From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Dec 1 06:30:21 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2019 08:30:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue In-Reply-To: References: <1403798857.3818950.1574818894734@mail.yahoo.com> <37f18e6d-d5ff-19c8-5347-13998e360a60@chello.nl> <431856941.6232927.1574892228529@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: "it is also a water dispersant" Hence the name: WD 40 On Thu, Nov 28, 2019, 4:32 AM Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > Sorry to disagree. It is a multipurpose fluid. Not an ideal lubricant or > penetrating oil but it will do for occasions like this. It is also a water > dispersant and cleaning agent a.o. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 27-11-2019 om 23:03 schreef Michael MacLean: > > Again, WD 40 is not a lubricant. It's purpose is to displace water. In > the past I have used it inside a distributor cap that got wet to get the > car running again. > Mike MacLean > > On Wednesday, November 27, 2019, 1:11:35 PM PST, Kees Oudesluijs > wrote: > > > You could always try to get some WD-40 in the socket to reduce the > friction to rotate the bulb. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > Op 27-11-2019 om 19:44 schreef Mike Sinclair: > > I have a similar problem with my dining room light fixture, which uses the > high-intensity bulbs. The only way to rotate them is with my thumbs. The > real problem is that the socket gets loose, and just rotates with the > bulb. I have taken most of them apart and re-tightened them, but hard to > get at, especially when standing on a short ladder. > > Mike > On 11/26/2019 5:41 PM, jim via Healeys wrote: > > Like this? > > On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:56:16 PM UTC, Michael Oritt > wrote: > > > I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen > taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on the > bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket. Unlike later cars > the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is straight with no > shoulder and does not project very far beyond the surface of the > receptacle. > > I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me? > > Best--Michael Oritt > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 1 23:16:45 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 1 Dec 2019 22:16:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs References: <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$.ref@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$@sbcglobal.net> If I change from triple HS4 to triple HS6 carbs can I just swap them out or do I have to change the linkage and other components? John Spaur '62 BT7 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Mon Dec 2 06:52:24 2019 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 13:52:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs In-Reply-To: <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$@sbcglobal.net> References: <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <167214587.1956621.1575294744560@mail.yahoo.com> You will need H6 intake manifolds or machine out your HS4 manifolds. I am not sure about the linkage. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: John Spaur To: healeys Sent: Mon, Dec 2, 2019 12:17 am Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs <!-- #yiv6571067118 _filtered #yiv6571067118 {font-family:"Cambria Math";panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv6571067118 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;} #yiv6571067118 #yiv6571067118 p.yiv6571067118MsoNormal, #yiv6571067118 li.yiv6571067118MsoNormal, #yiv6571067118 div.yiv6571067118MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} #yiv6571067118 a:link, #yiv6571067118 span.yiv6571067118MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv6571067118 a:visited, #yiv6571067118 span.yiv6571067118MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv6571067118 span.yiv6571067118EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv6571067118 .yiv6571067118MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered #yiv6571067118 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #yiv6571067118 div.yiv6571067118WordSection1 {} -->If I change from triple HS4 to triple HS6 carbs can I just swap them out or do I have to change the linkage and other components? ?John Spaur?62 BT7_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Dec 2 07:50:51 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 06:50:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs In-Reply-To: <167214587.1956621.1575294744560@mail.yahoo.com> References: <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$@sbcglobal.net> <167214587.1956621.1575294744560@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John, have to ask why you'd want to do this.? I'm not Edd China--or even Ant Anstead--but from all I've seen and heard just adding greater air flow capacity, without other mods--cam, headers, etc.--does more harm than good. I think I read somewhere that Geoff Healey thought BJ8s were 'over-carburetted' (maybe why headers supposedly add a few HP without other mods). Bob On 12/2/2019 5:52 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > You will need H6 intake manifolds or machine out your HS4 manifolds. I > am not sure about the linkage. > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Spaur > To: healeys > Sent: Mon, Dec 2, 2019 12:17 am > Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs > > If I change from triple HS4 to triple HS6 carbs can I just swap them > out or do I have to change the linkage and other components? > John Spaur > ?62 BT7 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Dec 2 08:34:39 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 10:34:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs In-Reply-To: References: <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$@sbcglobal.net> <167214587.1956621.1575294744560@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I can confirm that converting my first 6 cylinder race car, with a standard MkII engine, to HS6 carbs without any other mods improved my lap times at our home circuit by absolutely 0.00 seconds ... seriously disappointing ?? On Mon, Dec 2, 2019, 9:50 AM Bob Spidell, wrote: > John, have to ask why you'd want to do this. I'm not Edd China--or even > Ant Anstead--but from all I've seen and heard just adding greater air flow > capacity, without other mods--cam, headers, etc.--does more harm than > good. > > I think I read somewhere that Geoff Healey thought BJ8s were > 'over-carburetted' (maybe why headers supposedly add a few HP without other > mods). > > Bob > > On 12/2/2019 5:52 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > > You will need H6 intake manifolds or machine out your HS4 manifolds. I am > not sure about the linkage. > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Spaur > To: healeys > Sent: Mon, Dec 2, 2019 12:17 am > Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs > > If I change from triple HS4 to triple HS6 carbs can I just swap them out > or do I have to change the linkage and other components? > > John Spaur > ?62 BT7 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Dec 2 20:59:18 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 19:59:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs In-Reply-To: References: <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$@sbcglobal.net> <167214587.1956621.1575294744560@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001801d5a98e$09acfe00$1d06fa00$@sbcglobal.net> It?s not that I want too. Burlen S.U has not shown HS4?s as being available on their website for over a year now but the HS6?s are. I had emailed them several times but they don?t respond to emails. I finally got around to calling them and they said they had the parts and could build a set. So, I placed an order. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Monday, December 2, 2019 7:35 AM To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs I can confirm that converting my first 6 cylinder race car, with a standard MkII engine, to HS6 carbs without any other mods improved my lap times at our home circuit by absolutely 0.00 seconds ... seriously disappointing ?? On Mon, Dec 2, 2019, 9:50 AM Bob Spidell, > wrote: John, have to ask why you'd want to do this. I'm not Edd China--or even Ant Anstead--but from all I've seen and heard just adding greater air flow capacity, without other mods--cam, headers, etc.--does more harm than good. I think I read somewhere that Geoff Healey thought BJ8s were 'over-carburetted' (maybe why headers supposedly add a few HP without other mods). Bob On 12/2/2019 5:52 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: You will need H6 intake manifolds or machine out your HS4 manifolds. I am not sure about the linkage. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: John Spaur To: healeys Sent: Mon, Dec 2, 2019 12:17 am Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs If I change from triple HS4 to triple HS6 carbs can I just swap them out or do I have to change the linkage and other components? John Spaur ?62 BT7 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Mon Dec 2 20:59:18 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 19:59:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs In-Reply-To: References: <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$@sbcglobal.net> <167214587.1956621.1575294744560@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001801d5a98e$09acfe00$1d06fa00$@sbcglobal.net> It?s not that I want too. Burlen S.U has not shown HS4?s as being available on their website for over a year now but the HS6?s are. I had emailed them several times but they don?t respond to emails. I finally got around to calling them and they said they had the parts and could build a set. So, I placed an order. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Monday, December 2, 2019 7:35 AM To: Bob Spidell Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs I can confirm that converting my first 6 cylinder race car, with a standard MkII engine, to HS6 carbs without any other mods improved my lap times at our home circuit by absolutely 0.00 seconds ... seriously disappointing ?? On Mon, Dec 2, 2019, 9:50 AM Bob Spidell, > wrote: John, have to ask why you'd want to do this. I'm not Edd China--or even Ant Anstead--but from all I've seen and heard just adding greater air flow capacity, without other mods--cam, headers, etc.--does more harm than good. I think I read somewhere that Geoff Healey thought BJ8s were 'over-carburetted' (maybe why headers supposedly add a few HP without other mods). Bob On 12/2/2019 5:52 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: You will need H6 intake manifolds or machine out your HS4 manifolds. I am not sure about the linkage. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: John Spaur To: healeys Sent: Mon, Dec 2, 2019 12:17 am Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs If I change from triple HS4 to triple HS6 carbs can I just swap them out or do I have to change the linkage and other components? John Spaur ?62 BT7 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Dec 2 23:56:29 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 2 Dec 2019 22:56:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs In-Reply-To: <001801d5a98e$09acfe00$1d06fa00$@sbcglobal.net> References: <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$@sbcglobal.net> <167214587.1956621.1575294744560@mail.yahoo.com> <001801d5a98e$09acfe00$1d06fa00$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: My 100-6 has a MKI engine .060 over, Issky perfomance cam and it has a balanced engine. I bought a tri carb setup, traded it for a pair of HD8s and built a cable throttle system. Im very happy with it, other than hot idle issues. I get around 23 mpg on the road and its more responsive. But I hsve to say three carbs look great under the bonnet. As others have ssid, without hotting up the engine, no need to go bigger cfm. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Mon, Dec 2, 2019, 8:02 PM John Spaur wrote: > It?s not that I want too. Burlen S.U has not shown HS4?s as being > available on their website for over a year now but the HS6?s are. I had > emailed them several times but they don?t respond to emails. I finally got > around to calling them and they said they had the parts and could build a > set. So, I placed an order. > > > > John > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael > Salter > *Sent:* Monday, December 2, 2019 7:35 AM > *To:* Bob Spidell > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs > > > > I can confirm that converting my first 6 cylinder race car, with a > standard MkII engine, to HS6 carbs without any other mods improved my lap > times at our home circuit by absolutely 0.00 seconds ... seriously > disappointing ?? > > > > On Mon, Dec 2, 2019, 9:50 AM Bob Spidell, wrote: > > John, have to ask why you'd want to do this. I'm not Edd China--or even > Ant Anstead--but from all I've seen and heard just adding greater air flow > capacity, without other mods--cam, headers, etc.--does more harm than > good. > > I think I read somewhere that Geoff Healey thought BJ8s were > 'over-carburetted' (maybe why headers supposedly add a few HP without other > mods). > > Bob > > On 12/2/2019 5:52 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > > You will need H6 intake manifolds or machine out your HS4 manifolds. I am > not sure about the linkage. > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: John Spaur > To: healeys > Sent: Mon, Dec 2, 2019 12:17 am > Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs > > If I change from triple HS4 to triple HS6 carbs can I just swap them out > or do I have to change the linkage and other components? > > > > John Spaur > > ?62 BT7 > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Dec 3 00:33:18 2019 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2019 15:33:18 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs In-Reply-To: References: <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$.ref@sbcglobal.net> <000701d5a8d8$12f9a2d0$38ece870$@sbcglobal.net> <167214587.1956621.1575294744560@mail.yahoo.com> <001801d5a98e$09acfe00$1d06fa00$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: yes, to be honest even the three HD8s on the Jag E-type is overkill. smaller throats should actually give you better torque off the line. On Tue, Dec 3, 2019 at 2:56 PM i erbs wrote: > My 100-6 has a MKI engine .060 over, Issky perfomance cam and it has a > balanced engine. I bought a tri carb setup, traded it for a pair of HD8s > and built a cable throttle system. Im very happy with it, other than hot > idle issues. I get around 23 mpg on the road and its more responsive. But > I hsve to say three carbs look great under the bonnet. As others have ssid, > without hotting up the engine, no need to go bigger cfm. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > 1959 Austin Healey BN4 > 1967 MGB > > On Mon, Dec 2, 2019, 8:02 PM John Spaur wrote: > >> It?s not that I want too. Burlen S.U has not shown HS4?s as being >> available on their website for over a year now but the HS6?s are. I had >> emailed them several times but they don?t respond to emails. I finally got >> around to calling them and they said they had the parts and could build a >> set. So, I placed an order. >> >> >> >> John >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael >> Salter >> *Sent:* Monday, December 2, 2019 7:35 AM >> *To:* Bob Spidell >> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs >> >> >> >> I can confirm that converting my first 6 cylinder race car, with a >> standard MkII engine, to HS6 carbs without any other mods improved my lap >> times at our home circuit by absolutely 0.00 seconds ... seriously >> disappointing ?? >> >> >> >> On Mon, Dec 2, 2019, 9:50 AM Bob Spidell, wrote: >> >> John, have to ask why you'd want to do this. I'm not Edd China--or even >> Ant Anstead--but from all I've seen and heard just adding greater air flow >> capacity, without other mods--cam, headers, etc.--does more harm than >> good. >> >> I think I read somewhere that Geoff Healey thought BJ8s were >> 'over-carburetted' (maybe why headers supposedly add a few HP without other >> mods). >> >> Bob >> >> On 12/2/2019 5:52 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: >> >> You will need H6 intake manifolds or machine out your HS4 manifolds. I am >> not sure about the linkage. >> Gary Hodson >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: John Spaur >> To: healeys >> Sent: Mon, Dec 2, 2019 12:17 am >> Subject: [Healeys] Converting from HS4 to HS6 carbs >> >> If I change from triple HS4 to triple HS6 carbs can I just swap them out >> or do I have to change the linkage and other components? >> >> >> >> John Spaur >> >> ?62 BT7 >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Dec 3 18:16:12 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 3 Dec 2019 17:16:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey in Modesto, CA Message-ID: <41ef284d-ecb0-3ab9-6058-150b3e5069d1@comcast.net> Saw a nice, light brown 3000 with brown hood on Orangeburg Ave. in Modesto today; was going the other way or I would have pursued. Dunno if that's an original color combo, but looked very nice. Anyone on the List? Bob From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Thu Dec 5 15:33:31 2019 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2019 09:33:31 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers Message-ID: <007301d5abbc$07153790$153fa6b0$@tpg.com.au> Hello The bulk of the engines fitted to the Austin-Healey 100 BN1 and BN2 start with 1B, but some start with the H1B. Would anyone know? Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Fri Dec 6 07:06:49 2019 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Fri, 6 Dec 2019 14:06:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers In-Reply-To: <007301d5abbc$07153790$153fa6b0$@tpg.com.au> References: <007301d5abbc$07153790$153fa6b0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: Patrick I have never seen an engine number H1B. Possibly somebody was supplying reconditioning engines but genine BMC engines were marked SRB-19 and then a short number Best regards On Thu, 5 Dec 2019 at 22:33, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Hello > > > > The bulk of the engines fitted to the Austin-Healey 100 BN1 and BN2 start > with 1B, but some start with the H1B. > > > > Would anyone know? > > > > Thanks > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From wkollar at nycap.rr.com Sat Dec 7 08:04:38 2019 From: wkollar at nycap.rr.com (Bill Kollar) Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2019 10:04:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers In-Reply-To: References: <007301d5abbc$07153790$153fa6b0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: * * *The engine in my 54 BN1 is a 1B******M* *I have no idea if this is the original engine (It was about 10 years old when I bought it) but the car was registered here in NY using that engine number.** * * * ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On 12/6/2019 9:06 AM, John Harper wrote: > Patrick > > I have never seen an engine number H1B. Possibly somebody was > supplying reconditioning engines but genine BMC engines were marked > SRB-19 and then a short number > > Best regards > > On Thu, 5 Dec 2019 at 22:33, Patrick & Caroline Quinn > > wrote: > > Hello > > The bulk of the engines fitted to the Austin-Healey 100 BN1 and > BN2 start with 1B, but some start with the H1B. > > Would anyone know? > > Thanks > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > > > -- > Best wishes > > John Harper > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wkollar at nycap.rr.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sat Dec 7 14:02:02 2019 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2019 08:02:02 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers In-Reply-To: References: <007301d5abbc$07153790$153fa6b0$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <001f01d5ad41$9420e180$bc62a480$@tpg.com.au> Thank you Bill It remains a mystery. I have 623 BN1s and BN2s in Australia on my register and of these 71 have engine numbers starting with H1B. There doesn?t appear to be any pattern and they are spread over BN1 and BN2s. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia (Where the bush is still burning) From: Bill Kollar [mailto:wkollar at nycap.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, 8 December 2019 2:05 AM To: John Harper; Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers The engine in my 54 BN1 is a 1B******M I have no idea if this is the original engine (It was about 10 years old when I bought it) but the car was registered here in NY using that engine number. _____ On 12/6/2019 9:06 AM, John Harper wrote: Patrick I have never seen an engine number H1B. Possibly somebody was supplying reconditioning engines but genine BMC engines were marked SRB-19 and then a short number Best regards On Thu, 5 Dec 2019 at 22:33, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Hello The bulk of the engines fitted to the Austin-Healey 100 BN1 and BN2 start with 1B, but some start with the H1B. Would anyone know? Thanks Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wkollar at nycap.rr.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Dec 7 14:38:42 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2019 16:38:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers In-Reply-To: <001f01d5ad41$9420e180$bc62a480$@tpg.com.au> References: <007301d5abbc$07153790$153fa6b0$@tpg.com.au> <001f01d5ad41$9420e180$bc62a480$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: That's really weird Pat. As I'm sure you know it was common practice to put an H in the engine number to indicate "High compression" but I've never encountered that with the 100. Is there any pattern with respect to "Sold new in AUS"? M On Sat, Dec 7, 2019, 4:02 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, wrote: > Thank you Bill > > > > It remains a mystery. I have 623 BN1s and BN2s in Australia on my register > and of these 71 have engine numbers starting with H1B. > > > > There doesn?t appear to be any pattern and they are spread over BN1 and > BN2s. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > (Where the bush is still burning) > > > > > > > > *From:* Bill Kollar [mailto:wkollar at nycap.rr.com] > *Sent:* Sunday, 8 December 2019 2:05 AM > *To:* John Harper; Patrick & Caroline Quinn > *Cc:* Forum > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers > > > > > > *The engine in my 54 BN1 is a 1B******M* > > *I have no idea if this is the original engine (It was about 10 years old > when I bought it) but the car was registered here in NY using that engine > number.* > > > ------------------------------ > > > > On 12/6/2019 9:06 AM, John Harper wrote: > > Patrick > > > > I have never seen an engine number H1B. Possibly somebody was supplying > reconditioning engines but genine BMC engines were marked SRB-19 and then a > short number > > > > Best regards > > > > On Thu, 5 Dec 2019 at 22:33, Patrick & Caroline Quinn > wrote: > > Hello > > > > The bulk of the engines fitted to the Austin-Healey 100 BN1 and BN2 start > with 1B, but some start with the H1B. > > > > Would anyone know? > > > > Thanks > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > > > > -- > > Best wishes > > > > John Harper > > > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wkollar at nycap.rr.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Sat Dec 7 14:45:03 2019 From: healey100m at me.com (Randall Hicks) Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2019 16:45:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7D7F03C8-2BC1-4106-8CE1-73E78482D83D@me.com> I was wondering the same thing as Michael. I have over 3500 BN1 & BN2?s in the AHCA 100 Registry and have no engine numbers starting with H1B. This includes many cars in Australia. Does anyone have a photo of an engine plate stamped wit H1Bxxxxxx? Randy Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 7, 2019, at 4:38 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > > ? > That's really weird Pat. > As I'm sure you know it was common practice to put an H in the engine number to indicate "High compression" but I've never encountered that with the 100. > Is there any pattern with respect to "Sold new in AUS"? > > M > >> On Sat, Dec 7, 2019, 4:02 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, wrote: >> Thank you Bill >> >> >> >> It remains a mystery. I have 623 BN1s and BN2s in Australia on my register and of these 71 have engine numbers starting with H1B. >> >> >> >> There doesn?t appear to be any pattern and they are spread over BN1 and BN2s. >> >> >> >> Hoo Roo >> >> >> >> Patrick Quinn >> >> Blue Mountains, Australia >> >> (Where the bush is still burning) >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> From: Bill Kollar [mailto:wkollar at nycap.rr.com] >> Sent: Sunday, 8 December 2019 2:05 AM >> To: John Harper; Patrick & Caroline Quinn >> Cc: Forum >> Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers >> >> >> >> >> >> The engine in my 54 BN1 is a 1B******M >> >> I have no idea if this is the original engine (It was about 10 years old when I bought it) but the car was registered here in NY using that engine number. >> >> >> >> >> >> On 12/6/2019 9:06 AM, John Harper wrote: >> >> Patrick >> >> >> >> I have never seen an engine number H1B. Possibly somebody was supplying reconditioning engines but genine BMC engines were marked SRB-19 and then a short number >> >> >> >> Best regards >> >> >> >> On Thu, 5 Dec 2019 at 22:33, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: >> >> Hello >> >> >> >> The bulk of the engines fitted to the Austin-Healey 100 BN1 and BN2 start with 1B, but some start with the H1B. >> >> >> >> Would anyone know? >> >> >> >> Thanks >> >> >> >> Patrick Quinn >> >> Blue Mountains, Australia >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com >> >> >> >> >> >> -- >> >> Best wishes >> >> >> >> John Harper >> >> >> >> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wkollar at nycap.rr.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey100m at me.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Dec 7 14:48:44 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2019 16:48:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers In-Reply-To: <001f01d5ad41$9420e180$bc62a480$@tpg.com.au> References: <007301d5abbc$07153790$153fa6b0$@tpg.com.au> <001f01d5ad41$9420e180$bc62a480$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: Could it be that they were designated for the antipodes and numbered thusly? Otherwise I would ascribe it to the Coriolis effect. Best--Michael Oritt On Sat, Dec 7, 2019 at 4:02 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: > Thank you Bill > > > > It remains a mystery. I have 623 BN1s and BN2s in Australia on my register > and of these 71 have engine numbers starting with H1B. > > > > There doesn?t appear to be any pattern and they are spread over BN1 and > BN2s. > > > > Hoo Roo > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > (Where the bush is still burning) > > > > > > > > *From:* Bill Kollar [mailto:wkollar at nycap.rr.com] > *Sent:* Sunday, 8 December 2019 2:05 AM > *To:* John Harper; Patrick & Caroline Quinn > *Cc:* Forum > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers > > > > > > *The engine in my 54 BN1 is a 1B******M* > > *I have no idea if this is the original engine (It was about 10 years old > when I bought it) but the car was registered here in NY using that engine > number.* > > > ------------------------------ > > > > On 12/6/2019 9:06 AM, John Harper wrote: > > Patrick > > > > I have never seen an engine number H1B. Possibly somebody was supplying > reconditioning engines but genine BMC engines were marked SRB-19 and then a > short number > > > > Best regards > > > > On Thu, 5 Dec 2019 at 22:33, Patrick & Caroline Quinn > wrote: > > Hello > > > > The bulk of the engines fitted to the Austin-Healey 100 BN1 and BN2 start > with 1B, but some start with the H1B. > > > > Would anyone know? > > > > Thanks > > > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > > > > -- > > Best wishes > > > > John Harper > > > > AHC UK 100 Register Secretary > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wkollar at nycap.rr.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Dec 7 15:24:14 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2019 14:24:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers In-Reply-To: References: <007301d5abbc$07153790$153fa6b0$@tpg.com.au> <001f01d5ad41$9420e180$bc62a480$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: <879862fe-c13c-909b-2eb3-42c818e88435@comcast.net> Maybe it came from India? Come on, you were all thinking it ;) On 12/7/2019 1:48 PM, Michael Oritt wrote: > Could it be?that?they were designated for the antipodes and numbered > thusly? > Otherwise I would ascribe it to the Coriolis effect. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Sat, Dec 7, 2019 at 4:02 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn > > wrote: > > Thank you Bill > > It remains a mystery. I have 623 BN1s and BN2s in Australia on my > register and of these 71 have engine numbers starting with H1B. > > There doesn?t appear to be any pattern and they are spread over > BN1 and BN2s. > > Hoo Roo > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > (Where the bush is still burning) > > *From:*Bill Kollar [mailto:wkollar at nycap.rr.com > ] > *Sent:* Sunday, 8 December 2019 2:05 AM > *To:* John Harper; Patrick & Caroline Quinn > *Cc:* Forum > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers > > *The engine in my 54 BN1 is a 1B******M* > > *I have no idea if this is the original engine (It was about 10 > years old when I bought it) but the car was registered here in NY > using that engine number.* > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > On 12/6/2019 9:06 AM, John Harper wrote: > > Patrick > > I have never seen an engine number H1B. Possibly somebody was > supplying reconditioning engines but genine BMC engines were > marked SRB-19 and then a short number > > Best regards > > On Thu, 5 Dec 2019 at 22:33, Patrick & Caroline Quinn > > wrote: > > Hello > > The bulk of the engines fitted to the Austin-Healey 100 > BN1 and BN2 start with 1B, but some start with the H1B. > > Would anyone know? > > Thanks > > Patrick Quinn > > Blue Mountains, Australia > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Dec 7 16:41:50 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2019 18:41:50 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers In-Reply-To: References: <007301d5abbc$07153790$153fa6b0$@tpg.com.au> <001f01d5ad41$9420e180$bc62a480$@tpg.com.au> Message-ID: Michael Was looking at an on-line site regarding Austin Motor Co numbering/codes for engines and ?H? was used in engine numbers but only to designate High compression engines. L was used for low compression. It was not clear where in the engine number that H or L was placed. Never saw one. In that data base only three 100?s showed an H starting the engine number 224696, 229255 and 229217. If we could find the owners of these three cars they may be able to explain the reason for the ?H?. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter Sent: Saturday, December 7, 2019 4:38 PM To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers That's really weird Pat. As I'm sure?you know it was common practice to put an H in the engine number to indicate "High compression" but I've never encountered?that with the 100. Is there any pattern with respect to "Sold new in AUS"? M On Sat, Dec 7, 2019, 4:02 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, wrote: Thank you Bill ? It remains a mystery. I have 623 BN1s and BN2s in Australia on my register and of these 71 have engine numbers starting with H1B. ? There doesn?t appear to be any pattern and they are spread over BN1 and BN2s. ? Hoo Roo ? Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia (Where the bush is still burning) ? ? ? From: Bill Kollar [mailto:wkollar at nycap.rr.com] Sent: Sunday, 8 December 2019 2:05 AM To: John Harper; Patrick & Caroline Quinn Cc: Forum Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers ? ? The engine in my 54 BN1 is a 1B******M I have no idea if this is the original engine (It was about 10 years old when I bought it) but the car was registered here in NY using that engine number. ? ? On 12/6/2019 9:06 AM, John Harper wrote: Patrick ? I have never seen an engine number H1B. Possibly somebody was supplying reconditioning engines but genine BMC engines were marked SRB-19 and then a short number ? Best regards ? On Thu, 5 Dec 2019 at 22:33, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote: Hello ? The bulk of the engines fitted to the Austin-Healey 100 BN1 and BN2 start with 1B, but some start with the H1B. ? Would anyone know? ? Thanks ? Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com ? -- Best wishes ? John Harper ? AHC UK 100 Register Secretary _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 ? Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive ? Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys ? Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/wkollar at nycap.rr.com ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 82D33D4595EF4388A255A78D59E89935.png Type: image/png Size: 144 bytes Desc: not available URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Sat Dec 7 18:38:17 2019 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Sat, 7 Dec 2019 20:38:17 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers In-Reply-To: <20191207234225.425F2A0956@autox.team.net> References: <007301d5abbc$07153790$153fa6b0$@tpg.com.au> <001f01d5ad41$9420e180$bc62a480$@tpg.com.au> <20191207234225.425F2A0956@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <01ad01d5ad68$2c133d00$8439b700$@rr.com> For BJ7 and BJ8 engines, the ?H? for high compression is here: 29K/RU/H11327. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys Sent: Saturday, December 7, 2019 6:42 PM To: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Engine Numbers Michael Was looking at an on-line site regarding Austin Motor Co numbering/codes for engines and ?H? was used in engine numbers but only to designate High compression engines. L was used for low compression. It was not clear where in the engine number that H or L was placed. Never saw one. In that data base only three 100?s showed an H starting the engine number 224696, 229255 and 229217. If we could find the owners of these three cars they may be able to explain the reason for the ?H?. Perry -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Dec 8 14:04:40 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2019 21:04:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash References: <418490089.4663900.1575839080932.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <418490089.4663900.1575839080932@mail.yahoo.com> Can someone please tell me what the hole is above and to the left of the overdrive switch is for.? In researching pictures on the internet I see some dash panels have the hole and others do not.? Keep in mind I am putting an early two piece dash in my BN2 just because that is what I have that was given to me by the late Tom Rocke.? This is the reason the overdrive switch seems to be in the wrong location for a BN2.? The configuration of the early two piece dash has the ignition switch and the overdrive switch locations swapped.? I have seen some pictures of the hole to the right of the overdrive switch with a screw in it, but I have no idea what it bolts to in the back.? See picture of recently assembled dash after new paint job. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: hole.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 175827 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rick at ewilkins.com Sun Dec 8 15:04:42 2019 From: rick at ewilkins.com (rick at ewilkins.com) Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2019 14:04:42 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash In-Reply-To: <418490089.4663900.1575839080932@mail.yahoo.com> References: <418490089.4663900.1575839080932.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <418490089.4663900.1575839080932@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1C729C7C-9F96-4F56-901A-06C367C69D1C@ewilkins.com> That?s where the screw holds the dash to the firewall bracket. Sent from my iPhone, so autocorrects may have inserted some odd words. > On Dec 8, 2019, at 1:04 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Can someone please tell me what the hole is above and to the left of the overdrive switch is for. In researching pictures on the internet I see some dash panels have the hole and others do not. Keep in mind I am putting an early two piece dash in my BN2 just because that is what I have that was given to me by the late Tom Rocke. This is the reason the overdrive switch seems to be in the wrong location for a BN2. The configuration of the early two piece dash has the ignition switch and the overdrive switch locations swapped. I have seen some pictures of the hole to the right of the overdrive switch with a screw in it, but I have no idea what it bolts to in the back. See picture of recently assembled dash after new paint job. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rick at ewilkins.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sun Dec 8 15:10:08 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2019 23:10:08 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash In-Reply-To: <418490089.4663900.1575839080932@mail.yahoo.com> References: <418490089.4663900.1575839080932.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <418490089.4663900.1575839080932@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3570d858-0752-152b-4f9c-63e59d606d19@chello.nl> Op 8-12-2019 om 22:04 schreef Michael MacLean: > Can someone please tell me what the hole is above and to the left of > the overdrive switch is for.? In researching pictures on the internet > I see some dash panels have the hole and others do not.? Keep in mind > I am putting an early two piece dash in my BN2 just because that is > what I have that was given to me by the late Tom Rocke. This is the > reason the overdrive switch seems to be in the wrong location for a > BN2.? The configuration of the early two piece dash has the ignition > switch and the overdrive switch locations swapped.? I have seen some > pictures of the hole to the right of the overdrive switch with a screw > in it, but I have no idea what it bolts to in the back.? See picture > of recently assembled dash after new paint job. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sun Dec 8 16:26:48 2019 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2019 23:26:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash In-Reply-To: <3570d858-0752-152b-4f9c-63e59d606d19@chello.nl> References: <418490089.4663900.1575839080932.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <418490089.4663900.1575839080932@mail.yahoo.com>, <3570d858-0752-152b-4f9c-63e59d606d19@chello.nl> Message-ID: There is a longitudinal support spot welded to the steel scuttle at that point behind the dash. The exact hardware to attach the dash is somewhat of a mystery, at least to me, but it must include a distance piece to avoid denting the dash and some washers because the hole in the support is too large for the nut on the screw. I used a #10 phillips oval headed machine screw with a stainless steel trim washer and sundry hardware to tighten the assembly and avoid damage to the dash surface. I would be interested to know how it was originally done. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Sunday, December 8, 2019 10:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash Op 8-12-2019 om 22:04 schreef Michael MacLean: Can someone please tell me what the hole is above and to the left of the overdrive switch is for. In researching pictures on the internet I see some dash panels have the hole and others do not. Keep in mind I am putting an early two piece dash in my BN2 just because that is what I have that was given to me by the late Tom Rocke. This is the reason the overdrive switch seems to be in the wrong location for a BN2. The configuration of the early two piece dash has the ignition switch and the overdrive switch locations swapped. I have seen some pictures of the hole to the right of the overdrive switch with a screw in it, but I have no idea what it bolts to in the back. See picture of recently assembled dash after new paint job. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahmg at aol.com Sun Dec 8 19:10:18 2019 From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming) Date: Sun, 8 Dec 2019 21:10:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey Factory Optional Equipment Message-ID: In reviewing the list of available optional equipment for the 100, under the Coachwork section the first item it list ?Custom Fitted Luggage? for 20 pounds. Obviously this is a rare item, likely not to exist and survive the test of time, but curious if anyone on the list has ever seen this fitted luggage or if anyone has a picture and or literature that may show this luggage for a 100/4. Feel free to contact me offlist if you prefer. Ken Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Mon Dec 9 02:50:47 2019 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 09:50:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash In-Reply-To: References: <418490089.4663900.1575839080932.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <418490089.4663900.1575839080932@mail.yahoo.com> <3570d858-0752-152b-4f9c-63e59d606d19@chello.nl> Message-ID: Bill The early 100 had a welded in bracket that just was turned down with a large hole where a screw, large washer and nut supported the centre of the dash. The later BN1s and BN2s had a separate bracket that supported the centre of the dash with the same central fixings but the top of the bracket fixed to the same holes as the rear view mirror. The bracket was shaped to allow spire nuts to be fitted. The mirror then fixed down using course self tap screws that fitted into the spire nuts below All the best On Sun, 8 Dec 2019 at 23:26, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > There is a longitudinal support spot welded to the steel scuttle at that > point behind the dash. The exact hardware to attach the dash is somewhat of > a mystery, at least to me, but it must include a distance piece to avoid > denting the dash and some washers because the hole in the support is too > large for the nut on the screw. I used a #10 phillips oval headed machine > screw with a stainless steel trim washer and sundry hardware to tighten the > assembly and avoid damage to the dash surface. I would be interested to > know how it was originally done. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Kees > Oudesluijs > *Sent:* Sunday, December 8, 2019 10:10 PM > *To:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash > > > > Op 8-12-2019 om 22:04 schreef Michael MacLean: > > Can someone please tell me what the hole is above and to the left of the > overdrive switch is for. In researching pictures on the internet I see > some dash panels have the hole and others do not. Keep in mind I am > putting an early two piece dash in my BN2 just because that is what I have > that was given to me by the late Tom Rocke. This is the reason the > overdrive switch seems to be in the wrong location for a BN2. The > configuration of the early two piece dash has the ignition switch and the > overdrive switch locations swapped. I have seen some pictures of the hole > to the right of the overdrive switch with a screw in it, but I have no idea > what it bolts to in the back. See picture of recently assembled dash after > new paint job. > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Dec 9 10:47:55 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 17:47:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signal Bulbholder References: <1268361757.10923252.1575913675351.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1268361757.10923252.1575913675351@mail.yahoo.com> In retrofitting an early two piece dash to my BN2 I have run into a snag with the turn signal indicator light assembly.? The light assembly I bought from one of the usual suspects is a two piece affair.? It has a very nice external threaded chrome bezel and an internal threaded green tube with a sort of lens coming up through the center and protruding into the bezel.? This would be fine if it was mounted to a one piece dash, but as you can see in the picture the mounting hole is not centered in relation to the sheet metal above and behind the instrument panel.? Easy enough, just grind away until it fits.? This brings up another question.? If I didn't want to bugger up an original early two piece dash, what did the early light bulbholder fitting that would fit here look like?Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: bulbholder.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 141966 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Dec 9 11:05:46 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 10:05:46 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signal Bulbholder In-Reply-To: <1268361757.10923252.1575913675351@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1268361757.10923252.1575913675351.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1268361757.10923252.1575913675351@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The holder you got would fit my late BN4 nicely. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Mon, Dec 9, 2019, 9:49 AM Michael MacLean wrote: > In retrofitting an early two piece dash to my BN2 I have run into a snag > with the turn signal indicator light assembly. The light assembly I bought > from one of the usual suspects is a two piece affair. It has a very nice > external threaded chrome bezel and an internal threaded green tube with a > sort of lens coming up through the center and protruding into the bezel. > This would be fine if it was mounted to a one piece dash, but as you can > see in the picture the mounting hole is not centered in relation to the > sheet metal above and behind the instrument panel. Easy enough, just grind > away until it fits. This brings up another question. If I didn't want to > bugger up an original early two piece dash, what did the early light > bulbholder fitting that would fit here look like? > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Dec 9 11:08:38 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 18:08:38 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signal Bulbholder In-Reply-To: References: <1268361757.10923252.1575913675351.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1268361757.10923252.1575913675351@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1772224007.10926345.1575914918184@mail.yahoo.com> My point exactly.M On Monday, December 9, 2019, 10:06:00 AM PST, i erbs wrote: The holder you got would fit my late BN4 nicely. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Mon, Dec 9, 2019, 9:49 AM Michael MacLean wrote: In retrofitting an early two piece dash to my BN2 I have run into a snag with the turn signal indicator light assembly.? The light assembly I bought from one of the usual suspects is a two piece affair.? It has a very nice external threaded chrome bezel and an internal threaded green tube with a sort of lens coming up through the center and protruding into the bezel.? This would be fine if it was mounted to a one piece dash, but as you can see in the picture the mounting hole is not centered in relation to the sheet metal above and behind the instrument panel.? Easy enough, just grind away until it fits.? This brings up another question.? If I didn't want to bugger up an original early two piece dash, what did the early light bulbholder fitting that would fit here look like?Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Mon Dec 9 12:41:36 2019 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 11:41:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signal Bulbholder In-Reply-To: References: <1268361757.10923252.1575913675351.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1268361757.10923252.1575913675351@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2a7e01d5aec8$acd99310$068cb930$@roadrunner.com> That?s what?s in my BN7. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Monday, December 09, 2019 10:06 AM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signal Bulbholder The holder you got would fit my late BN4 nicely. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Mon, Dec 9, 2019, 9:49 AM Michael MacLean > wrote: In retrofitting an early two piece dash to my BN2 I have run into a snag with the turn signal indicator light assembly. The light assembly I bought from one of the usual suspects is a two piece affair. It has a very nice external threaded chrome bezel and an internal threaded green tube with a sort of lens coming up through the center and protruding into the bezel. This would be fine if it was mounted to a one piece dash, but as you can see in the picture the mounting hole is not centered in relation to the sheet metal above and behind the instrument panel. Easy enough, just grind away until it fits. This brings up another question. If I didn't want to bugger up an original early two piece dash, what did the early light bulbholder fitting that would fit here look like? Mike MacLean _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Dec 9 14:56:21 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 16:56:21 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Turn Signal Bulbholder In-Reply-To: <1268361757.10923252.1575913675351@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1268361757.10923252.1575913675351.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1268361757.10923252.1575913675351@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Michael, I encountered the same issue with the early dash in B.#174. After a bit of adjustment I managed to get the 2 holes essentially concentric and just squeeze the light body into the gap. Not easy once the dash is installed I might mention!! M On Mon, Dec 9, 2019 at 12:48 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > In retrofitting an early two piece dash to my BN2 I have run into a snag > with the turn signal indicator light assembly. The light assembly I bought > from one of the usual suspects is a two piece affair. It has a very nice > external threaded chrome bezel and an internal threaded green tube with a > sort of lens coming up through the center and protruding into the bezel. > This would be fine if it was mounted to a one piece dash, but as you can > see in the picture the mounting hole is not centered in relation to the > sheet metal above and behind the instrument panel. Easy enough, just grind > away until it fits. This brings up another question. If I didn't want to > bugger up an original early two piece dash, what did the early light > bulbholder fitting that would fit here look like? > Mike MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Mon Dec 9 16:43:41 2019 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 18:43:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site Message-ID: <87A14DE4-7ABA-4089-8379-A865C9C08D77@mac.com> Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. Lin https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bradh904 at gmail.com Mon Dec 9 16:56:47 2019 From: bradh904 at gmail.com (Brad Holden) Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 18:56:47 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 Message-ID: Hi Guys, I wrote earlier today but my email came back saying it was under review because I am not a member, but I IS a member so trying again. Anyway, my rear seat assembly is back from the restorer, problem is for the life of me I cannot get the rear backrest (squab) to fit between the inner wheel well frames, it just seems to be too wide, I am looking at the sledge hammer but know this is the wrong approach, any thoughts and many thanks. Brad Holden -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey.nut at gmail.com Mon Dec 9 20:21:26 2019 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:21:26 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Brad - What part of the squab doesn't fit? Is it the wood frame at the bottom (the one with the three bolt holes / carriage nuts)? Or is it the wood frame at the side. Can you share a picture of the squab frame? Maybe if we see that we can diagnose it for you. Best, Alan On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 7:57 AM Brad Holden wrote: > Hi Guys, I wrote earlier today but my email came back saying it was under > review because I am not a member, but I IS a member so trying again. > Anyway, my rear seat assembly is back from the restorer, problem is for the > life of me I cannot get the rear backrest (squab) to fit between the inner > wheel well frames, it just seems to be too wide, I am looking at the sledge > hammer but know this is the wrong approach, any thoughts and many thanks. > Brad Holden > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Dec 10 06:05:42 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 13:05:42 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Message-ID: Listers, Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for Thanks, Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Dec 10 07:28:48 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 09:28:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <5deeece7.1c69fb81.3862e.7ba2SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Something is seriously amiss. I do not have a back rest for a BJ8 in the garage at present so I can?t send the measurement between the wheel wells. Perhaps someone else can send that info and you can compare measurements. Perry From: Brad Holden It appears to be at least an inch to long, the wheel wells have of course been carpeted and the seat back butts up against the two side panels if I am doing this correctly -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Dec 10 07:28:48 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 09:28:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <5deeece7.1c69fb81.3862e.7ba2SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> Message-ID: Something is seriously amiss. I do not have a back rest for a BJ8 in the garage at present so I can?t send the measurement between the wheel wells. Perhaps someone else can send that info and you can compare measurements. Perry From: Brad Holden It appears to be at least an inch to long, the wheel wells have of course been carpeted and the seat back butts up against the two side panels if I am doing this correctly -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Tue Dec 10 08:25:54 2019 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 15:25:54 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site In-Reply-To: <87A14DE4-7ABA-4089-8379-A865C9C08D77@mac.com> References: <87A14DE4-7ABA-4089-8379-A865C9C08D77@mac.com> Message-ID: <001101d5af6e$1df97a10$59ec6e30$@alexarevel.plus.com> Thanks for this. Seems like the only source of advice that he did not tap is this list? (Which list being something that I?ve always found invaluable). Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Linwood Rose via Healeys Sent: 09 December 2019 23:44 To: healeylist Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. Lin https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Dec 10 09:01:08 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 16:01:08 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Brad, The folding part of the backrest is 36 ?? and the frame that it rests against is 38?. See photo. Jean [cid:image002.jpg at 01D5AF40.C028E150] [cid:image006.jpg at 01D5AF40.C028E150] Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Brad Holden Sent: December 10, 2019 7:55 AM To: Jean Caron Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 Hi Jean, the total width including the two side pieces is 39 and a half inches On Mon, Dec 9, 2019 at 9:30 PM Jean Caron > wrote: Brad, How wide is it, I have a BJ8 here right now and can compare how wide it is compare to this one that is fittd and working. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Brad Holden Sent: December 9, 2019 5:57 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 Hi Guys, I wrote earlier today but my email came back saying it was under review because I am not a member, but I IS a member so trying again. Anyway, my rear seat assembly is back from the restorer, problem is for the life of me I cannot get the rear backrest (squab) to fit between the inner wheel well frames, it just seems to be too wide, I am looking at the sledge hammer but know this is the wrong approach, any thoughts and many thanks. Brad Holden -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: E2F8B72913C14BE78B33E70383612BDE.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 106108 bytes Desc: E2F8B72913C14BE78B33E70383612BDE.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 91C5C00BC321418D87C8FBCE2BCA0260.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 66568 bytes Desc: 91C5C00BC321418D87C8FBCE2BCA0260.jpg URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Dec 10 09:01:33 2019 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:01:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site In-Reply-To: <001101d5af6e$1df97a10$59ec6e30$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <87A14DE4-7ABA-4089-8379-A865C9C08D77@mac.com> <001101d5af6e$1df97a10$59ec6e30$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <000501d5af73$18aeb3e0$4a0c1ba0$@verizon.net> I?ll put a link up on my site later today or tomorrow John Sims www.healey6.com Matawan, NJ From: Healeys On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 10:26 AM To: 'Linwood Rose' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site Thanks for this. Seems like the only source of advice that he did not tap is this list? (Which list being something that I?ve always found invaluable). Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Linwood Rose via Healeys Sent: 09 December 2019 23:44 To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. Lin https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahbn6 at verizon.net Tue Dec 10 09:01:33 2019 From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:01:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site In-Reply-To: <001101d5af6e$1df97a10$59ec6e30$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <87A14DE4-7ABA-4089-8379-A865C9C08D77@mac.com> <001101d5af6e$1df97a10$59ec6e30$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <000501d5af73$18aeb3e0$4a0c1ba0$@verizon.net> I?ll put a link up on my site later today or tomorrow John Sims www.healey6.com Matawan, NJ From: Healeys On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 10:26 AM To: 'Linwood Rose' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site Thanks for this. Seems like the only source of advice that he did not tap is this list? (Which list being something that I?ve always found invaluable). Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Linwood Rose via Healeys Sent: 09 December 2019 23:44 To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. Lin https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Dec 10 09:19:08 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:19:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <5deeece7.1c69fb81.3862e.7ba2SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <20191210143114.62BB2A0AA6@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Michael The story goes like this: My lovely wife says: I, (meaning her) has to die before you (meaning me) because I?m not going to clean up that ?mess? (read here Healey lovers) ?stash of Healey parts!? Confused yet? I suspect that there will not be a crypt for the parts or me. Probably just scatter my ashes over the 150+ brake shoes, 50 brake drums and 25,000 pounds of other Healey related dust collectors, lock the garage doors and wait for Mike and Frank (American Pickers) to show up. The stuff should be worth at least a $100 so she will get $50 and they clean up the mess! ? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 10:33 AM To: Perry Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 So Perry, when you die, if you actually do die, are they going to make a crypt of your Healey parts for you?? :-) M ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Dec 10 09:19:08 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:19:08 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 In-Reply-To: References: <5deeece7.1c69fb81.3862e.7ba2SMTPIN_ADDED_MISSING@mx.google.com> <20191210143114.62BB2A0AA6@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Michael The story goes like this: My lovely wife says: I, (meaning her) has to die before you (meaning me) because I?m not going to clean up that ?mess? (read here Healey lovers) ?stash of Healey parts!? Confused yet? I suspect that there will not be a crypt for the parts or me. Probably just scatter my ashes over the 150+ brake shoes, 50 brake drums and 25,000 pounds of other Healey related dust collectors, lock the garage doors and wait for Mike and Frank (American Pickers) to show up. The stuff should be worth at least a $100 so she will get $50 and they clean up the mess! ? Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 10:33 AM To: Perry Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 So Perry, when you die, if you actually do die, are they going to make a crypt of your Healey parts for you?? :-) M ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 10 09:34:09 2019 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 08:34:09 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Jean Caron Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM To: AH Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Listers, Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for Thanks, Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52589 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Dec 10 10:01:18 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 12:01:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - In-Reply-To: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> References: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: Hi David, Many thanks for sending Jean that picture however I don't think that is the correct lid stay anchor for either the car he is restoring or B.#741. In the interests of ensuring that others do not accept that picture without further research here is what I have found. Some years ago I was lucky enough to study and photograph B.#1267 and the boot lid stay anchor, on the lid, was like this. [image: image.png] You can just make out the body number stamped on the anchor of this very original 5000 mile car. This car has never been repainted and is an unusual shade of gunmetal grey. I'm very confident that this type of stay anchor was used on all 100's prior to body number 1267. As I'm sure you are aware the sequence of assembly of the cars was not strictly in the correct order of body number but I don't believe that this confusion applies to body components to the same degree that it does to mechanical ones. I should also mention that as far as I have been able to determine cars fitted with this version of the boot lid had the foam rubber seal installed into the shroud gutter as can be seen in this photo also of B.#1267. [image: image.png] It is interesting to note that the seal did not extend across the lower edge of the shroud opening. Very Best Wishes for a Happy Christmas, Michael Salter Technical Chairman Concours Guidelines Committee. On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 11:34 AM David Nock BCS wrote: > BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 > > > [image: IMG_0095] > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > *From:* Jean Caron > *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM > *To:* AH Mail List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - > > > Listers, > > Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the > bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and > only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a > photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three > countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to > Michael, there were three different models of these. > > Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the > bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. > This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have > the bracket I am looking for > > Thanks, > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 1742876 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 2504843 bytes Desc: not available URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Tue Dec 10 10:05:07 2019 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 17:05:07 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Message-ID: Knew I had some photos somewhere and found them. As you can clearly see, this is from #598 and very different than the photo David supplied. My support bracket was screwed onto the boot lid from the side. Very interesting. Hope this helps! On December 10, 2019 at 5:06 AM, Jean Caron wrote: Listers, Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for Thanks, ? Jean ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2591.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 861771 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2589.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 922751 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_2588.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 983909 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Dec 10 10:35:20 2019 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 09:35:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - In-Reply-To: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> References: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have had an aluminum bonnet. Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS wrote: > BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 > > > [image: IMG_0095] > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > *From:* Jean Caron > *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM > *To:* AH Mail List > *Subject:* [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - > > > Listers, > > Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the > bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and > only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a > photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three > countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to > Michael, there were three different models of these. > > Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the > bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. > This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have > the bracket I am looking for > > Thanks, > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52589 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: April 06 pics 031.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 93696 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: April 06 pics 030.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 92160 bytes Desc: not available URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Dec 10 10:38:58 2019 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 09:38:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - In-Reply-To: References: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: Here are some more bracket only photos. On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 9:35 AM Curtis Arndt wrote: > That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have > had an aluminum bonnet. > > Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS > wrote: > >> BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 >> >> >> [image: IMG_0095] >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> 209-948-8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> >> *From:* Jean Caron >> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM >> *To:* AH Mail List >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - >> >> >> Listers, >> >> Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the >> bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and >> only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a >> photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three >> countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to >> Michael, there were three different models of these. >> >> Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the >> bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. >> This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have >> the bracket I am looking for >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> >> Jean >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: MVC-857S.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 83968 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 10 10:56:40 2019 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 09:56:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - In-Reply-To: References: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: <56FBD96ABE2C4927817E05FE76AED917@DavidNockHP> Found boot lid #4455 in the wharehouse David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Curtis Arndt Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 9:38 AM To: David Nock BCS Cc: Jean Caron ; AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Here are some more bracket only photos. On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 9:35 AM Curtis Arndt wrote: That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have had an aluminum bonnet. Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS wrote: BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Jean Caron Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM To: AH Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Listers, Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for Thanks, Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52589 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 10 10:56:40 2019 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 09:56:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - In-Reply-To: References: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: <56FBD96ABE2C4927817E05FE76AED917@DavidNockHP> Found boot lid #4455 in the wharehouse David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Curtis Arndt Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 9:38 AM To: David Nock BCS Cc: Jean Caron ; AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Here are some more bracket only photos. On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 9:35 AM Curtis Arndt wrote: That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have had an aluminum bonnet. Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS wrote: BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Jean Caron Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM To: AH Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Listers, Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for Thanks, Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0101[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 30848 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0103[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 28745 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0102[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 30954 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52589 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 10 11:15:42 2019 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 10:15:42 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - In-Reply-To: References: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: Yes sorry for the confusion it is a steel trunk lid on an early car. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Curtis Arndt Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 9:35 AM To: David Nock BCS Cc: Jean Caron ; AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have had an aluminum bonnet. Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS wrote: BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Jean Caron Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM To: AH Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Listers, Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for Thanks, Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52589 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 10 11:15:42 2019 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 10:15:42 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - In-Reply-To: References: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: Yes sorry for the confusion it is a steel trunk lid on an early car. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Curtis Arndt Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 9:35 AM To: David Nock BCS Cc: Jean Caron ; AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have had an aluminum bonnet. Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS wrote: BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Jean Caron Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM To: AH Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Listers, Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for Thanks, Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52589 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Dec 10 12:39:02 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 14:39:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - In-Reply-To: References: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: Hi Curt, I notice that the bracket in your photos uses 3 screws ... do you remember the body number? B.#1276 had only 2. ... wondering if the number of screws changed at some point? M On Tue, Dec 10, 2019, 1:44 PM Curtis Arndt, wrote: > Here are some more bracket only photos. > > On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 9:35 AM Curtis Arndt wrote: > >> That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have >> had an aluminum bonnet. >> >> Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Curt >> >> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS >> wrote: >> >>> BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 >>> >>> >>> [image: IMG_0095] >>> >>> David Nock >>> British Car Specialists >>> 209-948-8767 >>> www.britishcarspecialists.com >>> >>> *From:* Jean Caron >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM >>> *To:* AH Mail List >>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - >>> >>> >>> Listers, >>> >>> Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and >>> the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium >>> and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I >>> got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has >>> three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According >>> to Michael, there were three different models of these. >>> >>> Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the >>> bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. >>> This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have >>> the bracket I am looking for >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> >>> >>> Jean >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52589 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Dec 10 13:04:53 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 15:04:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - In-Reply-To: References: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: Now that is a very interesting picture !! [image: image.png] I could be mistaken but I believe that that picture indicates that the boot lit stay bracket, on the lid, remained of the same type as the very first production cars until after the change from aluminium to steel for the boot lid at B.#4129 That sure looks like a steel lid to me!! M On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 1:51 PM David Nock BCS wrote: > Yes sorry for the confusion it is a steel trunk lid on an early car. > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > *From:* Curtis Arndt > *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 9:35 AM > *To:* David Nock BCS > *Cc:* Jean Caron ; AH Mail List > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - > > That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have > had an aluminum bonnet. > > Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS < > mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > wrote: > >> BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 >> >> >> [image: IMG_0095] >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> 209-948-8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> >> *From:* Jean Caron >> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM >> *To:* AH Mail List >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - >> >> >> Listers, >> >> Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the >> bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and >> only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a >> photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three >> countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to >> Michael, there were three different models of these. >> >> Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the >> bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. >> This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have >> the bracket I am looking for >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> >> Jean >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52589 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 232012 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ynotink at msn.com Tue Dec 10 13:22:58 2019 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 20:22:58 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash In-Reply-To: References: <418490089.4663900.1575839080932.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <418490089.4663900.1575839080932@mail.yahoo.com> <3570d858-0752-152b-4f9c-63e59d606d19@chello.nl> , Message-ID: Thank you John, I had one of the later pieces at one time, but could never figure out how it fit. I finally gave up and discarded it and now see that was the correct thing to do. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: John Harper Sent: Monday, December 9, 2019 9:50 AM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Cc: Kees Oudesluijs ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash Bill The early 100 had a welded in bracket that just was turned down with a large hole where a screw, large washer and nut supported the centre of the dash. The later BN1s and BN2s had a separate bracket that supported the centre of the dash with the same central fixings but the top of the bracket fixed to the same holes as the rear view mirror. The bracket was shaped to allow spire nuts to be fitted. The mirror then fixed down using course self tap screws that fitted into the spire nuts below All the best On Sun, 8 Dec 2019 at 23:26, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > wrote: There is a longitudinal support spot welded to the steel scuttle at that point behind the dash. The exact hardware to attach the dash is somewhat of a mystery, at least to me, but it must include a distance piece to avoid denting the dash and some washers because the hole in the support is too large for the nut on the screw. I used a #10 phillips oval headed machine screw with a stainless steel trim washer and sundry hardware to tighten the assembly and avoid damage to the dash surface. I would be interested to know how it was originally done. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys > on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs > Sent: Sunday, December 8, 2019 10:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash Op 8-12-2019 om 22:04 schreef Michael MacLean: Can someone please tell me what the hole is above and to the left of the overdrive switch is for. In researching pictures on the internet I see some dash panels have the hole and others do not. Keep in mind I am putting an early two piece dash in my BN2 just because that is what I have that was given to me by the late Tom Rocke. This is the reason the overdrive switch seems to be in the wrong location for a BN2. The configuration of the early two piece dash has the ignition switch and the overdrive switch locations swapped. I have seen some pictures of the hole to the right of the overdrive switch with a screw in it, but I have no idea what it bolts to in the back. See picture of recently assembled dash after new paint job. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cnaarndt at gmail.com Tue Dec 10 14:15:48 2019 From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 13:15:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - In-Reply-To: References: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: Michael, The early Healey Blue boot lid bracket with the three screws was a car restored by the late Rich Chrysler, and it may not be correct. The red car two screw version is from Steve Kingsbury's late (as it has passed on to the fire gods) BN1 no. 598. We know that this one IS/was correct. Curt On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 12:05 PM Michael Salter wrote: > Now that is a very interesting picture !! > [image: image.png] > I could be mistaken but I believe that that picture indicates that the > boot lit stay bracket, on the lid, remained of the same > type as the very first production cars until after the change from > aluminium to steel for the boot lid at B.#4129 > That sure looks like a steel lid to me!! > > M > > > On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 1:51 PM David Nock BCS > wrote: > >> Yes sorry for the confusion it is a steel trunk lid on an early car. >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> 209-948-8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> >> *From:* Curtis Arndt >> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 9:35 AM >> *To:* David Nock BCS >> *Cc:* Jean Caron ; AH Mail >> List >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - >> >> That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have >> had an aluminum bonnet. >> >> Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Curt >> >> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS < >> mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > wrote: >> >>> BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 >>> >>> >>> [image: IMG_0095] >>> >>> David Nock >>> British Car Specialists >>> 209-948-8767 >>> www.britishcarspecialists.com >>> >>> *From:* Jean Caron >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM >>> *To:* AH Mail List >>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - >>> >>> >>> Listers, >>> >>> Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and >>> the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium >>> and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I >>> got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has >>> three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According >>> to Michael, there were three different models of these. >>> >>> Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the >>> bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. >>> This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have >>> the bracket I am looking for >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> >>> >>> Jean >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52589 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 232012 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Dec 10 13:41:39 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 15:41:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid bracket References: <695173BA-69D3-468B-80CD-FC8B461A9BB2.