[Healeys] Brass

[Alan Seigrist]

Simon -

If originality isn't a concern, I would drill out a hole, tap it, and
insert a steel or stainless steel screw (with smooth shank & head cut
off).  That will be much more reliable over time.

On 11/13/09, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:
> I have removed the hot water heater tap from the block of my BT7. It had
> been jammed in the open position with no handle ever since I've had the car.
> Abuse by a PO, though I've gathered from others and now see for myself that
> these things are living on borrowed time from the moment they are fitted.
> With judicious use of a small blow lamp and a small(ish) hammer I got the
> tapered rotating section out of the main body. I've polished up all the
> interfacing surfaces and now I'm ready to fix it/put it back together.
> 1) I've got some brass rod left over from some carb work, so have suitable
> material for the little handle/lever thing. I'll file it down to size and
> probably tap and die so I can bolt the handle into, maybe through, the round
> end of the rotating section.....any other ideas? And can one solder brass to
> brass? Copper I know about, from plumbing. But brass, I don't know.
> 2) I'm concerned that I may get the thing together and looking halfway
> decent only for it to bind itself solid again. What might I do to keep it
> free and easy but not dripping coolant? Light oil will do until the engine
> has heated up a few times and then it'll dry out and get tacky.....Am I
> right on that? Grease ditto? What about that filthy black graphite grease
> stuff? A bit heavy, but heat proof?
> Any advice would be very welcome.
> Thanks,
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> You are subscribed as healey.nut at gmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>

-- 
Sent from my mobile device

Alan

'52 A90
'53 BN1
'59 Jag Mk IX
'64 BJ8