From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Fri Nov  1 09:33:07 2019
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2019 15:33:07 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
Message-ID: <8d3ed312-4cce-4e85-95e1-570c27262304@me.com>

So to let everyone know, the fan was indeed pushing air through the radiator core, quite nicely I might add. My actual running temperature did improve by a couple of degrees but running temperature wasn't really problem. My problem was when I would get stuck in traffic and my temp went above 190 degrees. Once there, my car would cough and choke, like a vapor lock.
???Turns out with the old style heat shield over the exhaust, the front float bowl is exposed and fuel would boil in that float bowl. Solved the problem by installing a bilge fan, (and yes you have to check air flow in those also), had a switch on the dash and when the temp got close to 190, I'd flip the switch, cold air would flow around the float bowl and the car continued to run smooth as silk. Problem solved.
???To add to the discussion though, many years later I did switch to an aluminum radiator, stainless steel fan and kept the bilge fan as it would still get hot when stuck in traffic. The bilge fan was the best mod I ever made to the car. And in that car I discovered the temp gauge needle does not stop when it gets to the 230 mark, it will continue up and into the oil pressure side! Another story, another time, let's just say it was over 120 degrees air temp where I was driving the car! But it got me home and showed no signs of harm.
???But this was the end of the road for me driving #598:


???

On October 31, 2019 at 9:48 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:


Shoukd have checked if it was pushing or sucking. Needed to be be a pusher if on that side of the radiator. Used one attached to my X brace on my BN4 for years in LA. Blew air thru the rad to cool down in summer stop and go traffic.? Removed it when I moved to Portland 26 years ago. Need one now as we hit the 90s in June now, ih stead of two weeks in late Aug. Reinstalling a new fan this winter.


Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone


On Thu, Oct 31, 2019, 9:09 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I have what looks like the same size fan similarly mounted directly to the front side of the cross-braces on my 100, though with screws.
It definitely works in challenging situations such as when stuck in traffic, etc.? I chose not use a thermostatically controlled switch and turn it on before temps start?to rise in order to get a jump on things.


Best--Michael Oritt






On Thu, Oct 31, 2019 at 1:57 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Patrick,
???Here are a couple of shots of my car back in 2007 when I installed an electric fan to help with cooling. As you can see, it was quite easy as nothing was in the way! The fan didn't help though and I found another solution to that problem, but like I said, lots of room in there!
Steven


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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Fri Nov  1 10:34:35 2019
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2019 16:34:35 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
Message-ID: <adb464eb-1a5f-4384-952f-48f53da8d706@me.com>

My new ride isn't quite sorted out just yet, but it will be. Right now, I'm sorting out a new place to live and once that's under control, the work will commence on the new ride. Updates to follow.
S

On November 1, 2019 at 8:46 AM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:


Your car ended up getting quite a bit hotter:(
Hope you have sorted out your new ride.


Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone


On Fri, Nov 1, 2019, 8:33 AM Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at icloud.com> wrote:

So to let everyone know, the fan was indeed pushing air through the radiator core, quite nicely I might add. My actual running temperature did improve by a couple of degrees but running temperature wasn't really problem. My problem was when I would get stuck in traffic and my temp went above 190 degrees. Once there, my car would cough and choke, like a vapor lock.
???Turns out with the old style heat shield over the exhaust, the front float bowl is exposed and fuel would boil in that float bowl. Solved the problem by installing a bilge fan, (and yes you have to check air flow in those also), had a switch on the dash and when the temp got close to 190, I'd flip the switch, cold air would flow around the float bowl and the car continued to run smooth as silk. Problem solved.
???To add to the discussion though, many years later I did switch to an aluminum radiator, stainless steel fan and kept the bilge fan as it would still get hot when stuck in traffic. The bilge fan was the best mod I ever made to the car. And in that car I discovered the temp gauge needle does not stop when it gets to the 230 mark, it will continue up and into the oil pressure side! Another story, another time, let's just say it was over 120 degrees air temp where I was driving the car! But it got me home and showed no signs of harm.
???But this was the end of the road for me driving #598:


???

On October 31, 2019 at 9:48 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:


Shoukd have checked if it was pushing or sucking. Needed to be be a pusher if on that side of the radiator. Used one attached to my X brace on my BN4 for years in LA. Blew air thru the rad to cool down in summer stop and go traffic.? Removed it when I moved to Portland 26 years ago. Need one now as we hit the 90s in June now, ih stead of two weeks in late Aug. Reinstalling a new fan this winter.


Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone


On Thu, Oct 31, 2019, 9:09 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I have what looks like the same size fan similarly mounted directly to the front side of the cross-braces on my 100, though with screws.
It definitely works in challenging situations such as when stuck in traffic, etc.? I chose not use a thermostatically controlled switch and turn it on before temps start?to rise in order to get a jump on things.


Best--Michael Oritt






On Thu, Oct 31, 2019 at 1:57 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Patrick,
???Here are a couple of shots of my car back in 2007 when I installed an electric fan to help with cooling. As you can see, it was quite easy as nothing was in the way! The fan didn't help though and I found another solution to that problem, but like I said, lots of room in there!
Steven






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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Nov  1 21:49:15 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:49:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
In-Reply-To: <8d3ed312-4cce-4e85-95e1-570c27262304@me.com>
References: <8d3ed312-4cce-4e85-95e1-570c27262304@me.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB34322CE9F5CF6E0C21E17D62A57D0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Steven,

A sad end to a great car. I'm happy you were able to replace it.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 1, 2019 3:33 PM
To: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued

So to let everyone know, the fan was indeed pushing air through the radiator core, quite nicely I might add. My actual running temperature did improve by a couple of degrees but running temperature wasn't really problem. My problem was when I would get stuck in traffic and my temp went above 190 degrees. Once there, my car would cough and choke, like a vapor lock.
   Turns out with the old style heat shield over the exhaust, the front float bowl is exposed and fuel would boil in that float bowl. Solved the problem by installing a bilge fan, (and yes you have to check air flow in those also), had a switch on the dash and when the temp got close to 190, I'd flip the switch, cold air would flow around the float bowl and the car continued to run smooth as silk. Problem solved.
   To add to the discussion though, many years later I did switch to an aluminum radiator, stainless steel fan and kept the bilge fan as it would still get hot when stuck in traffic. The bilge fan was the best mod I ever made to the car. And in that car I discovered the temp gauge needle does not stop when it gets to the 230 mark, it will continue up and into the oil pressure side! Another story, another time, let's just say it was over 120 degrees air temp where I was driving the car! But it got me home and showed no signs of harm.
   But this was the end of the road for me driving #598:

[IMG_0365.JPG]


On October 31, 2019 at 9:48 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

Shoukd have checked if it was pushing or sucking. Needed to be be a pusher if on that side of the radiator. Used one attached to my X brace on my BN4 for years in LA. Blew air thru the rad to cool down in summer stop and go traffic.  Removed it when I moved to Portland 26 years ago. Need one now as we hit the 90s in June now, ih stead of two weeks in late Aug. Reinstalling a new fan this winter.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Thu, Oct 31, 2019, 9:09 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com<mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com>> wrote:
I have what looks like the same size fan similarly mounted directly to the front side of the cross-braces on my 100, though with screws.
It definitely works in challenging situations such as when stuck in traffic, etc.  I chose not use a thermostatically controlled switch and turn it on before temps start to rise in order to get a jump on things.

Best--Michael Oritt



On Thu, Oct 31, 2019 at 1:57 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Patrick,
   Here are a couple of shots of my car back in 2007 when I installed an electric fan to help with cooling. As you can see, it was quite easy as nothing was in the way! The fan didn't help though and I found another solution to that problem, but like I said, lots of room in there!
Steven

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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Nov  1 22:34:12 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 04:34:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
In-Reply-To: <13bd32b7-6f13-48d7-82d6-fa1e3cd58b97@email.android.com>
References: <ff26349b-883b-4bc4-be13-31ebb361f54c@me.com>,
 <13bd32b7-6f13-48d7-82d6-fa1e3cd58b97@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB3432D4B5A9FF7E221EF125FAA57D0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

The problem is that the fan needs to be able to build a pressure head in order for the air to be forced through the radiator. As with any fluid flow the bulk of the fluid (air in this case) will go where the resistance is lower, which means anywhere except through the radiator core. Placing the fan against the core and sealing the edges in some way allows the fan to build enough head to force the bulk of the air through the core.

I modified the cross braces on my car by cutting them loose from the upper bracket (two were already broken loose), bending them slightly forward from their bases and welding a sheetmetal angle to the upper brace to which I then re-weld the upper ends of the cross braces. This gave me an extra inch or so of clearance to allow the fans to be mounted to the front of the radiator. I used foam weatherstrips to seal the outer edges of the fan shrouds to the radiator core. The fans mounted side by side are wider than the radiator core so I fabricated blanking plates from alloy sheet and mounted them to the overlapping fan shrouds outboard of the core so that the fans can only blow through and not around the core.

I thought that I had taken some pictures during the process, but I haven't been able to find them. I'm going to have to remove the grille to get any kind of pictures, but I'll try to do that tomorrow.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 1, 2019 12:31 AM
To: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at icloud.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued

I bolted mine right to the rad.

Larry Paterson
BN7 , 100M

On Oct. 31, 2019 5:07 p.m., Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
What? The fan was less than an inch (2.54 centimeters) away from the radiator core, can't get much closer than that and like I said, I solved the problem I had another way.  How close should you mount a fan to not let air escape?
S

On October 31, 2019 at 1:24 PM, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:


This fan cannot work properly because it is to far away from the core and air escapes from the space between fan and core.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 31-10-2019 om 18:17 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:
Patrick,
   Here are a couple of shots of my car back in 2007 when I installed an electric fan to help with cooling. As you can see, it was quite easy as nothing was in the way! The fan didn't help though and I found another solution to that problem, but like I said, lots of room in there!
Steven

[IMG_0453.JPG]



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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Fri Nov  1 23:18:29 2019
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Sat, 02 Nov 2019 05:18:29 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
Message-ID: <ace7b292-b3fd-4fc3-83d9-9df6e23b44fe@me.com>

Thanks, me too!



On November 1, 2019 at 8:49 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:


Steven,


A sad end to a great car. I'm happy you were able to replace it.


Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554


From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 1, 2019 3:33 PM
To: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
?
So to let everyone know, the fan was indeed pushing air through the radiator core, quite nicely I might add. My actual running temperature did improve by a couple of degrees but running temperature wasn't really problem. My problem was when I would get stuck in traffic and my temp went above 190 degrees. Once there, my car would cough and choke, like a vapor lock.
???Turns out with the old style heat shield over the exhaust, the front float bowl is exposed and fuel would boil in that float bowl. Solved the problem by installing a bilge fan, (and yes you have to check air flow in those also), had a switch on the dash and when the temp got close to 190, I'd flip the switch, cold air would flow around the float bowl and the car continued to run smooth as silk. Problem solved.
???To add to the discussion though, many years later I did switch to an aluminum radiator, stainless steel fan and kept the bilge fan as it would still get hot when stuck in traffic. The bilge fan was the best mod I ever made to the car. And in that car I discovered the temp gauge needle does not stop when it gets to the 230 mark, it will continue up and into the oil pressure side! Another story, another time, let's just say it was over 120 degrees air temp where I was driving the car! But it got me home and showed no signs of harm.
???But this was the end of the road for me driving #598:


???

On October 31, 2019 at 9:48 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:


Shoukd have checked if it was pushing or sucking. Needed to be be a pusher if on that side of the radiator. Used one attached to my X brace on my BN4 for years in LA. Blew air thru the rad to cool down in summer stop and go traffic.? Removed it when I moved to Portland 26 years ago. Need one now as we hit the 90s in June now, ih stead of two weeks in late Aug. Reinstalling a new fan this winter.


Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone


On Thu, Oct 31, 2019, 9:09 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I have what looks like the same size fan similarly mounted directly to the front side of the cross-braces on my 100, though with screws.
It definitely works in challenging situations such as when stuck in traffic, etc.? I chose not use a thermostatically controlled switch and turn it on before temps start?to rise in order to get a jump on things.


Best--Michael Oritt






On Thu, Oct 31, 2019 at 1:57 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Patrick,
???Here are a couple of shots of my car back in 2007 when I installed an electric fan to help with cooling. As you can see, it was quite easy as nothing was in the way! The fan didn't help though and I found another solution to that problem, but like I said, lots of room in there!
Steven






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From ronfineesq at earthlink.net  Sat Nov  2 11:09:31 2019
From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 10:09:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ceramic coatings
Message-ID: <D1739B8B57F248E7AD2E9992CEECA59A@Inspiron660>

I would like to get opinions from the list about the Ceramic Spray Coatings or waxes that are showing up in the auto parts stores. Mothers, Meguiars, are some of the brands I have seen.

Have you tried them, do they provide any better protection than other products?

Thanks,

Ron Fine
61BN7
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From schottc at knology.net  Sat Nov  2 16:08:51 2019
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 18:08:51 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Alfin Brake Drum
In-Reply-To: <D1739B8B57F248E7AD2E9992CEECA59A@Inspiron660>
References: <D1739B8B57F248E7AD2E9992CEECA59A@Inspiron660>
Message-ID: <1415114004.3599081.1572732531204.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

I have one (1) new Alfin brake drum for sale that will fit the front of all BN1s and the rear of an early BN1. If anyone is interested in it, please contact me by email or phone. 

Regards, 

Charlie Schott 
Phone: 586-665-4740 
schottc at knology.net 


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From deejay2650 at gmail.com  Sat Nov  2 20:57:16 2019
From: deejay2650 at gmail.com (Deejay2650 .)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 13:57:16 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
Message-ID: <CAH2i9kv2kS6JfsFgh97PJ-JQvZRQ6d4R3XNDksA1Tz=hxTbj1Q@mail.gmail.com>

G'day All,
Reading the various threads of late, I read about a temperature gauge
reading almost into the oil gauge....I had this problem with my BJ8 when
using a so called waterless coolant....which in fact is endothermic (which
means it absorbs heat...not dissipates it) and on heat soak after switch
off  the following pics tell the story...
I fixed the problem by draining and flushing all the waterless coolant out
and refilling with demineralised water and adding Penrite Classic Coolant
additive.
Problem solved...no more overheating!!
Happy Healeying,
Darryl Ross
Wagga Wagga NSW Australia
'67 BJ8
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat Nov  2 22:36:33 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 21:36:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Remote reservoir cap
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_aK5rY17_+t5+EeFR6Bw3W2E8uT2fiQk2ZVrcyLW6=RQ@mail.gmail.com>

Looking for a cap for the clutch/ brake reservior for my bn4. I want to put
an air fitting in it to pressurize my system to help bleed the brakes.
Cost plus shipping to 97219
Portland, Oregon

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Nov  2 23:02:37 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 22:02:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Remote reservoir cap
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_aK5rY17_+t5+EeFR6Bw3W2E8uT2fiQk2ZVrcyLW6=RQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_aK5rY17_+t5+EeFR6Bw3W2E8uT2fiQk2ZVrcyLW6=RQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <72352b13-5978-e7f4-7caf-3bfe713ffe9d@comcast.net>

Don't the 'usual suspects' stock these?*

I did this years ago; never have a problem getting good pedal.

Bob

* You're in Portland; maybe Tom has one?


On 11/2/2019 9:36 PM, i erbs wrote:
> Looking for a cap for the clutch/ brake reservior for my bn4. I want 
> to put an air fitting in it to pressurize my system to help bleed the 
> brakes.
> Cost plus shipping to 97219
> Portland, Oregon
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Nov  2 23:12:54 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 22:12:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
In-Reply-To: <CAH2i9kv2kS6JfsFgh97PJ-JQvZRQ6d4R3XNDksA1Tz=hxTbj1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAH2i9kv2kS6JfsFgh97PJ-JQvZRQ6d4R3XNDksA1Tz=hxTbj1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a59c94ee-8b99-780f-6fc0-a091da4bb5ee@comcast.net>

Yikes!? You must have a greater-than-7psi radiator cap.

On 11/2/2019 7:57 PM, Deejay2650 . wrote:
> G'day All,
> Reading the various threads of late, I read about a temperature gauge 
> reading almost into the oil gauge....I had this problem with my BJ8 
> when using a so called waterless coolant....which in fact is 
> endothermic (which means it absorbs heat...not dissipates it) and on 
> heat soak after switch off? the following pics tell the story...
> I fixed the problem by draining and flushing all the waterless coolant 
> out and refilling with demineralised water and adding Penrite Classic 
> Coolant additive.
> Problem solved...no more overheating!!
> Happy Healeying,
> Darryl Ross
> Wagga Wagga NSW Australia
> '67 BJ8
>


From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sat Nov  2 23:17:44 2019
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 22:17:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
In-Reply-To: <CAH2i9kv2kS6JfsFgh97PJ-JQvZRQ6d4R3XNDksA1Tz=hxTbj1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAH2i9kv2kS6JfsFgh97PJ-JQvZRQ6d4R3XNDksA1Tz=hxTbj1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000a01d59206$06ad08c0$14071a40$@sbcglobal.net>

I think that is natural for a Healey. The temp gauge in my Healey always pegs out in the summer. It quickly gets back to 180-190 once I start it up.

 

John

?62 BT7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Deejay2650 .
Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 7:57 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued

 

G'day All,

Reading the various threads of late, I read about a temperature gauge reading almost into the oil gauge...I had this problem with my BJ8 when using a so called waterless coolant...which in fact is endothermic (which means it absorbs heat...not dissipates it) and on heat soak after switch off  the following pics tell the story...

I fixed the problem by draining and flushing all the waterless coolant out and refilling with demineralised water and adding Penrite Classic Coolant additive.

Problem solved...no more overheating!!

Happy Healeying,

Darryl Ross

Wagga Wagga NSW Australia

'67 BJ8

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Nov  2 23:24:05 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 22:24:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
In-Reply-To: <000a01d59206$06ad08c0$14071a40$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CAH2i9kv2kS6JfsFgh97PJ-JQvZRQ6d4R3XNDksA1Tz=hxTbj1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <000a01d59206$06ad08c0$14071a40$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <c1adb3fd-8e5e-7f35-5e66-bdb01554cbe6@comcast.net>

Mine never go over 212degF.? Another seven degrees or so and you got a 
boilover with std. 7psi cap (if I remember my science correctly).

On 11/2/2019 10:17 PM, John Spaur wrote:
>
> I think that is natural for a Healey. The temp gauge in my Healey 
> always pegs out in the summer. It quickly gets back to 180-190 once I 
> start it up.
>
> John
>
> ?62 BT7
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Deejay2650 .
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 2, 2019 7:57 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
>
> G'day All,
>
> Reading the various threads of late, I read about a temperature gauge 
> reading almost into the oil gauge...I had this problem with my BJ8 
> when using a so called waterless coolant...which in fact is 
> endothermic (which means it absorbs heat...not dissipates it) and on 
> heat soak after switch off? the following pics tell the story...
>
> I fixed the problem by draining and flushing all the waterless coolant 
> out and refilling with demineralised water and adding Penrite Classic 
> Coolant additive.
>
> Problem solved...no more overheating!!
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Darryl Ross
>
> Wagga Wagga NSW Australia
>
> '67 BJ8
>
>

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Nov  3 00:08:57 2019
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sat, 2 Nov 2019 23:08:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
In-Reply-To: <c1adb3fd-8e5e-7f35-5e66-bdb01554cbe6@comcast.net>
References: <CAH2i9kv2kS6JfsFgh97PJ-JQvZRQ6d4R3XNDksA1Tz=hxTbj1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <000a01d59206$06ad08c0$14071a40$@sbcglobal.net>
 <c1adb3fd-8e5e-7f35-5e66-bdb01554cbe6@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000001d5920d$2e398790$8aac96b0$@sbcglobal.net>

On my Healey, it only occurs when parked after going for a drive on a hot summer day. While driving, the coolant temp is about 190 degrees. Yes, when parked, there is expansion as you state; it will not boil over if the radiator is not overfilled.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 10:24 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued

 

Mine never go over 212degF.  Another seven degrees or so and you got a boilover with std. 7psi cap (if I remember my science correctly).

On 11/2/2019 10:17 PM, John Spaur wrote:

I think that is natural for a Healey. The temp gauge in my Healey always pegs out in the summer. It quickly gets back to 180-190 once I start it up.

 

John

?62 BT7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Deejay2650 .
Sent: Saturday, November 2, 2019 7:57 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued

 

G'day All,

Reading the various threads of late, I read about a temperature gauge reading almost into the oil gauge...I had this problem with my BJ8 when using a so called waterless coolant...which in fact is endothermic (which means it absorbs heat...not dissipates it) and on heat soak after switch off  the following pics tell the story...

I fixed the problem by draining and flushing all the waterless coolant out and refilling with demineralised water and adding Penrite Classic Coolant additive.

Problem solved...no more overheating!!

Happy Healeying,

Darryl Ross

Wagga Wagga NSW Australia

'67 BJ8

 

 

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Nov  3 01:05:17 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 00:05:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
In-Reply-To: <000a01d59206$06ad08c0$14071a40$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CAH2i9kv2kS6JfsFgh97PJ-JQvZRQ6d4R3XNDksA1Tz=hxTbj1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <000a01d59206$06ad08c0$14071a40$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89G-8zxpTJjS_cVTCVVBE19LvtEV8Z6htTRP2axuSn5MA@mail.gmail.com>

Has happend to mine as well
 Still freaks me out

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Sat, Nov 2, 2019, 10:18 PM John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> I think that is natural for a Healey. The temp gauge in my Healey always
> pegs out in the summer. It quickly gets back to 180-190 once I start it up.
>
>
>
> John
>
> ?62 BT7
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Deejay2650
> .
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 2, 2019 7:57 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
>
>
>
> G'day All,
>
> Reading the various threads of late, I read about a temperature gauge
> reading almost into the oil gauge...I had this problem with my BJ8 when
> using a so called waterless coolant...which in fact is endothermic (which
> means it absorbs heat...not dissipates it) and on heat soak after switch
> off  the following pics tell the story...
>
> I fixed the problem by draining and flushing all the waterless coolant out
> and refilling with demineralised water and adding Penrite Classic Coolant
> additive.
>
> Problem solved...no more overheating!!
>
> Happy Healeying,
>
> Darryl Ross
>
> Wagga Wagga NSW Australia
>
> '67 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Nov  3 01:56:01 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 09:56:01 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Remote reservoir cap
In-Reply-To: <72352b13-5978-e7f4-7caf-3bfe713ffe9d@comcast.net>
References: <CABXhz8_aK5rY17_+t5+EeFR6Bw3W2E8uT2fiQk2ZVrcyLW6=RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <72352b13-5978-e7f4-7caf-3bfe713ffe9d@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3788778d-b300-9f8d-621f-a99a2bfb9e6c@chello.nl>

The Gunson's Eesybleed system!. Be carefull to use low pressure only, 
less than 0,5bar will be more than enough. To high a pressure and the 
cap will fly off causing a horrible mess of brake fluid everywhere.

Youtube has several instruction video's e.g.: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lz8t6ZkVSQM

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 3-11-2019 om 06:02 schreef Bob Spidell:
> Don't the 'usual suspects' stock these?*
>
> I did this years ago; never have a problem getting good pedal.
>
> Bob
>
> * You're in Portland; maybe Tom has one?
>
>
> On 11/2/2019 9:36 PM, i erbs wrote:
>> Looking for a cap for the clutch/ brake reservior for my bn4. I want 
>> to put an air fitting in it to pressurize my system to help bleed the 
>> brakes.
>> Cost plus shipping to 97219
>> Portland, Oregon
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland, OR
>> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Nov  3 02:04:22 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 10:04:22 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89G-8zxpTJjS_cVTCVVBE19LvtEV8Z6htTRP2axuSn5MA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAH2i9kv2kS6JfsFgh97PJ-JQvZRQ6d4R3XNDksA1Tz=hxTbj1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <000a01d59206$06ad08c0$14071a40$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CABXhz89G-8zxpTJjS_cVTCVVBE19LvtEV8Z6htTRP2axuSn5MA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ea203c18-1e05-a1ad-8e04-3ca6d3467e40@chello.nl>

Quite normal. Many older cars do thisBest to fit an overflow/expansion 
bottle or reservoir and an airtight seal on the rad cap. Fill up the 
radiator to the brim and the reservoi to about halfway. When the coolant 
gets hot or boils it will escape into the expansion reservoir. After 
cooling down the coolant will be drawn back into the radiator.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 3-11-2019 om 08:05 schreef i erbs:
> Has happend to mine as well
> ?Still freaks me out
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>
> On Sat, Nov 2, 2019, 10:18 PM John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net 
> <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
>
>     I think that is natural for a Healey. The temp gauge in my Healey
>     always pegs out in the summer. It quickly gets back to 180-190
>     once I start it up.
>
>     John
>
>     ?62 BT7
>
>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *Deejay2650 .
>     *Sent:* Saturday, November 2, 2019 7:57 PM
>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Radiator Shovel, continued
>
>     G'day All,
>
>     Reading the various threads of late, I read about a temperature
>     gauge reading almost into the oil gauge...I had this problem with
>     my BJ8 when using a so called waterless coolant...which in fact is
>     endothermic (which means it absorbs heat...not dissipates it) and
>     on heat soak after switch off? the following pics tell the story...
>
>     I fixed the problem by draining and flushing all the waterless
>     coolant out and refilling with demineralised water and adding
>     Penrite Classic Coolant additive.
>
>     Problem solved...no more overheating!!
>
>     Happy Healeying,
>
>     Darryl Ross
>
>     Wagga Wagga NSW Australia
>
>     '67 BJ8
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com  Sun Nov  3 09:02:58 2019
From: DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 16:02:58 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator cooling
Message-ID: <BN6PR13MB32037D274D553900324F1D7EB87C0@BN6PR13MB3203.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

Forget electric fans, 6 blade fans, oil coolers etc.  I tried all of them.  I cured the over heating by having an extra row added to my radiator.  The only problem was I needed to shoe horn the radiator into the engine compartment.  Now I rarely exceed normal operating temps, even in traffic on very hot days.  Also can now run at high speeds for extended periods of time without over heating.
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Nov  3 09:52:14 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 08:52:14 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Clip for Capillary AHB5397
Message-ID: <9C37ED46562D4ECC91F2AAEA88A53579@AllInOne>

Hello,
 
My car was missing the clips to support the water temperature gauge
capillary pipe part number AHB5397. It looks like the design was changed
sometime during the Mk II production or later. My car is a Mk I. The part I
am looking for is No. 25 on the attached PDF. It is not available from the
"usual suspects" on either sides of the pond.
 
Does anyone know a source? I can make the part but would like to have a
sketch to work from. I am fine with used parts in reasonable shape as well.
 
Any assistance is appreciated.
 
Harold
1960 BT7 Mk1
 
PS - A significant contributor to over heating when slowing down after a
long drive is the lower water flow generated by the water pump. Lets face it
the the AH cooling system is marginal and there is no magic solution. Best
practise says use a water and antifreeze mixture, make sure there are no
restrictions in the radiator (tubes starting to plug), drill a 1/16" hole in
the thermostat to help eliminate any trapped air, add a coolant overflow
with the right cap to maximize water in the system, use a 5 or 6 blade fan
and keep all of the shrouding in place.
 
 
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sun Nov  3 10:42:30 2019
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 09:42:30 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Clip for Capillary AHB5397
In-Reply-To: <9C37ED46562D4ECC91F2AAEA88A53579@AllInOne>
References: <9C37ED46562D4ECC91F2AAEA88A53579@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqOkn3_Yqk1wxcMYiDjj6DFkndZpG8HTFgjLp6bLN1LarQ@mail.gmail.com>

The "clip" shown in the photo is something you can fab up yourself. The
lower hole is the size of the manifold stud.  The top hole is where the
real clip, the clip that actually holds the capillary tube, fits into.  It
is smaller than the stud hole. Can't tell you precisely here, but the size
is critical to hold the small clip securely.  The clip I am referring to is
very similar to the clip that holds the slave cylinder clutch hydraulic
line to the right side footwell, in the vertical position.



On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 9:14 AM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> My car was missing the clips to support the water temperature gauge
> capillary pipe part number AHB5397. It looks like the design was changed
> sometime during the Mk II production or later. My car is a Mk I. The part I
> am looking for is No. 25 on the attached PDF. It is not available from the
> "usual suspects" on either sides of the pond.
>
> Does anyone know a source? I can make the part but would like to have a
> sketch to work from. I am fine with used parts in reasonable shape as well.
>
> Any assistance is appreciated.
>
> Harold
> 1960 BT7 Mk1
>
> PS - A significant contributor to over heating when slowing down after a
> long drive is the lower water flow generated by the water pump. Lets face
> it the the AH cooling system is marginal and there is no magic solution.
> Best practise says use a water and antifreeze mixture, make sure there are
> no restrictions in the radiator (tubes starting to plug), drill a 1/16"
> hole in the thermostat to help eliminate any trapped air, add a coolant
> overflow with the right cap to maximize water in the system, use a 5 or 6
> blade fan and keep all of the shrouding in place.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Nov  3 14:08:55 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 16:08:55 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Remote reservoir cap
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_aK5rY17_+t5+EeFR6Bw3W2E8uT2fiQk2ZVrcyLW6=RQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_aK5rY17_+t5+EeFR6Bw3W2E8uT2fiQk2ZVrcyLW6=RQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLuxiZwR7vq+pXyK0v9b02fj4vY7Y5sxukkrv_LoywG1Q@mail.gmail.com>

I probably have one Ira but a word of caution ... be very careful how much
pressure you apply!
I have a Snap On pressurizing bleeder system which works very well BUT at
anything over about 5 P.S.I. there is a serious risk of blowing the
standard cap off the reservoir and spraying brake fluid everywhere.
I use a wheel bearing grease cap, with a rubber seal in which I secure to
the reservoir with a pair of spring clips off an old ski boot.
[image: image.png]
Okay, it looks a bit crude but it has served me very well for at least 30
years!!

M

On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 12:36 AM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Looking for a cap for the clutch/ brake reservior for my bn4. I want to
> put an air fitting in it to pressurize my system to help bleed the brakes.
> Cost plus shipping to 97219
> Portland, Oregon
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Nov  3 14:13:09 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 16:13:09 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Clip for Capillary AHB5397
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqOkn3_Yqk1wxcMYiDjj6DFkndZpG8HTFgjLp6bLN1LarQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9C37ED46562D4ECC91F2AAEA88A53579@AllInOne>
 <CAKkXjqOkn3_Yqk1wxcMYiDjj6DFkndZpG8HTFgjLp6bLN1LarQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJddTa7XKq9Mn+2zq7P=xUExjVP9qis7GpfidfQfi1WdQ@mail.gmail.com>

I think these may be the clips that you are referring to BHA4081 but I'm
not sure that they went back to the MkI
[image: image.png]

M

On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 12:42 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

> The "clip" shown in the photo is something you can fab up yourself. The
> lower hole is the size of the manifold stud.  The top hole is where the
> real clip, the clip that actually holds the capillary tube, fits into.  It
> is smaller than the stud hole. Can't tell you precisely here, but the size
> is critical to hold the small clip securely.  The clip I am referring to is
> very similar to the clip that holds the slave cylinder clutch hydraulic
> line to the right side footwell, in the vertical position.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 9:14 AM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>>
>> My car was missing the clips to support the water temperature gauge
>> capillary pipe part number AHB5397. It looks like the design was changed
>> sometime during the Mk II production or later. My car is a Mk I. The part I
>> am looking for is No. 25 on the attached PDF. It is not available from the
>> "usual suspects" on either sides of the pond.
>>
>> Does anyone know a source? I can make the part but would like to have a
>> sketch to work from. I am fine with used parts in reasonable shape as well.
>>
>> Any assistance is appreciated.
>>
>> Harold
>> 1960 BT7 Mk1
>>
>> PS - A significant contributor to over heating when slowing down after a
>> long drive is the lower water flow generated by the water pump. Lets face
>> it the the AH cooling system is marginal and there is no magic solution.
>> Best practise says use a water and antifreeze mixture, make sure there are
>> no restrictions in the radiator (tubes starting to plug), drill a 1/16"
>> hole in the thermostat to help eliminate any trapped air, add a coolant
>> overflow with the right cap to maximize water in the system, use a 5 or 6
>> blade fan and keep all of the shrouding in place.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Nov  3 14:21:46 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 22:21:46 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Remote reservoir cap
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLuxiZwR7vq+pXyK0v9b02fj4vY7Y5sxukkrv_LoywG1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz8_aK5rY17_+t5+EeFR6Bw3W2E8uT2fiQk2ZVrcyLW6=RQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLuxiZwR7vq+pXyK0v9b02fj4vY7Y5sxukkrv_LoywG1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7b5e8bf2-198c-94a3-f94e-e0ce9660417f@chello.nl>

Clever bit of sound engineering!