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <695173BA-69D3-468B-80CD-FC8B461A9BB2@aol.com> Well if you dig enough.....never know what you may find. Have not detected a body number stamp yet. Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5726.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 23376 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5725.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 23029 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5724.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 25237 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Dec 10 16:03:00 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 23:03:00 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - In-Reply-To: References: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157@DavidNockHP> , Message-ID: Curt/Michael, To add to the confusion here is a couple photos of the bracket on Body #1000. Jean [cid:image002.jpg at 01D5AF7B.AE8C5BD0] [cid:image005.jpg at 01D5AF7B.AE8C5BD0] [cid:image010.jpg at 01D5AF7B.AE8C5BD0] The car was restored by the original owner in California and I doubt, given the drawings done by the owner during the restoration and came with the car, that anything on it was modified. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Curtis Arndt Sent: December 10, 2019 3:18 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Michael, The early Healey Blue boot lid bracket with the three screws was a car restored by the late Rich Chrysler, and it may not be correct. The red car two screw version is from Steve Kingsbury's late (as it has passed on to the fire gods) BN1 no. 598. We know that this one IS/was correct. Curt On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 12:05 PM Michael Salter > wrote: Now that is a very interesting picture !! [cid:image003.png at 01D5AF7B.432BA670] I could be mistaken but I believe that that picture indicates that the boot lit stay bracket, on the lid, remained of the same type as the very first production cars until after the change from aluminium to steel for the boot lid at B.#4129 That sure looks like a steel lid to me!! M On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 1:51 PM David Nock BCS > wrote: Yes sorry for the confusion it is a steel trunk lid on an early car. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Curtis Arndt Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 9:35 AM To: David Nock BCS Cc: Jean Caron ; AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have had an aluminum bonnet. Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS wrote: BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 [IMG_0095] David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Jean Caron Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM To: AH Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Listers, Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for Thanks, Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: 7A732CBB38304C0AB96F5B5DAE0FA71D.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8539 bytes Desc: 7A732CBB38304C0AB96F5B5DAE0FA71D.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 424B0D488A2A41D99069C89BD6CB89E5.png Type: image/png Size: 135 bytes Desc: 424B0D488A2A41D99069C89BD6CB89E5.png URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Dec 10 16:12:52 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 18:12:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Boot lid Bracket Message-ID: Listers Well that nasty looking boot lid bracket gave up a body number, 1726. That would have been a late 1953/early 1954 car. I recall pulling a BN1 out of a chicken coup in Waimanalo Hawaii in the late 1970?s. I gave it to my eldest son in 1985, he was 15 at the time. Too far gone to repair (in those days) it was stripped by him (good way to pass on the passion) and he was gifted a little later with a 1957 BN4 parts car that is still on the road today. So I suspect that that rusty bracket came from the pile of BN1 parts of 34 years ago. As they say, A good story will sell anything, but I think I?ll clean it up and put it on my desk?. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjmorrio at colby.edu Tue Dec 10 18:46:50 2019 From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 18:46:50 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear seat back Message-ID: <7420FA00-1B6D-4136-A266-1D312A7BA4BF@colby.edu> Brad, I feel your frustration. I constructed my own wood rear seat assembly for my 65 BJ8 phase I from pattern taken from a punky spare 67 BJ8 phase 2 (New hinges from Healey Surgeons). It was about 5/8 inch too wide. Many trimming and refitting tries to get it to fit. Also I needed to make sure covering was not too thick. Had some vinyl with fuzzy backing and noticed that many wood parts were covered with non fuzzy back vinyl. Can?t suggest any easy fix for too wide. I think that you?ll have to strip end pieces and plane them to gain clearance. Tom Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 10, 2019, at 10:01 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Turn Signal Bulbholder (Bruce Steele) > 2. Re: Turn Signal Bulbholder (Michael Salter) > 3. Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site (Linwood Rose) > 4. rear seat back BJ8 (Brad Holden) > 5. Re: rear seat back BJ8 (Alan Seigrist) > 6. Bootlid Bracket - (Jean Caron) > 7. Re: rear seat back BJ8 (Perry) > 8. Re: rear seat back BJ8 (Perry) > 9. Re: Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) > 10. Re: rear seat back BJ8 (Jean Caron) > 11. Re: Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site (ahbn6 at verizon.net) > 12. Re: Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site (ahbn6 at verizon.net) > 13. Re: rear seat back BJ8 (Perry) > 14. Re: rear seat back BJ8 (Perry) > 15. Re: Bootlid Bracket - (David Nock BCS) > 16. Re: Bootlid Bracket - (Michael Salter) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 11:41:36 -0800 > From: "Bruce Steele" > To: "'i erbs'" , "'Michael MacLean'" > > Cc: "'Healeys'" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signal Bulbholder > Message-ID: <2a7e01d5aec8$acd99310$068cb930$@roadrunner.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > That?s what?s in my BN7. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs > Sent: Monday, December 09, 2019 10:06 AM > To: Michael MacLean > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signal Bulbholder > > > > The holder you got would fit my late BN4 nicely. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > 1959 Austin Healey BN4 > 1967 MGB > > > > On Mon, Dec 9, 2019, 9:49 AM Michael MacLean > wrote: > > In retrofitting an early two piece dash to my BN2 I have run into a snag with the turn signal indicator light assembly. The light assembly I bought from one of the usual suspects is a two piece affair. It has a very nice external threaded chrome bezel and an internal threaded green tube with a sort of lens coming up through the center and protruding into the bezel. This would be fine if it was mounted to a one piece dash, but as you can see in the picture the mounting hole is not centered in relation to the sheet metal above and behind the instrument panel. Easy enough, just grind away until it fits. This brings up another question. If I didn't want to bugger up an original early two piece dash, what did the early light bulbholder fitting that would fit here look like? > > Mike MacLean > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 16:56:21 -0500 > From: Michael Salter > To: Michael MacLean > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signal Bulbholder > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Michael, > I encountered the same issue with the early dash in B.#174. After a bit of > adjustment I managed to get the 2 holes essentially concentric and just > squeeze the light body into the gap. > > Not easy once the dash is installed I might mention!! > > M > > On Mon, Dec 9, 2019 at 12:48 PM Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> In retrofitting an early two piece dash to my BN2 I have run into a snag >> with the turn signal indicator light assembly. The light assembly I bought >> from one of the usual suspects is a two piece affair. It has a very nice >> external threaded chrome bezel and an internal threaded green tube with a >> sort of lens coming up through the center and protruding into the bezel. >> This would be fine if it was mounted to a one piece dash, but as you can >> see in the picture the mounting hole is not centered in relation to the >> sheet metal above and behind the instrument panel. Easy enough, just grind >> away until it fits. This brings up another question. If I didn't want to >> bugger up an original early two piece dash, what did the early light >> bulbholder fitting that would fit here look like? >> Mike MacLean >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 18:43:41 -0500 > From: Linwood Rose > To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > Message-ID: <87A14DE4-7ABA-4089-8379-A865C9C08D77 at mac.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. > Lin > > https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 > > > > Sent from my iPhone > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 18:56:47 -0500 > From: Brad Holden > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Guys, I wrote earlier today but my email came back saying it was under > review because I am not a member, but I IS a member so trying again. > Anyway, my rear seat assembly is back from the restorer, problem is for the > life of me I cannot get the rear backrest (squab) to fit between the inner > wheel well frames, it just seems to be too wide, I am looking at the sledge > hammer but know this is the wrong approach, any thoughts and many thanks. > Brad Holden > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:21:26 +0800 > From: Alan Seigrist > To: bradh904 at gmail.com > Cc: Healey list > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Brad - > > What part of the squab doesn't fit? Is it the wood frame at the bottom > (the one with the three bolt holes / carriage nuts)? Or is it the wood > frame at the side. Can you share a picture of the squab frame? Maybe if > we see that we can diagnose it for you. > > Best, > > Alan > >> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 7:57 AM Brad Holden wrote: >> >> Hi Guys, I wrote earlier today but my email came back saying it was under >> review because I am not a member, but I IS a member so trying again. >> Anyway, my rear seat assembly is back from the restorer, problem is for the >> life of me I cannot get the rear backrest (squab) to fit between the inner >> wheel well frames, it just seems to be too wide, I am looking at the sledge >> hammer but know this is the wrong approach, any thoughts and many thanks. >> Brad Holden >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 13:05:42 +0000 > From: Jean Caron > To: AH Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > Listers, > Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. > Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for > Thanks, > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 09:28:48 -0500 > From: Perry > To: "bradh904 at gmail.com" > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Something is seriously amiss. I do not have a back rest for a BJ8 in the garage at present so I can?t send the measurement between the wheel wells. Perhaps someone else can send that info and you can compare measurements. > Perry > > From: Brad Holden > It appears to be at least an inch to long, the wheel wells have of course been carpeted and the seat back butts up against the two side panels if I am doing this correctly > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 09:28:48 -0500 > From: Perry > To: "bradh904 at gmail.com" > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Something is seriously amiss. I do not have a back rest for a BJ8 in the garage at present so I can?t send the measurement between the wheel wells. Perhaps someone else can send that info and you can compare measurements. > Perry > > From: Brad Holden > It appears to be at least an inch to long, the wheel wells have of course been carpeted and the seat back butts up against the two side panels if I am doing this correctly > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 15:25:54 -0000 > From: > To: "'Linwood Rose'" > Cc: "'Healeys'" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > Message-ID: <001101d5af6e$1df97a10$59ec6e30$@alexarevel.plus.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Thanks for this. > > Seems like the only source of advice that he did not tap is this list? (Which list being something that I?ve always found invaluable). > > Simon > > > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Linwood Rose via Healeys > Sent: 09 December 2019 23:44 > To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > > > > Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. > > Lin > > > > https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 16:01:08 +0000 > From: Jean Caron > To: "bradh904 at gmail.com" , AH Mail List > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > Brad, > The folding part of the backrest is 36 ?? and the frame that it rests against is 38?. See photo. > > Jean > [cid:image002.jpg at 01D5AF40.C028E150] > [cid:image006.jpg at 01D5AF40.C028E150] > > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Brad Holden > Sent: December 10, 2019 7:55 AM > To: Jean Caron > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > > Hi Jean, the total width including the two side pieces is 39 and a half inches > > On Mon, Dec 9, 2019 at 9:30 PM Jean Caron > wrote: > Brad, > How wide is it, I have a BJ8 here right now and can compare how wide it is compare to this one that is fittd and working. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Brad Holden > Sent: December 9, 2019 5:57 PM > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > > Hi Guys, I wrote earlier today but my email came back saying it was under review because I am not a member, but I IS a member so trying again. Anyway, my rear seat assembly is back from the restorer, problem is for the life of me I cannot get the rear backrest (squab) to fit between the inner wheel well frames, it just seems to be too wide, I am looking at the sledge hammer but know this is the wrong approach, any thoughts and many thanks. > Brad Holden > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: E2F8B72913C14BE78B33E70383612BDE.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 106108 bytes > Desc: E2F8B72913C14BE78B33E70383612BDE.jpg > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 91C5C00BC321418D87C8FBCE2BCA0260.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 66568 bytes > Desc: 91C5C00BC321418D87C8FBCE2BCA0260.jpg > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:01:33 -0500 > From: > To: , "'Linwood Rose'" > > Cc: "Healey List" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > Message-ID: <000501d5af73$18aeb3e0$4a0c1ba0$@verizon.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I?ll put a link up on my site later today or tomorrow > > > > John Sims > > www.healey6.com > > Matawan, NJ > > > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys > Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 10:26 AM > To: 'Linwood Rose' > Cc: 'Healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > > > > Thanks for this. > > Seems like the only source of advice that he did not tap is this list? (Which list being something that I?ve always found invaluable). > > Simon > > > > From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Linwood Rose via Healeys > Sent: 09 December 2019 23:44 > To: healeylist > > Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > > > > Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. > > Lin > > > > https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:01:33 -0500 > From: > To: , "'Linwood Rose'" > > Cc: "Healey List" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > Message-ID: <000501d5af73$18aeb3e0$4a0c1ba0$@verizon.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I?ll put a link up on my site later today or tomorrow > > > > John Sims > > www.healey6.com > > Matawan, NJ > > > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys > Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 10:26 AM > To: 'Linwood Rose' > Cc: 'Healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > > > > Thanks for this. > > Seems like the only source of advice that he did not tap is this list? (Which list being something that I?ve always found invaluable). > > Simon > > > > From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Linwood Rose via Healeys > Sent: 09 December 2019 23:44 > To: healeylist > > Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > > > > Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. > > Lin > > > > https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:19:08 -0500 > From: Perry > To: Michael Salter > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Michael > The story goes like this: > My lovely wife says: I, (meaning her) has to die before you (meaning me) because I?m not going to clean up that ?mess? (read here Healey lovers) ?stash of Healey parts!? Confused yet? I suspect that there will not be a crypt for the parts or me. Probably just scatter my ashes over the 150+ brake shoes, 50 brake drums and 25,000 pounds of other Healey related dust collectors, lock the garage doors and wait for Mike and Frank (American Pickers) to show up. The stuff should be worth at least a $100 so she will get $50 and they clean up the mess! ? > Perry > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Michael Salter > Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 10:33 AM > To: Perry > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > > So Perry, when you die, if you actually do die, are they going to make a crypt of your Healey parts for you?? :-) > > M > > ? > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:19:08 -0500 > From: Perry > To: Michael Salter > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Michael > The story goes like this: > My lovely wife says: I, (meaning her) has to die before you (meaning me) because I?m not going to clean up that ?mess? (read here Healey lovers) ?stash of Healey parts!? Confused yet? I suspect that there will not be a crypt for the parts or me. Probably just scatter my ashes over the 150+ brake shoes, 50 brake drums and 25,000 pounds of other Healey related dust collectors, lock the garage doors and wait for Mike and Frank (American Pickers) to show up. The stuff should be worth at least a $100 so she will get $50 and they clean up the mess! ? > Perry > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Michael Salter > Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 10:33 AM > To: Perry > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > > So Perry, when you die, if you actually do die, are they going to make a crypt of your Healey parts for you?? :-) > > M > > ? > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 15 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 08:34:09 -0800 > From: "David Nock BCS" > To: "Jean Caron" , "AH Mail > List" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - > Message-ID: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157 at DavidNockHP> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 > > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > From: Jean Caron > Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM > To: AH Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - > > Listers, > > Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. > > Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for > > Thanks, > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 52589 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 16 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 12:01:18 -0500 > From: Michael Salter > To: David Nock BCS > Cc: Jean Caron , AH Mail > List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi David, > Many thanks for sending Jean that picture however I don't think that is the > correct lid stay anchor for either the car he is restoring or B.#741. > In the interests of ensuring that others do not accept that picture without > further research here is what I have found. > > Some years ago I was lucky enough to study and photograph B.#1267 and the > boot lid stay anchor, on the lid, was like this. > > [image: image.png] > > You can just make out the body number stamped on the anchor of this very > original 5000 mile car. This car has never been repainted and is an unusual > shade of gunmetal grey. > I'm very confident that this type of stay anchor was used on all 100's > prior to body number 1267. > > As I'm sure you are aware the sequence of assembly of the cars was not > strictly in the correct order of body number but I don't believe that this > confusion applies to body components to the same degree that it does to > mechanical ones. > > I should also mention that as far as I have been able to determine cars > fitted with this version of the boot lid had the foam rubber seal installed > into the shroud gutter as can be seen in this photo also of B.#1267. > > [image: image.png] > > It is interesting to note that the seal did not extend across the lower > edge of the shroud opening. > > Very Best Wishes for a Happy Christmas, > > Michael Salter > Technical Chairman Concours Guidelines Committee. > > > > On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 11:34 AM David Nock BCS > wrote: > >> BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 >> >> >> [image: IMG_0095] >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> 209-948-8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> >> *From:* Jean Caron >> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM >> *To:* AH Mail List >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - >> >> >> Listers, >> >> Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the >> bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and >> only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a >> photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three >> countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to >> Michael, there were three different models of these. >> >> Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the >> bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. >> This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have >> the bracket I am looking for >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> >> Jean >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: image.png > Type: image/png > Size: 1742876 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: image.png > Type: image/png > Size: 2504843 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > archives: http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 405 > **************************************** From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue Dec 10 19:00:10 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 18:00:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Top bows question Message-ID: I'm getting ready to have a new top installed and making sure I have all the right bits. The top bow legs fit into sockets. I read somewhere that the factory used plastic sleeves in the sockets. Moss does not show any sleeves in their catalogue. The sockets are a larger than the top bow legs so It makes sense to me to find something that will take up a bit of that slop. Any suggestions? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Dec 10 19:19:02 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 18:19:02 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Top bows question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: What year is the body? Is this your cobbled together 2 seater? BT7 had a bent and straight legged top bow. Bent leg fit in front holes, the straight in back on four seaters Never seen plastic inserts. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Tue, Dec 10, 2019, 6:03 PM richard mayor wrote: > I'm getting ready to have a new top installed and making sure I have all > the right bits. The top bow legs fit into sockets. I read somewhere that > the factory used plastic sleeves in the sockets. Moss does not show any > sleeves in their catalogue. The sockets are a larger than the top bow legs > so It makes sense to me to find something that will take up a bit of that > slop. Any suggestions? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Tue Dec 10 19:49:09 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 02:49:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Top bows question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard, On the BN6 tops the legs do indeed have a plastic cover, it is very thin and at least on the couple I have seen they were grey in colour and they cover the bottom 3.5? to 4? of the legs. One thing you could use is some clear shrink tubing cut to size, it is pretty well the same thickness. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: richard mayor Sent: December 10, 2019 8:03 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Top bows question I'm getting ready to have a new top installed and making sure I have all the right bits. The top bow legs fit into sockets. I read somewhere that the factory used plastic sleeves in the sockets. Moss does not show any sleeves in their catalogue. The sockets are a larger than the top bow legs so It makes sense to me to find something that will take up a bit of that slop. Any suggestions? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 10 23:45:28 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 22:45:28 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site In-Reply-To: <001101d5af6e$1df97a10$59ec6e30$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <87A14DE4-7ABA-4089-8379-A865C9C08D77@mac.com> <001101d5af6e$1df97a10$59ec6e30$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <000b01d5afee$93f0b280$bbd21780$@sbcglobal.net> Reminds me of the 1962 BT7 restoration I completed. The car was never as clean as it was when the restoration was underway! John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 7:26 AM To: 'Linwood Rose' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site Thanks for this. Seems like the only source of advice that he did not tap is this list? (Which list being something that I?ve always found invaluable). Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Linwood Rose via Healeys Sent: 09 December 2019 23:44 To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. Lin https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Dec 11 02:42:58 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 09:42:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant References: <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992@mail.yahoo.com> ???? I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars.? I did not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free rotation but no end play.? I started out with one .020 shim added to one .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim.?? A total of 5 shims.? The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I added an identical stack on top of the first five shims.? We are talking .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs.? This is where I stopped at about midnight last night.? I had enough for tonight.? I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of shims.? I have to order more to do the passenger side.? Nobody told me how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new parts and never having disassembled it in the first place.? By the way, the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this job had me a little confuse.? The illustration of the two bearings, distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance piece and the inside of the out bearing race.? It says 12 shims here!? You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed washer.? I started saying bad words when I saw that.? I still have at least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be enough.? I can tell you one thing,? if I ever have to turn the rotors again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place.? There, I feel better now. (Not really!) Mie MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Wed Dec 11 03:18:43 2019 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 05:18:43 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant In-Reply-To: <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6246c788-db03-0c49-1843-cc382a9ac3d7@earthlink.net> Mike, Yes, the factory parts list I have (AKD3523 shows the shims between the outer bearing and the tabbed washer. A previous owner drew an arrow showing the correct location. The shims go between the distance piece and the outer bearing. I've only done the shims on a few Healeys, but I've never seen that many shims required. Less than 0.060" thickness required. Can you send some photos of the hardware? Are the parts from a later BJ8, or earlier 3000 (different outer bearing, shims, distance piece, etc)? If the later BJ8, do you have the spacer that goes between the axle and the inner bearing? Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/11/19 4:42 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > ???? I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of > this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars.? I did > not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number > or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free > rotation but no end play.? I started out with one .020 shim added to one > .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim.?? A total > of 5 shims.? The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I > added an identical stack on top of the first five shims.? We are talking > .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs.? This > is where I stopped at about midnight last night.? I had enough for > tonight.? I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of > shims.? I have to order more to do the passenger side.? Nobody told me > how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new > parts and never having disassembled it in the first place.? By the way, > the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this > job had me a little confuse.? The illustration of the two bearings, > distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled > without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the > bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance > piece and the inside of the out bearing race.? It says 12 shims here! > You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed > washer.? I started saying bad words when I saw that.? I still have at > least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be > enough.? I can tell you one thing,? if I ever have to turn the rotors > again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place. > There, I feel better now. (Not really!) > Mie MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Dec 11 05:36:15 2019 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 07:36:15 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant In-Reply-To: <6246c788-db03-0c49-1843-cc382a9ac3d7@earthlink.net> References: <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992@mail.yahoo.com> <6246c788-db03-0c49-1843-cc382a9ac3d7@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <044801d5b01f$96141170$c23c3450$@rr.com> Mike, I don't know if your installation is like a BJ8, but the shim thickness in my BJ8 is 0.047. Make sure your assembly is like the attachment. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 5:19 AM To: Michael MacLean; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant Mike, Yes, the factory parts list I have (AKD3523 shows the shims between the outer bearing and the tabbed washer. A previous owner drew an arrow showing the correct location. The shims go between the distance piece and the outer bearing. I've only done the shims on a few Healeys, but I've never seen that many shims required. Less than 0.060" thickness required. Can you send some photos of the hardware? Are the parts from a later BJ8, or earlier 3000 (different outer bearing, shims, distance piece, etc)? If the later BJ8, do you have the spacer that goes between the axle and the inner bearing? Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/11/19 4:42 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of > this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars. I did > not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number > or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free > rotation but no end play. I started out with one .020 shim added to one > .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim. A total > of 5 shims. The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I > added an identical stack on top of the first five shims. We are talking > .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs. This > is where I stopped at about midnight last night. I had enough for > tonight. I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of > shims. I have to order more to do the passenger side. Nobody told me > how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new > parts and never having disassembled it in the first place. By the way, > the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this > job had me a little confuse. The illustration of the two bearings, > distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled > without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the > bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance > piece and the inside of the out bearing race. It says 12 shims here! > You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed > washer. I started saying bad words when I saw that. I still have at > least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be > enough. I can tell you one thing, if I ever have to turn the rotors > again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place. > There, I feel better now. (Not really!) > Mie MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Assembly hub sectioned (3).JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 73092 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Dec 11 06:02:58 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 08:02:58 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Yahoo Groups Message-ID: Listers that are members of Yahoo groups Heads up if you have not received a notice from Yahoo. In three days they will be changing the format for groups on Yahoo. If you have data on a site that you want to save you must do a download before midnight on the 14th. Suspect that is California time. P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Wed Dec 11 06:12:14 2019 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 13:12:14 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant In-Reply-To: <044801d5b01f$96141170$c23c3450$@rr.com> References: <044801d5b01f$96141170$c23c3450$@rr.com> Message-ID: <6E7C9C8A-247B-4B1E-B6B4-2F853D6DDC38@gmail.com> Nice pic Steve Alan - from my iPad > On 11 Dec 2019, at 12:37, Max Byers wrote: > > ?Mike, I don't know if your installation is like a BJ8, but the shim thickness in my BJ8 is 0.047. Make sure your assembly is like the attachment. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell > Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 5:19 AM > To: Michael MacLean; Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant > > Mike, > > Yes, the factory parts list I have (AKD3523 shows the shims between the > outer bearing and the tabbed washer. A previous owner drew an arrow > showing the correct location. The shims go between the distance piece > and the outer bearing. > > I've only done the shims on a few Healeys, but I've never seen that many > shims required. Less than 0.060" thickness required. > > Can you send some photos of the hardware? Are the parts from a later > BJ8, or earlier 3000 (different outer bearing, shims, distance piece, > etc)? If the later BJ8, do you have the spacer that goes between the > axle and the inner bearing? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > >> On 12/11/19 4:42 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: >> I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of >> this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars. I did >> not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number >> or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free >> rotation but no end play. I started out with one .020 shim added to one >> .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim. A total >> of 5 shims. The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I >> added an identical stack on top of the first five shims. We are talking >> .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs. This >> is where I stopped at about midnight last night. I had enough for >> tonight. I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of >> shims. I have to order more to do the passenger side. Nobody told me >> how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new >> parts and never having disassembled it in the first place. By the way, >> the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this >> job had me a little confuse. The illustration of the two bearings, >> distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled >> without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the >> bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance >> piece and the inside of the out bearing race. It says 12 shims here! >> You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed >> washer. I started saying bad words when I saw that. I still have at >> least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be >> enough. I can tell you one thing, if I ever have to turn the rotors >> again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place. >> There, I feel better now. (Not really!) >> Mie MacLean >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > From rrengineer.mike at att.net Wed Dec 11 08:26:33 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 15:26:33 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant References: <1059891305.6136084.1576077993363.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1059891305.6136084.1576077993363@mail.yahoo.com> I am retrofitting a 3000 disc brake setup to a BN2.? I invested in new correct front splines hubs for this purpose and all the appropriate hardware involved.? Now, the shim I bought do not look like they will fit over the diameter of the stub axle at the location (against the distance piece, behind the outer bearing).? Is there an inner diameter difference between BJ8 shims and earlier front suspensions?? Did I buy the wrong shims?? This job just gets to be more fun all the time.Mike MacLean P.S. Thanks for the clarification on shim location.? Apparantly I could have put a half inch of shims behind the tabbed washer and would never have been adjusted correctly.? I understand why they must go where they go now.? Just takes a while to get through this thick skull of mine. Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Wed Dec 11 09:29:43 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 08:29:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant In-Reply-To: <1059891305.6136084.1576077993363@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1059891305.6136084.1576077993363.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1059891305.6136084.1576077993363@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5D70DBCD1C074BCC8AD0DA1B8BECF5B4@DavidNockHP> Yes the BJ8 shims are different but they are not interchangable. Check the wheel bearing races, You probably do not have them set all the way down. Usually there is about .060 in shims. The shims will be installed between the spacer and the outer wheel bearing. The best way to adjust them is to do your adjustments with no grease. Then after you have the shims required remove the hub and them put your wheel bearing grease in and re assemble. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 7:26 AM To: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant I am retrofitting a 3000 disc brake setup to a BN2. I invested in new correct front splines hubs for this purpose and all the appropriate hardware involved. Now, the shim I bought do not look like they will fit over the diameter of the stub axle at the location (against the distance piece, behind the outer bearing). Is there an inner diameter difference between BJ8 shims and earlier front suspensions? Did I buy the wrong shims? This job just gets to be more fun all the time. Mike MacLean P.S. Thanks for the clarification on shim location. Apparantly I could have put a half inch of shims behind the tabbed washer and would never have been adjusted correctly. I understand why they must go where they go now. Just takes a while to get through this thick skull of mine. Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Wed Dec 11 10:11:38 2019 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 12:11:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant In-Reply-To: <1717681551.6181319.1576079589676@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992@mail.yahoo.com> <6246c788-db03-0c49-1843-cc382a9ac3d7@earthlink.net> <044801d5b01f$96141170$c23c3450$@rr.com> <1717681551.6181319.1576079589676@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <047701d5b046$0e3548b0$2a9fda10$@rr.com> That is the edge of the inner race of the outer bearing. I?ve attached another illustration that might add some understanding. Steve From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 10:53 AM To: Max Byers Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant OK, I see where the shims go in your cutaway illustration, but what is that thickness of material behind the tabbed washer and outside of the outer bearing? Mike M On Wednesday, December 11, 2019, 4:37:07 AM PST, Max Byers wrote: Mike, I don't know if your installation is like a BJ8, but the shim thickness in my BJ8 is 0.047. Make sure your assembly is like the attachment. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 5:19 AM To: Michael MacLean; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant Mike, Yes, the factory parts list I have (AKD3523 shows the shims between the outer bearing and the tabbed washer. A previous owner drew an arrow showing the correct location. The shims go between the distance piece and the outer bearing. I've only done the shims on a few Healeys, but I've never seen that many shims required. Less than 0.060" thickness required. Can you send some photos of the hardware? Are the parts from a later BJ8, or earlier 3000 (different outer bearing, shims, distance piece, etc)? If the later BJ8, do you have the spacer that goes between the axle and the inner bearing? Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/11/19 4:42 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of > this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars. I did > not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number > or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free > rotation but no end play. I started out with one .020 shim added to one > .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim. A total > of 5 shims. The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I > added an identical stack on top of the first five shims. We are talking > .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs. This > is where I stopped at about midnight last night. I had enough for > tonight. I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of > shims. I have to order more to do the passenger side. Nobody told me > how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new > parts and never having disassembled it in the first place. By the way, > the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this > job had me a little confuse. The illustration of the two bearings, > distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled > without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the > bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance > piece and the inside of the out bearing race. It says 12 shims here! > You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed > washer. I started saying bad words when I saw that. I still have at > least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be > enough. I can tell you one thing, if I ever have to turn the rotors > again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place. > There, I feel better now. (Not really!) > Mie MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Wheel bearing adjustment.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 335272 bytes Desc: not available URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Wed Dec 11 16:26:40 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 15:26:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Top bows question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ira, Seriously?!?! I'm offended! I don't "cobble" anything together. There is nothing "cobbled together" in putting a two seater rear shroud on a BT7 - using a factory 2 seater shroud and the factory support brace. The shroud is a direct bolt on affair. I did not cut anything or modify anything other than to add the factory shroud support brace over the wheel arches. And even then, I did not weld it in. It is riveted so it can be easily undone. Here's a photo so the listers can judge for themselves if I "cobbled" it together. [image: DSCN4746.jpg] On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 6:19 PM i erbs wrote: > What year is the body? Is this your cobbled together 2 seater? BT7 had a > bent and straight legged top bow. Bent leg fit in front holes, the straight > in back on four seaters > Never seen plastic inserts. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > 1959 Austin Healey BN4 > 1967 MGB > > On Tue, Dec 10, 2019, 6:03 PM richard mayor wrote: > >> I'm getting ready to have a new top installed and making sure I have all >> the right bits. The top bow legs fit into sockets. I read somewhere that >> the factory used plastic sleeves in the sockets. Moss does not show any >> sleeves in their catalogue. The sockets are a larger than the top bow legs >> so It makes sense to me to find something that will take up a bit of that >> slop. Any suggestions? >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4746.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1827257 bytes Desc: not available URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Dec 11 16:28:10 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 15:28:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Top bows question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sorry Richard Your skills come without question. Said, fitmlywith tongue in cheek. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Wed, Dec 11, 2019, 3:26 PM richard mayor wrote: > Ira, Seriously?!?! I'm offended! I don't "cobble" anything > together. There is nothing "cobbled together" in putting a two seater rear > shroud on a BT7 - using a factory 2 seater shroud and the factory support > brace. The shroud is a direct bolt on affair. I did not cut anything or > modify anything other than to add the factory shroud support brace over the > wheel arches. And even then, I did not weld it in. It is riveted so it can > be easily undone. Here's a photo so the listers can judge for themselves > if I "cobbled" it together. > [image: DSCN4746.jpg] > > > On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 6:19 PM i erbs wrote: > >> What year is the body? Is this your cobbled together 2 seater? BT7 had a >> bent and straight legged top bow. Bent leg fit in front holes, the straight >> in back on four seaters >> Never seen plastic inserts. >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> 1959 Austin Healey BN4 >> 1967 MGB >> >> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019, 6:03 PM richard mayor >> wrote: >> >>> I'm getting ready to have a new top installed and making sure I have all >>> the right bits. The top bow legs fit into sockets. I read somewhere that >>> the factory used plastic sleeves in the sockets. Moss does not show any >>> sleeves in their catalogue. The sockets are a larger than the top bow legs >>> so It makes sense to me to find something that will take up a bit of that >>> slop. Any suggestions? >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >>> >>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4746.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1827257 bytes Desc: not available URL: From tld6008 at mchsi.com Wed Dec 11 16:31:55 2019 From: tld6008 at mchsi.com (Tim Davis BN7) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 18:31:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] Top bow questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1236466967.19263392.1576107115365.JavaMail.zimbra@mchsi.com> Mine looks similar to shrink fit tubing Tim Davis BN7 ----- Original Message ----- From: healeys-request at autox.team.net To: healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 14:00:02 -0500 (EST) Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 408 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to healeys at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to healeys-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at healeys-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Bootlid Bracket - (Michael Salter) 2. Re: Bootlid Bracket - (Michael Salter) 3. Re: Hole in the Dash (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) 4. Re: Bootlid Bracket - (Curtis Arndt) 5. Bootlid bracket (Perry Small) 6. Re: Bootlid Bracket - (Jean Caron) 7. Boot lid Bracket (Perry) 8. BJ8 rear seat back (Thomas Morrione) 9. Top bows question (richard mayor) 10. Re: Top bows question (i erbs) 11. Re: Top bows question (Jean Caron) 12. Re: Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site (John Spaur) 13. Wednesday Rant (Michael MacLean) 14. Re: Wednesday Rant (Bob Haskell) 15. Re: Wednesday Rant (Max Byers) 16. Yahoo Groups (Perry) 17. Re: Wednesday Rant (Bluehealey) 18. Re: Wednesday Rant (Michael MacLean) 19. Re: Wednesday Rant (David Nock) 20. Re: Wednesday Rant (Max Byers) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 14:39:02 -0500 From: Michael Salter To: Curtis Arndt Cc: David Nock BCS , AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Hi Curt, I notice that the bracket in your photos uses 3 screws ... do you remember the body number? B.#1276 had only 2. ... wondering if the number of screws changed at some point? M On Tue, Dec 10, 2019, 1:44 PM Curtis Arndt, wrote: > Here are some more bracket only photos. > > On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 9:35 AM Curtis Arndt wrote: > >> That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have >> had an aluminum bonnet. >> >> Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Curt >> >> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS >> wrote: >> >>> BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 >>> >>> >>> [image: IMG_0095] >>> >>> David Nock >>> British Car Specialists >>> 209-948-8767 >>> www.britishcarspecialists.com >>> >>> *From:* Jean Caron >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM >>> *To:* AH Mail List >>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - >>> >>> >>> Listers, >>> >>> Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and >>> the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium >>> and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I >>> got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has >>> three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According >>> to Michael, there were three different models of these. >>> >>> Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the >>> bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. >>> This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have >>> the bracket I am looking for >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> >>> >>> Jean >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52589 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 15:04:53 -0500 From: Michael Salter To: David Nock BCS Cc: Curtis Arndt , AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Now that is a very interesting picture !! [image: image.png] I could be mistaken but I believe that that picture indicates that the boot lit stay bracket, on the lid, remained of the same type as the very first production cars until after the change from aluminium to steel for the boot lid at B.#4129 That sure looks like a steel lid to me!! M On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 1:51 PM David Nock BCS wrote: > Yes sorry for the confusion it is a steel trunk lid on an early car. > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > *From:* Curtis Arndt > *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 9:35 AM > *To:* David Nock BCS > *Cc:* Jean Caron ; AH Mail List > > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - > > That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have > had an aluminum bonnet. > > Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. > > Cheers, > > Curt > > On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS < > mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > wrote: > >> BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 >> >> >> [image: IMG_0095] >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> 209-948-8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> >> *From:* Jean Caron >> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM >> *To:* AH Mail List >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - >> >> >> Listers, >> >> Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the >> bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and >> only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a >> photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three >> countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to >> Michael, there were three different models of these. >> >> Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the >> bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. >> This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have >> the bracket I am looking for >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> >> Jean >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52589 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 232012 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 20:22:58 +0000 From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: John Harper Cc: Kees Oudesluijs , "healeys at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Thank you John, I had one of the later pieces at one time, but could never figure out how it fit. I finally gave up and discarded it and now see that was the correct thing to do. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: John Harper Sent: Monday, December 9, 2019 9:50 AM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Cc: Kees Oudesluijs ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash Bill The early 100 had a welded in bracket that just was turned down with a large hole where a screw, large washer and nut supported the centre of the dash. The later BN1s and BN2s had a separate bracket that supported the centre of the dash with the same central fixings but the top of the bracket fixed to the same holes as the rear view mirror. The bracket was shaped to allow spire nuts to be fitted. The mirror then fixed down using course self tap screws that fitted into the spire nuts below All the best On Sun, 8 Dec 2019 at 23:26, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > wrote: There is a longitudinal support spot welded to the steel scuttle at that point behind the dash. The exact hardware to attach the dash is somewhat of a mystery, at least to me, but it must include a distance piece to avoid denting the dash and some washers because the hole in the support is too large for the nut on the screw. I used a #10 phillips oval headed machine screw with a stainless steel trim washer and sundry hardware to tighten the assembly and avoid damage to the dash surface. I would be interested to know how it was originally done. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys > on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs > Sent: Sunday, December 8, 2019 10:10 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash Op 8-12-2019 om 22:04 schreef Michael MacLean: Can someone please tell me what the hole is above and to the left of the overdrive switch is for. In researching pictures on the internet I see some dash panels have the hole and others do not. Keep in mind I am putting an early two piece dash in my BN2 just because that is what I have that was given to me by the late Tom Rocke. This is the reason the overdrive switch seems to be in the wrong location for a BN2. The configuration of the early two piece dash has the ignition switch and the overdrive switch locations swapped. I have seen some pictures of the hole to the right of the overdrive switch with a screw in it, but I have no idea what it bolts to in the back. See picture of recently assembled dash after new paint job. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 13:15:48 -0800 From: Curtis Arndt To: Michael Salter Cc: David Nock BCS , AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Michael, The early Healey Blue boot lid bracket with the three screws was a car restored by the late Rich Chrysler, and it may not be correct. The red car two screw version is from Steve Kingsbury's late (as it has passed on to the fire gods) BN1 no. 598. We know that this one IS/was correct. Curt On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 12:05 PM Michael Salter wrote: > Now that is a very interesting picture !! > [image: image.png] > I could be mistaken but I believe that that picture indicates that the > boot lit stay bracket, on the lid, remained of the same > type as the very first production cars until after the change from > aluminium to steel for the boot lid at B.#4129 > That sure looks like a steel lid to me!! > > M > > > On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 1:51 PM David Nock BCS > wrote: > >> Yes sorry for the confusion it is a steel trunk lid on an early car. >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> 209-948-8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> >> *From:* Curtis Arndt >> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 9:35 AM >> *To:* David Nock BCS >> *Cc:* Jean Caron ; AH Mail >> List >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - >> >> That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have >> had an aluminum bonnet. >> >> Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Curt >> >> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS < >> mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > wrote: >> >>> BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 >>> >>> >>> [image: IMG_0095] >>> >>> David Nock >>> British Car Specialists >>> 209-948-8767 >>> www.britishcarspecialists.com >>> >>> *From:* Jean Caron >>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM >>> *To:* AH Mail List >>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - >>> >>> >>> Listers, >>> >>> Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and >>> the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium >>> and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I >>> got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has >>> three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According >>> to Michael, there were three different models of these. >>> >>> Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the >>> bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. >>> This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have >>> the bracket I am looking for >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> >>> >>> Jean >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from Mail for >>> Windows 10 >>> >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 52589 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 232012 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 15:41:39 -0500 From: Perry Small To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid bracket Message-ID: <695173BA-69D3-468B-80CD-FC8B461A9BB2 at aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Well if you dig enough.....never know what you may find. Have not detected a body number stamp yet. Perry -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5726.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 23376 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5725.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 23029 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5724.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 25237 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 23:03:00 +0000 From: Jean Caron To: Curtis Arndt , Michael Salter Cc: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Curt/Michael, To add to the confusion here is a couple photos of the bracket on Body #1000. Jean [cid:image002.jpg at 01D5AF7B.AE8C5BD0] [cid:image005.jpg at 01D5AF7B.AE8C5BD0] [cid:image010.jpg at 01D5AF7B.AE8C5BD0] The car was restored by the original owner in California and I doubt, given the drawings done by the owner during the restoration and came with the car, that anything on it was modified. Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Curtis Arndt Sent: December 10, 2019 3:18 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Michael, The early Healey Blue boot lid bracket with the three screws was a car restored by the late Rich Chrysler, and it may not be correct. The red car two screw version is from Steve Kingsbury's late (as it has passed on to the fire gods) BN1 no. 598. We know that this one IS/was correct. Curt On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 12:05 PM Michael Salter > wrote: Now that is a very interesting picture !! [cid:image003.png at 01D5AF7B.432BA670] I could be mistaken but I believe that that picture indicates that the boot lit stay bracket, on the lid, remained of the same type as the very first production cars until after the change from aluminium to steel for the boot lid at B.#4129 That sure looks like a steel lid to me!! M On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 1:51 PM David Nock BCS > wrote: Yes sorry for the confusion it is a steel trunk lid on an early car. David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Curtis Arndt Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 9:35 AM To: David Nock BCS Cc: Jean Caron ; AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - That does not look correct. It's a steel bonnet, and no. 741 would have had an aluminum bonnet. Attached are photos of the aluminum bonnet bracket. Cheers, Curt On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 8:35 AM David Nock BCS wrote: BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 [IMG_0095] David Nock British Car Specialists 209-948-8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com From: Jean Caron Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM To: AH Mail List Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - Listers, Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for Thanks, Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: 7A732CBB38304C0AB96F5B5DAE0FA71D.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 8539 bytes Desc: 7A732CBB38304C0AB96F5B5DAE0FA71D.jpg URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 424B0D488A2A41D99069C89BD6CB89E5.png Type: image/png Size: 135 bytes Desc: 424B0D488A2A41D99069C89BD6CB89E5.png URL: ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 18:12:52 -0500 From: Perry To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Boot lid Bracket Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Listers Well that nasty looking boot lid bracket gave up a body number, 1726. That would have been a late 1953/early 1954 car. I recall pulling a BN1 out of a chicken coup in Waimanalo Hawaii in the late 1970?s. I gave it to my eldest son in 1985, he was 15 at the time. Too far gone to repair (in those days) it was stripped by him (good way to pass on the passion) and he was gifted a little later with a 1957 BN4 parts car that is still on the road today. So I suspect that that rusty bracket came from the pile of BN1 parts of 34 years ago. As they say, A good story will sell anything, but I think I?ll clean it up and put it on my desk?. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 18:46:50 -0700 From: Thomas Morrione To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 rear seat back Message-ID: <7420FA00-1B6D-4136-A266-1D312A7BA4BF at colby.edu> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Brad, I feel your frustration. I constructed my own wood rear seat assembly for my 65 BJ8 phase I from pattern taken from a punky spare 67 BJ8 phase 2 (New hinges from Healey Surgeons). It was about 5/8 inch too wide. Many trimming and refitting tries to get it to fit. Also I needed to make sure covering was not too thick. Had some vinyl with fuzzy backing and noticed that many wood parts were covered with non fuzzy back vinyl. Can?t suggest any easy fix for too wide. I think that you?ll have to strip end pieces and plane them to gain clearance. Tom Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 10, 2019, at 10:01 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Send Healeys mailing list submissions to > healeys at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > healeys-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > healeys-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Turn Signal Bulbholder (Bruce Steele) > 2. Re: Turn Signal Bulbholder (Michael Salter) > 3. Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site (Linwood Rose) > 4. rear seat back BJ8 (Brad Holden) > 5. Re: rear seat back BJ8 (Alan Seigrist) > 6. Bootlid Bracket - (Jean Caron) > 7. Re: rear seat back BJ8 (Perry) > 8. Re: rear seat back BJ8 (Perry) > 9. Re: Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) > 10. Re: rear seat back BJ8 (Jean Caron) > 11. Re: Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site (ahbn6 at verizon.net) > 12. Re: Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site (ahbn6 at verizon.net) > 13. Re: rear seat back BJ8 (Perry) > 14. Re: rear seat back BJ8 (Perry) > 15. Re: Bootlid Bracket - (David Nock BCS) > 16. Re: Bootlid Bracket - (Michael Salter) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 11:41:36 -0800 > From: "Bruce Steele" > To: "'i erbs'" , "'Michael MacLean'" > > Cc: "'Healeys'" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signal Bulbholder > Message-ID: <2a7e01d5aec8$acd99310$068cb930$@roadrunner.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > That?s what?s in my BN7. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs > Sent: Monday, December 09, 2019 10:06 AM > To: Michael MacLean > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signal Bulbholder > > > > The holder you got would fit my late BN4 nicely. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > 1959 Austin Healey BN4 > 1967 MGB > > > > On Mon, Dec 9, 2019, 9:49 AM Michael MacLean > wrote: > > In retrofitting an early two piece dash to my BN2 I have run into a snag with the turn signal indicator light assembly. The light assembly I bought from one of the usual suspects is a two piece affair. It has a very nice external threaded chrome bezel and an internal threaded green tube with a sort of lens coming up through the center and protruding into the bezel. This would be fine if it was mounted to a one piece dash, but as you can see in the picture the mounting hole is not centered in relation to the sheet metal above and behind the instrument panel. Easy enough, just grind away until it fits. This brings up another question. If I didn't want to bugger up an original early two piece dash, what did the early light bulbholder fitting that would fit here look like? > > Mike MacLean > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 16:56:21 -0500 > From: Michael Salter > To: Michael MacLean > Cc: Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Turn Signal Bulbholder > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Michael, > I encountered the same issue with the early dash in B.#174. After a bit of > adjustment I managed to get the 2 holes essentially concentric and just > squeeze the light body into the gap. > > Not easy once the dash is installed I might mention!! > > M > > On Mon, Dec 9, 2019 at 12:48 PM Michael MacLean > wrote: > >> In retrofitting an early two piece dash to my BN2 I have run into a snag >> with the turn signal indicator light assembly. The light assembly I bought >> from one of the usual suspects is a two piece affair. It has a very nice >> external threaded chrome bezel and an internal threaded green tube with a >> sort of lens coming up through the center and protruding into the bezel. >> This would be fine if it was mounted to a one piece dash, but as you can >> see in the picture the mounting hole is not centered in relation to the >> sheet metal above and behind the instrument panel. Easy enough, just grind >> away until it fits. This brings up another question. If I didn't want to >> bugger up an original early two piece dash, what did the early light >> bulbholder fitting that would fit here look like? >> Mike MacLean >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 18:43:41 -0500 > From: Linwood Rose > To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > Message-ID: <87A14DE4-7ABA-4089-8379-A865C9C08D77 at mac.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. > Lin > > https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 > > > > Sent from my iPhone > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Mon, 9 Dec 2019 18:56:47 -0500 > From: Brad Holden > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Guys, I wrote earlier today but my email came back saying it was under > review because I am not a member, but I IS a member so trying again. > Anyway, my rear seat assembly is back from the restorer, problem is for the > life of me I cannot get the rear backrest (squab) to fit between the inner > wheel well frames, it just seems to be too wide, I am looking at the sledge > hammer but know this is the wrong approach, any thoughts and many thanks. > Brad Holden > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:21:26 +0800 > From: Alan Seigrist > To: bradh904 at gmail.com > Cc: Healey list > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Brad - > > What part of the squab doesn't fit? Is it the wood frame at the bottom > (the one with the three bolt holes / carriage nuts)? Or is it the wood > frame at the side. Can you share a picture of the squab frame? Maybe if > we see that we can diagnose it for you. > > Best, > > Alan > >> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 7:57 AM Brad Holden wrote: >> >> Hi Guys, I wrote earlier today but my email came back saying it was under >> review because I am not a member, but I IS a member so trying again. >> Anyway, my rear seat assembly is back from the restorer, problem is for the >> life of me I cannot get the rear backrest (squab) to fit between the inner >> wheel well frames, it just seems to be too wide, I am looking at the sledge >> hammer but know this is the wrong approach, any thoughts and many thanks. >> Brad Holden >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 13:05:42 +0000 > From: Jean Caron > To: AH Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > Listers, > Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. > Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for > Thanks, > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 09:28:48 -0500 > From: Perry > To: "bradh904 at gmail.com" > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Something is seriously amiss. I do not have a back rest for a BJ8 in the garage at present so I can?t send the measurement between the wheel wells. Perhaps someone else can send that info and you can compare measurements. > Perry > > From: Brad Holden > It appears to be at least an inch to long, the wheel wells have of course been carpeted and the seat back butts up against the two side panels if I am doing this correctly > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 09:28:48 -0500 > From: Perry > To: "bradh904 at gmail.com" > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Something is seriously amiss. I do not have a back rest for a BJ8 in the garage at present so I can?t send the measurement between the wheel wells. Perhaps someone else can send that info and you can compare measurements. > Perry > > From: Brad Holden > It appears to be at least an inch to long, the wheel wells have of course been carpeted and the seat back butts up against the two side panels if I am doing this correctly > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 15:25:54 -0000 > From: > To: "'Linwood Rose'" > Cc: "'Healeys'" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > Message-ID: <001101d5af6e$1df97a10$59ec6e30$@alexarevel.plus.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Thanks for this. > > Seems like the only source of advice that he did not tap is this list? (Which list being something that I?ve always found invaluable). > > Simon > > > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Linwood Rose via Healeys > Sent: 09 December 2019 23:44 > To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > > > > Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. > > Lin > > > > https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 16:01:08 +0000 > From: Jean Caron > To: "bradh904 at gmail.com" , AH Mail List > > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > Brad, > The folding part of the backrest is 36 ?? and the frame that it rests against is 38?. See photo. > > Jean > [cid:image002.jpg at 01D5AF40.C028E150] > [cid:image006.jpg at 01D5AF40.C028E150] > > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Brad Holden > Sent: December 10, 2019 7:55 AM > To: Jean Caron > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > > Hi Jean, the total width including the two side pieces is 39 and a half inches > > On Mon, Dec 9, 2019 at 9:30 PM Jean Caron > wrote: > Brad, > How wide is it, I have a BJ8 here right now and can compare how wide it is compare to this one that is fittd and working. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Brad Holden > Sent: December 9, 2019 5:57 PM > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > > Hi Guys, I wrote earlier today but my email came back saying it was under review because I am not a member, but I IS a member so trying again. Anyway, my rear seat assembly is back from the restorer, problem is for the life of me I cannot get the rear backrest (squab) to fit between the inner wheel well frames, it just seems to be too wide, I am looking at the sledge hammer but know this is the wrong approach, any thoughts and many thanks. > Brad Holden > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: E2F8B72913C14BE78B33E70383612BDE.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 106108 bytes > Desc: E2F8B72913C14BE78B33E70383612BDE.jpg > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: 91C5C00BC321418D87C8FBCE2BCA0260.jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 66568 bytes > Desc: 91C5C00BC321418D87C8FBCE2BCA0260.jpg > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 11 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:01:33 -0500 > From: > To: , "'Linwood Rose'" > > Cc: "Healey List" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > Message-ID: <000501d5af73$18aeb3e0$4a0c1ba0$@verizon.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I?ll put a link up on my site later today or tomorrow > > > > John Sims > > www.healey6.com > > Matawan, NJ > > > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys > Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 10:26 AM > To: 'Linwood Rose' > Cc: 'Healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > > > > Thanks for this. > > Seems like the only source of advice that he did not tap is this list? (Which list being something that I?ve always found invaluable). > > Simon > > > > From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Linwood Rose via Healeys > Sent: 09 December 2019 23:44 > To: healeylist > > Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > > > > Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. > > Lin > > > > https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 12 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:01:33 -0500 > From: > To: , "'Linwood Rose'" > > Cc: "Healey List" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > Message-ID: <000501d5af73$18aeb3e0$4a0c1ba0$@verizon.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I?ll put a link up on my site later today or tomorrow > > > > John Sims > > www.healey6.com > > Matawan, NJ > > > > From: Healeys On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys > Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 10:26 AM > To: 'Linwood Rose' > Cc: 'Healeys' > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > > > > Thanks for this. > > Seems like the only source of advice that he did not tap is this list? (Which list being something that I?ve always found invaluable). > > Simon > > > > From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Linwood Rose via Healeys > Sent: 09 December 2019 23:44 > To: healeylist > > Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site > > > > Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. > > Lin > > > > https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 > > > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 13 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:19:08 -0500 > From: Perry > To: Michael Salter > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Michael > The story goes like this: > My lovely wife says: I, (meaning her) has to die before you (meaning me) because I?m not going to clean up that ?mess? (read here Healey lovers) ?stash of Healey parts!? Confused yet? I suspect that there will not be a crypt for the parts or me. Probably just scatter my ashes over the 150+ brake shoes, 50 brake drums and 25,000 pounds of other Healey related dust collectors, lock the garage doors and wait for Mike and Frank (American Pickers) to show up. The stuff should be worth at least a $100 so she will get $50 and they clean up the mess! ? > Perry > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Michael Salter > Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 10:33 AM > To: Perry > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > > So Perry, when you die, if you actually do die, are they going to make a crypt of your Healey parts for you?? :-) > > M > > ? > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 14 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 11:19:08 -0500 > From: Perry > To: Michael Salter > Cc: healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Michael > The story goes like this: > My lovely wife says: I, (meaning her) has to die before you (meaning me) because I?m not going to clean up that ?mess? (read here Healey lovers) ?stash of Healey parts!? Confused yet? I suspect that there will not be a crypt for the parts or me. Probably just scatter my ashes over the 150+ brake shoes, 50 brake drums and 25,000 pounds of other Healey related dust collectors, lock the garage doors and wait for Mike and Frank (American Pickers) to show up. The stuff should be worth at least a $100 so she will get $50 and they clean up the mess! ? > Perry > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Michael Salter > Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 10:33 AM > To: Perry > Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear seat back BJ8 > > So Perry, when you die, if you actually do die, are they going to make a crypt of your Healey parts for you?? :-) > > M > > ? > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 15 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 08:34:09 -0800 > From: "David Nock BCS" > To: "Jean Caron" , "AH Mail > List" > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - > Message-ID: <9E07C51896DE435DB4CFE81E8AA93157 at DavidNockHP> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" > > BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 > > > > > David Nock > British Car Specialists > 209-948-8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > From: Jean Caron > Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM > To: AH Mail List > Subject: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - > > Listers, > > Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to Michael, there were three different models of these. > > Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have the bracket I am looking for > > Thanks, > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_0095[2].jpg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 52589 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 16 > Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 12:01:18 -0500 > From: Michael Salter > To: David Nock BCS > Cc: Jean Caron , AH Mail > List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi David, > Many thanks for sending Jean that picture however I don't think that is the > correct lid stay anchor for either the car he is restoring or B.#741. > In the interests of ensuring that others do not accept that picture without > further research here is what I have found. > > Some years ago I was lucky enough to study and photograph B.#1267 and the > boot lid stay anchor, on the lid, was like this. > > [image: image.png] > > You can just make out the body number stamped on the anchor of this very > original 5000 mile car. This car has never been repainted and is an unusual > shade of gunmetal grey. > I'm very confident that this type of stay anchor was used on all 100's > prior to body number 1267. > > As I'm sure you are aware the sequence of assembly of the cars was not > strictly in the correct order of body number but I don't believe that this > confusion applies to body components to the same degree that it does to > mechanical ones. > > I should also mention that as far as I have been able to determine cars > fitted with this version of the boot lid had the foam rubber seal installed > into the shroud gutter as can be seen in this photo also of B.