[Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ

Tue Oct 3 11:24:30 MDT 2017

The early BN1 motor has two bolt that go thru the rear engine plate into the rear main cap. If you have installed an aftermarket rear seal kit it is bolted to the rear main cap.  However you are going to create other problems by removing the front and rear main caps with the engine in place. You will tear the front and  rear engine plate gaskets. The rear one isnt as much of a problem but I guarantee that the front one will leak when you put it back together. 

DON’T do it 

David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

From: Michael Oritt 
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2017 8:50 AM
To: Jonas Payne 
Cc: Austin Healey 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ

Jonas--

I'm aware of the bolts for the front main bearing cap and they are accessible with engine in.  lt is the rear main cap that I am concerned with and while I will take your word that they existed on the car you reference even if there were not I have decided against attempting its removal as the chance of damaging the gasket/seal is great.  I'll replace the oil pump and rod bearings--the mains will simply have to live a bit longer!

Best--Michael Oritt

On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 11:38 AM, Jonas Payne <jpaynepbr at cox.net> wrote:

  There were horizontal bolts front and rear on George McHarris’s 100-4. It precluded an engine in rebuild.

  Jonas Payne

  PBR Consulting Services, LLC

  702.882.6711

  From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
  Sent: Monday, October 2, 2017 11:11 PM
  To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>; Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ

  Michael,

  Having recently rebuilt my engine I can attest that there are no horizontal bolts holding the main caps to the engine block. What you may be seeing are some of the capscrews that hold the engine adapter plate in place. You should be able to remove the main cap after removing those bolts. They are accessible under the timing cover. Replacement may be a little delicate as that is a gasketed joint.

  Good luck. 

  Bill Lawrence

  BN1 #554

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
  Sent: Sunday, October 1, 2017 5:22:51 PM
  To: Austin Healey
  Subject: [Healeys] 100 Main Bearing Caps--Removal In Situ 

  Looking at the exploded view of the bottom end of the 100 engine on page D/224 of the service manual I see that there are two horizontal bolts that fasten the front main cap into the block that are, I assume, accessible via the timing cvhanin cover.

  I do not see such hole(s) for the rear main cap. Are there any horizontal bolts going through the rear plate into the rear main cap that would require the removal of the engine or transmission for access to them?

  Judging by the condition of the oil pump gears and end plate I do believe that a lot of the lost oil pressure will be cured by replacing the pump. I have not yet removed the front main cap but the center main shell and crank journal were in pretty good shape with no discoloration, scoring, etc. 

  I'm certainly willing to replace the rod bearings and mains that I can access with the engine/transmission in place but do not want to pull it or the transmission if possible. I know that best practice would be to replace all mains but if there are such bolts and I choose not to pull the engine or transmission to access them I am making a big mistake by replacing only the front and center mains?

  Best--Michael Oritt

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