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 3-11-2019 om 22:08 schreef Michael Salter:
> I probably have one Ira but a word of caution ... be very careful how 
> much pressure you apply!
> I have a Snap On pressurizing bleeder system which works very well BUT 
> at anything over about 5 P.S.I. there is a serious risk of blowing the 
> standard cap off the reservoir and spraying brake fluid everywhere.
> I use a wheel bearing grease cap, with a rubber seal in which I secure 
> to the reservoir with a pair of spring clips off an old ski boot.
> image.png
> Okay, it looks a bit crude but it has served me very well for at least 
> 30 years!!
>
> M
>
> On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 12:36 AM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com 
> <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     Looking for a cap for the clutch/ brake reservior for my bn4. I
>     want to put an air fitting in it to pressurize my system to help
>     bleed the brakes.
>     Cost plus shipping to 97219
>     Portland, Oregon
>
>     Ira Erbs
>     Portland, OR
>     typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Sun Nov  3 14:40:00 2019
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 16:40:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Remote reservoir cap
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLuxiZwR7vq+pXyK0v9b02fj4vY7Y5sxukkrv_LoywG1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLuxiZwR7vq+pXyK0v9b02fj4vY7Y5sxukkrv_LoywG1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <56189B71-26DC-45A9-99AD-BA58965E53F5@yahoo.com>

I bought the EZ Bleeds system from Moss. Comes with 4 or 5 different size caps . One of them should work for you . You take your spare tire , let out the air till around the prescribed PSI and your all set to go . Other people sell them and I?m sure you could get it on E Bay 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 3, 2019, at 4:10 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I probably have one Ira but a word of caution ... be very careful how much pressure you apply!
> I have a Snap On pressurizing bleeder system which works very well BUT at anything over about 5 P.S.I. there is a serious risk of blowing the standard cap off the reservoir and spraying brake fluid everywhere.
> I use a wheel bearing grease cap, with a rubber seal in which I secure to the reservoir with a pair of spring clips off an old ski boot.
> <image.png>
> Okay, it looks a bit crude but it has served me very well for at least 30 years!!
> 
> M
> 
>> On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 12:36 AM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Looking for a cap for the clutch/ brake reservior for my bn4. I want to put an air fitting in it to pressurize my system to help bleed the brakes.
>> Cost plus shipping to 97219
>> Portland, Oregon 
>> 
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland, OR
>> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com
> 
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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Sun Nov  3 14:40:00 2019
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 16:40:00 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Remote reservoir cap
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLuxiZwR7vq+pXyK0v9b02fj4vY7Y5sxukkrv_LoywG1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLuxiZwR7vq+pXyK0v9b02fj4vY7Y5sxukkrv_LoywG1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <56189B71-26DC-45A9-99AD-BA58965E53F5@yahoo.com>

I bought the EZ Bleeds system from Moss. Comes with 4 or 5 different size caps . One of them should work for you . You take your spare tire , let out the air till around the prescribed PSI and your all set to go . Other people sell them and I?m sure you could get it on E Bay 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 3, 2019, at 4:10 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I probably have one Ira but a word of caution ... be very careful how much pressure you apply!
> I have a Snap On pressurizing bleeder system which works very well BUT at anything over about 5 P.S.I. there is a serious risk of blowing the standard cap off the reservoir and spraying brake fluid everywhere.
> I use a wheel bearing grease cap, with a rubber seal in which I secure to the reservoir with a pair of spring clips off an old ski boot.
> <image.png>
> Okay, it looks a bit crude but it has served me very well for at least 30 years!!
> 
> M
> 
>> On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 12:36 AM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Looking for a cap for the clutch/ brake reservior for my bn4. I want to put an air fitting in it to pressurize my system to help bleed the brakes.
>> Cost plus shipping to 97219
>> Portland, Oregon 
>> 
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland, OR
>> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Nov  3 14:41:27 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 21:41:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Clip for Capillary AHB5397
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJddTa7XKq9Mn+2zq7P=xUExjVP9qis7GpfidfQfi1WdQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9C37ED46562D4ECC91F2AAEA88A53579@AllInOne>
 <CAKkXjqOkn3_Yqk1wxcMYiDjj6DFkndZpG8HTFgjLp6bLN1LarQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJddTa7XKq9Mn+2zq7P=xUExjVP9qis7GpfidfQfi1WdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <715435159.961881.1572817288015@mail.yahoo.com>

Heck, you can make one of those and spray paint it any color you want.Mike MacLean

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 1:18 PM, Michael Salter<michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:   _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Nov  3 15:09:56 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 23:09:56 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Remote reservoir cap
In-Reply-To: <56189B71-26DC-45A9-99AD-BA58965E53F5@yahoo.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLuxiZwR7vq+pXyK0v9b02fj4vY7Y5sxukkrv_LoywG1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <56189B71-26DC-45A9-99AD-BA58965E53F5@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <23b209cf-22e5-1b1f-a16a-57fdc9a515f9@chello.nl>

I have used Eesybleed for donkey's years to my satisfaction. The only 
downside are the caps that are supplied with the kit. Older kits had 
weak aluminium or thin plated steel caps that did not hold well and 
could fly of the brake fluid reservoir. I think they improved on that 
nowadays.

That is why I used? modified original caps for some of the cars I have had.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 3-11-2019 om 22:40 schreef Don via Healeys:
> I bought the EZ Bleeds system from Moss. Comes with 4 or 5 different 
> size caps . One of them should work for you . You take your spare tire 
> , let out the air till around the prescribed PSI and your all set to 
> go . Other people sell them and I?m sure you could get it on E Bay
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Nov 3, 2019, at 4:10 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> 
>> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> I probably have one Ira but a word of caution ... be very careful how 
>> much pressure you apply!
>> I have a Snap On pressurizing bleeder system which works very well 
>> BUT at anything over about 5 P.S.I. there is a serious risk of 
>> blowing the standard cap off the reservoir and spraying brake fluid 
>> everywhere.
>> I use a wheel bearing grease cap, with a rubber seal in which I 
>> secure to the reservoir with a pair of spring clips off an old ski boot.
>> <image.png>
>> Okay, it looks a bit crude but it has served me very well for at 
>> least 30 years!!
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 12:36 AM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com 
>> <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     Looking for a cap for the clutch/ brake reservior for my bn4. I
>>     want to put an air fitting in it to pressurize my system to help
>>     bleed the brakes.
>>     Cost plus shipping to 97219
>>     Portland, Oregon
>>
>>     Ira Erbs
>>     Portland, OR
>>     typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com
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>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Nov  3 15:25:48 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 14:25:48 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Clip for Capillary AHB5397
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJddTa7XKq9Mn+2zq7P=xUExjVP9qis7GpfidfQfi1WdQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9C37ED46562D4ECC91F2AAEA88A53579@AllInOne>
 <CAKkXjqOkn3_Yqk1wxcMYiDjj6DFkndZpG8HTFgjLp6bLN1LarQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJddTa7XKq9Mn+2zq7P=xUExjVP9qis7GpfidfQfi1WdQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_wc4MqfdGgiGCx1OFOxXeuyTUcKQAnfuCpVqKf_sA9kg@mail.gmail.com>

They are on my early MKI engine

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Sun, Nov 3, 2019, 1:19 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

> I think these may be the clips that you are referring to BHA4081 but I'm
> not sure that they went back to the MkI
> [image: image.png]
>
> M
>
> On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 12:42 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> The "clip" shown in the photo is something you can fab up yourself. The
>> lower hole is the size of the manifold stud.  The top hole is where the
>> real clip, the clip that actually holds the capillary tube, fits into.  It
>> is smaller than the stud hole. Can't tell you precisely here, but the size
>> is critical to hold the small clip securely.  The clip I am referring to is
>> very similar to the clip that holds the slave cylinder clutch hydraulic
>> line to the right side footwell, in the vertical position.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 9:14 AM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> My car was missing the clips to support the water temperature gauge
>>> capillary pipe part number AHB5397. It looks like the design was changed
>>> sometime during the Mk II production or later. My car is a Mk I. The part I
>>> am looking for is No. 25 on the attached PDF. It is not available from the
>>> "usual suspects" on either sides of the pond.
>>>
>>> Does anyone know a source? I can make the part but would like to have a
>>> sketch to work from. I am fine with used parts in reasonable shape as well.
>>>
>>> Any assistance is appreciated.
>>>
>>> Harold
>>> 1960 BT7 Mk1
>>>
>>> PS - A significant contributor to over heating when slowing down after a
>>> long drive is the lower water flow generated by the water pump. Lets face
>>> it the the AH cooling system is marginal and there is no magic solution.
>>> Best practise says use a water and antifreeze mixture, make sure there are
>>> no restrictions in the radiator (tubes starting to plug), drill a 1/16"
>>> hole in the thermostat to help eliminate any trapped air, add a coolant
>>> overflow with the right cap to maximize water in the system, use a 5 or 6
>>> blade fan and keep all of the shrouding in place.
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Nov  3 16:11:53 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 15:11:53 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Clip for Capillary AHB5397
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_wc4MqfdGgiGCx1OFOxXeuyTUcKQAnfuCpVqKf_sA9kg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9C37ED46562D4ECC91F2AAEA88A53579@AllInOne>
 <CAKkXjqOkn3_Yqk1wxcMYiDjj6DFkndZpG8HTFgjLp6bLN1LarQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJddTa7XKq9Mn+2zq7P=xUExjVP9qis7GpfidfQfi1WdQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8_wc4MqfdGgiGCx1OFOxXeuyTUcKQAnfuCpVqKf_sA9kg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <08CD2A321CC946AD9C852CEFA194C399@AllInOne>

We are close. I am looking for the piece those clips attach to. Should be
close to a 5/8" x 2 1/2" small bracket with two holes. One for the manifold
stud and the other for the clip in the picture below.
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2019 2:26 PM
To: Michael Salter
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clip for Capillary AHB5397


They are on my early MKI engine 


Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Sun, Nov 3, 2019, 1:19 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:


I think these may be the clips that you are referring to BHA4081 but I'm not
sure that they went back to the MkI
image.png

M


On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 12:42 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:


The "clip" shown in the photo is something you can fab up yourself. The
lower hole is the size of the manifold stud.  The top hole is where the real
clip, the clip that actually holds the capillary tube, fits into.  It is
smaller than the stud hole. Can't tell you precisely here, but the size is
critical to hold the small clip securely.  The clip I am referring to is
very similar to the clip that holds the slave cylinder clutch hydraulic line
to the right side footwell, in the vertical position.




On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 9:14 AM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:



Hello,
 
My car was missing the clips to support the water temperature gauge
capillary pipe part number AHB5397. It looks like the design was changed
sometime during the Mk II production or later. My car is a Mk I. The part I
am looking for is No. 25 on the attached PDF. It is not available from the
"usual suspects" on either sides of the pond.
 
Does anyone know a source? I can make the part but would like to have a
sketch to work from. I am fine with used parts in reasonable shape as well.
 
Any assistance is appreciated.
 
Harold
1960 BT7 Mk1
 
PS - A significant contributor to over heating when slowing down after a
long drive is the lower water flow generated by the water pump. Lets face it
the the AH cooling system is marginal and there is no magic solution. Best
practise says use a water and antifreeze mixture, make sure there are no
restrictions in the radiator (tubes starting to plug), drill a 1/16" hole in
the thermostat to help eliminate any trapped air, add a coolant overflow
with the right cap to maximize water in the system, use a 5 or 6 blade fan
and keep all of the shrouding in place.
 
 
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 05:33:03 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 07:33:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>

Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the
cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the
tank.
Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in
extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the
filler neck.
Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out I
thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.
Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could
happen?

Best--Michael Oritt
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 06:05:32 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 08:05:32 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+GnAY7869m6KAfnZKgDMMr1WsC1nEHQzn6byX=2DzrPA@mail.gmail.com>

I may be mistaken Michael but I  think they are made of brass.

M

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 7:33 AM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the
> cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the
> tank.
> Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in
> extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the
> filler neck.
> Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out
> I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.
> Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could
> happen?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From Tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Nov  4 06:22:01 2019
From: Tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 08:22:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+GnAY7869m6KAfnZKgDMMr1WsC1nEHQzn6byX=2DzrPA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+GnAY7869m6KAfnZKgDMMr1WsC1nEHQzn6byX=2DzrPA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1997923710.730672.1572873721066.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

I would think both are larger than the intake line----and some intake lines have a sock type filter over them.  If this is true, they are too big to be sucked into the line.  I guess it is possible for them to block that line but would release when the pump stops.tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, 04 Nov 2019 08:05:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank

I may be mistaken Michael but I  think they are made of brass.
M
On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 7:33 AM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the tank.Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the filler neck.Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.  Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could happen? 

Best--Michael Oritt
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75


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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 06:22:51 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 08:22:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+GnAY7869m6KAfnZKgDMMr1WsC1nEHQzn6byX=2DzrPA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+GnAY7869m6KAfnZKgDMMr1WsC1nEHQzn6byX=2DzrPA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5RCpsjfU48kojSomQz8tU2dkq8hM9+pq5USHScTSbFhA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Michael--

Though I don't think the spring could be made of brass perhaps the inner
plate is.
Even if so what if anything do you think I should do--beyond getting a new
cap?

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 8:04 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I may be mistaken Michael but I  think they are made of brass.
>
> M
>
> On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 7:33 AM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the
>> cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the
>> tank.
>> Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in
>> extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the
>> filler neck.
>> Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out
>> I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.
>> Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could
>> happen?
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
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>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Nov  4 06:49:37 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 08:49:37 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Helping Neighbor 1941 Ford
Message-ID: <mailman.15.1572875384.2919.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers.? 
Trying to help a neighbor that has had a stroke and is trying to deal with the after effects.? Also not trying to break the list rules about selling stuff.? 
Just asking if anyone knows someone that may be interested in getting more info on this 1941 Ford 2 Door Sedan.? All there and together with flathead and three on the tree.? I just helped get the turn signal wiring sorted and a new headlight switch on the dash installed.? Brakes are now functional and we are going for a new battery this week. White exterior in good shape and a reasonable interior in good shape. Almost new tires and decent chrome bits. $10,000 is number he can live with and is in line with other examples I have looked at. . 

Please let me know via email (healeyguy at aol.com) off the Healey list and I can get some photos and other requested info to the interested party. Car located in Beaver Falls Pennsylvania. 

Appreciate your help in trying times?actually I appreciate your help all the time. 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Nov  3 14:54:12 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 21:54:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Remote reservoir cap
In-Reply-To: <56189B71-26DC-45A9-99AD-BA58965E53F5@yahoo.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLuxiZwR7vq+pXyK0v9b02fj4vY7Y5sxukkrv_LoywG1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <56189B71-26DC-45A9-99AD-BA58965E53F5@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1936983668.985151.1572818052808@mail.yahoo.com>

I bought one of these.? This is the price you pay if you order it from Moss.? You can find one on Ebay for $80.? It's hands down the best bleeder for a single person I have ever used.? Not critical on air pressure from you compressor.? Correct suction controlled by the unit.? No financial interest, just a very satisfied customer.? With two British cars and a third one on the way (69 MGB GT) a good one man bleeder is just great to have.? It was Ron Soave on the Spridget list that recommended one of these. Thanks Ron.

https://mossmotors.com/austin-healey-100-100-6-3000/brakes/brake-master-cylinder-hydraulics/brake-bleeder-vacuum
Mike MacLean
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 1:40 PM, Don via Healeys<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:   _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Sun Nov  3 14:54:12 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 3 Nov 2019 21:54:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Remote reservoir cap
In-Reply-To: <56189B71-26DC-45A9-99AD-BA58965E53F5@yahoo.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLuxiZwR7vq+pXyK0v9b02fj4vY7Y5sxukkrv_LoywG1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <56189B71-26DC-45A9-99AD-BA58965E53F5@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1936983668.985151.1572818052808@mail.yahoo.com>

I bought one of these.? This is the price you pay if you order it from Moss.? You can find one on Ebay for $80.? It's hands down the best bleeder for a single person I have ever used.? Not critical on air pressure from you compressor.? Correct suction controlled by the unit.? No financial interest, just a very satisfied customer.? With two British cars and a third one on the way (69 MGB GT) a good one man bleeder is just great to have.? It was Ron Soave on the Spridget list that recommended one of these. Thanks Ron.

https://mossmotors.com/austin-healey-100-100-6-3000/brakes/brake-master-cylinder-hydraulics/brake-bleeder-vacuum
Mike MacLean
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 1:40 PM, Don via Healeys<healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:   _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 08:35:17 2019
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 07:35:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5RCpsjfU48kojSomQz8tU2dkq8hM9+pq5USHScTSbFhA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+GnAY7869m6KAfnZKgDMMr1WsC1nEHQzn6byX=2DzrPA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5RCpsjfU48kojSomQz8tU2dkq8hM9+pq5USHScTSbFhA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+Yjt-71MY5w1gOmfwTir65Bhx6KMT61U6K24o_Y1mgyJw@mail.gmail.com>

Two thoughts. There are baffles in the tank that would keep the errant
parts in a limited part of the tank -- maybe where you could even see them
if the tank were empty and fish them out.

Also, the whole tank is steel so a bit more steel isn't going to be a big
deal. The pickup tube isn't likely to be interfered with.

I'll go check my original gas cap to see what a magnet does on the inside
of the cap.

-Roland

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 5:23 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Michael--
>
> Though I don't think the spring could be made of brass perhaps the inner
> plate is.
> Even if so what if anything do you think I should do--beyond getting a new
> cap?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 8:04 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I may be mistaken Michael but I  think they are made of brass.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 7:33 AM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the
>>> cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the
>>> tank.
>>> Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in
>>> extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the
>>> filler neck.
>>> Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts
>>> out I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.
>>> Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could
>>> happen?
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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From gilrockwell at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 08:41:16 2019
From: gilrockwell at gmail.com (Gil Rockwell)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 10:41:16 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <CADpDe+Yjt-71MY5w1gOmfwTir65Bhx6KMT61U6K24o_Y1mgyJw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7L+GnAY7869m6KAfnZKgDMMr1WsC1nEHQzn6byX=2DzrPA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5RCpsjfU48kojSomQz8tU2dkq8hM9+pq5USHScTSbFhA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CADpDe+Yjt-71MY5w1gOmfwTir65Bhx6KMT61U6K24o_Y1mgyJw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00fb01d59326$4c586740$e50935c0$@gmail.com>

I?d  use a long (36?)  retractable claw parts retriever to attempt to latch onto the errant parts.  At least the spring may be retrievable.  You can find these at Harbor Freight and other hardware and auto parts stores.  Saved me many times.

 

Gil R

1961 B7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roland Wilhelmy
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2019 10:35 AM
To: Michael Oritt
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank

 

Two thoughts. There are baffles in the tank that would keep the errant parts in a limited part of the tank -- maybe where you could even see them if the tank were empty and fish them out. 

 

Also, the whole tank is steel so a bit more steel isn't going to be a big deal. The pickup tube isn't likely to be interfered with. 

 

I'll go check my original gas cap to see what a magnet does on the inside of the cap. 

 

-Roland 

 

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 5:23 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

Hi Michael--

 

Though I don't think the spring could be made of brass perhaps the inner plate is.

Even if so what if anything do you think I should do--beyond getting a new cap?

 

Best--Michael Oritt

 

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 8:04 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

I may be mistaken Michael but I  think they are made of brass.

 

M

 

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 7:33 AM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the tank.
Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the filler neck.
Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.  
Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could happen? 

 

Best--Michael Oritt



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 09:22:22 2019
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 08:22:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+bDE2z9ZTzNrHwujhxZF1j5a+9CcPA3DaRdZ27bWERWvQ@mail.gmail.com>

A magnet says that there is something magnetic in the cap but observation
suggests that the large visible piece is brass. So the spring is probably
the steel part.
-Roland

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 4:33 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the
> cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the
> tank.
> Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in
> extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the
> filler neck.
> Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out
> I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.
> Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could
> happen?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>
>
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Mon Nov  4 09:39:49 2019
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 16:39:49 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003701d5932e$7a94d2d0$6fbe7870$@alexarevel.plus.com>

If there?s no fuel in the tank??.

I?ve had some success extricating little things from little places. Take a hoover with a flexible extension hose and tape a narrower, say garden hose, pipe into/onto the end of the hoover?s hose. Push the hose into the tank and suck away?..(I?m sure there?s a joke in there somewhere). if you can get the end near enough to the errant parts, it may grab them. 

If you fail to extricate them, leave them there. I don?t see them presenting any type of threat. A bit of excitement for some future owner.

Simon

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: 04 November 2019 12:33
To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank

 

Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the tank.
Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the filler neck.
Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.  
Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could happen? 

 

Best--Michael Oritt

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 10:12:22 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 09:12:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-94gg=nR2J9ZOoqoO-_nBts2_hg+e8W+2-TKU1OtLdQg@mail.gmail.com>

If you remove the extension pipe you migjt be able to get a grippy thingy
down into the tank and pull up the bits.
https://www.amazon.com/SE-860PT-Pick-Up-Tool-Prongs/dp/B000RB3KZ4/ref=asc_df_B000RB3KZ4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216548929909&hvpos=1o14&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1298565696105123565&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061080&hvtargid=pla-350576078523&psc=1
But maybe longer
Happy fishing.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 4:34 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the
> cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the
> tank.
> Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in
> extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the
> filler neck.
> Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out
> I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.
> Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could
> happen?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Nov  4 10:46:36 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 18:46:36 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <003701d5932e$7a94d2d0$6fbe7870$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <003701d5932e$7a94d2d0$6fbe7870$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <5c1e4440-e630-b6e6-0b93-b5f7aea24525@chello.nl>

DON"T do anything stupid like that!!!!!!!

Fuel or fuel mixture in a hoover could mean a big flame out!!!!!!

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 4-11-2019 om 17:39 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com:
>
> If there?s no fuel in the tank??.
>
> I?ve had some success extricating little things from little places. 
> Take a hoover with a flexible extension hose and tape a narrower, say 
> garden hose, pipe into/onto the end of the hoover?s hose. Push the 
> hose into the tank and suck away?..(I?m sure there?s a joke in there 
> somewhere). if you can get the end near enough to the errant parts, it 
> may grab them.
>
> If you fail to extricate them, leave them there. I don?t see them 
> presenting any type of threat. A bit of excitement for some future owner.
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael 
> Oritt
> *Sent:* 04 November 2019 12:33
> *To:* Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
>
> Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank 
> the cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell 
> into the tank.
> Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in 
> extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down 
> the filler neck.
> Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts 
> out I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.
> Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that 
> could happen?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Nov  4 10:50:49 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 18:50:49 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-94gg=nR2J9ZOoqoO-_nBts2_hg+e8W+2-TKU1OtLdQg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-94gg=nR2J9ZOoqoO-_nBts2_hg+e8W+2-TKU1OtLdQg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ef3137a5-6291-6bd8-6b84-621ed5550181@chello.nl>

I have some "grippy thingies" about 1m long and they have been very 
usefull at times, even when you have to work blind/hit and mis. They 
cost next to nothing. Combined with a mirror on an extendable rod and 
ditto magnet they cost less than ?4.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 4-11-2019 om 18:12 schreef i erbs:
> If you remove the extension pipe you migjt be able to get a grippy 
> thingy down into the tank and pull up the bits. 
> https://www.amazon.com/SE-860PT-Pick-Up-Tool-Prongs/dp/B000RB3KZ4/ref=asc_df_B000RB3KZ4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216548929909&hvpos=1o14&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1298565696105123565&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061080&hvtargid=pla-350576078523&psc=1 
>
> But maybe longer
> Happy fishing.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>
> On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 4:34 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com 
> <mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the
>     tank the cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure
>     plate fell into the tank.
>     Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful
>     in extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic
>     wand down the filler neck.
>     Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the
>     parts out I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is
>     necessary.
>     Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that
>     could happen?
>
>     Best--Michael Oritt
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Mon Nov  4 10:52:51 2019
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:52:51 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <5c1e4440-e630-b6e6-0b93-b5f7aea24525@chello.nl>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <003701d5932e$7a94d2d0$6fbe7870$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <5c1e4440-e630-b6e6-0b93-b5f7aea24525@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <005301d59338$af802440$0e806cc0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Read the mail. ?If there?s no fuel in the tank?. Obviously!

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs
Sent: 04 November 2019 17:47
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank

 

DON"T do anything stupid like that!!!!!!!

Fuel or fuel mixture in a hoover could mean a big flame out!!!!!!

Kees Oudesluijs

 

Op 4-11-2019 om 17:39 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> :

If there?s no fuel in the tank??.

I?ve had some success extricating little things from little places. Take a hoover with a flexible extension hose and tape a narrower, say garden hose, pipe into/onto the end of the hoover?s hose. Push the hose into the tank and suck away?..(I?m sure there?s a joke in there somewhere). if you can get the end near enough to the errant parts, it may grab them. 

If you fail to extricate them, leave them there. I don?t see them presenting any type of threat. A bit of excitement for some future owner.

Simon

 

 

From: Healeys  <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: 04 November 2019 12:33
To: Austin Healey  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank

 

Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the tank.
Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the filler neck.
Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.  
Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could happen? 

 

Best--Michael Oritt





_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
 
Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
 

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Mon Nov  4 11:43:08 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 19:43:08 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <005301d59338$af802440$0e806cc0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <003701d5932e$7a94d2d0$6fbe7870$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <5c1e4440-e630-b6e6-0b93-b5f7aea24525@chello.nl>
 <005301d59338$af802440$0e806cc0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <737d54a0-396b-fdbd-75c5-c145e8357132@chello.nl>

Even an empty tank can hold fumes unless it has been empty for a 
considerable time.


Op 4-11-2019 om 18:52 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com:
>
> Read the mail. ?If there?s no fuel in the tank?. Obviously!
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Kees 
> Oudesluijs
> *Sent:* 04 November 2019 17:47
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
>
> DON"T do anything stupid like that!!!!!!!
>
> Fuel or fuel mixture in a hoover could mean a big flame out!!!!!!
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 4-11-2019 om 17:39 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>:
>
>     If there?s no fuel in the tank??.
>
>     I?ve had some success extricating little things from little
>     places. Take a hoover with a flexible extension hose and tape a
>     narrower, say garden hose, pipe into/onto the end of the hoover?s
>     hose. Push the hose into the tank and suck away?..(I?m sure
>     there?s a joke in there somewhere). if you can get the end near
>     enough to the errant parts, it may grab them.
>
>     If you fail to extricate them, leave them there. I don?t see them
>     presenting any type of threat. A bit of excitement for some future
>     owner.
>
>     Simon
>
>     *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael Oritt
>     *Sent:* 04 November 2019 12:33
>     *To:* Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
>
>     Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the
>     tank the cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure
>     plate fell into the tank.
>     Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful
>     in extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic
>     wand down the filler neck.
>     Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the
>     parts out I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is
>     necessary.
>     Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that
>     could happen?
>
>     Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 14:21:04 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 13:21:04 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <5c1e4440-e630-b6e6-0b93-b5f7aea24525@chello.nl>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <003701d5932e$7a94d2d0$6fbe7870$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <5c1e4440-e630-b6e6-0b93-b5f7aea24525@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_JK_=LZz6-=562jVE1Z1L=aJqMhxuUkhf=BUc4Y1-E2g@mail.gmail.com>

agreed
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 9:47 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
wrote:

> DON"T do anything stupid like that!!!!!!!
>
> Fuel or fuel mixture in a hoover could mean a big flame out!!!!!!
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 4-11-2019 om 17:39 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com:
>
> If there?s no fuel in the tank??.
>
> I?ve had some success extricating little things from little places. Take a
> hoover with a flexible extension hose and tape a narrower, say garden hose,
> pipe into/onto the end of the hoover?s hose. Push the hose into the tank
> and suck away?..(I?m sure there?s a joke in there somewhere). if you can
> get the end near enough to the errant parts, it may grab them.
>
> If you fail to extricate them, leave them there. I don?t see them
> presenting any type of threat. A bit of excitement for some future owner.
>
> Simon
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael Oritt
> *Sent:* 04 November 2019 12:33
> *To:* Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
>
>
>
> Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the
> cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the
> tank.
> Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in
> extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the
> filler neck.
> Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out
> I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.
> Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could
> happen?
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From llennep at verizon.net  Mon Nov  4 15:25:27 2019
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 22:25:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-94gg=nR2J9ZOoqoO-_nBts2_hg+e8W+2-TKU1OtLdQg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-94gg=nR2J9ZOoqoO-_nBts2_hg+e8W+2-TKU1OtLdQg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1098395575.1518617.1572906327537@mail.yahoo.com>

I like Ira's thought.? Easy to do and quick if it works.Keith

-----Original Message-----
From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:12 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank

If you remove the extension pipe you migjt be able to get a grippy thingy down into the tank and pull up the bits.?https://www.amazon.com/SE-860PT-Pick-Up-Tool-Prongs/dp/B000RB3KZ4/ref=asc_df_B000RB3KZ4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216548929909&hvpos=1o14&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1298565696105123565&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061080&hvtargid=pla-350576078523&psc=1But maybe longerHappy fishing.

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 4:34 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the tank.
Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the filler neck.
Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.??
Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could happen??

Best--Michael Oritt_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 18:34:42 2019
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 17:34:42 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <1098395575.1518617.1572906327537@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-94gg=nR2J9ZOoqoO-_nBts2_hg+e8W+2-TKU1OtLdQg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1098395575.1518617.1572906327537@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+a_5k4Sy-q0tKEMYTNsLUkX941m-WM7LAaFxVA6YRhP5w@mail.gmail.com>

There is no extension on BN1 and 2 gas tanks. I thought Michael was talking
about an early big healey.
-Roland

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 2:25 PM Keith Pennell via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I like Ira's thought.  Easy to do and quick if it works.
> Keith
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:12 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
>
> If you remove the extension pipe you migjt be able to get a grippy thingy
> down into the tank and pull up the bits.
> https://www.amazon.com/SE-860PT-Pick-Up-Tool-Prongs/dp/B000RB3KZ4/ref=asc_df_B000RB3KZ4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216548929909&hvpos=1o14&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1298565696105123565&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061080&hvtargid=pla-350576078523&psc=1
> But maybe longer
> Happy fishing.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>
> On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 4:34 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the
> cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the
> tank.
> Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in
> extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the
> filler neck.
> Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out
> I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.
> Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could
> happen?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 20:03:02 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 22:03:02 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <CADpDe+a_5k4Sy-q0tKEMYTNsLUkX941m-WM7LAaFxVA6YRhP5w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-94gg=nR2J9ZOoqoO-_nBts2_hg+e8W+2-TKU1OtLdQg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1098395575.1518617.1572906327537@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CADpDe+a_5k4Sy-q0tKEMYTNsLUkX941m-WM7LAaFxVA6YRhP5w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5SbEK=DwBMHiEf81=VXchg4FcVh0F+vw93Rg6fSii0+Q@mail.gmail.com>

"There is no extension on BN1 and 2 gas tanks. I thought Michael was
talking about an early big healey."

