[Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ

[WILLIAM B LAWRENCE]

Michael,


Having recently rebuilt my engine I can attest that there are no horizontal bolts holding the main caps to the engine block. What you may be seeing are some of the capscrews that hold the engine adapter plate in place. You should be able to remove the main cap after removing those bolts. They are accessible under the timing cover. Replacement may be a little delicate as that is a gasketed joint.


Good luck.


Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 1, 2017 5:22:51 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ

Looking at the exploded view of the bottom end of the 100 engine on page D/224 of the service manual I see that there are two horizontal bolts that fasten the front main cap into the block that are, I assume, accessible via the timing cvhanin cover.

I do not see such hole(s) for the rear main cap. Are there any horizontal bolts going through the rear plate into the rear main cap that would require the removal of the engine or transmission for access to them?

Judging by the condition of the oil pump gears and end plate I do believe that a lot of the lost oil pressure will be cured by replacing the pump. I have not yet removed the front main cap but the center main shell and crank journal were in pretty good shape with no discoloration, scoring, etc.

I'm certainly willing to replace the rod bearings and mains that I can access with the engine/transmission in place but do not want to pull it or the transmission if possible. I know that best practice would be to replace all mains but if there are such bolts and I choose not to pull the engine or transmission to access them I am making a big mistake by replacing only the front and center mains?

Best--Michael Oritt
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