[Healeys] Gearbox oil
george mcharris
gmcharris at hotmail.com
Wed Nov 2 15:17:51 MDT 2016
I switched to Redline 75/90 gear oil 30K miles ago after OD began locking up. No problems since.
George McHarris
________________________________
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Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2016 6:32 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 9, Issue 304
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Today's Topics:
1. Please disregard request on door handle repair
(Charles "CJ" Johnson)
2. Re: Gearbox oil (Team.net)
3. Re: How about running ATF in your transmission?
(Austin Healeys List)
4. Re: Gearbox oil (Michael Salter)
5. Re: brake servo parts (Bob)
6. Re: Gearbox oil (Simon Lachlan)
7. Re: brake servo parts (Bob Spidell)
8. Re: brake servo parts (Bob Spidell)
9. Oil Degreasers (Michael MacLean)
10. Re: Oil Degreasers (Oudesluys)
11. Re: Oil Degreasers (Alan Seigrist)
12. Re: Gearbox oil (Oudesluys)
13. Re: Gearbox oil (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
14. Re: Oil Degreasers (Bob Spidell)
15. Missing pages. (Simon Lachlan)
16. Re: Oil Degreasers (michael.salter at gmail.com)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 14:05:21 -0400
From: "Charles \"CJ\" Johnson" <charles1783 at charter.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Please disregard request on door handle repair
Message-ID: <3EB8C5A7-EEB0-42E6-8ADA-02E2F4B4DFE4 at charter.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
The handle is snapped and will have to be replaced.
V/r
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 14:20:27 -0400
From: "Team.net" <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>
To: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
Message-ID: <AF4293DD-A5BB-43AA-8583-F985AE8BE378 at gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I tried Redline at one point and the gearbox leaked profusely. Changed back to 30wtnd and now only have the typical drips.
Moral to the story: all our cars are different so what works for one may not work for others.
> On Nov 1, 2016, at 12:06 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Another question that will result in a lot of different opinions. I've always used 30-weight non-detergent oil in my gearbox and overdrive. Non-detergent according to the theory that because there is no oil filter in the system non-detergent oil allows any wear particles to settle out of the oil instead of being continuously circulated through the mechanicals.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC
>
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] On Behalf Of Charlie Schott
> Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 9:45 AM
> To: Richard Kahn; Richard Ewald
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
>
> Will someone please tell me what weight of oil to use in a BJ8 gearbox with overdrive. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 10:08:10 +1300
From: Austin Healeys List <austinhealeyslist at gmail.com>
To: Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos at msn.com>
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] How about running ATF in your transmission?
Message-ID:
<CAGHuNqA_Hvrr1nAwuYSE0sTDG0KAcpNfbP6LKMXoDF-9vDbXeA at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
I ran atf in my not-Healey for about ten years and the box was
noisier, leaked more and took a long time to spin down to engage the
unsynchronised 1st gear. The synchro action on 2 and 3 is considerably
better though, particularly when cold. Went back to Redline
conventional transmission oil and it seems to be a better compromise.
The Tremec gearbox has a lot of large gears spinning over in there so
I'd imagine ATF has an advantage with reduced viscosity drag plus less
ability to lubricate the synchroniser cone during shifting. 1980s
Japanese 5 speed transaxles had the same issue and used ATF to improve
gear shifting.
ATF will likely have detergents in it so may stir up all that brass
sludge which accumulates in the OD cavities in an old gearbox.
On 11/2/16, Henry Morrison <dos_gusanos at msn.com> wrote:
> Maybe this one has been covered before, but TREMEC insists in using in their
> 5 speeds so the synchronizers engage properly. I tried it in my Elva and
> the synchronizers didn't grind at the last race in New Orleans.
>
>
> http://www.tremec.com/menu.php?m=110#Q2
>
>
> Scroll down to read their argument.........
>
>
> Thinking about putting it in the Healey.