Roland--

I am of course talking about my 100--I should have been more specific and
did not think it my place to correct those who assumed I was speaking of a
later car.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019 at 8:35 PM Roland Wilhelmy <sentenac.rw at gmail.com>
wrote:

> There is no extension on BN1 and 2 gas tanks. I thought Michael was
> talking about an early big healey.
> -Roland
>
> On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 2:25 PM Keith Pennell via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I like Ira's thought.  Easy to do and quick if it works.
>> Keith
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
>> To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:12 pm
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
>>
>> If you remove the extension pipe you migjt be able to get a grippy thingy
>> down into the tank and pull up the bits.
>> https://www.amazon.com/SE-860PT-Pick-Up-Tool-Prongs/dp/B000RB3KZ4/ref=asc_df_B000RB3KZ4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216548929909&hvpos=1o14&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1298565696105123565&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061080&hvtargid=pla-350576078523&psc=1
>> But maybe longer
>> Happy fishing.
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland, OR
>> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 4:34 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the
>> cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the
>> tank.
>> Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in
>> extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the
>> filler neck.
>> Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out
>> I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.
>> Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could
>> happen?
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/sentenac.rw at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Nov  4 20:21:07 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 19:21:07 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5SbEK=DwBMHiEf81=VXchg4FcVh0F+vw93Rg6fSii0+Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-94gg=nR2J9ZOoqoO-_nBts2_hg+e8W+2-TKU1OtLdQg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1098395575.1518617.1572906327537@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CADpDe+a_5k4Sy-q0tKEMYTNsLUkX941m-WM7LAaFxVA6YRhP5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5SbEK=DwBMHiEf81=VXchg4FcVh0F+vw93Rg6fSii0+Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <dc579e15-e1e1-4a84-615d-fedf0b7bf235@comcast.net>

Face it, Michael; you're not gonna sleep good until you pull the tank 
and shake the cap parts out.? Good time to inspect your boot pan anyway.

Bob

On 11/4/2019 7:03 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> "There is no extension on BN1 and 2 gas tanks. I thought Michael was 
> talking about an early big healey."
>
> Roland--
>
> I am of course talking?about my 100--I should have been more specific 
> and did not think it my place to correct those who assumed I was 
> speaking of a later car.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 20:24:26 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 19:24:26 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <dc579e15-e1e1-4a84-615d-fedf0b7bf235@comcast.net>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-94gg=nR2J9ZOoqoO-_nBts2_hg+e8W+2-TKU1OtLdQg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1098395575.1518617.1572906327537@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CADpDe+a_5k4Sy-q0tKEMYTNsLUkX941m-WM7LAaFxVA6YRhP5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5SbEK=DwBMHiEf81=VXchg4FcVh0F+vw93Rg6fSii0+Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <dc579e15-e1e1-4a84-615d-fedf0b7bf235@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-82zhCfJ1kGk0-0yQPP_rpL1NzgczzO7crP4ojigd=9g@mail.gmail.com>

?

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 7:21 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Face it, Michael; you're not gonna sleep good until you pull the tank and
> shake the cap parts out.  Good time to inspect your boot pan anyway.
>
> Bob
>
> On 11/4/2019 7:03 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>
> "There is no extension on BN1 and 2 gas tanks. I thought Michael was
> talking about an early big healey."
>
> Roland--
>
> I am of course talking about my 100--I should have been more specific and
> did not think it my place to correct those who assumed I was speaking of a
> later car.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Nov  4 22:16:40 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:16:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <dc579e15-e1e1-4a84-615d-fedf0b7bf235@comcast.net>
References: <CAPTa0B6p2Ei2aoJ9zLJty9Zwq9rkNFjGz6R2Vxbdd9YTp80QNA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8-94gg=nR2J9ZOoqoO-_nBts2_hg+e8W+2-TKU1OtLdQg@mail.gmail.com>
 <1098395575.1518617.1572906327537@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CADpDe+a_5k4Sy-q0tKEMYTNsLUkX941m-WM7LAaFxVA6YRhP5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5SbEK=DwBMHiEf81=VXchg4FcVh0F+vw93Rg6fSii0+Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <dc579e15-e1e1-4a84-615d-fedf0b7bf235@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <c70c81da-24ab-d5c4-bae3-3ac2ef493a3c@comcast.net>

ps.? Thanks for the warning.? I'll look at gas caps with a suspicious 
eye from now on.


On 11/4/2019 7:21 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Face it, Michael; you're not gonna sleep good until you pull the tank 
> and shake the cap parts out.? Good time to inspect your boot pan anyway.
>
> Bob
>
> On 11/4/2019 7:03 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>> "There is no extension on BN1 and 2 gas tanks. I thought Michael was 
>> talking about an early big healey."
>>
>> Roland--
>>
>> I am of course talking?about my 100--I should have been more specific 
>> and did not think it my place to correct those who assumed I was 
>> speaking of a later car.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>
>

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Nov  4 22:36:41 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 4 Nov 2019 21:36:41 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
In-Reply-To: <7BFF30B4-44EB-46D1-AEFA-E6E4D84E9749@gmail.com>
References: <1098395575.1518617.1572906327537@mail.yahoo.com>
 <7BFF30B4-44EB-46D1-AEFA-E6E4D84E9749@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-Fa=S0783qZfGEtvkAKkX_Z-EGq-DWbAuWrHk-cuEY0Q@mail.gmail.com>

Perfect
Just found mine in a box

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 9:33 PM Bernard Cristalli <jagxk120 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Pair it with an endoscope.
> You can find one for $50 or less at Amazon?s.
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/DEPSTECH-Semi-rigid-Inspection-Waterproof-Adjustable/dp/B00STB0EW6/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=1-1-dXNiIGVuZG9zY29wZQ%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&keywords=Endoscope&pd_rd_i=B00STB0EW6&pd_rd_r=3e1ede40-a7c7-47aa-a9c6-ecbf5b0dac2e&pd_rd_w=e43BQ&pd_rd_wg=MNPK7&pf_rd_p=39892eb5-25ed-41d8-aff1-b659c9b73760&pf_rd_r=DV42X2D95J7VH2HDW4BR&psc=1&qid=1572931751
>
> iPad Pro
> BC
>
> Le 4 nov. 2019 ? 23:25, Keith Pennell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> a ?crit :
>
> ?
> I like Ira's thought.  Easy to do and quick if it works.
> Keith
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Nov 4, 2019 12:12 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Gas cap parts now in tank
>
> If you remove the extension pipe you migjt be able to get a grippy thingy
> down into the tank and pull up the bits.
> https://www.amazon.com/SE-860PT-Pick-Up-Tool-Prongs/dp/B000RB3KZ4/ref=asc_df_B000RB3KZ4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216548929909&hvpos=1o14&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1298565696105123565&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061080&hvtargid=pla-350576078523&psc=1
> But maybe longer
> Happy fishing.
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone
>
> On Mon, Nov 4, 2019, 4:34 AM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> Yesterday when I removed the gas cap preparatory to filling the tank the
> cap came apart and both the spring and inner pressure plate fell into the
> tank.
> Since the tank is steel I am doubtful that I would be successful in
> extricating the parts by fishing about with a long magnetic wand down the
> filler neck.
> Before removing the tank from the car and shaking it to get the parts out
> I thought I would ask for opinions on whether this is necessary.
> Given that the two pieces are made of steel what is the worst that could
> happen?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Tue Nov  5 09:57:37 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 08:57:37 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator shovel
In-Reply-To: <00d501d58fe7$4e3b63b0$eab22b10$@gmail.com>
References: <9A1EB85A-C68D-449C-8867-7F4D1C40737B@gmail.com>
 <001201d58f74$5e294940$1a7bdbc0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <00d501d58fe7$4e3b63b0$eab22b10$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <14f601d593fa$229cb4e0$67d61ea0$@roadrunner.com>

I bought mine from Chris Gallagher (studio at chrisgallagher.ca).  I also
installed the Moss oil cooler kit.  Combined, I achieved about a 10 degree
drop in indicated temp, helpful in So Cal summers.

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert
Begani
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2019 5:33 AM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com; eyera3000 at gmail.com; 'Healey Email
list' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator shovel

Thanks Simon those pictures where what I was looking for when I started to
make my Shovel Baffle whatever.  I maintain it really helps in hot climates
which are getting hotter.  Still waiting for the cool northerly winds which
are the reason we live in in South Florida.  Also, makes for enjoyable
sailing days.

Bob Begani

-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2019 6:50 PM
To: 'Bob Begani' <rfbegani at gmail.com>; eyera3000 at gmail.com; 'Healey Email
list' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Radiator shovel

Here's what I filed away. All cobbled together but may help.
Glad that we don't really have these cooling issues here. Touch wood!!
Simon

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Begani
Sent: 30 October 2019 16:05
To: eyera3000 at gmail.com; Bob Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com>; Healey Email list
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator shovel

Here are pictures of what I fabricated from the picture I got from someone
on the list which I no longer have  


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Nov  5 10:44:21 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 5 Nov 2019 09:44:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator shovel
In-Reply-To: <14f601d593fa$229cb4e0$67d61ea0$@roadrunner.com>
References: <9A1EB85A-C68D-449C-8867-7F4D1C40737B@gmail.com>
 <001201d58f74$5e294940$1a7bdbc0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <00d501d58fe7$4e3b63b0$eab22b10$@gmail.com>
 <14f601d593fa$229cb4e0$67d61ea0$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <667d7fcb-4c5a-c0c0-c7e1-b82b03bb4aa7@comcast.net>

Does the oil cooler help in So Cal stop-and-go (and stop again) 
traffic/red lights?

On 11/5/2019 8:57 AM, Bruce Steele wrote:
> I bought mine from Chris Gallagher (studio at chrisgallagher.ca).  I also
> installed the Moss oil cooler kit.  Combined, I achieved about a 10 degree
> drop in indicated temp, helpful in So Cal summers.
>
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>


From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Wed Nov  6 09:06:53 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 08:06:53 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator shovel
In-Reply-To: <667d7fcb-4c5a-c0c0-c7e1-b82b03bb4aa7@comcast.net>
References: <9A1EB85A-C68D-449C-8867-7F4D1C40737B@gmail.com>
 <001201d58f74$5e294940$1a7bdbc0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <00d501d58fe7$4e3b63b0$eab22b10$@gmail.com>
 <14f601d593fa$229cb4e0$67d61ea0$@roadrunner.com>
 <667d7fcb-4c5a-c0c0-c7e1-b82b03bb4aa7@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1a2601d594bc$368b9ee0$a3a2dca0$@roadrunner.com>

Hard to quantify, or even confirm, the impact of the oil cooler itself, but
I would say yes, a little.  Starting at about 10 degrees lower gives me more
headroom.  The added volume of oil allows for, I am assuming, a bit more
dissipation of heat as well.  That said, I still do all I can to avoid
freeway congestion when it is above 90; I prefer to use surface streets
where I can vary my route and at least have some recover between stoplights.
I also find that when stopped, running at about 1700-1800 rpm moves a lot
more air (I have a 6-blade tropical fan) which helps buy me more time.  Or I
avoid driving altogether under those conditions, as they are not much fun on
the driver either!

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 9:44 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator shovel

Does the oil cooler help in So Cal stop-and-go (and stop again) traffic/red
lights?

On 11/5/2019 8:57 AM, Bruce Steele wrote:
> I bought mine from Chris Gallagher (studio at chrisgallagher.ca).  I also 
> installed the Moss oil cooler kit.  Combined, I achieved about a 10 
> degree drop in indicated temp, helpful in So Cal summers.
>
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>

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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Wed Nov  6 09:27:10 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Wed, 6 Nov 2019 08:27:10 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Clip for Capillary AHB5397
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8_wc4MqfdGgiGCx1OFOxXeuyTUcKQAnfuCpVqKf_sA9kg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9C37ED46562D4ECC91F2AAEA88A53579@AllInOne>
 <CAKkXjqOkn3_Yqk1wxcMYiDjj6DFkndZpG8HTFgjLp6bLN1LarQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJddTa7XKq9Mn+2zq7P=xUExjVP9qis7GpfidfQfi1WdQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz8_wc4MqfdGgiGCx1OFOxXeuyTUcKQAnfuCpVqKf_sA9kg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1a5f01d594bf$0c12f110$2438d330$@roadrunner.com>

If equipped with a heater, the Mk I (29D engines) used return pipe that sat closer to the manifolds.  The temperature capillary tube is not fastened to mounting brackets for this lower pipe as it is with the higher pipe on later cars (starting with 29E engines).  Rather, the tube was attached using the brackets in the attachment Harold sent, clipped on the inboard side, toward the rocker cover.  I believe the clips in the photo below were used for both capillary tube mounting styles.  

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Sunday, November 03, 2019 2:26 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Clip for Capillary AHB5397

 

They are on my early MKI engine 

Ira Erbs
Portland, OR
typos and artifacts are the fault of my phone

 

On Sun, Nov 3, 2019, 1:19 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:

I think these may be the clips that you are referring to BHA4081 but I'm not sure that they went back to the MkI



 

M

 

On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 12:42 PM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> > wrote:

The "clip" shown in the photo is something you can fab up yourself. The lower hole is the size of the manifold stud.  The top hole is where the real clip, the clip that actually holds the capillary tube, fits into.  It is smaller than the stud hole. Can't tell you precisely here, but the size is critical to hold the small clip securely.  The clip I am referring to is very similar to the clip that holds the slave cylinder clutch hydraulic line to the right side footwell, in the vertical position.

 

 

 

On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 9:14 AM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net> > wrote:

Hello,

 

My car was missing the clips to support the water temperature gauge capillary pipe part number AHB5397. It looks like the design was changed sometime during the Mk II production or later. My car is a Mk I. The part I am looking for is No. 25 on the attached PDF. It is not available from the "usual suspects" on either sides of the pond.

 

Does anyone know a source? I can make the part but would like to have a sketch to work from. I am fine with used parts in reasonable shape as well.

 

Any assistance is appreciated.

 

Harold

1960 BT7 Mk1

 

PS - A significant contributor to over heating when slowing down after a long drive is the lower water flow generated by the water pump. Lets face it the the AH cooling system is marginal and there is no magic solution. Best practise says use a water and antifreeze mixture, make sure there are no restrictions in the radiator (tubes starting to plug), drill a 1/16" hole in the thermostat to help eliminate any trapped air, add a coolant overflow with the right cap to maximize water in the system, use a 5 or 6 blade fan and keep all of the shrouding in place.

 

 

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From emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk  Thu Nov  7 09:17:37 2019
From: emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk (David Lodge)
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2019 16:17:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] POR15 in frame?
In-Reply-To: <CAMoKZw-iVw_j2htcJbfVZ-ChcELwRV166Kc_6b39DnYqnRBtaQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <0CC04ECE745C4163A29606393E42FDC6@HomePC>
 <CAMoKZw-iVw_j2htcJbfVZ-ChcELwRV166Kc_6b39DnYqnRBtaQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1951689243.572077.1573143457162@mail.yahoo.com>

I made a point of running magnets on wires through the chassis of my BJ8 when I had the rear cross-member off.? Amazing, the stuff that comes out of there!
 

    On Monday, 28 October 2019, 15:34:56 GMT-7, Mark Fawcett <m.fawcett at cox.net> wrote:  
 
 I used it on my 1959 BT7 nearly 20 years ago. POR means "Paint Over Rust". It can't hurt.
Mark Fawcett
On Mon, Oct 28, 2019 at 10:01 AM S. Carr <britfan1 at epix.net> wrote:

The man working on my 100 (frame & welded-on body parts all blasted & primed) is wondering if it would be a good idea to pour some POR15 into the holes in the frame and move the car around (it?s on a rotisserie) to spread the stuff around inside the frame rails.? What?s the List?s opinion??Thanks,Sarah Carr BN1 in PA_______________________________________________
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Nov  8 08:00:04 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 10:00:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Spruce Green
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJCB+6H7PYnqgoznBrRZd4RVMAbjACmSrE8iJSB9isjiQ@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone out there have a current code for Spruce Green.
Any guidance would be appreciated.

M
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From rvmaylor at shaw.ca  Fri Nov  8 11:52:06 2019
From: rvmaylor at shaw.ca (Ross Maylor)
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 11:52:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Spruce Green
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJCB+6H7PYnqgoznBrRZd4RVMAbjACmSrE8iJSB9isjiQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJCB+6H7PYnqgoznBrRZd4RVMAbjACmSrE8iJSB9isjiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001501d59665$9fd223b0$df766b10$@shaw.ca>

Not sure if these are current enough but may help.

Cheers 

Ross

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: November 8, 2019 8:00 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Spruce Green

 

Does anyone out there have a current code for Spruce Green.

Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

M

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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Nov  8 11:56:11 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 18:56:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator shovel
In-Reply-To: <1a2601d594bc$368b9ee0$a3a2dca0$@roadrunner.com>
References: <9A1EB85A-C68D-449C-8867-7F4D1C40737B@gmail.com>
 <001201d58f74$5e294940$1a7bdbc0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <00d501d58fe7$4e3b63b0$eab22b10$@gmail.com>
 <14f601d593fa$229cb4e0$67d61ea0$@roadrunner.com>
 <667d7fcb-4c5a-c0c0-c7e1-b82b03bb4aa7@comcast.net>,
 <1a2601d594bc$368b9ee0$a3a2dca0$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB3432498515BFD76DE3FD449AA57B0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

I promised some photos of my modification and I apologize that it took so long to find these and also to relearn how to load them from iphoto. On the right is the assembly of the fans.They are attached to the radiator core behind the cross bracing. Note the added sheetmetal angle I used to land the tops of the cross braces and the slight bend from the bottoms of the braces that gave me an extra inch to work with. The shiny highlights toward the outsides of the fan shrouds are the aluminum blanking plates that close off the edges of the fans and direct all of the air through the core.

On the left is the finished assembly. The fans are thermostatically controlled to come on when the coolant temp reaches 195 F. They shut off when the temp drops to 185. They will maintain 195 or below when idling in 100 F ambient temps at 5000 feet of altitude. Probably better at lower altitudes due to higher air density.

I am running a stock dynamo with a gel cell battery and so far have not had a problem with power capacity. The fans are powered through a relay and each is fused separately. The controller has bypass wire that is normally attached to the AC system to power the fans while it is running. I wired that in as a manual switch leg, but have never used it.

I had worried that the fans and shrouds ahead of the radiator core would impede the flow of air while the car was moving. That doesn't seem to be the case as the fans rarely come on while the car is moving and then only when at lower speed and climbing. The fans always come on after a run when the engine goes back to idle and excess heat begins to soak out of the engine, but that its normal.

I also added a coolant recovery tank to keep the radiator full and that seems to be working.

In the process I eliminated the mechanical fan from the engine and installed narrower pullys/belt sourced from a 6 cylinder engine altogether these have reduced the power lost through the (mostly ineffective) cast alloy fan and reduced engine vibration.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 4:06 PM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator shovel

Hard to quantify, or even confirm, the impact of the oil cooler itself, but
I would say yes, a little.  Starting at about 10 degrees lower gives me more
headroom.  The added volume of oil allows for, I am assuming, a bit more
dissipation of heat as well.  That said, I still do all I can to avoid
freeway congestion when it is above 90; I prefer to use surface streets
where I can vary my route and at least have some recover between stoplights.
I also find that when stopped, running at about 1700-1800 rpm moves a lot
more air (I have a 6-blade tropical fan) which helps buy me more time.  Or I
avoid driving altogether under those conditions, as they are not much fun on
the driver either!

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 9:44 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator shovel

Does the oil cooler help in So Cal stop-and-go (and stop again) traffic/red
lights?

On 11/5/2019 8:57 AM, Bruce Steele wrote:
> I bought mine from Chris Gallagher (studio at chrisgallagher.ca).  I also
> installed the Moss oil cooler kit.  Combined, I achieved about a 10
> degree drop in indicated temp, helpful in So Cal summers.
>
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Nov  8 12:33:16 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 20:33:16 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator shovel
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR07MB3432498515BFD76DE3FD449AA57B0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <9A1EB85A-C68D-449C-8867-7F4D1C40737B@gmail.com>
 <001201d58f74$5e294940$1a7bdbc0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <00d501d58fe7$4e3b63b0$eab22b10$@gmail.com>
 <14f601d593fa$229cb4e0$67d61ea0$@roadrunner.com>
 <667d7fcb-4c5a-c0c0-c7e1-b82b03bb4aa7@comcast.net>
 <1a2601d594bc$368b9ee0$a3a2dca0$@roadrunner.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432498515BFD76DE3FD449AA57B0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <af3e4095-2a81-5602-e3cb-ac431021694a@chello.nl>

Very nice job.


However I think that two fans of this size could be a bit of an overkill 
but I cannot judge the effect of airco as I am not familiar with that in 
old cars. You could try to completely remove one fan (and block the 
space at the side of the radiator) and see what happens. It would be a 
lighter load on the dynamo.


Kees Oudesluijs



Op 8-11-2019 om 19:56 schreef WILLIAM B LAWRENCE:
> I promised some photos of my modification and I apologize?that it took 
> so long to find these and also to relearn how to load them from 
> iphoto. On the right is the assembly of the fans.They are attached to 
> the radiator core behind the cross bracing. Note the added sheetmetal 
> angle I used to land the tops of the cross braces and the slight bend 
> from the bottoms of the braces that gave me an extra inch to work 
> with. The shiny highlights toward the outsides of the fan shrouds are 
> the aluminum blanking plates that close off the edges of the fans and 
> direct all of the air through the core.
>
> On the left is the finished assembly. The fans are thermostatically 
> controlled to come on when the coolant temp reaches 195 F. They shut 
> off when the temp drops to 185. They will maintain 195 or below when 
> idling in 100 F ambient temps at 5000 feet of altitude. Probably 
> better at lower altitudes due to higher air density.
>
> I am running a stock dynamo with a gel cell battery and so far have 
> not had a problem with power capacity. The fans are powered through a 
> relay and each is fused separately. The controller has bypass wire 
> that is normally attached to the AC system to power the fans while it 
> is running. I wired that in as a manual switch leg, but have never 
> used it.
>
> I had worried that the fans and shrouds ahead of the radiator core 
> would impede the flow of air while the car was moving. That doesn't 
> seem to be the case as the fans rarely come on while the car is moving 
> and then only when at lower speed and climbing. The fans always come 
> on after a run when the engine goes back to idle and excess heat 
> begins to soak out of the engine, but that its normal.
>
> I also added a coolant recovery tank to keep the radiator full and 
> that seems to be working.
>
> In the process I eliminated the mechanical fan from the engine and 
> installed narrower pullys/belt sourced from a 6 cylinder engine 
> altogether these have reduced the power lost through the (mostly 
> ineffective) cast alloy fan and reduced engine vibration.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bruce 
> Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 6, 2019 4:06 PM
> *To:* 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net 
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Radiator shovel
> Hard to quantify, or even confirm, the impact of the oil cooler 
> itself, but
> I would say yes, a little.? Starting at about 10 degrees lower gives 
> me more
> headroom.? The added volume of oil allows for, I am assuming, a bit more
> dissipation of heat as well.? That said, I still do all I can to avoid
> freeway congestion when it is above 90; I prefer to use surface streets
> where I can vary my route and at least have some recover between 
> stoplights.
> I also find that when stopped, running at about 1700-1800 rpm moves a lot
> more air (I have a 6-blade tropical fan) which helps buy me more 
> time.? Or I
> avoid driving altogether under those conditions, as they are not much 
> fun on
> the driver either!
>
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
> Spidell
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 9:44 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator shovel
>
> Does the oil cooler help in So Cal stop-and-go (and stop again) 
> traffic/red
> lights?
>
> On 11/5/2019 8:57 AM, Bruce Steele wrote:
> > I bought mine from Chris Gallagher (studio at chrisgallagher.ca).? I also
> > installed the Moss oil cooler kit.? Combined, I achieved about a 10
> > degree drop in indicated temp, helpful in So Cal summers.
> >
> > Bruce Steele
> > Brea, CA
> > 1960 BN7
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeybruce at roadrunner.com
>
>
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> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
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>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Nov  8 15:35:35 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 8 Nov 2019 22:35:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator shovel
In-Reply-To: <af3e4095-2a81-5602-e3cb-ac431021694a@chello.nl>
References: <9A1EB85A-C68D-449C-8867-7F4D1C40737B@gmail.com>
 <001201d58f74$5e294940$1a7bdbc0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <00d501d58fe7$4e3b63b0$eab22b10$@gmail.com>
 <14f601d593fa$229cb4e0$67d61ea0$@roadrunner.com>
 <667d7fcb-4c5a-c0c0-c7e1-b82b03bb4aa7@comcast.net>
 <1a2601d594bc$368b9ee0$a3a2dca0$@roadrunner.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432498515BFD76DE3FD449AA57B0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>,
 <af3e4095-2a81-5602-e3cb-ac431021694a@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB34321885161464F7963DAEE8A57B0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Thanks for the response Kees,

Overkill was exactly what I was looking for. I prefer to have excess cooling capacity rather than just enough. It allows for a bit of lost efficiency as the system ages.

I don't have AC on the car, but the thermostat kit I used is set up for it. I merely utilized the extra feature as a manual switch leg.

I think I'll keep both fans as they maintain air flow over the whole surface of the core and only run when the temp rises.

I haven't had any issues with the load on the dynamo, but if I do at some point I have the options of replacing it with a higher capacity unit or switching to an alternator. At this point I don't want to fix it if it's not broken.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Sent: Friday, November 8, 2019 7:33 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator shovel


Very nice job.


However I think that two fans of this size could be a bit of an overkill but I cannot judge the effect of airco as I am not familiar with that in old cars. You could try to completely remove one fan (and block the space at the side of the radiator) and see what happens. It would be a lighter load on the dynamo.


Kees Oudesluijs



Op 8-11-2019 om 19:56 schreef WILLIAM B LAWRENCE:
I promised some photos of my modification and I apologize that it took so long to find these and also to relearn how to load them from iphoto. On the right is the assembly of the fans.They are attached to the radiator core behind the cross bracing. Note the added sheetmetal angle I used to land the tops of the cross braces and the slight bend from the bottoms of the braces that gave me an extra inch to work with. The shiny highlights toward the outsides of the fan shrouds are the aluminum blanking plates that close off the edges of the fans and direct all of the air through the core.

On the left is the finished assembly. The fans are thermostatically controlled to come on when the coolant temp reaches 195 F. They shut off when the temp drops to 185. They will maintain 195 or below when idling in 100 F ambient temps at 5000 feet of altitude. Probably better at lower altitudes due to higher air density.

I am running a stock dynamo with a gel cell battery and so far have not had a problem with power capacity. The fans are powered through a relay and each is fused separately. The controller has bypass wire that is normally attached to the AC system to power the fans while it is running. I wired that in as a manual switch leg, but have never used it.

I had worried that the fans and shrouds ahead of the radiator core would impede the flow of air while the car was moving. That doesn't seem to be the case as the fans rarely come on while the car is moving and then only when at lower speed and climbing. The fans always come on after a run when the engine goes back to idle and excess heat begins to soak out of the engine, but that its normal.

I also added a coolant recovery tank to keep the radiator full and that seems to be working.

In the process I eliminated the mechanical fan from the engine and installed narrower pullys/belt sourced from a 6 cylinder engine altogether these have reduced the power lost through the (mostly ineffective) cast alloy fan and reduced engine vibration.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com><mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 6, 2019 4:06 PM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net><mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator shovel

Hard to quantify, or even confirm, the impact of the oil cooler itself, but
I would say yes, a little.  Starting at about 10 degrees lower gives me more
headroom.  The added volume of oil allows for, I am assuming, a bit more
dissipation of heat as well.  That said, I still do all I can to avoid
freeway congestion when it is above 90; I prefer to use surface streets
where I can vary my route and at least have some recover between stoplights.
I also find that when stopped, running at about 1700-1800 rpm moves a lot
more air (I have a 6-blade tropical fan) which helps buy me more time.  Or I
avoid driving altogether under those conditions, as they are not much fun on
the driver either!

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 9:44 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator shovel

Does the oil cooler help in So Cal stop-and-go (and stop again) traffic/red
lights?

On 11/5/2019 8:57 AM, Bruce Steele wrote:
> I bought mine from Chris Gallagher (studio at chrisgallagher.ca<mailto:studio at chrisgallagher.ca>).  I also
> installed the Moss oil cooler kit.  Combined, I achieved about a 10
> degree drop in indicated temp, helpful in So Cal summers.
>
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
>

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From gmolony1 at bigpond.com  Fri Nov  8 16:58:46 2019
From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony)
Date: Sat, 9 Nov 2019 10:58:46 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Spruce Green
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJCB+6H7PYnqgoznBrRZd4RVMAbjACmSrE8iJSB9isjiQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LJCB+6H7PYnqgoznBrRZd4RVMAbjACmSrE8iJSB9isjiQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <84E9A83E41DC412998D67C0B8B64B0E7@msiallinone>

Michael

Contact Tom Kovacs at Fourintune Healey restorations at fourintune.com he has done a number of cars over the years in the Spruce green colour

Graeme J Molony


 

From: Michael Salter 
Sent: Saturday, November 9, 2019 2:00 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] Spruce Green

Does anyone out there have a current code for Spruce Green.
Any guidance would be appreciated.

M



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Nov 10 05:38:43 2019
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 12:38:43 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
Message-ID: <000001d597c3$cb30af40$61920dc0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Hi Experts,

I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.

I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price.
It is Positive earth.

I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
That's all very well..goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.

Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!

Simon

 

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From bighealey3k at aim.com  Sun Nov 10 08:02:28 2019
From: bighealey3k at aim.com (Larry Wendland)
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 15:02:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>

Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated. 
Larry '67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe



Hi Experts,
I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price. It is Positive earth.
I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
Simon
 ?

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Nov 10 08:38:02 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 16:38:02 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <000001d597c3$cb30af40$61920dc0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d597c3$cb30af40$61920dc0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <95786f35-baf3-71e2-d4dc-fdc71e9651d0@chello.nl>

There is no such thing as a positive or negative Kenlowe. It has two 
wires, probably red and black. Most likely the red wire should be 
connected to the positive feed, black to earth. Use a thermoswitch 
controlled relay to switch the fan on and of.

Check if the fan is rotating the correct way. if not change over the two 
wires.

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 10-11-2019 om 13:38 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com:
>
> Hi Experts,
>
> I have a 3000. It is *_Negative earth_*.
>
> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good 
> price. It is *_Positive earth_*.
>
> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other 
> way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, 
> be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
>
> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Nov 10 12:15:42 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 11:15:42 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] bearing noise
Message-ID: <CABXhz89y=Ah8GxmmmeArrWWkAkwqi30fZmB=Ao3RAhP3jRyjvg@mail.gmail.com>

New issue. I have a Smitty 5 speed kit in my car. I noticed yesterday, that
randomly when I was stopped at a red light with the car out of gear I would
sometimes hear the TO bearing spinning. It did not happen every time, just
once in awhile. What would cause it to be an on and off situation?
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Nov 10 13:34:49 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 21:34:49 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] bearing noise
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89y=Ah8GxmmmeArrWWkAkwqi30fZmB=Ao3RAhP3jRyjvg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz89y=Ah8GxmmmeArrWWkAkwqi30fZmB=Ao3RAhP3jRyjvg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5615ea68-a2ce-afcb-e46c-bee1d013f3fb@chello.nl>

Clutch adjustment or return spring?