#1267. > > [image: image.png] > > It is interesting to note that the seal did not extend across the lower > edge of the shroud opening. > > Very Best Wishes for a Happy Christmas, > > Michael Salter > Technical Chairman Concours Guidelines Committee. > > > > On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 11:34 AM David Nock BCS > wrote: > >> BN1 Boot support on Car # 741 >> >> >> [image: IMG_0095] >> >> David Nock >> British Car Specialists >> 209-948-8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> >> *From:* Jean Caron >> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 10, 2019 5:05 AM >> *To:* AH Mail List >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bootlid Bracket - >> >> >> Listers, >> >> Currently working on a bootlid(trunk) for an early BN1 (Nov. ?53) and the >> bracket for the telescopic proprod is missing. The bootlid is aluminium and >> only shows one hole for the bracket to be secured to it. Yesterday I got a >> photo of one model of bracket from Michael Salter but this model has three >> countersunk machined screws holding the bracket to the lid. According to >> Michael, there were three different models of these. >> >> Would anyone with a model that has only one machined screw securing the >> bracket to the lid send me a photo so I can fabricate one such bracket. >> This BN1 is Body #877 so perhaps any model around that number would have >> the bracket I am looking for >> >> Thanks, >> >> >> >> Jean >> >> >> >> Sent from Mail for >> Windows 10 >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: image.png > Type: image/png > Size: 1742876 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: image.png > Type: image/png > Size: 2504843 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Healeys mailing list > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > archives: http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 405 > **************************************** ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 18:00:10 -0800 From: richard mayor To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Top bows question Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I'm getting ready to have a new top installed and making sure I have all the right bits. The top bow legs fit into sockets. I read somewhere that the factory used plastic sleeves in the sockets. Moss does not show any sleeves in their catalogue. The sockets are a larger than the top bow legs so It makes sense to me to find something that will take up a bit of that slop. Any suggestions? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 18:19:02 -0800 From: i erbs To: richard mayor Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Top bows question Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" What year is the body? Is this your cobbled together 2 seater? BT7 had a bent and straight legged top bow. Bent leg fit in front holes, the straight in back on four seaters Never seen plastic inserts. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Tue, Dec 10, 2019, 6:03 PM richard mayor wrote: > I'm getting ready to have a new top installed and making sure I have all > the right bits. The top bow legs fit into sockets. I read somewhere that > the factory used plastic sleeves in the sockets. Moss does not show any > sleeves in their catalogue. The sockets are a larger than the top bow legs > so It makes sense to me to find something that will take up a bit of that > slop. Any suggestions? > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 02:49:09 +0000 From: Jean Caron To: richard mayor , healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Top bows question Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252" Richard, On the BN6 tops the legs do indeed have a plastic cover, it is very thin and at least on the couple I have seen they were grey in colour and they cover the bottom 3.5? to 4? of the legs. One thing you could use is some clear shrink tubing cut to size, it is pretty well the same thickness. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: richard mayor Sent: December 10, 2019 8:03 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Top bows question I'm getting ready to have a new top installed and making sure I have all the right bits. The top bow legs fit into sockets. I read somewhere that the factory used plastic sleeves in the sockets. Moss does not show any sleeves in their catalogue. The sockets are a larger than the top bow legs so It makes sense to me to find something that will take up a bit of that slop. Any suggestions? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2019 22:45:28 -0800 From: "John Spaur" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site Message-ID: <000b01d5afee$93f0b280$bbd21780$@sbcglobal.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Reminds me of the 1962 BT7 restoration I completed. The car was never as clean as it was when the restoration was underway! John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan via Healeys Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 7:26 AM To: 'Linwood Rose' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site Thanks for this. Seems like the only source of advice that he did not tap is this list? (Which list being something that I?ve always found invaluable). Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Linwood Rose via Healeys Sent: 09 December 2019 23:44 To: healeylist > Subject: [Healeys] Fairly new 100 restoration YouTube site Check it out, and subscribe if you like it. Lin https://youtu.be/j21u7DFTos0 Sent from my iPhone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 09:42:58 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant Message-ID: <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" ???? I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars.? I did not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free rotation but no end play.? I started out with one .020 shim added to one .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim.?? A total of 5 shims.? The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I added an identical stack on top of the first five shims.? We are talking .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs.? This is where I stopped at about midnight last night.? I had enough for tonight.? I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of shims.? I have to order more to do the passenger side.? Nobody told me how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new parts and never having disassembled it in the first place.? By the way, the ins tructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this job had me a little confuse.? The illustration of the two bearings, distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance piece and the inside of the out bearing race.? It says 12 shims here!? You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed washer.? I started saying bad words when I saw that.? I still have at least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be enough.? I can tell you one thing,? if I ever have to turn the rotors again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place.? There, I feel better now. (Not really!) Mie MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 05:18:43 -0500 From: Bob Haskell To: Michael MacLean , Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant Message-ID: <6246c788-db03-0c49-1843-cc382a9ac3d7 at earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Mike, Yes, the factory parts list I have (AKD3523 shows the shims between the outer bearing and the tabbed washer. A previous owner drew an arrow showing the correct location. The shims go between the distance piece and the outer bearing. I've only done the shims on a few Healeys, but I've never seen that many shims required. Less than 0.060" thickness required. Can you send some photos of the hardware? Are the parts from a later BJ8, or earlier 3000 (different outer bearing, shims, distance piece, etc)? If the later BJ8, do you have the spacer that goes between the axle and the inner bearing? Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/11/19 4:42 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > ???? I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of > this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars.? I did > not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number > or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free > rotation but no end play.? I started out with one .020 shim added to one > .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim.?? A total > of 5 shims.? The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I > added an identical stack on top of the first five shims.? We are talking > .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs.? This > is where I stopped at about midnight last night.? I had enough for > tonight.? I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of > shims.? I have to order more to do the passenger side.? Nobody told me > how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new > parts and never having disassembled it in the first place.? By the way, > the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this > job had me a little confuse.? The illustration of the two bearings, > distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled > without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the > bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance > piece and the inside of the out bearing race.? It says 12 shims here! > You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed > washer.? I started saying bad words when I saw that.? I still have at > least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be > enough.? I can tell you one thing,? if I ever have to turn the rotors > again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place. > There, I feel better now. (Not really!) > Mie MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 07:36:15 -0500 From: "Max Byers" To: "'Healeys'" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant Message-ID: <044801d5b01f$96141170$c23c3450$@rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Mike, I don't know if your installation is like a BJ8, but the shim thickness in my BJ8 is 0.047. Make sure your assembly is like the attachment. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 5:19 AM To: Michael MacLean; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant Mike, Yes, the factory parts list I have (AKD3523 shows the shims between the outer bearing and the tabbed washer. A previous owner drew an arrow showing the correct location. The shims go between the distance piece and the outer bearing. I've only done the shims on a few Healeys, but I've never seen that many shims required. Less than 0.060" thickness required. Can you send some photos of the hardware? Are the parts from a later BJ8, or earlier 3000 (different outer bearing, shims, distance piece, etc)? If the later BJ8, do you have the spacer that goes between the axle and the inner bearing? Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/11/19 4:42 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of > this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars. I did > not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number > or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free > rotation but no end play. I started out with one .020 shim added to one > .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim. A total > of 5 shims. The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I > added an identical stack on top of the first five shims. We are talking > .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs. This > is where I stopped at about midnight last night. I had enough for > tonight. I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of > shims. I have to order more to do the passenger side. Nobody told me > how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new > parts and never having disassembled it in the first place. By the way, > the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this > job had me a little confuse. The illustration of the two bearings, > distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled > without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the > bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance > piece and the inside of the out bearing race. It says 12 shims here! > You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed > washer. I started saying bad words when I saw that. I still have at > least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be > enough. I can tell you one thing, if I ever have to turn the rotors > again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place. > There, I feel better now. (Not really!) > Mie MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Assembly hub sectioned (3).JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 73092 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 08:02:58 -0500 From: Perry To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Yahoo Groups Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Listers that are members of Yahoo groups Heads up if you have not received a notice from Yahoo. In three days they will be changing the format for groups on Yahoo. If you have data on a site that you want to save you must do a download before midnight on the 14th. Suspect that is California time. P Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 13:12:14 +0000 From: Bluehealey To: Max Byers Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant Message-ID: <6E7C9C8A-247B-4B1E-B6B4-2F853D6DDC38 at gmail.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Nice pic Steve Alan - from my iPad > On 11 Dec 2019, at 12:37, Max Byers wrote: > > ?Mike, I don't know if your installation is like a BJ8, but the shim thickness in my BJ8 is 0.047. Make sure your assembly is like the attachment. > > Steve Byers > HBJ8L/36666 > BJ8 Registry > AHCA Delegate at Large > Havelock, NC USA > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell > Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 5:19 AM > To: Michael MacLean; Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant > > Mike, > > Yes, the factory parts list I have (AKD3523 shows the shims between the > outer bearing and the tabbed washer. A previous owner drew an arrow > showing the correct location. The shims go between the distance piece > and the outer bearing. > > I've only done the shims on a few Healeys, but I've never seen that many > shims required. Less than 0.060" thickness required. > > Can you send some photos of the hardware? Are the parts from a later > BJ8, or earlier 3000 (different outer bearing, shims, distance piece, > etc)? If the later BJ8, do you have the spacer that goes between the > axle and the inner bearing? > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > >> On 12/11/19 4:42 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: >> I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of >> this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars. I did >> not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number >> or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free >> rotation but no end play. I started out with one .020 shim added to one >> .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim. A total >> of 5 shims. The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I >> added an identical stack on top of the first five shims. We are talking >> .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs. This >> is where I stopped at about midnight last night. I had enough for >> tonight. I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of >> shims. I have to order more to do the passenger side. Nobody told me >> how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new >> parts and never having disassembled it in the first place. By the way, >> the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this >> job had me a little confuse. The illustration of the two bearings, >> distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled >> without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the >> bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance >> piece and the inside of the out bearing race. It says 12 shims here! >> You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed >> washer. I started saying bad words when I saw that. I still have at >> least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be >> enough. I can tell you one thing, if I ever have to turn the rotors >> again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place. >> There, I feel better now. (Not really!) >> Mie MacLean >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 15:26:33 +0000 (UTC) From: Michael MacLean To: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant Message-ID: <1059891305.6136084.1576077993363 at mail.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I am retrofitting a 3000 disc brake setup to a BN2.? I invested in new correct front splines hubs for this purpose and all the appropriate hardware involved.? Now, the shim I bought do not look like they will fit over the diameter of the stub axle at the location (against the distance piece, behind the outer bearing).? Is there an inner diameter difference between BJ8 shims and earlier front suspensions?? Did I buy the wrong shims?? This job just gets to be more fun all the time.Mike MacLean P.S. Thanks for the clarification on shim location.? Apparantly I could have put a half inch of shims behind the tabbed washer and would never have been adjusted correctly.? I understand why they must go where they go now.? Just takes a while to get through this thick skull of mine. Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 08:29:43 -0800 From: "David Nock" To: , "Healeys" Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant Message-ID: <5D70DBCD1C074BCC8AD0DA1B8BECF5B4 at DavidNockHP> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Yes the BJ8 shims are different but they are not interchangable. Check the wheel bearing races, You probably do not have them set all the way down. Usually there is about .060 in shims. The shims will be installed between the spacer and the outer wheel bearing. The best way to adjust them is to do your adjustments with no grease. Then after you have the shims required remove the hub and them put your wheel bearing grease in and re assemble. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael MacLean Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 7:26 AM To: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant I am retrofitting a 3000 disc brake setup to a BN2. I invested in new correct front splines hubs for this purpose and all the appropriate hardware involved. Now, the shim I bought do not look like they will fit over the diameter of the stub axle at the location (against the distance piece, behind the outer bearing). Is there an inner diameter difference between BJ8 shims and earlier front suspensions? Did I buy the wrong shims? This job just gets to be more fun all the time. Mike MacLean P.S. Thanks for the clarification on shim location. Apparantly I could have put a half inch of shims behind the tabbed washer and would never have been adjusted correctly. I understand why they must go where they go now. Just takes a while to get through this thick skull of mine. Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 12:11:38 -0500 From: "Max Byers" To: Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant Message-ID: <047701d5b046$0e3548b0$2a9fda10$@rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" That is the edge of the inner race of the outer bearing. I?ve attached another illustration that might add some understanding. Steve From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 10:53 AM To: Max Byers Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant OK, I see where the shims go in your cutaway illustration, but what is that thickness of material behind the tabbed washer and outside of the outer bearing? Mike M On Wednesday, December 11, 2019, 4:37:07 AM PST, Max Byers wrote: Mike, I don't know if your installation is like a BJ8, but the shim thickness in my BJ8 is 0.047. Make sure your assembly is like the attachment. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 5:19 AM To: Michael MacLean; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant Mike, Yes, the factory parts list I have (AKD3523 shows the shims between the outer bearing and the tabbed washer. A previous owner drew an arrow showing the correct location. The shims go between the distance piece and the outer bearing. I've only done the shims on a few Healeys, but I've never seen that many shims required. Less than 0.060" thickness required. Can you send some photos of the hardware? Are the parts from a later BJ8, or earlier 3000 (different outer bearing, shims, distance piece, etc)? If the later BJ8, do you have the spacer that goes between the axle and the inner bearing? Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/11/19 4:42 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of > this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars. I did > not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number > or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free > rotation but no end play. I started out with one .020 shim added to one > .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim. A total > of 5 shims. The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I > added an identical stack on top of the first five shims. We are talking > .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs. This > is where I stopped at about midnight last night. I had enough for > tonight. I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of > shims. I have to order more to do the passenger side. Nobody told me > how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new > parts and never having disassembled it in the first place. By the way, > the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this > job had me a little confuse. The illustration of the two bearings, > distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled > without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the > bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance > piece and the inside of the out bearing race. It says 12 shims here! > You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed > washer. I started saying bad words when I saw that. I still have at > least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be > enough. I can tell you one thing, if I ever have to turn the rotors > again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place. > There, I feel better now. (Not really!) > Mie MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Wheel bearing adjustment.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 335272 bytes Desc: not available URL: ------------------------------ Subject: Digest Footer _______________________________________________ Healeys mailing list Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys archives: http://autox.team.net/archive ------------------------------ End of Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 408 **************************************** From editorgary at aol.com Wed Dec 11 18:06:18 2019 From: editorgary at aol.com (editorgary at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 01:06:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Two-seat top bows In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <438735160.8048843.1576112778577@mail.yahoo.com> On my BN7, i put plastic sleeves, about four inches long, over the bottoms of the top bows where they fit into the support holes behind the doors. I think I found them in a hardware store, intended to cover a tool handle or some such thing (it was 30 years ago). This filled the space between the bow leg and the sides of the socket, and more importantly protected the car and trim finish from the metal of the top bow legs, important when I had to put on or take off the top by myself. Gary Anderson -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed Dec 11 18:52:05 2019 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 20:52:05 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant In-Reply-To: <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <005a01d5b08e$c1c5d4b0$45517e10$@sympatico.ca> Assuming the setup is the same as my BT7, the shims go between the distance piece and the outer bearing. The heavy washer goes on the outside of the bearing. If you are putting the shims on the outside of the outer bearing, they will not do anything (other than make you see stars). The idea is to increase/decrease the distance between the inner and outer bearings so that they run freely on the outer races with no play and no pre-load. I only have 2-3 shims each side. If you are assembling in the correct order, the number of shims indicates something else is wrong, perhaps a bearing not seater correctly, outer races not seater properly, a PO buggering up the distance piece ? any number of issues. If the setup on the BN2 is substantially different to the BT7, I am sure someone on the list will reveal my ignorance, and you can ignore my advice. Hope it all goes better tomorrow! Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December-11-19 4:43 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars. I did not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free rotation but no end play. I started out with one .020 shim added to one .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim. A total of 5 shims. The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I added an identical stack on top of the first five shims. We are talking .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs. This is where I stopped at about midnight last night. I had enough for tonight. I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of shims. I have to order more to do the passenger side. Nobody told me how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new parts and never having disassembled it in the first place. By the way, the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this job had me a little confuse. The illustration of the two bearings, distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance piece and the inside of the out bearing race. It says 12 shims here! You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed washer. I started saying bad words when I saw that. I still have at least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be enough. I can tell you one thing, if I ever have to turn the rotors again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place. There, I feel better now. (Not really!) Mie MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Wed Dec 11 19:04:10 2019 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 21:04:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant In-Reply-To: <047701d5b046$0e3548b0$2a9fda10$@rr.com> References: <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1921595681.11888217.1576057378992@mail.yahoo.com> <6246c788-db03-0c49-1843-cc382a9ac3d7@earthlink.net> <044801d5b01f$96141170$c23c3450$@rr.com> <1717681551.6181319.1576079589676@mail.yahoo.com> <047701d5b046$0e3548b0$2a9fda10$@rr.com> Message-ID: <006501d5b090$724dfaf0$56e9f0d0$@sympatico.ca> What a great photo! I have often wondered about the space between the distance piece and the hub, now I have a good image ? thanks. Michael, as I suggested in a reply long ago (I think in response to you when you started on this), I do mine as David Nock suggested with no grease, as the grease makes it more difficult to detect play when you are setting it up. However, I do put a little light oil (sometimes even WD40 on the bearings as I just cannot bring myself to assemble and spin them dry. Cheers - Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Byers Sent: December-11-19 12:12 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant That is the edge of the inner race of the outer bearing. I?ve attached another illustration that might add some understanding. Steve From: Michael MacLean [mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net] Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 10:53 AM To: Max Byers Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant OK, I see where the shims go in your cutaway illustration, but what is that thickness of material behind the tabbed washer and outside of the outer bearing? Mike M On Wednesday, December 11, 2019, 4:37:07 AM PST, Max Byers wrote: Mike, I don't know if your installation is like a BJ8, but the shim thickness in my BJ8 is 0.047. Make sure your assembly is like the attachment. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Haskell Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2019 5:19 AM To: Michael MacLean; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wednesday Rant Mike, Yes, the factory parts list I have (AKD3523 shows the shims between the outer bearing and the tabbed washer. A previous owner drew an arrow showing the correct location. The shims go between the distance piece and the outer bearing. I've only done the shims on a few Healeys, but I've never seen that many shims required. Less than 0.060" thickness required. Can you send some photos of the hardware? Are the parts from a later BJ8, or earlier 3000 (different outer bearing, shims, distance piece, etc)? If the later BJ8, do you have the spacer that goes between the axle and the inner bearing? Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/11/19 4:42 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > I'd like to say fitting the splined hubs to the front spindles of > this disc brake conversion for my BN2 has got me seeing stars. I did > not take it apart, so I have no idea what to start with for the number > or size of shims to torque it down with 40-70 ft lbs and still have free > rotation but no end play. I started out with one .020 shim added to one > .030, added to one .010 added to one .005 and one .003 shim. A total > of 5 shims. The hub locks up at 40 ft lbs of torque on the nut, so I > added an identical stack on top of the first five shims. We are talking > .136 thickness in shims total and it still locks up at 40 ft lbs. This > is where I stopped at about midnight last night. I had enough for > tonight. I am going back after it tomorrow, but I am running out of > shims. I have to order more to do the passenger side. Nobody told me > how many shims I might need when putting this together with all new > parts and never having disassembled it in the first place. By the way, > the instructions that a few of you on the list gave me for soing this > job had me a little confuse. The illustration of the two bearings, > distance piece, shims, tabbed washer and castellated nut assembled > without the splined hub for illustration purposes has an arrow at the > bottom of the illustration pointed at the surfaces between the distance > piece and the inside of the out bearing race. It says 12 shims here! > You can clearly see in the picture the shims directly behind the tabbed > washer. I started saying bad words when I saw that. I still have at > least two of every size shim left, but I ma not sure even that will be > enough. I can tell you one thing, if I ever have to turn the rotors > again in the future, you can damn bet they will be turned in place. > There, I feel better now. (Not really!) > Mie MacLean > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sbyers at ec.rr.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Wed Dec 11 19:17:02 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 18:17:02 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Another top bow question - 2 seater Message-ID: The ends of the legs are threaded. The Robbins section of my Moss catalogue says "the legs had adjusting screws to adjust the tension". Would these have been cap screws or pan head screws or something unusual? Again, the Moss catalogue does not show these screws. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Wed Dec 11 19:33:49 2019 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 02:33:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Another top bow question - 2 seater In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I am using a bolt not a screw to give a flat surface for the adjustment on my BN7. The top when attached/hooked to the windshield posts leaves about an eighth inch air gap in the middle of the windshield. I have tried many ways to adjust the frame to fit using the adjusting bolts but have given up and seal it gap with black duct tape when I go for drives with the top up. I untalented it when the drive is over. Regards, Richard of KY BN7 440 > On Dec 11, 2019, at 20:17, richard mayor wrote: > > ? > The ends of the legs are threaded. The Robbins section of my Moss catalogue says "the legs had adjusting screws to adjust the tension". Would these have been cap screws or pan head screws or something unusual? Again, the Moss catalogue does not show these screws. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com > From john at jtkarowe.com.au Wed Dec 11 19:41:05 2019 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 12:41:05 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Another top bow question - 2 seater In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002701d5b095$9a8b8c30$cfa2a490$@com.au> My BT7 has the adjusting screws which I assume would be the same as the BN7. I suppose you would describe them as a pan head bolt (round, no flat sides) with a straight slit for a screwdriver across the face. Sorry, but it too hot to think of a better description. (36degrees C, 92 degrees F) John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Thursday, 12 December 2019 12:17 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Another top bow question - 2 seater The ends of the legs are threaded. The Robbins section of my Moss catalogue says "the legs had adjusting screws to adjust the tension". Would these have been cap screws or pan head screws or something unusual? Again, the Moss catalogue does not show these screws. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Wed Dec 11 19:45:39 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 02:45:39 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Another top bow question - 2 seater In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard, Yes the legs are threaded and while it says there are screws there they are really bolts, ?? with a nut tight to the frame when adjusted so that the bolts do not move in or out. I would not count on a Moss catalogue when doing a restoration, a Parts Manual is really a must as well as the Concours Guide, whether or not you want to do your car to Concours. In this instance the bolts are shown in the parts catalogue, in the drawing of the top but there are no parts number for them, and there are a fair number of items like that in any of the parts catalogue for the Austin-Healey, Another one on the BN6/BN7 is the round black cover that is snapped in place underneath the forward part of the trunk hinges, the part is not shown anywhere in any of the parts manual. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: richard mayor Sent: December 11, 2019 8:17 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Another top bow question - 2 seater The ends of the legs are threaded. The Robbins section of my Moss catalogue says "the legs had adjusting screws to adjust the tension". Would these have been cap screws or pan head screws or something unusual? Again, the Moss catalogue does not show these screws. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Wed Dec 11 20:05:53 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Wed, 11 Dec 2019 19:05:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help Message-ID: The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. [image: DSCN4470 (1).jpg] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4470 (1).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2341455 bytes Desc: not available URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Wed Dec 11 20:25:27 2019 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 03:25:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Another top bow question - 2 seater In-Reply-To: <002701d5b095$9a8b8c30$cfa2a490$@com.au> References: <002701d5b095$9a8b8c30$cfa2a490$@com.au> Message-ID: I used some six sided bolts I found in my miscellaneous parts box as nothing was there when I bought the frame from a prior owner. Never looked to see what should have been used as my car is a driver and I rarely use the soft top and side screens. It is a PITA to set up. Regards, Richard C On Dec 11, 2019, at 20:41, John Rowe wrote: ? My BT7 has the adjusting screws which I assume would be the same as the BN7. I suppose you would describe them as a pan head bolt (round, no flat sides) with a straight slit for a screwdriver across the face. Sorry, but it too hot to think of a better description. (36degrees C, 92 degrees F) John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Thursday, 12 December 2019 12:17 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Another top bow question - 2 seater The ends of the legs are threaded. The Robbins section of my Moss catalogue says "the legs had adjusting screws to adjust the tension". Would these have been cap screws or pan head screws or something unusual? Again, the Moss catalogue does not show these screws. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Wed Dec 11 20:34:49 2019 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 03:34:49 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help Message-ID: Are those insulated fuel lines or just newer /modern fuel lines? Mine are metal lines and I suffer vapor lock in the summer. They run over the manifold not outside like yours. Your picture gave me several good ideas! Thanks Regards, Richard Of KY BN7 440 > On Dec 11, 2019, at 21:13, richard mayor wrote: > > ?The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > [DSCN4470 (1).jpg] > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com > From coudesluijs at chello.nl Thu Dec 12 00:35:33 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 08:35:33 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are needed. To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for driving. Kees Oudesluijs Op 12-12-2019 om 04:05 schreef richard mayor: > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go > into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > DSCN4470 (1).jpg > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4470 (1).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2341455 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 02:25:47 2019 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 09:25:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: That?s very tidy Richard. What engine are you using? Is it a 240Z? Alan - from my iPad > On 12 Dec 2019, at 03:28, richard mayor wrote: > > ? > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > From flyhihealey at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 05:33:36 2019 From: flyhihealey at gmail.com (Warren) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 07:33:36 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey67 in Medina Ohio Message-ID: <5df233a1.1c69fb81.e584c.be3c@mx.google.com> An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 07:07:21 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 06:07:21 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Top bows question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just re read this. It did not convey what I meant to say. "Cobbled" was said tongue in cheek. Your fabrication skills are impressive. I wanted folks to know it was a two seater, as their top bows are different than a four seater. No insult intended. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Wed, Dec 11, 2019, 3:28 PM i erbs wrote: > Sorry Richard > Your skills come without question. Said, fitmlywith tongue in cheek. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > 1959 Austin Healey BN4 > 1967 MGB > > On Wed, Dec 11, 2019, 3:26 PM richard mayor wrote: > >> Ira, Seriously?!?! I'm offended! I don't "cobble" anything >> together. There is nothing "cobbled together" in putting a two seater rear >> shroud on a BT7 - using a factory 2 seater shroud and the factory support >> brace. The shroud is a direct bolt on affair. I did not cut anything or >> modify anything other than to add the factory shroud support brace over the >> wheel arches. And even then, I did not weld it in. It is riveted so it can >> be easily undone. Here's a photo so the listers can judge for themselves >> if I "cobbled" it together. >> [image: DSCN4746.jpg] >> >> >> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 6:19 PM i erbs wrote: >> >>> What year is the body? Is this your cobbled together 2 seater? BT7 had a >>> bent and straight legged top bow. Bent leg fit in front holes, the straight >>> in back on four seaters >>> Never seen plastic inserts. >>> >>> Ira Erbs >>> Portland,OR >>> 1959 Austin Healey BN4 >>> 1967 MGB >>> >>> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019, 6:03 PM richard mayor >>> wrote: >>> >>>> I'm getting ready to have a new top installed and making sure I have >>>> all the right bits. The top bow legs fit into sockets. I read somewhere >>>> that the factory used plastic sleeves in the sockets. Moss does not show >>>> any sleeves in their catalogue. The sockets are a larger than the top bow >>>> legs so It makes sense to me to find something that will take up a bit of >>>> that slop. Any suggestions? >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >>>> >>>> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4746.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1827257 bytes Desc: not available URL: From warthodson at aol.com Thu Dec 12 08:09:35 2019 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 15:09:35 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help References: <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106@mail.yahoo.com> "Concourse" is shorthand for a car that is restored or maintained in close to original specifications. Calling that bullshit is bullshit. It does not have anything to do with the owner's decision to drive it or trailer it. In the US a concours car can receive points for driving to the event. I agree that I enjoy the fun of driving my Healey too much to want to trailer it to an event. In my experience, the cars with the cars that most often have issues on a long road trip are the ones that have poorly executed owner installed changes/modifications/improvements or are simply not well maintained. Cars that are well restored & generally adhere to original specifications rarely have issues.? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Kees Oudesluijs To: healeys Sent: Thu, Dec 12, 2019 2:10 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are needed. To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for driving. Kees Oudesluijs -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 08:22:30 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:22:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hear, hear Gary. BRAVO!! M On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 10:09 AM warthodson--- via Healeys, < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > "Concourse" is shorthand for a car that is restored or maintained in close > to original specifications. Calling that bullshit is bullshit. It does not > have anything to do with the owner's decision to drive it or trailer it. In > the US a concours car can receive points for driving to the event. I agree > that I enjoy the fun of driving my Healey too much to want to trailer it to > an event. In my experience, the cars with the cars that most often have > issues on a long road trip are the ones that have poorly executed owner > installed changes/modifications/improvements or are simply not well > maintained. Cars that are well restored & generally adhere to original > specifications rarely have issues. > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: Kees Oudesluijs > To: healeys > Sent: Thu, Dec 12, 2019 2:10 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help > > That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some air > filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of severe fire > risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff is bullshit. Use > them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and enjoy them. We have > friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver and rebuild the car every > so often if and when extensive repairs are needed. > To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for > driving. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 08:33:03 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:33:03 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Top bows question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: If Richard's fabrication skills are anything like his race driving skills the work will be very impressive. M On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 9:17 AM i erbs, wrote: > Just re read this. It did not convey what I meant to say. "Cobbled" was > said tongue in cheek. Your fabrication skills are impressive. I wanted > folks to know it was a two seater, as their top bows are different than a > four seater. No insult intended. > > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > 1959 Austin Healey BN4 > 1967 MGB > > On Wed, Dec 11, 2019, 3:28 PM i erbs wrote: > >> Sorry Richard >> Your skills come without question. Said, fitmlywith tongue in cheek. >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> 1959 Austin Healey BN4 >> 1967 MGB >> >> On Wed, Dec 11, 2019, 3:26 PM richard mayor >> wrote: >> >>> Ira, Seriously?!?! I'm offended! I don't "cobble" anything >>> together. There is nothing "cobbled together" in putting a two seater rear >>> shroud on a BT7 - using a factory 2 seater shroud and the factory support >>> brace. The shroud is a direct bolt on affair. I did not cut anything or >>> modify anything other than to add the factory shroud support brace over the >>> wheel arches. And even then, I did not weld it in. It is riveted so it can >>> be easily undone. Here's a photo so the listers can judge for themselves >>> if I "cobbled" it together. >>> [image: DSCN4746.jpg] >>> >>> >>> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 6:19 PM i erbs wrote: >>> >>>> What year is the body? Is this your cobbled together 2 seater? BT7 had >>>> a bent and straight legged top bow. Bent leg fit in front holes, the >>>> straight in back on four seaters >>>> Never seen plastic inserts. >>>> >>>> Ira Erbs >>>> Portland,OR >>>> 1959 Austin Healey BN4 >>>> 1967 MGB >>>> >>>> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019, 6:03 PM richard mayor >>>> wrote: >>>> >>>>> I'm getting ready to have a new top installed and making sure I have >>>>> all the right bits. The top bow legs fit into sockets. I read somewhere >>>>> that the factory used plastic sleeves in the sockets. Moss does not show >>>>> any sleeves in their catalogue. The sockets are a larger than the top bow >>>>> legs so It makes sense to me to find something that will take up a bit of >>>>> that slop. Any suggestions? >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4746.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1827257 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Dec 12 08:42:19 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 07:42:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard, Interesting intake manifold; did you fab the runners yourself?? Did you do any flow bench testing? Cheers, Bob On 12/11/2019 7:05 PM, richard mayor wrote: > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go > into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > DSCN4470 (1).jpg > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4470 (1).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2341455 bytes Desc: not available URL: From jnew at hazelden.ca Thu Dec 12 08:46:40 2019 From: jnew at hazelden.ca (John P. New) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:46:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Concours Registry and Guidelines (was: Thanks for all the help) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <23181723.p4Ng9gmrm3@johnpc> Kees, Your statement, "All this concourse stuff is bullshit," really makes me angry. I have been a member of this list for almost twenty years and I have seen you write some really inaccurate things about Healeys but this takes the cake. Indeed, even the late Richard Chrysler once told you on this list to keep your uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. The Concours Guidelines (and *please* spell concours properly) is one of the few secondary sources of information that can help in the preservation and restoration of an Austin-Healey. I would say that in many ways it is THE BEST secondary source because it is updated annually as new information is gathered. No publication is without errors, so even great books by such authors as Clausager or Moment & Anderson do contain factual inaccuracies that may mislead a restoration. (To be fair to Moment & Anderson, they keep a list of errata for their book, available for the asking) If you think Concours is about trailer queens and awards, then you just have no clue why the organization exists. To quote the very first sentence of the Austin-Healey Concours Registry Organization, Policies and Inspection Guidelines, "The Austin-Healey Concours Registry was created by members from a number of Austin-Healey clubs in North America to assist owners in restoring their cars to original standards and to encourage the restoration and maintenance of original cars." This sums up the entire mission of the Registry. Please note that the word "bullshit" does not appear there nor anywhere else in the publication. So, following in the footsteps of Richard Chrysler: Kees, please keep your baseless, uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. John P. New London, Ontario, Canada On Thursday, December 12, 2019 2:35:33 AM EST Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some > air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of > severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff > is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and > enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver > and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are > needed. > > To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for driving. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 12-12-2019 om 04:05 schreef richard mayor: > > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go > > into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > > > DSCN4470 (1).jpg > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Thu Dec 12 08:51:33 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 15:51:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Kees, When I suggested, in an earlier email, that an owner should have a Parts Manual at the ready along with a Concours Guide, rather than a Moss catalogue alone, it was meant to let an owner know that one would be able to determine how things fit together much better with using these two resource books rather than a catalogue from a firm that sells parts. The Concours Guide has been carefully put together by dedicated Healey enthusiasts that have done an extensive amount of research prior to actually confirming how a part fitted and on what model it was fitted on etc. There will always be extreme in both the Concours crowd and the ones that will modify their car so that it is an Austin-Healey in name only. The majority of the owners are somewhere in between. One interesting fact is that at the most recent AHCA Conclave in Deadwood, South Dakota, in September 2019, there was only one car entered for Concours Judging and the owner drove it from his residence some 400 miles away, had it judged, received a Gold level and drove it back home. I agree that all Austin-Healeys are cars and they are meant to be driven and the more you drive them, the better they run and he more enjoyment you get from them. Cheers, Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Kees Oudesluijs Sent: December 12, 2019 1:57 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are needed. To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for driving. Kees Oudesluijs Op 12-12-2019 om 04:05 schreef richard mayor: The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. [cid:image002.jpg at 01D5B0D1.BE9755A0] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 4A0564202AEE4A379B7A6DC71F509C5B.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 71619 bytes Desc: 4A0564202AEE4A379B7A6DC71F509C5B.jpg URL: From Bispmotala at hotmail.com Thu Dec 12 08:54:34 2019 From: Bispmotala at hotmail.com (Ulla &Sven Ordell) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 15:54:34 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: References: <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Deaer all I am with Kees on this, but I genuinely think that there is a great difference between car enthusiasts in the USA and in Europe (and other places). Use your property as you wish. Kind regards Sven in Sweden Fr?n: Healeys F?r Michael Salter Skickat: den 12 december 2019 16:23 Till: warthodson at aol.com Kopia: healeys at autox.team.net ?mne: Re: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help Hear, hear Gary. BRAVO!! M On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 10:09 AM warthodson--- via Healeys, > wrote: "Concourse" is shorthand for a car that is restored or maintained in close to original specifications. Calling that bullshit is bullshit. It does not have anything to do with the owner's decision to drive it or trailer it. In the US a concours car can receive points for driving to the event. I agree that I enjoy the fun of driving my Healey too much to want to trailer it to an event. In my experience, the cars with the cars that most often have issues on a long road trip are the ones that have poorly executed owner installed changes/modifications/improvements or are simply not well maintained. Cars that are well restored & generally adhere to original specifications rarely have issues. Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Kees Oudesluijs > To: healeys > Sent: Thu, Dec 12, 2019 2:10 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are needed. To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for driving. Kees Oudesluijs _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Dec 12 09:12:37 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 16:12:37 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash References: <1164468523.12606198.1576167158029.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1164468523.12606198.1576167158029@mail.yahoo.com> This is what you see at the center of the car looking towards the firewall.? This is where the hole in the dash is located.? Am I missing something?? The bracket in the center of the picture is set way back from the dash.? Am I missing another bracket?Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20191212_080647.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4482728 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Dec 12 09:35:10 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 08:35:10 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey67 in Medina Ohio In-Reply-To: <5df233a1.1c69fb81.e584c.be3c@mx.google.com> References: <5df233a1.1c69fb81.e584c.be3c@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <7bfa19d7-c4ca-fcb7-a687-5827bcb518be@comcast.net> I'm not familiar with the car, but the ad smells a bit funny to me. The interior doesn't look a whole lot better than my BJ8 with 205K miles--mine still has its ashtray--and what's with the photo of the gunky (unknown) 4-cyl and an earlier car's interior??? It does appear to have the same 'BMC' radio mine has, though. Bob On 12/12/2019 4:33 AM, Warren wrote: > > Any one familiar with this car? > > > HBJ8L40232????????? Steve ? > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-3000/293358763149?_mwBanner=1&ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F0%2F0%2F0%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fulk%252Fitm%252F293358763149%26rvr_id%3D0%26rvr_ts%3Dfa10dc9316e0a4d129126253fff0fb7d&ul_noapp=true&pageci=e44844ad-c755-4e0c-8249-a956bbb93a4d > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > WD? ?67 BJ8 > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Dec 12 09:41:29 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 08:41:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <08cb7124-3d7f-4b89-568e-917834e2c7c2@comcast.net> All that and, of course, it's 'concours,' not 'concourse:' https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=concourse Us pedants are a lonely bunch. Bob On 12/12/2019 7:09 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > "Concourse" is shorthand for a car that is restored or maintained in > close to original specifications. Calling that bullshit is bullshit. > It does not have anything to do with the owner's decision to drive it > or trailer it. In the US a concours car can receive points for driving > to the event. I agree that I enjoy the fun of driving my Healey too > much to want to trailer it to an event. In my experience, the cars > with the cars that most often have issues on a long road trip are the > ones that have poorly executed owner installed > changes/modifications/improvements or are simply not well maintained. > Cars that are well restored & generally adhere to original > specifications rarely have issues. > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: Kees Oudesluijs > To: healeys > Sent: Thu, Dec 12, 2019 2:10 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help > > That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some > air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of > severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff > is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and > enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver > and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are > needed. > To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for > driving. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 10:12:28 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 09:12:28 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Top bows question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: ? Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 7:31 AM Michael Salter wrote: > If Richard's fabrication skills are anything like his race driving skills > the work will be very impressive. > > M > > On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 9:17 AM i erbs, wrote: > >> Just re read this. It did not convey what I meant to say. "Cobbled" was >> said tongue in cheek. Your fabrication skills are impressive. I wanted >> folks to know it was a two seater, as their top bows are different than a >> four seater. No insult intended. >> >> Ira Erbs >> Portland,OR >> 1959 Austin Healey BN4 >> 1967 MGB >> >> On Wed, Dec 11, 2019, 3:28 PM i erbs wrote: >> >>> Sorry Richard >>> Your skills come without question. Said, fitmlywith tongue in cheek. >>> >>> Ira Erbs >>> Portland,OR >>> 1959 Austin Healey BN4 >>> 1967 MGB >>> >>> On Wed, Dec 11, 2019, 3:26 PM richard mayor >>> wrote: >>> >>>> Ira, Seriously?!?! I'm offended! I don't "cobble" anything >>>> together. There is nothing "cobbled together" in putting a two seater rear >>>> shroud on a BT7 - using a factory 2 seater shroud and the factory support >>>> brace. The shroud is a direct bolt on affair. I did not cut anything or >>>> modify anything other than to add the factory shroud support brace over the >>>> wheel arches. And even then, I did not weld it in. It is riveted so it can >>>> be easily undone. Here's a photo so the listers can judge for themselves >>>> if I "cobbled" it together. >>>> [image: DSCN4746.jpg] >>>> >>>> >>>> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019 at 6:19 PM i erbs wrote: >>>> >>>>> What year is the body? Is this your cobbled together 2 seater? BT7 had >>>>> a bent and straight legged top bow. Bent leg fit in front holes, the >>>>> straight in back on four seaters >>>>> Never seen plastic inserts. >>>>> >>>>> Ira Erbs >>>>> Portland,OR >>>>> 1959 Austin Healey BN4 >>>>> 1967 MGB >>>>> >>>>> On Tue, Dec 10, 2019, 6:03 PM richard mayor >>>>> wrote: >>>>> >>>>>> I'm getting ready to have a new top installed and making sure I have >>>>>> all the right bits. The top bow legs fit into sockets. I read somewhere >>>>>> that the factory used plastic sleeves in the sockets. Moss does not show >>>>>> any sleeves in their catalogue. The sockets are a larger than the top bow >>>>>> legs so It makes sense to me to find something that will take up a bit of >>>>>> that slop. Any suggestions? >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>>> >>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>>> >>>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>>>>> >>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: >>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4746.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1827257 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 10:33:30 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 09:33:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash In-Reply-To: <1164468523.12606198.1576167158029@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1164468523.12606198.1576167158029.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1164468523.12606198.1576167158029@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <390069AA8A1147979B5D9DF2E3620B27@DavidNockHP> That bracket is for th hood pull rod. You will need another bracket that is attached by the two screws form the rear view mirror then to the center of the dash. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael MacLean Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2019 8:12 AM To: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash This is what you see at the center of the car looking towards the firewall. This is where the hole in the dash is located. Am I missing something? The bracket in the center of the picture is set way back from the dash. Am I missing another bracket? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20191212_080647.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4482728 bytes Desc: not available URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Thu Dec 12 10:40:52 2019 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 09:40:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: As I recall, at a west coast meet many years ago, Donald looked at the Concours cars and said, in effect, the cars did not look like that when they left the dealers. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 220,998 miles ----- Original Message ----- From: warthodson--- via Healeys To: coudesluijs at chello.nl ; healeys at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2019 7:09 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help "Concourse" is shorthand for a car that is restored or maintained in close to original specifications...... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Dec 12 10:49:12 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 17:49:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash In-Reply-To: <390069AA8A1147979B5D9DF2E3620B27@DavidNockHP> References: <1164468523.12606198.1576167158029.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1164468523.12606198.1576167158029@mail.yahoo.com> <390069AA8A1147979B5D9DF2E3620B27@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: <1989473589.6758231.1576172953672@mail.yahoo.com> Thank you David.M On Thursday, December 12, 2019, 9:34:08 AM PST, David Nock wrote: That bracket is for th hood pull rod. You will need another bracket that is attached by the two screws form the rear view mirror then to the center of the dash.??David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org ?From: Michael MacLean Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2019 8:12 AMTo: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hole in the Dash? This is what you see at the center of the car looking towards the firewall.? This is where the hole in the dash is located.? Am I missing something?? The bracket in the center of the picture is set way back from the dash.? Am I missing another bracket? Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 20191212_080647.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 4482728 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Dec 12 11:09:34 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 10:09:34 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] DWM Uprated Steering Box Message-ID: <055d5714-0072-d5ff-3aea-42748514c757@comcast.net> I've got one sitting on the bench (it's too cold, I'm intimidated by R&Ring the grill, the trafficator is a PITA, blah, blah, blah). I know one Lister has installed one--sorry, can't remember who off the top-of-my-head--but for all that have seen these I have a question: the 'tube' the steering shaft goes through has a bunch of fairly deep scratches on it, has anyone else seen this?? These are scratches in the metal that have been painted over; they look to be machining scratches as they run the length of the tube, though not continuously, and are slightly spiral shaped (I'll get a photo tomorrow if anyone is curious).? They don't bother me, as they won't be seen, but I have to wonder how they got there. Bob From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Dec 12 11:30:42 2019 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 13:30:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey67 in Medina Ohio In-Reply-To: <5df233a1.1c69fb81.e584c.be3c@mx.google.com> References: <5df233a1.1c69fb81.e584c.be3c@mx.google.com> Message-ID: <05ba01d5b11a$447c23b0$cd746b10$@rr.com> Hi, Warren ? The seller had 40232 on eBay in August 2019. The BJ8 Registry records two previous owners in Ohio and the original owner in Tennessee. There is a gap in the recorded history from the original to the second owner (no name or location), who bought the car in 1979. The third owner is unknown. The earliest Ohio owner recorded is noted as the 4th owner. He sold the car in 2001 to the second recorded Ohio owner. The seller is, I believe, someone who advertises in Healey Marque. The BMIHT certificate lists the body number with too many digits (851850). The body plate is original and has the correct number for chassis 40232 (85150). I haven?t seen the VIN or engine serial number plates so I do not know if the plates are original or belong to the car. Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Warren Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2019 7:34 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Healey67 in Medina Ohio Any one familiar with this car? HBJ8L40232 Steve ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-3000/293358763149?_mwBanner=1 &ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F0%2F0%2F0%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fulk%252Fitm%252F293358763149%26rvr_id%3D0%26rvr_ts%3Dfa10dc9316e0a4d129126253fff0fb7d&ul_noapp=true&pageci=e44844ad-c755-4e0c-8249-a956bbb93a4d Sent from Mail for Windows 10 WD 67 BJ8 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sbyers at ec.rr.com Thu Dec 12 11:43:27 2019 From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 13:43:27 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Healey67 in Medina Ohio In-Reply-To: <5E08744D-1D37-46A1-9061-2ECD87533E1E@aol.com> References: <5df233a1.1c69fb81.e584c.be3c@mx.google.com> <5E08744D-1D37-46A1-9061-2ECD87533E1E@aol.com> Message-ID: <060401d5b11c$0cd4a200$267de600$@rr.com> Yes, and there is a photo of a TR3 engine bay snuck in there, too. As I mentioned, the body plate is original to chassis 40232, but the VIN and engine serial plates are not shown so no telling if they are original and correct or not. The original color of 40232 was Colorado Red. Do I see traces of BRG on the bottom of the floors and under the red paint in the undercarriage photos? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC USA From: Ken Fleming [mailto:ahmg at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2019 7:47 AM To: Warren Cc: Steve Byers Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey67 in Medina Ohio Proceed cautiously as picture 7 is not same car . Appears to be BJ7 or BT7. Just quick observation. Ken Sent from my iPhone On Dec 12, 2019, at 7:34 AM, Warren wrote: ? Any one familiar with this car? HBJ8L40232 Steve ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-3000/293358763149?_mwBanner=1 &ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F0%2F0%2F0%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fulk%252Fitm%252F293358763149%26rvr_id%3D0%26rvr_ts%3Dfa10dc9316e0a4d129126253fff0fb7d&ul_noapp=true&pageci=e44844ad-c755-4e0c-8249-a956bbb93a4d Sent from Mail for Windows 10 WD 67 BJ8 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ronfineesq at earthlink.net Thu Dec 12 12:16:19 2019 From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 11:16:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] DWM Uprated Steering Box In-Reply-To: <055d5714-0072-d5ff-3aea-42748514c757@comcast.net> References: <055d5714-0072-d5ff-3aea-42748514c757@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9181BE5B3EB8447788F50CDA7952C1F3@Inspiron660> Hi Bob, I purchased a new DWM steering box earlier this year and communicated with you about my complaints. In my opinion, the replaced new box is still not working correctly and I am not happy but not willing to spend more time on it right now. I would suggest to you that the scratches might be from someone earlier removing that box by twisting it as they pulled it out the front of the car. There are two metal plates on the firewall and a metal bracket and clamp behind the dash, that if not removed first, might have scratched the tube. Good Luck with your replacement. I am happy to offer suggestions from my experience from removing and replacing this part multiple times over the years. Ron Fine 61BN7 ronfineesq at earthlink.net -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2019 10:09 AM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] DWM Uprated Steering Box I've got one sitting on the bench (it's too cold, I'm intimidated by R&Ring the grill, the trafficator is a PITA, blah, blah, blah). I know one Lister has installed one--sorry, can't remember who off the top-of-my-head--but for all that have seen these I have a question: the 'tube' the steering shaft goes through has a bunch of fairly deep scratches on it, has anyone else seen this? These are scratches in the metal that have been painted over; they look to be machining scratches as they run the length of the tube, though not continuously, and are slightly spiral shaped (I'll get a photo tomorrow if anyone is curious). They don't bother me, as they won't be seen, but I have to wonder how they got there. Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Dec 12 12:41:52 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 11:41:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] DWM Uprated Steering Box In-Reply-To: <9181BE5B3EB8447788F50CDA7952C1F3@Inspiron660> References: <055d5714-0072-d5ff-3aea-42748514c757@comcast.net> <9181BE5B3EB8447788F50CDA7952C1F3@Inspiron660> Message-ID: <066f7baa-7187-c01b-06a3-db6db4c165c0@comcast.net> Thanks, Ron.? It seems reasonable that DWM might have re-used tubes from stock boxes that they replaced with their box (I think they do some repair work themselves).? I think the tube is only soldered-in.? The box itself looks pristine, but who knows. I'm disappointed to hear you are not happy with the box; it's a real pain to R&R I know.? At this point, I'm not inclined to ship it back to England and will probably go ahead with the installation when I mine some motivation (note Bitcoin reference ;).? Steve G has installed a DWM worm only, and reports there is still some play at the steering wheel; as? far as I can tell from playing with it on the bench the new box seems to have little or no play but, of course, things could be different when installed. Jeremy Welch himself called and admonished me that the box is just fine--he wanted to nip any negative reports 'in the bud'--so we shall see. Bob On 12/12/2019 11:16 AM, Ron Fine wrote: > Hi Bob, > > I purchased a new DWM steering box earlier this year and communicated > with you about my complaints.? In my opinion, the replaced new box is > still not working correctly and I am not happy but not willing to > spend more time on it right now. > > I would suggest to you that the scratches might be from someone > earlier removing that box by twisting it as they pulled it out the > front of the car. There are two metal plates on the firewall and a > metal bracket and clamp behind the dash, that if not removed first, > might have scratched the tube. > > Good Luck with your replacement.? I am happy to offer suggestions from > my experience from removing and replacing this part multiple times > over the years. > > Ron Fine > 61BN7 > ronfineesq at earthlink.net > > > -----Original Message----- From: Bob Spidell > Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2019 10:09 AM > To: Healeys > Subject: [Healeys] DWM Uprated Steering Box > > I've got one sitting on the bench (it's too cold, I'm intimidated by > R&Ring the grill, the trafficator is a PITA, blah, blah, blah). I know > one Lister has installed one--sorry, can't remember who off the > top-of-my-head--but for all that have seen these I have a question: the > 'tube' the steering shaft goes through has a bunch of fairly deep > scratches on it, has anyone else seen this?? These are scratches in the > metal that have been painted over; they look to be machining scratches > as they run the length of the tube, though not continuously, and are > slightly spiral shaped (I'll get a photo tomorrow if anyone is > curious).? They don't bother me, as they won't be seen, but I have to > wonder how they got there. > > Bob > > > From kimobriske at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 14:12:10 2019 From: kimobriske at gmail.com (Kimo Briske) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 11:12:10 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1110204996.7320982.1576163375106@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I liked the idea of keeping my car original as possible so as to experience [relive] the feeling of driving in the 60's when the car was new. This is best accomplished on 2 lane back roads, not freeways or in the city. Stopping in a small town and hearing kids say, " look at the car with bicycle wheels" is a delight. Thanks DMH for your creation ! Kimo On Thu, Dec 12, 2019 at 5:10 AM warthodson--- via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > "Concourse" is shorthand for a car that is restored or maintained in close > to original specifications. Calling that bullshit is bullshit. It does not > have anything to do with the owner's decision to drive it or trailer it. In > the US a concours car can receive points for driving to the event. I agree > that I enjoy the fun of driving my Healey too much to want to trailer it to > an event. In my experience, the cars with the cars that most often have > issues on a long road trip are the ones that have poorly executed owner > installed changes/modifications/improvements or are simply not well > maintained. Cars that are well restored & generally adhere to original > specifications rarely have issues. > Gary Hodson > > -----Original Message----- > From: Kees Oudesluijs > To: healeys > Sent: Thu, Dec 12, 2019 2:10 am > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help > > That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some air > filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of severe fire > risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff is bullshit. Use > them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and enjoy them. We have > friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver and rebuild the car every > so often if and when extensive repairs are needed. > To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for > driving. > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/kimobriske at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Dec 12 14:43:27 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 13:43:27 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Healey67 in Medina Ohio In-Reply-To: <060401d5b11c$0cd4a200$267de600$@rr.com> References: <5df233a1.1c69fb81.e584c.be3c@mx.google.com> <5E08744D-1D37-46A1-9061-2ECD87533E1E@aol.com> <060401d5b11c$0cd4a200$267de600$@rr.com> Message-ID: <883b0d85-6b3f-b966-4a9b-ec15e6434289@comcast.net> re: "Do I see traces of BRG on the bottom of the floors and under the red paint in the undercarriage photos?" Nothing 'jumped out' at me; the rust on the chassis looks original.? Not surprising, I guess, on a Midwestern car; but it appears the '21,000' miles was all done in the winter.? My BJ8's bottom looks better than this one's, but AFAIK it spent its life in California (it has original CA plates). What struck me is the shoddy shape of the interior (photo of my car's attached).? Looks like someone took the console out--you have to pull the radio to get it out--and forgot to put the radio knobs and ashtray back? in and secure the console to the tunnel. Engine bay looks good--except for the rust on the fluid reservoir and non-original plug wires--and the intake manifold appears to have original green paint (which usually either flakes off or gets removed at overhaul).? Paint looks good; no 'spurs' often seen after dogleg repairs. Bob On 12/12/2019 10:43 AM, Max Byers wrote: > > Yes, and there is a? photo of a TR3 engine bay snuck in there, too. > > As I mentioned, the body plate is original to chassis 40232, but the > VIN and engine serial plates are not shown so no telling if they are > original and correct or not.? The original color of 40232 was Colorado > Red.? Do I see traces of BRG on the bottom of the floors and under the > red paint in the undercarriage photos? > > Steve Byers > > HBJ8L/36666 > > BJ8 Registry > > AHCA Delegate at Large > > Havelock, NC USA > > *From:*Ken Fleming [mailto:ahmg at aol.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, December 12, 2019 7:47 AM > *To:* Warren > *Cc:* Steve Byers > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Healey67 in Medina Ohio > > Proceed cautiously as picture 7 is not same car . Appears to be BJ7 or > BT7. > > Just quick observation. > > Ken > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Dec 12, 2019, at 7:34 AM, Warren wrote: > > ? > > Any one familiar with this car? > > > HBJ8L40232????????? Steve ? > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Austin-Healey-3000-3000/293358763149?_mwBanner=1&ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F0%2F0%2F0%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fulk%252Fitm%252F293358763149%26rvr_id%3D0%26rvr_ts%3Dfa10dc9316e0a4d129126253fff0fb7d&ul_noapp=true&pageci=e44844ad-c755-4e0c-8249-a956bbb93a4d > > Sent from Mail > for Windows 10 > > WD? ?67 BJ8 > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: ShiftKnob.