[Healeys] Door Trim

Sat Jun 27 19:48:36 MDT 2015

Tom Manaco
http://tomsimport.com/new/parts/index.asp
just bought some fro my BT7 and a friends BJ8

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
   _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

On Sat, Jun 27, 2015 at 6:26 PM, John and Judy Carter <jc9821 at msn.com>
wrote:

> What is the name and the source for the rubber door trim(surround) that
> stays put  on a BJ8 and other models?
>
> > From: healeys-request at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 12:00:02 -0600
> >
> > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
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> >
> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> > 1. Re: Looking for ideas (Randy Dickson)
> > 2. Re: Looking for ideas (HealeyRick)
> > 3. Friday Funny (HealeyRick)
> > 4. Re: Friday Funny (Michael Oritt)
> > 5. Re: FW: Oil again (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
> > 6. o/d again (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
> > 7. Re: FW: Oil again (Bob Spidell)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 13:07:58 -0500
> > From: "Randy Dickson" <rdickson at midwestarchaeology.com>
> > To: <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > Message-ID: <026701d0b03b$091255e0$1b3701a0$@midwestarchaeology.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Fellow Healeyoids! I wonder if you could weld a nut bolt combo to the
> shackle pin and use a slide hammer to pull it out whilst using heat and
> quenching with ice water or dry ice.
> >
> >
> >
> > Randy
> >
> > 60 BT7
> >
> > 63 BJ7
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Curtis Arndt
> > Sent: Friday, June 26, 2015 12:39 PM
> > To: Michael Salter
> > Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> >
> >
> >
> > Micheal,
> >
> > My short article on removing broken studs from Manifolds...
> >
> > Removing Broken Studs from Cast Iron Manifolds
> >
> >
> >
> > This is method that I use to remove broken bolts and studs from cast
> iron exhaust manifolds. With a broken stud in a manifold, as long as I can
> get a small pair of long nose locking pliers onto the screw, bolt or stud
> then the rest is typically easy, if you are patient.
> >
> >
> >
> > I heat only the exposed stud or bolt with a torch to cherry red and then
> shock cool it with a wet rag, followed by some penetrating solution like
> "Kroil" or "PB Blaster". Then I carefully clamp the needle nose locking
> pliers on the end of the exposed stud and GENTLY rock it back and forth
> ever so slightly. If you get any movement whatsoever back and forth the
> rest will come, if you're patient. Repeat the heating and shock cooling
> process followed by the locking pliers as many times as it takes. With
> patience and luck the broken stud will progressively unscrew a bit farther
> with each application of heat and penetrating oil until it will unscrew all
> the way.
> >
> >
> >
> > I did this recently with a BJ8 Manifold where 7 of the 8 studs were
> frozen and/or broken off. Some of them had just ?? of stud proud of the
> manifold. All seven came out using this process.
> >
> >
> >
> > This process may work on an aluminum manifold IF and ONLY IF you are
> careful not to use too much heat near the aluminum.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 2:52 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com
> <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:
> >
> > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without
> success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the
> day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make things
> easier.
> >
> > If all else fails new brackets..
> >
> > Michael S
> >
> > BN1 #174
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com
> <mailto:michael.salter at gmail.com> > wrote:
> >
> > I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went
> off to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
> > They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to extract
> them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
> > Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through each
> bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being subjected to
> massive amount of force.
> > Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very tedious
> repair.
> > Michael S.
> > BN1 #174
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> > If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:23:45 -0400
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> > Cc: "Healeys at autox.team.net" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Looking for ideas
> > Message-ID:
> > <CAGfzsZfJA3yxZg4nKSshUo20_+DtfCnzkjsDLrD_R69DXS3wqA at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > If all else fails, Electric Discharge Machining (EDM) -
> > http://www.brokentap.com/services.html
> >
> > Best of Luck,
> > Rick Neville
> >
> > On Fri, Jun 26, 2015 at 5:52 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com
> >
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks to all for the good ideas some I have already tried without
> > > success....Looks like cutting and drilling is to be the order of the