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 10-11-2019 om 20:15 schreef i erbs:
> New issue. I have a Smitty 5 speed kit in my car. I noticed yesterday, 
> that randomly when I was stopped at a red light with the car out of 
> gear I would sometimes hear the TO bearing spinning. It did not happen 
> every time, just once in awhile. What would cause it to be an on and 
> off situation?
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB MG
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Nov 10 13:56:15 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 12:56:15 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] bearing noise
In-Reply-To: <5615ea68-a2ce-afcb-e46c-bee1d013f3fb@chello.nl>
References: <CABXhz89y=Ah8GxmmmeArrWWkAkwqi30fZmB=Ao3RAhP3jRyjvg@mail.gmail.com>
 <5615ea68-a2ce-afcb-e46c-bee1d013f3fb@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88gjxhQYfitbGzBLxkA7k=u++PKE1hjL7XySCTzRf8AWA@mail.gmail.com>

how do I adjust a hydraulic clutch?
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 12:35 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
wrote:

> Clutch adjustment or return spring?
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 10-11-2019 om 20:15 schreef i erbs:
>
> New issue. I have a Smitty 5 speed kit in my car. I noticed yesterday,
> that randomly when I was stopped at a red light with the car out of gear I
> would sometimes hear the TO bearing spinning. It did not happen every time,
> just once in awhile. What would cause it to be an on and off situation?
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
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>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Nov 10 14:30:03 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 10 Nov 2019 22:30:03 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] bearing noise
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88gjxhQYfitbGzBLxkA7k=u++PKE1hjL7XySCTzRf8AWA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz89y=Ah8GxmmmeArrWWkAkwqi30fZmB=Ao3RAhP3jRyjvg@mail.gmail.com>
 <5615ea68-a2ce-afcb-e46c-bee1d013f3fb@chello.nl>
 <CABXhz88gjxhQYfitbGzBLxkA7k=u++PKE1hjL7XySCTzRf8AWA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <312f94d2-db48-3035-ef9f-68b4c984712b@chello.nl>


I sounds like the bearing is touching the pressure plate because there 
may be no free play in the pedal.

Usually one can adjust the slave cylinder by shimming. Sometimes by 
clamping.

Other causes could be wear in the pivots/bushings of the clutch arm or a 
hydraulic leak/problem.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 10-11-2019 om 21:56 schreef i erbs:
> how do I adjust a hydraulic clutch?
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB MG
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 12:35 PM Kees Oudesluijs 
> <coudesluijs at chello.nl <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
>
>     Clutch adjustment or return spring?
>
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>     Op 10-11-2019 om 20:15 schreef i erbs:
>>     New issue. I have a Smitty 5 speed kit in my car. I noticed
>>     yesterday, that randomly when I was stopped at a red light with
>>     the car out of gear I would sometimes hear the TO bearing
>>     spinning. It did not happen every time, just once in awhile. What
>>     would cause it to be an on and off situation?
>>     Ira Erbs
>>     Portland,OR
>>     ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
>>     ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>>     (_________________________)
>>     ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes
>>
>>
>>     1967 MGB MG
>>
>>     A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>>     Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
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>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Nov 11 07:14:40 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 09:14:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Cap Wire Attachment 6 Cyl
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLeHkFZCc2ps_Ui63-1FuD-jN20TpOoCZ=HxxuZLCN28w@mail.gmail.com>

Another of the thousands of details that we are trying to detail in the
Concours Guidelines is how the oil filler cap wire for the 6 cylinder
engines was secured to the filler neck on the rocker cover.
We have identified these 2 styles but are fairly sure that there is at
least one other.
[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]

If your 6 cylinder engine has a type other than the 2 above I would like to
hear from you.

M
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Mon Nov 11 08:35:06 2019
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 10:35:06 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit
Message-ID: <01ae01d598a5$9899cde0$c9cd69a0$@gmail.com>

Listeners, please advise the orientation of the fuel sending unit float.  To
front or rear?

 

Thanks, 

 

Bob Begani

67 BJ8

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From engl at accesscomm.ca  Mon Nov 11 08:49:12 2019
From: engl at accesscomm.ca (Bob England)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 09:49:12 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit
In-Reply-To: <01ae01d598a5$9899cde0$c9cd69a0$@gmail.com>
References: <01ae01d598a5$9899cde0$c9cd69a0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002d01d598a7$90ef7430$b2ce5c90$@ca>

Bob

 

I believe the float is forward of the sending unit so it fits down into the
sump properly as the tank empties.  Others may correct me if I am in error
on this.

 

BobE

65BJ8

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert
Begani
Sent: November 11, 2019 9:35 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit

 

Listeners, please advise the orientation of the fuel sending unit float.  To
front or rear?

 

Thanks, 

 

Bob Begani

67 BJ8

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From douglas.barker at videotron.ca  Mon Nov 11 09:24:38 2019
From: douglas.barker at videotron.ca (Douglas Barker)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 16:24:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit
In-Reply-To: <UBwZiB5sbnHNEUBwaidcNh@videotron.ca>
References: <01ae01d598a5$9899cde0$c9cd69a0$@gmail.com>
 <UBwZiB5sbnHNEUBwaidcNh@videotron.ca>
Message-ID: <A2BF7E3B2C8ED9CA.ddc53caf-00e9-4ba8-b3e5-f88e7e686186@mail.outlook.com>

Front or rear or forward. Can you be more specific. What does forward mean in this case?




Get Outlook for Android







On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 10:49 AM -0500, "Bob England" <engl at accesscomm.ca> wrote:












Bob

?

I believe the float is forward of the sending unit so it fits down into the sump properly as the tank empties.? Others may correct me if I am in error on this.

?

BobE

65BJ8

?

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Begani
Sent: November 11, 2019 9:35 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit

?

Listeners, please advise the orientation of the fuel sending unit float.? To front or rear?

?

Thanks, 

?

Bob Begani

67 BJ8




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From ronfineesq at earthlink.net  Mon Nov 11 09:54:53 2019
From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 08:54:53 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit
In-Reply-To: <01ae01d598a5$9899cde0$c9cd69a0$@gmail.com>
References: <01ae01d598a5$9899cde0$c9cd69a0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A0BDEA035CFB4AC8A444F5BC7B1178DD@Inspiron660>

The float is closer to the front of the car.  The sending unit is toward the rear of the car.

Ron

From: Robert Begani 
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 7:35 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit

Listeners, please advise the orientation of the fuel sending unit float.  To front or rear?

 

Thanks, 

 

Bob Begani

67 BJ8



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Nov 11 10:55:24 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 12:55:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit
In-Reply-To: <01ae01d598a5$9899cde0$c9cd69a0$@gmail.com>
References: <01ae01d598a5$9899cde0$c9cd69a0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.20.1573494931.2919.healeys@autox.team.net>

Interesting.  It would make sense that the float would be oriented so that its over the deeper section of the gas tank sump but the sump has a very small capacity, about a third of a gallon.  Also with the geometry of the float drop and swing compared to the mounting flange in the top of the tank, it would appear that the float never gets to the deepest part of the sump anyway before hitting the bottom of the tank. At that point the sender will tell the gauge that the tank is empty. 
No conclusion to this issue but had fun looking into stinky old tanks this morning. 
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Robert Begani
Subject: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit
Listeners, please advise the orientation of the fuel sending unit float.? To front or rear?
Thanks, 
Bob Begani
67 BJ8

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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Mon Nov 11 11:56:00 2019
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 18:56:00 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Behind the scenes, Ford v Ferrari
Message-ID: <7018d49d-92fa-4d10-b10e-1edb8c4bd08c@me.com>

Hagerty sent this link out today. Short article and two videos. The first video is mainly shots of folks getting ready for movie takes. Little audio, but interesting to see the different camera angles. The second video is more car oriented. Showing the set ups they used to get the shots of the racers, "racing", stuff like that. But in that video there is a shot I have never seen before and it's worth the watch, a Ferrari being shot out of a cannon! It's way cool and makes me want to see the movie even more. Enjoy!
Steven Kingsbury


https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2019/11/07/behind-the-scenes-ford-v-ferrari-with-matt-damon-and-christian-bale?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Daily_News_Monday_Nov_11?




?
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From manifold at telus.net  Mon Nov 11 12:47:49 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 11:47:49 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
Message-ID: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>

Help,
 
Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
is fine and I just need the insulation material.
 
Thanks.... Harold
1960 BT7
 
 
 
 
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Mon Nov 11 13:19:08 2019
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 15:19:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Behind the scenes, Ford v Ferrari
In-Reply-To: <7018d49d-92fa-4d10-b10e-1edb8c4bd08c@me.com>
References: <7018d49d-92fa-4d10-b10e-1edb8c4bd08c@me.com>
Message-ID: <00b801d598cd$4666d680$d3348380$@sympatico.ca>

I have not looked at the video yet, but that I recall seeing a picture of them shooting a replica BRM F1 car from a cannon for the crash scene at Monaco for the filming of Grand Prix, back in the 60s.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys
Sent: November-11-19 1:56 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Behind the scenes, Ford v Ferrari

 

Hagerty sent this link out today. Short article and two videos. The first video is mainly shots of folks getting ready for movie takes. Little audio, but interesting to see the different camera angles. The second video is more car oriented. Showing the set ups they used to get the shots of the racers, "racing", stuff like that. But in that video there is a shot I have never seen before and it's worth the watch, a Ferrari being shot out of a cannon! It's way cool and makes me want to see the movie even more. Enjoy!

Steven Kingsbury

 

https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2019/11/07/behind-the-scenes-ford-v-ferrari-with-matt-damon-and-christian-bale?utm_source=SFMC <https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2019/11/07/behind-the-scenes-ford-v-ferrari-with-matt-damon-and-christian-bale?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Daily_News_Monday_Nov_11> &utm_medium=email&utm_content=Daily_News_Monday_Nov_11 

 

 

 

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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Mon Nov 11 13:59:18 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 12:59:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
In-Reply-To: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>
References: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <2ecc01d598d2$e4267f60$ac737e20$@roadrunner.com>

Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
quality reproduction that fit well.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
Manifold
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
To: 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

 

Help,

 

Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
is fine and I just need the insulation material.

 

Thanks.... Harold

1960 BT7

 

 

 

 

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From manifold at telus.net  Mon Nov 11 14:16:39 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 13:16:39 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
In-Reply-To: <2ecc01d598d2$e4267f60$ac737e20$@roadrunner.com>
References: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>
 <2ecc01d598d2$e4267f60$ac737e20$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <01B0355B4F6D4DC0B0BF7D8A56F9BC41@AllInOne>

I looked at the Moss kit but it isn't available anymore. Was the Moss heat
shield made from Hardi Board?
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] 
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 12:59 PM
To: 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1



Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
quality reproduction that fit well.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
Manifold
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
To: 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

 

Help,

 

Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
is fine and I just need the insulation material.

 

Thanks.... Harold

1960 BT7

 

 

 

 

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From eps2660 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 11 15:03:35 2019
From: eps2660 at gmail.com (Elton S)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 17:03:35 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
In-Reply-To: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>
References: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CAFKLAdg-5vbXmkrZ1HVhqs9Z=0hom_C_AkLQppNFirsjcB2_9g@mail.gmail.com>

Hardy cement backerboard you can get at Home Depot or Lowe's
Elton


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 3:09 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

> Help,
>
> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
> won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
> is fine and I just need the insulation material.
>
> Thanks.... Harold
> 1960 BT7
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Nov 11 17:48:43 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 00:48:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe

Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
Larry '67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe



Hi Experts,
I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price. It is Positive earth.
I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
Simon


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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Nov 11 18:36:45 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 20:36:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLHEO4zfu_At6tHN9DE=yWSF7nbfB5AWs8v4PGX7J_4Qg@mail.gmail.com>

*For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and
turn it around on the shaft *
You are kidding right?

M

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is
> danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That
> being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed
> by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the
> fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer
> fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry
> Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>;
> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can
> wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to
> see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to
> the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
> Larry '67 BJ8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
>
>
> Hi Experts,
> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price.
> It is Positive earth.
> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
> That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Nov 11 19:17:23 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 02:17:23 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
In-Reply-To: <CAFKLAdg-5vbXmkrZ1HVhqs9Z=0hom_C_AkLQppNFirsjcB2_9g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>,
 <CAFKLAdg-5vbXmkrZ1HVhqs9Z=0hom_C_AkLQppNFirsjcB2_9g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB343232F58DC66C36E39F38AFA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

If  I were doing this I think I would just put an extra layer of aluminum sheet in place of the asbestos with some backer board discs to offset it maybe 5/16". Then find a way to direct some air flow between the plates. What you are doing is interrupting the transmission of radiant energy from the manifold. A single layer of sheetmetal will stop 90% of radiant energy directed at it and convert it to heat. The second layer will stop 90% radiated from the first sheet. Air flow between the sheets will remove heat from the assembly through convection. I think that if the heat shield were designed so that there was no line of sight from the manifold to the carburetors you would nearly eliminate most carb heating problems. The exception would be when the hot engine is stopped and there is no air flow at which time the entire engine bay becomes soaked with heat.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Elton S <eps2660 at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 10:03 PM
To: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

Hardy cement backerboard you can get at Home Depot or Lowe's
Elton


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 3:09 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net<mailto:manifold at telus.net>> wrote:
Help,

Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part is fine and I just need the insulation material.

Thanks.... Harold
1960 BT7




_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Nov 11 19:54:07 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 21:54:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR07MB343232F58DC66C36E39F38AFA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>,
 <CAFKLAdg-5vbXmkrZ1HVhqs9Z=0hom_C_AkLQppNFirsjcB2_9g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR07MB343232F58DC66C36E39F38AFA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.21.1573527253.2919.healeys@autox.team.net>

Bill
Great recommendation. I have seen the air gap type of heat shield on other applications that seem to work well.
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE

If ?I were doing this I think I would just put an extra layer of aluminum sheet in place of the asbestos with some backer board discs to offset it maybe 5/16". Then find a way to direct some air flow between the plates. What you are doing is interrupting the transmission of radiant energy from the manifold. A single layer of sheetmetal will stop 90% of radiant energy directed at it and convert it to heat. The second layer will stop 90% radiated from the first sheet. Air flow between the sheets will remove heat from the assembly through convection. I think that if the heat shield were designed so that there was no line of sight from the manifold to the carburetors you would nearly eliminate most carb heating problems. The exception would be when the hot engine is stopped and there is no air flow at which time the entire engine bay becomes soaked with heat.

Bill Lawrence
Elton


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 3:09 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:
Help,
?
Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons.?The metal part is fine and I just need the insulation material.
?
Thanks.... Harold
1960 BT7
?
?
?
?

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Nov 11 19:54:07 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 21:54:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR07MB343232F58DC66C36E39F38AFA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>,
 <CAFKLAdg-5vbXmkrZ1HVhqs9Z=0hom_C_AkLQppNFirsjcB2_9g@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR07MB343232F58DC66C36E39F38AFA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.22.1573527253.2919.healeys@autox.team.net>

Bill
Great recommendation. I have seen the air gap type of heat shield on other applications that seem to work well.
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE

If ?I were doing this I think I would just put an extra layer of aluminum sheet in place of the asbestos with some backer board discs to offset it maybe 5/16". Then find a way to direct some air flow between the plates. What you are doing is interrupting the transmission of radiant energy from the manifold. A single layer of sheetmetal will stop 90% of radiant energy directed at it and convert it to heat. The second layer will stop 90% radiated from the first sheet. Air flow between the sheets will remove heat from the assembly through convection. I think that if the heat shield were designed so that there was no line of sight from the manifold to the carburetors you would nearly eliminate most carb heating problems. The exception would be when the hot engine is stopped and there is no air flow at which time the entire engine bay becomes soaked with heat.

Bill Lawrence
Elton


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 3:09 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:
Help,
?
Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons.?The metal part is fine and I just need the insulation material.
?
Thanks.... Harold
1960 BT7
?
?
?
?

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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Nov 11 19:56:04 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 02:56:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLHEO4zfu_At6tHN9DE=yWSF7nbfB5AWs8v4PGX7J_4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAB3i7LLHEO4zfu_At6tHN9DE=yWSF7nbfB5AWs8v4PGX7J_4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB3432AA9A1950539FCAAF69B6A5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Absolutely not. The blades are designed to provide highest efficiency when turning in one direction with relation to the air flow. The blades are airfoils and use Bernoulli's principles to move air and build static pressure. An aircraft wing doesn't produce much lift if it is flying backwards. You can still move air if the blade is turning in the wrong direction, but it won't be nearly as efficient.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #544
________________________________
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 1:36 AM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe

For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft
You are kidding right?

M

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com<mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>; healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe

Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
Larry '67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe



Hi Experts,
I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price. It is Positive earth.
I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
Simon


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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Nov 11 20:31:50 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 22:31:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR07MB3432AA9A1950539FCAAF69B6A5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLHEO4zfu_At6tHN9DE=yWSF7nbfB5AWs8v4PGX7J_4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432AA9A1950539FCAAF69B6A5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKO_dxYF6v5aVcN3L8FLXpiydDDioUgx2UW7dubxywGDQ@mail.gmail.com>

So just to be clear ...

You have fan, you take the blade assembly off the shaft, flip the blade
assembly over and reinstall it onto the shaft and then, when the fan blades
are driven in the same direction of rotation direction as previously the
air movement will be reversed?

The miracles of modern science.

M


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 9:56 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

> Absolutely not. The blades are designed to provide highest efficiency when
> turning in one direction with relation to the air flow. The blades are
> airfoils and use Bernoulli's principles to move air and build static
> pressure. An aircraft wing doesn't produce much lift if it is flying
> backwards. You can still move air if the blade is turning in the wrong
> direction, but it won't be nearly as efficient.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #544
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 12, 2019 1:36 AM
> *To:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>;
> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
> *For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and
> turn it around on the shaft *
> You are kidding right?
>
> M
>
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
>
> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is
> danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That
> being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed
> by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the
> fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer
> fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry
> Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>;
> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can
> wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to
> see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to
> the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
> Larry '67 BJ8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
>
>
> Hi Experts,
> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price.
> It is Positive earth.
> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
> That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Nov 11 21:09:05 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 20:09:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKO_dxYF6v5aVcN3L8FLXpiydDDioUgx2UW7dubxywGDQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLHEO4zfu_At6tHN9DE=yWSF7nbfB5AWs8v4PGX7J_4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432AA9A1950539FCAAF69B6A5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LKO_dxYF6v5aVcN3L8FLXpiydDDioUgx2UW7dubxywGDQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89Yf8V55XMRV8nbmyiE90BbqE_Grevi994rnc1ph9JTWA@mail.gmail.com>

I bought an aeroline fan with some pretty cool looking blades and the
instructions say reverse the wire if it's to be used as a pusher fan. Do
not touch the fan blades. I bought one similar to this-
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aeroline-Electric-Radiator-Cooling-Universal/dp/B01E7E4WO4
.
Will install with a thermostat and manual switch over the winter.
Cheers
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 7:33 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> So just to be clear ...
>
> You have fan, you take the blade assembly off the shaft, flip the blade
> assembly over and reinstall it onto the shaft and then, when the fan blades
> are driven in the same direction of rotation direction as previously the
> air movement will be reversed?
>
> The miracles of modern science.
>
> M
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 9:56 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Absolutely not. The blades are designed to provide highest efficiency
>> when turning in one direction with relation to the air flow. The blades are
>> airfoils and use Bernoulli's principles to move air and build static
>> pressure. An aircraft wing doesn't produce much lift if it is flying
>> backwards. You can still move air if the blade is turning in the wrong
>> direction, but it won't be nearly as efficient.
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 #544
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 12, 2019 1:36 AM
>> *To:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>;
>> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>>
>> *For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and
>> turn it around on the shaft *
>> You are kidding right?
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is
>> danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That
>> being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed
>> by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the
>> fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer
>> fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 #554
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry
>> Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <
>> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <
>> healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>>
>> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can
>> wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to
>> see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to
>> the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
>> Larry '67 BJ8
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
>> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Experts,
>> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
>> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good
>> price. It is Positive earth.
>> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
>> That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
>> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
>> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>> Simon
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Mon Nov 11 22:58:09 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 21:58:09 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
In-Reply-To: <01B0355B4F6D4DC0B0BF7D8A56F9BC41@AllInOne>
References: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>
 <2ecc01d598d2$e4267f60$ac737e20$@roadrunner.com>
 <01B0355B4F6D4DC0B0BF7D8A56F9BC41@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <2f4401d5991e$2b2a9fe0$817fdfa0$@roadrunner.com>

I did not know that it was no longer available.  It was made from some form
of cement board.  I'm sure it is not as effective as the original asbestos
sheets.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Harold Manifold [mailto:manifold at telus.net] 
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 1:17 PM
To: 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; 'Ahealey help'
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

 

I looked at the Moss kit but it isn't available anymore. Was the Moss heat
shield made from Hardi Board?

 

Harold

 

  _____  

From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] 
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 12:59 PM
To: 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
quality reproduction that fit well.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
Manifold
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
To: 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

 

Help,

 

Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
is fine and I just need the insulation material.

 

Thanks.... Harold

1960 BT7

 

 

 

 

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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Mon Nov 11 23:09:11 2019
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 17:09:11 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
In-Reply-To: <2f4401d5991e$2b2a9fe0$817fdfa0$@roadrunner.com>
References: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>
 <2ecc01d598d2$e4267f60$ac737e20$@roadrunner.com>
 <01B0355B4F6D4DC0B0BF7D8A56F9BC41@AllInOne>
 <2f4401d5991e$2b2a9fe0$817fdfa0$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <017b01d5991f$b5de2c50$219a84f0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

The heat shields are available from AH Spares in the UK for ?37.75.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Sydney, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce
Steele
Sent: Tuesday, 12 November 2019 4:58 PM
To: 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

 

I did not know that it was no longer available.  It was made from some form
of cement board.  I?m sure it is not as effective as the original asbestos
sheets.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Harold Manifold [mailto:manifold at telus.net] 
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 1:17 PM
To: 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; 'Ahealey help'
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

 

I looked at the Moss kit but it isn't available anymore. Was the Moss heat
shield made from Hardi Board?

 

Harold

 

  _____  

From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] 
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 12:59 PM
To: 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
quality reproduction that fit well.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
Manifold
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
To: 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

 

Help,

 

Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
is fine and I just need the insulation material.

 

Thanks.... Harold

1960 BT7

 

 

 

 

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From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 11 23:32:33 2019
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 06:32:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKO_dxYF6v5aVcN3L8FLXpiydDDioUgx2UW7dubxywGDQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLHEO4zfu_At6tHN9DE=yWSF7nbfB5AWs8v4PGX7J_4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432AA9A1950539FCAAF69B6A5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LKO_dxYF6v5aVcN3L8FLXpiydDDioUgx2UW7dubxywGDQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1348484529.1912588.1573540353347@mail.yahoo.com>

 If you look 'closely' at these plastic fans, you can see a concave side and a convex side on the fan blades...It really IS an airfoil? and no just mechanically swapping the fan around won't change the blow/suck direction
Jim

    On Tuesday, November 12, 2019, 3:32:53 AM UTC, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 So just to be clear ...? 

You have fan, you take the blade assembly off the shaft, flip the blade assembly over and reinstall it onto the shaft and then, when the fan blades are driven in the same direction of rotation direction as previously the air movement will be reversed?
The miracles of modern science.
M


On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 9:56 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

Absolutely not. The blades are designed to provide highest efficiency when turning in one direction with relation to the air flow. The blades are airfoils and use Bernoulli's principles to move air and build static pressure. An aircraft wing doesn't produce much lift if it is flying backwards. You can still move air if the blade is turning in the wrong direction, but it won't be nearly as efficient.
Bill LawrenceBN1 #544From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 1:36 AM
To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe?For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft?You are kidding right?
M
On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:

I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer fans use a ?backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>;healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe?Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.? You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated. 
Larry '67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe



Hi Experts,
I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price. It is Positive earth.
I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
Simon
??

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 11 23:38:28 2019
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 22:38:28 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
In-Reply-To: <2f4401d5991e$2b2a9fe0$817fdfa0$@roadrunner.com>
References: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>
 <2ecc01d598d2$e4267f60$ac737e20$@roadrunner.com>
 <01B0355B4F6D4DC0B0BF7D8A56F9BC41@AllInOne>
 <2f4401d5991e$2b2a9fe0$817fdfa0$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <001101d59923$cb642260$622c6720$@sbcglobal.net>

Asbestos is not a great insulator as people might think. Once it heats up,
it stays hot. The shields can be restored it they are in good shape. They
can be painted with a high temperature white paint that is available at auto
parts stores. Asbestos is a danger only if it is friable (emitting dust).
Painting the heat shields encapsulates the asbestos. This is a common
remedial method that is used in construction when asbestos is found and not
abated.

 

John Spaur

'62 BT7 with original heat shields.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce
Steele
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 9:58 PM
To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>; 'Ahealey help'
<healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

 

I did not know that it was no longer available.  It was made from some form
of cement board.  I'm sure it is not as effective as the original asbestos
sheets.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Harold Manifold [mailto:manifold at telus.net] 
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 1:17 PM
To: 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com
<mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> >; 'Ahealey help'
<healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

 

I looked at the Moss kit but it isn't available anymore. Was the Moss heat
shield made from Hardi Board?

 

Harold

 

  _____  

From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] 
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 12:59 PM
To: 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
quality reproduction that fit well.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
Manifold
Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
To: 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1

 

Help,

 

Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
is fine and I just need the insulation material.

 

Thanks.... Harold

1960 BT7

 

 

 

 

-------------- next part --------------
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Nov 12 01:51:46 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 09:51:46 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLHEO4zfu_At6tHN9DE=yWSF7nbfB5AWs8v4PGX7J_4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLHEO4zfu_At6tHN9DE=yWSF7nbfB5AWs8v4PGX7J_4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ae2e4fe3-2239-5f02-1c4c-087bbb94549e@chello.nl>

Bill is right. just switching over the wires reverses the direction the 
fan turns, but that will leave the curvature of the blade facing the 
wrong way so you also have to turn it around if the design allows it.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 12-11-2019 om 02:36 schreef Michael Salter:
> /*For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly 
> and turn it around on the shaft */
> You are kidding right?
>
> M
>
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com 
> <mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
>
>     I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize
>     there is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much
>     the same. That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of
>     the fan can be reversed by switching the wires. For best results
>     you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it
>     around on the shaft since most of the newer fans use a ?backward
>     curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
>
>     Bill Lawrence
>     BN1 #554
>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Larry
>     Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
>     *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>     <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>     <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>     <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>;
>     healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>     Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.?
>     You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a
>     volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing.
>     If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing.
>     Should be no issue if it is isolated.
>     Larry '67 BJ8
>
>
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>     <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>
>     To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
>     Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
>
>
>     Hi Experts,
>     I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
>     I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very
>     good price. It is Positive earth.
>     I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other
>     way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in
>     effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
>     Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>     Simon
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>
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>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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> _______________________________________________
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>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Nov 12 03:39:08 2019
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 10:39:08 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <004501d59945$6aa4dc40$3fee94c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

This is one of two topics raised in my original post. See:-

"I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
That's all very well..goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
the air rather than pushing. Which is useless. Is there a solution?" 

Looking at the photos, it seemed to me that the blades had a particular
shape and that it was not symmetrical one side to the other. So I sort of
assumed that reversing the direction would not be the whole solution. 

Whilst I should like to be sure of this before I commit to a fan, it does
seem that the blades have that very particular design for a reason.

Of course, when/if I buy the fan, it may not be physically possible to
reverse the blades! 

Keep it coming!

Simon



 

 

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> 
Sent: 12 November 2019 00:49
To: Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>;
simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe

 

I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is
danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That
being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed
by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the fan
blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer fans
use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.

 

Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Larry Wendland via
Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
<simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> >; healeys at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  <healeys at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe 

 

Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can wire
it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see
if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the
fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated. 
Larry '67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> >
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe



Hi Experts,
I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price.
It is Positive earth.
I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
That's all very well..goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!



 

Simon
  

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Nov 12 05:06:56 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 04:06:56 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <ae2e4fe3-2239-5f02-1c4c-087bbb94549e@chello.nl>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAB3i7LLHEO4zfu_At6tHN9DE=yWSF7nbfB5AWs8v4PGX7J_4Qg@mail.gmail.com>
 <ae2e4fe3-2239-5f02-1c4c-087bbb94549e@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-SbLawv2-_2i8RAQLVKtKLZAJ6sTPar9==36CXfxkmWg@mail.gmail.com>

The product I bought instructs you to not touch the fan, just reverse the
wires...

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Tue, Nov 12, 2019, 12:52 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
wrote:

> Bill is right. just switching over the wires reverses the direction the
> fan turns, but that will leave the curvature of the blade facing the wrong
> way so you also have to turn it around if the design allows it.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 12-11-2019 om 02:36 schreef Michael Salter:
>
> *For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and
> turn it around on the shaft *
> You are kidding right?
>
> M
>
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
>
>> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is
>> danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That
>> being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed
>> by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the
>> fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer
>> fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 #554
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry
>> Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <
>> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <
>> healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>>
>> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can
>> wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to
>> see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to
>> the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
>> Larry '67 BJ8
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
>> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Experts,
>> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
>> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good
>> price. It is Positive earth.
>> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
>> That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
>> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
>> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>> Simon
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Nov 12 05:35:42 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 07:35:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
In-Reply-To: <01B0355B4F6D4DC0B0BF7D8A56F9BC41@AllInOne>
References: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>
 <2ecc01d598d2$e4267f60$ac737e20$@roadrunner.com>
 <01B0355B4F6D4DC0B0BF7D8A56F9BC41@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJnSQgKXzYnJDNUo+K6Xu0PxXECqZOSojR=m4WodpES5Q@mail.gmail.com>

I believe that I still have several that were water jet cut using originals
as patterns.

M

On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 4:16 PM Harold Manifold, <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

> I looked at the Moss kit but it isn't available anymore. Was the Moss heat
> shield made from Hardi Board?
>
> Harold
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, November 11, 2019 12:59 PM
> *To:* 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
>
> Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
> shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
> last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
> quality reproduction that fit well.
>
>
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Harold
> Manifold
> *Sent:* Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
> *To:* 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
>
>
>
> Help,
>
>
>
> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
> won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
> is fine and I just need the insulation material.
>
>
>
> Thanks.... Harold
>
> 1960 BT7
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Nov 12 06:26:07 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 08:26:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <004501d59945$6aa4dc40$3fee94c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <004501d59945$6aa4dc40$3fee94c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.23.1573565174.2919.healeys@autox.team.net>

Just took a new Flex-A-Lite 12 inch Model 111 electric fan off the shelf in the garage to see how Flex A Lite handles the flan blade issue.  It uses the ?curved? blade design. They have different model numbers for pusher and puller applications. 
 However there is a  video on their web site that talks about removing and reversing the fan blade on a ?straight? blade fan to convert from pusher to puller. In the video it mentions, along with flipping the blade, that the polarity is switched also.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=flex+a+lite+how+to+convert+pusher+to+puller&docid=608054440764244813&mid=BAFA7064871FDDED725FBAFA7064871FDDED725F&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 5:39 AM
To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'; 'Larry Wendland via Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe

This is one of two topics raised in my original post. See:-
?I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless. Is there a solution?? 
Looking at the photos, it seemed to me that the blades had a particular shape and that it was not symmetrical one side to the other. So I sort of assumed that reversing the direction would not be the whole solution. 
Whilst I should like to be sure of this before I commit to a fan, it does seem that the blades have that very particular design for a reason.
Of course, when/if I buy the fan, it may not be physically possible to reverse the blades! 
Keep it coming!
Simon


From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> 
Sent: 12 November 2019 00:49
To: Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe

I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer fans use a ?backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe 
?
Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.? You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated. 
Larry '67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe



Hi Experts,
I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price. It is Positive earth.
I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!

Simon
??

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Nov 12 06:26:07 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 08:26:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <004501d59945$6aa4dc40$3fee94c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <004501d59945$6aa4dc40$3fee94c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.24.1573565174.2919.healeys@autox.team.net>

Just took a new Flex-A-Lite 12 inch Model 111 electric fan off the shelf in the garage to see how Flex A Lite handles the flan blade issue.  It uses the ?curved? blade design. They have different model numbers for pusher and puller applications. 
 However there is a  video on their web site that talks about removing and reversing the fan blade on a ?straight? blade fan to convert from pusher to puller. In the video it mentions, along with flipping the blade, that the polarity is switched also.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=flex+a+lite+how+to+convert+pusher+to+puller&docid=608054440764244813&mid=BAFA7064871FDDED725FBAFA7064871FDDED725F&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 5:39 AM
To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'; 'Larry Wendland via Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe

This is one of two topics raised in my original post. See:-
?I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless. Is there a solution?? 
Looking at the photos, it seemed to me that the blades had a particular shape and that it was not symmetrical one side to the other. So I sort of assumed that reversing the direction would not be the whole solution. 
Whilst I should like to be sure of this before I commit to a fan, it does seem that the blades have that very particular design for a reason.
Of course, when/if I buy the fan, it may not be physically possible to reverse the blades! 
Keep it coming!
Simon


From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> 
Sent: 12 November 2019 00:49
To: Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe

I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer fans use a ?backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe 
?
Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.? You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated. 
Larry '67 BJ8


-----Original Message-----
From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe



Hi Experts,
I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price. It is Positive earth.
I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!