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 673735 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 17:09:20 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 19:09:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Concours Registry and Guidelines (was: Thanks for all the help) In-Reply-To: <23181723.p4Ng9gmrm3@johnpc> References: <23181723.p4Ng9gmrm3@johnpc> Message-ID: John, I could not agree with more with everything you have said. Concours may not be for everyone but to characterize it as "bullshit" is a profound insult to the dozens of dedicated individuals who believe in the accurate preservation of the marque. For years I found Kees contributions to this list to be consistently simplistic and generic and was very gratified to find that Gmail provides an easy way to block his drivel. M On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 11:27 AM John P. New, wrote: > Kees, > > Your statement, "All this concourse stuff is bullshit," really makes me > angry. > > I have been a member of this list for almost twenty years and I have seen > you write some really inaccurate things about Healeys but this takes the > cake. Indeed, even the late Richard Chrysler once told you on this list to > keep your uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. > > The Concours Guidelines (and *please* spell concours properly) is one of > the few secondary sources of information that can help in the preservation > and restoration of an Austin-Healey. I would say that in many ways it is > THE BEST secondary source because it is updated annually as new information > is gathered. No publication is without errors, so even great books by such > authors as Clausager or Moment & Anderson do contain factual inaccuracies > that may mislead a restoration. (To be fair to Moment & Anderson, they keep > a list of errata for their book, available for the asking) > > If you think Concours is about trailer queens and awards, then you just > have no clue why the organization exists. To quote the very first sentence > of the Austin-Healey Concours Registry Organization, Policies and > Inspection Guidelines, > > "The Austin-Healey Concours Registry was created by members from a number > of Austin-Healey clubs in North America to assist owners in restoring their > cars to original standards and to encourage the restoration and maintenance > of original cars." > > This sums up the entire mission of the Registry. Please note that the word > "bullshit" does not appear there nor anywhere else in the publication. > > So, following in the footsteps of Richard Chrysler: Kees, please keep your > baseless, uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. > > John P. New > London, Ontario, Canada > > > On Thursday, December 12, 2019 2:35:33 AM EST Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some > > air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of > > severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff > > is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and > > enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver > > and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are > > needed. > > > > To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for > driving. > > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > > > > Op 12-12-2019 om 04:05 schreef richard mayor: > > > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go > > > into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > > > > > DSCN4470 (1).jpg > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 17:19:36 2019 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2019 00:19:36 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Concours Registry and Guidelines (was: Thanks for all the help) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I?m awake at sill o clock watching our General Election results so you are getting a response from a Brit at an unusual time. Just chiming in to agree strongly with Michael. The phrase ?consistently generic and simplistic? is absolutely correct. Cheers team. Alan - from my iPad > On 13 Dec 2019, at 00:07, Michael Salter wrote: > > ? > John, I could not agree with more with everything you have said. > Concours may not be for everyone but to characterize it as "bullshit" is a profound insult to the dozens of dedicated individuals who believe in the accurate preservation of the marque. > For years I found Kees contributions to this list to be consistently simplistic and generic and was very gratified to find that Gmail provides an easy way to block his drivel. > > M > >> On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 11:27 AM John P. New, wrote: >> Kees, >> >> Your statement, "All this concourse stuff is bullshit," really makes me angry. >> >> I have been a member of this list for almost twenty years and I have seen you write some really inaccurate things about Healeys but this takes the cake. Indeed, even the late Richard Chrysler once told you on this list to keep your uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. >> >> The Concours Guidelines (and *please* spell concours properly) is one of the few secondary sources of information that can help in the preservation and restoration of an Austin-Healey. I would say that in many ways it is THE BEST secondary source because it is updated annually as new information is gathered. No publication is without errors, so even great books by such authors as Clausager or Moment & Anderson do contain factual inaccuracies that may mislead a restoration. (To be fair to Moment & Anderson, they keep a list of errata for their book, available for the asking) >> >> If you think Concours is about trailer queens and awards, then you just have no clue why the organization exists. To quote the very first sentence of the Austin-Healey Concours Registry Organization, Policies and Inspection Guidelines, >> >> "The Austin-Healey Concours Registry was created by members from a number of Austin-Healey clubs in North America to assist owners in restoring their cars to original standards and to encourage the restoration and maintenance of original cars." >> >> This sums up the entire mission of the Registry. Please note that the word "bullshit" does not appear there nor anywhere else in the publication. >> >> So, following in the footsteps of Richard Chrysler: Kees, please keep your baseless, uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. >> >> John P. New >> London, Ontario, Canada >> >> >> On Thursday, December 12, 2019 2:35:33 AM EST Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >> > That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some >> > air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of >> > severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff >> > is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and >> > enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver >> > and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are >> > needed. >> > >> > To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for driving. >> > >> > Kees Oudesluijs >> > >> > >> > >> > Op 12-12-2019 om 04:05 schreef richard mayor: >> > > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go >> > > into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. >> > > >> > > DSCN4470 (1).jpg >> > > >> > > >> > > _______________________________________________ >> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > > >> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> > > >> > > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > > >> > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl >> > > >> > >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From alfuller194 at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 17:23:42 2019 From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 19:23:42 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Concours Registry and Guidelines (was: Thanks for all the help) In-Reply-To: References: <23181723.p4Ng9gmrm3@johnpc> Message-ID: <024a01d5b14b$93cd3360$bb679a20$@gmail.com> Michael and John: Thanks for expressing the sentiments others of us have!! My Healey is nowhere near concours, but I do really appreciate the efforts of those who help us understand what the cars are like when restored as they were when produced. Al Fuller From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2019 7:09 PM To: John P. New Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Registry and Guidelines (was: Thanks for all the help) John, I could not agree with more with everything you have said. Concours may not be for everyone but to characterize it as "bullshit" is a profound insult to the dozens of dedicated individuals who believe in the accurate preservation of the marque. For years I found Kees contributions to this list to be consistently simplistic and generic and was very gratified to find that Gmail provides an easy way to block his drivel. M On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 11:27 AM John P. New, > wrote: Kees, Your statement, "All this concourse stuff is bullshit," really makes me angry. I have been a member of this list for almost twenty years and I have seen you write some really inaccurate things about Healeys but this takes the cake. Indeed, even the late Richard Chrysler once told you on this list to keep your uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. The Concours Guidelines (and *please* spell concours properly) is one of the few secondary sources of information that can help in the preservation and restoration of an Austin-Healey. I would say that in many ways it is THE BEST secondary source because it is updated annually as new information is gathered. No publication is without errors, so even great books by such authors as Clausager or Moment & Anderson do contain factual inaccuracies that may mislead a restoration. (To be fair to Moment & Anderson, they keep a list of errata for their book, available for the asking) If you think Concours is about trailer queens and awards, then you just have no clue why the organization exists. To quote the very first sentence of the Austin-Healey Concours Registry Organization, Policies and Inspection Guidelines, "The Austin-Healey Concours Registry was created by members from a number of Austin-Healey clubs in North America to assist owners in restoring their cars to original standards and to encourage the restoration and maintenance of original cars." This sums up the entire mission of the Registry. Please note that the word "bullshit" does not appear there nor anywhere else in the publication. So, following in the footsteps of Richard Chrysler: Kees, please keep your baseless, uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. John P. New London, Ontario, Canada On Thursday, December 12, 2019 2:35:33 AM EST Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some > air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of > severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff > is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and > enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver > and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are > needed. > > To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for driving. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 12-12-2019 om 04:05 schreef richard mayor: > > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go > > into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > > > DSCN4470 (1).jpg > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 18:32:23 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 17:32:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes, I fabbed up that manifold. The engine is a '79 280Z that had fuel injection. I used the curved portion of the runners from a 240Z intake manifold and welded them to a narrowed BJ8 log manifold. On Thu, Dec 12, 2019 at 8:26 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > Richard, > > Interesting intake manifold; did you fab the runners yourself? Did you do > any flow bench testing? > > Cheers, > Bob > > On 12/11/2019 7:05 PM, richard mayor wrote: > > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go into > details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > [image: DSCN4470 (1).jpg] > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4470 (1).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2341455 bytes Desc: not available URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 18:39:48 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 17:39:48 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Point well taken about the air horns. I put them on the motor because they looked cool. But as I got closer to getting it driveable I put on my K&N filters. [image: DSCN4485.jpg] On Thu, Dec 12, 2019 at 12:03 AM Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some air > filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of severe fire > risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff is bullshit. Use > them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and enjoy them. We have > friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver and rebuild the car every > so often if and when extensive repairs are needed. > > To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for > driving. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 12-12-2019 om 04:05 schreef richard mayor: > > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go into > details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > [image: DSCN4470 (1).jpg] > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4470 (1).jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2341455 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4485.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2545702 bytes Desc: not available URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 19:09:58 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 18:09:58 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Good eye! Its actually a ' 79 280Z motor. I wanted to use SU HD8s with this swap because fuel injection would not look right. The intake runners are 240Z. I married those to a narrowed BJ8 log manifold and voila. Initially I was concerned about well it would run as compared to fuel injection. I was really surprised. It runs fantastic. And with the engine about 200 lbs lighter than the Austin lump it is much better balanced. On Thu, Dec 12, 2019 at 1:25 AM Bluehealey wrote: > That?s very tidy Richard. > What engine are you using? Is it a 240Z? > > Alan - from my iPad > > > On 12 Dec 2019, at 03:28, richard mayor wrote: > > > > ? > > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go > into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bluehealey at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 19:15:59 2019 From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey) Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2019 02:15:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <81EE15E3-D87B-4BB9-9F66-1168C3EAE4EE@gmail.com> ?? Alan - from my iPad > On 13 Dec 2019, at 02:10, richard mayor wrote: > > ? > Good eye! Its actually a ' 79 280Z motor. I wanted to use SU HD8s with this swap because fuel injection would not look right. The intake runners are 240Z. I married those to a narrowed BJ8 log manifold and voila. Initially I was concerned about well it would run as compared to fuel injection. I was really surprised. It runs fantastic. And with the engine about 200 lbs lighter than the Austin lump it is much better balanced. > >> On Thu, Dec 12, 2019 at 1:25 AM Bluehealey wrote: >> That?s very tidy Richard. >> What engine are you using? Is it a 240Z? >> >> Alan - from my iPad >> >> > On 12 Dec 2019, at 03:28, richard mayor wrote: >> > >> > ? >> > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Dec 12 19:46:49 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 18:46:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9765fb2c-9f91-a4df-6ad7-8bb12c009201@comcast.net> Nice!?? But won't you miss the understeer? On 12/12/2019 6:09 PM, richard mayor wrote: > Good eye!? Its actually a ' 79 280Z motor.? I wanted to use SU HD8s > with this swap because fuel injection would not look right.? The > intake runners are 240Z. I married those to a narrowed BJ8 log > manifold and voila.? Initially I was concerned about well it would run > as compared to fuel injection. I was really surprised. It runs > fantastic. And with the engine about 200 lbs lighter than the Austin > lump it is much better balanced. > > On Thu, Dec 12, 2019 at 1:25 AM Bluehealey > wrote: > > That?s very tidy Richard. > What engine are you using? Is it a 240Z? > > Alan - from my iPad > > > On 12 Dec 2019, at 03:28, richard mayor > wrote: > > > > ? > > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours.? I > can't go into details right now but here's a photo of the engine > compartment. > > > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healey100m at me.com Thu Dec 12 19:59:06 2019 From: healey100m at me.com (Randy Hicks) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 21:59:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Concours Registry and Guidelines (was: Thanks for all the help) In-Reply-To: References: <23181723.p4Ng9gmrm3@johnpc> Message-ID: <59BBE21D-2A6F-41D0-935C-123F59EE37C6@me.com> Thank You Michael, John and others who have chimed in in support of ?Concours?. I?ve held off responding due to the inappropriateness and lunacy of the comment. Despite what some people many feel, Concours is stronger than ever. This year we have sold over 100 set of the Guideline which is more than twice any previous year. The 2020 Update will be out in early January 2020 with more photos and quite a few addition and correction to pervious editions. We research and produce nearly 700 pages of data and photos supporting our passion. The Concours Committee (contrary to many beliefs) does believes that our Concours cars are meant to be driven. We also believe and acknowledge that Concours is not for everyone ( this is fine), but that we need to be documenting how the Austin-Healey was built originally as a source for those that are interested and those just wanting to keep their cars as they were produced. We learn more and more each year, and totally believe in passing the information along to those interested. It is hardly ?bullshit?. Hundreds of hours of work goes into the documentation each year. Randy Randy Hicks Chairman, Austin-Healey Concours Registry Committee > On Dec 12, 2019, at 7:09 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > > John, I could not agree with more with everything you have said. > Concours may not be for everyone but to characterize it as "bullshit" is a profound insult to the dozens of dedicated individuals who believe in the accurate preservation of the marque. > For years I found Kees contributions to this list to be consistently simplistic and generic and was very gratified to find that Gmail provides an easy way to block his drivel. > > M > > On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 11:27 AM John P. New, > wrote: > Kees, > > Your statement, "All this concourse stuff is bullshit," really makes me angry. > > I have been a member of this list for almost twenty years and I have seen you write some really inaccurate things about Healeys but this takes the cake. Indeed, even the late Richard Chrysler once told you on this list to keep your uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. > > The Concours Guidelines (and *please* spell concours properly) is one of the few secondary sources of information that can help in the preservation and restoration of an Austin-Healey. I would say that in many ways it is THE BEST secondary source because it is updated annually as new information is gathered. No publication is without errors, so even great books by such authors as Clausager or Moment & Anderson do contain factual inaccuracies that may mislead a restoration. (To be fair to Moment & Anderson, they keep a list of errata for their book, available for the asking) > > If you think Concours is about trailer queens and awards, then you just have no clue why the organization exists. To quote the very first sentence of the Austin-Healey Concours Registry Organization, Policies and Inspection Guidelines, > > "The Austin-Healey Concours Registry was created by members from a number of Austin-Healey clubs in North America to assist owners in restoring their cars to original standards and to encourage the restoration and maintenance of original cars." > > This sums up the entire mission of the Registry. Please note that the word "bullshit" does not appear there nor anywhere else in the publication. > > So, following in the footsteps of Richard Chrysler: Kees, please keep your baseless, uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. > > John P. New > London, Ontario, Canada > > > On Thursday, December 12, 2019 2:35:33 AM EST Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > > That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some > > air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of > > severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff > > is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and > > enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver > > and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are > > needed. > > > > To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for driving. > > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > > > > > Op 12-12-2019 om 04:05 schreef richard mayor: > > > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go > > > into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > > > > > DSCN4470 (1).jpg > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sgerow2 at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 21:13:43 2019 From: sgerow2 at gmail.com (Steve Gerow) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 20:13:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help (richard mayor) Message-ID: Richard, That's a nice install of a Z-car motor in a Healey. Am curious whether it sounds anything like a Healey. Nice custom manifold. Curious also why you didn't use the stock Z-car manifold? -- *Steve Gerow* BN6 Altadena, CA -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Thu Dec 12 23:55:20 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 22:55:20 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Concours Registry and Guidelines (was: Thanks for all the help) In-Reply-To: <59BBE21D-2A6F-41D0-935C-123F59EE37C6@me.com> References: <23181723.p4Ng9gmrm3@johnpc> <59BBE21D-2A6F-41D0-935C-123F59EE37C6@me.com> Message-ID: I'm also going to chime in here about Kees. I too have read many of his posts and thought to myself - that's not right, that's not how it is with a Healey, he doesn't know what he is talking about. It was my post about my project not being "concours" and showing a photo of my engine compartment that got this whole thing started. However, I was being facetious ..... the engine is a Datsun 280Z motor....... of course its not concours. That should have been instantly obvious that something was amiss. But Kees, the expert, completely missed that fact and instead criticized my use of air horns and then launched into the concours BS discussion. On Thu, Dec 12, 2019 at 7:03 PM Randy Hicks via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > Thank You Michael, John and others who have chimed in in support of > ?Concours?. I?ve held off responding due to the inappropriateness and > lunacy of the comment. > > Despite what some people many feel, Concours is stronger than ever. This > year we have sold over 100 set of the Guideline which is more than twice > any previous year. The 2020 Update will be out in early January 2020 with > more photos and quite a few addition and correction to pervious editions. > We research and produce nearly 700 pages of data and photos supporting our > passion. > > The Concours Committee (contrary to many beliefs) does believes that our > Concours cars are meant to be driven. We also believe and acknowledge that > Concours is not for everyone ( this is fine), but that we need to be > documenting how the Austin-Healey was built originally as a source for > those that are interested and those just wanting to keep their cars as they > were produced. We learn more and more each year, and totally believe in > passing the information along to those interested. > > It is hardly ?bullshit?. Hundreds of hours of work goes into the > documentation each year. > > Randy > > Randy Hicks > Chairman, Austin-Healey Concours Registry Committee > > On Dec 12, 2019, at 7:09 PM, Michael Salter > wrote: > > John, I could not agree with more with everything you have said. > Concours may not be for everyone but to characterize it as "bullshit" is a > profound insult to the dozens of dedicated individuals who believe in the > accurate preservation of the marque. > For years I found Kees contributions to this list to be consistently > simplistic and generic and was very gratified to find that Gmail provides > an easy way to block his drivel. > > M > > On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 11:27 AM John P. New, wrote: > >> Kees, >> >> Your statement, "All this concourse stuff is bullshit," really makes me >> angry. >> >> I have been a member of this list for almost twenty years and I have seen >> you write some really inaccurate things about Healeys but this takes the >> cake. Indeed, even the late Richard Chrysler once told you on this list to >> keep your uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. >> >> The Concours Guidelines (and *please* spell concours properly) is one of >> the few secondary sources of information that can help in the preservation >> and restoration of an Austin-Healey. I would say that in many ways it is >> THE BEST secondary source because it is updated annually as new information >> is gathered. No publication is without errors, so even great books by such >> authors as Clausager or Moment & Anderson do contain factual inaccuracies >> that may mislead a restoration. (To be fair to Moment & Anderson, they keep >> a list of errata for their book, available for the asking) >> >> If you think Concours is about trailer queens and awards, then you just >> have no clue why the organization exists. To quote the very first sentence >> of the Austin-Healey Concours Registry Organization, Policies and >> Inspection Guidelines, >> >> "The Austin-Healey Concours Registry was created by members from a number >> of Austin-Healey clubs in North America to assist owners in restoring their >> cars to original standards and to encourage the restoration and maintenance >> of original cars." >> >> This sums up the entire mission of the Registry. Please note that the >> word "bullshit" does not appear there nor anywhere else in the publication. >> >> So, following in the footsteps of Richard Chrysler: Kees, please keep >> your baseless, uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. >> >> John P. New >> London, Ontario, Canada >> >> >> On Thursday, December 12, 2019 2:35:33 AM EST Kees Oudesluijs wrote: >> > That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some >> > air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of >> > severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff >> > is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and >> > enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver >> > and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are >> > needed. >> > >> > To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for >> driving. >> > >> > Kees Oudesluijs >> > >> > >> > >> > Op 12-12-2019 om 04:05 schreef richard mayor: >> > > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go >> > > into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. >> > > >> > > DSCN4470 (1).jpg >> > > >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Fri Dec 13 00:06:07 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 23:06:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help (richard mayor) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: There were a number of reasons. The first one that comes to mind is that I could not use HD8s with the stock manifold. The 240 Z manifold also had lots of clutter and linkage that I did not want to use. If you look at my engine you will not see any choke cable or throttle linkage. As a comparison, here's a photo of a stock '79 280Z engine compartment. [image: engine frt.jpg] On Thu, Dec 12, 2019 at 8:14 PM Steve Gerow wrote: > Richard, > That's a nice install of a Z-car motor in a Healey. Am curious whether it > sounds anything like a Healey. > > Nice custom manifold. Curious also why you didn't use the stock Z-car > manifold? > > -- > *Steve Gerow* > BN6 > Altadena, CA > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: engine frt.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 140725 bytes Desc: not available URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Fri Dec 13 00:10:35 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Thu, 12 Dec 2019 23:10:35 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Thanks for all the help (richard mayor) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: To answer your question about the sound. The engine has headers but I'm still using a stock Walker 2 in 2 out muffler. The sound is only slightly different. On Thu, Dec 12, 2019 at 8:14 PM Steve Gerow wrote: > Richard, > That's a nice install of a Z-car motor in a Healey. Am curious whether it > sounds anything like a Healey. > > Nice custom manifold. Curious also why you didn't use the stock Z-car > manifold? > > -- > *Steve Gerow* > BN6 > Altadena, CA > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From josef-eckert at t-online.de Fri Dec 13 00:14:18 2019 From: josef-eckert at t-online.de (josef-eckert at t-online.de) Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2019 08:14:18 +0100 (CET) Subject: [Healeys] Concours Registry and Guidelines (was: Thanks for all the help) In-Reply-To: <59BBE21D-2A6F-41D0-935C-123F59EE37C6@me.com> References: <23181723.p4Ng9gmrm3@johnpc> <59BBE21D-2A6F-41D0-935C-123F59EE37C6@me.com> Message-ID: <1576221258181.3523725.a48d7504c7511514ae933439e3e22ef8410c56a7@spica.telekom.de> Thanks Randy, and all others working so hard on the Concours Guidelines. I really do not just appreciate your work, I love it!!!!!!!! As it is such a huge help when you are trying to restore an Austin-Healey to original specs. I think it doesn?t matter if you like to drive a "Concours car" or just " keep it warm" and use it on special occations. Its the love to the car and the marque which is for all kind of Austin-Healey enthusiasts. I personally love to work on the car and get the things right and have a car which looks and drives like it left the factory. Here in Europe, especially in Germany, I see most Austin-Healeys modified to the taste of their owners. Some look still nice, others I would say, Sorry done without any taste. Meanwhile all talk about Concours and say its bullshit, but most do not even know what Concours means. Even in the Austin-Healey Clubs Concours has a very hard stand. Meanwhile not at all supported by the Clubs. Josef Eckert K?nigswinter/Germany -----Original-Nachricht----- Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Concours Registry and Guidelines (was: Thanks for all the help) Datum: 2019-12-13T04:00:14+0100 Von: "Randy Hicks via Healeys" An: "Michael Salter" Thank You Michael, John and others who have chimed in in support of ?Concours?. I?ve held off responding due to the inappropriateness and lunacy of the comment. Despite what some people many feel, Concours is stronger than ever. This year we have sold over 100 set of the Guideline which is more than twice any previous year. The 2020 Update will be out in early January 2020 with more photos and quite a few addition and correction to pervious editions. We research and produce nearly 700 pages of data and photos supporting our passion. The Concours Committee (contrary to many beliefs) does believes that our Concours cars are meant to be driven. We also believe and acknowledge that Concours is not for everyone ( this is fine), but that we need to be documenting how the Austin-Healey was built originally as a source for those that are interested and those just wanting to keep their cars as they were produced. We learn more and more each year, and totally believe in passing the information along to those interested. It is hardly ?bullshit?. Hundreds of hours of work goes into the documentation each year. Randy Randy Hicks Chairman, Austin-Healey Concours Registry Committee On Dec 12, 2019, at 7:09 PM, Michael Salter > wrote: John, I could not agree with more with everything you have said. Concours may not be for everyone but to characterize it as "bullshit" is a profound insult to the dozens of dedicated individuals who believe in the accurate preservation of the marque. For years I found Kees contributions to this list to be consistently simplistic and generic and was very gratified to find that Gmail provides an easy way to block his drivel. M On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 11:27 AM John P. New, > wrote: Kees, Your statement, "All this concourse stuff is bullshit," really makes me angry. I have been a member of this list for almost twenty years and I have seen you write some really inaccurate things about Healeys but this takes the cake. Indeed, even the late Richard Chrysler once told you on this list to keep your uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. The Concours Guidelines (and *please* spell concours properly) is one of the few secondary sources of information that can help in the preservation and restoration of an Austin-Healey. I would say that in many ways it is THE BEST secondary source because it is updated annually as new information is gathered. No publication is without errors, so even great books by such authors as Clausager or Moment & Anderson do contain factual inaccuracies that may mislead a restoration. (To be fair to Moment & Anderson, they keep a list of errata for their book, available for the asking) If you think Concours is about trailer queens and awards, then you just have no clue why the organization exists. To quote the very first sentence of the Austin-Healey Concours Registry Organization, Policies and Inspection Guidelines, "The Austin-Healey Concours Registry was created by members from a number of Austin-Healey clubs in North America to assist owners in restoring their cars to original standards and to encourage the restoration and maintenance of original cars." This sums up the entire mission of the Registry. Please note that the word "bullshit" does not appear there nor anywhere else in the publication. So, following in the footsteps of Richard Chrysler: Kees, please keep your baseless, uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. John P. New London, Ontario, Canada On Thursday, December 12, 2019 2:35:33 AM EST Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some > air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of > severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff > is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and > enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver > and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are > needed. > > To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for driving. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 12-12-2019 om 04:05 schreef richard mayor: > > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go > > into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > > > DSCN4470 (1).jpg > > > ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca Fri Dec 13 00:17:00 2019 From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp) Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2019 02:17:00 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Concours Registry and Guidelines (was: Thanks for all the help) In-Reply-To: <024a01d5b14b$93cd3360$bb679a20$@gmail.com> References: <23181723.p4Ng9gmrm3@johnpc> <024a01d5b14b$93cd3360$bb679a20$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <014201d5b185$5013a890$f03af9b0$@sympatico.ca> I?ll second that. The Concours Guidelines sits right beside my workshop manual and Is consulted on almost every task I undertake. I belong to other one-make clubs, and of course talk to owners of other makes, and there is nothing to my knowledge that rivals the completeness and accuracy of the our Concours Guidelines. I would add that I appreciate its humbleness and open-mindedness. The authors note where there is doubt, seek new information from those with original cars, and intend only to provide the best possible information based on sound research and informed discussion. Moreover, some of the authors are regular contributors to this list, and I have had occasion to contact a number of them to seek clarification on some aspects of my Healey, and their knowledge and experience are always graciously provided; a contribution for which I and many other Healey owners are incredibly grateful for. We do not all have to share the view that the only way to prepare a car is to restore it to the way it was when it emerged from the doors at Abingdon (or Longbridge), but having that information at hand gives the ability to make informed decisions on every repair, regardless of whether it is a gold standard show car, a faithfully maintained driver like my BT7, or a tired old beast kept going on a shoestring budget. The Guidelines are the furthest thing from ?bullshit? I can think of. Many thanks to those who reference our dear departed friend Rich, who still inspires me. Mirek From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Fuller Sent: December-12-19 7:24 PM To: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Registry and Guidelines (was: Thanks for all the help) Michael and John: Thanks for expressing the sentiments others of us have!! My Healey is nowhere near concours, but I do really appreciate the efforts of those who help us understand what the cars are like when restored as they were when produced. Al Fuller From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Thursday, December 12, 2019 7:09 PM To: John P. New Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Concours Registry and Guidelines (was: Thanks for all the help) John, I could not agree with more with everything you have said. Concours may not be for everyone but to characterize it as "bullshit" is a profound insult to the dozens of dedicated individuals who believe in the accurate preservation of the marque. For years I found Kees contributions to this list to be consistently simplistic and generic and was very gratified to find that Gmail provides an easy way to block his drivel. M On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 11:27 AM John P. New, wrote: Kees, Your statement, "All this concourse stuff is bullshit," really makes me angry. I have been a member of this list for almost twenty years and I have seen you write some really inaccurate things about Healeys but this takes the cake. Indeed, even the late Richard Chrysler once told you on this list to keep your uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. The Concours Guidelines (and *please* spell concours properly) is one of the few secondary sources of information that can help in the preservation and restoration of an Austin-Healey. I would say that in many ways it is THE BEST secondary source because it is updated annually as new information is gathered. No publication is without errors, so even great books by such authors as Clausager or Moment & Anderson do contain factual inaccuracies that may mislead a restoration. (To be fair to Moment & Anderson, they keep a list of errata for their book, available for the asking) If you think Concours is about trailer queens and awards, then you just have no clue why the organization exists. To quote the very first sentence of the Austin-Healey Concours Registry Organization, Policies and Inspection Guidelines, "The Austin-Healey Concours Registry was created by members from a number of Austin-Healey clubs in North America to assist owners in restoring their cars to original standards and to encourage the restoration and maintenance of original cars." This sums up the entire mission of the Registry. Please note that the word "bullshit" does not appear there nor anywhere else in the publication. So, following in the footsteps of Richard Chrysler: Kees, please keep your baseless, uninformed opinions on Austin-Healeys to yourself. John P. New London, Ontario, Canada On Thursday, December 12, 2019 2:35:33 AM EST Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > That looks very neat and tidy. Time to get it dirty. However fit some > air filters in a cold box first. Avoid the foam affairs because of > severe fire risk. These cars are for driving. All this concourse stuff > is bullshit. Use them, make them safe to drive in modern traffic and > enjoy them. We have friends that use their A-H cars as a daily driver > and rebuild the car every so often if and when extensive repairs are > needed. > > To many concourse trailer queens about that may not even be fit for driving. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 12-12-2019 om 04:05 schreef richard mayor: > > The 1960 BT7 that I have been working on is not concours. I can't go > > into details right now but here's a photo of the engine compartment. > > > > DSCN4470 (1).jpg > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From linwoodrose at mac.com Fri Dec 13 08:01:03 2019 From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose) Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2019 15:01:03 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari Message-ID: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil Remington quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid having to bleed the brakes? Just curious. Lin -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Dec 13 10:00:57 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2019 09:00:57 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> References: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> Message-ID: <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> I wondered that myself.?? Maybe some sort of check valve on the brake lines and pre-filled calipers, allowing bleeding with just a couple quick pumps on the brake pedal? Of course, it was a movie, so maybe it was the figment of some screenpaly writer's imagination? Bob On 12/13/2019 7:01 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: > For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil > Remington quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid > having to bleed the brakes? > Just curious. > > Lin > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Fri Dec 13 11:08:25 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2019 10:08:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> References: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> Message-ID: The procedure is described in the book Go Like Hell by A.J. Baime. in 1996 at 4:10 AM Ken Miles who was in the leading car pulled into the pits. I quote from page 238 in the book: "It was his brakes. Miles had worked those disc brakes hard. His pit crew had practiced for days preparing for this moment. They went to work changing the front brake rotors, using the quick-change system that Shelby's chief engineer Phil Remington had designed. In minutes they finished a job that would've taken a small-town team of mechanics several hours." Not sure how accurate this is. The rotors, calipers and hubs would have been many hundreds of degrees HOT. They must have been wearing asbestos suits or had some other way to deal with the heat - or to cool things down. The pads would also need to be changed. What about the calipers? This all a bit fiddly even in a calm state of affairs. To say it only took minutes is probably an exaggeration. Just as much an exaggeration in saying it would take a team of small town mechanics several hours to change out a couple of rotors. I too would really like to know more about how they did this. On Fri, Dec 13, 2019 at 9:01 AM Bob Spidell wrote: > I wondered that myself. Maybe some sort of check valve on the brake > lines and pre-filled calipers, allowing bleeding with just a couple quick > pumps on the brake pedal? > > Of course, it was a movie, so maybe it was the figment of some screenpaly > writer's imagination? > > Bob > > On 12/13/2019 7:01 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: > > For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil Remington > quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid having to bleed the > brakes? > Just curious. > > Lin > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Fri Dec 13 11:35:32 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2019 10:35:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Quick change rotors - Ford v Ferrari Message-ID: Been doing some research. The rotor discs were detachable from the hat that could be removed without removing the hub. The caliper would be pivoted to the side to allow the disc removal. A quick release latch was fitted to the calipers to the allow a quick change replacment of the pads. All done in a few minutes. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Dec 13 19:34:28 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2019 18:34:28 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Quick change rotors - Ford v Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3e3e2396-c71b-1bbc-1ab2-0309683c9139@comcast.net> As hot as those brakes got it would have boiled the fluid, no? On 12/13/2019 10:35 AM, richard mayor wrote: > Been doing some research. The rotor discs were detachable from the > hat? that could be removed without removing the hub. The caliper would > be pivoted to the side to allow the disc removal. A quick release > latch was fitted to the calipers to the allow a quick change > replacment of the pads.? All done in a few minutes. > From austin.healey at gmail.com Sat Dec 14 01:29:28 2019 From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock) Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2019 19:29:28 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Quick change rotors - Ford v Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Here's a thread which discusses it in some detail https://forums.autosport.com/topic/212719-gt40-brake-changing/ Best Chris > On 14 Dec 2019, at 5:35 am, richard mayor wrote: > > Been doing some research. The rotor discs were detachable from the hat that could be removed without removing the hub. The caliper would be pivoted to the side to allow the disc removal. A quick release latch was fitted to the calipers to the allow a quick change replacment of the pads. All done in a few minutes. > ______________________________________________ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Dec 13 19:49:59 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2019 21:49:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 3000 Door Latch References: <2DF5009E-4A61-46F2-AC11-ADE74C7EC0F5.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <2DF5009E-4A61-46F2-AC11-ADE74C7EC0F5@aol.com> When you contemplate things that are strong on our Austin Healeys, rarely would someone pick the door latch. Brought this BJ7 home years ago and thought I would open the doors to start cleaning it out. Drivers door opened fairly easy. When I popped the passenger side door the frame folded. Surprise! Those latches were holding the car together. Memories of days gone by.... -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5754.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 25390 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5753.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 29768 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From gmolony1 at bigpond.com Sat Dec 14 11:19:45 2019 From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony) Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2019 05:19:45 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Quick change rotors - Ford v Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <73C1A9C257F94F7BB7D2541C030EE64E@msiallinone> Chris and Richard There were two teams who used slightly different variations on this theme to change both the callipers, discs etc. in the V8 Supercars Race at Bathurst in October this year. If you Google Supercars brake changes 2019 and go to the 1st video DJRTP and T8?s different approaches to brake changes you will see how it?s done in less than a minute. Sorry I tried to incorporate the direct URL but it doesn?t seem to want to respond There is if I remember correctly an even better illustration of this change over at some time during the actual race broadcast. Appears about two thirds of the way through the race. Cheers Graeme From: Chris Dimmock Sent: Saturday, December 14, 2019 7:29 PM To: richard mayor Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Quick change rotors - Ford v Ferrari Here's a thread which discusses it in some detail https://forums.autosport.com/topic/212719-gt40-brake-changing/ Best Chris On 14 Dec 2019, at 5:35 am, richard mayor wrote: Been doing some research. The rotor discs were detachable from the hat that could be removed without removing the hub. The caliper would be pivoted to the side to allow the disc removal. A quick release latch was fitted to the calipers to the allow a quick change replacment of the pads. All done in a few minutes. ______________________________________________ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gmolony1 at bigpond.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Sat Dec 14 11:41:58 2019 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Sat, 14 Dec 2019 18:41:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> References: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> Message-ID: <1029259835.8890425.1576348918081@mail.yahoo.com> Changing "rotors" ..Changing "pads" ...Changing "calipers" ...Not equivalent ?the ONLY time I need to open the fluid lines is when I have to change "calipers" All the caliper change directions I have seen advise to prefill/pre bleed caliper before fitting Heat? ...Use a CO2 extinguisher (you do have a current certified one in your shop) ...I do change pads .. c clamp to press piston back into caliper (use a large screwdriver/pry bar if you are changing pads/rotors)fluid will flow back into reservoir ...If you don't want the crud from the caliper back into the system, crack the bleeder valve..ditto for changing rotors Remove 2 pins to change pads//remove 2 bolts to change rotors/pads suspend "caliper" from ? to avoid kinking/twisting flex line remove/replace rotors .. remove/replace pads .. Piece o' cake (go to Les Schwab and watch how they do it) Jim On Friday, December 13, 2019, 5:01:27 PM UTC, Bob Spidell wrote: I wondered that myself.?? Maybe some sort of check valve on the brake lines and pre-filled calipers, allowing bleeding with just a couple quick pumps on the brake pedal? Of course, it was a movie, so maybe it was the figment of some screenpaly writer's imagination? Bob On 12/13/2019 7:01 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil Remington quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid having to bleed the brakes? Just curious. Lin _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Sun Dec 15 14:45:14 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2019 13:45:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow Message-ID: Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Dec 15 14:53:58 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2019 21:53:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Last Wednesday's Rant References: <523194602.7870875.1576446838417.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <523194602.7870875.1576446838417@mail.yahoo.com> ???? OK, shims in the right place now.? At least on the left side so far.? Once I finally got it through my thick skull how this thing goes together it only took a dozen different combinations of shims to get it right.? Turns easily with no lateral play.? I had .030, .020, .010, .005 and .003 shims, at least three of each.? I mixed them up so many times last night I don't even remember what the stack consists of right now.? I will measure them with the calipers when I take it apart again to grease the bearings and install the oil seal for the final assembly.? The only saving grace to all of this is I don't think I will need to replace the rotor in my lifetime as the car will be lucky to get a thousand miles a year.? When you have a Harley, a Bugeye and a BN2 you can only drive one at a time.? This tends to limit the mileage in any one vehicle.? If the rotor needs turning for a brake job I will be sure to find someone that can turn it in place on the car. ???? Now the complaint part of this email.? I bought all the correct shims from Moss.? The problem is some of them had an inner diameter that was too small to fit on the stub axle.? I checked the catalog numbers on their little zip lock bags against the numbers on Moss's web site.? They were all a match for all models other than the BJ8.? Great quality control.? Because of this I had to order more shims from Moss to do the right side of the car.? I can only hope against all hope the shims come in with the correct inner diameter.? Wish me luck.Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sun Dec 15 15:20:59 2019 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2019 22:20:59 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001d5b395$f1550e80$d3ff2b80$@alexarevel.plus.com> I?ve thought about it often. Mine?s OK but no more than OK. It?s been tacked and stapled so often that it looks like it?s had woodworm. I concluded that, when/if I do it, I?ll make it out of layers of marine ply. Make all the layers consistently oversize by about 10%, reduce it down a little with a draw knife then finish it off with one of those sand paper thingies on a foam rubber roller. (Used in an electric drill. Done outside as the sawdust comes off in clouds!) Those things are brilliant for making compound curves in wood. I first used one when I made my eldest daughter a large Victorian style rocking horse. Keeping the original close bow to hand and an accurate set of calipers should get a precise end result. Finish off with epoxy and a layer or two of some sort of sealer/preservative. I?d do it and good luck to you if you do. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: 15 December 2019 21:45 To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sun Dec 15 16:36:06 2019 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2019 15:36:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Holes for Rear Quarter Panel Message-ID: Hello, My car did not have door shut pillars (aka the B pillar) but it does now. I have made new wooden pieces for rear quarter panel and it looks like I need to drill 4 holes in the door shut pillar flange to attached the rear quarter panel. As the saying goes measure twice drill once. How big are the holes, what size and type of fastener is used and what are the approximate hole locations? I suspect a wood screw is used and from the old holes in the wood size looks like #8. Are they Flat Head or Pan Head or ???? Car is a 1960 BT7. Thanks... Harold -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: door shut pillars.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1758278 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Dec 15 16:54:24 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2019 18:54:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: <000001d5b395$f1550e80$d3ff2b80$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <000001d5b395$f1550e80$d3ff2b80$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: I have made several out of ash and they work just fine. The convertible ones would be a little more difficult as they curve in 2 planes but the roadsters are easy. I use a router mounted in a table to do the rounding. M On Sun, Dec 15, 2019, 5:21 PM , wrote: > I?ve thought about it often. Mine?s OK but no more than OK. It?s been > tacked and stapled so often that it looks like it?s had woodworm. > > I concluded that, when/if I do it, I?ll make it out of layers of marine > ply. Make all the layers consistently oversize by about 10%, reduce it down > a little with a draw knife then finish it off with one of those sand paper > thingies on a foam rubber roller. (Used in an electric drill. Done outside > as the sawdust comes off in clouds!) Those things are brilliant for making > compound curves in wood. I first used one when I made my eldest daughter a > large Victorian style rocking horse. Keeping the original close bow to hand > and an accurate set of calipers should get a precise end result. Finish off > with epoxy and a layer or two of some sort of sealer/preservative. > > I?d do it and good luck to you if you do. > > Simon > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *richard > mayor > *Sent:* 15 December 2019 21:45 > *To:* healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] Wood top bow > > > > Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a > new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could > make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, > etc. > > I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the > upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I > thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x > 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Sun Dec 15 20:11:06 2019 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 03:11:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow References: <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860@mail.yahoo.com> Richard I made my own some years ago.? Not a big deal if you have an eye for contours/curvatures (No woman jokes here please).? Unfortunately I made one for a BT7 when my car was a BN7.? The one which came with the car was in bad shape and not sure how it got with the car.? Did not realize until later that the two were different until after the bow and top was completed.? Since I almost never put the top on I did not bother and never had a correct one to go by so never made the correct one.Keith -----Original Message----- From: richard mayor To: healeys Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 4:45 pm Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow Has anyone made their own wood top bow?? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top.? I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself??? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 15 22:35:38 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2019 21:35:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000a01d5b3d2$a681dbd0$f3859370$@sbcglobal.net> My dad made one for my BT7 about 18 years ago. I think it took him two tries with different pieces of wood to get it close to right and he was an excellent wood craftsman. I had to do some work to shape it while fitting it. It is a complex compound curve. It can be done with patience and attention to detail. If it is not completely correct it will place too much stress on the windshield frame and break the windshield. I did not break my windshield, I was just observant and very careful. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2019 1:45 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 15 22:37:45 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 15 Dec 2019 21:37:45 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000f01d5b3d2$f1d57560$d5806020$@sbcglobal.net> BTW, a 1-1/2?x 1?1/2? stick will not work, at least for a BT7, because of the compound curve shape. Steaming it might make it work but I don?t know about that. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2019 1:45 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Mon Dec 16 07:56:19 2019 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 14:56:19 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1545672030.9231307.1576508179041@mail.yahoo.com> What is the difference between the BT7 & BN7 top bow??Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Keith Pennell via Healeys To: boyracer466 ; healeys Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 9:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow Richard I made my own some years ago.? Not a big deal if you have an eye for contours/curvatures (No woman jokes here please).? Unfortunately I made one for a BT7 when my car was a BN7.? The one which came with the car was in bad shape and not sure how it got with the car.? Did not realize until later that the two were different until after the bow and top was completed.? Since I almost never put the top on I did not bother and never had a correct one to go by so never made the correct one.Keith -----Original Message----- From: richard mayor To: healeys Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 4:45 pm Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow Has anyone made their own wood top bow?? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top.? I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself??? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Mon Dec 16 08:02:51 2019 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 15:02:51 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: <1545672030.9231307.1576508179041@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860@mail.yahoo.com> <1545672030.9231307.1576508179041@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <359774346.8198445.1576508571018@mail.yahoo.com> Wish I knew Gary.? Cannot understand why the same windshields would have two different bows.? Maybe because the top frames are different requires bows?Keith -----Original Message----- From: warthodson To: llennep ; boyracer466 ; healeys Sent: Mon, Dec 16, 2019 9:56 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow What is the difference between the BT7 & BN7 top bow??Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Keith Pennell via Healeys To: boyracer466 ; healeys Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 9:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow Richard I made my own some years ago.? Not a big deal if you have an eye for contours/curvatures (No woman jokes here please).? Unfortunately I made one for a BT7 when my car was a BN7.? The one which came with the car was in bad shape and not sure how it got with the car.? Did not realize until later that the two were different until after the bow and top was completed.? Since I almost never put the top on I did not bother and never had a correct one to go by so never made the correct one.Keith -----Original Message----- From: richard mayor To: healeys Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 4:45 pm Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow Has anyone made their own wood top bow?? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top.? I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself??? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Mon Dec 16 08:34:28 2019 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 15:34:28 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: <000f01d5b3d2$f1d57560$d5806020$@sbcglobal.net> References: <000f01d5b3d2$f1d57560$d5806020$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <709187609.9316736.1576510468592@mail.yahoo.com> Lots of articles/ideas/pictures of "laminated" ribs and such used in "Wooden Boat" magazine ..1/8" x 1-1/2" layered laminates would take a LOT of drudgery out of the construction Jim On Monday, December 16, 2019, 5:37:56 AM UTC, John Spaur wrote: BTW, a 1-1/2?x 1?1/2? stick will not work, at least for a BT7, because of the compound curve shape. Steaming it might make it work but I don?t know about that. ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2019 1:45 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow ? Has anyone made their own wood top bow?? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top.? I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself??? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Dec 16 09:56:37 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 08:56:37 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: <709187609.9316736.1576510468592@mail.yahoo.com> References: <000f01d5b3d2$f1d57560$d5806020$@sbcglobal.net> <709187609.9316736.1576510468592@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The 2 seater and the 4 seater have different header bows. Yes I know that Moss only lists one but they are wrong, there are three different header bows for the 6 cylinder Healeys. 2 seater, 4 seater and BJ7 ?8 So if you are putting a 2 seater top on that car that you are modifying you will need a 2 seater header bow. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: jim via Healeys Sent: Monday, December 16, 2019 7:34 AM To: 'richard mayor' ; 'healeys' ; John Spaur Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow Lots of articles/ideas/pictures of "laminated" ribs and such used in "Wooden Boat" magazine ..1/8" x 1-1/2" layered laminates would take a LOT of drudgery out of the construction Jim On Monday, December 16, 2019, 5:37:56 AM UTC, John Spaur wrote: BTW, a 1-1/2?x 1?1/2? stick will not work, at least for a BT7, because of the compound curve shape. Steaming it might make it work but I don?t know about that. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard mayor Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2019 1:45 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Dec 16 10:48:31 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 09:48:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: References: <000f01d5b3d2$f1d57560$d5806020$@sbcglobal.net> <709187609.9316736.1576510468592@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Do you know why 2 and seaters have different bows? Same windscreen Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Mon, Dec 16, 2019, 8:57 AM David Nock wrote: > The 2 seater and the 4 seater have different header bows. Yes I know that > Moss only lists one but they are wrong, there are three different header > bows for the 6 cylinder Healeys. 2 seater, 4 seater and BJ7 ?8 > > So if you are putting a 2 seater top on that car that you are modifying > you will need a 2 seater header bow. > > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the > British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites > by visiting the site at. > www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org > > > > > *From:* jim via Healeys > *Sent:* Monday, December 16, 2019 7:34 AM > *To:* 'richard mayor' ; 'healeys' > ; John Spaur > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow > > Lots of articles/ideas/pictures of "laminated" ribs and such used in > "Wooden Boat" magazine ..1/8" x 1-1/2" layered laminates would take a LOT > of drudgery out of the construction > > Jim > > On Monday, December 16, 2019, 5:37:56 AM UTC, John Spaur < > jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > > > BTW, a 1-1/2?x 1?1/2? stick will not work, at least for a BT7, because of > the compound curve shape. Steaming it might make it work but I don?t know > about that. > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *richard > mayor > *Sent:* Sunday, December 15, 2019 1:45 PM > *To:* healeys > *Subject:* [Healeys] Wood top bow > > > > Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a > new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could > make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, > etc. > > I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the > upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I > thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x > 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com > > ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Mon Dec 16 11:16:18 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 10:16:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: References: <000f01d5b3d2$f1d57560$d5806020$@sbcglobal.net> <709187609.9316736.1576510468592@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Looking at the Moss catalogue, I see that the latches are different and the aluminum retaining rail is also different. On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 9:49 AM i erbs wrote: > > Do you know why 2 and seaters have different bows? Same windscreen > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > 1959 Austin Healey BN4 > 1967 MGB > > On Mon, Dec 16, 2019, 8:57 AM David Nock wrote: > >> The 2 seater and the 4 seater have different header bows. Yes I know >> that Moss only lists one but they are wrong, there are three different >> header bows for the 6 cylinder Healeys. 2 seater, 4 seater and BJ7 ?8 >> >> So if you are putting a 2 seater top on that car that you are modifying >> you will need a 2 seater header bow. >> >> >> David Nock >> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> 209 948 8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> >> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the >> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites >> by visiting the site at. >> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org >> >> >> >> >> *From:* jim via Healeys >> *Sent:* Monday, December 16, 2019 7:34 AM >> *To:* 'richard mayor' ; 'healeys' >> ; John Spaur >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow >> >> Lots of articles/ideas/pictures of "laminated" ribs and such used in >> "Wooden Boat" magazine ..1/8" x 1-1/2" layered laminates would take a LOT >> of drudgery out of the construction >> >> Jim >> >> On Monday, December 16, 2019, 5:37:56 AM UTC, John Spaur < >> jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote: >> >> >> >> BTW, a 1-1/2?x 1?1/2? stick will not work, at least for a BT7, because of >> the compound curve shape. Steaming it might make it work but I don?t know >> about that. >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *richard >> mayor >> *Sent:* Sunday, December 15, 2019 1:45 PM >> *To:* healeys >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Wood top bow >> >> >> >> Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a >> new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could >> make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, >> etc. >> >> I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the >> upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I >> thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x >> 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com >> >> ------------------------------ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Dec 16 11:21:13 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 13:21:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: References: <000f01d5b3d2$f1d57560$d5806020$@sbcglobal.net> <709187609.9316736.1576510468592@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Actually the windscreen frame is different. As I recall the 2 seaters have a lip on the upper rail of the windscreen frame over which the 24B789 aluminium cap for the wood bow "hooks". The 4 seaters use a different clamping arrangement which does not require the security that this "hooking" provides on the 2 seaters. M On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 12:48 PM i erbs wrote: > > Do you know why 2 and seaters have different bows? Same windscreen > Ira Erbs > Portland,OR > 1959 Austin Healey BN4 > 1967 MGB > > On Mon, Dec 16, 2019, 8:57 AM David Nock wrote: > >> The 2 seater and the 4 seater have different header bows. Yes I know >> that Moss only lists one but they are wrong, there are three different >> header bows for the 6 cylinder Healeys. 2 seater, 4 seater and BJ7 ?8 >> >> So if you are putting a 2 seater top on that car that you are modifying >> you will need a 2 seater header bow. >> >> >> David Nock >> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net >> 209 948 8767 >> www.britishcarspecialists.com >> >> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the >> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites >> by visiting the site at. >> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org >> >> >> >> >> *From:* jim via Healeys >> *Sent:* Monday, December 16, 2019 7:34 AM >> *To:* 'richard mayor' ; 'healeys' >> ; John Spaur >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow >> >> Lots of articles/ideas/pictures of "laminated" ribs and such used in >> "Wooden Boat" magazine ..1/8" x 1-1/2" layered laminates would take a LOT >> of drudgery out of the construction >> >> Jim >> >> On Monday, December 16, 2019, 5:37:56 AM UTC, John Spaur < >> jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote: >> >> >> >> BTW, a 1-1/2?x 1?1/2? stick will not work, at least for a BT7, because of >> the compound curve shape. Steaming it might make it work but I don?t know >> about that. >> >> >> >> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *richard >> mayor >> *Sent:* Sunday, December 15, 2019 1:45 PM >> *To:* healeys >> *Subject:* [Healeys] Wood top bow >> >> >> >> Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a >> new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could >> make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, >> etc. >> >> I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the >> upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I >> thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x >> 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com >> >> ------------------------------ >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com >> >> _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Mon Dec 16 11:23:11 2019 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 18:23:11 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860@mail.yahoo.com> References: <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Made a similar mistake: bought a wood top bow For my BN7 but was sent one apparently for a BT7 said to be for a BN7. After numerous attempts to make it work, David Nock suggested perhaps the other vendor sold me the wrong one; that there were subtle differences. So when the next wooden bow arrived, sure enough the differences are subtle but definitely made the difference. So now I have a lovely mostly unused BT7 (I assume) wooden bow sitting in my parts locker. Regards, Richard of KY BN7 440 On Dec 15, 2019, at 21:11, Keith Pennell via Healeys wrote: ? Richard I made my own some years ago. Not a big deal if you have an eye for contours/curvatures (No woman jokes here please). Unfortunately I made one for a BT7 when my car was a BN7. The one which came with the car was in bad shape and not sure how it got with the car. Did not realize until later that the two were different until after the bow and top was completed. Since I almost never put the top on I did not bother and never had a correct one to go by so never made the correct one. Keith -----Original Message----- From: richard mayor To: healeys Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 4:45 pm Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon Dec 16 11:31:23 2019 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 18:31:23 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Wood top bow References: <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860@mail.yahoo.com> <1545672030.9231307.1576508179041@mail.yahoo.com> <359774346.8198445.1576508571018@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004001d5b43f$05d5e1a0$1181a4e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Yes, strange. Bit of a trap for the unwary. Looking at Ahead4Healeys site shows bows grouped as follows:- BN1 & BN2 ?14.22 (Sorry CD, nothing for the BN3!) BN6 & BN7 ?69.95 BN4 & BT7 ?77.50 BJ7 & BJ8 ?104.95 Prices shown for interest but, presumably, the higher the price the more complex the shape? Actually, that seems surprisingly cheap especially as club members get 10% discount and no transatlantic postage?? Simon From: Healeys > On Behalf Of Keith Pennell via Healeys Sent: 16 December 2019 15:03 To: warthodson at aol.com ; boyracer466 at gmail.com ; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow Wish I knew Gary. Cannot understand why the same windshields would have two different bows. Maybe because the top frames are different requires bows? Keith -----Original Message----- From: warthodson > To: llennep >; boyracer466 >; healeys > Sent: Mon, Dec 16, 2019 9:56 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow What is the difference between the BT7 & BN7 top bow? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Keith Pennell via Healeys > To: boyracer466 >; healeys > Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 9:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow Richard I made my own some years ago. Not a big deal if you have an eye for contours/curvatures (No woman jokes here please). Unfortunately I made one for a BT7 when my car was a BN7. The one which came with the car was in bad shape and not sure how it got with the car. Did not realize until later that the two were different until after the bow and top was completed. Since I almost never put the top on I did not bother and never had a correct one to go by so never made the correct one. Keith -----Original Message----- From: richard mayor > To: healeys > Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 4:45 pm Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Dec 16 12:03:40 2019 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 11:03:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: <1545672030.9231307.1576508179041@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1545672030.9231307.1576508179041@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6D54B6C3-B9F5-4792-BC8B-FCC00DE4DED1@sbcglobal.net> The two seater does not have the nut sert for the patch and has a cut out for the top frame on each side. David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 16, 2019, at 6:56 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > > ? > What is the difference between the BT7 & BN7 top bow? > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Keith Pennell via Healeys > To: boyracer466 ; healeys > Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 9:11 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow > > Richard > > I made my own some years ago. Not a big deal if you have an eye for contours/curvatures (No woman jokes here please). Unfortunately I made one for a BT7 when my car was a BN7. The one which came with the car was in bad shape and not sure how it got with the car. Did not realize until later that the two were different until after the bow and top was completed. Since I almost never put the top on I did not bother and never had a correct one to go by so never made the correct one. > Keith > > > -----Original Message----- > From: richard mayor > To: healeys > Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 4:45 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow > > Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. > I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 16305 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 18568 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Mon Dec 16 12:03:40 2019 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 11:03:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: <1545672030.9231307.1576508179041@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1545672030.9231307.1576508179041@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <6D54B6C3-B9F5-4792-BC8B-FCC00DE4DED1@sbcglobal.net> The two seater does not have the nut sert for the patch and has a cut out for the top frame on each side. David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 16, 2019, at 6:56 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: > > ? > What is the difference between the BT7 & BN7 top bow? > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Keith Pennell via Healeys > To: boyracer466 ; healeys > Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 9:11 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow > > Richard > > I made my own some years ago. Not a big deal if you have an eye for contours/curvatures (No woman jokes here please). Unfortunately I made one for a BT7 when my car was a BN7. The one which came with the car was in bad shape and not sure how it got with the car. Did not realize until later that the two were different until after the bow and top was completed. Since I almost never put the top on I did not bother and never had a correct one to go by so never made the correct one. > Keith > > > -----Original Message----- > From: richard mayor > To: healeys > Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 4:45 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow > > Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. > I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 16305 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 18568 bytes Desc: not available URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Mon Dec 16 13:20:12 2019 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2019 07:20:12 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] FW: Wood top bow In-Reply-To: <004001d5b43f$05d5e1a0$1181a4e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <2057854587.8010658.1576465866860@mail.yahoo.com> <1545672030.9231307.1576508179041@mail.yahoo.com> <359774346.8198445.1576508571018@mail.yahoo.com> <004001d5b43f$05d5e1a0$1181a4e0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <007701d5b44e$39ff2950$adfd7bf0$@tpg.com.au> Hello The top bow for the BN3 is in excellent condition. Originally it had a single piece 100 screen (ie did not slide forward) and it now is fitted with a 100/6 screen However the BN3 itself is sitting outside waiting for the bushfires to pass. Much better than being inside an old milking shed that is my garage. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Sent: Tuesday, 17 December 2019 5:31 AM To: 'Healeys' Subject: [Healeys] FW: Wood top bow Yes, strange. Bit of a trap for the unwary. Looking at Ahead4Healeys site shows bows grouped as follows:- BN1 & BN2 ?14.22 (Sorry CD, nothing for the BN3!) BN6 & BN7 ?69.95 BN4 & BT7 ?77.50 BJ7 & BJ8 ?104.95 Prices shown for interest but, presumably, the higher the price the more complex the shape? Actually, that seems surprisingly cheap especially as club members get 10% discount and no transatlantic postage?? Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Keith Pennell via Healeys Sent: 16 December 2019 15:03 To: warthodson at aol.com; boyracer466 at gmail.com; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow Wish I knew Gary. Cannot understand why the same windshields would have two different bows. Maybe because the top frames are different requires bows? Keith -----Original Message----- From: warthodson To: llennep ; boyracer466 ; healeys Sent: Mon, Dec 16, 2019 9:56 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow What is the difference between the BT7 & BN7 top bow? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Keith Pennell via Healeys To: boyracer466 ; healeys Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 9:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow Richard I made my own some years ago. Not a big deal if you have an eye for contours/curvatures (No woman jokes here please). Unfortunately I made one for a BT7 when my car was a BN7. The one which came with the car was in bad shape and not sure how it got with the car. Did not realize until later that the two were different until after the bow and top was completed. Since I almost never put the top on I did not bother and never had a correct one to go by so never made the correct one. Keith -----Original Message----- From: richard mayor To: healeys Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 4:45 pm Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Mon Dec 16 14:09:40 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 13:09:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Top Bow disaster Message-ID: I won't be using my old top bow as a pattern. As you can see in the photo, there are slits in the old top bow to make it fit the curve. I've counted 23 slits. Who knows what make of car it came off of. Michael, I looked at 4 different windshield frames, one of which came off a BN7. I can see no differences in the top rails that would allow the 2 seater top bow trim piece to lock into. Unless, the 2 seater top bow trim piece itself is curved enough to lock under the windshield rail? [image: DSCN4761.jpg] -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4761.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2755419 bytes Desc: not available URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Mon Dec 16 14:14:02 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 13:14:02 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: <6D54B6C3-B9F5-4792-BC8B-FCC00DE4DED1@sbcglobal.net> References: <1545672030.9231307.1576508179041@mail.yahoo.com> <6D54B6C3-B9F5-4792-BC8B-FCC00DE4DED1@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: So David, Other then the nut serts and the cutout, they are identical? On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 11:03 AM David Nock wrote: > > The two seater does not have the nut sert for the patch and has a cut out > for the top frame on each side. > > > David Nock > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 16, 2019, at 6:56 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys < > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: > > ? > What is the difference between the BT7 & BN7 top bow? > Gary Hodson > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Keith Pennell via Healeys > To: boyracer466 ; healeys > Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 9:11 pm > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow > > Richard > > I made my own some years ago. Not a big deal if you have an eye for > contours/curvatures (No woman jokes here please). Unfortunately I made one > for a BT7 when my car was a BN7. The one which came with the car was in > bad shape and not sure how it got with the car. Did not realize until > later that the two were different until after the bow and top was > completed. Since I almost never put the top on I did not bother and never > had a correct one to go by so never made the correct one. > Keith > > > -----Original Message----- > From: richard mayor > To: healeys > Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 4:45 pm > Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow > > Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a > new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could > make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, > etc. > I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the > upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I > thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x > 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 16305 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 18568 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Dec 16 15:33:09 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 17:33:09 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Top Bow disaster In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi Richard, thinking of those windscreen top rails. Maybe I'm getting mixed up between the 100 frames and the 6 cylinder ones so I would like to get this clear in my mind. The part numbers for the 2 seater and 4 seater chrome frame, which is listed as one part, is the same 24B625 so it is most likely that you are correct in that hey were all the same. However the part number for the "hoodstick retaining rail" is different. As I remember the 2 seater rail forms a hook on the front edge to hook over a lip of the upper chromed frame where as the 4 seater style has no such formed "hook". Unfortunately I don't have an illustrated BN4 parts book and the handbooks aren't a lot of help. If anyone out there can shed more light on this subject I would be very grateful. M On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 4:25 PM richard mayor wrote: > I won't be using my old top bow as a pattern. As you can see in the photo, > there are slits in the old top bow to make it fit the curve. I've counted > 23 slits. Who knows what make of car it came off of. > > Michael, I looked at 4 different windshield frames, one of which came > off a BN7. I can see no differences in the top rails that would allow the 2 > seater top bow trim piece to lock into. Unless, the 2 seater top bow trim > piece itself is curved enough to lock under the windshield rail? > > [image: DSCN4761.jpg] > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4761.