>
>
> Cheers, Henry Morrison, Albuquerque, NM
>
>
> Sent from Outlook<http://aka.ms/weboutlook>
>
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 17:14:27 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: Forum <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
Message-ID:
<CAB3i7LJXYxhXNp+cY+tVQYnsgPGcZ34Nym=dyji1FaBXtAcaSQ at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
The subject of gearbox oils has be discussed on this list more than once.
I am not advocating the use of gear oil in these boxes but the subject is
sure to be raised again..
In the interests of saving some band width a couple of points.
1. No one has ever reported seeing any evidence of Extreme Pressure
(EP) additives damaging the bronze syncro rings in our gearboxes.
2. Laycock DeNormanville, the manufacturer of our overdrive units DO
NOT specify what lubricant is used in their overdrive units, they leave
that up to the manufacturer of the gearbox to which it is attached and
shares its lubricant. EP oils will not adversely affect the overdrive
unit, in fact 80/90 gear oil was the factory recommendation for the TR6
with either type of overdrive "A" or "J".
Now back to regularly scheduled program :-)
Michael S
BN1 #174
On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 1:08 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com> wrote:
> I agree with Steve. I'm now using Penrite GB30 Gearbox oil.
>
> Derek
>
> On Tue, Nov 1, 2016 at 4:06 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Another question that will result in a lot of different opinions. I've
>> always used 30-weight non-detergent oil in my gearbox and overdrive.
>> Non-detergent according to the theory that because there is no oil filter
>> in the system non-detergent oil allows any wear particles to settle out of
>> the oil instead of being continuously circulated through the mechanicals.
>>
>>
>>
>> Steve Byers
>>
>> HBJ8L/36666
>>
>> BJ8 Registry
>>
>> AHCA Delegate at Large
>>
>> Havelock, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Charlie
>> Schott
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 01, 2016 9:45 AM
>> *To:* Richard Kahn; Richard Ewald
>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
>>
>>
>>
>> Will someone please tell me what weight of oil to use in a BJ8 gearbox
>> with overdrive. Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>>
>> Charlie Schott
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
>> options/healeys/derek.c.job at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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>
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>
>
>
--
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 17:56:07 -0400
From: Bob <robertlarson at att.net>
To: Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>, Simon
Lachlan <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake servo parts
Message-ID: <f920c7d0-4fe7-8734-abc5-cea65ca96823 at att.net>
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 00:21:36 -0000
From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Team.net'" <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>, "'BJ8Healeys'"
<sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Cc: 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
Message-ID: <00cb01d2349f$13b6b0b0$3b241210$@lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
30wt non detergent.
Drips? Hard to tell but I don't think so. Certainly no more than before.
Gear change/overdrive??......just about noticeable improvement on previous
20/50.
Better for the gearbox's internals? The jury remains out on that one!
Worth it? Well there's nothing earth shatteringly different. Do it if you're
draining anyhow. Or if you are having sluggish OD changes...might help.
Overall observations:- 1) make sure that you've got the filter and the
magnets. Doesn't make much difference what oil you use if they're missing.
2) Consider swapping the mad notched drain plug monstrosity for the earlier
one with the spanner/socket friendly hex. Once that's done, the whole
process becomes much easier.
Steve's right.....this topic is a real Golden Oldie.
You'll have noticed that threads related to the choice of oils brings out
some fairly spirited remarks!?
Simon
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Team.net
Sent: 01 November 2016 18:20
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
I tried Redline at one point and the gearbox leaked profusely. Changed back
to 30wtnd and now only have the typical drips.
Moral to the story: all our cars are different so what works for one may not
work for others.
On Nov 1, 2016, at 12:06 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
Another question that will result in a lot of different opinions. I've
always used 30-weight non-detergent oil in my gearbox and overdrive.