Simon
??

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Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Nov 12 06:41:24 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 08:41:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <20191112132620.9A7C8A0675@autox.team.net>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <004501d59945$6aa4dc40$3fee94c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <20191112132620.9A7C8A0675@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJXqTFt5R29ajq_iHS3OHn4fQjfgq3AVfiv=wgJM3X5cg@mail.gmail.com>

 "it mentions, along with flipping the blade, that the polarity is switched
also."
Ahh there is the difference ... I you have ever worked with model
aeroplanes you will be well aware that flipping the prop over does not
reverse the direction of airflow, just makes it less efficient.

M


On Tue, Nov 12, 2019 at 8:26 AM Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Just took a new Flex-A-Lite 12 inch Model 111 electric fan off the shelf
> in the garage to see how Flex A Lite handles the flan blade issue.  It uses
> the ?curved? blade design. They have different model numbers for pusher and
> puller applications.
>
>  However there is a  video on their web site that talks about removing and
> reversing the fan blade on a ?straight? blade fan to convert from pusher to
> puller. In the video it mentions, along with flipping the blade, that the
> polarity is switched also.
>
>
>
>
> https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=flex+a+lite+how+to+convert+pusher+to+puller&docid=608054440764244813&mid=BAFA7064871FDDED725FBAFA7064871FDDED725F&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> *Sent: *Tuesday, November 12, 2019 5:39 AM
> *To: *'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' <ynotink at msn.com>; 'Larry Wendland via Healeys'
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
>
>
> This is one of two topics raised in my original post. See:-
>
> ?I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
> That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless. Is there a solution??
>
> Looking at the photos, it seemed to me that the blades had a particular
> shape and that it was not symmetrical one side to the other. So I sort of
> assumed that reversing the direction would not be the whole solution.
>
> Whilst I should like to be sure of this before I commit to a fan, it does
> seem that the blades have that very particular design for a reason.
>
> Of course, when/if I buy the fan, it may not be physically possible to
> reverse the blades!
>
> Keep it coming!
>
> Simon
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> *Sent:* 12 November 2019 00:49
> *To:* Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>;
> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
>
>
> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is
> danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That
> being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed
> by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the
> fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer
> fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
>
>
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> BN1 #554
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry
> Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>;
> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
>
>
> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can
> wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to
> see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to
> the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
> Larry '67 BJ8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
>
>
> Hi Experts,
> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price.
> It is Positive earth.
> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
> That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>
>
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Nov 12 06:50:59 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 14:50:59 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
In-Reply-To: <004501d59945$6aa4dc40$3fee94c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1220292732.2313418.1573398148988@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <004501d59945$6aa4dc40$3fee94c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <72004550-9815-8c52-4e7b-112a7cca05af@chello.nl>

If the fan is a pusher in front of the radiator the hollow side of the 
blades will be towards the radiator, if it is a puller (preferred) 
behind the radiator the hollow side is towards the engine. To make room 
for the puller fan you usually have to remove the fixed fan, depending 
on the design (thickness) of the fan assembly. Direction of rotation can 
be changed by changing over the two wires on the fan. In some cases the 
fan can be reversed on the spindle to make it both puller and pusher.

Fan blades are often not symmetrically distributed on the hub to prevent 
resonances and thus noise.

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 12-11-2019 om 11:39 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com:
>
> This is one of two topics raised in my original post. See:-
>
> ?I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other 
> way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, 
> be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless. Is there a 
> solution??
>
> Looking at the photos, it seemed to me that the blades had a 
> particular shape and that it was not symmetrical one side to the 
> other. So I sort of assumed that reversing the direction would not be 
> the whole solution.
>
> Whilst I should like to be sure of this before I commit to a fan, it 
> does seem that the blades have that very particular design for a reason.
>
> Of course, when/if I buy the fan, it may not be physically possible to 
> reverse the blades!
>
> Keep it coming!
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> *Sent:* 12 November 2019 00:49
> *To:* Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; 
> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there 
> is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. 
> That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can 
> be reversed by switching the wires. For best results you may also want 
> to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since 
> most of the newer fans use a ?backward curved blade design for optimum 
> efficiency.
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> BN1 #554
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Larry Wendland 
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
> <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>; healeys at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.? You 
> can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm 
> meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then 
> the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue 
> if it is isolated.
> Larry '67 BJ8
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>
> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>
>
>
> Hi Experts,
> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good 
> price. It is Positive earth.
> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other 
> way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, 
> be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Nov 12 07:52:45 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 09:52:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Multiple postings
Message-ID: <mailman.25.1573570369.2919.healeys@autox.team.net>

Not sure if my posts are showing up on the list in multiples.  They did on my computer.  Sorry if that is the case. It was not intentional.  
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Tue Nov 12 10:52:28 2019
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 12:52:28 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Multiple postings
In-Reply-To: <20191112145332.BBF0FA086E@autox.team.net>
References: <20191112145332.BBF0FA086E@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZeHHqq0gTh2_B+5s9-z0mgzquEbH-xzpNzpXW0M0gOk7g@mail.gmail.com>

Don't worry.  They're so good I like to read them twice.

Rick Neville

On Tue, Nov 12, 2019 at 9:53 AM Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Not sure if my posts are showing up on the list in multiples.  They did on
> my computer.  Sorry if that is the case. It was not intentional.
>
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From sgerow2 at gmail.com  Tue Nov 12 11:34:59 2019
From: sgerow2 at gmail.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 10:34:59 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit
Message-ID: <CA+myF4op4O_x1d3VYcVKsW3OeLneA2FR5mQ5=iXE=izXgvmNAg@mail.gmail.com>

Forward is correct - the sender needs to descend into the well at the
bottom of the tank. If the sender is toward the rear, the gauge will never
go lower than 1/4 tank because the sender hangs up on the edge of the well.
Folks have run out of gas because of this.

-- 

*Steve Gerow*
BN6
Aldadena, CA
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Nov 12 12:17:43 2019
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 14:17:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Multiple postings
In-Reply-To: <20191112145327.047D2A07AF@autox.team.net>
References: <20191112145327.047D2A07AF@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000001d5998d$dc2d4350$9487c9f0$@gmail.com>

Looks as if all posts are showing up multiple.  Something is going on.

 

Bob Begani

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 9:53 AM
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Multiple postings

 

Not sure if my posts are showing up on the list in multiples.  They did on my computer.  Sorry if that is the case. It was not intentional.  

Perry

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

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From tjmorrio at colby.edu  Tue Nov 12 12:51:27 2019
From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 12:51:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Re carb heat shield
Message-ID: <158FFB94-4D74-4448-A045-A6BC0599FAFD@colby.edu>

Harold et. al.,
I used cement board and think paint is good idea too. I painted it 3 coats with high temp white paint. Soaked right in and I hope might make it easier to clean off if I ever need to. Agree that spacing between metal is great idea. Wish I had done it. But works well as is ? so far. 
Tom 
65 BJ8

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 12, 2019, at 12:00 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
>    healeys at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    healeys-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    healeys-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1 (Harold Manifold)
>   2. Re: Behind the scenes, Ford v Ferrari (Mirek Sharp)
>   3. Re: Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1 (Bruce Steele)
>   4. Re: Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1 (Harold Manifold)
>   5. Re: Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1 (Elton S)
>   6. Re: Kenlowe (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
>   7. Re: Kenlowe (Michael Salter)
>   8. Re: Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1 (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
>   9. Re: Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1 (Perry)
>  10. Re: Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1 (Perry)
>  11. Re: Kenlowe (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
>  12. Re: Kenlowe (Michael Salter)
>  13. Re: Kenlowe (i erbs)
>  14. Re: Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1 (Bruce Steele)
>  15. Re: Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1 (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
>  16. Re: Kenlowe (jim)
>  17. Re: Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1 (John Spaur)
>  18. Re: Kenlowe (Kees Oudesluijs)
>  19. Re: Kenlowe (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
>  20. Re: Kenlowe (i erbs)
>  21. Re: Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1 (Michael Salter)
>  22. Re: Kenlowe (Perry)
>  23. Re: Kenlowe (Perry)
>  24. Re: Kenlowe (Michael Salter)
>  25. Re: Kenlowe (Kees Oudesluijs)
>  26. Multiple postings (Perry)
>  27. Re: Multiple postings (HealeyRick)
>  28. Re: Orientation of the fuel sending unit (Steve Gerow)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 11:47:49 -0800
> From: "Harold Manifold" <manifold at telus.net>
> To: "'Ahealey help'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> Message-ID: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E at AllInOne>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Help,
> 
> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
> won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
> is fine and I just need the insulation material.
> 
> Thanks.... Harold
> 1960 BT7
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 15:19:08 -0500
> From: "Mirek Sharp" <m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca>
> To: "'Steven Kingsbury'" <airtightproductions at icloud.com>, "'Healey
>    Email list'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Behind the scenes, Ford v Ferrari
> Message-ID: <00b801d598cd$4666d680$d3348380$@sympatico.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I have not looked at the video yet, but that I recall seeing a picture of them shooting a replica BRM F1 car from a cannon for the crash scene at Monaco for the filming of Grand Prix, back in the 60s.
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys
> Sent: November-11-19 1:56 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Behind the scenes, Ford v Ferrari
> 
> 
> 
> Hagerty sent this link out today. Short article and two videos. The first video is mainly shots of folks getting ready for movie takes. Little audio, but interesting to see the different camera angles. The second video is more car oriented. Showing the set ups they used to get the shots of the racers, "racing", stuff like that. But in that video there is a shot I have never seen before and it's worth the watch, a Ferrari being shot out of a cannon! It's way cool and makes me want to see the movie even more. Enjoy!
> 
> Steven Kingsbury
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2019/11/07/behind-the-scenes-ford-v-ferrari-with-matt-damon-and-christian-bale?utm_source=SFMC <https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2019/11/07/behind-the-scenes-ford-v-ferrari-with-matt-damon-and-christian-bale?utm_source=SFMC&utm_medium=email&utm_content=Daily_News_Monday_Nov_11> &utm_medium=email&utm_content=Daily_News_Monday_Nov_11 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 12:59:18 -0800
> From: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
> To: "'Harold Manifold'" <manifold at telus.net>, "'Ahealey help'"
>    <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> Message-ID: <2ecc01d598d2$e4267f60$ac737e20$@roadrunner.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
> shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
> last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
> quality reproduction that fit well.
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
> Manifold
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
> To: 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> 
> 
> Help,
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
> won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
> is fine and I just need the insulation material.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.... Harold
> 
> 1960 BT7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20191111/e12345a0/attachment-0001.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 13:16:39 -0800
> From: "Harold Manifold" <manifold at telus.net>
> To: "'Bruce Steele'" <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>, "'Ahealey help'"
>    <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> Message-ID: <01B0355B4F6D4DC0B0BF7D8A56F9BC41 at AllInOne>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I looked at the Moss kit but it isn't available anymore. Was the Moss heat
> shield made from Hardi Board?
> 
> Harold
> 
>  _____  
> 
> From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] 
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 12:59 PM
> To: 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> 
> 
> Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
> shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
> last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
> quality reproduction that fit well.
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
> Manifold
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
> To: 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> 
> 
> Help,
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
> won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
> is fine and I just need the insulation material.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.... Harold
> 
> 1960 BT7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20191111/6d7df250/attachment-0001.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 17:03:35 -0500
> From: Elton S <eps2660 at gmail.com>
> To: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> Message-ID:
>    <CAFKLAdg-5vbXmkrZ1HVhqs9Z=0hom_C_AkLQppNFirsjcB2_9g at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hardy cement backerboard you can get at Home Depot or Lowe's
> Elton
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 3:09 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Help,
>> 
>> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
>> won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
>> is fine and I just need the insulation material.
>> 
>> Thanks.... Harold
>> 1960 BT7
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 00:48:43 +0000
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> To: Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>,
>    "simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com"
>    <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID:
>    <CY4PR07MB3432DB80749C994061E1FD7DA5770 at CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ________________________________
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
> To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
> Larry '67 BJ8
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Experts,
> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price. It is Positive earth.
> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
> Simon
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 20:36:45 -0500
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID:
>    <CAB3i7LLHEO4zfu_At6tHN9DE=yWSF7nbfB5AWs8v4PGX7J_4Qg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> *For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and
> turn it around on the shaft *
> You are kidding right?
> 
> M
> 
>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is
>> danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That
>> being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed
>> by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the
>> fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer
>> fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
>> 
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 #554
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry
>> Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>;
>> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can
>> wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to
>> see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to
>> the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
>> Larry '67 BJ8
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
>> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Hi Experts,
>> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
>> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price.
>> It is Positive earth.
>> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
>> That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
>> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
>> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>> Simon
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20191111/1f556de0/attachment-0001.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 02:17:23 +0000
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> To: Elton S <eps2660 at gmail.com>, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> Message-ID:
>    <CY4PR07MB343232F58DC66C36E39F38AFA5770 at CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> If  I were doing this I think I would just put an extra layer of aluminum sheet in place of the asbestos with some backer board discs to offset it maybe 5/16". Then find a way to direct some air flow between the plates. What you are doing is interrupting the transmission of radiant energy from the manifold. A single layer of sheetmetal will stop 90% of radiant energy directed at it and convert it to heat. The second layer will stop 90% radiated from the first sheet. Air flow between the sheets will remove heat from the assembly through convection. I think that if the heat shield were designed so that there was no line of sight from the manifold to the carburetors you would nearly eliminate most carb heating problems. The exception would be when the hot engine is stopped and there is no air flow at which time the entire engine bay becomes soaked with heat.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ________________________________
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Elton S <eps2660 at gmail.com>
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 10:03 PM
> To: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> Hardy cement backerboard you can get at Home Depot or Lowe's
> Elton
> 
> 
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 3:09 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net<mailto:manifold at telus.net>> wrote:
> Help,
> 
> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part is fine and I just need the insulation material.
> 
> Thanks.... Harold
> 1960 BT7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20191112/44d6e36b/attachment-0001.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 21:54:07 -0500
> From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
> To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>, Elton S <eps2660 at gmail.com>,
>    Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> Message-ID: <mailman.6.1573585201.6907.healeys at autox.team.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Bill
> Great recommendation. I have seen the air gap type of heat shield on other applications that seem to work well.
> Perry
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
> 
> If ?I were doing this I think I would just put an extra layer of aluminum sheet in place of the asbestos with some backer board discs to offset it maybe 5/16". Then find a way to direct some air flow between the plates. What you are doing is interrupting the transmission of radiant energy from the manifold. A single layer of sheetmetal will stop 90% of radiant energy directed at it and convert it to heat. The second layer will stop 90% radiated from the first sheet. Air flow between the sheets will remove heat from the assembly through convection. I think that if the heat shield were designed so that there was no line of sight from the manifold to the carburetors you would nearly eliminate most carb heating problems. The exception would be when the hot engine is stopped and there is no air flow at which time the entire engine bay becomes soaked with heat.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> Elton
> 
> 
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 3:09 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:
> Help,
> ?
> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons.?The metal part is fine and I just need the insulation material.
> ?
> Thanks.... Harold
> 1960 BT7
> ?
> ?
> ?
> ?
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20191111/1e80ac2b/attachment.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 21:54:07 -0500
> From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
> To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>, Elton S <eps2660 at gmail.com>,
>    Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> Message-ID: <mailman.7.1573585201.6907.healeys at autox.team.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Bill
> Great recommendation. I have seen the air gap type of heat shield on other applications that seem to work well.
> Perry
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
> 
> If ?I were doing this I think I would just put an extra layer of aluminum sheet in place of the asbestos with some backer board discs to offset it maybe 5/16". Then find a way to direct some air flow between the plates. What you are doing is interrupting the transmission of radiant energy from the manifold. A single layer of sheetmetal will stop 90% of radiant energy directed at it and convert it to heat. The second layer will stop 90% radiated from the first sheet. Air flow between the sheets will remove heat from the assembly through convection. I think that if the heat shield were designed so that there was no line of sight from the manifold to the carburetors you would nearly eliminate most carb heating problems. The exception would be when the hot engine is stopped and there is no air flow at which time the entire engine bay becomes soaked with heat.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> Elton
> 
> 
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 3:09 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:
> Help,
> ?
> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons.?The metal part is fine and I just need the insulation material.
> ?
> Thanks.... Harold
> 1960 BT7
> ?
> ?
> ?
> ?
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20191111/e8ec1276/attachment.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 02:56:04 +0000
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>,
>    "simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com"
>    <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID:
>    <CY4PR07MB3432AA9A1950539FCAAF69B6A5770 at CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
>    
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> Absolutely not. The blades are designed to provide highest efficiency when turning in one direction with relation to the air flow. The blades are airfoils and use Bernoulli's principles to move air and build static pressure. An aircraft wing doesn't produce much lift if it is flying backwards. You can still move air if the blade is turning in the wrong direction, but it won't be nearly as efficient.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #544
> ________________________________
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 1:36 AM
> To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft
> You are kidding right?
> 
> M
> 
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com<mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ________________________________
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
> To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>; healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
> Larry '67 BJ8
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>
> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Experts,
> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price. It is Positive earth.
> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
> Simon
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 22:31:50 -0500
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>,
>    "simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com"
>    <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID:
>    <CAB3i7LKO_dxYF6v5aVcN3L8FLXpiydDDioUgx2UW7dubxywGDQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> So just to be clear ...
> 
> You have fan, you take the blade assembly off the shaft, flip the blade
> assembly over and reinstall it onto the shaft and then, when the fan blades
> are driven in the same direction of rotation direction as previously the
> air movement will be reversed?
> 
> The miracles of modern science.
> 
> M
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 9:56 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Absolutely not. The blades are designed to provide highest efficiency when
>> turning in one direction with relation to the air flow. The blades are
>> airfoils and use Bernoulli's principles to move air and build static
>> pressure. An aircraft wing doesn't produce much lift if it is flying
>> backwards. You can still move air if the blade is turning in the wrong
>> direction, but it won't be nearly as efficient.
>> 
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 #544
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 12, 2019 1:36 AM
>> *To:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>;
>> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> *For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and
>> turn it around on the shaft *
>> You are kidding right?
>> 
>> M
>> 
>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is
>> danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That
>> being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed
>> by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the
>> fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer
>> fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
>> 
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 #554
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry
>> Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>;
>> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can
>> wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to
>> see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to
>> the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
>> Larry '67 BJ8
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
>> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Hi Experts,
>> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
>> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price.
>> It is Positive earth.
>> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
>> That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
>> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
>> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>> Simon
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
> -------------- next part --------------
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 13
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 20:09:05 -0800
> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID:
>    <CABXhz89Yf8V55XMRV8nbmyiE90BbqE_Grevi994rnc1ph9JTWA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I bought an aeroline fan with some pretty cool looking blades and the
> instructions say reverse the wire if it's to be used as a pusher fan. Do
> not touch the fan blades. I bought one similar to this-
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aeroline-Electric-Radiator-Cooling-Universal/dp/B01E7E4WO4
> .
> Will install with a thermostat and manual switch over the winter.
> Cheers
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>      _______                                  _______
>     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>         (_________________________)
>          BT7 engine and disk brakes
> 
> 
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
> 
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
> 
> 
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 7:33 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> So just to be clear ...
>> 
>> You have fan, you take the blade assembly off the shaft, flip the blade
>> assembly over and reinstall it onto the shaft and then, when the fan blades
>> are driven in the same direction of rotation direction as previously the
>> air movement will be reversed?
>> 
>> The miracles of modern science.
>> 
>> M
>> 
>> 
>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 9:56 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> Absolutely not. The blades are designed to provide highest efficiency
>>> when turning in one direction with relation to the air flow. The blades are
>>> airfoils and use Bernoulli's principles to move air and build static
>>> pressure. An aircraft wing doesn't produce much lift if it is flying
>>> backwards. You can still move air if the blade is turning in the wrong
>>> direction, but it won't be nearly as efficient.
>>> 
>>> Bill Lawrence
>>> BN1 #544
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 12, 2019 1:36 AM
>>> *To:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
>>> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>;
>>> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>>> 
>>> *For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and
>>> turn it around on the shaft *
>>> You are kidding right?
>>> 
>>> M
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com>
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is
>>> danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That
>>> being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed
>>> by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the
>>> fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer
>>> fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
>>> 
>>> Bill Lawrence
>>> BN1 #554
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry
>>> Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
>>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <
>>> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>>> 
>>> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can
>>> wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to
>>> see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to
>>> the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
>>> Larry '67 BJ8
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>>> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hi Experts,
>>> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
>>> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good
>>> price. It is Positive earth.
>>> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
>>> That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
>>> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
>>> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>>> Simon
>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
> -------------- next part --------------
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> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20191111/2049ad44/attachment-0001.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 14
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 21:58:09 -0800
> From: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
> To: "'Harold Manifold'" <manifold at telus.net>, "'Ahealey help'"
>    <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> Message-ID: <2f4401d5991e$2b2a9fe0$817fdfa0$@roadrunner.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I did not know that it was no longer available.  It was made from some form
> of cement board.  I'm sure it is not as effective as the original asbestos
> sheets.
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
> 
> 
> From: Harold Manifold [mailto:manifold at telus.net] 
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 1:17 PM
> To: 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; 'Ahealey help'
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> 
> 
> I looked at the Moss kit but it isn't available anymore. Was the Moss heat
> shield made from Hardi Board?
> 
> 
> 
> Harold
> 
> 
> 
>  _____  
> 
> From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] 
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 12:59 PM
> To: 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
> shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
> last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
> quality reproduction that fit well.
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
> Manifold
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
> To: 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
> Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> 
> 
> Help,
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
> won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
> is fine and I just need the insulation material.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.... Harold
> 
> 1960 BT7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20191111/1f3bf6c2/attachment-0001.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 15
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 17:09:11 +1100
> From: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
> To: "'Bruce Steele'" <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>, "'Harold Manifold'"
>    <manifold at telus.net>, "'Ahealey help'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> Message-ID: <017b01d5991f$b5de2c50$219a84f0$@tpg.com.au>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Hello
> 
> 
> 
> The heat shields are available from AH Spares in the UK for ?37.75.
> 
> 
> 
> Hoo Roo
> 
> 
> 
> Patrick Quinn
> 
> Sydney, Australia
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce
> Steele
> Sent: Tuesday, 12 November 2019 4:58 PM
> To: 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> 
> 
> I did not know that it was no longer available.  It was made from some form
> of cement board.  I?m sure it is not as effective as the original asbestos
> sheets.
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
> 
> 
> From: Harold Manifold [mailto:manifold at telus.net] 
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 1:17 PM
> To: 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; 'Ahealey help'
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> 
> 
> I looked at the Moss kit but it isn't available anymore. Was the Moss heat
> shield made from Hardi Board?
> 
> 
> 
> Harold
> 
> 
> 
>  _____  
> 
> From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] 
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 12:59 PM
> To: 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
> shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
> last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
> quality reproduction that fit well.
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
> Manifold
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
> To: 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> 
> 
> Help,
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
> won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
> is fine and I just need the insulation material.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.... Harold
> 
> 1960 BT7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20191112/4ea2a957/attachment-0001.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 16
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 06:32:33 +0000 (UTC)
> From: jim <ab7vf at yahoo.com>
> To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>,  Michael Salter
>    <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID: <1348484529.1912588.1573540353347 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> If you look 'closely' at these plastic fans, you can see a concave side and a convex side on the fan blades...It really IS an airfoil? and no just mechanically swapping the fan around won't change the blow/suck direction
> Jim
> 
>    On Tuesday, November 12, 2019, 3:32:53 AM UTC, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:  
> 
> So just to be clear ...? 
> 
> You have fan, you take the blade assembly off the shaft, flip the blade assembly over and reinstall it onto the shaft and then, when the fan blades are driven in the same direction of rotation direction as previously the air movement will be reversed?
> The miracles of modern science.
> M
> 
> 
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019 at 9:56 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> Absolutely not. The blades are designed to provide highest efficiency when turning in one direction with relation to the air flow. The blades are airfoils and use Bernoulli's principles to move air and build static pressure. An aircraft wing doesn't produce much lift if it is flying backwards. You can still move air if the blade is turning in the wrong direction, but it won't be nearly as efficient.
> Bill LawrenceBN1 #544From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 1:36 AM
> To: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe?For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft?You are kidding right?
> M
> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer fans use a ?backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
> Bill LawrenceBN1 #554From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
> To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>;healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe?Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.? You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated. 
> Larry '67 BJ8
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Experts,
> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price. It is Positive earth.
> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
> Simon
> ??
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com
> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 17
> Date: Mon, 11 Nov 2019 22:38:28 -0800
> From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
> To: "'Ahealey help'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> Message-ID: <001101d59923$cb642260$622c6720$@sbcglobal.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Asbestos is not a great insulator as people might think. Once it heats up,
> it stays hot. The shields can be restored it they are in good shape. They
> can be painted with a high temperature white paint that is available at auto
> parts stores. Asbestos is a danger only if it is friable (emitting dust).
> Painting the heat shields encapsulates the asbestos. This is a common
> remedial method that is used in construction when asbestos is found and not
> abated.
> 
> 
> 
> John Spaur
> 
> '62 BT7 with original heat shields.
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce
> Steele
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 9:58 PM
> To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>; 'Ahealey help'
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> 
> 
> I did not know that it was no longer available.  It was made from some form
> of cement board.  I'm sure it is not as effective as the original asbestos
> sheets.
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
> 
> 
> From: Harold Manifold [mailto:manifold at telus.net] 
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 1:17 PM
> To: 'Bruce Steele' <healeybruce at roadrunner.com
> <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> >; 'Ahealey help'
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> 
> 
> I looked at the Moss kit but it isn't available anymore. Was the Moss heat
> shield made from Hardi Board?
> 
> 
> 
> Harold
> 
> 
> 
>  _____  
> 
> From: Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com] 
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 12:59 PM
> To: 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
> shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
> last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
> quality reproduction that fit well.
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Harold
> Manifold
> Sent: Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
> To: 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
> Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> 
> 
> 
> Help,
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
> won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
> is fine and I just need the insulation material.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.... Harold
> 
> 1960 BT7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20191111/1cdfd081/attachment-0001.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 18
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 09:51:46 +0100
> From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID: <ae2e4fe3-2239-5f02-1c4c-087bbb94549e at chello.nl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> Bill is right. just switching over the wires reverses the direction the 
> fan turns, but that will leave the curvature of the blade facing the 
> wrong way so you also have to turn it around if the design allows it.
> 
> Kees Oudesluijs
> 
> 
> 
> Op 12-11-2019 om 02:36 schreef Michael Salter:
>> /*For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly 
>> and turn it around on the shaft */
>> You are kidding right?
>> 
>> M
>> 
>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com 
>> <mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
>> 
>>    I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize
>>    there is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much
>>    the same. That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of
>>    the fan can be reversed by switching the wires. For best results
>>    you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it
>>    around on the shaft since most of the newer fans use a ?backward
>>    curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
>> 
>>    Bill Lawrence
>>    BN1 #554
>>    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>    *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>    <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Larry
>>    Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net
>>    <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>    *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
>>    *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>>    <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>>    <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>>    <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>;
>>    healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>    <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>    *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>>    Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.?
>>    You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a
>>    volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing.
>>    If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing.
>>    Should be no issue if it is isolated.
>>    Larry '67 BJ8
>> 
>> 
>>    -----Original Message-----
>>    From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>>    <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>
>>    To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>    Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
>>    Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>    Hi Experts,
>>    I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
>>    I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very
>>    good price. It is Positive earth.
>>    I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other
>>    way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in
>>    effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
>>    Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>>    Simon
>> 
>> 
>>    _______________________________________________
>>    Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>    Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>> 
>>    Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>    http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>>    Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>>    Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>> 
>>    _______________________________________________
>>    Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>    Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>> 
>>    Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>    http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>>    Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>>    Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>> 
>>    _______________________________________________
>>    Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>    Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>> 
>>    Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>    http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>>    Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>>    Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>> 
> -------------- next part --------------
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 19
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 10:39:08 -0000
> From: <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To: "'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'" <ynotink at msn.com>, "'Larry Wendland via
>    Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID: <004501d59945$6aa4dc40$3fee94c0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> This is one of two topics raised in my original post. See:-
> 
> "I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
> That's all very well..goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless. Is there a solution?" 
> 
> Looking at the photos, it seemed to me that the blades had a particular
> shape and that it was not symmetrical one side to the other. So I sort of
> assumed that reversing the direction would not be the whole solution. 
> 
> Whilst I should like to be sure of this before I commit to a fan, it does
> seem that the blades have that very particular design for a reason.
> 
> Of course, when/if I buy the fan, it may not be physically possible to
> reverse the blades! 
> 
> Keep it coming!
> 
> Simon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> 
> Sent: 12 November 2019 00:49
> To: Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>;
> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is
> danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That
> being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed
> by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the fan
> blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer fans
> use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
> 
> 
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> 
> BN1 #554
> 
>  _____  
> 
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Larry Wendland via
> Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
> To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> >; healeys at autox.team.net
> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  <healeys at autox.team.net
> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe 
> 
> 
> 
> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can wire
> it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see
> if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the
> fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated. 
> Larry '67 BJ8
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> >
> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Experts,
> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price.
> It is Positive earth.
> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
> That's all very well..goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Simon
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 20
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 04:06:56 -0800
> From: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID:
>    <CABXhz8-SbLawv2-_2i8RAQLVKtKLZAJ6sTPar9==36CXfxkmWg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> The product I bought instructs you to not touch the fan, just reverse the
> wires...
> 
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> 1959 Austin Healey BN4
> 1967 MGB
> 
> On Tue, Nov 12, 2019, 12:52 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> wrote:
> 
>> Bill is right. just switching over the wires reverses the direction the
>> fan turns, but that will leave the curvature of the blade facing the wrong
>> way so you also have to turn it around if the design allows it.
>> 
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Op 12-11-2019 om 02:36 schreef Michael Salter:
>> 
>> *For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and
>> turn it around on the shaft *
>> You are kidding right?
>> 
>> M
>> 
>>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 7:48 PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE, <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is
>>> danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That
>>> being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed
>>> by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the
>>> fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer
>>> fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
>>> 
>>> Bill Lawrence
>>> BN1 #554
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry
>>> Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
>>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <
>>> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>>> 
>>> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can
>>> wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to
>>> see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to
>>> the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
>>> Larry '67 BJ8
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>>> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hi Experts,
>>> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
>>> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good
>>> price. It is Positive earth.
>>> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
>>> That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
>>> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
>>> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>>> Simon
>>> 
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>> 
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 21
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 07:35:42 -0500
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
> Cc: Healey Bruce <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
> Message-ID:
>    <CAB3i7LJnSQgKXzYnJDNUo+K6Xu0PxXECqZOSojR=m4WodpES5Q at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I believe that I still have several that were water jet cut using originals
> as patterns.
> 
> M
> 
>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 4:16 PM Harold Manifold, <manifold at telus.net> wrote:
>> 
>> I looked at the Moss kit but it isn't available anymore. Was the Moss heat
>> shield made from Hardi Board?
>> 
>> Harold
>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com]
>> *Sent:* Monday, November 11, 2019 12:59 PM
>> *To:* 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
>> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
>> 
>> Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
>> shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
>> last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
>> quality reproduction that fit well.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Bruce Steele
>> 
>> Brea, CA
>> 
>> 1960 BN7
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Harold
>> Manifold
>> *Sent:* Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
>> *To:* 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Help,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
>> won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
>> is fine and I just need the insulation material.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks.... Harold
>> 
>> 1960 BT7
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 22
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 08:26:07 -0500
> From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
> To: "simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com"
>    <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID: <mailman.8.1573585201.6907.healeys at autox.team.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Just took a new Flex-A-Lite 12 inch Model 111 electric fan off the shelf in the garage to see how Flex A Lite handles the flan blade issue.  It uses the ?curved? blade design. They have different model numbers for pusher and puller applications. 
> However there is a  video on their web site that talks about removing and reversing the fan blade on a ?straight? blade fan to convert from pusher to puller. In the video it mentions, along with flipping the blade, that the polarity is switched also.
> 
> https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=flex+a+lite+how+to+convert+pusher+to+puller&docid=608054440764244813&mid=BAFA7064871FDDED725FBAFA7064871FDDED725F&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
> From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 5:39 AM
> To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'; 'Larry Wendland via Healeys'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> This is one of two topics raised in my original post. See:-
> ?I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless. Is there a solution?? 
> Looking at the photos, it seemed to me that the blades had a particular shape and that it was not symmetrical one side to the other. So I sort of assumed that reversing the direction would not be the whole solution. 
> Whilst I should like to be sure of this before I commit to a fan, it does seem that the blades have that very particular design for a reason.
> Of course, when/if I buy the fan, it may not be physically possible to reverse the blades! 
> Keep it coming!
> Simon
> 
> 
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> 
> Sent: 12 November 2019 00:49
> To: Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer fans use a ?backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> 
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
> To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe 
> ?
> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.? You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated. 
> Larry '67 BJ8
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Experts,
> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price. It is Positive earth.
> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
> 
> Simon
> ??
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 23
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 08:26:07 -0500
> From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
> To: "simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com"
>    <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID: <mailman.9.1573585201.6907.healeys at autox.team.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Just took a new Flex-A-Lite 12 inch Model 111 electric fan off the shelf in the garage to see how Flex A Lite handles the flan blade issue.  It uses the ?curved? blade design. They have different model numbers for pusher and puller applications. 
> However there is a  video on their web site that talks about removing and reversing the fan blade on a ?straight? blade fan to convert from pusher to puller. In the video it mentions, along with flipping the blade, that the polarity is switched also.
> 
> https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=flex+a+lite+how+to+convert+pusher+to+puller&docid=608054440764244813&mid=BAFA7064871FDDED725FBAFA7064871FDDED725F&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
> From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2019 5:39 AM
> To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE'; 'Larry Wendland via Healeys'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> This is one of two topics raised in my original post. See:-
> ?I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless. Is there a solution?? 
> Looking at the photos, it seemed to me that the blades had a particular shape and that it was not symmetrical one side to the other. So I sort of assumed that reversing the direction would not be the whole solution. 
> Whilst I should like to be sure of this before I commit to a fan, it does seem that the blades have that very particular design for a reason.
> Of course, when/if I buy the fan, it may not be physically possible to reverse the blades! 
> Keep it coming!
> Simon
> 
> 
> From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> 
> Sent: 12 November 2019 00:49
> To: Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer fans use a ?backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
> 
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> 
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
> To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe 
> ?
> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.? You can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated. 
> Larry '67 BJ8
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Experts,
> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price. It is Positive earth.
> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
> 
> Simon
> ??
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 24
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 08:41:24 -0500
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: "simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com"
>    <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>, healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID:
>    <CAB3i7LJXqTFt5R29ajq_iHS3OHn4fQjfgq3AVfiv=wgJM3X5cg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> "it mentions, along with flipping the blade, that the polarity is switched
> also."
> Ahh there is the difference ... I you have ever worked with model
> aeroplanes you will be well aware that flipping the prop over does not
> reverse the direction of airflow, just makes it less efficient.
> 
> M
> 
> 
> On Tue, Nov 12, 2019 at 8:26 AM Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
> 
>> Just took a new Flex-A-Lite 12 inch Model 111 electric fan off the shelf
>> in the garage to see how Flex A Lite handles the flan blade issue.  It uses
>> the ?curved? blade design. They have different model numbers for pusher and
>> puller applications.
>> 
>> However there is a  video on their web site that talks about removing and
>> reversing the fan blade on a ?straight? blade fan to convert from pusher to
>> puller. In the video it mentions, along with flipping the blade, that the
>> polarity is switched also.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=flex+a+lite+how+to+convert+pusher+to+puller&docid=608054440764244813&mid=BAFA7064871FDDED725FBAFA7064871FDDED725F&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>> Windows 10
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> *From: *simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>> *Sent: *Tuesday, November 12, 2019 5:39 AM
>> *To: *'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' <ynotink at msn.com>; 'Larry Wendland via Healeys'
>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> This is one of two topics raised in my original post. See:-
>> 
>> ?I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
>> That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
>> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless. Is there a solution??
>> 
>> Looking at the photos, it seemed to me that the blades had a particular
>> shape and that it was not symmetrical one side to the other. So I sort of
>> assumed that reversing the direction would not be the whole solution.
>> 
>> Whilst I should like to be sure of this before I commit to a fan, it does
>> seem that the blades have that very particular design for a reason.
>> 
>> Of course, when/if I buy the fan, it may not be physically possible to
>> reverse the blades!
>> 
>> Keep it coming!
>> 
>> Simon
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> *From:* WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
>> *Sent:* 12 November 2019 00:49
>> *To:* Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>;
>> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there is
>> danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. That
>> being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can be reversed
>> by switching the wires. For best results you may also want to remove the
>> fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since most of the newer
>> fans use a  backward curved blade design for optimum efficiency.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Bill Lawrence
>> 
>> BN1 #554
>> 
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Larry
>> Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>;
>> healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.  You can
>> wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm meter to
>> see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then the motor to
>> the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue if it is isolated.
>> Larry '67 BJ8
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
>> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Hi Experts,
>> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
>> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good price.
>> It is Positive earth.
>> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other way.
>> That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, be pulling
>> the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
>> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Simon
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 25
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 14:50:59 +0100
> From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
> Message-ID: <72004550-9815-8c52-4e7b-112a7cca05af at chello.nl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed"
> 
> If the fan is a pusher in front of the radiator the hollow side of the 
> blades will be towards the radiator, if it is a puller (preferred) 
> behind the radiator the hollow side is towards the engine. To make room 
> for the puller fan you usually have to remove the fixed fan, depending 
> on the design (thickness) of the fan assembly. Direction of rotation can 
> be changed by changing over the two wires on the fan. In some cases the 
> fan can be reversed on the spindle to make it both puller and pusher.
> 
> Fan blades are often not symmetrically distributed on the hub to prevent 
> resonances and thus noise.
> 
> Kees Oudesluijs
> 
> 
> Op 12-11-2019 om 11:39 schreef simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com:
>> 
>> This is one of two topics raised in my original post. See:-
>> 
>> ?I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other 
>> way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, 
>> be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless. Is there a 
>> solution??
>> 
>> Looking at the photos, it seemed to me that the blades had a 
>> particular shape and that it was not symmetrical one side to the 
>> other. So I sort of assumed that reversing the direction would not be 
>> the whole solution.
>> 
>> Whilst I should like to be sure of this before I commit to a fan, it 
>> does seem that the blades have that very particular design for a reason.
>> 
>> Of course, when/if I buy the fan, it may not be physically possible to 
>> reverse the blades!
>> 
>> Keep it coming!
>> 
>> Simon
>> 
>> *From:*WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com>
>> *Sent:* 12 November 2019 00:49
>> *To:* Larry Wendland via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; 
>> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> I don't have experience with Kenlowe, but I assume (and realize there 
>> is danger in that word) that these fans are all pretty much the same. 
>> That being said the direction, and therefore the flow of the fan can 
>> be reversed by switching the wires. For best results you may also want 
>> to remove the fan blade assembly and turn it around on the shaft since 
>> most of the newer fans use a ?backward curved blade design for optimum 
>> efficiency.
>> 
>> Bill Lawrence
>> 
>> BN1 #554
>> 
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> 
>> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net 
>> <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Larry Wendland 
>> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>> *Sent:* Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:02 PM
>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
>> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
>> <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
>> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>; healeys at autox.team.net 
>> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net 
>> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> Simon, I Googled Kenlowe and it showed it has a two wire lead.? You 
>> can wire it up as you please. Just check the two wires with a volt-ohm 
>> meter to see if either one is common to the fan housing. If not, then 
>> the motor to the fan is isolated from its housing. Should be no issue 
>> if it is isolated.
>> Larry '67 BJ8
>> 
>> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: simon.lachlan <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
>> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>
>> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>> Sent: Sun, Nov 10, 2019 7:38 am
>> Subject: [Healeys] Kenlowe
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Hi Experts,
>> I have a 3000. It is Negative earth.
>> I have an opportunity to buy a Kenlowe, second hand, at a very good 
>> price. It is Positive earth.
>> I imagine that, if I reverse the wires, the fan will run the other 
>> way. That?s all very well?.goes round and round but will, in effect, 
>> be pulling the air rather than pushing. Which is useless.
>> Is there a solution? Apart from not buying it!
>> 
>> Simon
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bighealey3k at aim.com
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ynotink at msn.com
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 26
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 09:52:45 -0500
> From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Multiple postings
> Message-ID: <mailman.10.1573585201.6907.healeys at autox.team.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Not sure if my posts are showing up on the list in multiples.  They did on my computer.  Sorry if that is the case. It was not intentional.  
> Perry
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 27
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 12:52:28 -0500
> From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
> To: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Multiple postings
> Message-ID:
>    <CAGfzsZeHHqq0gTh2_B+5s9-z0mgzquEbH-xzpNzpXW0M0gOk7g at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Don't worry.  They're so good I like to read them twice.
> 
> Rick Neville
> 
> On Tue, Nov 12, 2019 at 9:53 AM Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
> 
>> Not sure if my posts are showing up on the list in multiples.  They did on
>> my computer.  Sorry if that is the case. It was not intentional.
>> 
>> Perry
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>> Windows 10
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 28
> Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 10:34:59 -0800
> From: Steve Gerow <sgerow2 at gmail.com>
> To: Healey Email list <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit
> Message-ID:
>    <CA+myF4op4O_x1d3VYcVKsW3OeLneA2FR5mQ5=iXE=izXgvmNAg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Forward is correct - the sender needs to descend into the well at the
> bottom of the tank. If the sender is toward the rear, the gauge will never
> go lower than 1/4 tank because the sender hangs up on the edge of the well.
> Folks have run out of gas because of this.
> 
> -- 
> 
> *Steve Gerow*
> BN6
> Aldadena, CA
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 378
> ****************************************