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2755419 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Dec 16 15:50:57 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 14:50:57 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow In-Reply-To: References: <1545672030.9231307.1576508179041@mail.yahoo.com> <6D54B6C3-B9F5-4792-BC8B-FCC00DE4DED1@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <67321A09DA014084A3618E47D606DD79@DavidNockHP> Yes the shape and cross section are the same. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: richard mayor Sent: Monday, December 16, 2019 1:14 PM To: David Nock Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow So David, Other then the nut serts and the cutout, they are identical? On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 11:03 AM David Nock wrote: The two seater does not have the nut sert for the patch and has a cut out for the top frame on each side. David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 16, 2019, at 6:56 AM, warthodson--- via Healeys wrote: ? What is the difference between the BT7 & BN7 top bow? Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Keith Pennell via Healeys To: boyracer466 ; healeys Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 9:11 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wood top bow Richard I made my own some years ago. Not a big deal if you have an eye for contours/curvatures (No woman jokes here please). Unfortunately I made one for a BT7 when my car was a BN7. The one which came with the car was in bad shape and not sure how it got with the car. Did not realize until later that the two were different until after the bow and top was completed. Since I almost never put the top on I did not bother and never had a correct one to go by so never made the correct one. Keith -----Original Message----- From: richard mayor To: healeys Sent: Sun, Dec 15, 2019 4:45 pm Subject: [Healeys] Wood top bow Has anyone made their own wood top bow? As I'm getting ready to order a new wood top bow for my BN7, and seeing the price, I wondered if I could make my own. I have my own little wood shop, band saw, table saw, router, etc. I have not yet disassembled the old top. I was leaving that up to the upholstery shop so they could see how it all goes together. But then I thought, how hard could it be to make one myself? A 4 foot 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stick of white oak will cost me about $20.00. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image0.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 16305 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image1.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 18568 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Mon Dec 16 16:14:38 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 15:14:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Top Bow disaster In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0C39907C02D84991812B938CF93F1598@DavidNockHP> Richard you got that backwards. The 2 seater aluminium trim on the header rail is square and does not hook onto the top rail of the windshield. The 4 seater has a hook and hooks onto the top rail of the windshield. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Michael Salter Sent: Monday, December 16, 2019 2:33 PM To: richard mayor Cc: healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Top Bow disaster Hi Richard, thinking of those windscreen top rails. Maybe I'm getting mixed up between the 100 frames and the 6 cylinder ones so I would like to get this clear in my mind. The part numbers for the 2 seater and 4 seater chrome frame, which is listed as one part, is the same 24B625 so it is most likely that you are correct in that hey were all the same. However the part number for the "hoodstick retaining rail" is different. As I remember the 2 seater rail forms a hook on the front edge to hook over a lip of the upper chromed frame where as the 4 seater style has no such formed "hook". Unfortunately I don't have an illustrated BN4 parts book and the handbooks aren't a lot of help. If anyone out there can shed more light on this subject I would be very grateful. M On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 4:25 PM richard mayor wrote: I won't be using my old top bow as a pattern. As you can see in the photo, there are slits in the old top bow to make it fit the curve. I've counted 23 slits. Who knows what make of car it came off of. Michael, I looked at 4 different windshield frames, one of which came off a BN7. I can see no differences in the top rails that would allow the 2 seater top bow trim piece to lock into. Unless, the 2 seater top bow trim piece itself is curved enough to lock under the windshield rail? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4761.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2755419 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Dec 16 16:36:11 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 18:36:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Top Bow disaster In-Reply-To: <0C39907C02D84991812B938CF93F1598@DavidNockHP> References: <0C39907C02D84991812B938CF93F1598@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: Ahh yes, the old grey matter is starting to rouse !! The 4 seater system requires the "hook" over the lip of the windscreen frame to stabilize and position the front bow because unlike the 2 seater it doesn't have the side bars connecting the front bow to the top frame. That said then my question is answered because my BN6 parts book illustrates the forward lip on the windscreen top rail even though those cars do not have the "hook" on the " hoodstick retaining rail". Got it ... sort of ... but ... then why does the 2 seater BN6/7 need the forward lip on the windscreen top rail? ... my guess is parts standardization. Thanks everyone for your help. M On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 6:15 PM David Nock wrote: > Richard you got that backwards. The 2 seater aluminium trim on the header > rail is square and does not hook onto the top rail of the windshield. The 4 > seater has a hook and hooks onto the top rail of the windshield. > > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the > British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites > by visiting the site at. > www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org > > *From:* Michael Salter > *Sent:* Monday, December 16, 2019 2:33 PM > *To:* richard mayor > *Cc:* healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Top Bow disaster > > Hi Richard, thinking of those windscreen top rails. Maybe I'm getting > mixed up between the 100 frames and the 6 cylinder ones so I would like > to get this clear in my mind. > The part numbers for the 2 seater and 4 seater chrome frame, which is > listed as one part, is the same 24B625 so it is most likely that you are > correct in that hey were all the same. > However the part number for the "hoodstick retaining rail" is different. > As I remember the 2 seater rail forms a hook on the front edge to hook > over a lip of the upper chromed frame where as the 4 seater style has no > such formed "hook". > Unfortunately I don't have an illustrated BN4 parts book and the handbooks > aren't a lot of help. > If anyone out there can shed more light on this subject I would be very > grateful. > > M > > On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 4:25 PM richard mayor > wrote: > >> I won't be using my old top bow as a pattern. As you can see in the >> photo, there are slits in the old top bow to make it fit the curve. I've >> counted 23 slits. Who knows what make of car it came off of. >> >> Michael, I looked at 4 different windshield frames, one of which came >> off a BN7. I can see no differences in the top rails that would allow the 2 >> seater top bow trim piece to lock into. Unless, the 2 seater top bow trim >> piece itself is curved enough to lock under the windshield rail? >> >> [image: DSCN4761.jpg] >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> ------------------------------ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4761.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 2755419 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Mon Dec 16 16:55:44 2019 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 18:55:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 soft top Message-ID: <12838fec-698a-4b45-b7b0-1fcfb0f1747b@earthlink.net> Listers, Little British Car Co sells soft tops for the 100 and 6 cylinder roadsters with a zipper rear window. Made in the UK with different materials, including Everflex vinyl. Anyone have any experience with them? One would have to believe that there's a flap covering the zipper, like the convertibles, but would be nice to confirm. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Dec 16 22:17:12 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2019 21:17:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] BT7 soft top In-Reply-To: <12838fec-698a-4b45-b7b0-1fcfb0f1747b@earthlink.net> References: <12838fec-698a-4b45-b7b0-1fcfb0f1747b@earthlink.net> Message-ID: I have a Robbins bn4 top with zippered rear window. Love it on hot days. I get relief from the sun and air blows out the back window. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Mon, Dec 16, 2019, 4:26 PM Bob Haskell wrote: > Listers, > > Little British Car Co sells soft tops for the 100 and 6 cylinder > roadsters with a zipper rear window. Made in the UK with different > materials, including Everflex vinyl. Anyone have any experience with > them? One would have to believe that there's a flap covering the > zipper, like the convertibles, but would be nice to confirm. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bradh904 at gmail.com Tue Dec 17 08:39:44 2019 From: bradh904 at gmail.com (Brad Holden) Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2019 10:39:44 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] seat runners Message-ID: Here's a dumb question but I gotta ask, the seats on a BJ8 sit on two wooden slats which have 5/16 holes drilled for the studs or so I figured, the slats also have larger holes drilled which I am now thinking are for the nuts and washers to fit into? Can someone clue me in? Many thanks, Brad Holden -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Tue Dec 17 09:17:04 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2019 08:17:04 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] seat runners In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1377315BBB464C2FA68EC1265BC444FD@DavidNockHP> Not sure why there are the smaller holes in them. They are not used. The tube nuts come thru the floor and thru the large holes and attach to the studs on the seat tracks. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: Brad Holden Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2019 7:39 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] seat runners Here's a dumb question but I gotta ask, the seats on a BJ8 sit on two wooden slats which have 5/16 holes drilled for the studs or so I figured, the slats also have larger holes drilled which I am now thinking are for the nuts and washers to fit into? Can someone clue me in? Many thanks, Brad Holden -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rvmaylor at shaw.ca Tue Dec 17 10:55:51 2019 From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor) Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2019 10:55:51 -0700 (MST) Subject: [Healeys] 1956 Austin A95 Message-ID: <1361029518.796861623.1576605351317.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> An A95 is for sale locally but is somewhat of a wreck. Wondering if any of the parts are transferable. Block, rear end, trany? Thx Ross From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Dec 17 11:25:36 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2019 18:25:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] BT7 soft top In-Reply-To: References: <12838fec-698a-4b45-b7b0-1fcfb0f1747b@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <337182969.449428.1576607136977@mail.yahoo.com> Several years ago I bought a top for my Bugeye through LBCarCo.? The sewn "pocket" for the front bow that swings out was not in the right place.? Not sure if it was my top bows or the top.? Top bows are original to the car and not bent or incorrect.? I even went on the Spridget list and asked for distances of the top bows when extended.? All right on.? I would love to try someone else's top to see if it is the top bows or the LBCarCo top.Mike MacLean On Monday, December 16, 2019, 9:18:25 PM PST, i erbs wrote: I have a Robbins bn4 top with zippered rear window. Love it on hot days. I get relief from the sun and air blows out the back window.? Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Mon, Dec 16, 2019, 4:26 PM Bob Haskell wrote: Listers, Little British Car Co sells soft tops for the 100 and 6 cylinder roadsters with a zipper rear window.? Made in the UK with different materials, including Everflex vinyl.? Anyone have any experience with them?? One would have to believe that there's a flap covering the zipper, like the convertibles, but would be nice to confirm. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From llennep at verizon.net Tue Dec 17 14:08:12 2019 From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell) Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2019 21:08:12 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] seat runners In-Reply-To: <1377315BBB464C2FA68EC1265BC444FD@DavidNockHP> References: <1377315BBB464C2FA68EC1265BC444FD@DavidNockHP> Message-ID: <1842304814.516615.1576616892786@mail.yahoo.com> Weight savings.? For the racer types.? :)? :) -----Original Message----- From: David Nock To: bradh904 ; Healeys Sent: Tue, Dec 17, 2019 11:17 am Subject: Re: [Healeys] seat runners Not sure why there are the smaller holes in them. They are not used. The tube nuts come thru the floor and thru the large holes and attach to the studs on the seat tracks.??David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org ?From: Brad Holden Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2019 7:39 AMTo: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] seat runners?Here's a dumb question but I gotta ask, the seats on a BJ8 sit on two wooden slats which have 5/16 holes drilled for the studs or so I figured, the slats also have larger holes drilled which I am now thinking are for the nuts and washers to fit into? Can someone clue me in? Many thanks,Brad Holden_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Tue Dec 17 18:53:25 2019 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2019 17:53:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 1956 Austin A95 In-Reply-To: <1361029518.796861623.1576605351317.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> References: <1361029518.796861623.1576605351317.JavaMail.zimbra@shaw.ca> Message-ID: <8CCAE808D7EF4817B7301BC409120D0E@AllInOne> Ross, I had an overdrive transmission from an Austin A95 and concluded there may he a few internal parts that possibly could be used on a Healey. I ended up selling the complete transmission rather than risk miss-matched parts. Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ross Maylor Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2019 9:56 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 1956 Austin A95 An A95 is for sale locally but is somewhat of a wreck. Wondering if any of the parts are transferable. Block, rear end, trany? Thx Ross _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net From healey.nut at gmail.com Tue Dec 17 20:22:36 2019 From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 11:22:36 +0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: <1029259835.8890425.1576348918081@mail.yahoo.com> References: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> <1029259835.8890425.1576348918081@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: as long as you are removing the brake pads and not the calipers, no need bleed anything. Honestly with some practice on the BJ8, with a full pit crew, you could probably remove and replace the rotors and pads in 5 min or less if assemblies were ready. On Sun, Dec 15, 2019 at 2:43 AM jim via Healeys wrote: > Changing "rotors" ..Changing "pads" ...Changing "calipers" ...Not > equivalent > > the ONLY time I need to open the fluid lines is when I have to change > "calipers" > > All the caliper change directions I have seen advise to prefill/pre bleed > caliper before fitting > > Heat? ...Use a CO2 extinguisher (you do have a current certified one in > your shop) ...I do > > change pads .. c clamp to press piston back into caliper (use a large > screwdriver/pry bar if you are changing pads/rotors) > fluid will flow back into reservoir ...If you don't want the crud from the > caliper back into the system, crack the bleeder valve.. > ditto for changing rotors > > Remove 2 pins to change pads//remove 2 bolts to change rotors/pads > > suspend "caliper" from ? to avoid kinking/twisting flex line > > remove/replace rotors .. > > remove/replace pads .. > > Piece o' cake (go to Les Schwab and watch how they do it) > > Jim > > > > > On Friday, December 13, 2019, 5:01:27 PM UTC, Bob Spidell < > bspidell at comcast.net> wrote: > > > I wondered that myself. Maybe some sort of check valve on the brake > lines and pre-filled calipers, allowing bleeding with just a couple quick > pumps on the brake pedal? > > Of course, it was a movie, so maybe it was the figment of some screenpaly > writer's imagination? > > Bob > > On 12/13/2019 7:01 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: > > For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil Remington > quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid having to bleed the > brakes? > Just curious. > > Lin > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Tue Dec 17 22:51:27 2019 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 05:51:27 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> <1029259835.8890425.1576348918081@mail.yahoo.com>, Message-ID: In the movie, although there wasn't much technical explanation, it appeared that they removed and replaced the entire suspension upright assembly with new stub axles, hubs, rotors and calipers in place. I was thinking they must have used some kind of quick connect on the brake lines with a quick bleeder in place. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2019 3:22 AM To: jim Cc: Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari as long as you are removing the brake pads and not the calipers, no need bleed anything. Honestly with some practice on the BJ8, with a full pit crew, you could probably remove and replace the rotors and pads in 5 min or less if assemblies were ready. On Sun, Dec 15, 2019 at 2:43 AM jim via Healeys > wrote: Changing "rotors" ..Changing "pads" ...Changing "calipers" ...Not equivalent the ONLY time I need to open the fluid lines is when I have to change "calipers" All the caliper change directions I have seen advise to prefill/pre bleed caliper before fitting Heat? ...Use a CO2 extinguisher (you do have a current certified one in your shop) ...I do change pads .. c clamp to press piston back into caliper (use a large screwdriver/pry bar if you are changing pads/rotors) fluid will flow back into reservoir ...If you don't want the crud from the caliper back into the system, crack the bleeder valve.. ditto for changing rotors Remove 2 pins to change pads//remove 2 bolts to change rotors/pads suspend "caliper" from ? to avoid kinking/twisting flex line remove/replace rotors .. remove/replace pads .. Piece o' cake (go to Les Schwab and watch how they do it) Jim On Friday, December 13, 2019, 5:01:27 PM UTC, Bob Spidell > wrote: I wondered that myself. Maybe some sort of check valve on the brake lines and pre-filled calipers, allowing bleeding with just a couple quick pumps on the brake pedal? Of course, it was a movie, so maybe it was the figment of some screenpaly writer's imagination? Bob On 12/13/2019 7:01 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil Remington quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid having to bleed the brakes? Just curious. Lin _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Wed Dec 18 06:39:13 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 08:39:13 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Optimal lighting form a BN1 Message-ID: As a winter project I would like to upgrade my 100's lighting to provide for optimal brightness all around and would like to get on one piece of paper bulb recommendations to provide maximum lighting: Headlights, sidelights, twin 576 driving lights and dash lights. Lighting fixtures are stock except that I have illuminated the rear reflector pods to function as turn signals which have plastic conical lenses In making recommendations please include relay recommendations and/or where wiring may need to be upgraded. Charging capacity is not a consideration as I have a 75 amp alternator. Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed Dec 18 07:38:30 2019 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 09:38:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> <1029259835.8890425.1576348918081@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I too remember that in the film they seemed to be swapping out the entire upright assembly. If you want to watch a good film about that era, see ?Shelby American? on Netflix. I wasn?t at all impressed by ?Ford VS Ferrari??just another Hollywood treatment full of ridiculous inaccuracies. They?re still using that old 1950?s ?B? movie technique where two drivers are supposed to be approaching the end of the Mulsanne straight at very high speed, and they have time to glare at one another! And apparently all you have to do to overtake is gear down and press the accelerator. I know it?s Hollywood, but sheesh! Stephen, BJ8 > On Dec 18, 2019, at 12:51 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > In the movie, although there wasn't much technical explanation, it appeared that they removed and replaced the entire suspension upright assembly with new stub axles, hubs, rotors and calipers in place. I was thinking they must have used some kind of quick connect on the brake lines with a quick bleeder in place. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2019 3:22 AM > To: jim > Cc: Healey list > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari > > as long as you are removing the brake pads and not the calipers, no need bleed anything. Honestly with some practice on the BJ8, with a full pit crew, you could probably remove and replace the rotors and pads in 5 min or less if assemblies were ready. > > > On Sun, Dec 15, 2019 at 2:43 AM jim via Healeys > wrote: > Changing "rotors" ..Changing "pads" ...Changing "calipers" ...Not equivalent > > the ONLY time I need to open the fluid lines is when I have to change "calipers" > > All the caliper change directions I have seen advise to prefill/pre bleed caliper before fitting > > Heat? ...Use a CO2 extinguisher (you do have a current certified one in your shop) ...I do > > change pads .. c clamp to press piston back into caliper (use a large screwdriver/pry bar if you are changing pads/rotors) > fluid will flow back into reservoir ...If you don't want the crud from the caliper back into the system, crack the bleeder valve.. > ditto for changing rotors > > Remove 2 pins to change pads//remove 2 bolts to change rotors/pads > > suspend "caliper" from ? to avoid kinking/twisting flex line > > remove/replace rotors .. > > remove/replace pads .. > > Piece o' cake (go to Les Schwab and watch how they do it) > > Jim > > > > > On Friday, December 13, 2019, 5:01:27 PM UTC, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > > I wondered that myself. Maybe some sort of check valve on the brake lines and pre-filled calipers, allowing bleeding with just a couple quick pumps on the brake pedal? > > Of course, it was a movie, so maybe it was the figment of some screenpaly writer's imagination? > > Bob > > On 12/13/2019 7:01 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: >> For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil Remington quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid having to bleed the brakes? >> Just curious. >> >> Lin >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys? http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From s.hutchings at rogers.com Wed Dec 18 07:38:30 2019 From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 09:38:30 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> <1029259835.8890425.1576348918081@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I too remember that in the film they seemed to be swapping out the entire upright assembly. If you want to watch a good film about that era, see ?Shelby American? on Netflix. I wasn?t at all impressed by ?Ford VS Ferrari??just another Hollywood treatment full of ridiculous inaccuracies. They?re still using that old 1950?s ?B? movie technique where two drivers are supposed to be approaching the end of the Mulsanne straight at very high speed, and they have time to glare at one another! And apparently all you have to do to overtake is gear down and press the accelerator. I know it?s Hollywood, but sheesh! Stephen, BJ8 > On Dec 18, 2019, at 12:51 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > In the movie, although there wasn't much technical explanation, it appeared that they removed and replaced the entire suspension upright assembly with new stub axles, hubs, rotors and calipers in place. I was thinking they must have used some kind of quick connect on the brake lines with a quick bleeder in place. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2019 3:22 AM > To: jim > Cc: Healey list > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari > > as long as you are removing the brake pads and not the calipers, no need bleed anything. Honestly with some practice on the BJ8, with a full pit crew, you could probably remove and replace the rotors and pads in 5 min or less if assemblies were ready. > > > On Sun, Dec 15, 2019 at 2:43 AM jim via Healeys > wrote: > Changing "rotors" ..Changing "pads" ...Changing "calipers" ...Not equivalent > > the ONLY time I need to open the fluid lines is when I have to change "calipers" > > All the caliper change directions I have seen advise to prefill/pre bleed caliper before fitting > > Heat? ...Use a CO2 extinguisher (you do have a current certified one in your shop) ...I do > > change pads .. c clamp to press piston back into caliper (use a large screwdriver/pry bar if you are changing pads/rotors) > fluid will flow back into reservoir ...If you don't want the crud from the caliper back into the system, crack the bleeder valve.. > ditto for changing rotors > > Remove 2 pins to change pads//remove 2 bolts to change rotors/pads > > suspend "caliper" from ? to avoid kinking/twisting flex line > > remove/replace rotors .. > > remove/replace pads .. > > Piece o' cake (go to Les Schwab and watch how they do it) > > Jim > > > > > On Friday, December 13, 2019, 5:01:27 PM UTC, Bob Spidell > wrote: > > > I wondered that myself. Maybe some sort of check valve on the brake lines and pre-filled calipers, allowing bleeding with just a couple quick pumps on the brake pedal? > > Of course, it was a movie, so maybe it was the figment of some screenpaly writer's imagination? > > Bob > > On 12/13/2019 7:01 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: >> For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil Remington quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid having to bleed the brakes? >> Just curious. >> >> Lin >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys? http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richard.ewald at gmail.com Wed Dec 18 08:07:26 2019 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 07:07:26 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <42D15E6C-F772-4757-990C-8A55841E7FA1@gmail.com> This assumes the movie was 100% factual about the brake repair. Remember, it?s a movie. Having a tech drag out an entire suspension upright is visually much more exciting than grabbing a set of pads and a new rotor. Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 17, 2019, at 9:51 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > ? > In the movie, although there wasn't much technical explanation, it appeared that they removed and replaced the entire suspension upright assembly with new stub axles, hubs, rotors and calipers in place. I was thinking they must have used some kind of quick connect on the brake lines with a quick bleeder in place. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist > Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2019 3:22 AM > To: jim > Cc: Healey list > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari > > as long as you are removing the brake pads and not the calipers, no need bleed anything. Honestly with some practice on the BJ8, with a full pit crew, you could probably remove and replace the rotors and pads in 5 min or less if assemblies were ready. > > > On Sun, Dec 15, 2019 at 2:43 AM jim via Healeys wrote: > Changing "rotors" ..Changing "pads" ...Changing "calipers" ...Not equivalent > > the ONLY time I need to open the fluid lines is when I have to change "calipers" > > All the caliper change directions I have seen advise to prefill/pre bleed caliper before fitting > > Heat? ...Use a CO2 extinguisher (you do have a current certified one in your shop) ...I do > > change pads .. c clamp to press piston back into caliper (use a large screwdriver/pry bar if you are changing pads/rotors) > fluid will flow back into reservoir ...If you don't want the crud from the caliper back into the system, crack the bleeder valve.. > ditto for changing rotors > > Remove 2 pins to change pads//remove 2 bolts to change rotors/pads > > suspend "caliper" from ? to avoid kinking/twisting flex line > > remove/replace rotors .. > > remove/replace pads .. > > Piece o' cake (go to Les Schwab and watch how they do it) > > Jim > > > > > On Friday, December 13, 2019, 5:01:27 PM UTC, Bob Spidell wrote: > > > I wondered that myself. Maybe some sort of check valve on the brake lines and pre-filled calipers, allowing bleeding with just a couple quick pumps on the brake pedal? > > Of course, it was a movie, so maybe it was the figment of some screenpaly writer's imagination? > > Bob > >> On 12/13/2019 7:01 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: >> For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil Remington quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid having to bleed the brakes? >> Just curious. >> >> Lin >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/richard.ewald at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Dec 18 09:07:25 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 08:07:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Optimal lighting form a BN1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: LEDs all 'round.? They use a lot less power; you can go back to a good ol' dynamo! First photo is rear driving lights (LED in left; color distorted by brightness; they're red).? Next photos are LED headlights (second photo is stock incandescent, next two are low and high beams).? I got the driving/brake lights at:* **https://tinyurl.com/yat7h529* * *Headlights at LBCcars.com*. *Bob* * * * On 12/18/2019 5:39 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > As a winter project I would like to upgrade my 100's lighting to > provide for optimal brightness all around and would like to get on one > piece of paper bulb recommendations to provide maximum lighting:? > Headlights, sidelights, twin 576 driving lights and dash lights. > Lighting fixtures are stock except that I have illuminated the rear > reflector pods to function as turn signals which have plastic conical > lenses > > In making recommendations please include relay recommendations and/or > where wiring may need to be upgraded.? Charging capacity is not a > consideration as I have a 75 amp alternator. > > Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... 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Name: IMG_0138.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 96338 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Wed Dec 18 09:16:03 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 08:16:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> <1029259835.8890425.1576348918081@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <9863d35c-1f2f-1fe4-09b2-ebe099a63652@comcast.net> OTOH, the 'Hollywood treatment' broadens the appeal; my girlfriend, who doesn't have a gearhead strand in her DNA enjoyed the movie (which makes for a more pleasant after-movie experience).? I also liked that they made Enzo Ferarri look like a jackass which, from all I've heard, he was.? I'm sure most of us on this list would prefer a technical documentary on exactly how the cars were designed, built, tuned and driven but then you'd have an audience of maybe a couple thousand people. ps.? I thought the 'clunk' they Foleyed-in for gearchanges didn't sound realistic, but I've never driven a GT40 so who knows. On 12/18/2019 6:38 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > I too remember that in the film they seemed to be swapping out the > entire upright assembly. > If you want to watch a good film about that era, see ?Shelby American? > on Netflix. > I wasn?t at all impressed by ?Ford VS Ferrari??just another Hollywood > treatment full of ridiculous inaccuracies. > They?re still using that old 1950?s ?B? movie technique where two > drivers are supposed to be approaching the end of the Mulsanne > straight at very high speed, and they have time to glare at one another! > And apparently all you have to do to overtake is gear down and press > the accelerator. > I know it?s Hollywood, but sheesh! > > Stephen, BJ8 > >> On Dec 18, 2019, at 12:51 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > > wrote: >> >> In the movie, although there wasn't much technical explanation, it >> appeared that they removed and replaced the entire suspension upright >> assembly with new stub axles, hubs, rotors and calipers in place. I >> was thinking they must have used some kind of quick connect on the >> brake lines with a quick bleeder in place. >> >> Bill Lawrence >> BN1 #554 >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Wed Dec 18 09:44:05 2019 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 16:44:05 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Optimal lighting form a BN1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001e01d5b5c2$5db7b0e0$192712a0$@alexarevel.plus.com> AH Spares do a complete LED set for 100s & 3000s, pos or neg. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bob Spidell Sent: 18 December 2019 16:07 To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Optimal lighting form a BN1 LEDs all 'round. They use a lot less power; you can go back to a good ol' dynamo! First photo is rear driving lights (LED in left; color distorted by brightness; they're red). Next photos are LED headlights (second photo is stock incandescent, next two are low and high beams). I got the driving/brake lights at: https://tinyurl.com/yat7h529 Headlights at LBCcars.com. Bob On 12/18/2019 5:39 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: As a winter project I would like to upgrade my 100's lighting to provide for optimal brightness all around and would like to get on one piece of paper bulb recommendations to provide maximum lighting: Headlights, sidelights, twin 576 driving lights and dash lights. Lighting fixtures are stock except that I have illuminated the rear reflector pods to function as turn signals which have plastic conical lenses In making recommendations please include relay recommendations and/or where wiring may need to be upgraded. Charging capacity is not a consideration as I have a 75 amp alternator. Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Wed Dec 18 10:07:50 2019 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 17:07:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> <1029259835.8890425.1576348918081@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <741068218.594543.1576688870201@mail.yahoo.com> yeah, but.... You still need to compress caliper piston, thus displacing the fluid in the caliper back toward the master cylinder and reservoir ...also too ,,on combination disk/drum systems, there is a "proportioning valve" ...to avoid back pressuring/overfilling reservoir/mucking up the proportioning valve, I bleed excess fluid at caliper .. Maybe overkill but ..YMMV Jim On Wednesday, December 18, 2019, 3:22:49 AM UTC, Alan Seigrist wrote: as long as you are removing the brake pads and not the calipers, no need bleed anything.? Honestly with some practice on the BJ8, with a full pit crew, you could probably remove and replace the rotors and pads in 5 min or less if assemblies were ready. On Sun, Dec 15, 2019 at 2:43 AM jim via Healeys wrote: Changing "rotors" ..Changing "pads" ...Changing "calipers" ...Not equivalent ?the ONLY time I need to open the fluid lines is when I have to change "calipers" All the caliper change directions I have seen advise to prefill/pre bleed caliper before fitting Heat? ...Use a CO2 extinguisher (you do have a current certified one in your shop) ...I do change pads .. c clamp to press piston back into caliper (use a large screwdriver/pry bar if you are changing pads/rotors)fluid will flow back into reservoir ...If you don't want the crud from the caliper back into the system, crack the bleeder valve..ditto for changing rotors Remove 2 pins to change pads//remove 2 bolts to change rotors/pads suspend "caliper" from ? to avoid kinking/twisting flex line remove/replace rotors .. remove/replace pads .. Piece o' cake (go to Les Schwab and watch how they do it) Jim On Friday, December 13, 2019, 5:01:27 PM UTC, Bob Spidell wrote: I wondered that myself.?? Maybe some sort of check valve on the brake lines and pre-filled calipers, allowing bleeding with just a couple quick pumps on the brake pedal? Of course, it was a movie, so maybe it was the figment of some screenpaly writer's imagination? Bob On 12/13/2019 7:01 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil Remington quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid having to bleed the brakes? Just curious. Lin _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Wed Dec 18 10:11:36 2019 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 17:11:36 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> <1029259835.8890425.1576348918081@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <137107599.567423.1576689096963@mail.yahoo.com> the operative phrase being "in the movie" ...maybe they used "the force" ???? Jim On Wednesday, December 18, 2019, 5:51:29 AM UTC, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: In the movie, although there wasn't much technical explanation, it appeared that they removed and replaced the entire suspension upright assembly with new stub axles, hubs, rotors and calipers in place. I was thinking they must have used some kind of quick connect on the brake lines with a quick bleeder in place. Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: Healeys on behalf of Alan Seigrist Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2019 3:22 AM To: jim Cc: Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari?as long as you are removing the brake pads and not the calipers, no need bleed anything.? Honestly with some practice on the BJ8, with a full pit crew, you could probably remove and replace the rotors and pads in 5 min or less if assemblies were ready. On Sun, Dec 15, 2019 at 2:43 AM jim via Healeys wrote: Changing "rotors" ..Changing "pads" ...Changing "calipers" ...Not equivalent ?the ONLY time I need to open the fluid lines is when I have to change "calipers" All the caliper change directions I have seen advise to prefill/pre bleed caliper before fitting Heat? ...Use a CO2 extinguisher (you do have a current certified one in your shop) ...I do change pads .. c clamp to press piston back into caliper (use a large screwdriver/pry bar if you are changing pads/rotors)fluid will flow back into reservoir ...If you don't want the crud from the caliper back into the system, crack the bleeder valve..ditto for changing rotors Remove 2 pins to change pads//remove 2 bolts to change rotors/pads suspend "caliper" from ? to avoid kinking/twisting flex line remove/replace rotors .. remove/replace pads .. Piece o' cake (go to Les Schwab and watch how they do it) Jim On Friday, December 13, 2019, 5:01:27 PM UTC, Bob Spidell wrote: I wondered that myself.?? Maybe some sort of check valve on the brake lines and pre-filled calipers, allowing bleeding with just a couple quick pumps on the brake pedal? Of course, it was a movie, so maybe it was the figment of some screenpaly writer's imagination? Bob On 12/13/2019 7:01 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil Remington quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid having to bleed the brakes? Just curious. Lin _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Dec 18 10:19:47 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 07:19:47 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: <9863d35c-1f2f-1fe4-09b2-ebe099a63652@comcast.net> References: <9863d35c-1f2f-1fe4-09b2-ebe099a63652@comcast.net> Message-ID: <3B7F2EEB-BEA0-48D5-9499-608EF8A86D5E@aol.com> There are different themes that play out during the movie for sure. I?ll once again vote for the father / son relationship and ?the Perfect Lap?. Perry Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 18, 2019, at 6:51 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ? OTOH, the 'Hollywood treatment' broadens the appeal; my girlfriend, who doesn't have a gearhead strand in her DNA enjoyed the movie (which makes for a more pleasant after-movie experience). I also liked that they made Enzo Ferarri look like a jackass which, from all I've heard, he was. I'm sure most of us on this list would prefer a technical documentary on exactly how the cars were designed, built, tuned and driven but then you'd have an audience of maybe a couple thousand people. > > ps. I thought the 'clunk' they Foleyed-in for gearchanges didn't sound realistic, but I've never driven a GT40 so who knows. > > > On 12/18/2019 6:38 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: >> I too remember that in the film they seemed to be swapping out the entire upright assembly. >> If you want to watch a good film about that era, see ?Shelby American? on Netflix. >> I wasn?t at all impressed by ?Ford VS Ferrari??just another Hollywood treatment full of ridiculous inaccuracies. >> They?re still using that old 1950?s ?B? movie technique where two drivers are supposed to be approaching the end of the Mulsanne straight at very high speed, and they have time to glare at one another! >> And apparently all you have to do to overtake is gear down and press the accelerator. >> I know it?s Hollywood, but sheesh! >> >> Stephen, BJ8 >> >>> On Dec 18, 2019, at 12:51 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >>> >>> In the movie, although there wasn't much technical explanation, it appeared that they removed and replaced the entire suspension upright assembly with new stub axles, hubs, rotors and calipers in place. I was thinking they must have used some kind of quick connect on the brake lines with a quick bleeder in place. >>> >>> Bill Lawrence >>> BN1 #554 >>> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Dec 18 10:19:47 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 07:19:47 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: <9863d35c-1f2f-1fe4-09b2-ebe099a63652@comcast.net> References: <9863d35c-1f2f-1fe4-09b2-ebe099a63652@comcast.net> Message-ID: <3B7F2EEB-BEA0-48D5-9499-608EF8A86D5E@aol.com> There are different themes that play out during the movie for sure. I?ll once again vote for the father / son relationship and ?the Perfect Lap?. Perry Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 18, 2019, at 6:51 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ? OTOH, the 'Hollywood treatment' broadens the appeal; my girlfriend, who doesn't have a gearhead strand in her DNA enjoyed the movie (which makes for a more pleasant after-movie experience). I also liked that they made Enzo Ferarri look like a jackass which, from all I've heard, he was. I'm sure most of us on this list would prefer a technical documentary on exactly how the cars were designed, built, tuned and driven but then you'd have an audience of maybe a couple thousand people. > > ps. I thought the 'clunk' they Foleyed-in for gearchanges didn't sound realistic, but I've never driven a GT40 so who knows. > > > On 12/18/2019 6:38 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: >> I too remember that in the film they seemed to be swapping out the entire upright assembly. >> If you want to watch a good film about that era, see ?Shelby American? on Netflix. >> I wasn?t at all impressed by ?Ford VS Ferrari??just another Hollywood treatment full of ridiculous inaccuracies. >> They?re still using that old 1950?s ?B? movie technique where two drivers are supposed to be approaching the end of the Mulsanne straight at very high speed, and they have time to glare at one another! >> And apparently all you have to do to overtake is gear down and press the accelerator. >> I know it?s Hollywood, but sheesh! >> >> Stephen, BJ8 >> >>> On Dec 18, 2019, at 12:51 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: >>> >>> In the movie, although there wasn't much technical explanation, it appeared that they removed and replaced the entire suspension upright assembly with new stub axles, hubs, rotors and calipers in place. I was thinking they must have used some kind of quick connect on the brake lines with a quick bleeder in place. >>> >>> Bill Lawrence >>> BN1 #554 >>> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Wed Dec 18 11:32:47 2019 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 18:32:47 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: <3B7F2EEB-BEA0-48D5-9499-608EF8A86D5E@aol.com> References: <9863d35c-1f2f-1fe4-09b2-ebe099a63652@comcast.net>, <3B7F2EEB-BEA0-48D5-9499-608EF8A86D5E@aol.com> Message-ID: It occurs to me that another option would have been a floating caliper assembly in which they could have kept the hydraulic system in place and sealed on the chassis and been able to remove and replace the caliper and pads in a unit. They must have had something unusual going on which gave them enough of an advantage to cause Enzo to lodge a complaint. If anyone ever gets close enough to one of these cars to check it out it would be interesting to have a report. Bill Lawrence ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Perry Small via Healeys Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2019 5:19 PM To: Bob Spidell Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari There are different themes that play out during the movie for sure. I?ll once again vote for the father / son relationship and ?the Perfect Lap?. Perry Sent from my iPhone On Dec 18, 2019, at 6:51 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: ? OTOH, the 'Hollywood treatment' broadens the appeal; my girlfriend, who doesn't have a gearhead strand in her DNA enjoyed the movie (which makes for a more pleasant after-movie experience). I also liked that they made Enzo Ferarri look like a jackass which, from all I've heard, he was. I'm sure most of us on this list would prefer a technical documentary on exactly how the cars were designed, built, tuned and driven but then you'd have an audience of maybe a couple thousand people. ps. I thought the 'clunk' they Foleyed-in for gearchanges didn't sound realistic, but I've never driven a GT40 so who knows. On 12/18/2019 6:38 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: I too remember that in the film they seemed to be swapping out the entire upright assembly. If you want to watch a good film about that era, see ?Shelby American? on Netflix. I wasn?t at all impressed by ?Ford VS Ferrari??just another Hollywood treatment full of ridiculous inaccuracies. They?re still using that old 1950?s ?B? movie technique where two drivers are supposed to be approaching the end of the Mulsanne straight at very high speed, and they have time to glare at one another! And apparently all you have to do to overtake is gear down and press the accelerator. I know it?s Hollywood, but sheesh! Stephen, BJ8 On Dec 18, 2019, at 12:51 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > wrote: In the movie, although there wasn't much technical explanation, it appeared that they removed and replaced the entire suspension upright assembly with new stub axles, hubs, rotors and calipers in place. I was thinking they must have used some kind of quick connect on the brake lines with a quick bleeder in place. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Wed Dec 18 11:50:20 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 19:50:20 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Optimal lighting form a BN1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Tricky one. In general LED is the way to go on old barges but all connections and bulb holders must be top notch. The LED lights would use a similar type number as the original Tungsten bulbs. There can be a problem with the bulbs for the instruments as some may be just slightly to wide and will not pass the tubes for the bulb holders. They are quite a bit brighter but check if you like the colour as many are quite bluish. Several colours are available but if you can find warm white that would be the best option I think. Also check that the light is projected upwards through a lens and not sideways as many do. I would keep the brake lights and the indicator lights as Tungsten bulbs. Using LED's in the indicator lights also means that you have to change the old indicator relay to an electronic one that is not load sensitive or fit LED bulbs that have a ballast resistor to compensate. Replacement LED's are only slightly brighter, depending on their design. They do not always go well with the design of the lens and reflector. The same LED light may work very well in one application but look very dim in another. I usually buy them in China via Ebay and try out several designs in the different applications. They are cheap enough to do some experimenting. LED lights should be chosen in the same colour as the lens. E.g. a white LED bulb would be very dim behind a red or amber lens as there is very little red and yellow in the spectrum of a white (even warm white) LED light. If you still have the original old Tungsten Duplo head lights you should change the complete units to 7" halogen H4 units which will be a lot brighter. It is advisable that you use a relay here. Use the original harness to switch the relay and use much thicker wire to the H4 bulbs including the earth wire. You can have 100W instead if 60W H4 bulbs but in Europe these would be illegal. You can also replace the H4 bulb with a H4 LED replacement bulb (no relay needed), however this may sometimes cause a wrong light pattern, or go for complete 7" LED units that are currently available for e.g. JEEP, but the looks are not to everybody's taste. I do not think you would need a relay as the power consumption is similar to the Duplo bulb. Keep the halogen bulbs for the driving lights. LED's will probably not add that much but again LED replacements are cheap enough to try out. LED lights do not need any changes to the wiring other than absolute cleanliness of the contacts. No relay's really needed. Kees Oudesluijs Op 18-12-2019 om 14:39 schreef Michael Oritt: > As a winter project I would like to upgrade my 100's lighting to > provide for optimal brightness all around and would like to get on one > piece of paper bulb recommendations to provide maximum lighting:? > Headlights, sidelights, twin 576 driving lights and dash lights. > Lighting fixtures are stock except that I have illuminated the rear > reflector pods to function as turn signals which have plastic conical > lenses > > In making recommendations please include relay recommendations and/or > where wiring may need to be upgraded.? Charging capacity is not a > consideration as I have a 75 amp alternator. > > Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Wed Dec 18 13:51:31 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2019 12:51:31 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Optimal lighting form a BN1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Check these guys out. Direct replacement and a clean white light http://www.litezupp.com/ Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Wed, Dec 18, 2019, 5:40 AM Michael Oritt wrote: > As a winter project I would like to upgrade my 100's lighting to provide > for optimal brightness all around and would like to get on one piece of > paper bulb recommendations to provide maximum lighting: Headlights, > sidelights, twin 576 driving lights and dash lights. > > Lighting fixtures are stock except that I have illuminated the rear > reflector pods to function as turn signals which have plastic conical lenses > > In making recommendations please include relay recommendations and/or > where wiring may need to be upgraded. Charging capacity is not a > consideration as I have a 75 amp alternator. > > Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Wed Dec 18 15:24:30 2019 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2019 08:24:30 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Optimal lighting form a BN1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000f01d5b5f1$eb54d9d0$c1fe8d70$@com.au> LED headlights are not very nice to drive with at night, too white and very hard on the eyes. But then I don?t believe much night driving is undertaken with Healeys. John Rowe Qld Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Thursday, 19 December 2019 6:52 AM To: Michael Oritt Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Optimal lighting form a BN1 Check these guys out. Direct replacement and a clean white light http://www.litezupp.com/ Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Wed, Dec 18, 2019, 5:40 AM Michael Oritt wrote: As a winter project I would like to upgrade my 100's lighting to provide for optimal brightness all around and would like to get on one piece of paper bulb recommendations to provide maximum lighting: Headlights, sidelights, twin 576 driving lights and dash lights. Lighting fixtures are stock except that I have illuminated the rear reflector pods to function as turn signals which have plastic conical lenses In making recommendations please include relay recommendations and/or where wiring may need to be upgraded. Charging capacity is not a consideration as I have a 75 amp alternator. Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From pdzwig at summaventures.com Thu Dec 19 14:53:16 2019 From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig) Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2019 21:53:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> <1029259835.8890425.1576348918081@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Actually guys, isn't there anyone on the list who was involved in some way? or has a fiend who was? So that we know what was done. In the nicest possible way, if you do ask them and put us out of our misery! All the best, Peter PS Yes, I did have a friend who worked on a couple of the GT40s in later years and was part of the 567 record-breaker resurrection team at one point, but he appears to have disappeared off the face of the earth! On 18/12/2019 05:51, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > In the movie, although there wasn't much technical explanation, it > appeared that they removed and replaced the entire suspension upright > assembly with new stub axles, hubs, rotors and calipers in place. I was > thinking they must have used some kind of quick connect on the brake > lines with a quick bleeder in place. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Alan > Seigrist > *Sent:* Wednesday, December 18, 2019 3:22 AM > *To:* jim > *Cc:* Healey list > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari > ? > as long as you are removing the brake pads and not the calipers, no need > bleed anything.? Honestly with some practice on the BJ8, with a full pit > crew, you could probably remove and replace the rotors and pads in 5 min > or less if assemblies were ready. > > > On Sun, Dec 15, 2019 at 2:43 AM jim via Healeys > wrote: > > Changing "rotors" ..Changing "pads" ...Changing "calipers" ...Not > equivalent > > ?the ONLY time I need to open the fluid lines is when I have to > change "calipers" > > All the caliper change directions I have seen advise to prefill/pre > bleed caliper before fitting > > Heat? ...Use a CO2 extinguisher (you do have a current certified one > in your shop) ...I do > > change pads .. c clamp to press piston back into caliper (use a > large screwdriver/pry bar if you are changing pads/rotors) > fluid will flow back into reservoir ...If you don't want the crud > from the caliper back into the system, crack the bleeder valve.. > ditto for changing rotors > > Remove 2 pins to change pads//remove 2 bolts to change rotors/pads > > suspend "caliper" from ? to avoid kinking/twisting flex line > > remove/replace rotors .. > > remove/replace pads .. > > Piece o' cake (go to Les Schwab and watch how they do it) > > Jim > > > > > On Friday, December 13, 2019, 5:01:27 PM UTC, Bob Spidell > > wrote: > > > I wondered that myself.?? Maybe some sort of check valve on the > brake lines and pre-filled calipers, allowing bleeding with just a > couple quick pumps on the brake pedal? > > Of course, it was a movie, so maybe it was the figment of some > screenpaly writer's imagination? > > Bob > > On 12/13/2019 7:01 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: >> For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil >> Remington quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid >> having to bleed the brakes? >> Just curious. >> >> Lin >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig From healeyrik at gmail.com Thu Dec 19 17:14:31 2019 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2019 19:14:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: <9863d35c-1f2f-1fe4-09b2-ebe099a63652@comcast.net> <3B7F2EEB-BEA0-48D5-9499-608EF8A86D5E@aol.com> Message-ID: More grist for the mill: BRAKES: As noted before, brakes have been "a sticky problem. Nobody at Ford or Shelby American will say that the brakes are adequate yet-but rather that the driver must be careful with them. Last year the- radial-spoked rotors (vented discs) cracked regularly. Curved spokes this year have reduced failures somewhat but not completely, and metal coatings tried earlier failed to live up to expectations. With 653 sq in. of swept area, there is no room for larger discs or pads. What happens in use is that the rotors get tremendously hot during' braking and then cool very rapidly as speed builds. Because pad wear and rotor cracking were insoluble, at least for this year, it seemed that methods had to be found for replacing brake parts quickly. Two neat solutions along this line came forth from the racing teams. Shelby American head Phil Remington devised quick-change brake pad retainers which allow rapid removal and replacement of the pads. A remarkable new feature was conceived by John Holman of Holman-Moody during the year's development: quick change discs! This is a first, and surely will start a trend, The disc hats are outboard of the hub flange and held in place by the wheel studs, the caliper and the wheel itself. Thus when the wheel is removed, and the caliper swung away (which requires only the loosening of two bolts), the disc may be snatched off and a new one slipped on in seconds. Design details and development work on this item were carried out by Ford and Shelby American engineers. Disc diameters remain 11.6 in front and rear, and Girling BR single calipers are used at both ends of the car. Source: http://sportscars.tv/Newfiles/66fordgtdevewin.html On Wed, Dec 18, 2019 at 1:33 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > It occurs to me that another option would have been a floating caliper > assembly in which they could have kept the hydraulic system in place and > sealed on the chassis and been able to remove and replace the caliper and > pads in a unit. > > They must have had something unusual going on which gave them enough of an > advantage to cause Enzo to lodge a complaint. > > If anyone ever gets close enough to one of these cars to check it out it > would be interesting to have a report. > > Bill Lawrence > ------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Perry Small > via Healeys > *Sent:* Wednesday, December 18, 2019 5:19 PM > *To:* Bob Spidell > *Cc:* Healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari > > There are different themes that play > out during the movie for sure. I?ll once > again vote for the father / son relationship > and ?the Perfect Lap?. > Perry > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 18, 2019, at 6:51 AM, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ? OTOH, the 'Hollywood treatment' broadens the appeal; my girlfriend, who > doesn't have a gearhead strand in her DNA enjoyed the movie (which makes > for a more pleasant after-movie experience). I also liked that they made > Enzo Ferarri look like a jackass which, from all I've heard, he was. I'm > sure most of us on this list would prefer a technical documentary on > exactly how the cars were designed, built, tuned and driven but then you'd > have an audience of maybe a couple thousand people. > > ps. I thought the 'clunk' they Foleyed-in for gearchanges didn't sound > realistic, but I've never driven a GT40 so who knows. > > > On 12/18/2019 6:38 AM, Stephen Hutchings wrote: > > I too remember that in the film they seemed to be swapping out the entire > upright assembly. > If you want to watch a good film about that era, see ?Shelby American? on > Netflix. > I wasn?t at all impressed by ?Ford VS Ferrari??just another Hollywood > treatment full of ridiculous inaccuracies. > They?re still using that old 1950?s ?B? movie technique where two drivers > are supposed to be approaching the end of the Mulsanne straight at very > high speed, and they have time to glare at one another! > And apparently all you have to do to overtake is gear down and press the > accelerator. > I know it?s Hollywood, but sheesh! > > Stephen, BJ8 > > On Dec 18, 2019, at 12:51 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > In the movie, although there wasn't much technical explanation, it > appeared that they removed and replaced the entire suspension upright > assembly with new stub axles, hubs, rotors and calipers in place. I was > thinking they must have used some kind of quick connect on the brake lines > with a quick bleeder in place. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------ > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Dec 19 19:48:29 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 02:48:29 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation References: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> ? ? ?Going off the reservation a bit.? This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic.? Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery.? The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio.? I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store.? At least I can drive it over the winter months.?? ? ?What kind of insurance should I get for this car?? Classic car insurance?? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car.? I don't have room for it in my garage.? What's a good car cover?? ? ?Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2.? That won't changeMike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Thu Dec 19 20:22:08 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2019 19:22:08 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation In-Reply-To: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> References: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I bought a 67 B for me to restore for my wife. Many of us own various marwues, nit all British. Hagerty insures all of my classic cars. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Thu, Dec 19, 2019, 6:49 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > Going off the reservation a bit. This Saturday I am picking up a > 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic. Only two problems with it > are a 2018 registration and a weak battery. The engine has a Weber side > draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio. I wanted something I > could lock up when I go in the store. At least I can drive it over the > winter months. > What kind of insurance should I get for this car? Classic car > insurance? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car. I don't > have room for it in my garage. What's a good car cover? > Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2. That won't change > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From engl at accesscomm.ca Fri Dec 20 06:38:27 2019 From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 07:38:27 -0600 Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation In-Reply-To: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> References: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00d601d5b73a$c8f8c370$5aea4a50$@ca> Good Morning Mike Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car. I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. Bob ?65 BJ8 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation Going off the reservation a bit. This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic. Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery. The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio. I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store. At least I can drive it over the winter months. What kind of insurance should I get for this car? Classic car insurance? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car. I don't have room for it in my garage. What's a good car cover? Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2. That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john at jtkarowe.com.au Thu Dec 19 23:10:07 2019 From: john at jtkarowe.com.au (John Rowe) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 16:10:07 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari In-Reply-To: References: <7ea077d5-9b19-401f-b7c6-e3dfd880ff40@me.com> <1536766c-68c8-fbf4-3d64-ba307efac280@comcast.net> <1029259835.8890425.1576348918081@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003401d5b6fc$22e90cd0$68bb2670$@com.au> V8 Supercars in Australia have the rotor and caliper/linings assembly complete for quick change. They are full of fluid, bled, have quick change connection on the brake line and can be swapped out in 29 seconds per wheel. John Rowe Qld Australia -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter Dzwig Sent: Friday, 20 December 2019 7:53 AM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE; Alan Seigrist; jim Cc: Healey list Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari Actually guys, isn't there anyone on the list who was involved in some way? or has a fiend who was? So that we know what was done. In the nicest possible way, if you do ask them and put us out of our misery! All the best, Peter PS Yes, I did have a friend who worked on a couple of the GT40s in later years and was part of the 567 record-breaker resurrection team at one point, but he appears to have disappeared off the face of the earth! On 18/12/2019 05:51, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > In the movie, although there wasn't much technical explanation, it > appeared that they removed and replaced the entire suspension upright > assembly with new stub axles, hubs, rotors and calipers in place. I was > thinking they must have used some kind of quick connect on the brake > lines with a quick bleeder in place. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Healeys on behalf of Alan > Seigrist > *Sent:* Wednesday, December 18, 2019 3:22 AM > *To:* jim > *Cc:* Healey list > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Ford versus Ferrari > ? > as long as you are removing the brake pads and not the calipers, no need > bleed anything.? Honestly with some practice on the BJ8, with a full pit > crew, you could probably remove and replace the rotors and pads in 5 min > or less if assemblies were ready. > > > On Sun, Dec 15, 2019 at 2:43 AM jim via Healeys > wrote: > > Changing "rotors" ..Changing "pads" ...Changing "calipers" ...Not > equivalent > > ?the ONLY time I need to open the fluid lines is when I have to > change "calipers" > > All the caliper change directions I have seen advise to prefill/pre > bleed caliper before fitting > > Heat? ...Use a CO2 extinguisher (you do have a current certified one > in your shop) ...I do > > change pads .. c clamp to press piston back into caliper (use a > large screwdriver/pry bar if you are changing pads/rotors) > fluid will flow back into reservoir ...If you don't want the crud > from the caliper back into the system, crack the bleeder valve.. > ditto for changing rotors > > Remove 2 pins to change pads//remove 2 bolts to change rotors/pads > > suspend "caliper" from ? to avoid kinking/twisting flex line > > remove/replace rotors .. > > remove/replace pads .. > > Piece o' cake (go to Les Schwab and watch how they do it) > > Jim > > > > > On Friday, December 13, 2019, 5:01:27 PM UTC, Bob Spidell > > wrote: > > > I wondered that myself.?? Maybe some sort of check valve on the > brake lines and pre-filled calipers, allowing bleeding with just a > couple quick pumps on the brake pedal? > > Of course, it was a movie, so maybe it was the figment of some > screenpaly writer's imagination? > > Bob > > On 12/13/2019 7:01 AM, Linwood Rose via Healeys wrote: >> For those who saw the movie "Ford versus Ferrari." On the Phil >> Remington quick change rotor/caliper assembly, how do they avoid >> having to bleed the brakes? >> Just curious. >> >> Lin >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com > -- Dr. Peter Dzwig _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/john at jtkarowe.com.au From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri Dec 20 12:05:35 2019 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 11:05:35 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Optimal lighting form a BN1 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0bfc01d5b768$778340f0$6689c2d0$@roadrunner.com> I have standard incandescent bulbs in the front running/turn lamps and rear tail/brake/turn lamps, but I converted my reflectors to stop/turn lamps, first using halogens years ago, and now LEDs (1157-R24-WV: 1157 Red 100 degrees from superbrightleds.com). I just received the LED headlight kit from Little British Car Co this week, and will be installing them this weekend. I also have a set of Lucas reproduction aux lamps, one spot and one fog. I am considering an LED conversion for these using this bulb https://www.amazon.com/CIIHON-360%C2%B0Beam-Waterproof-3535SMD-Replacement/dp/B07Y4R31PF/ref=asc_df_B07Y4R31PF/?tag=hyprod-20 &linkCode=df0&hvadid=385553892364&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16082317530895713669&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1013613&hvtargid=pla-836455333643&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=80170967178&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385553892364&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16082317530895713669&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1013613&hvtargid=pla-836455333643 though it will require some modification to the lamp to mount the bulbs, probably drilling a small hole for a sheet metal screw to secure the bulbs into the flange in the lamp housing, with a ring connector and lead for the ground and a new spade connection for the positive. I also converted my dash lights to LED some years ago using the LEDs from British Car Specialists. Unfortunately, those bulbs did not tolerate the vibration well, and started to fail from loose connections after a couple of years. I replaced them when I rewired the car a couple of years ago using six E10 screw base short round 1 LED, SKU 87965W, from LEDLight.com. I used 1 in the speedo and tach (though I considered drilling a second hole to use 2 in each), the fuel and safety gauges, and the trafficator indicator. I initially tried one in the generator lamp, but had trouble with that. I also have an ammeter under the heater control that required a fabricated setup using a couple of flat LEDs I got at the local electronics store. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2019 5:39 AM To: Austin Healey Subject: [Healeys] Optimal lighting form a BN1 As a winter project I would like to upgrade my 100's lighting to provide for optimal brightness all around and would like to get on one piece of paper bulb recommendations to provide maximum lighting: Headlights, sidelights, twin 576 driving lights and dash lights. Lighting fixtures are stock except that I have illuminated the rear reflector pods to function as turn signals which have plastic conical lenses In making recommendations please include relay recommendations and/or where wiring may need to be upgraded. Charging capacity is not a consideration as I have a 75 amp alternator. Thanks in advance--Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Fri Dec 20 12:08:47 2019 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 11:08:47 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation In-Reply-To: <00d601d5b73a$c8f8c370$5aea4a50$@ca> References: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> <00d601d5b73a$c8f8c370$5aea4a50$@ca> Message-ID: <0c2201d5b768$e9be9200$bd3bb600$@roadrunner.com> My Hagerty policy does not have a mileage limitation, and the only limitation is not racing it. As for car covers, I like California Car Cover. Wide selection of choices for indoor and outdoor protection. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:38 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation Good Morning Mike Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car. I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. Bob ?65 BJ8 From: Healeys [ mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation Going off the reservation a bit. This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic. Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery. The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio. I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store. At least I can drive it over the winter months. What kind of insurance should I get for this car? Classic car insurance? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car. I don't have room for it in my garage. What's a good car cover? Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2. That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Dec 20 12:25:57 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 19:25:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation In-Reply-To: <0c2201d5b768$e9be9200$bd3bb600$@roadrunner.com> References: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> <00d601d5b73a$c8f8c370$5aea4a50$@ca> <0c2201d5b768$e9be9200$bd3bb600$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <674649706.2033958.1576869957312@mail.yahoo.com> OK, I will check out California Car Covers.. Seems to be a consensus there.? I just got off the phone with both Hagerty and my present insurance provider for my Bugeye, JC Taylor.? Hagerty wanted $147 per year full coverage.? I gave them a value of $6000.? Just what I am paying for the car.? To add it to my present policy with JC Taylor is an additional $67 per year.? Kind of a no brainer.? Although JC Taylor has a 4000 mile per year limit it should not be a problem.? My Bugeye is lucky to get 500 miles per year these days.? Splitting the mileage between the two should keep it under anyway. Mike MacLean On Friday, December 20, 2019, 11:11:52 AM PST, Bruce Steele wrote: #yiv0564602219 #yiv0564602219 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv0564602219 #yiv0564602219 p.yiv0564602219MsoNormal, #yiv0564602219 li.yiv0564602219MsoNormal, #yiv0564602219 div.yiv0564602219MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New serif;}#yiv0564602219 a:link, #yiv0564602219 span.yiv0564602219MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0564602219 a:visited, #yiv0564602219 span.yiv0564602219MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0564602219 span.yiv0564602219EmailStyle17 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}#yiv0564602219 span.yiv0564602219EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv0564602219 .yiv0564602219MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv0564602219 div.yiv0564602219WordSection1 {}#yiv0564602219 My Hagerty policy does not have a mileage limitation, and the only limitation is not racing it.? As for car covers, I like California Car Cover.? Wide selection of choices for indoor and outdoor protection.? ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:38 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? Good Morning Mike ? Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car.? I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. ? Bob ?65 BJ8 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? ? ? ?Going off the reservation a bit.? This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic.? Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery.? The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio.? I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store.? At least I can drive it over the winter months.? ? ? ?What kind of insurance should I get for this car?? Classic car insurance?? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car.? I don't have room for it in my garage.? What's a good car cover? ? ? ?Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2.? That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Dec 20 14:21:30 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 21:21:30 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windscreen Asseembly References: <159430502.2065194.1576876890150.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <159430502.2065194.1576876890150@mail.yahoo.com> I have decided to get my windscreen pillars polished instead of painting them.? So, now I can assemble the re-chromed windscreen frame and glass.? I have two questions for the list.? For those of you that assembled a 100 windscreen, did you use an adhesive or a lubricant on the glazing rubber strip between the rubber and the glass and/or the rubber and the frame?? Next question, what did you use for a filler strip, size, hard rubber, soft rubber?? Does it go all the way around?? Is there an assembly tutorial available anywhere? OK< that's another question, but I did not want to send another email. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Fri Dec 20 14:30:33 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 21:30:33 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windscreen Asseembly In-Reply-To: <159430502.2065194.1576876890150@mail.yahoo.com> References: <159430502.2065194.1576876890150.ref@mail.yahoo.com>, <159430502.2065194.1576876890150@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael, I don?t use anything between the glazing and the windshield nor anything between the glazing and the frame. I would imagine that you have the correct thickness of glass, then you go to a glass/windshield shop and purchase a roll of partial roll of their glazing, usually they have two or three thickness, get the one suitable for your use and put it all around cutting at an angle at each corner. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: December 20, 2019 3:21 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windscreen Asseembly I have decided to get my windscreen pillars polished instead of painting them. So, now I can assemble the re-chromed windscreen frame and glass. I have two questions for the list. For those of you that assembled a 100 windscreen, did you use an adhesive or a lubricant on the glazing rubber strip between the rubber and the glass and/or the rubber and the frame? Next question, what did you use for a filler strip, size, hard rubber, soft rubber? Does it go all the way around? Is there an assembly tutorial available anywhere? OK< that's another question, but I did not want to send another email. Mike MacLean -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ronfineesq at earthlink.net Fri Dec 20 15:30:30 2019 From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 14:30:30 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation In-Reply-To: <674649706.2033958.1576869957312@mail.yahoo.com> References: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> <00d601d5b73a$c8f8c370$5aea4a50$@ca> <0c2201d5b768$e9be9200$bd3bb600$@roadrunner.com> <674649706.2033958.1576869957312@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2F5569414D1B4854950FC1C65D44A38C@Inspiron660> I don?t know about JC Taylor, but Hagerty (on my Healey) has an ?agreed value? policy which pays the agreed value in the event of a total loss. You don?t have to argue with them what your car is worth. If it?s a total, you get the value you paid for with the insurance. Ron Fine From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 11:25 AM To: 'Bob England' ; 'Healeys' ; Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation OK, I will check out California Car Covers.. Seems to be a consensus there. I just got off the phone with both Hagerty and my present insurance provider for my Bugeye, JC Taylor. Hagerty wanted $147 per year full coverage. I gave them a value of $6000. Just what I am paying for the car. To add it to my present policy with JC Taylor is an additional $67 per year. Kind of a no brainer. Although JC Taylor has a 4000 mile per year limit it should not be a problem. My Bugeye is lucky to get 500 miles per year these days. Splitting the mileage between the two should keep it under anyway. Mike MacLean On Friday, December 20, 2019, 11:11:52 AM PST, Bruce Steele wrote: My Hagerty policy does not have a mileage limitation, and the only limitation is not racing it. As for car covers, I like California Car Cover. Wide selection of choices for indoor and outdoor protection. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:38 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation Good Morning Mike Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car. I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. Bob ?65 BJ8 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation Going off the reservation a bit. This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic. Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery. The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio. I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store. At least I can drive it over the winter months. What kind of insurance should I get for this car? Classic car insurance? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car. I don't have room for it in my garage. What's a good car cover? Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2. That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Dec 20 15:38:49 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 17:38:49 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windscreen Asseembly In-Reply-To: <159430502.2065194.1576876890150@mail.yahoo.com> References: <159430502.2065194.1576876890150.