[Healeys] Engine mountings

[teamhealeytexas]

I solved the problem years ago on my ‘62 BT-7 race car. I replaced the stock mounts with solid aluminum blocks, and reinforced the frame mounting brackets. Not concours of course, but no worries about the rubber. Any additional vibration is neglible - these are proper British cars that were made 50+ years ago, and the only time there are no vibrations is when the engine is off and sitting in the garage). The engine block also stiffens the frame which may not be much of an issue on a street car, but sure helps the rigidity on the race car. With 15 years of racing on the car, everything is still good (of course other parts may fall off, but that engine ain’t a goin’ nowheres). 

Y'all take care, eh?
Fred
Team Healey Texas

From: Bob Spidell 
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2016 9:54 AM
To: Simon Lachlan 
Cc: healeys 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine mountings


Hi Simon,

My responses below preceded by '>>>'

Bob

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From: "Simon Lachlan" <simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk>
To: "Ahealey help" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 16, 2016 7:12:25 AM
Subject: [Healeys] Engine mountings


I read the emails regarding the delaminating of these mountings and, allowing for inflation, even added my tuppence worth. Rather belatedly I decided to look at mine as they weren’t new when I bought the car back in ’96. And, naturally, there is bad news. The RHS (manifold side) mounting is delaminating along its front edge, starting at the top and going about 20% of the way down. See attached.

The other side of that mounting seems fine though it is practically impossible to see and none of the other rubber bits on either side of the engine are showing any signs of problems. So, it’s only that one section.

What I propose to do is this:-

1)      Not panic as this seems to have been a gradual process and there is no apparent reason why this process might speed up. I’m right to think that???



>>> No reason to panic.  I've never heard of a Big Healey engine falling out of its compartment.



2)      Replace ALL the rubber laminated parts of the mountings.....2 bits on either side.



>>> OK, but no one has identified a source of 'non-delaminating' mounts, yets.  If you find one please let us know.



3)      Achieve all of this with minimal disruption ie without removing the carbs (Webers) or exhaust manifolds though I concede that the centrerone may have to be loosened off. (Stainless big bore 6 branch). Certainly not going to take the engine out. I see myself supporting the engine and even moving it around fractionally with a couple of small trolley jacks.



>>> I raised my engine a couple inches a while back to replace the timing cover seal (I have a mostly stock BJ8 with SU carbs).   I think you can do it, too, but not sure how you'll clear the headers on the port side.  Make sure whatever throttle operating mechanism you have can either bend that much without damage, or disconnect it.  I put a 2x4 under the pan to raise the engine with a floor jack and it put a 4" wide dent in the pan.  if you come up with a better way to raise the engine please let us all know.  I took my engine out a couple months ago and on the engine side the mounts took quite a bit of effort to remove (I'd installed them almost 30 years ago and must have torqued them with all my might).  You might need to 'lever up,' and, hopefully, you'll have room.



4)      Do the LHS (dizzy) side first as it seems to be easier and I’ll hopefully learn a thing or two in the process.



>>> Sounds prudent.



So, how am I doing?

a)      I presume (ha!) it can be done per 3) above??? Can it?

b)      Are there any obvious “dos and don’ts”??

c)       I’m in the UK......are there any of our “usual suspects” whose engine mounting rubber is less suspicious than others??

d)      Anything else I’ve missed?? There usually is!



Looking forward to your advice more than to the work involved,

Simon








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