[Healeys] Working on door gaps

[Rich Chrysler]

Chris, 

This job will go a lot better if you first establish your door gaps evenly
by the careful placing of the jack stands on the main chassis rails. Of
course make sure these main frame rails, X section, cross members and
outriggers are all in good condition and not twisted, damaged or rotted.
I'd suggest the front stands be placed just ahead of the front outriggers,
the rear ones just behind the rear outriggers. Now recheck your door gaps.
I cannot over state that the main chassis may still be fine but when the
inner sills, ends of outriggers, even the floors are detached or removed,
things will flex simply because the Healey IS NOT A FRAME BASED STRUCTURE.
It is a semi-unibody inner structure in which all the components work
together as a team to provide the necessary strength. Obviously with some of
the team "absent" the structure becomes less of the structure it is designed
to be.
Please read that last couple of sentences over a couple of times until you
understand what I'm saying here. Most folks just don't "get it".

Meanwhile if your chassis rails need "capping" then it's time for a new
chassis.

We import the excellent and exactingly accurate Kilmartin chassis from
Australia. Then we build the car up on that. It maintains the absolute
accuracy of detail of the originals with more than sufficient added strength
due to heavying up the metal on the inside of the members. It's a wonderful
substructure on which to build an accurate car.

Rich Chrysler


2011/9/4 Chris Masucci <csooch1 at aol.com>

> > Hi Folks,
> >
> > It's been a while since I have posted but I am now getting back to
> working
> on the Healey after a 6 year hiatus.  Had a Son, purchased an older home,
> etc.
> >
> > The car is the same 1966 BJ8 and I am finally to the point of fitting
> panels.  The front fender to door gaps are good.  The rear fender to door
> gaps
> have the standard small gap up top and bigger gap at bottom indicative of
> frame sagging or damage.  I knew this when I bought the car.  All of the
> rust
> has been cut out and some frame sections capped.  I have removed the
> temporarily welded in rear inner body panel for the shut pillar and the
> rear
> seat pan, which needed replacing anyway.  I am now working on
straightening
> the rear section of the frame.  The car is supported on the front hubs and
> at
> the frame right at the rear outriggers.  I am pressing down on the rear
> most
> part of the frame in the boot with bottle jacks.
> >
> > I have been able to open the door gaps on both sides so that I have
3/10"
> bigger gap up top versus the bottom on both sides.  My question is, do you
> think that is enough for me to start tacking in the rest of the inner body
> panel and rear frame caps for strength?  I have heard rumors of opening to
> a
> delta of 3/16", welding and, and then when supported by all the wheels it
> should sag somewhere close to even gaps.  I had planned on lightly tacking
> in
> the new metal and then jacking the car by the rear axle to see where the
> gaps
> closed, kind of by trial and error.  Wondering if I am at a good starting
> point.
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Chris
> > BJ8