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <159430502.2065194.1576876890150@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: FWIW in my experience 100 windshields are a real PITA. The corner bracket sets sold by the usual suspects are pitiful which does not help matters. You need to install spacers, as you asked, between the frame and the glazing rubber. Determine the required thickness by measuring. I use hardwood strips about 1 1/2" long. The glazing rubber is meant to be coated with engine oil during installation which is meant to make it swell to tighten things up. Take your time and be patient. IMHO it is one of the most difficult parts of a 100 restoration particularly if the components are not an original set. M On Fri, Dec 20, 2019, 4:21 PM Michael MacLean, wrote: > I have decided to get my windscreen pillars polished instead of painting > them. So, now I can assemble the re-chromed windscreen frame and glass. I > have two questions for the list. For those of you that assembled a 100 > windscreen, did you use an adhesive or a lubricant on the glazing rubber > strip between the rubber and the glass and/or the rubber and the frame? > Next question, what did you use for a filler strip, size, hard rubber, soft > rubber? Does it go all the way around? Is there an assembly tutorial > available anywhere? OK< that's another question, but I did not want to send > another email. > Mike MacLean > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Dec 20 16:58:20 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 13:58:20 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] From the archives References: <40892B83-4BED-41DD-BA55-7212F29F47E7.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <40892B83-4BED-41DD-BA55-7212F29F47E7@aol.com> Anyone recall this smiling face? -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5752.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 60304 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Perry Sent from my iPhone From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Fri Dec 20 17:38:15 2019 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 16:38:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Windscreen Asseembly In-Reply-To: References: <159430502.2065194.1576876890150.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <159430502.2065194.1576876890150@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1fpqve1r8alv0umo6o52qoq24u2tvkgsh7@4ax.com> I second Michael's comments and suggestions. R&R-ing BN1 engine and transmission solo was a piece of cake compared to getting the windscreen together with all the glass and rubber in place. I ended up getting experienced help. I remember an early trial fitting many years ago. I ended up holding the assembly together lying on the garage floor with the assembly 'clamped' between my arms and the tops of my feet while I fit (fought?) the tiny screws into place. When it was time for the final assembly I was too old to try that again. -Roland BN1 #724, now road ready On Fri, 20 Dec 2019 17:38:49 -0500, Michael wrote: >FWIW in my experience 100 windshields are a real PITA. >The corner bracket sets sold by the usual suspects are pitiful which does >not help matters. >You need to install spacers, as you asked, between the frame and the >glazing rubber. Determine the required thickness by measuring. I use >hardwood strips about 1 1/2" long. >The glazing rubber is meant to be coated with engine oil during >installation which is meant to make it swell to tighten things up. >Take your time and be patient. >IMHO it is one of the most difficult parts of a 100 restoration >particularly if the components are not an original set. > >M From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Dec 20 18:49:22 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2019 01:49:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation In-Reply-To: <2F5569414D1B4854950FC1C65D44A38C@Inspiron660> References: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> <00d601d5b73a$c8f8c370$5aea4a50$@ca> <0c2201d5b768$e9be9200$bd3bb600$@roadrunner.com> <674649706.2033958.1576869957312@mail.yahoo.com> <2F5569414D1B4854950FC1C65D44A38C@Inspiron660> Message-ID: <236403686.2173014.1576892962962@mail.yahoo.com> Same conditions for JC Taylor.Mike M Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 2:29 PM, Ron Fine wrote: I don?t know about JC Taylor, but Hagerty (on my Healey) has an ?agreed value? policy which pays the agreed value in the event of a total loss. You don?t have to argue with them what your car is worth.? If it?s a total, you get the value you paid for with the insurance.? ?Ron Fine???From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 11:25 AMTo: 'Bob England' ; 'Healeys' ; Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation?OK, I will check out California Car Covers.. Seems to be a consensus there.? I just got off the phone with both Hagerty and my present insurance provider for my Bugeye, JC Taylor.? Hagerty wanted $147 per year full coverage.? I gave them a value of $6000.? Just what I am paying for the car.? To add it to my present policy with JC Taylor is an additional $67 per year.? Kind of a no brainer.? Although JC Taylor has a 4000 mile per year limit it should not be a problem.? My Bugeye is lucky to get 500 miles per year these days.? Splitting the mileage between the two should keep it under anyway. Mike MacLean ?On Friday, December 20, 2019, 11:11:52 AM PST, Bruce Steele wrote: ??#yiv8312541888 -- filtered {}#yiv8312541888 filtered {}#yiv8312541888 filtered {}#yiv8312541888 filtered {}#yiv8312541888 p.yiv8312541888msonormal, #yiv8312541888 li.yiv8312541888msonormal, #yiv8312541888 div.yiv8312541888msonormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:new serif;}#yiv8312541888 a:link, #yiv8312541888 span.yiv8312541888msohyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8312541888 a:visited, #yiv8312541888 span.yiv8312541888msohyperlinkfollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8312541888 span.yiv8312541888emailstyle17 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1f497d;}#yiv8312541888 span.yiv8312541888emailstyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv8312541888 .yiv8312541888msochpdefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv8312541888 filtered {}#yiv8312541888 div.yiv8312541888wordsection1 {}#yiv8312541888 My Hagerty policy does not have a mileage limitation, and the only limitation is not racing it.? As for car covers, I like California Car Cover.? Wide selection of choices for indoor and outdoor protection.? ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:38 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? Good Morning Mike ? Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car.? I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. ? Bob ?65 BJ8 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? ???? Going off the reservation a bit.? This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic.? Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery.? The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio.? I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store.? At least I can drive it over the winter months. ???? What kind of insurance should I get for this car?? Classic car insurance?? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car.? I don't have room for it in my garage.? What's a good car cover? ???? Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2.? That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rv9aplane at gmail.com Fri Dec 20 18:55:50 2019 From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 17:55:50 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers Message-ID: <04D67352-D421-4F77-B562-7B3271E40E73@gmail.com> Hey all, So what is the trick to get the rubber pieces into the bracket for the windshield wiper mounting??? Without destroying them or just giving up and cutting them in half? Thanks, Bruce Sent from my iPad From boyracer466 at gmail.com Fri Dec 20 19:09:28 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 18:09:28 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers In-Reply-To: <04D67352-D421-4F77-B562-7B3271E40E73@gmail.com> References: <04D67352-D421-4F77-B562-7B3271E40E73@gmail.com> Message-ID: I just went through this earlier this year. They are impossible to get into the holes. I posted the same question and got a number of answers. The answer that worked best for me was to cut the rubber grommet half way through, on the side, at an angle, from top to bottom. This way you can screw the grommet into the hole. On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 5:55 PM Bruce Peters wrote: > Hey all, > So what is the trick to get the rubber pieces into the bracket for the > windshield wiper mounting??? Without destroying them or just giving up and > cutting them in half? > > Thanks, Bruce > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rv9aplane at gmail.com Fri Dec 20 19:29:37 2019 From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 18:29:37 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49B62341-9774-4AC9-906B-AEA4AC41137C@gmail.com> Thank you Richard, that makes sense. Sent from my iPad > On Dec 20, 2019, at 6:09 PM, richard mayor wrote: > > ? > I just went through this earlier this year. They are impossible to get into the holes. I posted the same question and got a number of answers. The answer that worked best for me was to cut the rubber grommet half way through, on the side, at an angle, from top to bottom. This way you can screw the grommet into the hole. > >> On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 5:55 PM Bruce Peters wrote: >> Hey all, >> So what is the trick to get the rubber pieces into the bracket for the windshield wiper mounting??? Without destroying them or just giving up and cutting them in half? >> >> Thanks, Bruce >> >> Sent from my iPad >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Dec 20 22:23:24 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 19:23:24 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers In-Reply-To: <04D67352-D421-4F77-B562-7B3271E40E73@gmail.com> References: <04D67352-D421-4F77-B562-7B3271E40E73@gmail.com> Message-ID: <6B7C9A67-23F3-4971-A19C-11BB3DCF2C8C@aol.com> Bruce It really has everything to do with the flexibility of the rubber. The factory replacement parts In the 1960?s /70?s were very flexible and you could squeeze them through the hole easily. At that point the rubber bushes on a ten year old car had harden and broke frequently. Many of the later aftermarket parts are too hard to start with. Suggest slobbering some vasoline or other rubber lube on the bush then squeeze and push to get into position. If it breaks try another. Wipe up the excess goo and slide the stud through. Don?t forget the flat washers. Perry Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 20, 2019, at 3:56 PM, Bruce Peters wrote: > > ?Hey all, > So what is the trick to get the rubber pieces into the bracket for the windshield wiper mounting??? Without destroying them or just giving up and cutting them in half? > > Thanks, Bruce > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Dec 20 22:23:24 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 19:23:24 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers In-Reply-To: <04D67352-D421-4F77-B562-7B3271E40E73@gmail.com> References: <04D67352-D421-4F77-B562-7B3271E40E73@gmail.com> Message-ID: <6B7C9A67-23F3-4971-A19C-11BB3DCF2C8C@aol.com> Bruce It really has everything to do with the flexibility of the rubber. The factory replacement parts In the 1960?s /70?s were very flexible and you could squeeze them through the hole easily. At that point the rubber bushes on a ten year old car had harden and broke frequently. Many of the later aftermarket parts are too hard to start with. Suggest slobbering some vasoline or other rubber lube on the bush then squeeze and push to get into position. If it breaks try another. Wipe up the excess goo and slide the stud through. Don?t forget the flat washers. Perry Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 20, 2019, at 3:56 PM, Bruce Peters wrote: > > ?Hey all, > So what is the trick to get the rubber pieces into the bracket for the windshield wiper mounting??? Without destroying them or just giving up and cutting them in half? > > Thanks, Bruce > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com > From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Fri Dec 20 23:42:23 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2019 22:42:23 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers In-Reply-To: <04D67352-D421-4F77-B562-7B3271E40E73@gmail.com> References: <04D67352-D421-4F77-B562-7B3271E40E73@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000001d5b7c9$ce045e80$6a0d1b80$@sbcglobal.net> Installed new ones circa 2013 and don't recall any difficulty at all. Must be related to the flexibility of the gourmets and lubrication. You are welcome, John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers Hey all, So what is the trick to get the rubber pieces into the bracket for the windshield wiper mounting??? Without destroying them or just giving up and cutting them in half? Thanks, Bruce Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sat Dec 21 07:38:45 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2019 09:38:45 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers In-Reply-To: <000001d5b7c9$ce045e80$6a0d1b80$@sbcglobal.net> References: <04D67352-D421-4F77-B562-7B3271E40E73@gmail.com> <000001d5b7c9$ce045e80$6a0d1b80$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: "must be related to the flexibility. of the gourmet" Autospell does funny stuff sometimes.... Best--Michael Oritt On Sat, Dec 21, 2019, 1:43 AM John Spaur wrote: > Installed new ones circa 2013 and don't recall any difficulty at all. Must > be related to the flexibility of the gourmets and lubrication. > > You are welcome, John > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce > Peters > Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:56 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers > > Hey all, > So what is the trick to get the rubber pieces into the bracket for the > windshield wiper mounting??? Without destroying them or just giving up and > cutting them in half? > > Thanks, Bruce > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Sat Dec 21 09:03:54 2019 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2019 08:03:54 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers In-Reply-To: <000001d5b7c9$ce045e80$6a0d1b80$@sbcglobal.net> References: <04D67352-D421-4F77-B562-7B3271E40E73@gmail.com> <000001d5b7c9$ce045e80$6a0d1b80$@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <47542AC9693B4254927F4C25D2EA4383@AllInOne> I did this job about 6 months ago. Purchased the rubber grommets from AH Spares. After trying all known lubricants that might help I cut the grommets in half. Harold -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Spaur Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 10:42 PM To: 'Bruce Peters'; healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers Installed new ones circa 2013 and don't recall any difficulty at all. Must be related to the flexibility of the gourmets and lubrication. You are welcome, John -----Original Message----- From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Peters Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:56 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers Hey all, So what is the trick to get the rubber pieces into the bracket for the windshield wiper mounting??? Without destroying them or just giving up and cutting them in half? Thanks, Bruce Sent from my iPad _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net From coudesluijs at chello.nl Sat Dec 21 09:42:05 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2019 17:42:05 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers In-Reply-To: <47542AC9693B4254927F4C25D2EA4383@AllInOne> References: <04D67352-D421-4F77-B562-7B3271E40E73@gmail.com> <000001d5b7c9$ce045e80$6a0d1b80$@sbcglobal.net> <47542AC9693B4254927F4C25D2EA4383@AllInOne> Message-ID: <40728eac-8b0e-8130-80ff-7ee5bc1f989a@chello.nl> Heating up the grommets in hot soapy water may help as it softens the rubber and lubricates as well. Kees Oudesluijs Op 21-12-2019 om 17:03 schreef Harold Manifold: > I did this job about 6 months ago. Purchased the rubber grommets from AH > Spares. After trying all known lubricants that might help I cut the grommets > in half. > > Harold > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John > Spaur > Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 10:42 PM > To: 'Bruce Peters'; healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers > > Installed new ones circa 2013 and don't recall any difficulty at all. Must > be related to the flexibility of the gourmets and lubrication. > > You are welcome, John > > -----Original Message----- > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce > Peters > Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:56 PM > To: healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Wiper mounting rubbers > > Hey all, > So what is the trick to get the rubber pieces into the bracket for the > windshield wiper mounting??? Without destroying them or just giving up and > cutting them in half? > > Thanks, Bruce > > Sent from my iPad > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation > $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > From bspidell at comcast.net Sat Dec 21 19:27:37 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2019 18:27:37 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] From the archives In-Reply-To: <40892B83-4BED-41DD-BA55-7212F29F47E7@aol.com> References: <40892B83-4BED-41DD-BA55-7212F29F47E7.ref@aol.com> <40892B83-4BED-41DD-BA55-7212F29F47E7@aol.com> Message-ID: <07195205-aa71-59e3-0aad-317dbb09b988@comcast.net> OK, I'll bite.? Looks like an Aussie--the hat--but Dave Russell is the only name that comes to my mind. On 12/20/2019 3:58 PM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: > Anyone recall this smiling face? > > From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Dec 21 21:59:37 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Sat, 21 Dec 2019 18:59:37 -1000 Subject: [Healeys] From the archives References: <7989E874-B89B-4EF2-A0D8-37DC3827F4E0.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <7989E874-B89B-4EF2-A0D8-37DC3827F4E0@aol.com> Roland said: It's either Cass Cacciatori or his brother. A long time member of the San Diego Healey club but I haven't seen him for a couple of years. He also loves to dance and likes Dixieland music. Roland I have come across some old photos and although the face of Cass looked very familiar I could not connect with a name or location. San Diego Austin Healey meet years ago! Perry Sent from my iPhone From ynotink at msn.com Sun Dec 22 00:20:16 2019 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 07:20:16 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation In-Reply-To: <236403686.2173014.1576892962962@mail.yahoo.com> References: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> <00d601d5b73a$c8f8c370$5aea4a50$@ca> <0c2201d5b768$e9be9200$bd3bb600$@roadrunner.com> <674649706.2033958.1576869957312@mail.yahoo.com> <2F5569414D1B4854950FC1C65D44A38C@Inspiron660>, <236403686.2173014.1576892962962@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I'm not sure any of these companies will insure a car unless it is garaged. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2019 1:49 AM To: ronfineesq at earthlink.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation Same conditions for JC Taylor. Mike M Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 2:29 PM, Ron Fine wrote: I don?t know about JC Taylor, but Hagerty (on my Healey) has an ?agreed value? policy which pays the agreed value in the event of a total loss. You don?t have to argue with them what your car is worth. If it?s a total, you get the value you paid for with the insurance. Ron Fine From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 11:25 AM To: 'Bob England' ; 'Healeys' ; Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation OK, I will check out California Car Covers.. Seems to be a consensus there. I just got off the phone with both Hagerty and my present insurance provider for my Bugeye, JC Taylor. Hagerty wanted $147 per year full coverage. I gave them a value of $6000. Just what I am paying for the car. To add it to my present policy with JC Taylor is an additional $67 per year. Kind of a no brainer. Although JC Taylor has a 4000 mile per year limit it should not be a problem. My Bugeye is lucky to get 500 miles per year these days. Splitting the mileage between the two should keep it under anyway. Mike MacLean On Friday, December 20, 2019, 11:11:52 AM PST, Bruce Steele wrote: My Hagerty policy does not have a mileage limitation, and the only limitation is not racing it. As for car covers, I like California Car Cover. Wide selection of choices for indoor and outdoor protection. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:38 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation Good Morning Mike Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car. I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. Bob ?65 BJ8 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation Going off the reservation a bit. This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic. Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery. The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio. I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store. At least I can drive it over the winter months. What kind of insurance should I get for this car? Classic car insurance? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car. I don't have room for it in my garage. What's a good car cover? Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2. That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Dec 22 08:07:04 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:07:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] From the archives In-Reply-To: <07195205-aa71-59e3-0aad-317dbb09b988@comcast.net> References: <40892B83-4BED-41DD-BA55-7212F29F47E7.ref@aol.com> <40892B83-4BED-41DD-BA55-7212F29F47E7@aol.com> <07195205-aa71-59e3-0aad-317dbb09b988@comcast.net> Message-ID: For sure that's not Dave Russell. On Sat, Dec 21, 2019 at 9:28 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > OK, I'll bite. Looks like an Aussie--the hat--but Dave Russell is the > only name that comes to my mind. > > On 12/20/2019 3:58 PM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: > > Anyone recall this smiling face? > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Sun Dec 22 08:09:31 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 10:09:31 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] From the archives In-Reply-To: References: <40892B83-4BED-41DD-BA55-7212F29F47E7.ref@aol.com> <40892B83-4BED-41DD-BA55-7212F29F47E7@aol.com> <07195205-aa71-59e3-0aad-317dbb09b988@comcast.net> Message-ID: For an image of Dave go here: https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?561-AH-100-Chassis-and-Engine-Numbers Best--Michael Oritt On Sun, Dec 22, 2019 at 10:07 AM Michael Oritt wrote: > For sure that's not Dave Russell. > > On Sat, Dec 21, 2019 at 9:28 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > >> OK, I'll bite. Looks like an Aussie--the hat--but Dave Russell is the >> only name that comes to my mind. >> >> On 12/20/2019 3:58 PM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote: >> > Anyone recall this smiling face? >> > >> > >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Dec 22 11:06:15 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 18:06:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation In-Reply-To: References: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> <00d601d5b73a$c8f8c370$5aea4a50$@ca> <0c2201d5b768$e9be9200$bd3bb600$@roadrunner.com> <674649706.2033958.1576869957312@mail.yahoo.com> <2F5569414D1B4854950FC1C65D44A38C@Inspiron660> <236403686.2173014.1576892962962@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <498986980.2563470.1577037975035@mail.yahoo.com> That is true Bill.? JC Taylor requires it being garaged and you own a regular commuter car, and limited to approximately 4000 miles a year.Mike M On Saturday, December 21, 2019, 11:20:20 PM PST, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: #yiv1594502387 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}I'm not sure any of these companies will insure a car unless it is garaged. Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2019 1:49 AM To: ronfineesq at earthlink.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation?Same conditions for JC Taylor.Mike M Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 2:29 PM, Ron Fine wrote:I don?t know about JC Taylor, but Hagerty (on my Healey) has an ?agreed value? policy which pays the agreed value in the event of a total loss. You don?t have to argue with them what your car is worth.? If it?s a total, you get the value you paid for with the insurance.? ?Ron Fine???From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 11:25 AMTo: 'Bob England' ;'Healeys' ; Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation?OK, I will check out California Car Covers.. Seems to be a consensus there.? I just got off the phone with both Hagerty and my present insurance provider for my Bugeye, JC Taylor.? Hagerty wanted $147 per year full coverage.? I gave them a value of $6000.? Just what I am paying for the car.? To add it to my present policy with JC Taylor is an additional $67 per year.? Kind of a no brainer.? Although JC Taylor has a 4000 mile per year limit it should not be a problem.? My Bugeye is lucky to get 500 miles per year these days.? Splitting the mileage between the two should keep it under anyway. Mike MacLean ?On Friday, December 20, 2019, 11:11:52 AM PST, Bruce Steele wrote:??#yiv1594502387 #yiv1594502387 --#yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888 p.yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888msonormal, #yiv1594502387 #yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888 li.yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888msonormal, #yiv1594502387 #yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888 div.yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888msonormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:new serif;}#yiv1594502387 #yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888 a:link, #yiv1594502387 #yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888 span.yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888msohyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1594502387 #yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888 a:visited, #yiv1594502387 #yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888 span.yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888msohyperlinkfollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1594502387 #yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888 span.yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888emailstyle17 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1f497d;}#yiv1594502387 #yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888 span.yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888emailstyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv1594502387 #yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888 .yiv1594502387x_yiv8312541888msochpdefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv1594502387 My Hagerty policy does not have a mileage limitation, and the only limitation is not racing it.? As for car covers, I like California Car Cover.? Wide selection of choices for indoor and outdoor protection.? ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:38 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? Good Morning Mike ? Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car.? I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. ? Bob ?65 BJ8 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? ???? Going off the reservation a bit.? This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic.? Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery.? The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio.? I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store.? At least I can drive it over the winter months. ???? What kind of insurance should I get for this car?? Classic car insurance?? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car.? I don't have room for it in my garage.? What's a good car cover? ???? Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2.? That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Sun Dec 22 13:57:25 2019 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 12:57:25 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation In-Reply-To: References: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> <00d601d5b73a$c8f8c370$5aea4a50$@ca> <0c2201d5b768$e9be9200$bd3bb600$@roadrunner.com> <674649706.2033958.1576869957312@mail.yahoo.com> <2F5569414D1B4854950FC1C65D44A38C@Inspiron660>, <236403686.2173014.1576892962962@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0CCC024BC67F44DD875A2F771ACA2426@LeonardPCPC> And some require that in addition to the insured classic car, you must include a non-classic car for each driving member in the family. (The Other) Len Fairfield, CA, USA 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 ----- Original Message ----- From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE To: Michael MacLean ; ronfineesq at earthlink.net ; Healeys Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2019 11:20 PM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation I'm not sure any of these companies will insure a car unless it is garaged. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2019 1:49 AM To: ronfineesq at earthlink.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation Same conditions for JC Taylor. Mike M Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 2:29 PM, Ron Fine wrote: I don?t know about JC Taylor, but Hagerty (on my Healey) has an ?agreed value? policy which pays the agreed value in the event of a total loss. You don?t have to argue with them what your car is worth. If it?s a total, you get the value you paid for with the insurance. Ron Fine From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 11:25 AM To: 'Bob England' ; 'Healeys' ; Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation OK, I will check out California Car Covers.. Seems to be a consensus there. I just got off the phone with both Hagerty and my present insurance provider for my Bugeye, JC Taylor. Hagerty wanted $147 per year full coverage. I gave them a value of $6000. Just what I am paying for the car. To add it to my present policy with JC Taylor is an additional $67 per year. Kind of a no brainer. Although JC Taylor has a 4000 mile per year limit it should not be a problem. My Bugeye is lucky to get 500 miles per year these days. Splitting the mileage between the two should keep it under anyway. Mike MacLean On Friday, December 20, 2019, 11:11:52 AM PST, Bruce Steele wrote: My Hagerty policy does not have a mileage limitation, and the only limitation is not racing it. As for car covers, I like California Car Cover. Wide selection of choices for indoor and outdoor protection. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:38 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation Good Morning Mike Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car. I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. Bob ?65 BJ8 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation Going off the reservation a bit. This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic. Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery. The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio. I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store. At least I can drive it over the winter months. What kind of insurance should I get for this car? Classic car insurance? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car. I don't have room for it in my garage. What's a good car cover? Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2. That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rv9aplane at gmail.com Sun Dec 22 14:49:57 2019 From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 13:49:57 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Fuel Tank Straps Message-ID: <8A77B962-B4BE-4763-8D7B-B07BB0B6D34C@gmail.com> Hi Listers, I bought the replacement fuel tank from Moss as my original one was junk. The original hold down straps are way too big. If I ordered the replacement straps from Moss will those work or what all have you all done in this situation? Thanks, Bruce Sent from my iPhone From thehartnetts at earthlink.net Sun Dec 22 15:23:29 2019 From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 14:23:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation In-Reply-To: <498986980.2563470.1577037975035@mail.yahoo.com> References: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> <00d601d5b73a$c8f8c370$5aea4a50$@ca> <0c2201d5b768$e9be9200$bd3bb600$@roadrunner.com> <674649706.2033958.1576869957312@mail.yahoo.com> <2F5569414D1B4854950FC1C65D44A38C@Inspiron660> <236403686.2173014.1576892962962@mail.yahoo.com> <498986980.2563470.1577037975035@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3017F35F511244FB86DDFB1F800C7AB5@LeonardPCPC> I stand corrected if I mis-spoke. Mike is possibly correct when he says, "...a regular commuter car...". One extra may be all that is needed. Len ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE ; Healeys Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2019 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation That is true Bill. JC Taylor requires it being garaged and you own a regular commuter car, and limited to approximately 4000 miles a year. Mike M On Saturday, December 21, 2019, 11:20:20 PM PST, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: I'm not sure any of these companies will insure a car unless it is garaged. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2019 1:49 AM To: ronfineesq at earthlink.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation Same conditions for JC Taylor. Mike M Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 2:29 PM, Ron Fine wrote: I don?t know about JC Taylor, but Hagerty (on my Healey) has an ?agreed value? policy which pays the agreed value in the event of a total loss. You don?t have to argue with them what your car is worth. If it?s a total, you get the value you paid for with the insurance. Ron Fine From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 11:25 AM To: 'Bob England' ; 'Healeys' ; Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation OK, I will check out California Car Covers.. Seems to be a consensus there. I just got off the phone with both Hagerty and my present insurance provider for my Bugeye, JC Taylor. Hagerty wanted $147 per year full coverage. I gave them a value of $6000. Just what I am paying for the car. To add it to my present policy with JC Taylor is an additional $67 per year. Kind of a no brainer. Although JC Taylor has a 4000 mile per year limit it should not be a problem. My Bugeye is lucky to get 500 miles per year these days. Splitting the mileage between the two should keep it under anyway. Mike MacLean On Friday, December 20, 2019, 11:11:52 AM PST, Bruce Steele wrote: My Hagerty policy does not have a mileage limitation, and the only limitation is not racing it. As for car covers, I like California Car Cover. Wide selection of choices for indoor and outdoor protection. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:38 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation Good Morning Mike Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car. I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. Bob ?65 BJ8 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation Going off the reservation a bit. This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic. Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery. The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio. I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store. At least I can drive it over the winter months. What kind of insurance should I get for this car? Classic car insurance? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car. I don't have room for it in my garage. What's a good car cover? Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2. That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Dec 22 15:25:40 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 22:25:40 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Fuel Tank Straps In-Reply-To: <8A77B962-B4BE-4763-8D7B-B07BB0B6D34C@gmail.com> References: <8A77B962-B4BE-4763-8D7B-B07BB0B6D34C@gmail.com> Message-ID: <803259333.2621968.1577053540224@mail.yahoo.com> Funny Bruce.? I bought the tank for my BN2 from a known Ebay seller (Angelheart Pancho) and my straps from MacGregor are too short.? Now you make me wonder about the Moss straps too.Mike MacLean On Sunday, December 22, 2019, 1:50:09 PM PST, Bruce Peters wrote: Hi Listers, I bought the replacement fuel tank from Moss as my original one was junk. The original hold down straps are way too big. If I ordered the replacement straps from Moss will those work or what all have you all done in this situation? Thanks, Bruce Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sun Dec 22 15:28:39 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 22 Dec 2019 22:28:39 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation In-Reply-To: <3017F35F511244FB86DDFB1F800C7AB5@LeonardPCPC> References: <144827690.1733459.1576810109717.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <144827690.1733459.1576810109717@mail.yahoo.com> <00d601d5b73a$c8f8c370$5aea4a50$@ca> <0c2201d5b768$e9be9200$bd3bb600$@roadrunner.com> <674649706.2033958.1576869957312@mail.yahoo.com> <2F5569414D1B4854950FC1C65D44A38C@Inspiron660> <236403686.2173014.1576892962962@mail.yahoo.com> <498986980.2563470.1577037975035@mail.yahoo.com> <3017F35F511244FB86DDFB1F800C7AB5@LeonardPCPC> Message-ID: <1826082926.2617011.1577053719848@mail.yahoo.com> Not to keep this going, but JC Taylor only mentions another regular use car.? I also asked them who could drive it.? They said occasionally anyone with my permission.Mike MacLean On Sunday, December 22, 2019, 2:23:38 PM PST, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote: ?I stand corrected if I mis-spoke. Mike is possibly correct when he says, "...a regular commuter car...". One extra may be all that is needed.?Len? ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE ; Healeys Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2019 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation That is true Bill.? JC Taylor requires it being garaged and you own a regular commuter car, and limited to approximately 4000 miles a year. Mike M On Saturday, December 21, 2019, 11:20:20 PM PST, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: #yiv3451689208 P {MARGIN-TOP:0px;MARGIN-BOTTOM:0px;} I'm not sure any of these companies will insure a car unless it is garaged. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2019 1:49 AM To: ronfineesq at earthlink.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? Same conditions for JC Taylor. Mike M Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 2:29 PM, Ron Fine wrote: I don?t know about JC Taylor, but Hagerty (on my Healey) has an ?agreed value? policy which pays the agreed value in the event of a total loss. You don?t have to argue with them what your car is worth.? If it?s a total, you get the value you paid for with the insurance.? ? Ron Fine ? ? ? From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 11:25 AM To: 'Bob England' ; 'Healeys' ; Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? OK, I will check out California Car Covers.. Seems to be a consensus there.? I just got off the phone with both Hagerty and my present insurance provider for my Bugeye, JC Taylor.? Hagerty wanted $147 per year full coverage.? I gave them a value of $6000.? Just what I am paying for the car.? To add it to my present policy with JC Taylor is an additional $67 per year.? Kind of a no brainer.? Although JC Taylor has a 4000 mile per year limit it should not be a problem.? My Bugeye is lucky to get 500 miles per year these days.? Splitting the mileage between the two should keep it under anyway. Mike MacLean ? On Friday, December 20, 2019, 11:11:52 AM PST, Bruce Steele wrote: ? ? #yiv3451689208 --#yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888 p.yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888msonormal, #yiv3451689208 #yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888 li.yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888msonormal, #yiv3451689208 #yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888 div.yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888msonormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:new serif;}#yiv3451689208 #yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888 a:link, #yiv3451689208 #yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888 span.yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888msohyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3451689208 #yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888 a:visited, #yiv3451689208 #yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888 span.yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888msohyperlinkfollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3451689208 #yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888 span.yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888emailstyle17 {font-family:sans-serif;color:#1f497d;}#yiv3451689208 #yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888 span.yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888emailstyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv3451689208 #yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888 .yiv3451689208x_yiv8312541888msochpdefault {font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv3451689208 My Hagerty policy does not have a mileage limitation, and the only limitation is not racing it.? As for car covers, I like California Car Cover.? Wide selection of choices for indoor and outdoor protection.? ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:38 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? Good Morning Mike ? Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car.? I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. ? Bob ?65 BJ8 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? ???? Going off the reservation a bit.? This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic.? Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery.? The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio.? I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store.? At least I can drive it over the winter months. ???? What kind of insurance should I get for this car?? Classic car insurance?? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car.? I don't have room for it in my garage.? What's a good car cover? ???? Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2.? That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Dec 22 17:04:44 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2019 00:04:44 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Replacement Fuel Tank Straps In-Reply-To: <803259333.2621968.1577053540224@mail.yahoo.com> References: <8A77B962-B4BE-4763-8D7B-B07BB0B6D34C@gmail.com>, <803259333.2621968.1577053540224@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Remove the ?T? bolt from your old straps, get some 18 gauge steel and make your own, the length you need and weld each end, not difficult to do. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael MacLean Sent: December 22, 2019 4:26 PM To: healeys at autox.team.net; Bruce Peters Subject: Re: [Healeys] Replacement Fuel Tank Straps Funny Bruce. I bought the tank for my BN2 from a known Ebay seller (Angelheart Pancho) and my straps from MacGregor are too short. Now you make me wonder about the Moss straps too. Mike MacLean On Sunday, December 22, 2019, 1:50:09 PM PST, Bruce Peters wrote: Hi Listers, I bought the replacement fuel tank from Moss as my original one was junk. The original hold down straps are way too big. If I ordered the replacement straps from Moss will those work or what all have you all done in this situation? Thanks, Bruce Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Sun Dec 22 17:30:48 2019 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2019 00:30:48 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation Message-ID: ? Buyer beware with all insurance on classic/exotic cars as mileage is only part of their limitations. I was a long time user of Leland West. I had a new purchase, had the agreed value, etc and submitted the usual pix of the car in its secure facilities ( my garage). I got a cancellation notice of my entire policy when they saw in one of my photos of one several cars on the 4 post lift in my garage. They would only insure me going forward if I wrote a limitation of liability re any claim which involved my lift. That was on top of all the other limitations of liability they had and going thru the hassle of filling in a questionnaire every 6 months tracking my mileage. So I did draft the waiver for them and immediately sought and found another underwriter to cover my cars and dropped LeLand like a hot potato. I think they have since changed owners or whatever but I never had a claim etc. it?s typical insurance that if there is a risk they either won?t cover it or want exorbitant premiums Stepping off the soap box , caveat emptor: READ THE FINE PRINT ! Regards, Richard C On Dec 22, 2019, at 16:28, Michael MacLean wrote: ? Not to keep this going, but JC Taylor only mentions another regular use car. I also asked them who could drive it. They said occasionally anyone with my permission. Mike MacLean On Sunday, December 22, 2019, 2:23:38 PM PST, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote: I stand corrected if I mis-spoke. Mike is possibly correct when he says, "...a regular commuter car...". One extra may be all that is needed. Len ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE ; Healeys Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2019 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation That is true Bill. JC Taylor requires it being garaged and you own a regular commuter car, and limited to approximately 4000 miles a year. Mike M On Saturday, December 21, 2019, 11:20:20 PM PST, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > wrote: I'm not sure any of these companies will insure a car unless it is garaged. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys > on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2019 1:49 AM To: ronfineesq at earthlink.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation Same conditions for JC Taylor. Mike M Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 2:29 PM, Ron Fine wrote: I don?t know about JC Taylor, but Hagerty (on my Healey) has an ?agreed value? policy which pays the agreed value in the event of a total loss. You don?t have to argue with them what your car is worth. If it?s a total, you get the value you paid for with the insurance. Ron Fine From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 11:25 AM To: 'Bob England' ; 'Healeys' ; Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation OK, I will check out California Car Covers.. Seems to be a consensus there. I just got off the phone with both Hagerty and my present insurance provider for my Bugeye, JC Taylor. Hagerty wanted $147 per year full coverage. I gave them a value of $6000. Just what I am paying for the car. To add it to my present policy with JC Taylor is an additional $67 per year. Kind of a no brainer. Although JC Taylor has a 4000 mile per year limit it should not be a problem. My Bugeye is lucky to get 500 miles per year these days. Splitting the mileage between the two should keep it under anyway. Mike MacLean On Friday, December 20, 2019, 11:11:52 AM PST, Bruce Steele wrote: My Hagerty policy does not have a mileage limitation, and the only limitation is not racing it. As for car covers, I like California Car Cover. Wide selection of choices for indoor and outdoor protection. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:38 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation Good Morning Mike Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car. I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. Bob ?65 BJ8 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation Going off the reservation a bit. This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic. Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery. The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio. I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store. At least I can drive it over the winter months. What kind of insurance should I get for this car? Classic car insurance? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car. I don't have room for it in my garage. What's a good car cover? Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2. That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net ________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Dec 22 17:53:04 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2019 00:53:04 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Unfortunately, the reality is that insurance is only good when you don?t need it. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Richard Collins Sent: December 22, 2019 6:31 PM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? Buyer beware with all insurance on classic/exotic cars as mileage is only part of their limitations. I was a long time user of Leland West. I had a new purchase, had the agreed value, etc and submitted the usual pix of the car in its secure facilities ( my garage). I got a cancellation notice of my entire policy when they saw in one of my photos of one several cars on the 4 post lift in my garage. They would only insure me going forward if I wrote a limitation of liability re any claim which involved my lift. That was on top of all the other limitations of liability they had and going thru the hassle of filling in a questionnaire every 6 months tracking my mileage. So I did draft the waiver for them and immediately sought and found another underwriter to cover my cars and dropped LeLand like a hot potato. I think they have since changed owners or whatever but I never had a claim etc. it?s typical insurance that if there is a risk they either won?t cover it or want exorbitant premiums Stepping off the soap box , caveat emptor: READ THE FINE PRINT ! Regards, Richard C On Dec 22, 2019, at 16:28, Michael MacLean wrote: ? Not to keep this going, but JC Taylor only mentions another regular use car. I also asked them who could drive it. They said occasionally anyone with my permission. Mike MacLean On Sunday, December 22, 2019, 2:23:38 PM PST, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote: I stand corrected if I mis-spoke. Mike is possibly correct when he says, "...a regular commuter car...". One extra may be all that is needed. Len ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE ; Healeys Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2019 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation That is true Bill. JC Taylor requires it being garaged and you own a regular commuter car, and limited to approximately 4000 miles a year. Mike M On Saturday, December 21, 2019, 11:20:20 PM PST, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE > wrote: I'm not sure any of these companies will insure a car unless it is garaged. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 From: Healeys > on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2019 1:49 AM To: ronfineesq at earthlink.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation Same conditions for JC Taylor. Mike M Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 2:29 PM, Ron Fine wrote: I don?t know about JC Taylor, but Hagerty (on my Healey) has an ?agreed value? policy which pays the agreed value in the event of a total loss. You don?t have to argue with them what your car is worth. If it?s a total, you get the value you paid for with the insurance. Ron Fine From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 11:25 AM To: 'Bob England' ; 'Healeys' ; Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation OK, I will check out California Car Covers.. Seems to be a consensus there. I just got off the phone with both Hagerty and my present insurance provider for my Bugeye, JC Taylor. Hagerty wanted $147 per year full coverage. I gave them a value of $6000. Just what I am paying for the car. To add it to my present policy with JC Taylor is an additional $67 per year. Kind of a no brainer. Although JC Taylor has a 4000 mile per year limit it should not be a problem. My Bugeye is lucky to get 500 miles per year these days. Splitting the mileage between the two should keep it under anyway. Mike MacLean On Friday, December 20, 2019, 11:11:52 AM PST, Bruce Steele wrote: My Hagerty policy does not have a mileage limitation, and the only limitation is not racing it. As for car covers, I like California Car Cover. Wide selection of choices for indoor and outdoor protection. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:38 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation Good Morning Mike Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car. I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. Bob ?65 BJ8 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation Going off the reservation a bit. This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic. Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery. The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio. I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store. At least I can drive it over the winter months. What kind of insurance should I get for this car? Classic car insurance? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car. I don't have room for it in my garage. What's a good car cover? Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2. That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 0A6B80EA5C904D5DB85A25A469C8C5FF.png Type: image/png Size: 144 bytes Desc: 0A6B80EA5C904D5DB85A25A469C8C5FF.png URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 8CEB434B1D834AB38457FA69490332C5.png Type: image/png Size: 132 bytes Desc: 8CEB434B1D834AB38457FA69490332C5.png URL: From airtightproductions at icloud.com Sun Dec 22 18:13:01 2019 From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury) Date: Mon, 23 Dec 2019 01:13:01 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation Message-ID: <950f3eb1-8aa4-4766-ac13-3ac73a2c6155@me.com> As far as insurance goes, I have Hagerty, agreed value and had Hagerty on my BN1 and a '68 MGB/GT. Lost both of them in the Camp fire and Hagerty stepped up to the plate, paid both off with no questions and stood with me all the way.? I am very satisfied and still with them. ???My nephew had his hot rod insured with Grundy, went through the same fire and lost his car. Although they did pay in the end, the hoops he had to jump through were enormous. Completely different experience. He switched when he bought a replacement car and is now with Hagerty also. NFI, just happy with them. Steven Kingsbury On December 22, 2019 at 4:53 PM, Jean Caron wrote: Unfortunately, the reality is that insurance is only good when you don?t need it. ? Jean ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Richard Collins Sent: December 22, 2019 6:31 PM To: Michael MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? ? Buyer beware with all insurance on classic/exotic cars as mileage is only part of their limitations. I was a long time user of Leland West. I had a new purchase, had the agreed value, etc and submitted the usual pix of the car in its secure facilities ( my garage). I got a cancellation notice of my entire policy when they saw in one of my photos of one several cars on the 4 post lift in my garage. They would only insure me going forward if I wrote a limitation of liability re any claim which involved my lift. That was on top of all the other limitations of liability they had and going thru the hassle of filling in a questionnaire every 6 months tracking my mileage. So I did draft the waiver for them and immediately sought and found another underwriter to cover my cars and dropped LeLand like a hot potato. I think they have since changed owners or whatever but I never had a claim etc. it?s typical insurance that if there is a risk they either won?t cover it or want exorbitant premiums Stepping off the soap box , caveat emptor: READ THE FINE PRINT ! Regards, Richard C ? On Dec 22, 2019, at 16:28, Michael MacLean wrote: ? Not to keep this going, but JC Taylor only mentions another regular use car.? I also asked them who could drive it.? They said occasionally anyone with my permission. Mike MacLean ? On Sunday, December 22, 2019, 2:23:38 PM PST, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote: ? ? ? I stand corrected if I mis-spoke. Mike is possibly correct when he says, "...a regular commuter car...". One extra may be all that is needed. ? Len ? ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael MacLean To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE ; Healeys Sent: Sunday, December 22, 2019 10:06 AM Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? That is true Bill.? JC Taylor requires it being garaged and you own a regular commuter car, and limited to approximately 4000 miles a year. Mike M ? On Saturday, December 21, 2019, 11:20:20 PM PST, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: ? ? I'm not sure any of these companies will insure a car unless it is garaged. ? Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2019 1:49 AM To: ronfineesq at earthlink.net ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? Same conditions for JC Taylor. Mike M Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android ? On Fri, Dec 20, 2019 at 2:29 PM, Ron Fine wrote: I don?t know about JC Taylor, but Hagerty (on my Healey) has an ?agreed value? policy which pays the agreed value in the event of a total loss. You don?t have to argue with them what your car is worth.? If it?s a total, you get the value you paid for with the insurance.? ? Ron Fine ? ? ? From: Michael MacLean Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 11:25 AM To: 'Bob England' ; 'Healeys' ; Bruce Steele Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? OK, I will check out California Car Covers.. Seems to be a consensus there.? I just got off the phone with both Hagerty and my present insurance provider for my Bugeye, JC Taylor.? Hagerty wanted $147 per year full coverage.? I gave them a value of $6000.? Just what I am paying for the car.? To add it to my present policy with JC Taylor is an additional $67 per year.? Kind of a no brainer.? Although JC Taylor has a 4000 mile per year limit it should not be a problem.? My Bugeye is lucky to get 500 miles per year these days.? Splitting the mileage between the two should keep it under anyway. Mike MacLean ? On Friday, December 20, 2019, 11:11:52 AM PST, Bruce Steele wrote: ? ? My Hagerty policy does not have a mileage limitation, and the only limitation is not racing it.? As for car covers, I like California Car Cover.? Wide selection of choices for indoor and outdoor protection.? ? Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob England Sent: Friday, December 20, 2019 5:38 AM To: rrengineer.mike at att.net; 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? Good Morning Mike ? Some (most?) classic car insurance limits the amount of ?daily driver? activities you can do with your classic car.? I?d check with your insurance broker as he/she should be able to provide you with some good advice on which way to go. ? Bob ?65 BJ8 ? From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: December 19, 2019 8:48 PM To: Healeys Subject: [Healeys] Off Reservation ? ???? Going off the reservation a bit.? This Saturday I am picking up a 1969 MGB GT from a local British car mechanic.? Only two problems with it are a 2018 registration and a weak battery.? The engine has a Weber side draft carb, wire wheels, good paint and no radio.? I wanted something I could lock up when I go in the store.? At least I can drive it over the winter months. ???? What kind of insurance should I get for this car?? Classic car insurance?? Regular insurance will just insure it as an old car.? I don't have room for it in my garage.? What's a good car cover? ???? Don't worry, still have the Bugeye and the BN2.? That won't change Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ronfineesq at earthlink.net ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Dec 24 07:22:48 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2019 09:22:48 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question Message-ID: I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for turn signals). In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about the resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each fixture but it does not specify which power lead. My question is: do I connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal power lead or does it matter? I cannot envision connecting it to both as that would defeat their separate function. TIA....Michael Oritt -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Dec 24 07:58:26 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2019 15:58:26 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3593a73d-af0a-e065-ffcb-dbb65265757f@chello.nl> For the tail and brake lights you should not need "load resistors". You may need them for the indicator lights if you use the original style bi-metal flasher relay. You have to make certain though that the wiring and especially the contacts and fittings are perfectly clean and make 100% contact. If you are going to use the load resistors you need two for each double filament bulb as there are two power leads. Kees Oudesluijs Op 24-12-2019 om 15:22 schreef Michael Oritt: > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for > turn signals).? In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. > > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about > the resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to > each fixture but it does not specify which power lead.? My question > is: ?do I connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the > turn signal power lead or does it matter?? I cannot envision > connecting it to both as that would defeat their separate function. > > TIA....Michael Oritt > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From gilrockwell at gmail.com Tue Dec 24 08:03:33 2019 From: gilrockwell at gmail.com (Gil Rockwell) Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2019 10:03:33 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: <3593a73d-af0a-e065-ffcb-dbb65265757f@chello.nl> References: <3593a73d-af0a-e065-ffcb-dbb65265757f@chello.nl> Message-ID: <004201d5ba6b$501b2180$f0516480$@gmail.com> One correction here, the only lead that needs the resistor is the one that flashes for the turn signal, one on each side. The ?running? light or tail light that comes on with the headlights does not need the resistor as it is not affected by the flasher. I?ve done this for others and it helps for the old ?load dependent? type flasher that has been around forever. If you get a new flasher made for LEDs, then no resistor is needed. Gil 61 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2019 9:58 AM To: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question For the tail and brake lights you should not need "load resistors". You may need them for the indicator lights if you use the original style bi-metal flasher relay. You have to make certain though that the wiring and especially the contacts and fittings are perfectly clean and make 100% contact. If you are going to use the load resistors you need two for each double filament bulb as there are two power leads. Kees Oudesluijs Op 24-12-2019 om 15:22 schreef Michael Oritt: I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for turn signals). In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about the resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each fixture but it does not specify which power lead. My question is: do I connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal power lead or does it matter? I cannot envision connecting it to both as that would defeat their separate function. TIA....Michael Oritt _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Tue Dec 24 08:22:04 2019 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2019 10:22:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to prevent all lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn signal. So connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for > turn signals).? In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. > > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about the > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each > fixture but it does not specify which power lead.? My question is: ?do I > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal > power lead or does it matter?? I cannot envision connecting it to both > as that would defeat their separate function. > > TIA....Michael Oritt > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Dec 24 08:30:16 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2019 10:30:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks all. What Kees says flies in the face of both Moss's (slightly inarticulate) instructions as well as the consensus of the group. I will install ONE resistor in the flasher lead of each lamp, two--not four--resistors total. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:22 AM Bob Haskell wrote: > Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to prevent all > lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn signal. So > connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as > > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament > > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for > > turn signals). In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's > > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. > > > > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about the > > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each > > fixture but it does not specify which power lead. My question is: do I > > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal > > power lead or does it matter? I cannot envision connecting it to both > > as that would defeat their separate function. > > > > TIA....Michael Oritt > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Tue Dec 24 09:02:39 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2019 11:02:39 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: *" What Kees says flies in the face of both Moss's (slightly inarticulate) instructions as well as the consensus of the group"* Quelle surprise !! Actually, just to clear up the terminology, the resistors are required between the green with white tracer wire (21) and ground on both right side lamps and between the green with red tracer wire (18) and ground on both left side lamps. The important terminology is that these resistors *parallel* the turn/brake light filaments to increase the current flow to the 3.2 amps required to make the 42 watt thermal flasher unit operate as designed. My middle name is "pedantic" :-) M On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:30 AM Michael Oritt wrote: > Thanks all. What Kees says flies in the face of both Moss's (slightly > inarticulate) instructions as well as the consensus of the group. > I will install ONE resistor in the flasher lead of each lamp, two--not > four--resistors total. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:22 AM Bob Haskell > wrote: > >> Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to prevent all >> lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn signal. So >> connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >> >> On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: >> > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as >> > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament >> > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for >> > turn signals). In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's >> > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. >> > >> > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about >> the >> > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each >> > fixture but it does not specify which power lead. My question is: do >> I >> > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal >> > power lead or does it matter? I cannot envision connecting it to both >> > as that would defeat their separate function. >> > >> > TIA....Michael Oritt >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Dec 24 10:52:18 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2019 17:52:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1117649506.3282852.1577209938484@mail.yahoo.com> You can get a complete kit for the whole car including an LED flashing unit from Litezupp. https://litezupp.com/epages/ac0e8cab-e6c1-4d6b-ab90-9213bdc3f061.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/ac0e8cab-e6c1-4d6b-ab90-9213bdc3f061/Products/%22AH%20100%20LED%20Kit%22 Mike MacLean On Tuesday, December 24, 2019, 8:03:14 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: "What Kees says flies?in the face of both Moss's (slightly inarticulate) instructions as well?as the consensus of the group" Quelle surprise !! Actually, just to clear up the terminology, the resistors are required between the green with white tracer wire (21) and ground on both right side lamps and between the green with red tracer wire (18) and ground on both left side lamps.The important terminology is that these resistors parallel the turn/brake light filaments to increase the current flow to the 3.2 amps required to make the 42 watt thermal flasher unit operate as designed.? My middle name is "pedantic" :-) M On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:30 AM Michael Oritt wrote: Thanks all.? What Kees says flies?in the face of both Moss's (slightly inarticulate) instructions as well?as the consensus of the group.? I?will?install ONE resistor in the flasher lead of each lamp, two--not four--resistors total. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:22 AM Bob Haskell wrote: Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to prevent all lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn signal.? So connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for > turn signals).? In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. > > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about the > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each > fixture but it does not specify which power lead.? My question is: ?do I > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal > power lead or does it matter?? I cannot envision connecting it to both > as that would defeat their separate function. > > TIA....Michael Oritt > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From manifold at telus.net Tue Dec 24 11:15:39 2019 From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold) Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2019 10:15:39 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: <1117649506.3282852.1577209938484@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1117649506.3282852.1577209938484@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8FCC5BF6AA504FB5BACA0790FCC945FC@AllInOne> Hello, I have a mechanical background and find all these electrons confusing at times. My electrical knowledge is limited to "as soon as you let the smoke escape from any electrical system it doesn't work anymore". I am in the process of restoring my car and have purchased LED headlights and interior lights and was planning to stay with traditional filament bulbs for the turn signal and brake lights. My car has the single brake, turn and running light. Are there any issues mixing LED and filament bulbs in this way? Happy Holidays to all... Harold rom: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2019 9:52 AM To: Michael Oritt; Michael Salter Cc: Austin Healey Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question You can get a complete kit for the whole car including an LED flashing unit from Litezupp. https://litezupp.com/epages/ac0e8cab-e6c1-4d6b-ab90-9213bdc3f061.sf/en_US/?O bjectPath=/Shops/ac0e8cab-e6c1-4d6b-ab90-9213bdc3f061/Products/%22AH%20100%2 0LED%20Kit%22 Mike MacLean On Tuesday, December 24, 2019, 8:03:14 AM PST, Michael Salter wrote: " What Kees says flies in the face of both Moss's (slightly inarticulate) instructions as well as the consensus of the group" Quelle surprise !! Actually, just to clear up the terminology, the resistors are required between the green with white tracer wire (21) and ground on both right side lamps and between the green with red tracer wire (18) and ground on both left side lamps. The important terminology is that these resistors parallel the turn/brake light filaments to increase the current flow to the 3.2 amps required to make the 42 watt thermal flasher unit operate as designed. My middle name is "pedantic" :-) M On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:30 AM Michael Oritt wrote: Thanks all. What Kees says flies in the face of both Moss's (slightly inarticulate) instructions as well as the consensus of the group. I will install ONE resistor in the flasher lead of each lamp, two--not four--resistors total. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:22 AM Bob Haskell wrote: Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to prevent all lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn signal. So connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for > turn signals). In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. > > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about the > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each > fixture but it does not specify which power lead. My question is: do I > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal > power lead or does it matter? I cannot envision connecting it to both > as that would defeat their separate function. > > TIA....Michael Oritt > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Tue Dec 24 11:17:02 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2019 13:17:02 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: <1117649506.3282852.1577209938484@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1117649506.3282852.1577209938484@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: When I ordered the bulbs from Moss I asked the associate if they would work in a 100 as its tail light lenses are much flatter than those for later cars and he assured me that they would. In fact LED bulb is about 5/16" taller than the incandescent bulb and it will not fit under the present lens. My choices are to either find a shorter LED or go to the later rounded glass lens as used in BN/BT cars. I am hoping to go with the first option. BTW since I have previously transferred my turn signal function to separate electrified reflector pods I now realize that I do not at this time need to install the ballasts since there will be no flasher function for the bulb--merely side and brake function only. But since I will probably next replace the front bulbs and those in the electrified pods with LED's the ballasts will not go to waste. Thanks all for your patience.... On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 12:52 PM Michael MacLean wrote: > You can get a complete kit for the whole car including an LED flashing > unit from Litezupp. > > > https://litezupp.com/epages/ac0e8cab-e6c1-4d6b-ab90-9213bdc3f061.sf/en_US/?ObjectPath=/Shops/ac0e8cab-e6c1-4d6b-ab90-9213bdc3f061/Products/%22AH%20100%20LED%20Kit%22 > > > Mike MacLean > On Tuesday, December 24, 2019, 8:03:14 AM PST, Michael Salter < > michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote: > > > *" What Kees says flies in the face of both Moss's (slightly inarticulate) > instructions as well as the consensus of the group"* Quelle surprise !! > > Actually, just to clear up the terminology, the resistors are required > between the green with white tracer wire (21) and ground on both right side > lamps and between the green with red tracer wire (18) and ground on both > left side lamps. > The important terminology is that these resistors *parallel* the > turn/brake light filaments to increase the current flow to the 3.2 amps > required to make the 42 watt thermal flasher unit operate as designed. > > My middle name is "pedantic" :-) > > M > > > On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:30 AM Michael Oritt > wrote: > > Thanks all. What Kees says flies in the face of both Moss's (slightly > inarticulate) instructions as well as the consensus of the group. > I will install ONE resistor in the flasher lead of each lamp, two--not > four--resistors total. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:22 AM Bob Haskell > wrote: > > Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to prevent all > lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn signal. So > connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as > > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament > > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for > > turn signals). In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's > > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. > > > > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about the > > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each > > fixture but it does not specify which power lead. My question is: do I > > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal > > power lead or does it matter? I cannot envision connecting it to both > > as that would defeat their separate function. > > > > TIA....Michael Oritt > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue Dec 24 19:05:51 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2019 18:05:51 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: <3593a73d-af0a-e065-ffcb-dbb65265757f@chello.nl> References: <3593a73d-af0a-e065-ffcb-dbb65265757f@chello.nl> Message-ID: Kees, Just curious. What model Healey do you own? On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 6:58 AM Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > For the tail and brake lights you should not need "load resistors". You > may need them for the indicator lights if you use the original style > bi-metal flasher relay. You have to make certain though that the wiring and > especially the contacts and fittings are perfectly clean and make 100% > contact. > > If you are going to use the load resistors you need two for each double > filament bulb as there are two power leads. > > Kees Oudesluijs > > > > Op 24-12-2019 om 15:22 schreef Michael Oritt: > > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament bulbs > on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for turn > signals). In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's suggestion, > two 170-965 Load Resistors. > > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about the > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each > fixture but it does not specify which power lead. My question is: do I > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal > power lead or does it matter? I cannot envision connecting it to both as > that would defeat their separate function. > > TIA....Michael Oritt > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Wed Dec 25 07:12:20 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Wed, 25 Dec 2019 09:12:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Merry Christmas References: <7730664A-773B-4A44-917F-20A7DE7350B4.ref@aol.com> Message-ID: <7730664A-773B-4A44-917F-20A7DE7350B4@aol.com> All the best to you and yours at this special time of the year. Santa (aka Perry) -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5755.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 159510 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Dec 26 08:05:52 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2019 10:05:52 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: After due consideration I've come to realize that there is a problem with the planed resistor installation. The original Lucas "thermal " type flasher unit is rated at 42 watts. The resistors that are shown on the Moss web site are 50 watt. If you were to install such a resistor, to simulate the load, on each turn signal bulb the load through the flasher unit, when the signals were selected, would be 100 watts PLUS whatever the LED lamps drew. This would result in 8.3 amps flowing through the flasher unit ... probably enough to burn it out!! I would think that a far better solution would be to install two 50 watt resistors. On the turn signal relay (that mysterious metal box mounted on the left front inner fender). One 50 watt resistor would be installed between terminal 2 and ground and the other between terminal 6 and ground. Those original flasher units are becoming VERY hard to find so it would be a pity to cook any more of them. M On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 10:30 AM Michael Oritt, wrote: > Thanks all. What Kees says flies in the face of both Moss's (slightly > inarticulate) instructions as well as the consensus of the group. > I will install ONE resistor in the flasher lead of each lamp, two--not > four--resistors total. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:22 AM Bob Haskell > wrote: > >> Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to prevent all >> lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn signal. So >> connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. >> >> Cheers, >> >> Bob Haskell >> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >> >> On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: >> > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as >> > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament >> > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for >> > turn signals). In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's >> > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. >> > >> > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about >> the >> > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each >> > fixture but it does not specify which power lead. My question is: do >> I >> > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal >> > power lead or does it matter? I cannot envision connecting it to both >> > as that would defeat their separate function. >> > >> > TIA....Michael Oritt >> > >> > _______________________________________________ >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> > >> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> > >> > Healeys at autox.team.net >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> > >> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >> > >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michael.oritt at gmail.com Thu Dec 26 09:32:41 2019 From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt) Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2019 11:32:41 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Michael-- Thank you for the additional information and I hope this issue did not bear too heavily upon your thinking during your Christmas celebration. As I believe I said in my last message the LED bulbs that Moss sent me are about 5/16" longer than a standard incandescent 1137 unit and while they may work on later cars that have rounded lenses they will not fit under the flat tail light lens of a 100. I may not have been clear in my original posting but a number of years ago I electrified the reflector pods on the rear deck and, using the conical plastic lens from later cars, I transferred turn signal function to them. (I also have a free-standing LED strip wired as a third brake light discreetly mounted to my hardtop below the rear window which is very bright and attention-getting). In any case since the tail light performs only running and brake light function I only need to find shorter LED bulbs that are compatible with the stock lens and since there is no flasher function I will not need a ballast. If and when I find an LED bulb that fits within the reflector pod I will then deal with the ballast resistor issue. In the meantime I am sending the LED bulbs and ballasts back to Moss for a refund, and will suggest that they not sell them to fit 100's without mods to the lenses. Many thanks to you as well as others who have posted suggestions on the topic. Best--Michaer Oritt On Thu, Dec 26, 2019 at 10:03 AM Michael Salter wrote: > After due consideration I've come to realize that there is a problem with > the planed resistor installation. > The original Lucas "thermal " type flasher unit is rated at 42 watts. > The resistors that are shown on the Moss web site are 50 watt. > If you were to install such a resistor, to simulate the load, on each turn > signal bulb the load through the flasher unit, when the signals were > selected, would be 100 watts PLUS whatever the LED lamps drew. This would > result in 8.3 amps flowing through the flasher unit ... probably enough to > burn it out!! > I would think that a far better solution would be to install two 50 watt > resistors. > On the turn signal relay (that mysterious metal box mounted on the left > front inner fender). One 50 watt resistor would be installed between > terminal 2 and ground and the other between terminal 6 and ground. > Those original flasher units are becoming VERY hard to find so it would be > a pity to cook any more of them. > > M > > > On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 10:30 AM Michael Oritt, > wrote: > >> Thanks all. What Kees says flies in the face of both Moss's (slightly >> inarticulate) instructions as well as the consensus of the group. >> I will install ONE resistor in the flasher lead of each lamp, two--not >> four--resistors total. >> >> Best--Michael Oritt >> >> On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:22 AM Bob Haskell >> wrote: >> >>> Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to prevent all >>> lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn signal. So >>> connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Bob Haskell >>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar >>> >>> On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: >>> > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as >>> > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament >>> > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for >>> > turn signals). In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's >>> > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. >>> > >>> > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about >>> the >>> > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each >>> > fixture but it does not specify which power lead. My question is: do >>> I >>> > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn >>> signal >>> > power lead or does it matter? I cannot envision connecting it to both >>> > as that would defeat their separate function. >>> > >>> > TIA....Michael Oritt >>> > >>> > _______________________________________________ >>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> > Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> > >>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >>> http://autox.team.net/archive >>> > >>> > Healeys at autox.team.net >>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> > >>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net >>> > >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rchaskell at earthlink.net Thu Dec 26 09:33:54 2019 From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell) Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2019 11:33:54 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <34f8c1ad-d034-6469-5d27-b89e800771bd@earthlink.net> 50 watts is the maximum power that the device will take. If you have a simple circuit with just the battery and ballast resistor: 12 volt and 6 ohms resistance, the current is 2 amps (I = V / R). Power consumed would be 24 watts (P = IV). Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/26/19 10:05 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > After due consideration I've come to realize that there is a problem > with the planed resistor installation. > The original Lucas "thermal " type flasher unit is rated at 42 watts. > The resistors that are shown on the Moss web site are 50 watt. > If you were to install such a resistor, to simulate the load, on each > turn signal bulb the load through the flasher unit, when the signals > were selected, would be 100 watts PLUS whatever the LED lamps drew. This > would result in 8.3 amps flowing through the flasher unit? ... probably > enough to burn it out!! > I would think that a far better solution would be to install two 50 watt > resistors. > On the turn signal relay (that mysterious metal box mounted on the left > front inner fender). One 50 watt resistor would be installed between > terminal 2 and ground and the other between terminal 6 and ground. > Those original flasher units are becoming VERY hard to find so it would > be a pity to cook any more of them. > > M > > > On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 10:30 AM Michael Oritt, > wrote: > > Thanks all.? What Kees says flies?in the face of both Moss's > (slightly inarticulate) instructions as well?as the consensus of the > group.? I?will?install ONE resistor in the flasher lead of each > lamp, two--not four--resistors total. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:22 AM Bob Haskell > > wrote: > > Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to prevent > all > lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn signal.? So > connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as > > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual > filament > > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and > wired for > > turn signals).? In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at > Moss's > > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. > > > > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply > talk about the > > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads > to each > > fixture but it does not specify which power lead.? My > question is: ?do I > > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the > turn signal > > power lead or does it matter?? I cannot envision connecting > it to both > > as that would defeat their separate function. > > > > TIA....Michael Oritt > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > From bspidell at comcast.net Thu Dec 26 10:12:55 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2019 09:12:55 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The Moss catalog states 'You will need one [resistor] for each side of the car,' so I don't think it matters where you put them, as long as they are in parallel in the circuit.? 50W resistors are pretty large, so I wouldn't want them in the engine bay; in the boot near the lights would be my preference. Resistor ratings are typically given in the load the resistor can withstand without letting the smoke out, not how much power it will pull--since voltage of the circuit the resistor is to be installed in often isn't known--but Moss isn't specific about this.? The turn signal circuits are separate--although Moss implies they can somehow bleed through--so the power draw isn't additive*.? The Moss catalog mentions the 'application data in the schematic section of this catalog' but I'll be damned if I can find said section and the search function on the website yields no useful results; anybody know the page# in the current catalog? The catalog is confusing as it states you'll need an electronic flasher if you install LEDs, then gives the option to install load resistors; presumably, if you don't want to replace your old-school flasher. Bob * theoretically, since the flasher operates both sides of the signals you could put a single resistor on the 'signal' terminal of the flasher (IIRC, the flashers have GND, power and 'signal' terminals). On 12/26/2019 7:05 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > After due consideration I've come to realize that there is a problem > with the planed resistor installation. > The original Lucas "thermal " type flasher unit is rated at 42 watts. > The resistors that are shown on the Moss web site are 50 watt. > If you were to install such a resistor, to simulate the load, on each > turn signal bulb the load through the flasher unit, when the signals > were selected, would be 100 watts PLUS whatever the LED lamps drew. > This would result in 8.3 amps flowing through the flasher unit? ... > probably enough to burn it out!! > I would think that a far better solution would be to install two 50 > watt resistors. > On the turn signal relay (that mysterious metal box mounted on the > left front inner fender). One 50 watt resistor would be installed > between terminal 2 and ground and the other between terminal 6 and ground. > Those original flasher units are becoming VERY hard to find so it > would be a pity to cook any more of them. > > M > > > On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 10:30 AM Michael Oritt, > wrote: > > Thanks all.? What Kees says flies?in the face of both Moss's > (slightly inarticulate) instructions as well?as the consensus of > the group.? I?will?install ONE resistor in the flasher lead of > each lamp, two--not four--resistors total. > > Best--Michael Oritt > > On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:22 AM Bob Haskell > > wrote: > > Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to > prevent all > lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn > signal.? So > connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. > > Cheers, > > Bob Haskell > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar > > On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as > > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual > filament > > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and > wired for > > turn signals).? In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, > at Moss's > > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. > > > > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply > talk about the > > resistor's being installed between the power and ground > leads to each > > fixture but it does not specify which power lead.? My > question is: ?do I > > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the > turn signal > > power lead or does it matter?? I cannot envision connecting > it to both > > as that would defeat their separate function. > > > > TIA....Michael Oritt > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Dec 26 10:44:43 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2019 17:44:43 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1102190876.3803262.1577382283187@mail.yahoo.com> Flashers | | | | $17.95 | | | | | | | Flashers Electronic Flashers for use with LED Lamps | | | As long as originality is not of the utmost importance. Mike MacLean On Thursday, December 26, 2019, 9:13:04 AM PST, Bob Spidell wrote: The Moss catalog states 'You will need one [resistor] for each side of the car,' so I don't think it matters where you put them, as long as they are in parallel in the circuit.? 50W resistors are pretty large, so I wouldn't want them in the engine bay; in the boot near the lights would be my preference. Resistor ratings are typically given in the load the resistor can withstand without letting the smoke out, not how much power it will pull--since voltage of the circuit the resistor is to be installed in often isn't known--but Moss isn't specific about this.? The turn signal circuits are separate--although Moss implies they can somehow bleed through--so the power draw isn't additive*.? The Moss catalog mentions the 'application data in the schematic section of this catalog' but I'll be damned if I can find said section and the search function on the website yields no useful results; anybody know the page# in the current catalog? The catalog is confusing as it states you'll need an electronic flasher if you install LEDs, then gives the option to install load resistors; presumably, if you don't want to replace your old-school flasher. Bob * theoretically, since the flasher operates both sides of the signals you could put a single resistor on the 'signal' terminal of the flasher (IIRC, the flashers have GND, power and 'signal' terminals). On 12/26/2019 7:05 AM, Michael Salter wrote: After due consideration I've come to realize that there is a problem with the planed resistor installation.? The original Lucas "thermal " type flasher unit is rated at 42 watts.? The resistors that are shown on the Moss web site are 50 watt.? If you were to install such a resistor, to simulate the load, on each turn signal bulb the load through the flasher unit, when the signals were selected, would be 100 watts PLUS whatever the LED lamps drew. This would result in 8.3 amps flowing through the flasher unit? ... probably enough to burn it out!! I would think that a far better solution would be to install two 50 watt resistors. On the turn signal relay (that mysterious metal box mounted on the left front inner fender). One 50 watt resistor would be installed between terminal 2 and ground and the other between terminal 6 and ground. Those original flasher units are becoming VERY hard to find so it would be a pity to cook any more of them. M On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 10:30 AM Michael Oritt, wrote: Thanks all.? What Kees says flies?in the face of both Moss's (slightly inarticulate) instructions as well?as the consensus of the group.? I?will?install ONE resistor in the flasher lead of each lamp, two--not four--resistors total. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:22 AM Bob Haskell wrote: Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to prevent all lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn signal.? So connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for > turn signals).? In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. > > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about the > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each > fixture but it does not specify which power lead.? My question is: ?do I > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal > power lead or does it matter?? I cannot envision connecting it to both > as that would defeat their separate function. > > TIA....Michael Oritt > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Thu Dec 26 10:52:11 2019 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2019 17:52:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <209884869.2415129.1577382731866@mail.yahoo.com> Careful ...don't confuse OHMS with WATTS ... R=E/I (resistance in ohms equals voltage divided by current) P=IE? (power in watts equals current multiplied by volts On Thursday, December 26, 2019, 3:04:18 PM UTC, Michael Salter wrote: After due consideration I've come to realize that there is a problem with the planed resistor installation.?The original Lucas "thermal " type flasher unit is rated at 42 watts.?The resistors that are shown on the Moss web site are 50 watt.?If you were to install such a resistor, to simulate the load, on each turn signal bulb the load through the flasher unit, when the signals were selected, would be 100 watts PLUS whatever the LED lamps drew. This would result in 8.3 amps flowing through the flasher unit? ... probably enough to burn it out!!I would think that a far better solution would be to install two 50 watt resistors.On the turn signal relay (that mysterious metal box mounted on the left front inner fender). One 50 watt resistor would be installed between terminal 2 and ground and the other between terminal 6 and ground.Those original flasher units are becoming VERY hard to find so it would be a pity to cook any more of them. M On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 10:30 AM Michael Oritt, wrote: Thanks all.? What Kees says flies?in the face of both Moss's (slightly inarticulate) instructions as well?as the consensus of the group.? I?will?install ONE resistor in the flasher lead of each lamp, two--not four--resistors total. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:22 AM Bob Haskell wrote: Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to prevent all lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn signal.? So connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for > turn signals).? In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. > > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about the > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each > fixture but it does not specify which power lead.? My question is: ?do I > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal > power lead or does it matter?? I cannot envision connecting it to both > as that would defeat their separate function. > > TIA....Michael Oritt > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Thu Dec 26 11:25:32 2019 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2019 18:25:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: <1102190876.3803262.1577382283187@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1102190876.3803262.1577382283187@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <688839104.2416836.1577384732390@mail.yahoo.com> So (ascii art follows)? ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ground ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? | ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?? ?????? (pilot/dash light)?????????????????????? | ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? | ??????????????????????? ? ? ???? (left lamps) ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? | ?????????????????????????????????????? / ground >---->negative battery>---> (battery) >--->positive battery>--->flasher power>--->turn? switch / ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ? ?? ????????????????????????????????? \ ??????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ? ? ??????????????????????????????????? \ ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ? ? ? ?? ??????????????????????????? (right lamps)???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? | ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? |?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ground this : On Thursday, December 26, 2019, 5:45:10 PM UTC, Michael MacLean wrote: Flashers | | | | $17.95 | | | | | | | Flashers Electronic Flashers for use with LED Lamps | | | As long as originality is not of the utmost importance. Mike MacLean On Thursday, December 26, 2019, 9:13:04 AM PST, Bob Spidell wrote: The Moss catalog states 'You will need one [resistor] for each side of the car,' so I don't think it matters where you put them, as long as they are in parallel in the circuit.? 50W resistors are pretty large, so I wouldn't want them in the engine bay; in the boot near the lights would be my preference. Resistor ratings are typically given in the load the resistor can withstand without letting the smoke out, not how much power it will pull--since voltage of the circuit the resistor is to be installed in often isn't known--but Moss isn't specific about this.? The turn signal circuits are separate--although Moss implies they can somehow bleed through--so the power draw isn't additive*.? The Moss catalog mentions the 'application data in the schematic section of this catalog' but I'll be damned if I can find said section and the search function on the website yields no useful results; anybody know the page# in the current catalog? The catalog is confusing as it states you'll need an electronic flasher if you install LEDs, then gives the option to install load resistors; presumably, if you don't want to replace your old-school flasher. Bob * theoretically, since the flasher operates both sides of the signals you could put a single resistor on the 'signal' terminal of the flasher (IIRC, the flashers have GND, power and 'signal' terminals). On 12/26/2019 7:05 AM, Michael Salter wrote: After due consideration I've come to realize that there is a problem with the planed resistor installation.? The original Lucas "thermal " type flasher unit is rated at 42 watts.? The resistors that are shown on the Moss web site are 50 watt.? If you were to install such a resistor, to simulate the load, on each turn signal bulb the load through the flasher unit, when the signals were selected, would be 100 watts PLUS whatever the LED lamps drew. This would result in 8.3 amps flowing through the flasher unit? ... probably enough to burn it out!! I would think that a far better solution would be to install two 50 watt resistors. On the turn signal relay (that mysterious metal box mounted on the left front inner fender). One 50 watt resistor would be installed between terminal 2 and ground and the other between terminal 6 and ground. Those original flasher units are becoming VERY hard to find so it would be a pity to cook any more of them. M On Tue, Dec 24, 2019, 10:30 AM Michael Oritt, wrote: Thanks all.? What Kees says flies?in the face of both Moss's (slightly inarticulate) instructions as well?as the consensus of the group.? I?will?install ONE resistor in the flasher lead of each lamp, two--not four--resistors total. Best--Michael Oritt On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 10:22 AM Bob Haskell wrote: Per the Moss video, you're creating a new ground path to prevent all lights blinking when you turn on the left or right turn signal.? So connect the ballast resistors to the turn signal circuit. Cheers, Bob Haskell Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar On 12/24/19 9:22 AM, Michael Oritt wrote: > I purchased two of the Moss 170-941 red LED bulbs to use as > tail-lights/brake-lights to replace the standard 1157 dual filament > bulbs on my 100 (I have the reflector pods electrified and wired for > turn signals).? In addition to the bulbs I also purchased, at Moss's > suggestion, two 170-965 Load Resistors. > > The instructions for installation of the resistors simply talk about the > resistor's being installed between the power and ground leads to each > fixture but it does not specify which power lead.? My question is: ?do I > connect the ground lead to the tail light power lead or the turn signal > power lead or does it matter?? I cannot envision connecting it to both > as that would defeat their separate function. > > TIA....Michael Oritt > _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: three terminal flasher.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 50008 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1577384449833blob.jpg Type: image/png Size: 168360 bytes Desc: not available URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Thu Dec 26 12:18:59 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2019 14:18:59 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: <688839104.2416836.1577384732390@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1102190876.3803262.1577382283187@mail.yahoo.com> <688839104.2416836.1577384732390@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I can't quite figure out how this type works? It appears to me that there would be constant power to the "L" terminal meaning that the lamps would not flash ... what am I missing? [image: image.png] Interestingly here is the Lucas version. [image: image.png] This type is quite clever for 1953 ... If there isn't sufficient current flow through the coil the coil does not pull the pilot points closed so when 1 bulb fails the pilot lamp does not flash. M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 1577384449833blob.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 168360 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 167415 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 309611 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ab7vf at yahoo.com Thu Dec 26 15:36:32 2019 From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim) Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2019 22:36:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Ballast resistor wiring question In-Reply-To: References: <1102190876.3803262.1577382283187@mail.yahoo.com> <688839104.2416836.1577384732390@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <234288523.2497760.1577399792187@mail.yahoo.com> current flowing through the "sawtooth" line (resistance wire) heats up the bi-metallic strip ...which bends closing the contact bypassing the resistance wire ..it cools off as current is no longer flowing through resistance wire ...as the bimetallic strip cools, it bends back opening the ciruit and current flows through the resistance wire heating it up ...etc, etc on the lucas one, it is really a relay...current flows main armature >-->actuating wire >-->ballast resistor >--> field coil of relay to the bulbs via turn signal switch ...Initially the bulbs are cold with very low resistance, as they heat up the resistance increases So ..Initial turn-on lots of current through relay field coil, relay operates bulbs heat decreasing current flow . eventually relay released due to field decreasing ..bulbs cool .. current increases, relay operates ..etc, etc the drawback being if things aren't just right, the relay will act like a vibrator and just "buzz" alternate operate/releaseig\ Jim I can't quite figure out how this type works?It appears to me that there would be constant power to the "L" terminal meaning that the lamps would not flash ... what am I missing? Interestingly here is the Lucas version. This type is quite clever for 1953 ... If there isn't sufficient current flow through the coil the coil does not pull the pilot points closed so when 1 bulb fails the pilot lamp does not flash. M -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 167415 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 309611 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyrik at gmail.com Thu Dec 26 17:43:07 2019 From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick) Date: Thu, 26 Dec 2019 19:43:07 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 Message-ID: Posted per request of Reid Trummel: *I believe that most of you know that I edit and publish **Healey Marque magazine for the Austin-Healey Club of America (AHCA). It's a 40- to 48-page all-color magazine published 11 times per year (that's every month with the exception of December when a wall calendar replaces it). You can get a good idea of what it looks like at the link https://healeyclub.org/healey-marque **Well, if you haven't been an AHCA member before, and you're not already one, you can get a free club membership for 2020 by simply contacting me with your name and mailing address. This applies to addresses in the USA and Canada (sorry, but postage costs outside the USA and Canada are murder). Just email me at* *editor at healeyclub.org * *and we'll get it going. The February issue will be mailed in just a couple of weeks, so please don't delay and we'll get you on the mailing list in time to receive it.* *This is not a typical "club magazine" with page after page about club activities and page after page of pictures of the club's in crowd. We are heavy on marque history and tech, and the regular contributors include John Nikas , the Healey Museum , the Warwickshire County Records Office (where they hold some of the original records of the Donald Healey Motor Company), and Michael Oritt and Rick Neville of the Healey list.Merry Christmas, we have a gift of a year of Healey reading - more than 450 pages of it - waiting for you, just for the asking. * Rick Neville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Thu Dec 26 17:51:02 2019 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 00:51:02 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Doesn?t sound fair to us already long time members. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 26, 2019, at 4:43 PM, HealeyRick wrote: ? Posted per request of Reid Trummel: I believe that most of you know that I edit and publish Healey Marque magazine for the Austin-Healey Club of America (AHCA). It's a 40- to 48-page all-color magazine published 11 times per year (that's every month with the exception of December when a wall calendar replaces it). You can get a good idea of what it looks like at the link https://healeyclub.org/healey-marque Well, if you haven't been an AHCA member before, and you're not already one, you can get a free club membership for 2020 by simply contacting me with your name and mailing address. This applies to addresses in the USA and Canada (sorry, but postage costs outside the USA and Canada are murder). Just email me at editor at healeyclub.org and we'll get it going. The February issue will be mailed in just a couple of weeks, so please don't delay and we'll get you on the mailing list in time to receive it. This is not a typical "club magazine" with page after page about club activities and page after page of pictures of the club's in crowd. We are heavy on marque history and tech, and the regular contributors include John Nikas, the Healey Museum, the Warwickshire County Records Office (where they hold some of the original records of the Donald Healey Motor Company), and Michael Oritt and Rick Neville of the Healey list. Merry Christmas, we have a gift of a year of Healey reading - more than 450 pages of it - waiting for you, just for the asking. Rick Neville _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Thu Dec 26 18:08:50 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 01:08:50 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Spindle Nut References: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329@mail.yahoo.com> What size is the spindle nut on a 100?? I can't seem to find an exact match deep enough among all my sockets.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Dec 27 07:23:40 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 09:23:40 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spindle Nut In-Reply-To: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329@mail.yahoo.com> References: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <433910055.3899806.1577408930329@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Pretty sure that they are BSF thread Michael. Usually there is a pretty close metric socket size. Not sure why you would need a deep socket ... am I missing something? On Thu, Dec 26, 2019, 8:08 PM Michael MacLean, wrote: > What size is the spindle nut on a 100? I can't seem to find an exact > match deep enough among all my sockets. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Dec 27 07:56:36 2019 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 06:56:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spindle Nut In-Reply-To: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329@mail.yahoo.com> References: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: This would depend if is a BN1 or BN2. Th BN1 is a bad thread then they changed to unf threads David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 26, 2019, at 5:09 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ?What size is the spindle nut on a 100? I can't seem to find an exact match deep enough among all my sockets. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net Fri Dec 27 07:56:36 2019 From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 06:56:36 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spindle Nut In-Reply-To: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329@mail.yahoo.com> References: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: This would depend if is a BN1 or BN2. Th BN1 is a bad thread then they changed to unf threads David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 26, 2019, at 5:09 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > ?What size is the spindle nut on a 100? I can't seem to find an exact match deep enough among all my sockets. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Dec 27 08:23:29 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 10:23:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Not much different than most promotional offers. I get a bit irritated when I see the offers for cable TV or cellular phones that undercut, sometimes substantially, what I have been paying for years. But it is only a one time or temporary savings for the newbies. Eventually we all pay the real cost of services. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Richard Kahn Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2019 7:51 PM To: HealeyRick Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 Doesn?t sound fair to us already long time members. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 26, 2019, at 4:43 PM, HealeyRick wrote: ? Posted per request of Reid Trummel: I believe that most of you know that I edit and publish?Healey Marque?magazine for the Austin-Healey Club of America (AHCA). It's a 40- to 48-page all-color magazine published 11 times per year (that's every month with the exception of December when a wall calendar replaces it). You can get a good idea of what it looks like at the link?https://healeyclub.org/healey-marque Well, if you haven't been an AHCA member before, and you're not already one, you can get a free club membership for 2020 by simply contacting me with your name and mailing address. This applies to addresses in the USA and Canada (sorry, but postage costs outside the USA and Canada are murder). Just email me at?editor at healeyclub.org?and we'll get it going. The February issue will be mailed in just a couple of weeks, so please don't delay and we'll get you on the mailing list in time to receive it. This is not a typical "club magazine" with page after page about club activities and page after page of pictures of the club's in crowd. We are heavy on marque history and tech, and the regular contributors include?John Nikas, the?Healey Museum, the Warwickshire County Records Office (where they hold some of the original records of the Donald Healey Motor Company), and Michael Oritt and Rick Neville of the Healey list. Merry Christmas, we have a gift of a year of Healey reading -?more than 450 pages of it?- waiting for you, just for the asking.?? Rick Neville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Dec 27 08:23:29 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 10:23:29 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Not much different than most promotional offers. I get a bit irritated when I see the offers for cable TV or cellular phones that undercut, sometimes substantially, what I have been paying for years. But it is only a one time or temporary savings for the newbies. Eventually we all pay the real cost of services. Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Richard Kahn Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2019 7:51 PM To: HealeyRick Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 Doesn?t sound fair to us already long time members. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 26, 2019, at 4:43 PM, HealeyRick wrote: ? Posted per request of Reid Trummel: I believe that most of you know that I edit and publish?Healey Marque?magazine for the Austin-Healey Club of America (AHCA). It's a 40- to 48-page all-color magazine published 11 times per year (that's every month with the exception of December when a wall calendar replaces it). You can get a good idea of what it looks like at the link?https://healeyclub.org/healey-marque Well, if you haven't been an AHCA member before, and you're not already one, you can get a free club membership for 2020 by simply contacting me with your name and mailing address. This applies to addresses in the USA and Canada (sorry, but postage costs outside the USA and Canada are murder). Just email me at?editor at healeyclub.org?and we'll get it going. The February issue will be mailed in just a couple of weeks, so please don't delay and we'll get you on the mailing list in time to receive it. This is not a typical "club magazine" with page after page about club activities and page after page of pictures of the club's in crowd. We are heavy on marque history and tech, and the regular contributors include?John Nikas, the?Healey Museum, the Warwickshire County Records Office (where they hold some of the original records of the Donald Healey Motor Company), and Michael Oritt and Rick Neville of the Healey list. Merry Christmas, we have a gift of a year of Healey reading -?more than 450 pages of it?- waiting for you, just for the asking.?? Rick Neville -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ah100register at gmail.com Fri Dec 27 09:21:06 2019 From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 16:21:06 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Spindle Nut In-Reply-To: References: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: David If we are talking about studs in the hubs there were four on the early BN1 and five on the later BN1s, BN2 and beyond. The early hubs came from a range of Austin vehicles where Austin parts were mainly BSF on vehicles such as the A40 Somerset With the merger into BMC mainly UNF threads were introduced on cars such as the A90 Westminster So to say that just studs where changed is misleading. The hubs in total were different and not interchangeable from the early BN1 to later the later BN1 and BN2 Best regards On Fri, 27 Dec 2019 at 14:56, David Nock wrote: > This would depend if is a BN1 or BN2. Th BN1 is a bad thread then they > changed to unf threads > > David Nock > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 26, 2019, at 5:09 PM, Michael MacLean > wrote: > > ?What size is the spindle nut on a 100? I can't seem to find an exact > match deep enough among all my sockets. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com > > -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Fri Dec 27 09:33:15 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 08:33:15 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spindle Nut In-Reply-To: References: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3750668768BC4AC9BB9E7611C2E58AB9@DavidNockHP> I am only referring to the Spindle Nut, The BN1 spindle has a BSF thread and the BN2 on has a UNF thread. David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org From: John Harper Sent: Friday, December 27, 2019 8:21 AM To: David Nock Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spindle Nut David If we are talking about studs in the hubs there were four on the early BN1 and five on the later BN1s, BN2 and beyond. The early hubs came from a range of Austin vehicles where Austin parts were mainly BSF on vehicles such as the A40 Somerset With the merger into BMC mainly UNF threads were introduced on cars such as the A90 Westminster So to say that just studs where changed is misleading. The hubs in total were different and not interchangeable from the early BN1 to later the later BN1 and BN2 Best regards On Fri, 27 Dec 2019 at 14:56, David Nock wrote: This would depend if is a BN1 or BN2. Th BN1 is a bad thread then they changed to unf threads David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 26, 2019, at 5:09 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: ?What size is the spindle nut on a 100? I can't seem to find an exact match deep enough among all my sockets. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com -- Best wishes John Harper AHC UK 100 Register Secretary -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Fri Dec 27 10:34:55 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 17:34:55 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Spindle Nut In-Reply-To: <1556631853.4114643.1577467852314@mail.yahoo.com> References: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329@mail.yahoo.com> <3750668768BC4AC9BB9E7611C2E58AB9@DavidNockHP> <1556631853.4114643.1577467852314@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2014631605.4120978.1577468095588@mail.yahoo.com> Just checked the moss catalog.? They only list a UNF nut for a 100 without giving the size.? That is what I bought, so I have to find a socket that will fit whatever size it is.? I guess I don't have the right size socket in an SAE size that fits.? Using a metric that is close just to get it to 40 ft lbs to find out the right combination of spacers.? Oh boy, an excuse to go look for another tool (socket).Mike M On Friday, December 27, 2019, 9:30:52 AM PST, Michael MacLean wrote: Didn't I buy these spindles for my BN2 from you David?? Did you sell me a BN1 or 2 set?Mike M. On Friday, December 27, 2019, 8:33:39 AM PST, David Nock wrote: I am only referring to the Spindle Nut, The BN1 spindle has a BSF thread and the BN2 on has a UNF thread.??David Nock healeydoc at sbcglobal.net 209 948 8767 www.britishcarspecialists.com Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites by visiting the site at. www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org ?From: John Harper Sent: Friday, December 27, 2019 8:21 AMTo: David Nock Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spindle Nut?David ?If we are talking about studs in the hubs there were four on the early BN1 and five on the later BN1s, BN2 and beyond.?The early hubs came from a range of Austin vehicles where Austin parts were mainly BSF on vehicles such as the A40 Somerset?With the merger into BMC mainly UNF threads were introduced on cars such as the A90 Westminster?So to say that just studs where changed is misleading. The hubs in total were different and not interchangeable from the early BN1 to later the later BN1 and BN2 Best regards?On Fri, 27 Dec 2019 at 14:56, David Nock wrote: This would depend if is a BN1 or BN2.? Th BN1 is a bad thread then they changed to unf threads?? David Nock ?Sent from my iPhone On Dec 26, 2019, at 5:09 PM, Michael MacLean wrote: ?What size is the spindle nut on a 100?? I can't seem to find an exact match deep enough among all my sockets. Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com ??-- Best wishes ?John Harper?AHC UK 100 Register Secretary _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Larry at patersondesign.ca Fri Dec 27 10:40:24 2019 From: Larry at patersondesign.ca (Larry Paterson) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 10:40:24 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <007c01d5bcdc$b9e112a0$2da337e0$@ca> Is this an attempt to put all the other clubs out of business. Sounds really fishy to me. Larry From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2019 5:51 PM To: HealeyRick Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 Doesn?t sound fair to us already long time members. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 26, 2019, at 4:43 PM, HealeyRick wrote: ? Posted per request of Reid Trummel: I believe that most of you know that I edit and publish Healey Marque magazine for the Austin-Healey Club of America (AHCA). It's a 40- to 48-page all-color magazine published 11 times per year (that's every month with the exception of December when a wall calendar replaces it). You can get a good idea of what it looks like at the link https://healeyclub.org/healey-marque Well, if you haven't been an AHCA member before, and you're not already one, you can get a free club membership for 2020 by simply contacting me with your name and mailing address. This applies to addresses in the USA and Canada (sorry, but postage costs outside the USA and Canada are murder). Just email me at editor at healeyclub.org and we'll get it going. The February issue will be mailed in just a couple of weeks, so please don't delay and we'll get you on the mailing list in time to receive it. This is not a typical "club magazine" with page after page about club activities and page after page of pictures of the club's in crowd. We are heavy on marque history and tech, and the regular contributors include John Nikas, the Healey Museum, the Warwickshire County Records Office (where they hold some of the original records of the Donald Healey Motor Company), and Michael Oritt and Rick Neville of the Healey list. Merry Christmas, we have a gift of a year of Healey reading - more than 450 pages of it - waiting for you, just for the asking. Rick Neville _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Dec 27 10:41:56 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 09:41:56 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Spindle Nut In-Reply-To: <2014631605.4120978.1577468095588@mail.yahoo.com> References: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329@mail.yahoo.com> <3750668768BC4AC9BB9E7611C2E58AB9@DavidNockHP> <1556631853.4114643.1577467852314@mail.yahoo.com> <2014631605.4120978.1577468095588@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <63789851-ddcf-b72e-e61f-56179167bf59@comcast.net> Side Note:? Years ago there was a sort-of gimmicky product called 'MetWrench' being hawked on the infomercials.? It promised you could use its one set of sockets and wrenches on both SAE and metric nuts; in a moment of weakness I bought a set.? Surprisingly, the tools were very good quality and for the most part work as advertised--they contact the flats of nuts instead of the corners--and I can even usually find one that will work on Whitworth nuts.? Has saved me similar anguish as this on several occasions (I don't think they have a deep socket that large, though). Bob On 12/27/2019 9:34 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > Just checked the moss catalog.? They only list a UNF nut for a 100 > without giving the size.? That is what I bought, so I have to find a > socket that will fit whatever size it is.? I guess I don't have the > right size socket in an SAE size that fits.? Using a metric that is > close just to get it to 40 ft lbs to find out the right combination of > spacers.? Oh boy, an excuse to go look for another tool (socket). > Mike M > > On Friday, December 27, 2019, 9:30:52 AM PST, Michael MacLean > wrote: > > > Didn't I buy these spindles for my BN2 from you David?? Did you sell > me a BN1 or 2 set? > Mike M. > > On Friday, December 27, 2019, 8:33:39 AM PST, David Nock > wrote: > > > I am only referring to the Spindle Nut, The BN1 spindle has a BSF > thread and the BN2 on has a UNF thread. > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the > British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites > by visiting the site at. > www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org > *From:* John Harper > *Sent:* Friday, December 27, 2019 8:21 AM > *To:* David Nock > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Spindle Nut > David > If we are talking about studs in the hubs there were four on the early > BN1 and five on the later BN1s, BN2 and beyond. > The early hubs came from a range of Austin vehicles where Austin parts > were mainly BSF on vehicles such as the A40 Somerset > With the merger into BMC mainly UNF threads were introduced on cars > such as the A90 Westminster > So to say that just studs where changed is misleading. The hubs in > total were different and not interchangeable from the early BN1 to > later the later BN1 and BN2 > Best regards > On Fri, 27 Dec 2019 at 14:56, David Nock > wrote: > > This would depend if is a BN1 or BN2.? Th BN1 is a bad thread then > they changed to unf threads > > David Nock > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 26, 2019, at 5:09 PM, Michael MacLean >> > wrote: >> >> ?What size is the spindle nut on a 100?? I can't seem to find an >> exact match deep enough among all my sockets. >> Mike MacLean >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Dec 27 10:54:03 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 09:54:03 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 In-Reply-To: <007c01d5bcdc$b9e112a0$2da337e0$@ca> References: <007c01d5bcdc$b9e112a0$2da337e0$@ca> Message-ID: <5f43b15d-82c9-1bff-23dd-664795659342@comcast.net> I don't think Reid, et al, are that nefarious.? Years ago, when Reid was a principal--Membership Director, IIRC--at AHCUSA we had a promo where we'd send a free copy of the mag to potential members.? I did the work for a couple years--it was kind of a PITA because I packaged and mailed each hardcopy separately--and it was only an attempt to expand our membership (I don't think it was particularly successful). We always maintained it was advantageous for owners to be members of both major clubs for, what, about $100/year (i.e. the cost of a typical order to Tom's, Moss, etc.)? Bob On 12/27/2019 9:40 AM, Larry Paterson wrote: > > Is this an attempt to put all the other clubs out of business. > ??Sounds really fishy to me. > > Larry > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of > *Richard Kahn > *Sent:* Thursday, December 26, 2019 5:51 PM > *To:* HealeyRick > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 > > Doesn?t sound fair to us already long time members. > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > On Dec 26, 2019, at 4:43 PM, HealeyRick wrote: > > ? > > > Posted per request of Reid Trummel: > > > /I believe that most of you know that I edit and > publish?Healey Marque?magazine for the Austin-Healey Club of > America (AHCA). It's a 40- to 48-page all-color magazine > published 11 times per year (that's every month with the > exception of December when a wall calendar replaces it). You > can get a good idea of what it looks like at the link > //https://healeyclub.org/healey-marque/ > > > /Well, if you haven't been an AHCA member before, and you're > not already one, you can get a free club membership for 2020 > by simply contacting me with your name and mailing address. > This applies to addresses in the USA and Canada (sorry, but > postage costs outside the USA and Canada are murder). Just > email me at/editor at healeyclub.org > /and we'll get it going. The > February issue will be mailed in just a couple of weeks, so > please don't delay and we'll get you on the mailing list in > time to receive it./ > > /This is not a typical "club magazine" with page after page about > club activities and page after page of pictures of the club's in > crowd. We are heavy on marque history and tech, and the regular > contributors include _John Nikas > _, the > _Healey Museum _, the Warwickshire > County Records Office (where they hold some of the original > records of the Donald Healey Motor Company), and Michael Oritt and > Rick Neville of the Healey list.// > Merry Christmas, we have a gift of a year of Healey reading -?more > than 450 pages of it?- waiting for you, just for the asking./// > > Rick Neville > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Dec 27 11:05:24 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 13:05:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 In-Reply-To: <007c01d5bcdc$b9e112a0$2da337e0$@ca> References: <007c01d5bcdc$b9e112a0$2da337e0$@ca> Message-ID: Listers Just a comment and I?m off this topic. If a free subscription to a club mag, a mostly once a month 15 minute read, determines an Austin Healey owners? affiliation then we have moved away from the comradery of what the clubs, local and national, used to be about. P sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Larry Paterson Sent: Friday, December 27, 2019 12:40 PM To: 'Richard Kahn'; 'HealeyRick' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 Is this an attempt to put all the other clubs out of business. ??Sounds really fishy to me. Larry From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2019 5:51 PM To: HealeyRick Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 Doesn?t sound fair to us already long time members. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 26, 2019, at 4:43 PM, HealeyRick wrote: ? Posted per request of Reid Trummel: I believe that most of you know that I edit and publish?Healey Marque?magazine for the Austin-Healey Club of America (AHCA). It's a 40- to 48-page all-color magazine published 11 times per year (that's every month with the exception of December when a wall calendar replaces it). You can get a good idea of what it looks like at the link?https://healeyclub.org/healey-marque Well, if you haven't been an AHCA member before, and you're not already one, you can get a free club membership for 2020 by simply contacting me with your name and mailing address. This applies to addresses in the USA and Canada (sorry, but postage costs outside the USA and Canada are murder). Just email me at?editor at healeyclub.org?and we'll get it going. The February issue will be mailed in just a couple of weeks, so please don't delay and we'll get you on the mailing list in time to receive it. This is not a typical "club magazine" with page after page about club activities and page after page of pictures of the club's in crowd. We are heavy on marque history and tech, and the regular contributors include?John Nikas, the?Healey Museum, the Warwickshire County Records Office (where they hold some of the original records of the Donald Healey Motor Company), and Michael Oritt and Rick Neville of the Healey list. Merry Christmas, we have a gift of a year of Healey reading -?more than 450 pages of it?- waiting for you, just for the asking.?? Rick Neville _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Fri Dec 27 11:05:24 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 13:05:24 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 In-Reply-To: <007c01d5bcdc$b9e112a0$2da337e0$@ca> References: <007c01d5bcdc$b9e112a0$2da337e0$@ca> Message-ID: Listers Just a comment and I?m off this topic. If a free subscription to a club mag, a mostly once a month 15 minute read, determines an Austin Healey owners? affiliation then we have moved away from the comradery of what the clubs, local and national, used to be about. P sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Larry Paterson Sent: Friday, December 27, 2019 12:40 PM To: 'Richard Kahn'; 'HealeyRick' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 Is this an attempt to put all the other clubs out of business. ??Sounds really fishy to me. Larry From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2019 5:51 PM To: HealeyRick Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 Doesn?t sound fair to us already long time members. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 26, 2019, at 4:43 PM, HealeyRick wrote: ? Posted per request of Reid Trummel: I believe that most of you know that I edit and publish?Healey Marque?magazine for the Austin-Healey Club of America (AHCA). It's a 40- to 48-page all-color magazine published 11 times per year (that's every month with the exception of December when a wall calendar replaces it). You can get a good idea of what it looks like at the link?https://healeyclub.org/healey-marque Well, if you haven't been an AHCA member before, and you're not already one, you can get a free club membership for 2020 by simply contacting me with your name and mailing address. This applies to addresses in the USA and Canada (sorry, but postage costs outside the USA and Canada are murder). Just email me at?editor at healeyclub.org?and we'll get it going. The February issue will be mailed in just a couple of weeks, so please don't delay and we'll get you on the mailing list in time to receive it. This is not a typical "club magazine" with page after page about club activities and page after page of pictures of the club's in crowd. We are heavy on marque history and tech, and the regular contributors include?John Nikas, the?Healey Museum, the Warwickshire County Records Office (where they hold some of the original records of the Donald Healey Motor Company), and Michael Oritt and Rick Neville of the Healey list. Merry Christmas, we have a gift of a year of Healey reading -?more than 450 pages of it?- waiting for you, just for the asking.?? Rick Neville _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tahoehealey at hotmail.com Fri Dec 27 11:54:59 2019 From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 18:54:59 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 In-Reply-To: References: <007c01d5bcdc$b9e112a0$2da337e0$@ca>, Message-ID: Why not just let the local clubs hand them out to non AHAC at drivers and events. Only current month. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 27, 2019, at 10:05 AM, Perry wrote: ? Listers Just a comment and I?m off this topic. If a free subscription to a club mag, a mostly once a month 15 minute read, determines an Austin Healey owners? affiliation then we have moved away from the comradery of what the clubs, local and national, used to be about. P sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Larry Paterson Sent: Friday, December 27, 2019 12:40 PM To: 'Richard Kahn'; 'HealeyRick' Cc: 'Healeys' Subject: Re: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 Is this an attempt to put all the other clubs out of business. Sounds really fishy to me. Larry From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard Kahn Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2019 5:51 PM To: HealeyRick Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] FREE Healey Marque Magazine Subscription for 2020 Doesn?t sound fair to us already long time members. Sent from my iPhone On Dec 26, 2019, at 4:43 PM, HealeyRick wrote: ? Posted per request of Reid Trummel: I believe that most of you know that I edit and publish Healey Marque magazine for the Austin-Healey Club of America (AHCA). It's a 40- to 48-page all-color magazine published 11 times per year (that's every month with the exception of December when a wall calendar replaces it). You can get a good idea of what it looks like at the link https://healeyclub.org/healey-marque Well, if you haven't been an AHCA member before, and you're not already one, you can get a free club membership for 2020 by simply contacting me with your name and mailing address. This applies to addresses in the USA and Canada (sorry, but postage costs outside the USA and Canada are murder). Just email me at editor at healeyclub.org and we'll get it going. The February issue will be mailed in just a couple of weeks, so please don't delay and we'll get you on the mailing list in time to receive it. This is not a typical "club magazine" with page after page about club activities and page after page of pictures of the club's in crowd. We are heavy on marque history and tech, and the regular contributors include John Nikas, the Healey Museum, the Warwickshire County Records Office (where they hold some of the original records of the Donald Healey Motor Company), and Michael Oritt and Rick Neville of the Healey list. Merry Christmas, we have a gift of a year of Healey reading - more than 450 pages of it - waiting for you, just for the asking. Rick Neville _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Fri Dec 27 12:57:10 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Fri, 27 Dec 2019 14:57:10 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Spindle Nut In-Reply-To: <63789851-ddcf-b72e-e61f-56179167bf59@comcast.net> References: <433910055.3899806.1577408930329@mail.yahoo.com> <3750668768BC4AC9BB9E7611C2E58AB9@DavidNockHP> <1556631853.4114643.1577467852314@mail.yahoo.com> <2014631605.4120978.1577468095588@mail.yahoo.com> <63789851-ddcf-b72e-e61f-56179167bf59@comcast.net> Message-ID: I just pulled one out of my stock and it's hardly suprising that you are having difficulty. Looks like a 5/8" BSF thread and the nut is 1.016" across the flats. I happen to have a BS socket for it but a 26mm is a reasonable but loose fit. M On Fri, Dec 27, 2019, 12:42 PM Bob Spidell, wrote: > Side Note: Years ago there was a sort-of gimmicky product called > 'MetWrench' being hawked on the infomercials. It promised you could use > its one set of sockets and wrenches on both SAE and metric nuts; in a > moment of weakness I bought a set. Surprisingly, the tools were very good > quality and for the most part work as advertised--they contact the flats of > nuts instead of the corners--and I can even usually find one that will work > on Whitworth nuts. Has saved me similar anguish as this on several > occasions (I don't think they have a deep socket that large, though). > > Bob > > On 12/27/2019 9:34 AM, Michael MacLean wrote: > > Just checked the moss catalog. They only list a UNF nut for a 100 without > giving the size. That is what I bought, so I have to find a socket that > will fit whatever size it is. I guess I don't have the right size socket > in an SAE size that fits. Using a metric that is close just to get it to > 40 ft lbs to find out the right combination of spacers. Oh boy, an excuse > to go look for another tool (socket). > Mike M > > On Friday, December 27, 2019, 9:30:52 AM PST, Michael MacLean > wrote: > > > Didn't I buy these spindles for my BN2 from you David? Did you sell me a > BN1 or 2 set? > Mike M. > > On Friday, December 27, 2019, 8:33:39 AM PST, David Nock > wrote: > > > I am only referring to the Spindle Nut, The BN1 spindle has a BSF thread > and the BN2 on has a UNF thread. > > > David Nock > healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > 209 948 8767 > www.britishcarspecialists.com > > Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the > British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites > by visiting the site at. > www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org > > *From:* John Harper > *Sent:* Friday, December 27, 2019 8:21 AM > *To:* David Nock > *Cc:* Healeys > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Spindle Nut > > David > > If we are talking about studs in the hubs there were four on the early BN1 > and five on the later BN1s, BN2 and beyond. > > The early hubs came from a range of Austin vehicles where Austin parts > were mainly BSF on vehicles such as the A40 Somerset > > With the merger into BMC mainly UNF threads were introduced on cars such > as the A90 Westminster > > So to say that just studs where changed is misleading. The hubs in total > were different and not interchangeable from the early BN1 to later the > later BN1 and BN2 > Best regards > > On Fri, 27 Dec 2019 at 14:56, David Nock wrote: > > This would depend if is a BN1 or BN2. Th BN1 is a bad thread then they > changed to unf threads > > David Nock > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 26, 2019, at 5:09 PM, Michael MacLean > wrote: > > ?What size is the spindle nut on a 100? I can't seem to find an exact > match deep enough among all my sockets. > Mike MacLean > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahmg at aol.com Sat Dec 28 16:37:37 2019 From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming) Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2019 18:37:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround References: Message-ID: I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sat Dec 28 17:28:10 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 00:28:10 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Ken, There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Dec 28 18:25:11 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 01:25:11 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1088222387.4496000.1577582711242@mail.yahoo.com> Holly's no longer anodizes classic car aluminum trim.Mike MacLeanp Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Sat, Dec 28, 2019 at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sat Dec 28 19:02:16 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small) Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2019 21:02:16 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100 Cockpit Surround References: Message-ID: I sent this to Ken earlier but thought it may apply to others out there. Ken I was on the same path as you 20 years ago. Photos were taken a few minutes ago. These pieces were sanded and polished back then in the hopes of taking them to a plater when funds allowed. They are still the same all these years later. I wipe them once a year with a aluminum cleaner/ polish and then light wax. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5795.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 29216 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5796.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 24068 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_5800.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 33868 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- Sent from my iPhone From dwflagg at juno.com Sat Dec 28 19:09:34 2019 From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 02:09:34 GMT Subject: [Healeys] Healey on eBay Message-ID: <20191228.210934.4463.0@webmail02.dca.untd.com> There is a 1967 Austin Healey 3000 MK III listed on eBay for a BIN of 999,999.99!! ____________________________________________________________ Urologist Tells Men To "Fix" Their ED With This New Trick! Med Journal http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5e080b0b77fe6b0b5371st03duc -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From sentenac.rw at gmail.com Sat Dec 28 19:46:38 2019 From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com) Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2019 18:46:38 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] (fwd) Re: 100/4 Cockpit Surround Message-ID: On Sat, 28 Dec 2019 18:45:30 -0800, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote: >Ken, > >I don't know where you are located, although Jean Caron's response >suggests that you might be in Canada. Down here in San Diego County, >California there are quite a few shops that are capable of anodizing >in the way that you need. They can strip the old anodizing, but they >will not sand out gouges, pits and other marks. You need to do that >or get another shop to do it for you. Also, you need to specify the >type of clear anodizing that you want. Sorry but my 82 year old brain >can't come up with the exact specs that I needed two years ago. Type >1 sticks in my mind, but no guarantees. > >I suspect that there are shops that can do the anodizing that you need >in most parts of Canada and the USA. You need to know all of the >magic specification words, though, and give them the pieces ready for >them to anodize. > >I took #724's pieces to the shop twice. First time for them to strip >the old anodizing. Second time after I was sufficiently tired of >sanding out the nicks and scratches. > >There are probably shops that will take your pieces as is. They will >cost you a bundle. And if they give your fragile pieces to a trainee >at the buffing wheel they can warp, bend and ruin them. Just >anodizing is pretty cheap. > >If I wasn't building a Concours car I would do what Perry did. It >probably looks shinier than anodizing and won't wear out. > >-Roland > >On Sat, 28 Dec 2019 18:37:37 -0500, you wrote: > >>I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. >>Ken >> >>Sent from my iPhone >>_______________________________________________ From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sat Dec 28 20:23:20 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2019 22:23:20 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] (fwd) Re: 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jest to confuse issue ... I am fairly sure that the original finish was actually "Britedip" which is the same finish as was used on GM bus window frames. Not sure if that process is still available but I too am looking to get a set done. M On Sat, Dec 28, 2019, 9:46 PM , wrote: > On Sat, 28 Dec 2019 18:45:30 -0800, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote: > > >Ken, > > > >I don't know where you are located, although Jean Caron's response > >suggests that you might be in Canada. Down here in San Diego County, > >California there are quite a few shops that are capable of anodizing > >in the way that you need. They can strip the old anodizing, but they > >will not sand out gouges, pits and other marks. You need to do that > >or get another shop to do it for you. Also, you need to specify the > >type of clear anodizing that you want. Sorry but my 82 year old brain > >can't come up with the exact specs that I needed two years ago. Type > >1 sticks in my mind, but no guarantees. > > > >I suspect that there are shops that can do the anodizing that you need > >in most parts of Canada and the USA. You need to know all of the > >magic specification words, though, and give them the pieces ready for > >them to anodize. > > > >I took #724's pieces to the shop twice. First time for them to strip > >the old anodizing. Second time after I was sufficiently tired of > >sanding out the nicks and scratches. > > > >There are probably shops that will take your pieces as is. They will > >cost you a bundle. And if they give your fragile pieces to a trainee > >at the buffing wheel they can warp, bend and ruin them. Just > >anodizing is pretty cheap. > > > >If I wasn't building a Concours car I would do what Perry did. It > >probably looks shinier than anodizing and won't wear out. > > > >-Roland > > > >On Sat, 28 Dec 2019 18:37:37 -0500, you wrote: > > > >>I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred > but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone > on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly > and or has experience with anyone. > >>Ken > >> > >>Sent from my iPhone > >>_______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sat Dec 28 20:25:02 2019 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2019 20:25:02 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Message-ID: <444hyaa5w8g9y41jnknstmbt.1577580726941@email.android.com> KAEHR Plating in Albuquerque NM On December 28, 2019, at 5:28 PM, Jean Caron wrote: Ken, There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. ? Jean ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround ? I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Sat Dec 28 20:52:01 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 03:52:01 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: <444hyaa5w8g9y41jnknstmbt.1577580726941@email.android.com> References: <444hyaa5w8g9y41jnknstmbt.1577580726941@email.android.com> Message-ID: <331110278.4528720.1577591521773@mail.yahoo.com> Ano-Brite in North Hollywood specializes in British car anodizing.? (818) 982-0997Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Sat, Dec 28, 2019 at 7:25 PM, David Porter wrote: _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From ynotink at msn.com Sat Dec 28 21:38:21 2019 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 04:38:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: A local firm in Albuquerque anodized some new pieces for me, but the results were so bad I had the anodize removed and just polished them. I figure at this point in its life the old girl may appreciate some additional pampering in the form of periodically polishing the alloy trim. I don't know if the problem was in the anodizing process, the new alloy materials or my preparation work. They no longer do the process called "bright anodizing" so in order to get decent result you need to polish the parts to a very high gloss and then have it "clear anodized". Mine came out kind of grayish with dark streaks running through it. Again these were new pieces from Moss. For now I can get by with some aluminum polish and elbow grease applied a few times a year. As a bonus it is easy to eliminate new scratches by working them out with emery cloth and re-polishing them. Can't do that with an anodized layer. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2019 11:37 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sat Dec 28 21:53:38 2019 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 14:53:38 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <752402$84s3k4@icp-osb-irony-out8.iinet.net.au> ...mine had damage (from an axe) too deep to polish out. I filled dents with Devcon & had them powder coated. Hard to tell the difference. Cheers Peter Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: Sunday, 29 December 2019 9:42 AM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/greylinn at ozemail.com.au -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sat Dec 28 23:37:06 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sat, 28 Dec 2019 22:37:06 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <003301d5be12$64646ed0$2d2d4c70$@sbcglobal.net> The streaks might have been from some type of contamination. The anodizing shops in Silicon Valley would not be in business if their work products did not meet very high quality standards. This is a link to anodizing: http://www.omwcorp.com/understanding-and-specifying-anodizing-2/ John '62 BT7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2019 8:38 PM To: Ken Fleming via Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround A local firm in Albuquerque anodized some new pieces for me, but the results were so bad I had the anodize removed and just polished them. I figure at this point in its life the old girl may appreciate some additional pampering in the form of periodically polishing the alloy trim. I don't know if the problem was in the anodizing process, the new alloy materials or my preparation work. They no longer do the process called "bright anodizing" so in order to get decent result you need to polish the parts to a very high gloss and then have it "clear anodized". Mine came out kind of grayish with dark streaks running through it. Again these were new pieces from Moss. For now I can get by with some aluminum polish and elbow grease applied a few times a year. As a bonus it is easy to eliminate new scratches by working them out with emery cloth and re-polishing them. Can't do that with an anodized layer. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 _____ From: Healeys > on behalf of Ken Fleming via Healeys > Sent: Saturday, December 28, 2019 11:37 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schottc at knology.net Sun Dec 29 13:56:20 2019 From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 15:56:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Window Regulator In-Reply-To: <12838fec-698a-4b45-b7b0-1fcfb0f1747b@earthlink.net> References: <12838fec-698a-4b45-b7b0-1fcfb0f1747b@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <935520378.2524711.1577652980627.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net> I have a brand new BJ8 RH window regulator still in its never opened package. I'm offering it to the members for $80 plus shipping before I put it on ebay. Anyone interested? Regards, Charlie S chott Panama City Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/schottc at knology.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Sun Dec 29 15:23:12 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 14:23:12 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron wrote: > > ? > Ken, > There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Ken Fleming via Healeys > Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround > > I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. > Ken > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 > > Healeys at autox.team.net > https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 > > Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sun Dec 29 15:31:18 2019 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 17:31:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Hood sticks closed Message-ID: <002501d5be97$b0d55dd0$12801970$@gmail.com> After the engine was rebuilt, I installed the hood very carefully and have adjusted it several times. However, the hood poops up only partially so the locking jaws come back to hold it down. The only way to get it to open completely is to have someone pull the release and hold it so I can raise the hood out of the jaws. Yes, the jaws are well greased as tis the pin. Ideas? Bob Begani BJ8 67 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Dec 29 15:34:11 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 17:34:11 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi David, I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it? It would certainly make life a lot easier. Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. I'd love to know where they have it done. M BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! *People probably don't say much about brite dipping chemistry for a number of reasons. First, very few anodizers do brite dipping, which limits the amount of response we can expect. Second, there are a number of proprietary suppliers, and people may not be sure if a composition they know of is generic knowledge or is actually a proprietary trade secret they can get in trouble for publishing. Third -- and most important -- those who are familiar with it realize this is a really, really, nasty solution that requires specially designed garage-door type fume containment (not conventional lip exhaust or push-pull exhaust), special unconventional fume scrubbers to deal with the wild NOx fuming and high solubility of nitric acid that conventional fume scrubbers can't handle, and very well engineered secondary containment because it is extremely aggressive even to expensive construction materials. This stuff running on the floor after eating through a 316L stainless tank is a major concern. * On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:23 PM David Nock wrote: > Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then > have it clear powdered coated > > David Nock > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron < > vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote: > > ? > > Ken, > > There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they > have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for > that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too > long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. > > > > Jean > > > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > > *From: *Ken Fleming via Healeys > *Sent: *December 28, 2019 5:38 PM > *To: *Healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject: *[Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround > > > > I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but > have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on > list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and > or has experience with anyone. > Ken > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net > https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: > https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 > https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 > > Healeys at autox.team.net > > https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Sun Dec 29 15:40:59 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 14:40:59 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yes we clear powder coat them all the time. Did mine18 years ago and still look great. A little brighter than anodizing David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 29, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > > ? > Hi David, > I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it? > It would certainly make life a lot easier. > Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. > I'd love to know where they have it done. > > M > > BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! > > People probably don't say much about brite dipping chemistry for a number of reasons. > First, very few anodizers do brite dipping, which limits the amount of response we can expect. > Second, there are a number of proprietary suppliers, and people may not be sure if a composition they know of is generic knowledge or is actually a proprietary trade secret they can get in trouble for publishing. > Third -- and most important -- those who are familiar with it realize this is a really, really, nasty solution that requires specially designed garage-door type fume containment (not conventional lip exhaust or push-pull exhaust), special unconventional fume scrubbers to deal with the wild NOx fuming and high solubility of nitric acid that conventional fume scrubbers can't handle, and very well engineered secondary containment because it is extremely aggressive even to expensive construction materials. This stuff running on the floor after eating through a 316L stainless tank is a major concern. > >> On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:23 PM David Nock wrote: >> Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated >> >> David Nock >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>>> On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron wrote: >>>> >>> ? >>> Ken, >>> >>> There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. >>> >>> >>> >>> Jean >>> >>> >>> >>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10 >>> >>> >>> >>> From: Ken Fleming via Healeys >>> Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM >>> To: Healeys at autox.team.net >>> Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround >>> >>> >>> >>> I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. >>> Ken >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Healeys at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >>> >>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com >> > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Sun Dec 29 15:44:32 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 17:44:32 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Hood sticks closed In-Reply-To: <002501d5be97$b0d55dd0$12801970$@gmail.com> References: <002501d5be97$b0d55dd0$12801970$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Bob, I have had the same problem and eventually discovered that the shroud of the peg (arrowed) was tipping sideways ad partially entering the "jaws". [image: image.png] The solution was to carefully center the pin to the hole in the catch. I found that covering the catch hole with masking tape and pressing down gently helped to determine which way to move the peg. M On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:31 PM Robert Begani wrote: > After the engine was rebuilt, I installed the hood very carefully and have > adjusted it several times. However, the hood poops up only partially so the > locking jaws come back to hold it down. The only way to get it to open > completely is to have someone pull the release and hold it so I can raise > the hood out of the jaws. Yes, the jaws are well greased as tis the pin. > Ideas? > > > > Bob Begani > > BJ8 67 > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image.png Type: image/png Size: 946856 bytes Desc: not available URL: From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com Sun Dec 29 15:50:53 2019 From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 22:50:53 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Doesn?t the heat from powder coating warp aluminum at all. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: David Nock Sent: December 29, 2019 4:41 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: Jean Caron; AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Yes we clear powder coat them all the time. Did mine18 years ago and still look great. A little brighter than anodizing David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 29, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Michael Salter wrote: ? Hi David, I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it? It would certainly make life a lot easier. Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. I'd love to know where they have it done. M BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! People probably don't say much about brite dipping chemistry for a number of reasons. First, very few anodizers do brite dipping, which limits the amount of response we can expect. Second, there are a number of proprietary suppliers, and people may not be sure if a composition they know of is generic knowledge or is actually a proprietary trade secret they can get in trouble for publishing. Third -- and most important -- those who are familiar with it realize this is a really, really, nasty solution that requires specially designed garage-door type fume containment (not conventional lip exhaust or push-pull exhaust), special unconventional fume scrubbers to deal with the wild NOx fuming and high solubility of nitric acid that conventional fume scrubbers can't handle, and very well engineered secondary containment because it is extremely aggressive even to expensive construction materials. This stuff running on the floor after eating through a 316L stainless tank is a major concern. On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:23 PM David Nock > wrote: Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron > wrote: ? Ken, There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From frogeye at porterscustom.com Sun Dec 29 15:50:48 2019 From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David Porter) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 15:50:48 -0700 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Message-ID: In one of the Healey books there was an early instance of wrapping it in vinyl. A good choice in hot climates and it hides any dings. No more scalded arms. DP On December 29, 2019, at 3:40 PM, David Nock wrote: Yes we clear powder coat them all the time. Did mine18 years ago and still look great. A little brighter than anodizing? David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 29, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Michael Salter wrote: ? Hi David, I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it? It would certainly make life a lot easier. Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. I'd love to know where they have it done. M BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! People probably don't say much about brite dipping chemistry for a number of reasons. First, very few anodizers do brite dipping, which limits the amount of response we can expect. Second, there are a number of proprietary suppliers, and people may not be sure if a composition they know of is generic knowledge or is actually a proprietary trade secret they can get in trouble for publishing. Third -- and most important -- those who are familiar with it realize this is a really, really, nasty solution that requires specially designed garage-door type fume containment (not conventional lip exhaust or push-pull exhaust), special unconventional fume scrubbers to deal with the wild NOx fuming and high solubility of nitric acid that conventional fume scrubbers can't handle, and very well engineered secondary containment because it is extremely aggressive even to expensive construction materials. This stuff running on the floor after eating through a 316L stainless tank is a major concern. On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:23 PM David Nock wrote: Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated? David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron wrote: ? Ken, There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. ? Jean ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround ? I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From greylinn at ozemail.com.au Sun Dec 29 15:55:20 2019 From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 08:55:20 +1000 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: ...one of the guys in our (Queensland) club has his vinyl covered ? looks good Cheers Peter Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: David Porter Sent: Monday, 30 December 2019 8:53 AM To: David Nock; 'Michael Salter' Cc: healeys at autox team. net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In one of the Healey books there was an early instance of wrapping it in vinyl. A good choice in hot climates and it hides any dings. No more scalded arms. DP On December 29, 2019, at 3:40 PM, David Nock wrote: Yes we clear powder coat them all the time. Did mine18 years ago and still look great. A little brighter than anodizing? David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 29, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Michael Salter wrote: ? Hi David, I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it? It would certainly make life a lot easier. Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. I'd love to know where they have it done. M BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! People probably don't say much about brite dipping chemistry for a number of reasons. First, very few anodizers do brite dipping, which limits the amount of response we can expect. Second, there are a number of proprietary suppliers, and people may not be sure if a composition they know of is generic knowledge or is actually a proprietary trade secret they can get in trouble for publishing. Third -- and most important -- those who are familiar with it realize this is a really, really, nasty solution that requires specially designed garage-door type fume containment (not conventional lip exhaust or push-pull exhaust), special unconventional fume scrubbers to deal with the wild NOx fuming and high solubility of nitric acid that conventional fume scrubbers can't handle, and very well engineered secondary containment because it is extremely aggressive even to expensive construction materials. This stuff running on the floor after eating through a 316L stainless tank is a major concern. On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:23 PM David Nock wrote: Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated? David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron wrote: ? Ken, There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. ? Jean ? Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ? From: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround ? I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 ? _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 29 16:03:18 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 15:03:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001601d5be9c$291909a0$7b4b1ce0$@sbcglobal.net> Powder coating is good but the finish is not as hard as anodizing would be. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2019 2:23 PM To: Jean Caron Cc: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron > wrote: ? Ken, There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlookcom/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmailcom &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 29 16:03:18 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 15:03:18 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001601d5be9c$291909a0$7b4b1ce0$@sbcglobal.net> Powder coating is good but the finish is not as hard as anodizing would be. From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2019 2:23 PM To: Jean Caron Cc: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron > wrote: ? Ken, There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlookcom/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmailcom &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au Sun Dec 29 16:06:10 2019 From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 10:06:10 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <003b01d5be9c$900e2780$b02a7680$@tpg.com.au> Hello Covering the cockpit surrounds in leather matching the seats was an option extra with the four-cylinder cars, and was popular with 100M purchasers. Hoo Roo Patrick Quinn Blue Mountains, Australia From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Porter Sent: Monday, 30 December 2019 9:51 AM To: David Nock; 'Michael Salter' Cc: healeys at autox team. net Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In one of the Healey books there was an early instance of wrapping it in vinyl. A good choice in hot climates and it hides any dings. No more scalded arms. DP On December 29, 2019, at 3:40 PM, David Nock wrote: Yes we clear powder coat them all the time. Did mine18 years ago and still look great. A little brighter than anodizing David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 29, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Michael Salter wrote: ? Hi David, I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it? It would certainly make life a lot easier. Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. I'd love to know where they have it done. M BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! People probably don't say much about brite dipping chemistry for a number of reasons. First, very few anodizers do brite dipping, which limits the amount of response we can expect. Second, there are a number of proprietary suppliers, and people may not be sure if a composition they know of is generic knowledge or is actually a proprietary trade secret they can get in trouble for publishing. Third -- and most important -- those who are familiar with it realize this is a really, really, nasty solution that requires specially designed garage-door type fume containment (not conventional lip exhaust or push-pull exhaust), special unconventional fume scrubbers to deal with the wild NOx fuming and high solubility of nitric acid that conventional fume scrubbers can't handle, and very well engineered secondary containment because it is extremely aggressive even to expensive construction materials. This stuff running on the floor after eating through a 316L stainless tank is a major concern. On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:23 PM David Nock wrote: Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron wrote: ? Ken, There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Sun Dec 29 16:07:49 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 15:07:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On the 100/4 there was an optyfor the trim to be leather wrapped David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 29, 2019, at 2:53 PM, Jean Caron wrote: > > ? > Doesn?t the heat from powder coating warp aluminum at all. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: David Nock > Sent: December 29, 2019 4:41 PM > To: Michael Salter > Cc: Jean Caron; AH Mail List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround > > Yes we clear powder coat them all the time. Did mine18 years ago and still look great. A little brighter than anodizing > > David Nock > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Dec 29, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > > ? > Hi David, > I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it? > It would certainly make life a lot easier. > Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. > I'd love to know where they have it done. > > M > > BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! > > People probably don't say much about brite dipping chemistry for a number of reasons. > First, very few anodizers do brite dipping, which limits the amount of response we can expect. > Second, there are a number of proprietary suppliers, and people may not be sure if a composition they know of is generic knowledge or is actually a proprietary trade secret they can get in trouble for publishing. > Third -- and most important -- those who are familiar with it realize this is a really, really, nasty solution that requires specially designed garage-door type fume containment (not conventional lip exhaust or push-pull exhaust), special unconventional fume scrubbers to deal with the wild NOx fuming and high solubility of nitric acid that conventional fume scrubbers can't handle, and very well engineered secondary containment because it is extremely aggressive even to expensive construction materials. This stuff running on the floor after eating through a 316L stainless tank is a major concern. > > On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:23 PM David Nock wrote: > Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated > > David Nock > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron wrote: > > ? > Ken, > There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Ken Fleming via Healeys > Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround > > I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. > Ken > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 > > Healeys at autox.team.net > https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 > > Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeydoc at gmail.com Sun Dec 29 16:08:40 2019 From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 15:08:40 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <5303C9F0-0E94-4C6F-9DA0-8E860A07026F@gmail.com> They don?t heat it that much to warp the trim. David Nock Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 29, 2019, at 2:53 PM, Jean Caron wrote: > > ? > Doesn?t the heat from powder coating warp aluminum at all. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: David Nock > Sent: December 29, 2019 4:41 PM > To: Michael Salter > Cc: Jean Caron; AH Mail List > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround > > Yes we clear powder coat them all the time. Did mine18 years ago and still look great. A little brighter than anodizing > > David Nock > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Dec 29, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Michael Salter wrote: > > ? > Hi David, > I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it? > It would certainly make life a lot easier. > Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. > I'd love to know where they have it done. > > M > > BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! > > People probably don't say much about brite dipping chemistry for a number of reasons. > First, very few anodizers do brite dipping, which limits the amount of response we can expect. > Second, there are a number of proprietary suppliers, and people may not be sure if a composition they know of is generic knowledge or is actually a proprietary trade secret they can get in trouble for publishing. > Third -- and most important -- those who are familiar with it realize this is a really, really, nasty solution that requires specially designed garage-door type fume containment (not conventional lip exhaust or push-pull exhaust), special unconventional fume scrubbers to deal with the wild NOx fuming and high solubility of nitric acid that conventional fume scrubbers can't handle, and very well engineered secondary containment because it is extremely aggressive even to expensive construction materials. This stuff running on the floor after eating through a 316L stainless tank is a major concern. > > On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:23 PM David Nock wrote: > Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated > > David Nock > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron wrote: > > ? > Ken, > There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. > > Jean > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Ken Fleming via Healeys > Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM > To: Healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround > > I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. > Ken > > Sent from my iPhone > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 > > Healeys at autox.team.net > https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 > > Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Dec 29 16:11:38 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 18:11:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Listers If you want to go the powder coating route you may want to contact these folks: My intent was to take a surround up to the shop tomorrow and get some feedback from Jim but not sure that will happen. So you might want to contact them directly. They do blasting for me like chassis and body panels but I have not had a need for their powder coating yet. My understanding they can do any color including clear. What I have seen at the shop looks like nice work. Perry ? ? ? ? Name /Address American Precision Powder Coating, LLc 1296 Airport Road Aliquippa (Hopewell Twp.), PA? 15001 Contact: Jim Verostek, President Telephone: 724-788-1691 ? ? FAX: 724-788-1721 ? ? Email: info at appowdercoating.com Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2019 5:34 PM To: David Nock Cc: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Hi David, I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it? It would certainly make life a lot easier. Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. I'd love to know where they have it done. M BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Sun Dec 29 16:11:38 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 18:11:38 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Listers If you want to go the powder coating route you may want to contact these folks: My intent was to take a surround up to the shop tomorrow and get some feedback from Jim but not sure that will happen. So you might want to contact them directly. They do blasting for me like chassis and body panels but I have not had a need for their powder coating yet. My understanding they can do any color including clear. What I have seen at the shop looks like nice work. Perry ? ? ? ? Name /Address American Precision Powder Coating, LLc 1296 Airport Road Aliquippa (Hopewell Twp.), PA? 15001 Contact: Jim Verostek, President Telephone: 724-788-1691 ? ? FAX: 724-788-1721 ? ? Email: info at appowdercoating.com Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Michael Salter Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2019 5:34 PM To: David Nock Cc: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Hi David, I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it? It would certainly make life a lot easier. Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. I'd love to know where they have it done. M BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 29 19:46:43 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 18:46:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <005701d5bebb$5f8ee620$1eacb260$@sbcglobal.net> Different powers fuse at different temperatures. I believe it is heated to around 450 F. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2019 2:51 PM To: David Nock ; Michael Salter Cc: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Doesn?t the heat from powder coating warp aluminum at all. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: David Nock Sent: December 29, 2019 4:41 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: Jean Caron ; AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Yes we clear powder coat them all the time. Did mine18 years ago and still look great. A little brighter than anodizing David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 29, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Michael Salter > wrote: ? Hi David, I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it? It would certainly make life a lot easier. Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. I'd love to know where they have it done. M BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! People probably don't say much about brite dipping chemistry for a number of reasons. First, very few anodizers do brite dipping, which limits the amount of response we can expect. Second, there are a number of proprietary suppliers, and people may not be sure if a composition they know of is generic knowledge or is actually a proprietary trade secret they can get in trouble for publishing. Third -- and most important -- those who are familiar with it realize this is a really, really, nasty solution that requires specially designed garage-door type fume containment (not conventional lip exhaust or push-pull exhaust), special unconventional fume scrubbers to deal with the wild NOx fuming and high solubility of nitric acid that conventional fume scrubbers can't handle, and very well engineered secondary containment because it is extremely aggressive even to expensive construction materials. This stuff running on the floor after eating through a 316L stainless tank is a major concern. On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:23 PM David Nock > wrote: Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron > wrote: ? Ken, There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 29 19:46:43 2019 From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur) Date: Sun, 29 Dec 2019 18:46:43 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: <005701d5bebb$5f8ee620$1eacb260$@sbcglobal.net> Different powers fuse at different temperatures. I believe it is heated to around 450 F. John From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jean Caron Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2019 2:51 PM To: David Nock ; Michael Salter Cc: AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Doesn?t the heat from powder coating warp aluminum at all. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: David Nock Sent: December 29, 2019 4:41 PM To: Michael Salter Cc: Jean Caron ; AH Mail List Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Yes we clear powder coat them all the time. Did mine18 years ago and still look great. A little brighter than anodizing David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 29, 2019, at 2:34 PM, Michael Salter > wrote: ? Hi David, I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it? It would certainly make life a lot easier. Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. I'd love to know where they have it done. M BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! People probably don't say much about brite dipping chemistry for a number of reasons. First, very few anodizers do brite dipping, which limits the amount of response we can expect. Second, there are a number of proprietary suppliers, and people may not be sure if a composition they know of is generic knowledge or is actually a proprietary trade secret they can get in trouble for publishing. Third -- and most important -- those who are familiar with it realize this is a really, really, nasty solution that requires specially designed garage-door type fume containment (not conventional lip exhaust or push-pull exhaust), special unconventional fume scrubbers to deal with the wild NOx fuming and high solubility of nitric acid that conventional fume scrubbers can't handle, and very well engineered secondary containment because it is extremely aggressive even to expensive construction materials. This stuff running on the floor after eating through a 316L stainless tank is a major concern. On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:23 PM David Nock > wrote: Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron > wrote: ? Ken, There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it. Jean Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0 https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com &data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rfbegani at gmail.com Sun Dec 29 22:55:04 2019 From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 00:55:04 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump Message-ID: <00af01d5bed5$afa33d40$0ee9b7c0$@gmail.com> When I rebuilt the engine last year I did not replace the oil pump because I had good oil pressure. Currently, from time to time, while breaking in the engine I am driving the car round trip 20-30 miles down the Tamiami Trail which is an open road for that stretch.. On a recent trip, the weather was cool, so the oil pressure was running 35 to 40 psi while the engine temperature was going up to 180 at 3000 rpm. At 4000 rpm the temperature climbed over 180 degrees and the oil pressure dropped below 30 psi. . I am considering replacing the oil pump and remember that there is a discussion about the quality of Moss pumps. Maybe I should buy the rebuild kit and change gears? Oh by the way, on the last run all hell broke loose and had the car towed home. Seems the mushroom on top of one of the push rods broke. So I am replacing all 12 of them. Regards, Bob Begani -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Dec 30 07:19:55 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 09:19:55 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump In-Reply-To: <00af01d5bed5$afa33d40$0ee9b7c0$@gmail.com> References: <00af01d5bed5$afa33d40$0ee9b7c0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Robert, you are the second person that I have heard of who had that problem with "cheapo repo" push rods. It seems that those that are currently available are produced with too small a diameter of the cup so they seize on the rocker ball and break off. I would recommend that you inspect all the rocker ball ends carefully then install a set of good used push rods to prevent further problems. M BTW depending upon who supplied the bad parts you may be able to recover the costs involved. On Mon, Dec 30, 2019, 12:55 AM Robert Begani, wrote: > When I rebuilt the engine last year I did not replace the oil pump because > I had good oil pressure. Currently, from time to time, while breaking in > the engine I am driving the car round trip 20-30 miles down the Tamiami > Trail which is an open road for that stretch.. On a recent trip, the > weather was cool, so the oil pressure was running 35 to 40 psi while the > engine temperature was going up to 180 at 3000 rpm. At 4000 rpm the > temperature climbed over 180 degrees and the oil pressure dropped below 30 > psi. . I am considering replacing the oil pump and remember that there is > a discussion about the quality of Moss pumps. Maybe I should buy the > rebuild kit and change gears? > > > > Oh by the way, on the last run all hell broke loose and had the car towed > home. Seems the mushroom on top of one of the push rods broke. So I am > replacing all 12 of them. > > > > Regards, > > > > Bob Begani > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From warthodson at aol.com Mon Dec 30 08:48:22 2019 From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 15:48:22 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround References: <1174946306.5814578.1577720902690.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1174946306.5814578.1577720902690@mail.yahoo.com> After several disappointing anodizing attempts I had mine powder coated. I was very satisfied with the look. However, after several long road trips it began to blister & peal off in certain areas. It only happened on the drivers door. not the passenger door or dash or rear shroud. I determined that it was caused by the sun screen I put on my left arm that I lay on the trim while driving. My wife does not use any sun screen. It remains unprotected bare aluminium pending a better option.?Gary Hodson -----Original Message----- From: Michael Salter To: David Nock Cc: AH Mail List Sent: Sun, Dec 29, 2019 4:34 pm Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Hi David,I have been considering having them powder coated have you actually tried it?It would certainly make life a lot easier. Ikea uses a very similar finish of many of their metal parts and the finish is very durable and a perfect match for the original Bright Dip. I'd love to know where they have it done. M BTW I found this on Bright Dip .... Hardly surprising that it is hard to find someone to do it!! People probably don't say much about brite dipping chemistry for a number of reasons. First, very few anodizers do brite dipping, which limits the amount of response we can expect. Second, there are a number of proprietary suppliers, and people may not be sure if a composition they know of is generic knowledge or is actually a proprietary trade secret they can get in trouble for publishing. Third -- and most important -- those who are familiar with it realize this is a really, really, nasty solution that requires specially designed garage-door type fume containment (not conventional lip exhaust or push-pull exhaust), special unconventional fume scrubbers to deal with the wild NOx fuming and high solubility of nitric acid that conventional fume scrubbers can't handle, and very well engineered secondary containment because it is extremely aggressive even to expensive construction materials. This stuff running on the floor after eating through a 316L stainless tank is a major concern. On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:23 PM David Nock wrote: Another option is to have the anodizing remove. Then polish the trim, then have it clear powdered coated? David Nock Sent from my iPhone On Dec 28, 2019, at 4:28 PM, Jean Caron wrote: ?Ken,There was a place in Ontario, Canada called Holly?s Anodizing but they have closed at the end of November, so I am not sure where you would go for that now. I know that House of Silver was considering this service not too long ago, will call them next week if they have decided to start doing it.?Jean?Sent from Mail for Windows 10?From: Ken Fleming via Healeys Sent: December 28, 2019 5:38 PM To: Healeys at autox.team.net Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround?I have been considering re-anodizing the surround pieces on a hundred but have not been able to find someone to perform this service. Can anyone on list share advice on any firm that can anodize these pieces correctly and or has experience with anyone. Ken Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=hz6Ex7lQgIAeNS98Gh0wuCJQAfM6s4Vr1O4x8kWZN7I%3D&reserved=0 Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=8ajpje%2FwMJls1IIwTC7a6F9FIN3rHZMfx4095idHpkE%3D&reserved=0https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=%2BOhfiYyBc4jP3GG%2FrSeNCwnf%2FPhVmfDaz2bBF2ikBFg%3D&reserved=0 Healeys at autox.team.net https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Fhealeys&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089559584&sdata=0FHYPEXzfMg%2BguG6MxBMQd82hD2eBqmR%2FLerbxb2Mt0%3D&reserved=0 Unsubscribe/Manage: https://apc01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Fmailman%2Foptions%2Fhealeys%2Fvintage_roadster_restoration%40hotmail.com&data=02%7C01%7C%7C2d8d994e87184f8d7f6708d78bef0985%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637131731089569589&sdata=jK6%2F4D4qYwsTK0j8VK0Ff2pi3v4pILWcCCc%2B22vL%2BLk%3D&reserved=0?_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Dec 30 09:03:41 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 08:03:41 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump In-Reply-To: References: <00af01d5bed5$afa33d40$0ee9b7c0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <68d8bbdd-5405-c6d3-a168-c9183b193913@comcast.net> Haven't heard anything about Moss's oil pumps, but if they're made by County you have reason to be cautious; County water pumps are notoriously bad for a number of reasons.? When I rebuilt my BJ8's engine I sprung for a DWM 'high capacity' oil pump which, with the exchange rate at the time and coming along with other parts was competitive.? Inspect the pump drive shaft; they can wear and you might need a replacement (IIRC, the DWM shaft was /considerably /cheaper than Moss's). I have a feeling there may be something else involved as well, like bearings, but since you rebuilt the engine presumably you replaced main and rod end bearings and checked clearances carefully?? What viscosity/brand oil are you using? Bob On 12/30/2019 6:19 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > Hi Robert, you are the second person that I have heard of who had that > problem with "cheapo repo" push rods. > It seems that those that are currently available are produced with too > small a diameter of the cup so they seize on the rocker ball and break > off. > I would recommend that you inspect all the rocker ball ends carefully > then install a set of good used push rods to prevent further problems. > > M > > BTW depending upon who supplied the bad parts you may be able to > recover the costs involved. > > > On Mon, Dec 30, 2019, 12:55 AM Robert Begani, > wrote: > > When I rebuilt the engine last year I did not replace the oil pump > because I had good oil pressure. Currently, from time to time, > while breaking in the engine I am driving the car round trip 20-30 > miles down the Tamiami Trail which is an open road for that > stretch..? On a recent trip, the weather was cool, so the oil > pressure was running 35 to 40 psi while the engine temperature was > going up to 180 at 3000 rpm.? At 4000 rpm the temperature climbed > over 180 degrees and the oil pressure dropped below 30 psi. .? I > am considering replacing the oil pump and remember that there is a > discussion about the quality of Moss pumps. Maybe I should buy the > rebuild kit and change gears? > > Oh by the way, on the last run all hell broke loose and had the > car towed home.? Seems the mushroom on top of one of the push rods > broke.? So I am replacing all 12 of them. > > Regards, > > Bob Begani > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Mon Dec 30 09:49:32 2019 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 08:49:32 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Hood sticks closed In-Reply-To: References: <002501d5be97$b0d55dd0$12801970$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <0b8601d5bf31$1e193990$5a4bacb0$@roadrunner.com> I had the same issue the first time I reinstalled the hood. Getting the latch aligned can take a lot of trial and error. I have tried the masking tape trick, and it was somewhat helpful. Spread a little grease on the shroud to leave a ring on the masking tape. The whole striker receiving assembly also is adjustable; the mounting holes are larger than the bolts allowing adjustment in all directions. I found that loosening the mountings on both the striker and receiver slightly and tapping with a small mallet finally resulted in good fit and function. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2019 2:45 PM To: Robert Begani Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Hood sticks closed Hi Bob, I have had the same problem and eventually discovered that the shroud of the peg (arrowed) was tipping sideways ad partially entering the "jaws". The solution was to carefully center the pin to the hole in the catch. I found that covering the catch hole with masking tape and pressing down gently helped to determine which way to move the peg. M On Sun, Dec 29, 2019 at 5:31 PM Robert Begani > wrote: After the engine was rebuilt, I installed the hood very carefully and have adjusted it several times. However, the hood poops up only partially so the locking jaws come back to hold it down. The only way to get it to open completely is to have someone pull the release and hold it so I can raise the hood out of the jaws. Yes, the jaws are well greased as tis the pin. Ideas? Bob Begani BJ8 67 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image002.png Type: image/png Size: 394598 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Mon Dec 30 09:52:57 2019 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 08:52:57 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump In-Reply-To: References: <00af01d5bed5$afa33d40$0ee9b7c0$@gmail.com> Message-ID: <0b9a01d5bf31$98198650$c84c92f0$@roadrunner.com> I installed Denis Welch push rods, along with the DWR-1 cam and hollow lifters, when my engine was done. I also run a DWR high capacity oil pump. I run around 40 pounds at speed. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Monday, December 30, 2019 6:20 AM To: Robert Begani Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump Hi Robert, you are the second person that I have heard of who had that problem with "cheapo repo" push rods. It seems that those that are currently available are produced with too small a diameter of the cup so they seize on the rocker ball and break off. I would recommend that you inspect all the rocker ball ends carefully then install a set of good used push rods to prevent further problems. M BTW depending upon who supplied the bad parts you may be able to recover the costs involved. On Mon, Dec 30, 2019, 12:55 AM Robert Begani, > wrote: When I rebuilt the engine last year I did not replace the oil pump because I had good oil pressure. Currently, from time to time, while breaking in the engine I am driving the car round trip 20-30 miles down the Tamiami Trail which is an open road for that stretch.. On a recent trip, the weather was cool, so the oil pressure was running 35 to 40 psi while the engine temperature was going up to 180 at 3000 rpm. At 4000 rpm the temperature climbed over 180 degrees and the oil pressure dropped below 30 psi. . I am considering replacing the oil pump and remember that there is a discussion about the quality of Moss pumps. Maybe I should buy the rebuild kit and change gears? Oh by the way, on the last run all hell broke loose and had the car towed home. Seems the mushroom on top of one of the push rods broke. So I am replacing all 12 of them. Regards, Bob Begani _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyray at yahoo.com Mon Dec 30 11:54:06 2019 From: healeyray at yahoo.com (Ray Juncal) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 18:54:06 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trans rebuild References: <1364960441.4948352.1577732046036.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1364960441.4948352.1577732046036@mail.yahoo.com> I'm looking for a recommendation for a four speed ( BN-2 ) transmission rebuild. I'm in Southern California. What do you think?ThanksRay -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Mon Dec 30 12:01:15 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 19:01:15 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] Trans rebuild In-Reply-To: <1364960441.4948352.1577732046036@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1364960441.4948352.1577732046036.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1364960441.4948352.1577732046036@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <256758136.4971013.1577732475912@mail.yahoo.com> Russ Thompson, Thompson British car repair in Northridge.? He rebuilt my BN2 transmission.Mike MacLean Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 10:57 AM, Ray Juncal via Healeys wrote: I'm looking for a recommendation for a four speed ( BN-2 ) transmission rebuild. I'm in Southern California. What do you think?ThanksRay _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- An embedded and charset-unspecified text was scrubbed... Name: Untitled URL: From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com Mon Dec 30 12:03:01 2019 From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 19:03:01 -0000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump In-Reply-To: <0b9a01d5bf31$98198650$c84c92f0$@roadrunner.com> References: <00af01d5bed5$afa33d40$0ee9b7c0$@gmail.com> <0b9a01d5bf31$98198650$c84c92f0$@roadrunner.com> Message-ID: <000001d5bf43$c33f7e90$49be7bb0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Me too. DW ?High Capacity? type pump which is their version of the older ?rotor? type pump. It does a good job. The newer pumps are ?Gear? type. I gathered, from people who know about these things, that the High Capacity is best all round and the Rotor only comes into its own at high revs. (All of which begs the question as to why BMC switched from one to t?other!) As to County, don?t know if they?ve attempted an oil pump. Their water pump is an inferior item, for sure. I studied Michaels? blog on the topic and stripping down both original types and one County absolutely confirms what he says. Simon From: Healeys On Behalf Of Bruce Steele Sent: 30 December 2019 16:53 To: 'Michael Salter' ; 'Robert Begani' Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump I installed Denis Welch push rods, along with the DWR-1 cam and hollow lifters, when my engine was done. I also run a DWR high capacity oil pump. I run around 40 pounds at speed. Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter Sent: Monday, December 30, 2019 6:20 AM To: Robert Begani > Cc: healeys at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump Hi Robert, you are the second person that I have heard of who had that problem with "cheapo repo" push rods. It seems that those that are currently available are produced with too small a diameter of the cup so they seize on the rocker ball and break off. I would recommend that you inspect all the rocker ball ends carefully then install a set of good used push rods to prevent further problems. M BTW depending upon who supplied the bad parts you may be able to recover the costs involved. On Mon, Dec 30, 2019, 12:55 AM Robert Begani, > wrote: When I rebuilt the engine last year I did not replace the oil pump because I had good oil pressure. Currently, from time to time, while breaking in the engine I am driving the car round trip 20-30 miles down the Tamiami Trail which is an open road for that stretch.. On a recent trip, the weather was cool, so the oil pressure was running 35 to 40 psi while the engine temperature was going up to 180 at 3000 rpm. At 4000 rpm the temperature climbed over 180 degrees and the oil pressure dropped below 30 psi. . I am considering replacing the oil pump and remember that there is a discussion about the quality of Moss pumps. Maybe I should buy the rebuild kit and change gears? Oh by the way, on the last run all hell broke loose and had the car towed home. Seems the mushroom on top of one of the push rods broke. So I am replacing all 12 of them. Regards, Bob Begani _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From michaelsalter at gmail.com Mon Dec 30 12:19:06 2019 From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 14:19:06 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump In-Reply-To: <000001d5bf43$c33f7e90$49be7bb0$@alexarevel.plus.com> References: <00af01d5bed5$afa33d40$0ee9b7c0$@gmail.com> <0b9a01d5bf31$98198650$c84c92f0$@roadrunner.com> <000001d5bf43$c33f7e90$49be7bb0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: *"(All of which begs the question as to why BMC switched from one to t?other!)"* I recall reading in a TSB that the change was made because it was found that the "rotor" pump was causing cam gear failures... M On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 2:05 PM wrote: > Me too. DW ?High Capacity? type pump which is their version of the older > ?rotor? type pump. It does a good job. > > The newer pumps are ?Gear? type. > > I gathered, from people who know about these things, that the High > Capacity is best all round and the Rotor only comes into its own at high > revs. > > (All of which begs the question as to why BMC switched from one to > t?other!) > > As to County, don?t know if they?ve attempted an oil pump. Their water > pump is an inferior item, for sure. I studied Michaels? blog on the topic > and stripping down both original types and one County absolutely confirms > what he says. > > Simon > > > > *From:* Healeys *On Behalf Of *Bruce > Steele > *Sent:* 30 December 2019 16:53 > *To:* 'Michael Salter' ; 'Robert Begani' < > rfbegani at gmail.com> > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump > > > > I installed Denis Welch push rods, along with the DWR-1 cam and hollow > lifters, when my engine was done. I also run a DWR high capacity oil > pump. I run around 40 pounds at speed. > > > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > > > *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > ] *On Behalf Of *Michael Salter > *Sent:* Monday, December 30, 2019 6:20 AM > *To:* Robert Begani > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump > > > > Hi Robert, you are the second person that I have heard of who had that > problem with "cheapo repo" push rods. > > It seems that those that are currently available are produced with too > small a diameter of the cup so they seize on the rocker ball and break off. > > I would recommend that you inspect all the rocker ball ends carefully then > install a set of good used push rods to prevent further problems. > > > > M > > > > BTW depending upon who supplied the bad parts you may be able to recover > the costs involved. > > > > On Mon, Dec 30, 2019, 12:55 AM Robert Begani, wrote: > > When I rebuilt the engine last year I did not replace the oil pump because > I had good oil pressure. Currently, from time to time, while breaking in > the engine I am driving the car round trip 20-30 miles down the Tamiami > Trail which is an open road for that stretch.. On a recent trip, the > weather was cool, so the oil pressure was running 35 to 40 psi while the > engine temperature was going up to 180 at 3000 rpm. At 4000 rpm the > temperature climbed over 180 degrees and the oil pressure dropped below 30 > psi. . I am considering replacing the oil pump and remember that there is > a discussion about the quality of Moss pumps. Maybe I should buy the > rebuild kit and change gears? > > > > Oh by the way, on the last run all hell broke loose and had the car towed > home. Seems the mushroom on top of one of the push rods broke. So I am > replacing all 12 of them. > > > > Regards, > > > > Bob Begani > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Dec 30 16:40:49 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 15:40:49 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump In-Reply-To: References: <00af01d5bed5$afa33d40$0ee9b7c0$@gmail.com> <0b9a01d5bf31$98198650$c84c92f0$@roadrunner.com> <000001d5bf43$c33f7e90$49be7bb0$@alexarevel.plus.com> Message-ID: <6b7c1c74-6e05-343b-3ef4-205d40bf9a7e@comcast.net> I read somewhere--wish I could find the article--that later cams and, I think, the DWM cams have an extra tooth or two to reduce overall wear on the pump drive.? The gear pumps create less resistance at higher RPMs so better for racing (something tells me they might be cheaper to produce, too).? DWM only recommends the gear type for regular over 6K RPM use. It's been a while but, IIRC, I discussed this with the tech guys at DWM and they assured me it is not an issue with the HC pumps anymore, plus their cams are gun-drilled so more internal oil 'leaks.' On 12/30/2019 11:19 AM, Michael Salter wrote: > /"(All of which begs the question as to why BMC switched from one to > t?other!)"/ > I recall reading in a TSB that the change was made because it was > found that the "rotor" pump was causing cam gear failures... > > M > // > > On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 2:05 PM > wrote: > > Me too. DW ?High Capacity? type pump which is their version of the > older ?rotor? type pump. It does a good job. > > The newer pumps are ?Gear? type. > > I gathered, from people who know about these things, that the High > Capacity is best all round and the Rotor only comes into its own > at high revs. > > (All of which begs the question as to why BMC switched from one to > t?other!) > > As to County, don?t know if they?ve attempted an oil pump. Their > water pump is an inferior item, for sure. I studied Michaels? blog > on the topic and stripping down both original types and one County > absolutely confirms what he says. > > Simon > > *From:*Healeys > *On Behalf Of *Bruce Steele > *Sent:* 30 December 2019 16:53 > *To:* 'Michael Salter' >; 'Robert Begani' > > > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump > > I installed Denis Welch push rods, along with the DWR-1 cam and > hollow lifters, when my engine was done.? I also run a DWR high > capacity oil pump.? I run around 40 pounds at speed. > > Bruce Steele > > Brea, CA > > 1960 BN7 > > *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf > Of *Michael Salter > *Sent:* Monday, December 30, 2019 6:20 AM > *To:* Robert Begani > > *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net > *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Oil Pressure and replacing the oil pump > > Hi Robert, you are the second person that I have heard of who had > that problem with "cheapo repo" push rods. > > It seems that those that are currently available are produced with > too small a diameter of the cup so they seize on the rocker ball > and break off. > > I would recommend that you inspect all the rocker ball ends > carefully then install a set of good used push rods to prevent > further problems. > > M > > BTW depending upon who supplied the bad parts you may be able to > recover the costs involved. > > On Mon, Dec 30, 2019, 12:55 AM Robert Begani, > wrote: > > When I rebuilt the engine last year I did not replace the oil > pump because I had good oil pressure. Currently, from time to > time, while breaking in the engine I am driving the car round > trip 20-30 miles down the Tamiami Trail which is an open road > for that stretch..? On a recent trip, the weather was cool, so > the oil pressure was running 35 to 40 psi while the engine > temperature was going up to 180 at 3000 rpm.? At 4000 rpm the > temperature climbed over 180 degrees and the oil pressure > dropped below 30 psi. .? I am considering replacing the oil > pump and remember that there is a discussion about the quality > of Moss pumps.? Maybe I should buy the rebuild kit and change > gears? > > Oh by the way, on the last run all hell broke loose and had > the car towed home.? Seems the mushroom on top of one of the > push rods broke.? So I am replacing all 12 of them. > > Regards, > > Bob Begani > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com > > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Mon Dec 30 16:53:52 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 15:53:52 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Trans rebuild In-Reply-To: <256758136.4971013.1577732475912@mail.yahoo.com> References: <1364960441.4948352.1577732046036.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1364960441.4948352.1577732046036@mail.yahoo.com> <256758136.4971013.1577732475912@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Agreed. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Mon, Dec 30, 2019, 11:05 AM Michael MacLean wrote: > Russ Thompson, Thompson British car repair in Northridge. He rebuilt my > BN2 transmission. > Mike MacLean > > Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android > > > On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 10:57 AM, Ray Juncal via Healeys > wrote: > I'm looking for a recommendation for a four speed ( BN-2 ) transmission > rebuild. I'm in Southern California. What do you think? > Thanks > Ray > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeybruce at roadrunner.com Mon Dec 30 17:35:13 2019 From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 16:35:13 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Trans rebuild In-Reply-To: References: <1364960441.4948352.1577732046036.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <1364960441.4948352.1577732046036@mail.yahoo.com> <256758136.4971013.1577732475912@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <0ddf01d5bf72$2c780de0$856829a0$@roadrunner.com> Russ did mine as well. Shifts wonderfully! Bruce Steele Brea, CA 1960 BN7 From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs Sent: Monday, December 30, 2019 3:54 PM To: Mike MacLean Cc: Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] Trans rebuild Agreed. Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Mon, Dec 30, 2019, 11:05 AM Michael MacLean > wrote: Russ Thompson, Thompson British car repair in Northridge. He rebuilt my BN2 transmission. Mike MacLean Sent from AT &T Yahoo Mail on Android On Mon, Dec 30, 2019 at 10:57 AM, Ray Juncal via Healeys > wrote: I'm looking for a recommendation for a four speed ( BN-2 ) transmission rebuild. I'm in Southern California. What do you think? Thanks Ray _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Mon Dec 30 18:47:14 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 17:47:14 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps Message-ID: [image: DSCN4774.jpg] 100/6 rotor style oil pumps were an engineering disaster. While the design itself is OK, the large physical size of the rotors in the pump creates a lot of resistance and stress in other engine components. It puts great pressure and increased wear on the oil pump driveshaft gear and the camshaft great. This back pressure also results in the camshaft being driven forward more forcefully into the camshaft thrust plate. It also stretches the timing chain. As this problem became apparent, Austin modified the camshaft thrust plate with the addition of a circular oil groove. When that was not sufficient they changed the thrust plate to a bronze type of material with a circular oil groove. Eventually they replaced the rotor style pump with the gear style. I the photo I have attached, the plate on the left is the stock steel thrust plate. The middle plate is a late 100/6 bronze style thrust plate. The thrust plate on the right is the result of using a Denis Welch 100/6 "high volume" oil pump. The cam has ground itself into that thrust plate about 1/8th inch. Look closely at the oil pump driveshaft in the photo and you will see that the gears have been sheared off. The gears on a very expensive Denis Welsh camshaft are also sheared off. Calling a 100/6 oil pump a "high volume" pump is like calling a prostitute a "social worker". They both do the job but the consequences can be tragic. My advice: Do not use a 100/6 oil pump. The gear style pumps are more than adequate. And, don't believe everything you read in the Denis Welch catalogue. If you insist on using the 100/6 oil pump then you should get the Torrington bearing camshaft thrust plate from Denis Welch as well. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DSCN4774.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 3523683 bytes Desc: not available URL: From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Dec 30 20:58:19 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 19:58:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> [If this is a double-post please disregard, my mail server is acting weird] Well, this is distressing.? Using the Torrington thrust bearing would spare the thrust plate, but you'd still get the wear on the gears and stretched timing chain, no?? Given this, and the alleged problems with their 'constant clearance worm' steering box I'm beginning to wonder what's up with DWM/R.? They race, they have fancy new CNC machines and appear to be profitable; why would they be offering (possibly) defective parts (and advice)? My dad and I rebuilt my BJ8's engine at about 80K miles; I bought most of the parts from Sports&Classics in CT--they still around?--and I bought whatever pump they were selling.? I always assumed since it was for a BJ8 it was the gear type, but when I rebuilt the engine again a couple years ago I disassembled the pump; it was the vane type!? I had some wear on the pump driveshaft, but it held up for 120K miles, and I'll likely not put more than a few thousand on the new engine/pump in my remaining years.? I'm also re-thinking my use of 20W-50 oil (but I have 3 dozen qts. so ...). I know of a problem with aircraft engine oil pumps with 'sintered' gears; I believe this is a method of producing the gears by basically melting iron powder in a mold, anybody know if the gear-type Healey pumps use sintered gears? On 12/30/2019 5:47 PM, richard mayor wrote: > > > 100/6 rotor style oil pumps were an engineering disaster. While the > design itself is OK, the large physical size of the rotors in the pump > creates a lot of resistance and stress in other engine components. It > puts great pressure and increased wear on the oil pump driveshaft gear > and the? camshaft great. This back pressure also results in the > camshaft being driven forward more forcefully into the camshaft thrust > plate. It also stretches the timing chain. > > As this problem became apparent, Austin modified the camshaft thrust > plate with the addition of a circular oil groove.? When that was not > sufficient they changed the thrust plate to a bronze type of material > with a circular oil groove. Eventually they replaced the rotor style > pump with the gear style. > > I the photo I have attached, the plate on the left is the stock steel > thrust plate. The middle plate is a late 100/6 bronze style thrust > plate.? The thrust plate on the right is the result of using a Denis > Welch 100/6 "high volume" oil pump. The cam has ground itself into > that thrust plate about 1/8th inch.?? Look closely at the oil pump > driveshaft in the photo and you will see that the gears have been > sheared off. The gears on a very expensive Denis Welsh camshaft are > also sheared off. > > Calling a 100/6 oil pump a "high volume" pump is like calling a > prostitute a "social worker". They both do the job but the > consequences can be tragic. > > My advice:? Do not use a 100/6 oil pump.? The gear style pumps are > more than adequate.? And, don't believe everything you read in the > Denis Welch catalogue. > > If you insist on using the 100/6 oil pump then you should get the > Torrington bearing camshaft thrust plate from Denis Welch as well. > > From bspidell at comcast.net Mon Dec 30 21:48:19 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2019 20:48:19 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4029554c-381a-31e6-ac8b-2bfecdb22251@comcast.net> Correction: Sintering does not actually melt the metal--in this case iron--but uses heat and compression to form shapes. On 12/30/2019 7:58 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: > [If this is a double-post please disregard, my mail server is acting > weird] > > Well, this is distressing.? Using the Torrington thrust bearing would > spare the thrust plate, but you'd still get the wear on the gears and > stretched timing chain, no?? Given this, and the alleged problems with > their 'constant clearance worm' steering box I'm beginning to wonder > what's up with DWM/R.? They race, they have fancy new CNC machines and > appear to be profitable; why would they be offering (possibly) > defective parts (and advice)? > > My dad and I rebuilt my BJ8's engine at about 80K miles; I bought most > of the parts from Sports&Classics in CT--they still around?--and I > bought whatever pump they were selling.? I always assumed since it was > for a BJ8 it was the gear type, but when I rebuilt the engine again a > couple years ago I disassembled the pump; it was the vane type!? I had > some wear on the pump driveshaft, but it held up for 120K miles, and > I'll likely not put more than a few thousand on the new engine/pump in > my remaining years.? I'm also re-thinking my use of 20W-50 oil (but I > have 3 dozen qts. so ...). > > I know of a problem with aircraft engine oil pumps with 'sintered' > gears; I believe this is a method of producing the gears by basically > melting iron powder in a mold, anybody know if the gear-type Healey > pumps use sintered gears? > > On 12/30/2019 5:47 PM, richard mayor wrote: >> >> >> 100/6 rotor style oil pumps were an engineering disaster. While the >> design itself is OK, the large physical size of the rotors in the >> pump creates a lot of resistance and stress in other engine >> components. It puts great pressure and increased wear on the oil pump >> driveshaft gear and the? camshaft great. This back pressure also >> results in the camshaft being driven forward more forcefully into the >> camshaft thrust plate. It also stretches the timing chain. >> >> As this problem became apparent, Austin modified the camshaft thrust >> plate with the addition of a circular oil groove.? When that was not >> sufficient they changed the thrust plate to a bronze type of material >> with a circular oil groove. Eventually they replaced the rotor style >> pump with the gear style. >> >> I the photo I have attached, the plate on the left is the stock steel >> thrust plate. The middle plate is a late 100/6 bronze style thrust >> plate.? The thrust plate on the right is the result of using a Denis >> Welch 100/6 "high volume" oil pump. The cam has ground itself into >> that thrust plate about 1/8th inch.?? Look closely at the oil pump >> driveshaft in the photo and you will see that the gears have been >> sheared off. The gears on a very expensive Denis Welsh camshaft are >> also sheared off. >> >> Calling a 100/6 oil pump a "high volume" pump is like calling a >> prostitute a "social worker". They both do the job but the >> consequences can be tragic. >> >> My advice:? Do not use a 100/6 oil pump.? The gear style pumps are >> more than adequate.? And, don't believe everything you read in the >> Denis Welch catalogue. >> >> If you insist on using the 100/6 oil pump then you should get the >> Torrington bearing camshaft thrust plate from Denis Welch as well. >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net > From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com Tue Dec 31 10:28:15 2019 From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 17:28:15 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: <4029554c-381a-31e6-ac8b-2bfecdb22251@comcast.net> References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net>, <4029554c-381a-31e6-ac8b-2bfecdb22251@comcast.net> Message-ID: Sports and Classics still there in Stamford,ct I get eMails from the every week or so. They have a lot of old New OEM parts. Regards, Richard C > On Dec 30, 2019, at 22:48, Bob Spidell wrote: > > ?Correction: Sintering does not actually melt the metal--in this case iron--but uses heat and compression to form shapes. > >> On 12/30/2019 7:58 PM, Bob Spidell wrote: >> [If this is a double-post please disregard, my mail server is acting weird] >> >> Well, this is distressing. Using the Torrington thrust bearing would spare the thrust plate, but you'd still get the wear on the gears and stretched timing chain, no? Given this, and the alleged problems with their 'constant clearance worm' steering box I'm beginning to wonder what's up with DWM/R. They race, they have fancy new CNC machines and appear to be profitable; why would they be offering (possibly) defective parts (and advice)? >> >> My dad and I rebuilt my BJ8's engine at about 80K miles; I bought most of the parts from Sports&Classics in CT--they still around?--and I bought whatever pump they were selling. I always assumed since it was for a BJ8 it was the gear type, but when I rebuilt the engine again a couple years ago I disassembled the pump; it was the vane type! I had some wear on the pump driveshaft, but it held up for 120K miles, and I'll likely not put more than a few thousand on the new engine/pump in my remaining years. I'm also re-thinking my use of 20W-50 oil (but I have 3 dozen qts. so ...). >> >> I know of a problem with aircraft engine oil pumps with 'sintered' gears; I believe this is a method of producing the gears by basically melting iron powder in a mold, anybody know if the gear-type Healey pumps use sintered gears? >> >>> On 12/30/2019 5:47 PM, richard mayor wrote: >>> >>> >>> 100/6 rotor style oil pumps were an engineering disaster. While the design itself is OK, the large physical size of the rotors in the pump creates a lot of resistance and stress in other engine components. It puts great pressure and increased wear on the oil pump driveshaft gear and the camshaft great. This back pressure also results in the camshaft being driven forward more forcefully into the camshaft thrust plate. It also stretches the timing chain. >>> >>> As this problem became apparent, Austin modified the camshaft thrust plate with the addition of a circular oil groove. When that was not sufficient they changed the thrust plate to a bronze type of material with a circular oil groove. Eventually they replaced the rotor style pump with the gear style. >>> >>> I the photo I have attached, the plate on the left is the stock steel thrust plate. The middle plate is a late 100/6 bronze style thrust plate. The thrust plate on the right is the result of using a Denis Welch 100/6 "high volume" oil pump. The cam has ground itself into that thrust plate about 1/8th inch. Look closely at the oil pump driveshaft in the photo and you will see that the gears have been sheared off. The gears on a very expensive Denis Welsh camshaft are also sheared off. >>> >>> Calling a 100/6 oil pump a "high volume" pump is like calling a prostitute a "social worker". They both do the job but the consequences can be tragic. >>> >>> My advice: Do not use a 100/6 oil pump. The gear style pumps are more than adequate. And, don't believe everything you read in the Denis Welch catalogue. >>> >>> If you insist on using the 100/6 oil pump then you should get the Torrington bearing camshaft thrust plate from Denis Welch as well. >>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Healeys at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net >> > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com > From waschu2 at gmail.com Tue Dec 31 11:31:18 2019 From: waschu2 at gmail.com (Wayne Schultz) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 13:31:18 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround Message-ID: Mt friend Bob wrapped his trim in leather and it looks great. Wayne -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100 trim.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1062022 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100 trim2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 1117199 bytes Desc: not available URL: From boyracer466 at gmail.com Tue Dec 31 12:25:07 2019 From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 11:25:07 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 door fit Message-ID: I've spent a lot of time on trying to get a drivers door aligned. I have it to where everything is good except the lower rear corner of the door still sticks out. Two questions: Did the factory workers swap out doors to get a better fit? More importantly - Did the factory workers twist the doors to make them fit? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Dec 31 13:52:37 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 15:52:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 door fit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard To the best of todays understanding the answer is yes and yes. I place a piece of 2x4 lumber in the area that needs ?adjusted? and give a good push with my hand on the door edge. Amazing how the structural aspect of a seemingly solid panel will yield to the gentle hand of the body man. ? I have attached a photo of a 100 bonnet that shows how to get a little more curvature , fore and aft, on the outer skin without panel beating the skin. Notice the two small dents in the inner support. Happy New Year Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: richard mayor Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2019 2:25 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 door fit I've spent a lot of time on trying to get a drivers door aligned. I have it to where everything is good except the lower rear corner of the door still sticks out. Two questions:? Did the factory workers swap out doors to get a better fit??? More importantly - Did the factory workers twist the doors to make them fit? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100 black bonnet dents.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 299743 bytes Desc: not available URL: From healeyguy at aol.com Tue Dec 31 13:52:37 2019 From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 15:52:37 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 door fit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Richard To the best of todays understanding the answer is yes and yes. I place a piece of 2x4 lumber in the area that needs ?adjusted? and give a good push with my hand on the door edge. Amazing how the structural aspect of a seemingly solid panel will yield to the gentle hand of the body man. ? I have attached a photo of a 100 bonnet that shows how to get a little more curvature , fore and aft, on the outer skin without panel beating the skin. Notice the two small dents in the inner support. Happy New Year Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: richard mayor Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2019 2:25 PM To: healeys Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 door fit I've spent a lot of time on trying to get a drivers door aligned. I have it to where everything is good except the lower rear corner of the door still sticks out. Two questions:? Did the factory workers swap out doors to get a better fit??? More importantly - Did the factory workers twist the doors to make them fit? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 100 black bonnet dents.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 299743 bytes Desc: not available URL: From rrengineer.mike at att.net Tue Dec 31 14:11:10 2019 From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 21:11:10 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <340866773.5408206.1577826670357@mail.yahoo.com> So, if your seats are vinyl, then you can wrap it in vinyl?? The cockpit surround piece over the dash in my Bugeye is wrapped with vinyl material same as the set cover.? Looks great and is what was done on all Bugeyes.? The other pieces were Brite Dip anodized at Ano-Brite in North Hollywood along with the windscreen frame.? They specialize in British car anodizing.? That was back in 2000.? The three cockpit surround pieces plus the windscreen frame cost me $125 back then.? Four years ago I had the four pieces of cockpit surround for my BN2 estimated by Ano-Brite at $500!? The increased regulations by California trying to save us from ourselves has driven the mom and pop chrome platers and anodizers out of business and increased the cost of equipment and regulations for the surviving larger businesses.? Of course the increase in cost is passed on to the customer.? One reason I send my chrome plating to Canada. On Tuesday, December 31, 2019, 10:46:12 AM PST, Wayne Schultz wrote: Mt friend Bob wrapped?his trim in leather and it looks great.? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Wayne_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation? $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: thumbnail 1a.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 165269 bytes Desc: not available URL: From ynotink at msn.com Tue Dec 31 15:19:09 2019 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 22:19:09 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: <340866773.5408206.1577826670357@mail.yahoo.com> References: , <340866773.5408206.1577826670357@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Even if your car has a "leather" interior that only applies to the seat facings. All other soft trim on the cars was in matching vinyl (or as it was called leather cloth). I presume vinyl would have been the material used when an interior matching surround was specified. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2019 9:11 PM To: Wayne Schultz ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround So, if your seats are vinyl, then you can wrap it in vinyl? The cockpit surround piece over the dash in my Bugeye is wrapped with vinyl material same as the set cover. Looks great and is what was done on all Bugeyes. The other pieces were Brite Dip anodized at Ano-Brite in North Hollywood along with the windscreen frame. They specialize in British car anodizing. That was back in 2000. The three cockpit surround pieces plus the windscreen frame cost me $125 back then. Four years ago I had the four pieces of cockpit surround for my BN2 estimated by Ano-Brite at $500! The increased regulations by California trying to save us from ourselves has driven the mom and pop chrome platers and anodizers out of business and increased the cost of equipment and regulations for the surviving larger businesses. Of course the increase in cost is passed on to the customer. One reason I send my chrome plating to Canada. On Tuesday, December 31, 2019, 10:46:12 AM PST, Wayne Schultz wrote: Mt friend Bob wrapped his trim in leather and it looks great. Wayne _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahmg at aol.com Tue Dec 31 15:30:53 2019 From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 17:30:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <62C82B85-9B74-4439-A621-9D227B701BCC@aol.com> If my memory serves me I think the surround covering was leather as an option not vinyl. Also you could have your dash leather as well and the two were typically done together. Ken Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 31, 2019, at 5:19 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > ? > Even if your car has a "leather" interior that only applies to the seat facings. All other soft trim on the cars was in matching vinyl (or as it was called leather cloth). I presume vinyl would have been the material used when an interior matching surround was specified. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean > Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2019 9:11 PM > To: Wayne Schultz ; Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround > > So, if your seats are vinyl, then you can wrap it in vinyl? The cockpit surround piece over the dash in my Bugeye is wrapped with vinyl material same as the set cover. Looks great and is what was done on all Bugeyes. The other pieces were Brite Dip anodized at Ano-Brite in North Hollywood along with the windscreen frame. They specialize in British car anodizing. That was back in 2000. The three cockpit surround pieces plus the windscreen frame cost me $125 back then. Four years ago I had the four pieces of cockpit surround for my BN2 estimated by Ano-Brite at $500! The increased regulations by California trying to save us from ourselves has driven the mom and pop chrome platers and anodizers out of business and increased the cost of equipment and regulations for the surviving larger businesses. Of course the increase in cost is passed on to the customer. One reason I send my chrome plating to Canada. > > On Tuesday, December 31, 2019, 10:46:12 AM PST, Wayne Schultz wrote: > > > Mt friend Bob wrapped his trim in leather and it looks great. > > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ahmg at aol.com Tue Dec 31 15:30:53 2019 From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 17:30:53 -0500 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <62C82B85-9B74-4439-A621-9D227B701BCC@aol.com> If my memory serves me I think the surround covering was leather as an option not vinyl. Also you could have your dash leather as well and the two were typically done together. Ken Sent from my iPhone > On Dec 31, 2019, at 5:19 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: > > ? > Even if your car has a "leather" interior that only applies to the seat facings. All other soft trim on the cars was in matching vinyl (or as it was called leather cloth). I presume vinyl would have been the material used when an interior matching surround was specified. > > Bill Lawrence > BN1 #554 > From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean > Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2019 9:11 PM > To: Wayne Schultz ; Healeys > Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround > > So, if your seats are vinyl, then you can wrap it in vinyl? The cockpit surround piece over the dash in my Bugeye is wrapped with vinyl material same as the set cover. Looks great and is what was done on all Bugeyes. The other pieces were Brite Dip anodized at Ano-Brite in North Hollywood along with the windscreen frame. They specialize in British car anodizing. That was back in 2000. The three cockpit surround pieces plus the windscreen frame cost me $125 back then. Four years ago I had the four pieces of cockpit surround for my BN2 estimated by Ano-Brite at $500! The increased regulations by California trying to save us from ourselves has driven the mom and pop chrome platers and anodizers out of business and increased the cost of equipment and regulations for the surviving larger businesses. Of course the increase in cost is passed on to the customer. One reason I send my chrome plating to Canada. > > On Tuesday, December 31, 2019, 10:46:12 AM PST, Wayne Schultz wrote: > > > Mt friend Bob wrapped his trim in leather and it looks great. > > Wayne > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From ynotink at msn.com Tue Dec 31 15:55:21 2019 From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 22:55:21 +0000 Subject: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround In-Reply-To: <62C82B85-9B74-4439-A621-9D227B701BCC@aol.com> References: , <62C82B85-9B74-4439-A621-9D227B701BCC@aol.com> Message-ID: I suppose that's possible as they were a special order item. Maybe there wasn't as much of a cost differential at the time as there is now between the two materials or maybe the leather was easier to work with or something. I would think that the vinyl would have been preferred because of its resistance to moisture, but maybe that wasn't a consideration either. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Ken Fleming Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2019 10:30 PM To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE Cc: Michael MacLean ; Wayne Schultz ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround If my memory serves me I think the surround covering was leather as an option not vinyl. Also you could have your dash leather as well and the two were typically done together. Ken Sent from my iPhone On Dec 31, 2019, at 5:19 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE wrote: ? Even if your car has a "leather" interior that only applies to the seat facings. All other soft trim on the cars was in matching vinyl (or as it was called leather cloth). I presume vinyl would have been the material used when an interior matching surround was specified. Bill Lawrence BN1 #554 ________________________________ From: Healeys on behalf of Michael MacLean Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2019 9:11 PM To: Wayne Schultz ; Healeys Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100/4 Cockpit Surround So, if your seats are vinyl, then you can wrap it in vinyl? The cockpit surround piece over the dash in my Bugeye is wrapped with vinyl material same as the set cover. Looks great and is what was done on all Bugeyes. The other pieces were Brite Dip anodized at Ano-Brite in North Hollywood along with the windscreen frame. They specialize in British car anodizing. That was back in 2000. The three cockpit surround pieces plus the windscreen frame cost me $125 back then. Four years ago I had the four pieces of cockpit surround for my BN2 estimated by Ano-Brite at $500! The increased regulations by California trying to save us from ourselves has driven the mom and pop chrome platers and anodizers out of business and increased the cost of equipment and regulations for the surviving larger businesses. Of course the increase in cost is passed on to the customer. One reason I send my chrome plating to Canada. On Tuesday, December 31, 2019, 10:46:12 AM PST, Wayne Schultz wrote: Mt friend Bob wrapped his trim in leather and it looks great. Wayne _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahmg at aol.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From coudesluijs at chello.nl Tue Dec 31 16:39:02 2019 From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 00:39:02 +0100 Subject: [Healeys] 2020 Message-ID: A very prosperous and healthy 2020 to you all. Kees Oudesluijs From bspidell at comcast.net Tue Dec 31 17:18:29 2019 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 16:18:29 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 door fit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: When my dad was a factory rep for Ford based at the old Milpitis assembly plant--where they built Mustangs--he said they took the biggest, strongest guy on the assembly line, gave him a 2x4 and told him to make the doors line up.? It's a fair bet BMC did something similar. On 12/31/2019 11:25 AM, richard mayor wrote: > I've spent a lot of time on trying to get a drivers door aligned. I > have it to where everything is good except the lower rear corner of > the door still sticks out. > Two questions:? Did the factory workers swap out doors to get a better > fit??? More importantly - Did the factory workers twist the doors to > make them fit? From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Dec 31 18:03:53 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 17:03:53 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] 2020 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: To you and all on the list Ira Erbs Portland,OR 1959 Austin Healey BN4 1967 MGB On Tue, Dec 31, 2019, 3:39 PM Kees Oudesluijs wrote: > A very prosperous and healthy 2020 to you all. > > > Kees Oudesluijs > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Tue Dec 31 20:39:39 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 2019 19:39:39 -0800 Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 door fit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This should reduce any doubts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hEx-wgrdAw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mIAYxWCXF8A Cheers and happy new years everyone Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Tue, Dec 31, 2019 at 4:41 PM Bob Spidell wrote: > When my dad was a factory rep for Ford based at the old Milpitis > assembly plant--where they built Mustangs--he said they took the > biggest, strongest guy on the assembly line, gave him a 2x4 and told him > to make the doors line up. It's a fair bet BMC did something similar. > > > On 12/31/2019 11:25 AM, richard mayor wrote: > > I've spent a lot of time on trying to get a drivers door aligned. I > > have it to where everything is good except the lower rear corner of > > the door still sticks out. > > Two questions: Did the factory workers swap out doors to get a better > > fit? More importantly - Did the factory workers twist the doors to > > make them fit? > > _______________________________________________ > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Healeys at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From varley at cosmos.net.au Tue Dec 31 22:03:23 2019 From: varley at cosmos.net.au (Larry Varley) Date: Wed, 1 Jan 2020 16:03:23 +1100 Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pumps In-Reply-To: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> References: <964ba385-df70-a261-0129-63f4df053a8e@comcast.net> Message-ID: <768eabb0-d8c1-c553-90e5-a924fe4277dc@cosmos.net.au> As a matter of interest the rotary oil pump is from the Austin A70 2.2 litre engine, same rotor. Then when the 2.6 litre engine was produced for the Healey 100 Austin changed the pumps to the gear type. Probably because the gear type pumps less oil and they knew the cars would be revved harder. In an A70 and 100 engine the rotary pump will produce up to 80 PSI oil pressure and around 3000 engine revs, where the gear pump will produce about 60 PSI with the same bypass spring. This shows the rotary pump has a far greater output. Austin may have changed the pump running speed when they fitted the rotary pump to the six cylinder cars, I don't know. Austin A70's have no problem with 80 PSI oil pressure, but then we all know the 6 cylinder engine was an inferior design?? :)) Cheers Larry Varley