the updated Southwick conversion. 

If anybody is interested, here is the seller?s info: Stu (480) 577-2685


~Steve Belfer


From don at dcphotos.com  Thu Jan 27 12:28:49 2022
From: don at dcphotos.com (Don Couch)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2022 13:28:49 -0600
Subject: [Fot] FOT LIST
Message-ID: <FD515699-5C05-48BA-92A3-802CDAAC6DBF@dcphotos.com>


I accidentally unsubscribed from the FOT list

Can you please undo my boo boo?


Don
Sent from my iPhone

From rick.parent at att.net  Fri Jan 28 08:36:53 2022
From: rick.parent at att.net (Rick Parent)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2022 15:36:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] FOT LIST
In-Reply-To: <FD515699-5C05-48BA-92A3-802CDAAC6DBF@dcphotos.com>
References: <FD515699-5C05-48BA-92A3-802CDAAC6DBF@dcphotos.com>
Message-ID: <213841225.3562184.1643384213451@mail.yahoo.com>

He's a slacker, don't do it, haha.
Rick Parent
"Doing the right thing is always the right thing, regardless of consequences"
 

    On Thursday, January 27, 2022, 02:29:17 PM EST, Don Couch via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 
I accidentally unsubscribed from the FOT list

Can you please undo my boo boo?


Don
Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rick.parent at att.net


  
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From dbm.spitfire at gmail.com  Fri Jan 28 09:55:30 2022
From: dbm.spitfire at gmail.com (Doug Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2022 11:55:30 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Historic Sportscar Racing
Message-ID: <CAGctxs5AYxuHzoq3b9LTE+M4PQ130SQbzxmXdWjQHkbLnR4Vcg@mail.gmail.com>

I don't know if anyone else saw this, but HSR is now under IMSA.

Regards,
Doug Mitchell
dbm.spitfire at gmail.com
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From steve at artwithcars.com  Fri Jan 28 10:12:54 2022
From: steve at artwithcars.com (Steven Belfer)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2022 09:12:54 -0800
Subject: [Fot] 4:55 Detroit locker/ SOLD
In-Reply-To: <D0F00138-BB4C-4239-B2C9-12DE745DD355@artwithcars.com>
References: <D0F00138-BB4C-4239-B2C9-12DE745DD355@artwithcars.com>
Message-ID: <4A9A3A3E-45CB-4E7E-BB1A-092B6675EB2B@artwithcars.com>

The guy sold his rear end 

~Steve


> On Jan 27, 2022, at 9:38 AM, Steven Belfer <steve at artwithcars.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Dear FOT,
> 
> A Facebook TR3 group guy contacted me with a  complete TR3 rear axle assembly 
> with 4:55 gears and a Detroit locker. He?s in the NC area. I?m certain it does NOT have the updated Southwick conversion. 
> 
> If anybody is interested, here is the seller?s info: Stu (480) 577-2685
> 
> 
> ~Steve Belfer
> 

From ofracer at gmail.com  Sat Jan 29 14:51:43 2022
From: ofracer at gmail.com (Mike Harmuth)
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2022 16:51:43 -0500
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup registration is open
Message-ID: <CAO0FjVY2bLeS30CExOUP44CaZgpO+N=pFafWnVYhK6UzXfPTAg@mail.gmail.com>

I got this today from the PVGP. Early bird pricing ends in May.

https://www.motorsportreg.com/events/2022-pvgp-historics-at-pitt-race-pittsburgh-international-compl-vintage-771031

See you there

mike h
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From vfracing at aol.com  Sat Jan 29 15:37:05 2022
From: vfracing at aol.com (vfracing at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2022 22:37:05 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup registration is open
In-Reply-To: <CAO0FjVY2bLeS30CExOUP44CaZgpO+N=pFafWnVYhK6UzXfPTAg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO0FjVY2bLeS30CExOUP44CaZgpO+N=pFafWnVYhK6UzXfPTAg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1025166903.2050066.1643495825817@mail.yahoo.com>

Gotta make sure we're still, runnin'...


-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Harmuth via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
To: FoTTriumph <fot at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sat, Jan 29, 2022 4:52 pm
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup registration is open

I got this today from the PVGP. Early bird pricing ends in May.
https://www.motorsportreg.com/events/2022-pvgp-historics-at-pitt-race-pittsburgh-international-compl-vintage-771031

See you there
mike h_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com


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From curt.johnston at comcast.net  Sat Jan 29 20:33:41 2022
From: curt.johnston at comcast.net (Curt Johnston)
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2022 19:33:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup registration is open
In-Reply-To: <1025166903.2050066.1643495825817@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAO0FjVY2bLeS30CExOUP44CaZgpO+N=pFafWnVYhK6UzXfPTAg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1025166903.2050066.1643495825817@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1585551989.134404.1643513621826@connect.xfinity.com>

Yes, the Kastner Cup is on at the GVGP Historics at PittRace.  We are meeting with the team next week and hope to have information out to everyone as soon as possible.  

Attached is the draft poster.  Hope to meet you there.

Curt Johnston

>     On 01/29/2022 2:37 PM Phil Gott via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Gotta make sure we're still, runnin'...
> 
> 
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: Mike Harmuth via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
>     To: FoTTriumph <fot at autox.team.net>
>     Sent: Sat, Jan 29, 2022 4:52 pm
>     Subject: [Fot] Kastner Cup registration is open
> 
>     I got this today from the PVGP. Early bird pricing ends in May.
> 
>     https://www.motorsportreg.com/events/2022-pvgp-historics-at-pitt-race-pittsburgh-international-compl-vintage-771031
> 
>     See you there
> 
>     mike h
>     _______________________________________________
>     fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net
> 
>     http://www.fot-racing.com/
> 
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
>     Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/vfracing at aol.com
> 
> 
>     _______________________________________________
>     fot at autox.team.net
> 
>     http://www.fot-racing.com
> 
>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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> 
> 
> 
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