Non-detergent according to the theory that because there is no oil filter in
the system non-detergent oil allows any wear particles to settle out of the
oil instead of being continuously circulated through the mechanicals.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC
From: Healeys [ <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Schott
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 9:45 AM
To: Richard Kahn; Richard Ewald
Cc: <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
Will someone please tell me what weight of oil to use in a BJ8 gearbox with
overdrive. Thanks.
Regards,
Charlie Schott
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 17:24:45 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake servo parts
Message-ID: <10bf0c68-4462-e407-923b-80e4345f6236 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
Buna-N aka nitrile.
I've ordered from here before:
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=367_23
Good service.
Bob
On 11/1/2016 8:44 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:
>
> Look, I haven?t played with a Lockheed Servo in years but my initial
> response was to suggest that you buy a box of different size
> ?O-rings?. We get them over here anyhow....a plastic box about 5? by
> 3? with little compartments filled with different sized rings. Costs
> nothing and the contents will keep you going forever. And there will
> be a ring in there that fits. And they are probably on eBay. BUT, BUT,
> will an ordinary O-ring survive in brake fluid? I don?t know, but I do
> know that I put in a Girling rebuild kit once which worked fine for a
> while and then gave up. There was no warning, no gradual process. I
> nearly hit a wall. One of the little nylony/rubbery things had turned
> itself into something with the same consistency and usefulness as a
> ten year old tea bag. It didn?t like brake fluid and it dissolved.
>
> A few enquiries of the right people should see you right....
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Tom
> *Sent:* 01 November 2016 12:48
> *To:* Healey Mail List
> *Subject:* [Healeys] brake servo parts
>
> Hi,
>
> I am looking for a source for the 4 small O-rings that go on the air
> valve piston on the Lockheed brake booster for my BJ8.
>
> Just to make sure I described the part correctly, the air valve piston
> is #5 at
> http://www.v8register.net/FilesV8WN/Brake%20servo%20working%20note%20190109.pdf,
> or the "reaction piston" at
> http://www.triumph-spitfire.nl/servoimages.htm.
>
> I took the whole thing apart last winter, and everything looks like
> it's in good shape, so I don't need to replace the whole booster or
> get a re-build kit from Moss, just looking for 4 O-rings.
>
> thanks,
>
> Tom
>
>
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 17:58:46 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] brake servo parts
Message-ID: <c1528de3-7552-214b-bd26-c4fda7fab44a at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
I pressed 'enter' too soon .... looks like viton is a better choice:
http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=page_3&zenid=d7c9a91ed7c20053fc9a69f05159459e
On 11/1/2016 8:44 AM, Simon Lachlan wrote:
>
> Look, I haven?t played with a Lockheed Servo in years but my initial
> response was to suggest that you buy a box of different size
> ?O-rings?. We get them over here anyhow....a plastic box about 5? by
> 3? with little compartments filled with different sized rings. Costs
> nothing and the contents will keep you going forever. And there will
> be a ring in there that fits. And they are probably on eBay. BUT, BUT,
> will an ordinary O-ring survive in brake fluid? I don?t know, but I do
> know that I put in a Girling rebuild kit once which worked fine for a
> while and then gave up. There was no warning, no gradual process. I
> nearly hit a wall. One of the little nylony/rubbery things had turned
> itself into something with the same consistency and usefulness as a
> ten year old tea bag. It didn?t like brake fluid and it dissolved.
>
> A few enquiries of the right people should see you right....
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Tom
> *Sent:* 01 November 2016 12:48
> *To:* Healey Mail List
> *Subject:* [Healeys] brake servo parts
>
> Hi,
>
> I am looking for a source for the 4 small O-rings that go on the air
> valve piston on the Lockheed brake booster for my BJ8.
>
> Just to make sure I described the part correctly, the air valve piston
> is #5 at
> http://www.v8register.net/FilesV8WN/Brake%20servo%20working%20note%20190109.pdf,
> or the "reaction piston" at
> http://www.triumph-spitfire.nl/servoimages.htm.
