[Healeys] BJ8 Brakes - Update and success

Roger Grace roggrace at telus.net
Tue Jul 5 14:45:09 MDT 2016


Michael,
Thank you
Yes agree, unfortunately this is not how they have built them.
Spoken at length with the manufacturer BCC in the UK. Of course they have “never had this problem before”. Evidently this is a sort of generic calliper design and used on numerous similar (minor mods for each marque) classic cars - Jags, Morgans, Triumphs etc. Also spoke to Rawles who have installed several - also with no problems.

Anyhow, decided to try to eliminate the trapped air now that I understood the problem much better.
Concocted some bits together, such that with my air supply, was able to feed brake fluid (no air bubbles) at about 5-10 psi into an open bleed valve at each calliper. Then also cracked open the pipe connection on the inside and let some fluid escape. This must have got rid of the trapped air (not able to see as too many bits to manage)  and the brake pedal is now right up where it should be. Phew what a saga ... !

Also after doing some digging about bleeding in general, there is a lot to be said for this “reverse bleeding” technique. It makes sense to try to force the air upwards instead of using fluid pressure downwards. I had not heard of it before and likely would have solved my issue. Lots of people swear by it and reverse bleeding kits are sold. 

Many tkx
rg


From: Michael Salter 
Sent: Monday, July 4, 2016 7:22 PM
To: Roger Grace 
Cc: Andy Thorp ; Healey List 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes

Have to agree with Andy,

Although one cannot see exactly where the cross over pipe runs it "shuold run from the top of the first side to the bottom of the second side otherwise as Andy pointed out there would be no way to eliminate the air from the first (brake hose) side.

Michael S



On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 1:31 PM, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:

  Yes these are the beasts. Thanks for that Andy and to all for numerous
  ideas.
  Yes, and given all the bleeding have done it hopefully is the issue.
  This morning I took 3/4 of a jam jar (almost a reservoir) of fluid out of
  each wheel; minimal air came out using a vacuum pump.
  Some minor improvement and pedal now about an inch from floor on first pump
  and car is ... maybe driveable.
  As I don't have a helper have to use this technique; it took but 10 mins to bleed when I recently changed out my booster; have also ordered some
  Russell Speed Bleeders.

  Not quite sure how to address this reverse bleeding procedure that Andy
  suggests.
  I have a vacuum pump that have been using to bleed with and it does not
  involve any pedal pumping.
  Was thinking of trying to suck from the booster bleeder, from each calliper in turn -
  any thoughts ?

  Tkx
  rg



  -----Original Message----- From: Andy Thorp
  Sent: Sunday, July 3, 2016 2:51 AM
  To: 'Healey List'
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes

  If these are the calipers in question then the reason for the problem is
  kind of obvious- there is no way of getting air out of one half as it has to
  flow downwards, then across the bottom pipe and up the other side. Any air
  stuck in the bores behind the pistons will stay trapped there. Reverse
  bleeding should clear it if the internal drillings are done sensibly.

  https://www.ahspares.co.uk/product-images/fullsize/10a937bf-2288-4027-a5ec-2e753aadac6f-3.jpg

  Andy.
  --------------------------------------------
  On Sun, 3/7/16, Simon Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk> wrote:

  Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Brakes
  To: "'Healey List'" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "'Roger Grace'"
  <roggrace at telus.net>
  Received: Sunday, 3 July, 2016, 8:17 PM

  Bleeding brakes can drive you
  crazy.See the attached, from my BMC
  manual. It addresses the question rather neatly, suggesting
  that air may be drawn in at the end of the downward push;
  for example, the threads on the bleeders may be slightly
  worn.The trick is to close the bleeder
  100% before the downward stroke ie, most important, while
  fluid is still coming out.A device such as A Gunson’s
  Eezibleed will mange that OK.The pdf’s first line may seem a
  little strange......it’s a note addressed to myself. The
  relevant paragraph is not in my pdf version of the manual
  for some reason so I added it as a reminder.Good luck,Simon
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-- 

If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.


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