From sgerow2 at gmail.com  Tue Nov 12 14:37:22 2019
From: sgerow2 at gmail.com (Steve Gerow)
Date: Tue, 12 Nov 2019 13:37:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit
In-Reply-To: <00d101d59990$127474e0$375d5ea0$@gmail.com>
References: <CA+myF4op4O_x1d3VYcVKsW3OeLneA2FR5mQ5=iXE=izXgvmNAg@mail.gmail.com>
 <00d101d59990$127474e0$375d5ea0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CA+myF4ootfF2TKtCsQmCYPp=-a73eh7qzt5A9JQg7bis2az72A@mail.gmail.com>

Robert - Apologies for the confusion. The arm with float (bulb) needs to
point forward in order for the float to descend into the well as you
approach empty.

On Tue, Nov 12, 2019 at 11:33 AM Robert Begani <rfbegani at gmail.com> wrote:

> This is confusing.
>
>
>
> Ok Steve let me confirm.  The sender is pointed forward. .  But, which way
> is the bulb pointed is more important.   I just changed to the bulb
> pointing to the front and the  the damn thing started working showing less
> than full whereas before with be bulb pointing rear it was always showing
> full.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bob Begani
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Steve
> Gerow
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 12, 2019 1:35 PM
> *To:* Healey Email list <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Orientation of the fuel sending unit
>
>
>
> Forward is correct - the sender needs to descend into the well at the
> bottom of the tank. If the sender is toward the rear, the gauge will never
> go lower than 1/4 tank because the sender hangs up on the edge of the well.
> Folks have run out of gas because of this.
>
>
> --
>
> *Steve Gerow*
>
> BN6
>
> Aldadena, CA
>


-- 
*Steve*
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Nov 13 05:40:41 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 07:40:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Exterior cover recommendations
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5-SUMQid=BsgGaohY26vkzEhsqae4+V3avL_Wh-aEubA@mail.gmail.com>

I recently ordered and had to return an exterior cover for my 100 from one
of the large online sellers.  Though the website claimed that the covers
were "custom made" for each model such was not the case.

My biggest issue was that the cover was cut and sewn to provide for
door-mounted side-view mirrors which I do not have on my car and the result
was that that there were large "pouches" in the cover that would probably
wind up being water catchers at the base of the windshield.  The cover also
seemed big enough to accommodate a six-cylinder Healey which is several
inches longer than a 100.

Does anyone know of an exterior cover that fits a 100 without pouches for
side mirrors?

Best--Michael Oritt
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From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Nov 13 07:39:33 2019
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 14:39:33 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Exterior cover recommendations
References: <275438420.3367145.1573655973392.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <275438420.3367145.1573655973392@mail.yahoo.com>

Michael,
I have bought 2 covers for 6 cyl cars over the years and both have been an excellent fit.? Great contour, great dimensions, no mirror pockets.? I bought a little extra material and had pockets added on one after receiving.? California Car Cover.https://www.calcarcover.com/
Keith

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Nov 13, 2019 7:47 am
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Exterior cover recommendations

I recently ordered and had to return an exterior cover for my 100 from one of the large online sellers.? Though the website claimed that the covers were "custom made" for each model such was not the case.

My biggest issue was that the cover was cut and sewn to provide for door-mounted side-view mirrors which I do not have on my car and the result was that that there were large "pouches" in the cover that would probably wind up being water catchers at the base of the windshield.? The cover also seemed big enough to accommodate a six-cylinder Healey which is several inches longer than a 100.

Does anyone know of an exterior cover that fits a 100 without pouches for side mirrors?

Best--Michael Oritt_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Nov 13 13:40:56 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 15:40:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tenax fittings source needed
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6YVH8CV2zbok0hwOpVxiskrsnN0YfjJAYYg5fWP219mQ@mail.gmail.com>

I am looking for a source for Tenax fasteners where the male fitting
(post/stud) is threaded to be used in sheet metal.  I have found a number
of listings on Amazon but all of the posts/studs are threaded for use in
wood.  TIA.

Best--Michael Oritt
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Nov 13 13:56:03 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 15:56:03 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tenax fittings source needed
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6YVH8CV2zbok0hwOpVxiskrsnN0YfjJAYYg5fWP219mQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6YVH8CV2zbok0hwOpVxiskrsnN0YfjJAYYg5fWP219mQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJkJ0+tsTG8-FCPOQE0+pmOdxJ4NN+=7oErBGz5gmtT5w@mail.gmail.com>

I have a few Michael ...how many do you need?
m

On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 3:41 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I am looking for a source for Tenax fasteners where the male fitting
> (post/stud) is threaded to be used in sheet metal.  I have found a number
> of listings on Amazon but all of the posts/studs are threaded for use in
> wood.  TIA.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From rsimmen at nc.rr.com  Wed Nov 13 13:59:41 2019
From: rsimmen at nc.rr.com (Bob Simmen)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 15:59:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tenax fittings source needed
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6YVH8CV2zbok0hwOpVxiskrsnN0YfjJAYYg5fWP219mQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6YVH8CV2zbok0hwOpVxiskrsnN0YfjJAYYg5fWP219mQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001e01d59a65$467ae050$d370a0f0$@nc.rr.com>

Try Sailrite.  They may have them.

www.sailrite.com <http://www.sailrite.com> 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2019 3:41 PM
To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Tenax fittings source needed

 

I am looking for a source for Tenax fasteners where the male fitting (post/stud) is threaded to be used in sheet metal.  I have found a number of listings on Amazon but all of the posts/studs are threaded for use in wood.  TIA.

 

Best--Michael Oritt

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From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Wed Nov 13 14:10:25 2019
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2019 07:10:25 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Tenax fittings source needed
In-Reply-To: <001e01d59a65$467ae050$d370a0f0$@nc.rr.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6YVH8CV2zbok0hwOpVxiskrsnN0YfjJAYYg5fWP219mQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001e01d59a65$467ae050$d370a0f0$@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <a91573$67idj2@icp-osb-irony-out4.iinet.net.au>

Holden Vintage & Classic (UK) have them. Also Woolies trim

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Bob Simmen
Sent: Thursday, 14 November 2019 6:59 AM
To: 'Michael Oritt'; 'Austin Healey'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tenax fittings source needed

Try Sailrite.? They may have them.
www.sailrite.com


From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2019 3:41 PM
To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Tenax fittings source needed

I am looking for a source for Tenax fasteners where the male fitting (post/stud) is threaded to be used in sheet metal.? I have found a number of listings on Amazon but all of the posts/studs are threaded for use in wood.? TIA.

Best--Michael Oritt

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From autofarm at wightman.ca  Wed Nov 13 14:37:41 2019
From: autofarm at wightman.ca (Auto Farm)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 16:37:41 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tenax fittings source needed
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6YVH8CV2zbok0hwOpVxiskrsnN0YfjJAYYg5fWP219mQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B6YVH8CV2zbok0hwOpVxiskrsnN0YfjJAYYg5fWP219mQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003901d59a6a$97f22f60$c7d68e20$@ca>

Autofarm Ltd  has stock all the time. www.autofarm.net

Cheers?.Bob

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: November-13-19 3:41 PM
To: Austin Healey
Subject: [Healeys] Tenax fittings source needed

 

I am looking for a source for Tenax fasteners where the male fitting (post/stud) is threaded to be used in sheet metal.  I have found a number of listings on Amazon but all of the posts/studs are threaded for use in wood.  TIA.

 

Best--Michael Oritt

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Nov 13 14:46:47 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 16:46:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Tenax fittings source needed
In-Reply-To: <003901d59a6a$97f22f60$c7d68e20$@ca>
References: <CAPTa0B6YVH8CV2zbok0hwOpVxiskrsnN0YfjJAYYg5fWP219mQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <003901d59a6a$97f22f60$c7d68e20$@ca>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7m4Vn-sSQ0dpWJsWeL0JKxtx_3e8GT8bfpMrnXTP4qZg@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you all for the many immediate responses and multiple sources.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 4:37 PM Auto Farm <autofarm at wightman.ca> wrote:

> Autofarm Ltd  has stock all the time. www.autofarm.net
>
> Cheers?.Bob
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Oritt
> *Sent:* November-13-19 3:41 PM
> *To:* Austin Healey
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Tenax fittings source needed
>
>
>
> I am looking for a source for Tenax fasteners where the male fitting
> (post/stud) is threaded to be used in sheet metal.  I have found a number
> of listings on Amazon but all of the posts/studs are threaded for use in
> wood.  TIA.
>
>
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Nov 13 14:59:56 2019
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 21:59:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 6 Cyl connecting rods
References: <2044997475.506737.1573682396547.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2044997475.506737.1573682396547@mail.yahoo.com>

I have a few used connecting rods & they have #'s stamped on the big end cap between the two bolts as follows: 2, 23, 44, 70. What does that indicate?Thanks,Gary Hodson
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Nov 13 15:54:29 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2019 17:54:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 6 Cyl connecting rods
In-Reply-To: <2044997475.506737.1573682396547@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2044997475.506737.1573682396547.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2044997475.506737.1573682396547@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.27.1573685673.2919.healeys@autox.team.net>

Gary
For me, who put the marks there is the first question.  I have seen stamped rod caps (between the bolt holes) with common numbers i.e. ?66? and sometimes a separate number, i.e. ?+16? when dismantling an engine. Sometimes the numbers are all different. Suspect that the numbers are related to the original engine builder grabbing 6 piston and rod assemblies out of a bin that have to fall into the manufacturers criteria for weight. Last original engine was assembled more than 50 years ago, and I have never been able to discuss this with any of the English old timers. 
Back to my ?first question.? Engine rebuilders sometimes stamp all kinds of info on the engine bits they used on a rebuild.  
That can really mess with trying to figure out what the numbers mean.
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2019 5:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 6 Cyl connecting rods

I have a few used connecting rods & they have #'s stamped on the big end cap between the two bolts as follows: 2, 23, 44, 70. What does that indicate?
Thanks,
Gary Hodson

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Nov 15 09:34:58 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 11:34:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LL=jbb4pGTNAdBBESYfcAYoEXvHg01k_fqKX41pChUrEQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <EB9AD0894A104022B5077A95DE47281E@AllInOne>
 <2ecc01d598d2$e4267f60$ac737e20$@roadrunner.com>
 <01B0355B4F6D4DC0B0BF7D8A56F9BC41@AllInOne>
 <CAB3i7LJnSQgKXzYnJDNUo+K6Xu0PxXECqZOSojR=m4WodpES5Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <470697959.226706439.1573607262122.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <CAB3i7LL=jbb4pGTNAdBBESYfcAYoEXvHg01k_fqKX41pChUrEQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+D47VpHeRL0FtKjdXB_UeAyh96shOGFS7WRAB0OOP7tw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Harold,
Yes I have several  2 carb heat shield insulations.
[image: image.png]
The one you require is on the left.
These are riveted to the steel heatshield plate.
They are $CDN 45ea + Shipping.


M

On Wed, Nov 13, 2019 at 8:01 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Yes ... I'll check what I have and get back to you.
>
> M
>
> On Tue, Nov 12, 2019, 8:07 PM manifold at telus.net, <manifold at telus.net>
> wrote:
>
>> Michael,
>>
>> Are your for sale/
>>
>> Harold
>>
>> ------------------------------
>> *From: *"Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> *To: *"Harold Manifold" <manifold at telus.net>
>> *Cc: *"Healey Bruce" <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>, healeys at autox.team.net
>> *Sent: *Tuesday, 12 November, 2019 05:35:42
>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
>>
>> I believe that I still have several that were water jet cut using
>> originals as patterns.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 11, 2019, 4:16 PM Harold Manifold, <manifold at telus.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I looked at the Moss kit but it isn't available anymore. Was the Moss
>>> heat shield made from Hardi Board?
>>>
>>> Harold
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Bruce Steele [mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com]
>>> *Sent:* Monday, November 11, 2019 12:59 PM
>>> *To:* 'Harold Manifold'; 'Ahealey help'
>>> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
>>>
>>> Eric Grunden of Absolutely British worked with Moss to design their heat
>>> shield replacement kit, which uses cement board.  I used their kit when I
>>> last had my engine out a couple of years ago and found it to be a good
>>> quality reproduction that fit well.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bruce Steele
>>>
>>> Brea, CA
>>>
>>> 1960 BN7
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Harold
>>> Manifold
>>> *Sent:* Monday, November 11, 2019 11:48 AM
>>> *To:* 'Ahealey help' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Carburetor Heat Shield BT7 Mk1
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Help,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Any suggestions on the best material to make a carburetor heat shield. I
>>> won't re-use the original asbestos part for obvious reasons. The metal part
>>> is fine and I just need the insulation material.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks.... Harold
>>>
>>> 1960 BT7
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Nov 15 11:06:58 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 13:06:58 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLFhX0k-K22BkRtYAVxN78stUe4CiCm_iAr03aV=UxKrA@mail.gmail.com>

I have been trying to identify this cable abutment that is in use on a BN1
that I'm working on.
[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]
I know someone will say "It's a pencil" :-)
It is being used to secure the outer of the choke cable at the carbs.
I have seen all sorts of things used for this purpose but this looks to be
too well made to not be correct.
Can anyone confirm that this is the correct part?

Thanks.

M
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Fri Nov 15 12:09:07 2019
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 11:09:07 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLFhX0k-K22BkRtYAVxN78stUe4CiCm_iAr03aV=UxKrA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLFhX0k-K22BkRtYAVxN78stUe4CiCm_iAr03aV=UxKrA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQEkWiG8VxwxrqL=XTM7bbCotxAmkdykEiGrV9LEfM3cA@mail.gmail.com>

Michael,

I'm certain that I know most aloof the parts on a 100, and this one does
not look familiar to me.

I'm stumped!

Curt

On Fri, Nov 15, 2019 at 10:18 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have been trying to identify this cable abutment that is in use on a BN1
> that I'm working on.
> [image: image.png]
>
> [image: image.png]
> I know someone will say "It's a pencil" :-)
> It is being used to secure the outer of the choke cable at the carbs.
> I have seen all sorts of things used for this purpose but this looks to be
> too well made to not be correct.
> Can anyone confirm that this is the correct part?
>
> Thanks.
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Fri Nov 15 12:10:19 2019
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 11:10:19 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLFhX0k-K22BkRtYAVxN78stUe4CiCm_iAr03aV=UxKrA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLFhX0k-K22BkRtYAVxN78stUe4CiCm_iAr03aV=UxKrA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeSk0WubB=Y_dU+EPT5URKDFo40y8ZhZ+0xGtnr0vdjoug@mail.gmail.com>

Michael,

I'm certain that I know most all of the parts on a 100, and this does not
look familiar to me.

I'm stumped!

Curt

On Fri, Nov 15, 2019 at 10:18 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have been trying to identify this cable abutment that is in use on a BN1
> that I'm working on.
> [image: image.png]
>
> [image: image.png]
> I know someone will say "It's a pencil" :-)
> It is being used to secure the outer of the choke cable at the carbs.
> I have seen all sorts of things used for this purpose but this looks to be
> too well made to not be correct.
> Can anyone confirm that this is the correct part?
>
> Thanks.
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
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>
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From kentmclean at comcast.net  Fri Nov 15 12:20:44 2019
From: kentmclean at comcast.net (Kent McLean)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 14:20:44 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1573844401.28174.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1573844401.28174.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <E095A6D4-D0D5-48FF-ABBF-BF60480D9D2E@comcast.net>

Mike Salter wrote:
> I have been trying to identify this cable abutment that is in use on a BN1
> that I'm working on.

No help, really, but  since the car is 50+ years old, maybe someone along the way swapped out a bad one for one they had in stock. Maybe it came from an upscale car, like a Jaguar or Aston. Googling ?choke cable stop? and ?choke cable lock? didn?t help.
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Fri Nov 15 13:15:39 2019
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 20:15:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help
In-Reply-To: <E095A6D4-D0D5-48FF-ABBF-BF60480D9D2E@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.5.1573844401.28174.healeys@autox.team.net>,
 <E095A6D4-D0D5-48FF-ABBF-BF60480D9D2E@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BN6PR15MB1698B9973EEF04991DA7EEB6BF700@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Looks like a choke cable stop on my BN7

Regards,
Richard C


On Nov 15, 2019, at 13:35, Kent McLean <kentmclean at comcast.net> wrote:

? Mike Salter wrote:
I have been trying to identify this cable abutment that is in use on a BN1
that I'm working on.

No help, really, but  since the car is 50+ years old, maybe someone along the way swapped out a bad one for one they had in stock. Maybe it came from an upscale car, like a Jaguar or Aston. Googling ?choke cable stop? and ?choke cable lock? didn?t help.
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From ah100register at gmail.com  Fri Nov 15 15:15:24 2019
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 22:15:24 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLFhX0k-K22BkRtYAVxN78stUe4CiCm_iAr03aV=UxKrA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLFhX0k-K22BkRtYAVxN78stUe4CiCm_iAr03aV=UxKrA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL1Oyxd_pJiimk8rY3_jHeYxfa_nBKO+_FQCVwq8jNDsZ-WYYw@mail.gmail.com>

Michael

I am fairly sure that this is the fitting that holds the outer cable of the
choke. It holds the cable outer to the bridge piece that fits to the inner
side of the bolts that hold the filters in place. The inner of the choke
goes though the stirrup made of wire that has its outers on small fittings
fitted to the two choke arms.

I believe that the BMC part number might be 1B 2718

Best regards

On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 at 18:07, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have been trying to identify this cable abutment that is in use on a BN1
> that I'm working on.
> [image: image.png]
>
> [image: image.png]
> I know someone will say "It's a pencil" :-)
> It is being used to secure the outer of the choke cable at the carbs.
> I have seen all sorts of things used for this purpose but this looks to be
> too well made to not be correct.
> Can anyone confirm that this is the correct part?
>
> Thanks.
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Fri Nov 15 16:13:07 2019
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 12:13:07 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help
In-Reply-To: <CAL1Oyxd_pJiimk8rY3_jHeYxfa_nBKO+_FQCVwq8jNDsZ-WYYw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLFhX0k-K22BkRtYAVxN78stUe4CiCm_iAr03aV=UxKrA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL1Oyxd_pJiimk8rY3_jHeYxfa_nBKO+_FQCVwq8jNDsZ-WYYw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <67F521344C8B40FA9B1113B766986184@MarkPC>

I agree that it appears to be the abutment.  The one on my BN2 has a slot in
clamping screw instead of a 

  _____  

From: John Harper [mailto:ah100register at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, 16 November 2019 11:15 a.m.
To: Michael Salter; Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help


Michael 

I am fairly sure that this is the fitting that holds the outer cable of the
choke. It holds the cable outer to the bridge piece that fits to the inner
side of the bolts that hold the filters in place. The inner of the choke
goes though the stirrup made of wire that has its outers on small fittings
fitted to the two choke arms.

I believe that the BMC part number might be 1B 2718


Best regards

On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 at 18:07, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:


I have been trying to identify this cable abutment that is in use on a BN1
that I'm working on.
image.png

image.png

I know someone will say "It's a pencil" :-)

It is being used to secure the outer of the choke cable at the carbs.
I have seen all sorts of things used for this purpose but this looks to be
too well made to not be correct.
Can anyone confirm that this is the correct part?

Thanks.

M

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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-- 

Best wishes 

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Fri Nov 15 16:18:47 2019
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 12:18:47 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help
In-Reply-To: <CAL1Oyxd_pJiimk8rY3_jHeYxfa_nBKO+_FQCVwq8jNDsZ-WYYw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLFhX0k-K22BkRtYAVxN78stUe4CiCm_iAr03aV=UxKrA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL1Oyxd_pJiimk8rY3_jHeYxfa_nBKO+_FQCVwq8jNDsZ-WYYw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <921E13C7514447C0A1911DD62702C71C@MarkPC>

Oops, I'll have another go  . . .
 
I agree that it appears to be the abutment 1B 2718.  The one in my June 1956
BN2 has a slot in the clamping screw instead of the square drive shown in
Michael's photos.  That is the only difference.
 
Mark
Ardmore
NZ
 


  _____  

From: John Harper [mailto:ah100register at gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, 16 November 2019 11:15 a.m.
To: Michael Salter; Forum
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help


Michael 

I am fairly sure that this is the fitting that holds the outer cable of the
choke. It holds the cable outer to the bridge piece that fits to the inner
side of the bolts that hold the filters in place. The inner of the choke
goes though the stirrup made of wire that has its outers on small fittings
fitted to the two choke arms.

I believe that the BMC part number might be 1B 2718


Best regards

On Fri, 15 Nov 2019 at 18:07, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:


I have been trying to identify this cable abutment that is in use on a BN1
that I'm working on.
image.png

image.png

I know someone will say "It's a pencil" :-)

It is being used to secure the outer of the choke cable at the carbs.
I have seen all sorts of things used for this purpose but this looks to be
too well made to not be correct.
Can anyone confirm that this is the correct part?

Thanks.

M

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com





-- 

Best wishes 

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri Nov 15 16:47:40 2019
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 10:47:40 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLFhX0k-K22BkRtYAVxN78stUe4CiCm_iAr03aV=UxKrA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLFhX0k-K22BkRtYAVxN78stUe4CiCm_iAr03aV=UxKrA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00ac01d59c0f$1249b300$36dd1900$@tpg.com.au>

Hello Mike

 

Just checked the abutment in the BN3 and have attached a photo I took just a few minutes ago.

 

This is much more enjoyable than watching the smoke and flames from bushfires.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, 16 November 2019 5:07 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help

 

I have been trying to identify this cable abutment that is in use on a BN1 that I'm working on.

image.png

 

image.png

I know someone will say "It's a pencil" :-)

It is being used to secure the outer of the choke cable at the carbs.