>
> I took the whole thing apart last winter, and everything looks like
> it's in good shape, so I don't need to replace the whole booster or
> get a re-build kit from Moss, just looking for 4 O-rings.
>
> thanks,
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 04:25:43 +0000 (UTC)
From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
To: Healeys Help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Degreasers
Message-ID: <1533140132.107335.1478060743793 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Guys,???? A while back I had my differential sand blasted.? It's already done, so let's move on to the problem.? The weeks following the sand blasting, I could not get to painting it yet.? Now, oil has spread from the drain plug, all over the bottom of the pumpkin.? The sand blasting did not help things and makes the oil removal a problem.? What is the best product to remove any trace of this oil so I can paint my diff?? Remember, I am in California where anything that works or is effective is probably banned.
Mike MacLean
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 10:11:10 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Degreasers
Message-ID: <0a99fd6c-c3cb-2129-524e-1ddc2f6cfd95 at chello.nl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
You could try a brake cleaner spray bottle/can.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 2-11-2016 om 5:25 schreef Michael MacLean:
> Guys,
> A while back I had my differential sand blasted. It's already
> done, so let's move on to the problem. The weeks following the sand
> blasting, I could not get to painting it yet. Now, oil has spread
> from the drain plug, all over the bottom of the pumpkin. The sand
> blasting did not help things and makes the oil removal a problem.
> What is the best product to remove any trace of this oil so I can
> paint my diff? Remember, I am in California where anything that works
> or is effective is probably banned.
> Mike MacLean
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
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Message: 11
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 17:13:36 +0800
From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: Healeys Help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Degreasers
Message-ID:
<CAFBXTkJwdvMZk-u5Umjd3YeLtbgq5io=JT0uZM-3Zvwf8uufEw at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Carb or Brake Cleaner will do the trick and isn't necessarily banned in
California. I think some brake cleaners are banned but I'm pretty sure you
can still get carb cleaner in CA.
On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 12:25 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:
> Guys,
> A while back I had my differential sand blasted. It's already done,
> so let's move on to the problem. The weeks following the sand blasting, I
> could not get to painting it yet. Now, oil has spread from the drain plug,
> all over the bottom of the pumpkin. The sand blasting did not help things
> and makes the oil removal a problem. What is the best product to remove
> any trace of this oil so I can paint my diff? Remember, I am in California
> where anything that works or is effective is probably banned.
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
>
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Message: 12
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 10:24:38 +0100
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
Message-ID: <65042c4c-edfb-bdd9-6b04-613eaedb232c at chello.nl>
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If there are bronze/brass baulk/synchro rings in the gearbox it is best
to be on the safe side and not use EP oils that contain halogens F, Cl,
Br, I as these may attack the bronze/brass components. Sunbeam for that
matter stipulated to use SEA 30 or 20W50 engine oil. I do not see a
reason to take the risk using EP oils. They do not ad much if anything.
Straight or detergent containing does not matter much if you change the
oil on a regular basis as prescribed in those days. Oil is cheap so I
change the oil in my gearbox every time I change the engine oil, i.e.
once a year. Use a drain plug with a magnet.
Modern gearboxes may not even have a drain plug as the oil is never
changed and we have become used to that!
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 2-11-2016 om 1:21 schreef Simon Lachlan:
>
> 30wt non detergent.
>
> Drips? Hard to tell but I don?t think so. Certainly no more than before.
>
> Gear change/overdrive??......just about noticeable improvement on
> previous 20/50.
>
> Better for the gearbox?s internals? The jury remains out on that one!
>
> Worth it? Well there?s nothing earth shatteringly different. Do it if
> you?re draining anyhow. Or if you are having sluggish OD
> changes...might help.
>
> Overall observations:- 1) make sure that you?ve got the filter and the
> magnets. Doesn?t make much difference what oil you use if they?re missing.
>
> 2) Consider swapping the mad notched drain plug monstrosity for the
> earlier one with the spanner/socket friendly hex. Once that?s done,
> the whole process becomes much easier.
