[Healeys] Sloppy clutch fork

[Bob Spidell]

Thanks Bob.

Do the new bushes require reaming?

Bob


On 9/20/2016 1:39 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Back in the day when team.net had a web site, I had a page that showed 
> how I replaced the shaft and the bushing.  I see on the Moss page you 
> sent that they sell a repair kit with the bushes, shaft and taper pin. 
> If you go that route, you might ask Moss if you need a (number 2) 
> tapered reamer to finish the hole in the shaft that the pin goes in.
>
> Remove the bellhousing from the gearbox.  The taper pin is pushed out 
> from the gearbox side.  There's a hole in the bellhousing that you can 
> insert a drift/punch through.  Unscrew the brass screw at the end of 
> the shaft.  Use a slide hammer screwed into the end of the shaft 
> (1/4"-28) to remove the shaft from the fork.  Use a 5/8" diameter 
> drift with a 1/2" pilot to remove the bushings.
>
> If the tapered pin is stuck, I wouldn't suggest using any heat. There 
> are two plastic washers on either side of the clutch fork. Moss refers 
> to them as thrust washers (#19).
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 MkI registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 09/19/2016 09:06 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> Listers,
>>
>> Got my gearbox and OD broken from the engine.  Biggest surprise was the
>> 'release bearing;' it has over 100K on it and looks like it could go
>> another 100K.  Also, the first motion shaft has a bit more wear than I
>> would like; anyone think this is a problem?
>>
>> The 'clutch fork'--part# 14 on this page:
>> http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28878&SortOrder=220--has 
>>
>> a bit of slop.  If you grab the outer part of the fork and move it up
>> and down, it has maybe 3/32" of movement up and down on the bearing
>> end.  Is this normal, excessive, no big deal, etc.?   If it's a terrible
>> thing, anybody put new bushes in and, if so, how big a job is it?
>>
>> TIA,
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
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>