I have seen all sorts of things used for this purpose but this looks to be too well made to not be correct.

Can anyone confirm that this is the correct part?

 

Thanks.

 

M

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 15 17:11:52 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 16:11:52 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 100 Part Identification Help
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeQEkWiG8VxwxrqL=XTM7bbCotxAmkdykEiGrV9LEfM3cA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLFhX0k-K22BkRtYAVxN78stUe4CiCm_iAr03aV=UxKrA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeQEkWiG8VxwxrqL=XTM7bbCotxAmkdykEiGrV9LEfM3cA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz897wVJ0pEE2zFd2FP8z+S54PNR7z_Xe_yEt+YD3QZXiCw@mail.gmail.com>

Looks like a choke stop on HD6 carbs

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Fri, Nov 15, 2019, 11:32 AM Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Michael,
>
> I'm certain that I know most aloof the parts on a 100, and this one does
> not look familiar to me.
>
> I'm stumped!
>
> Curt
>
> On Fri, Nov 15, 2019 at 10:18 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I have been trying to identify this cable abutment that is in use on a
>> BN1 that I'm working on.
>> [image: image.png]
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>> I know someone will say "It's a pencil" :-)
>> It is being used to secure the outer of the choke cable at the carbs.
>> I have seen all sorts of things used for this purpose but this looks to
>> be too well made to not be correct.
>> Can anyone confirm that this is the correct part?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> M
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From linwoodrose at mac.com  Fri Nov 15 17:24:42 2019
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose)
Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2019 19:24:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet striker pin assembly
Message-ID: <E2CABD3C-BD8F-4CC8-82E7-B92ACAE79947@mac.com>

I mounted my bonnet after a total disassembly and then restoration of my car a little more than ten years ago. I recall that getting things aligned properly was a bit fiddly. I am now installing a different bonnet (long story) and my photos, indexing holes and etc. are only somewhat helpful since the ?new? bonnet doesn?t have the indexing holes and the alignment is a little different.

I have the bonnet secured to the hinges and it seems to be fitting pretty well side-to-side and front-to-back. Of course, the front is a little low since the striker assembly is not yet mounted. Can anyone who has been through this offer any tips or suggestions on how to best proceed? Alternatively, pointing me to a reference on this subject would be great. There sure isn?t much of anything in the shop manual about it.

Thanks as always!

Sent from my iPad
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From ah100register at gmail.com  Sat Nov 16 02:34:53 2019
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 09:34:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet striker pin assembly
In-Reply-To: <E2CABD3C-BD8F-4CC8-82E7-B92ACAE79947@mac.com>
References: <E2CABD3C-BD8F-4CC8-82E7-B92ACAE79947@mac.com>
Message-ID: <CAL1Oyxdt2qbF1Q290u4AW-Adp7j2ohu=r1JYOoqc2S10KO6opw@mail.gmail.com>

Linwood

I cannot suggest the best way of fitting but be very careful. It is easy to
get the bonnet/hood stuck in the closed position and there is no easy way
to get under the bonnet to release it if gets jammed. I had to use a little
brute force to release mine and then touch up the paint.

Best regards

On Sat, 16 Nov 2019 at 00:27, Linwood Rose via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I mounted my bonnet after a total disassembly and then restoration of my
> car a little more than ten years ago. I recall that getting things aligned
> properly was a bit fiddly. I am now installing a different bonnet (long
> story) and my photos, indexing holes and etc. are only somewhat helpful
> since the ?new? bonnet doesn?t have the indexing holes and the alignment is
> a little different.
>
> I have the bonnet secured to the hinges and it seems to be fitting pretty
> well side-to-side and front-to-back. Of course, the front is a little low
> since the striker assembly is not yet mounted. Can anyone who has been
> through this offer any tips or suggestions on how to best proceed?
> Alternatively, pointing me to a reference on this subject would be great.
> There sure isn?t much of anything in the shop manual about it.
>
> Thanks as always!
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Nov 16 17:09:11 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sat, 16 Nov 2019 19:09:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ford vs...
References: <DB20DC31-4841-4A9D-B302-01B7E00A2246.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <DB20DC31-4841-4A9D-B302-01B7E00A2246@aol.com>

Just saw the movie. Put a small spanner on my key chain to remember Ken Miles and a perfect lap. 
P

Sent from my iPhone

From mkgoodman at att.net  Sun Nov 17 12:46:23 2019
From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 14:46:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ford vs Ferrari
References: <A821DB13-4361-4C2C-9396-866A595F1C52.ref@att.net>
Message-ID: <A821DB13-4361-4C2C-9396-866A595F1C52@att.net>

I saw it yesterday and loved it.  Great story and the integration of the footwork with the driving was excellent.  I highly recommend it for anyone who drives on the track!!

From manifold at telus.net  Sun Nov 17 13:04:34 2019
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 12:04:34 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Intake to Exhaust Manifold Gasket
Message-ID: <414270BAB92141069A90104BF3EB184B@AllInOne>

Hello,
 
I need the advise of this esteemed forum once again.I was dry fitting the
exhaust and intake manifold and noted the holes didn't line up properly on
the head side. I used washers as shims until the holes lined up and ended up
with a 0.171" gap between the two manifolds. See the pictures. The Moss
gasket I have (021-429) is 0.047" thick. It would require 3-4 gaskets to
properly fill the gap. Is there another gasket that is thicker? The BMC part
number for the gasket is AEC950. I seem to remember the original gasket was
thicker but it got destroyed during disassembly. Is this a case of switching
to a non-asbestos modern gasket material?
 
One solution is to use multiple gaskets. Is there a better solution? Car is
a 1960 BT7 Mk1 2 Carb.
 
Thanks ... Harold
 
 
 
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From david at dleong.org  Sun Nov 17 13:12:07 2019
From: david at dleong.org (David Leong)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 20:12:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Ford vs Ferrari
In-Reply-To: <A821DB13-4361-4C2C-9396-866A595F1C52@att.net>
References: <A821DB13-4361-4C2C-9396-866A595F1C52.ref@att.net>
 <A821DB13-4361-4C2C-9396-866A595F1C52@att.net>
Message-ID: <738b61784c3f4605bab0342f4a0dfa66@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro>

I'm never going to complain about any racing movie... (well, ok, Driven....), but if it is half way decent I'll support it.

This one was good, and I'll see it more than once, but I rank it 6th after Grand Prix, LeMans, Senna, Rush, Cars.

Did GT40's have speedometers???

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Mark Goodman
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2019 11:46 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Ford vs Ferrari


I saw it yesterday and loved it.  Great story and the integration of the footwork with the driving was excellent.  I highly recommend it for anyone who drives on the track!!
_______________________________________________

From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Nov 17 14:45:48 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 16:45:48 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Birthday
References: <D50E6643-9AF8-40C5-BAEA-9161B98795E9.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D50E6643-9AF8-40C5-BAEA-9161B98795E9@aol.com>



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Sent from my iPhone

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Nov 17 22:50:52 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 17 Nov 2019 21:50:52 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Intake to Exhaust Manifold Gasket
In-Reply-To: <414270BAB92141069A90104BF3EB184B@AllInOne>
References: <414270BAB92141069A90104BF3EB184B@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <60fe3990-b260-a1cc-1ec8-c5fe88218f1c@comcast.net>

Harold,

The gap you achieved looks normal to me.? I have similar on my BJ8, 
which I overhauled a couple years ago.? The gaskets I purchased from 
Moss were much thicker--I didn't measure them, but I recall thinking 
they were between 1/8" and 1/4"--than the ones in your photo, and they 
looked like cork impregnated with something (looked like rubber, but 
that can't be, can it?).? Seeing that Moss charges almost $5 for the 
thin gaskets in your photo, stacking 3-4ea in each 'gap' would amount to 
a ridiculous amount of money for them.? When I rebuilt my engine a long 
time ago, the gaskets kinda disintegrated over time anyway, and I didn't 
see any ill effect.? In a V-type engine (6 or 8) with a carburettor, hot 
coolant gets circulated around the base of the carburetter to offset 
'carb icing' due to the cooling effect of the fuel being vaporized (my 
dad's '55 T-Bird has a flapper valve that gates hot exhaust gas to the 
carb, and is supposed to shut off when the engine gets hot but I doubt 
it works properly after all these years).? Anyway, the intake manifold 
is stacked on the exhaust because 1) the exhaust manifold heats the 
intake to offset the evaporative cooling effect and 2) that's the only 
place it can go (unless you have a 'cross-flow' head design, like on the 
100S engine).?? I can only guess the gasket is there to somehow modulate 
the heating effect but, since it's just a damn gasket there isn't much 
it can do.

I'd call Tom Monaco at Tom's Import Toys and ask him.? He's a Moss 
reseller--at a 10% discount--and may have a (very colorful) 
explanation.? Otherwise, check around and see if anybody has the 
'proper' thick gasket and, if not, you can either pay Moss' ransom or do 
without them.

Bob

On 11/17/2019 12:04 PM, Harold Manifold wrote:
> Hello,
> I need the advise of this esteemed forum once again.I was dry fitting 
> the exhaust and intake manifold and noted the holes didn't line up 
> properly on the head side. I used washers as shims until the holes 
> lined up and ended up with a 0.171" gap between the two manifolds. See 
> the pictures. The Moss gasket I have (021-429) is 0.047" thick. It 
> would require 3-4 gaskets to properly fill the gap. Is there another 
> gasket that is thicker? The BMC part number for the gasket is AEC950. 
> I seem to remember the original gasket was thicker but it got 
> destroyed during disassembly. Is this a?case of switching to a 
> non-asbestos modern gasket material?
> One solution is to use multiple gaskets. Is there a better solution? 
> Car is a 1960 BT7 Mk1 2 Carb.
> Thanks ... Harold
>

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From linwoodrose at mac.com  Mon Nov 18 16:16:43 2019
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose)
Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2019 23:16:43 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet Striker Pin Assembly - Follow-up
Message-ID: <9fee0d3e-2cf0-4ad9-ba76-4c842e679df0@me.com>

Just a word of thanks to those who responded to my appeal for tips to install the striker pin assembly for the bonnet. I appreciate all responses but especially wanted to thank Roland Wilhelmy for reminding me about Roger Moment's article entitled "trial-fitting Individual Parts." Roger's suggestions about how to install the pin assembly are detailed and offer warnings on what to do to avoid problems.

Kent Lacy suggested?"covering the striker hole with tape. Run your finger around the taped hole until it?s visible. Put a drop of paint on the tip of the striker and close the bonnet slowly until the paint drop is in the center of the hole on the tape. Replace tape each time it?s not correct. Trust me you want it to work the first time." I did this and found this to be a great tip.?? The photo shows my first attempt, but I was then?able to easily adjust the position of the pin to get it centered. The unlocking mechanism then worked perfectly on the first attempt. Thank you, Kent!

Healy Rick suggested doing basically the same thing by getting under the car and looking up to see if the tip of the striker pin was in the center of the retaining plate, but while this would certainly work, the tape was very easy and probably more precise.

Thanks to all,

Lin Rose
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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Nov 18 19:13:54 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 02:13:54 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Ford vs...
In-Reply-To: <DB20DC31-4841-4A9D-B302-01B7E00A2246@aol.com>
References: <DB20DC31-4841-4A9D-B302-01B7E00A2246.ref@aol.com>,
 <DB20DC31-4841-4A9D-B302-01B7E00A2246@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB343215D85C3F4F9B68313271A54C0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

As with all movies the story had to be considerably edited for time. If you want the whole story read the book it was based on, Go Like Hell by A.J Baime.

A great read.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2019 12:09 AM
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Ford vs...

Just saw the movie. Put a small spanner on my key chain to remember Ken Miles and a perfect lap.
P

Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Nov 19 02:39:25 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 10:39:25 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Bonnet Striker Pin Assembly - Follow-up
In-Reply-To: <9fee0d3e-2cf0-4ad9-ba76-4c842e679df0@me.com>
References: <9fee0d3e-2cf0-4ad9-ba76-4c842e679df0@me.com>
Message-ID: <e76502b1-2937-6c2c-d547-45c67d2a2894@chello.nl>

In theory very correct, however there is always some lateral movement in 
the spring loaded pin which means the pin is not always in the centre, 
which makes it a bit complicated to align. It is always a bit "hit and 
miss". It is why the receptor has a conical shape.

Using this method is a very good way to start, but final small 
corrections may be needed.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 19-11-2019 om 00:16 schreef Linwood Rose via Healeys:
> Just a word of thanks to those who responded to my appeal for tips to 
> install the striker pin assembly for the bonnet. I appreciate all 
> responses but especially wanted to thank Roland Wilhelmy for reminding 
> me about Roger Moment's article entitled "trial-fitting Individual 
> Parts." Roger's suggestions about how to install the pin assembly are 
> detailed and offer warnings on what to do to avoid problems.
>
> Kent Lacy suggested?"covering the striker hole with tape. Run your 
> finger around the taped hole until it?s visible. Put a drop of paint 
> on the tip of the striker and close the bonnet slowly until the paint 
> drop is in the center of the hole on the tape. Replace tape each time 
> it?s not correct. Trust me you want it to work the first time." I did 
> this and found this to be a great tip. The photo shows my first 
> attempt, but I was then?able to easily adjust the position of the pin 
> to get it centered. The unlocking mechanism then worked perfectly on 
> the first attempt. Thank you, Kent!
>
> Healy Rick suggested doing basically the same thing by getting under 
> the car and looking up to see if the tip of the striker pin was in the 
> center of the retaining plate, but while this would certainly work, 
> the tape was very easy and probably more precise.
>
> Thanks to all,
>
> Lin Rose
> Striker Pin Assembly Install.jpg
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From fredwescoe at gmail.com  Tue Nov 19 14:34:46 2019
From: fredwescoe at gmail.com (Fred Wescoe)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 16:34:46 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Cold weather work
Message-ID: <CAPAC+V4sdkd2JGM22ChYw0LCbXT1+Va9+zeS8OG-8Gp04T+O5w@mail.gmail.com>

Listers,

I am starting to do some of the cold weather work on my BJ8 and I have 2
questions.

1.  My choke cable is extremely difficult to pull out, it takes both hands
on the knob to move the knob out far enough to activate the chokes.  What
is the best/easy way to access the old cable for removal?  I have a new
choke cable to install but how do I route the new cable around behind the
dash so there are no kinks (I suspect that is my current problem) and to
avoid the heater/defroster hoses and anything else which may be in the
way.  I would like to get the new cable in so that it works smoothly and
with just one hand.  Should I use grease or graphite on the cable to help?
Ideas?  "I did it this way and it worked great."  Tips and tricks?

2.   A couple of months ago, I had an issue with my downpipes that came
loose from the exhaust manifold.  On the down pipes, I removed the brass
nuts and split washers and replaced them with new stuff.  Upon close
inspection, I now find that the intake and exhaust manifolds have also
worked loose from the head.  However, on the manifolds, there is a flat
washer against the manifolds, then a split washer and then the brass nut.
Which is the correct method of assembly; flat washer then split washer and
brass nut, no split washer or no flat washer.  Should the downpipes be
bolted together the same as the exhaust/intake manifolds to the head? What
is causing these exhaust parts to come loose and what do I do to prevent
this from happening?  What is the thinking of those who have rebuilt
engines and what has worked?

Thanks for the collective wisdom here.

Fred
66BJ8
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From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Tue Nov 19 15:04:42 2019
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Tue, 19 Nov 2019 17:04:42 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Cold weather work
In-Reply-To: <CAPAC+V4sdkd2JGM22ChYw0LCbXT1+Va9+zeS8OG-8Gp04T+O5w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPAC+V4sdkd2JGM22ChYw0LCbXT1+Va9+zeS8OG-8Gp04T+O5w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <dd1d7fa3-790a-eb0a-1edf-9fd48833604e@htcnet.org>

As I understand the parts manual when I did mine (always questionable)? 
there are 10 brass nuts and plain washers at all mountings for the 
exhaust manifold, including the ones that overlap the intake manifold.? 
The intake manifold uses plain washers with spring washers and a steel nut.
Have not had the problem of the downpipes coming loose, but have heard 
others have; someone may have a solution to that.

As to the choke cable; stiffness on mine was due to the brass cam shoe 
on the carburetor being very hard to move, cleaning and lube helped there.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 11/19/2019 4:34 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I am starting to do some of the cold weather work on my BJ8 and I have 
> 2 questions.
>
> 1.? My choke cable is extremely difficult to pull out, it takes both 
> hands on the knob to move the knob out far enough to activate the 
> chokes.? What is the best/easy way to access the old cable for 
> removal?? I have a new choke cable to install but how do I route the 
> new cable around behind the dash so there are no kinks (I suspect that 
> is my current problem) and to avoid the heater/defroster hoses and 
> anything else which may be in the way.? I would like to get the new 
> cable in so that it works smoothly and with just one hand. Should I 
> use grease or graphite on the cable to help?? Ideas? "I did it this 
> way and it worked great."? Tips and tricks?
>
> 2.? ?A couple of months ago, I had an issue with?my downpipes that 
> came loose from the exhaust manifold.? On the down pipes, I removed 
> the brass nuts and split washers and replaced them with new stuff.? 
> Upon close inspection, I now find that the intake and exhaust 
> manifolds have also worked loose from the head.? However, on the 
> manifolds, there is a flat washer against the manifolds, then a split 
> washer and then the brass nut.? Which is the correct method of 
> assembly; flat washer then split washer and brass nut, no split washer 
> or no flat washer.? Should the downpipes be bolted together the same 
> as the exhaust/intake manifolds to the head? What is causing these 
> exhaust parts to come loose and what do I do to prevent this from 
> happening?? What is the thinking of those who have rebuilt engines and 
> what has worked?
>
> Thanks for the collective wisdom here.
>
> Fred
> 66BJ8
>



From britfan1 at epix.net  Wed Nov 20 13:06:31 2019
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S. Carr)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 15:06:31 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ford vs...
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR07MB343215D85C3F4F9B68313271A54C0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DB20DC31-4841-4A9D-B302-01B7E00A2246.ref@aol.com>,
 <DB20DC31-4841-4A9D-B302-01B7E00A2246@aol.com>
 <CY4PR07MB343215D85C3F4F9B68313271A54C0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <BBCABEB874564061A853AA7AF6C0147E@HomePC>

Saw the movie a few days ago when I was at Daytona for the Classic 24 Hours with a friend who is an old-time (Can-Am & IMSA) racing mechanic.  His comment was that those who have been in professional racing will notice the incongruities and the "artistic license" taken; the rest of us will just enjoy the movie!  And the book is definitely worth reading for the deeper background.

Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE 
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2019 9:13 PM
To: healeys ; Perry Small 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ford vs...

As with all movies the story had to be considerably edited for time. If you want the whole story read the book it was based on, Go Like Hell by A.J Baime. 

A great read.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2019 12:09 AM
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Ford vs... 

Just saw the movie. Put a small spanner on my key chain to remember Ken Miles and a perfect lap. 


P
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Wed Nov 20 19:51:00 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Wed, 20 Nov 2019 18:51:00 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Cold weather work
In-Reply-To: <dd1d7fa3-790a-eb0a-1edf-9fd48833604e@htcnet.org>
References: <CAPAC+V4sdkd2JGM22ChYw0LCbXT1+Va9+zeS8OG-8Gp04T+O5w@mail.gmail.com>
 <dd1d7fa3-790a-eb0a-1edf-9fd48833604e@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <14eb01d5a016$83e7f840$8bb7e8c0$@roadrunner.com>

Checking the 6 brass nuts on the flex pipes to manifold are on my annual maintenance checklist.  In my experience, they will occasionally work loose.  I've not had a problem with the manifolds themselves, which are installed as John describes.  

Replacing the choke cable was very straight forward on my BN7 but perhaps access on a BJ8 dash is a bit more restricted.  Gentle "S" curves are the key.  Shooting some aerosol lube down the cable couldn't hurt, I would think. 

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Vrugtman
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2019 2:05 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Cold weather work

As I understand the parts manual when I did mine (always questionable) there are 10 brass nuts and plain washers at all mountings for the exhaust manifold, including the ones that overlap the intake manifold. The intake manifold uses plain washers with spring washers and a steel nut.
Have not had the problem of the downpipes coming loose, but have heard others have; someone may have a solution to that.

As to the choke cable; stiffness on mine was due to the brass cam shoe on the carburetor being very hard to move, cleaning and lube helped there.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 11/19/2019 4:34 PM, Fred Wescoe wrote:
> Listers,
>
> I am starting to do some of the cold weather work on my BJ8 and I have
> 2 questions.
>
> 1.  My choke cable is extremely difficult to pull out, it takes both 
> hands on the knob to move the knob out far enough to activate the 
> chokes.  What is the best/easy way to access the old cable for 
> removal?  I have a new choke cable to install but how do I route the 
> new cable around behind the dash so there are no kinks (I suspect that 
> is my current problem) and to avoid the heater/defroster hoses and 
> anything else which may be in the way.  I would like to get the new 
> cable in so that it works smoothly and with just one hand. Should I 
> use grease or graphite on the cable to help?  Ideas? "I did it this 
> way and it worked great."  Tips and tricks?
>
> 2.   A couple of months ago, I had an issue with my downpipes that 
> came loose from the exhaust manifold.  On the down pipes, I removed 
> the brass nuts and split washers and replaced them with new stuff.
> Upon close inspection, I now find that the intake and exhaust 
> manifolds have also worked loose from the head.  However, on the 
> manifolds, there is a flat washer against the manifolds, then a split 
> washer and then the brass nut.  Which is the correct method of 
> assembly; flat washer then split washer and brass nut, no split washer 
> or no flat washer.  Should the downpipes be bolted together the same 
> as the exhaust/intake manifolds to the head? What is causing these 
> exhaust parts to come loose and what do I do to prevent this from 
> happening?  What is the thinking of those who have rebuilt engines and 
> what has worked?
>
> Thanks for the collective wisdom here.
>
> Fred
> 66BJ8
>


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Thu Nov 21 09:41:31 2019
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 08:41:31 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?knock?=
Message-ID: <20191121164131.10914.qmail@server278.com>

before i tear my engine down i am going out one more time to see if anyone has ever encountered this condition before and 
the remedy.  after about 500 miles on rebuilt engine detected a knock near front of engine.  two conditions have to be met 
for this knock to occur.  engine oil must be hot and it must have set for 10-20 minutes.  will not knock on cold engine or 
upon immediate restart.  knock ceases immediatly when oil pressure builds have plastigaged rods and the two middle main 
bearings.  have checked all new lifters, pushrods and valve train.  installed a new timing chain tensioner and damper.  oil 
pump about 5 years old.   have had piston slap and wrist pin suggested as culprit.  any ideas?

From bluehealey at gmail.com  Thu Nov 21 09:48:54 2019
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 16:48:54 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] knock
In-Reply-To: <20191121164131.10914.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20191121164131.10914.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <026d01d5a08b$90c89360$b259ba20$@gmail.com>

A little off the wall but, have you checked the front pulley nut for
tightness?
AlanB
Bluehealey

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
healeymanjim
Sent: 21 November 2019 16:42
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] knock

before i tear my engine down i am going out one more time to see if anyone
has ever encountered this condition before and 
the remedy.  after about 500 miles on rebuilt engine detected a knock near
front of engine.  two conditions have to be met 
for this knock to occur.  engine oil must be hot and it must have set for
10-20 minutes.  will not knock on cold engine or 
upon immediate restart.  knock ceases immediatly when oil pressure builds
have plastigaged rods and the two middle main 
bearings.  have checked all new lifters, pushrods and valve train.
installed a new timing chain tensioner and damper.  oil 
pump about 5 years old.   have had piston slap and wrist pin suggested as
culprit.  any ideas?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Thu Nov 21 09:54:50 2019
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 08:54:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] knock
In-Reply-To: <026d01d5a08b$90c89360$b259ba20$@gmail.com>
References: <20191121164131.10914.qmail@server278.com>
 <026d01d5a08b$90c89360$b259ba20$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7449DB863C5842319A830F694DCBECDF@DavidNockHP>

Not likely the crank pulley will usually make a klunking noise at idle and 
oil pressure will not make a diffenence.




David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
-----Original Message----- 
From: Bluehealey
Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2019 8:48 AM
To: 'healeymanjim' ; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] knock

A little off the wall but, have you checked the front pulley nut for
tightness?
AlanB
Bluehealey

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
healeymanjim
Sent: 21 November 2019 16:42
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] knock

before i tear my engine down i am going out one more time to see if anyone
has ever encountered this condition before and
the remedy.  after about 500 miles on rebuilt engine detected a knock near
front of engine.  two conditions have to be met
for this knock to occur.  engine oil must be hot and it must have set for
10-20 minutes.  will not knock on cold engine or
upon immediate restart.  knock ceases immediatly when oil pressure builds
have plastigaged rods and the two middle main
bearings.  have checked all new lifters, pushrods and valve train.
installed a new timing chain tensioner and damper.  oil
pump about 5 years old.   have had piston slap and wrist pin suggested as
culprit.  any ideas?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Nov 21 10:06:04 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 18:06:04 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] knock
In-Reply-To: <20191121164131.10914.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20191121164131.10914.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <6f7aab25-5dcd-f207-14af-a592f711b32c@chello.nl>

If the noise disappears as soon as there is oil pressure it must be a 
bearing, main, big end, possibly camshaft (however not likely) which may 
have slightly high tolerances. When the oil is hot it is thin and drains 
away from the bearings, hence the noise with a hot engine and a restart 
after a few minutes. As it disappears as soon there is oil pressure I 
would not worry to much.

You could try Lucas oil stabilizer and see if there is any difference.


Kees Oudesluijs



Op 21-11-2019 om 17:41 schreef healeymanjim:
> before i tear my engine down i am going out one more time to see if anyone has ever encountered this condition before and
> the remedy.  after about 500 miles on rebuilt engine detected a knock near front of engine.  two conditions have to be met
> for this knock to occur.  engine oil must be hot and it must have set for 10-20 minutes.  will not knock on cold engine or
> upon immediate restart.  knock ceases immediatly when oil pressure builds have plastigaged rods and the two middle main
> bearings.  have checked all new lifters, pushrods and valve train.  installed a new timing chain tensioner and damper.  oil
> pump about 5 years old.   have had piston slap and wrist pin suggested as culprit.  any ideas?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Nov 21 10:22:07 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 21 Nov 2019 12:22:07 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] knock
In-Reply-To: <20191121164131.10914.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20191121164131.10914.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+OsE29zkLe0KOrGo-wN=--U0AechT4r4+1GzQQbJ-+-A@mail.gmail.com>

I would suggest doing the test ... hot oil and start after 10-20 minutes...
each time with a different plug wire off.
Might help in determining if one cylinder (pistin, big end etc.) is at
fault.

M

On Thu, Nov 21, 2019, 11:41 AM healeymanjim, <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
wrote:

> before i tear my engine down i am going out one more time to see if anyone
> has ever encountered this condition before and
> the remedy.  after about 500 miles on rebuilt engine detected a knock near
> front of engine.  two conditions have to be met
> for this knock to occur.  engine oil must be hot and it must have set for
> 10-20 minutes.  will not knock on cold engine or
> upon immediate restart.  knock ceases immediatly when oil pressure builds
> have plastigaged rods and the two middle main
> bearings.  have checked all new lifters, pushrods and valve train.
> installed a new timing chain tensioner and damper.  oil
> pump about 5 years old.   have had piston slap and wrist pin suggested as
> culprit.  any ideas?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Nov 23 02:48:03 2019
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 20:48:03 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....
Message-ID: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Currently there is a BN2 sharing garage space in my barn with the BN3 and
the Healey Duncan.

 

Normally I can work through problems with the relatively simple auto
electrical systems fitted to our Healeys and Austin-Healeys, but this one
has me stumped.

 

The indicators of the BN2 refuse to work so I have been head down, tail up
trying to work it out. The RHD car is negative earth and apart from a modern
plastic cased flasher can it's quite standard.

 

Now this is curious. Turn on ignition and everything is fine with the fuel
gauge reading half full. Switch on the left indicator which doesn't work,
but the fuel gauge needle drops to empty. Turn off indicator and after a
second the fuel gauge needle goes back to half. Turn on right indicator and
the same happens. I'm concerned that the smoke is going to escape!

 

No amount of looking at the wiring diagram gives me a clue

 

Any suggestions?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

 

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Sat Nov 23 03:52:55 2019
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 05:52:55 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Wheel Cylinders
Message-ID: <090c01d5a1ec$29fcba00$7df62e00$@gmail.com>

I seem to recall conversation on the quality of rear wheel cylinders.  My
BJ8 had not been driven in 2 years due to engine rebuild and now the rear
wheel cylinders are leaking fluid all over my new tires and recently painted
wire wheels.  Does Moss ore anyone offer cylinders which are reliable?

 

Bob Begani

BJ8 67

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Nov 23 05:03:56 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 13:03:56 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....
In-Reply-To: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <d42306a7-3431-d5e5-dda4-4c80d8c3e85b@chello.nl>

Bad earth connection somewhere under the dash.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 23-11-2019 om 10:48 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
>
> Hello
>
> Currently there is a BN2 sharing garage space in my barn with the BN3 
> and the Healey Duncan.
>
> Normally I can work through problems with the relatively simple auto 
> electrical systems fitted to our Healeys and Austin-Healeys, but this 
> one has me stumped.
>
> The indicators of the BN2 refuse to work so I have been head down, 
> tail up trying to work it out. The RHD car is negative earth and apart 
> from a modern plastic cased flasher can it?s quite standard.
>
> Now this is curious. Turn on ignition and everything is fine with the 
> fuel gauge reading half full. Switch on the left indicator which 
> doesn?t work, but the fuel gauge needle drops to empty. Turn off 
> indicator and after a second the fuel gauge needle goes back to half. 
> Turn on right indicator and the same happens. I?m concerned that the 
> smoke is going to escape!
>
> No amount of looking at the wiring diagram gives me a clue
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Nov 23 05:10:50 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 13:10:50 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Wheel Cylinders
In-Reply-To: <090c01d5a1ec$29fcba00$7df62e00$@gmail.com>
References: <090c01d5a1ec$29fcba00$7df62e00$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <dd202074-ba22-a717-b0ef-537fcbb0a9a1@chello.nl>

It is probably not the quality of the cylinders or seals but more the 
lack of exercise that is causing the leakage. Also the way the cylinders 
have been reassembled in the past may be the cause. If they have been 
assembled using clean brake fluid instead of the special 
Girling/Lockheed/At? grease for assembling brake cylinders the chance is 
that the cylinder walls and/or pistons are corroded causing the leak.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 23-11-2019 om 11:52 schreef Robert Begani:
>
> I seem to recall conversation on the quality of rear wheel cylinders. 
> ?My BJ8 had not been driven in 2 years due to engine rebuild and now 
> the rear wheel cylinders are leaking fluid all over my new tires and 
> recently painted wire wheels.? Does Moss ore anyone offer cylinders 
> which are reliable?
>
> Bob Begani
>
> BJ8 67
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From ahmg at aol.com  Sat Nov 23 11:16:24 2019
From: ahmg at aol.com (Ken Fleming)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 13:16:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Fenders
References: <FB641C29-ED26-4261-B0C3-8253C6200D41.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <FB641C29-ED26-4261-B0C3-8253C6200D41@aol.com>

Has anyone on the list had a success with fenders from any of the normal suppliers including AH Spares? Most such as Moss only offer BN2 and not steel.  AhSpares makes their own panels. Experience tells me that much fitting is required. 
Also if anyone on list has any original BN1 fenders contact me off list.
Ken

Sent from my iPhone

From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Nov 23 11:51:56 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 19:51:56 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Fenders
In-Reply-To: <FB641C29-ED26-4261-B0C3-8253C6200D41@aol.com>
References: <FB641C29-ED26-4261-B0C3-8253C6200D41.ref@aol.com>
 <FB641C29-ED26-4261-B0C3-8253C6200D41@aol.com>
Message-ID: <d0517aaa-269a-c234-70ff-54bdebe8089c@chello.nl>

A lot of work making replacement panels fit on the A-H is always 
required. Panels were selected at the factory for a specific car for 
best fitment and subsequently made to fit more or less properly. No 
panel, new or used , will fit perfectly first time!

