[Healeys] Front wheel bearing query

[Roger Grace]

To get the correct torque and to simultaneously line up the cotter pin I lap the face of the washer and/or nut on an oilstone.
2-3 attempts usually does it - and be patient.
rg


From: Bob Spidell 
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2018 8:33 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front wheel bearing query

Simon,

A few years ago, I had just begun a long road trip in my BJ8 with my son.  A hundred or so miles out of town the car developed a loud, grinding, 'squeal' at the right front.  Assuming wheel bearing damage, I got the right front wheel up on a jack and did the usual testing.  All seemed normal, so I got back on the road and the noise, of course, resumed.  A few hundred miles down the road the noise stopped.


We continued the trip--probably did 2-3K miles--and when I got home I tore into the hub.  Sure enough, that washer with the inner tab had spun and turned about 90deg in the direction of forward travel, then stopped (the noise was likely from the washer grinding against the inside of the hub).  So, yes, the tabs on these washers can shear and the washer can rotate.  I don't recall bearing damage, but I likely replaced both wheel bearings and associated parts on the car whilst I was in there.  If your other bearings were in good nick I think we know what caused the problem (it's possible your bad bearing ran dry as well).

I don't know if this was an original part, or it had been replaced by a previous owner, but I blame the 'usual suspect:'  sub-par aftermarket parts manufacture.  Also, I think the torque specification for the big castellated nut that holds everything together--IIRC, it's 70lb-ft--is a bit specious, as you have to line up a slot on the castellated nut with the hole in the axle threads for the cotter (and you'll have no idea what the actual, final torque is after you turn the nut to line up with the hold).  Since my experience, I always torque the snot out of that nut; i.e. I torque the nut to nominal or, nearly as tight as I can, then put a big breaker bar on it and continue torquing until at least the next slot (or the next, or the next ...).  That is a big nut and 'bolt,' it would take a gorilla to snap it off or cross-thread.   I've had no similar issue for 100K miles or so, though I just went through my hubs again and a couple of the bearings were worn, but had also been run dry.  This time, I sprung for (hopefully) better grease:

https://tinyurl.com/y9ljd69a

This stuff feels--for lack of a better word--'slipperier' than petroleum grease I've used.  I have high hopes for it.


Bob






On 1/28/2018 7:30 AM, simon.lachlan at homecall.co.uk wrote:

  Hi,

  Some wisdom from the gurus please.

  We’re looking at a MKII BT7 here. Disc brakes and wire wheels.

  Now, I’ve “done” bearings before and maybe did this one wrong last time……

  So, I took it all apart. No worries.

  The outer bearing was completely shot. Surprisingly so as there had been very little movement indeed when moving the wheel once off the ground. And no “crunchiness” to the rotation. Certainly no noise or panic inducing anything.

  I cleaned everything off in white spirit and, once all was pristine and dry, I gave everything a quick look. 

  See item 4, “washer”. The tab on mine had broken off in the groove on the hub. Now, I see that this washer is perhaps better called the “locating washer” when one is looking at the picture for the disc wheel setup. 

  But I don’t really see what the tab is good for……surely the washer can’t rotate once everything is tightened up, shims in situ etcetc? 

  Can the washer have been rotating? Surely not? And could the tab’s fracture have anything to do with the condition of my outer bearing?

  (The inner bearing seems fine).

  And, yes, I will get a new washer and I’m replacing both bearings.

  It’s just curiosity really.

  Thanks,

  Simon

   






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