>
> Steve?s right.....this topic is a real Golden Oldie.
>
> You?ll have noticed that threads related to the choice of oils brings
> out some fairly spirited remarks!?
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of
> *Team.net
> *Sent:* 01 November 2016 18:20
> *To:* BJ8Healeys
> *Cc:* Ahealey help
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
>
> I tried Redline at one point and the gearbox leaked profusely.
> Changed back to 30wtnd and now only have the typical drips.
>
> Moral to the story: all our cars are different so what works for one
> may not work for others.
>
> On Nov 1, 2016, at 12:06 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com
> <mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>> wrote:
>
> Another question that will result in a lot of different opinions.
> I've always used 30-weight non-detergent oil in my gearbox and
> overdrive. Non-detergent according to the theory that because
> there is no oil filter in the system non-detergent oil allows any
> wear particles to settle out of the oil instead of being
> continuously circulated through the mechanicals.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]*On Behalf
> Of*Charlie Schott
> *Sent:*Tuesday, November 01, 2016 9:45 AM
> *To:*Richard Kahn; Richard Ewald
> *Cc:*healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:*Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
>
> Will someone please tell me what weight of oil to use in a BJ8
> gearbox with overdrive. Thanks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Charlie Schott
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>
>
> _______________________________________________
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Message: 13
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 11:10:24 +0000
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <YNOTINK at msn.com>
To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>, "healeys at autox.team.net"
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
Message-ID:
<DM3PR19MB0569E6933730DE5A5C499F88A5A00 at DM3PR19MB0569.namprd19.prod.outlook.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
EP lubes are formulated with an anti-friction additive especially for use in hypoid gear sets. That is because hypoid gears use a sliding contact rather than a rolling contact and the EP additive is required eliminate friction and to allow them to survive in use.
EP lubes should not be used in mechanisms that require built in friction to operate properly such as synchronizer rings in transmissions or limited slip differentials.
Detergents in oils are intended to suspend microscopic contaminants such as soot particles in engine oil so it doesn't settle out and form deposits in oil passages. I will not suspend large particles such as brass or iron filings.
Bill Lawrence
BN1#554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Sent: Wednesday, November 2, 2016 9:24:38 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
If there are bronze/brass baulk/synchro rings in the gearbox it is best to be on the safe side and not use EP oils that contain halogens F, Cl, Br, I as these may attack the bronze/brass components. Sunbeam for that matter stipulated to use SEA 30 or 20W50 engine oil. I do not see a reason to take the risk using EP oils. They do not ad much if anything. Straight or detergent containing does not matter much if you change the oil on a regular basis as prescribed in those days. Oil is cheap so I change the oil in my gearbox every time I change the engine oil, i.e. once a year. Use a drain plug with a magnet.
Modern gearboxes may not even have a drain plug as the oil is never changed and we have become used to that!
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 2-11-2016 om 1:21 schreef Simon Lachlan:
30wt non detergent.
Drips? Hard to tell but I don?t think so. Certainly no more than before.
Gear change/overdrive??......just about noticeable improvement on previous 20/50.
Better for the gearbox?s internals? The jury remains out on that one!
Worth it? Well there?s nothing earth shatteringly different. Do it if you?re draining anyhow. Or if you are having sluggish OD changes...might help.
Overall observations:- 1) make sure that you?ve got the filter and the magnets. Doesn?t make much difference what oil you use if they?re missing.
2) Consider swapping the mad notched drain plug monstrosity for the earlier one with the spanner/socket friendly hex. Once that?s done, the whole process becomes much easier.
Steve?s right.....this topic is a real Golden Oldie.
You?ll have noticed that threads related to the choice of oils brings out some fairly spirited remarks!?
Simon
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Team.net
Sent: 01 November 2016 18:20
To: BJ8Healeys
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
I tried Redline at one point and the gearbox leaked profusely. Changed back to 30wtnd and now only have the typical drips.