> > > day..unfortunately those pins are case hardened which won't make things
> > > easier.
> > > If all else fails new brackets..
> > >
> > > Michael S
> > > BN1 #174
> > >
> > > On Thu, Jun 25, 2015 at 5:42 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > >> I left the seized shackle pins in both sides of this BN1 when it went
> off
> > >> to TechnoStrip in the hope that they would come loose.
> > >> They didn't so I've spent an inordinate amount of time trying to
> extract
> > >> them without wreaking the mounts on the frame.
> > >> Made a special puller, applied loss of heat, drilled right through
> each
> > >> bush, grumbled a lot but they will not move despite being subjected to
> > >> massive amount of force.
> > >> Any ideas...damaging the mounts in the chassis makes for a very
> tedious
> > >> repair.
> > >> Michael S.
> > >> BN1 #174
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
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> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik@gmail.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 14:45:44 -0400
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > Message-ID:
> > <CAGfzsZd8eqJ4-OMLRB1E6Q_fzWoJF5gjLTfEiQcgG4w4coLPYw at mail.gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ breasts which
> cushioned
> > the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"
> >
> > Read more:
> > <
> http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html
> >
> > http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj
> > <
> http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3139966/Mother-two-s-life-saved-enormous-38JJ-breasts-Mini-Cooper-ploughed-her.html#ixzz3eBhCvzbj
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 12:14:10 -0700
> > From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> > To: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>, "healeys at autox.team.net"
> > <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> > Message-ID: <kci9jwu0oytofjwaspa5vjcf.1435346050611 at email.android.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> >
> >
> > Food for thought.
> > Best--Michael Oritt
> >
> >
> > Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S? 5, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone
> >
> > -------- Original message --------
> > From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> > Date: 06/26/2015 11:45 (GMT-08:00)
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Friday Funny
> >
> > "Mother-of-two's life is saved by her enormous 38JJ breasts which
> cushioned the impact when Mini Cooper ploughed into her"
> >
> > Read more:?http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...#ixzz3eBhCvzbj?
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 01:35:55 +0000
> > From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> > To: Larry Varley <varley at cosmos.net.au>
> > Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > Message-ID: <SNT149-W8988C64BD609CADAD9D02CA5AC0 at phx.gbl>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> > Larry, I don't think they mess with the journals so there should be no
> problem there. I've seen a website for Vandervell, but they are probably
> owned by someone else now. If they maintained their old quality and if they
> still make the right bearings they would be the go to source. As it is it's
> a crapshoot. I am going to contact them and see what they claim.
> > My block has been over-bored and after 13 years of service wouldn't
> quite clean up at 88 mm. I'll be ordering the 88.5 mm pistons. I like the
> DW route because it allows them to use lighter pistons and more modern
> metric rings they say will cut down on blow-by. CR shouldn't change unless
> I do cut the pistons and then it won't increase much. I'm waiting to hear
> what needs to be done to the head. If it needs to be decked too a lot of
> things might change.I haven't micced the old head gasket, but i'll need to
> compare it to the new one at some point. Even though I don't think I'll be
> driving it at high revs very much I'm still going to change out to the
> narrow drive belt just because I can incorporate a vibration damper.
> >
> >
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 17:12:24 +1000
> > From: varley at cosmos.net.au
> > To: ynotink at msn.com
> > CC: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi Bill, don't let them grind the cam journals, it seems undersize
> > cam bearings are not obtainable. King bearings had a problem many
> > years ago but I believe there are no problems with them now.
> > Vandervell did make bearings for the 100 years ago but they would
> > be hard to find these days. The 100 block is very soft iron, my car
> > had a massive ring groove even though the engine had only done 8000
> > miles from new. I had it bored to 3 5/8 and sleeved it back to 3 1/2
> > using good quality iron liners from LA Sleeve. I used semi dished
> > plus 0.060 pistons from JP pistons here in Australia. They give a
> > final compression ratio of about 9.5 to 1. I would see no problem
> > with machining the top of the pistons back flush as it would only be
> > a very small amount. My head gasket is 0.040 thick composite
