[Fot] Frame paint

Thu Sep 28 22:53:06 MDT 2023

I still own my first car, a '63 Galaxie 500XL.  In 1980, when I was 17, I took the car apart to restore the front half of the car in the garage of my parental home.  I removed the engine and trans and all of the front body panels.  A high school friend that drove a tow truck, helped me pull and reinstall the engine with his tow truck.  I refreshed the top end of the engine.  I had the inner fenders, radiator support and other parts media blasted and used rattle can satin or semi-gloss black Rust-oleum to refinish the panels similar to the factory finish.  I prepared by hand the fire wall and other details, rattle can painted everything myself.  I had zero special tools back then.  To this day, the engine compartment is in the same exact condition that it was when I finished it all those years ago.  It still looks excellent and factory.  Even the underside of the inner fenders.  There are no bad stone chips or corrosion of any kind.  I had the rocker covers and air cleaner housing painted by a professional Ford restoration specialist to match the factory gold finish.  My brother and I have shared the car since we bought it together in 1979 for $600.   
I swear by Rust-oleum.  Do not underestimate it's use and value.  
Dave H. 

> On 09/28/2023 5:13 PM PDT Mike Harmuth via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
>  
>  
> I used to have SCUBA tanks painted in Imron. They stopped allowing them to be refilled because you couldn't see any cracks/ damage.  Keep that in mind on a race car chassis, you don't want a shiny, hard, paint job to hide stress cracks,
>  
> mike h
> 
> On Thu, Sep 28, 2023 at 7:20 PM Jack Wheeler via Fot <fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> >  
> > Hi Joe.  When I bought the Imron for my car in 1980, the guy wouldn't sell it to me unless I also bought the respirator he recommended!  Strong stuff.
> >  
> > Jack
> >  
> > On Thursday, September 28, 2023 at 11:33:26 AM EDT, Joe Alexander <joealexandervintage at gmail.com mailto:joealexandervintage at gmail.com> wrote:
> >  
> >  
> > In the 70s we were painting John Deere Tractors in DuPont Imron. What wasn’t done by robots was done by painters in HazMat Suits.
> > 
> > Joe Alexander
> > 4505 Donald Dr
> > Cedar Falls, IA 50613
> > The-vintage-racer.com
> > Gasketinnovations.com
> > Cell:  319.464.4711
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > > On Sep 28, 2023, at 10:29 AM, Jack Wheeler via Fot <fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > 
> > >  
> > > I don't know if it is even still available, but years ago I painted the frame on my race car with Dupont Imron.  It was the most durable paint available at the time, and my experience reflected that.  The stuff is very toxic, so you must use a very good respirator.
> > >  
> > > Jack
> > >  
> > > On Thursday, September 28, 2023 at 02:28:28 AM EDT, Tony Drews via Fot <fot at autox.team.net mailto:fot at autox.team.net> wrote:
> > >  
> > >  
> > > 
> > > Grey will show cracks better than black.  POR is the first thing that came to mind for me, but it's been YEARS since I used it.
> > > 
> > > Cheers, Tony
> > > 
> > > On 9/27/2023 10:21 PM, DAVE HOGYE via Fot wrote:
> > > 
> > > > 
> > >  
> > > I'd suggest POR 15.  Depending on the color, the number changes.  I think 15 is black.  Gray is something else, maybe 10.  Spray or brush on.  I've used Rustoleum as the touchup rattle spray cans are perfectly matched to the quart cans, and you can get it just about anywhere.  POR products might be a little more durable than Rustoleum.  If the frame is bare metal, an epoxy primer is a good start, but with POR I "think" you can skip the primer.  
> > > Dave H.  
> > >  
> > > On 09/27/2023 5:55 PM PDT McKearn McKearn via Fot <fot at autox.team.net> mailto:fot at autox.team.net wrote:
> > >  
> > >  
> > > Hi All.
> > >   It's been a long time since I've painted a frame and I'm just wondering what the latest / greatest thing to use is for a race car frame ? It's already sand blasted if that matters..
> > >    Thanks.  P.J.
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