Moral to the story: all our cars are different so what works for one may not work for others.
On Nov 1, 2016, at 12:06 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com<mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>> wrote:
Another question that will result in a lot of different opinions. I've always used 30-weight non-detergent oil in my gearbox and overdrive. Non-detergent according to the theory that because there is no oil filter in the system non-detergent oil allows any wear particles to settle out of the oil instead of being continuously circulated through the mechanicals.
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charlie Schott
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2016 9:45 AM
To: Richard Kahn; Richard Ewald
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gearbox oil
Will someone please tell me what weight of oil to use in a BJ8 gearbox with overdrive. Thanks.
Regards,
Charlie Schott
_______________________________________________
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 04:46:10 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Degreasers
Message-ID: <b8d5cbd9-b7af-97c9-68d8-b01f916af578 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
Agree with Alan, but follow-up with a 'pre-paint prep' similar to
*http://tinyurl.com/hhz5u8s*
I haven't used the Eastwood stuff, but got something similar at the
local auto paint store (in California).
Bob
On 11/2/2016 2:13 AM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
> Carb or Brake Cleaner will do the trick and isn't necessarily banned
> in California. I think some brake cleaners are banned but I'm pretty
> sure you can still get carb cleaner in CA.
>
> On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 12:25 PM, Michael MacLean
> <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>> wrote:
>
> Guys,
> A while back I had my differential sand blasted. It's already
> done, so let's move on to the problem. The weeks following the
> sand blasting, I could not get to painting it yet. Now, oil has
> spread from the drain plug, all over the bottom of the pumpkin.
> The sand blasting did not help things and makes the oil removal a
> problem. What is the best product to remove any trace of this oil
> so I can paint my diff? Remember, I am in California where
> anything that works or is effective is probably banned.
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
>
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 12:52:12 -0000
From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
To: "'Ahealey help'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Missing pages.
Message-ID: <004e01d23507$ef032690$cd0973b0$@lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hi,
I'm on the scrounge......
I have a pdf version of the BMC manual (AKD 1179H). Supposedly covers BN4 &
BN6 plus the 3000s.
Anyhow, I seem to be missing Gearbox sections FF & FFF. Can anyone spare the
time to email me those pages?
Thanks,
Simon
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Message: 16
Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2016 13:32:13 +0000 (UTC)
From: michael.salter at gmail.com
To: Healeys Help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Degreasers
Message-ID:
<749F94B05E660FF2.bd2348aa-b71e-4fb0-912f-a8d1a89be148 at mail.outlook.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
I just finished doing exactly that job on a rear end and steering box.
I use brake clean for final degreasing but one important detail.
Keep applying the brake clean until it runs off the bottom of the part CLEAR. It took 1 full cans to degrease these 2 items.
I then wipe off as much as I can will a clean cloth.
Michael S
BN1 #174
On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 7:56 AM -0400, "Bob Spidell" <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
Agree with Alan, but follow-up with a 'pre-paint prep' similar to
http://tinyurl.com/hhz5u8s
I haven't used the Eastwood stuff, but got something similar at
the local auto paint store (in California).
Bob
On 11/2/2016 2:13 AM, Alan Seigrist
wrote:
Carb or Brake Cleaner will do the trick and isn't
necessarily banned in California.? I think some brake cleaners
are banned but I'm pretty sure you can still get carb cleaner in
CA.
On Wed, Nov 2, 2016 at 12:25 PM,
Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:
Guys,
????
A while back I had my differential sand blasted.? It's
already done, so let's move on to the problem.? The
weeks following the sand blasting, I could not get to
painting it yet.? Now, oil has spread from the drain
plug, all over the bottom of the pumpkin.? The sand
blasting did not help things and makes the oil removal
a problem.? What is the best product to remove any
trace of this oil so I can paint my diff?? Remember, I
am in California where anything that works or is
effective is probably banned.
Mike
MacLean
_______________________________________________
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