> > material with steel rings around the bores. As long as the pistons
> > are no more than flush with the top of the bore you should have no
> > problem.
> >
> > Hope it all works out
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Larry Varley
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On 26/06/2015 2:33 PM, WILLIAM B
> > LAWRENCE wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks for the advise Larry,
> >
> >
> >
> > Yeah, I was wondering about the piston clearance since I
> > don't really know what the stock deck height is supposed to be
> > or how much it has been cut before. I'm planning on using
> > Denis Welch's 100M pistons and their MLS head gasket. I
> > suppose I could use a shim to clear the pistons if they are
> > too close, but that would defeat the purpose of the MLS
> > gasket. Instead of that I've been thinking of having the top
> > of the piston (ring around the pocket) cut back enough to
> > clear the head if necessary. The metal seems to be plenty
> > thick there.
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm planning to do several fit ups with an old gasket
> > (assuming the new gasket will crush to the near the same
> > dimension) and check for interference and clearances with some
> > modeling clay. I've heard there is an optimal piston to head
> > dimension to reduce the squish area while still allowing
> > clearance for rod thermal expansion. If you have any
> > information on that or on any other tricks or rules of thumb I
> > could use the info.
> >
> >
> >
> > I'm sending my camshaft back to Iskendarian to have it
> > freshened up. I really liked their grind so don't feel the
> > need to change.
> >
> >
> >
> > Checking over the engine while I was disassembling it, a
> > lot of the grime I thought was coming from gasketed joints was
> > actually from the copious amounts of oil running out of the
> > head joint. Most of my joints seemed to be successfully sealed
> > although I may have had a problem with the rear lip seal. I
> > think I overextended the garter spring while I was assembling
> > it. Not a lot of room for my big clumsy fingers to manipulate
> > the spring. I think I'll assemble it on the crank before I lay
> > it in the block this time. I'm always amazed when I think
> > about the rear cam journal being sealed by a gasket on the end
> > plate. It's a miracle it doesn't leak, but I guess most don't.
> > Extra support there would be a good thing.
> >
> >
> >
> > Right now I'm working on sourcing parts and I'm running
> > into a blank wall when I look for good quality engine
> > bearings. Moss has some trimetal rod bearings by King, but I
> > don't know anything about them and I would want the same for
> > the mains too. I'd like to find some Vandervells or similar
> > quality bearings, but all their parts lists I've seen don't
> > include the A90 engine.
> >
> >
> >
> > Again, thanks for your input. I'm going to need all the
> > help I can get.
> >
> >
> >
> > Oh, and while the engine is down I'm going to be working on
> > the body and interior too. A Healey has an image to uphold and
> > so far mine is falling short.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bill Lawrence
> > BN1 #554
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Fri, 26 Jun 2015 20:04:25 -0700
> > From: "=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=" <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Healeys] o/d again
> > Message-ID: <20150627030425.8371.qmail at server278.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > just got the replacement springs for the triumph o/d type A I am working
> on. all eight springs are the exact same length. 4 are yellow tipped and 4
> are red tipped. the red tipped ones appear weaker than the yellow tipped
> ones. did laycock come up with a new technical change and not notify
> triumph, as all their repair manuals talk about short and long springs. the
> springs that were in the o/d are exactly like the ones I received today.
> while perusing a type A repair video I noticed that the guy doing the
> repair had a set of springs he was going to install that had red and yellow
> painted tips. appears to me that the weaker springs compress to the same
> tension as the stronger ones to replace short/long springs. can anyone clue
> me in as to what is happening.
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2015 05:33:46 +0000 (UTC)
> > From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> > To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>, Larry Varley
> > <varley at cosmos.net.au>
> > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] FW: Oil again
> > Message-ID:
> > <1425696359.2919315.1435383226543.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
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> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Subject: Digest Footer
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Healeys mailing list
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
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> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 181
> > ***************************************
>
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