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 23-11-2019 om 19:16 schreef Ken Fleming via Healeys:
> Has anyone on the list had a success with fenders from any of the normal suppliers including AH Spares? Most such as Moss only offer BN2 and not steel.  AhSpares makes their own panels. Experience tells me that much fitting is required.
> Also if anyone on list has any original BN1 fenders contact me off list.
> Ken
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>

From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Nov 23 15:40:34 2019
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 09:40:34 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....
In-Reply-To: <d42306a7-3431-d5e5-dda4-4c80d8c3e85b@chello.nl>
References: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>
 <d42306a7-3431-d5e5-dda4-4c80d8c3e85b@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <004401d5a24f$063c5130$12b4f390$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Thanks to everyone who replied and I will look further at it today. 

 

However I'm wondering if the original Lucas flasher cans are polarity
sensitive?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees
Oudesluijs
Sent: Saturday, 23 November 2019 11:04 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....

 

Bad earth connection somewhere under the dash.

Kees Oudesluijs

 

 

Op 23-11-2019 om 10:48 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:

Hello

 

Currently there is a BN2 sharing garage space in my barn with the BN3 and
the Healey Duncan.

 

Normally I can work through problems with the relatively simple auto
electrical systems fitted to our Healeys and Austin-Healeys, but this one
has me stumped.

 

The indicators of the BN2 refuse to work so I have been head down, tail up
trying to work it out. The RHD car is negative earth and apart from a modern
plastic cased flasher can it's quite standard.

 

Now this is curious. Turn on ignition and everything is fine with the fuel
gauge reading half full. Switch on the left indicator which doesn't work,
but the fuel gauge needle drops to empty. Turn off indicator and after a
second the fuel gauge needle goes back to half. Turn on right indicator and
the same happens. I'm concerned that the smoke is going to escape!

 

No amount of looking at the wiring diagram gives me a clue

 

Any suggestions?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

 





_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
 
Healeys at autox.team.net
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sat Nov 23 15:47:47 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 17:47:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....
In-Reply-To: <004401d5a24f$063c5130$12b4f390$@tpg.com.au>
References: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>
 <d42306a7-3431-d5e5-dda4-4c80d8c3e85b@chello.nl>
 <004401d5a24f$063c5130$12b4f390$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+7usnYO8XOS0mKw9of_Onc=2tcQLnbeamgp6d-2SOGZA@mail.gmail.com>

No they aren't Patrick but they don't like being subjected to a dead short
so should ALWAYS be on a fused circuit.
Don't ask me how I know ?

M


On Sat, Nov 23, 2019, 5:40 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> Hello
>
>
>
> Thanks to everyone who replied and I will look further at it today.
>
>
>
> However I?m wondering if the original Lucas flasher cans are polarity
> sensitive?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Kees
> Oudesluijs
> *Sent:* Saturday, 23 November 2019 11:04 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....
>
>
>
> Bad earth connection somewhere under the dash.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>
>
> Op 23-11-2019 om 10:48 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
>
> Hello
>
>
>
> Currently there is a BN2 sharing garage space in my barn with the BN3 and
> the Healey Duncan.
>
>
>
> Normally I can work through problems with the relatively simple auto
> electrical systems fitted to our Healeys and Austin-Healeys, but this one
> has me stumped.
>
>
>
> The indicators of the BN2 refuse to work so I have been head down, tail up
> trying to work it out. The RHD car is negative earth and apart from a
> modern plastic cased flasher can it?s quite standard.
>
>
>
> Now this is curious. Turn on ignition and everything is fine with the fuel
> gauge reading half full. Switch on the left indicator which doesn?t work,
> but the fuel gauge needle drops to empty. Turn off indicator and after a
> second the fuel gauge needle goes back to half. Turn on right indicator and
> the same happens. I?m concerned that the smoke is going to escape!
>
>
>
> No amount of looking at the wiring diagram gives me a clue
>
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Sat Nov 23 16:56:11 2019
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 15:56:11 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....
In-Reply-To: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <19AC31D2-54A4-43BE-9D0B-CBFC9E5E010D@sbcglobal.net>

 As ground on the fuel gauge or the dash warning light 

David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 23, 2019, at 1:48 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Hello
>  
> Currently there is a BN2 sharing garage space in my barn with the BN3 and the Healey Duncan.
>  
> Normally I can work through problems with the relatively simple auto electrical systems fitted to our Healeys and Austin-Healeys, but this one has me stumped.
>  
> The indicators of the BN2 refuse to work so I have been head down, tail up trying to work it out. The RHD car is negative earth and apart from a modern plastic cased flasher can it?s quite standard.
>  
> Now this is curious. Turn on ignition and everything is fine with the fuel gauge reading half full. Switch on the left indicator which doesn?t work, but the fuel gauge needle drops to empty. Turn off indicator and after a second the fuel gauge needle goes back to half. Turn on right indicator and the same happens. I?m concerned that the smoke is going to escape!
>  
> No amount of looking at the wiring diagram gives me a clue
>  
> Any suggestions?
>  
> Hoo Roo
>  
> Patrick
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Sat Nov 23 16:56:11 2019
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 15:56:11 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....
In-Reply-To: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <19AC31D2-54A4-43BE-9D0B-CBFC9E5E010D@sbcglobal.net>

 As ground on the fuel gauge or the dash warning light 

David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 23, 2019, at 1:48 AM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Hello
>  
> Currently there is a BN2 sharing garage space in my barn with the BN3 and the Healey Duncan.
>  
> Normally I can work through problems with the relatively simple auto electrical systems fitted to our Healeys and Austin-Healeys, but this one has me stumped.
>  
> The indicators of the BN2 refuse to work so I have been head down, tail up trying to work it out. The RHD car is negative earth and apart from a modern plastic cased flasher can it?s quite standard.
>  
> Now this is curious. Turn on ignition and everything is fine with the fuel gauge reading half full. Switch on the left indicator which doesn?t work, but the fuel gauge needle drops to empty. Turn off indicator and after a second the fuel gauge needle goes back to half. Turn on right indicator and the same happens. I?m concerned that the smoke is going to escape!
>  
> No amount of looking at the wiring diagram gives me a clue
>  
> Any suggestions?
>  
> Hoo Roo
>  
> Patrick
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Nov 23 17:27:38 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 16:27:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Fenders
In-Reply-To: <FB641C29-ED26-4261-B0C3-8253C6200D41@aol.com>
References: <FB641C29-ED26-4261-B0C3-8253C6200D41.ref@aol.com>
 <FB641C29-ED26-4261-B0C3-8253C6200D41@aol.com>
Message-ID: <96671c1b-a722-1c61-2e15-840a3e7ece29@comcast.net>

I ordered a left front wing for a BN2 from Kilmartin in Australia (they 
probably have the best body kit available).? They sent me one for a BN1, 
so they should have them.? Shipping cost was reasonable but, of course, 
it was wrong for my car but was steel and looked like good quality (I 
ended up repairing the one we had; it didn't come out great).? They gave 
me a complete refund, and told me not to bother shipping it back; I 
think I still have it around somewhere if you want to come get it ;).

Bob

On 11/23/2019 10:16 AM, Ken Fleming via Healeys wrote:
> Has anyone on the list had a success with fenders from any of the normal suppliers including AH Spares? Most such as Moss only offer BN2 and not steel.  AhSpares makes their own panels. Experience tells me that much fitting is required.
> Also if anyone on list has any original BN1 fenders contact me off list.
> Ken
>
>
>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Nov 23 17:30:29 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 23 Nov 2019 16:30:29 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Fenders
In-Reply-To: <d0517aaa-269a-c234-70ff-54bdebe8089c@chello.nl>
References: <FB641C29-ED26-4261-B0C3-8253C6200D41.ref@aol.com>
 <FB641C29-ED26-4261-B0C3-8253C6200D41@aol.com>
 <d0517aaa-269a-c234-70ff-54bdebe8089c@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <bbb276ce-f61c-33df-47e7-01b9483d9bc6@comcast.net>

I read in a credible source--one of the Healey or other car mags--that 
the workers at the stamping plants would stamp as many as three at a 
time--I think they were only supposed to do one, maybe two at a 
time--which probably contributed to the ill fitting.

Bob

On 11/23/2019 10:51 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
> A lot of work making replacement panels fit on the A-H is always 
> required. Panels were selected at the factory for a specific car for 
> best fitment and subsequently made to fit more or less properly. No 
> panel, new or used , will fit perfectly first time!
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 23-11-2019 om 19:16 schreef Ken Fleming via Healeys:
>> Has anyone on the list had a success with fenders from any of the 
>> normal suppliers including AH Spares? Most such as Moss only offer 
>> BN2 and not steel.? AhSpares makes their own panels. Experience tells 
>> me that much fitting is required.
>> Also if anyone on list has any original BN1 fenders contact me off list.
>> Ken
>>


From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Nov 24 02:15:05 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 10:15:05 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....
In-Reply-To: <004401d5a24f$063c5130$12b4f390$@tpg.com.au>
References: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>
 <d42306a7-3431-d5e5-dda4-4c80d8c3e85b@chello.nl>
 <004401d5a24f$063c5130$12b4f390$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <7c8334f0-a767-62c9-7051-2b1fbc1115f3@chello.nl>

They should not be as they work according to the heated bimetal principle.

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 23-11-2019 om 23:40 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
>
> Hello
>
> Thanks to everyone who replied and I will look further at it today.
>
> However I?m wondering if the original Lucas flasher cans are polarity 
> sensitive?
>
> Hoo Roo
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Kees Oudesluijs
> *Sent:* Saturday, 23 November 2019 11:04 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....
>
> Bad earth connection somewhere under the dash.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
> Op 23-11-2019 om 10:48 schreef Patrick & Caroline Quinn:
>
>     Hello
>
>     Currently there is a BN2 sharing garage space in my barn with the
>     BN3 and the Healey Duncan.
>
>     Normally I can work through problems with the relatively simple
>     auto electrical systems fitted to our Healeys and Austin-Healeys,
>     but this one has me stumped.
>
>     The indicators of the BN2 refuse to work so I have been head down,
>     tail up trying to work it out. The RHD car is negative earth and
>     apart from a modern plastic cased flasher can it?s quite standard.
>
>     Now this is curious. Turn on ignition and everything is fine with
>     the fuel gauge reading half full. Switch on the left indicator
>     which doesn?t work, but the fuel gauge needle drops to empty. Turn
>     off indicator and after a second the fuel gauge needle goes back
>     to half. Turn on right indicator and the same happens. I?m
>     concerned that the smoke is going to escape!
>
>     No amount of looking at the wiring diagram gives me a clue
>
>     Any suggestions?
>
>     Hoo Roo
>
>     Patrick
>
>     Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Nov 24 16:52:04 2019
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 23:52:04 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] Modern Motor Magazine
Message-ID: <20191124.185204.18404.0@webmail07.dca.untd.com>

I have a copy of the March 1957 Modern Motor magazine with the airborne Austin Healey, on the cover (in color) caught by the camera in Norway's grueling Rally of the Midnight Sun. It is in very good condition for the age. First best offer, plus flat rate priority insured envelope. Thanks and a happy upcoming Thanksgiving. Doug
____________________________________________________________
74 Year Old Grandma Shocks Doctors: Forget Botox, Do This
removethewrinkles.com
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5ddb17ffd196617ff3752st02duc
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From rd_parker at juno.com  Mon Nov 25 10:36:51 2019
From: rd_parker at juno.com (rd_parker at juno.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 09:36:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Modern Motor Magazine
Message-ID: <AABQ72ELHA3276PS@smtpout01.vgs.untd.com>

A suggestion: why not give it away to the highest bidder on a raffle; you
could make more money that way.

Bob.

On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 23:52:04 GMT "dwflagg at juno.com" <dwflagg at juno.com>
writes:
I have a copy of the March 1957 Modern Motor magazine with the airborne
Austin Healey, on the cover (in color) caught by the camera in Norway's
grueling Rally of the Midnight Sun. It is in very good condition for the
age. First best offer, plus flat rate priority insured envelope. Thanks
and a happy upcoming Thanksgiving.

Doug


____________________________________________________________
74 Year Old Grandma Shocks Doctors: Forget Botox, Do This
removethewrinkles.com
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/5ddb17ffd196617ff3752st02duc
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From rv9aplane at gmail.com  Mon Nov 25 22:00:16 2019
From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 21:00:16 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
Message-ID: <4AB12101-8E13-4B0A-99EE-8A4523628260@gmail.com>

Hi all,
I am installing the trunk lining kit in my BJ8 and have watched the video from Moss on how to do it. They use a brush on adhesive that they say is available from Moss but it isn?t, just a spray adhesive. What do you all use for adhesive for the trunk kit and the carpeting kit?

Thanks, Bruce

Sent from my iPad

From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Nov 25 22:33:35 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 21:33:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <4AB12101-8E13-4B0A-99EE-8A4523628260@gmail.com>
References: <4AB12101-8E13-4B0A-99EE-8A4523628260@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b8c5a74b-801c-7d63-4df1-1ea86de497db@comcast.net>

This is the adhesive you seek:

*https://tinyurl.com/v2kpevr

*
On 11/25/2019 9:00 PM, Bruce Peters wrote:
> Hi all,
> I am installing the trunk lining kit in my BJ8 and have watched the video from Moss on how to do it. They use a brush on adhesive that they say is available from Moss but it isn?t, just a spray adhesive. What do you all use for adhesive for the trunk kit and the carpeting kit?
>
> Thanks, Bruce
>

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov 25 22:49:35 2019
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 21:49:35 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <b8c5a74b-801c-7d63-4df1-1ea86de497db@comcast.net>
References: <4AB12101-8E13-4B0A-99EE-8A4523628260@gmail.com>
 <b8c5a74b-801c-7d63-4df1-1ea86de497db@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000501d5a41d$48e71bd0$dab55370$@sbcglobal.net>

That is the best.

 

John

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2019 9:34 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive

 

This is the adhesive you seek:

https://tinyurl.com/v2kpevr



On 11/25/2019 9:00 PM, Bruce Peters wrote:

Hi all,
I am installing the trunk lining kit in my BJ8 and have watched the video from Moss on how to do it. They use a brush on adhesive that they say is available from Moss but it isn?t, just a spray adhesive. What do you all use for adhesive for the trunk kit and the carpeting kit?
 
Thanks, Bruce
 

 

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Mon Nov 25 23:29:18 2019
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 22:29:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <b8c5a74b-801c-7d63-4df1-1ea86de497db@comcast.net>
References: <4AB12101-8E13-4B0A-99EE-8A4523628260@gmail.com>
 <b8c5a74b-801c-7d63-4df1-1ea86de497db@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2fhptel8dctvq8hfillfiju12h1el2679o@4ax.com>

I agree.  Used it on BN1 #724 boot and cockpit.  Buy some cheap
brushes and use only in good ventilation.

-Roland

On Mon, 25 Nov 2019 21:33:35 -0800, you wrote:

>This is the adhesive you seek:
>
>*https://tinyurl.com/v2kpevr
>
>*
>On 11/25/2019 9:00 PM, Bruce Peters wrote:
>> Hi all,
>> I am installing the trunk lining kit in my BJ8 and have watched the video from Moss on how to do it. They use a brush on adhesive that they say is available from Moss but it isn?t, just a spray adhesive. What do you all use for adhesive for the trunk kit and the carpeting kit?
>>
>> Thanks, Bruce
>>

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Nov 26 01:07:56 2019
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 16:07:56 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....
In-Reply-To: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKMSCtw8oH0LRO6bqMg1L=824wO0b6GhUrt3G0haZRwQQ@mail.gmail.com>

Didja check the earth?

On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 5:48 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

> Hello
>
>
>
> Currently there is a BN2 sharing garage space in my barn with the BN3 and
> the Healey Duncan.
>
>
>
> Normally I can work through problems with the relatively simple auto
> electrical systems fitted to our Healeys and Austin-Healeys, but this one
> has me stumped.
>
>
>
> The indicators of the BN2 refuse to work so I have been head down, tail up
> trying to work it out. The RHD car is negative earth and apart from a
> modern plastic cased flasher can it?s quite standard.
>
>
>
> Now this is curious. Turn on ignition and everything is fine with the fuel
> gauge reading half full. Switch on the left indicator which doesn?t work,
> but the fuel gauge needle drops to empty. Turn off indicator and after a
> second the fuel gauge needle goes back to half. Turn on right indicator and
> the same happens. I?m concerned that the smoke is going to escape!
>
>
>
> No amount of looking at the wiring diagram gives me a clue
>
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Nov 26 06:24:13 2019
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 08:24:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>

If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner. 
P

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Sent from my iPhone

From tjmorrio at colby.edu  Tue Nov 26 06:46:15 2019
From: tjmorrio at colby.edu (Thomas Morrione)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 06:46:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Airborne Healey
Message-ID: <F9D8FDAA-2444-4B53-81EC-96B7C2F175F1@colby.edu>

Maybe the Healey museum might like to have it? Just sayin....
Tom

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 25, 2019, at 12:00 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
>    healeys at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    healeys-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    healeys-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: Modern Motor Magazine (dwflagg at juno.com)
>   2. Re: Modern Motor Magazine (rd_parker at juno.com)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 23:52:04 GMT
> From: "dwflagg at juno.com" <dwflagg at juno.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Modern Motor Magazine
> Message-ID: <20191124.185204.18404.0 at webmail07.dca.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> I have a copy of the March 1957 Modern Motor magazine with the airborne Austin Healey, on the cover (in color) caught by the camera in Norway's grueling Rally of the Midnight Sun. It is in very good condition for the age. First best offer, plus flat rate priority insured envelope. Thanks and a happy upcoming Thanksgiving. Doug
> ____________________________________________________________
> 74 Year Old Grandma Shocks Doctors: Forget Botox, Do This
> removethewrinkles.com
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5ddb17ffd196617ff3752st02duc
> -------------- next part --------------
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 09:36:51 -0800
> From: <rd_parker at juno.com>
> To: dwflagg at juno.com
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Modern Motor Magazine
> Message-ID: <AABQ72ELHA3276PS at smtpout01.vgs.untd.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> A suggestion: why not give it away to the highest bidder on a raffle; you
> could make more money that way.
> 
> Bob.
> 
> On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 23:52:04 GMT "dwflagg at juno.com" <dwflagg at juno.com>
> writes:
> I have a copy of the March 1957 Modern Motor magazine with the airborne
> Austin Healey, on the cover (in color) caught by the camera in Norway's
> grueling Rally of the Midnight Sun. It is in very good condition for the
> age. First best offer, plus flat rate priority insured envelope. Thanks
> and a happy upcoming Thanksgiving.
> 
> Doug
> 
> 
> ____________________________________________________________
> 74 Year Old Grandma Shocks Doctors: Forget Botox, Do This
> removethewrinkles.com
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/5ddb17ffd196617ff3752st02duc
> -------------- next part --------------
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 393
> ****************************************

From per at schoerner.se  Tue Nov 26 08:15:40 2019
From: per at schoerner.se (Per Schoerner)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 16:15:40 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Airborne Healey
In-Reply-To: <F9D8FDAA-2444-4B53-81EC-96B7C2F175F1@colby.edu>
References: <F9D8FDAA-2444-4B53-81EC-96B7C2F175F1@colby.edu>
Message-ID: <DA8A0EC7-C2A8-48E7-901B-6470F0E8928D@schoerner.se>

It?s actually a Swedish event.
Per 

>> Norway's grueling Rally of the Midnight Sun

Skickat fr?n min iPhone

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue Nov 26 09:51:40 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 11:51:40 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
 <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6WQcMed3wkrtFxzmpVy4YBxW8OQ6vDJkaHHdQXOWexXQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great
results.  The nozzle is directional.  I use acetone to clean up overspray,
etc.

On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type,
> works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away
> brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner.
> P
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Nov 26 10:03:47 2019
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:03:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6WQcMed3wkrtFxzmpVy4YBxW8OQ6vDJkaHHdQXOWexXQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
 <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
 <CAPTa0B6WQcMed3wkrtFxzmpVy4YBxW8OQ6vDJkaHHdQXOWexXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001c01d5a47b$7809d2a0$681d77e0$@verizon.net>

I?ll second that

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive

 

I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great results.  The nozzle is directional.  I use acetone to clean up overspray, etc.

 

On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner. 
P



Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Tue Nov 26 10:03:47 2019
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:03:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6WQcMed3wkrtFxzmpVy4YBxW8OQ6vDJkaHHdQXOWexXQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
 <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
 <CAPTa0B6WQcMed3wkrtFxzmpVy4YBxW8OQ6vDJkaHHdQXOWexXQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001c01d5a47b$7809d2a0$681d77e0$@verizon.net>

I?ll second that

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive

 

I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great results.  The nozzle is directional.  I use acetone to clean up overspray, etc.

 

On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner. 
P



Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From agrossman at pacific.net  Tue Nov 26 10:26:00 2019
From: agrossman at pacific.net (agrossman at pacific.net)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:26:00 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <dad6bd34dbebe46fad82633d7994455a.squirrel@webmail.securepacific.net>
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
 <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
 <CAPTa0B6WQcMed3wkrtFxzmpVy4YBxW8OQ6vDJkaHHdQXOWexXQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001c01d5a47b$7809d2a0$681d77e0$@verizon.net>
 <dad6bd34dbebe46fad82633d7994455a.squirrel@webmail.securepacific.net>
Message-ID: <de5a9494acf1eedccfe63333a81432a1.squirrel@webmail.securepacific.net>



> I use MEK to clean up, it seems like it leaves most surfaces alone. ymmv
>
> Alan
>
>> I???ll second that
>>
>>
>>
>> John Sims
>>
>>  <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com
>>
>> Matawan, NJ
>>
>>
>>
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael
>> Oritt
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
>> To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
>> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
>>
>>
>>
>> I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great
>> results.  The nozzle is directional.  I use acetone to clean up
>> overspray,
>> etc.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys
>> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
>>
>> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this
>> type,
>> works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away
>> brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner.
>> P
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net
>>
>>
>
>



From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Nov 26 10:39:39 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:39:39 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
 <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
Message-ID: <852835599.5658720.1574789979485@mail.yahoo.com>

 As far as Weldwood is concerned there is an effective contact cement and then there is the California version of Weldwood.? The California version is not worth your time.? I had to buy out of state through Amazon to get the more flammable (but works) version that the People's Democratic Republic of California is protecting us from.? I used it for the saddlebags on my Harley Davidson.? They are an all leather construction and tend to "deflate" over a short amount of time.? Looks terrible.? Through a club affiliation I got shaped double thick hard leather inserts for the front and back sides.? In the instructions it was recommended the non-California version of Weldwood Contact Cement.? It has held fast since 2003.? In the pictures you can see what happens to the bag over time and what it should look like (my bike). Actually comes nice from the factory, but leather does not keep it's shape very well.

    On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 5:25:54 AM PST, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner. 
P


Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Nov 26 10:41:38 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:41:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <de5a9494acf1eedccfe63333a81432a1.squirrel@webmail.securepacific.net>
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
 <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
 <CAPTa0B6WQcMed3wkrtFxzmpVy4YBxW8OQ6vDJkaHHdQXOWexXQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001c01d5a47b$7809d2a0$681d77e0$@verizon.net>
 <dad6bd34dbebe46fad82633d7994455a.squirrel@webmail.securepacific.net>
 <de5a9494acf1eedccfe63333a81432a1.squirrel@webmail.securepacific.net>
Message-ID: <1879057247.269224.1574790098184@mail.yahoo.com>

 Again, MEK is not available in California.Mike MacLean

    On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:26:24 AM PST, agrossman at pacific.net <agrossman at pacific.net> wrote:  
 
 

> I use MEK to clean up, it seems like it leaves most surfaces alone. ymmv
>
> Alan
>
>> I???ll second that
>>
>>
>>
>> John Sims
>>
>>? <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com
>>
>> Matawan, NJ
>>
>>
>>
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael
>> Oritt
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
>> To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
>> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
>>
>>
>>
>> I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great
>> results.? The nozzle is directional.? I use acetone to clean up
>> overspray,
>> etc.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys
>> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
>>
>> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this
>> type,
>> works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away
>> brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner.
>> P
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net
>>
>>
>
>


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Nov 26 10:46:54 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:46:54 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <001c01d5a47b$7809d2a0$681d77e0$@verizon.net>
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
 <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
 <CAPTa0B6WQcMed3wkrtFxzmpVy4YBxW8OQ6vDJkaHHdQXOWexXQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001c01d5a47b$7809d2a0$681d77e0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <72ba8b06-adca-3dd6-7276-f44e075ff8f5@comcast.net>

I've used it, too.? In my experience, you need to slop the glue on 
pretty heavy to get durable adhesion; you'll go through lots of cans of 
the spray-on stuff.

Pro shops use guns: https://www.yourautotrim.com/adhesives.html


On 11/26/2019 9:03 AM, ahbn6--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> *I?ll second that*
>
> **
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
> **
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of 
> *Michael Oritt
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
> *To:* Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> *Cc:* Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
>
> I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great 
> results.? The nozzle is directional.? I use acetone to clean up 
> overspray, etc.
>
> On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store,
>     this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a
>     cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner.
>     P
>
>
>

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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Tue Nov 26 10:53:06 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:53:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <72ba8b06-adca-3dd6-7276-f44e075ff8f5@comcast.net>
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
 <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
 <CAPTa0B6WQcMed3wkrtFxzmpVy4YBxW8OQ6vDJkaHHdQXOWexXQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <001c01d5a47b$7809d2a0$681d77e0$@verizon.net>
 <72ba8b06-adca-3dd6-7276-f44e075ff8f5@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2d6901d5a482$5d93aac0$18bb0040$@roadrunner.com>

I?ve used 3M spray (aka yellow snot) with good results.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 9:47 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive

 

I've used it, too.  In my experience, you need to slop the glue on pretty heavy to get durable adhesion; you'll go through lots of cans of the spray-on stuff.  

Pro shops use guns: https://www.yourautotrim.com/adhesives.html



On 11/26/2019 9:03 AM, ahbn6--- via Healeys wrote:

I?ll second that

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys  <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
To: Perry Small  <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com> <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: Austin Healey  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive

 

I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great results.  The nozzle is directional.  I use acetone to clean up overspray, etc.

 

On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner. 
P




 

 

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Tue Nov 26 11:11:50 2019
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 10:11:50 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <852835599.5658720.1574789979485@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
 <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
 <852835599.5658720.1574789979485@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <29qqtelcqo04k7lt989d8mlnm14mvo7ko2@4ax.com>

My (very good) upholsterer in San Diego buys the real Weldwood contact
cement here in San Diego.  That is what we used.  I am sure that
hardware stores do not stock it here but the pros know where to go.
The other stuff simply won't hold the material on a hardtop
convertible's top.

-Roland

On Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:39:39 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:

>As far as Weldwood is concerned there is an effective contact cement and then there is the California version of Weldwood.  The California version is not worth your time.  I had to buy out of state through Amazon to get the more flammable (but works) version that the People's Democratic Republic of California is protecting us from.  I used it for the saddlebags on my Harley Davidson.  They are an all leather construction and tend to "deflate" over a short amount of time.  Looks terrible.  Through a club affiliation I got shaped double thick hard leather inserts for the front and back sides.  In the instructions it was recommended the non-California version of Weldwood Contact Cement.  It has held fast since 2003.  In the pictures you can see what happens to the bag over time and what it should look like (my bike). Actually comes nice from the factory, but leather does not keep it's shape very well.

From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Nov 26 11:24:07 2019
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 18:24:07 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <852835599.5658720.1574789979485@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
 <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
 <852835599.5658720.1574789979485@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002301d5a486$b1a214e0$14e63ea0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

In the UK a gooey/rubbery stuff called Evo-stik was our best contact glue. Beloved by glue-sniffers everywhere. Original formula banned and replaced by some useless gloop. 

All forms of Nanny-Stateism and Political Correctness have gone to ridiculous levels over here.

Better stop now,

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: 26 November 2019 17:40
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive

 

As far as Weldwood is concerned there is an effective contact cement and then there is the California version of Weldwood.  The California version is not worth your time.  I had to buy out of state through Amazon to get the more flammable (but works) version that the People's Democratic Republic of California is protecting us from.  I used it for the saddlebags on my Harley Davidson.  They are an all leather construction and tend to "deflate" over a short amount of time.  Looks terrible.  Through a club affiliation I got shaped double thick hard leather inserts for the front and back sides.  In the instructions it was recommended the non-California version of Weldwood Contact Cement.  It has held fast since 2003.  In the pictures you can see what happens to the bag over time and what it should look like (my bike). Actually comes nice from the factory, but leather does not keep it's shape very well.

 

On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 5:25:54 AM PST, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote: 

 

 

If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner. 

P



Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Nov 26 11:31:34 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 10:31:34 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <852835599.5658720.1574789979485@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
 <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
 <852835599.5658720.1574789979485@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <af552ce1-d246-145e-4c46-0d07b2810dc9@comcast.net>

I don't think flammability is the issue California has with some 
products; it's the volatile, highly toxic/carcinogenic solvents used in 
many of them.? I can go a couple blocks down the street and buy as much 
of a highly flammable--in fact, explosive--compound called 'gasoline' 
and put it in my vehicles with no (unreasonable) restrictions.

Shame on California for trying to limit/reduce the amount of highly 
toxic/carcinogenic chemicals in the air we all have to breathe. Shame 
shame shame.

Bob


On 11/26/2019 9:39 AM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> As far as Weldwood is concerned there is an effective contact cement 
> and then there is the California version of Weldwood.? The California 
> version is not worth your time.? I had to buy out of state through 
> Amazon to get the more flammable (but works) version that the People's 
> Democratic Republic of California is protecting us from.? I used it 
> for the saddlebags on my Harley Davidson. They are an all leather 
> construction and tend to "deflate" over a short amount of time.? Looks 
> terrible.? Through a club affiliation I got shaped double thick hard 
> leather inserts for the front and back sides.? In the instructions it 
> was recommended the non-California version of Weldwood Contact 
> Cement.? It has held fast since 2003.? In the pictures you can see 
> what happens to the bag over time and what it should look like (my 
> bike). Actually comes nice from the factory, but leather does not keep 
> it's shape very well.
>
> On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 5:25:54 AM PST, Perry Small via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this 
> type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw 
> away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner.
> P
>

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue Nov 26 14:55:43 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 16:55:43 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>

I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen
taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on the
bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.  Unlike later cars
the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is straight with no
shoulder and does not project very far beyond the surface of the
receptacle.

I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?

Best--Michael Oritt
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Nov 26 15:02:57 2019
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 14:02:57 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88Ri6ypvsEbTgaFUW_xq-xPYWBpvzBx-8oBB3QqyVXrFw@mail.gmail.com>

what I have done in other applications i break the glass and then use a
needle nosed pliers to grab the base push and turn it out.
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Tue, Nov 26, 2019 at 1:56 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen
> taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on the
> bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.  Unlike later cars
> the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is straight with no
> shoulder and does not project very far beyond the surface of the
> receptacle.
>
> I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Nov 26 15:11:36 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 23:11:36 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d1034b24-2b3b-a8ff-f161-ca9078a703ab@chello.nl>

Halogen in a tail light? Recipe for trouble as they get way to hot. Use 
a Tungsten light or an LED. As suggested, break the glass and remove the 
bulb base with pliers.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 26-11-2019 om 22:55 schreef Michael Oritt:
> I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen 
> taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on 
> the bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.? Unlike 
> later cars the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is 
> straight with no shoulder and does not project very far beyond the 
> surface of the receptacle.
>
> I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue Nov 26 15:13:33 2019
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:13:33 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88Ri6ypvsEbTgaFUW_xq-xPYWBpvzBx-8oBB3QqyVXrFw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz88Ri6ypvsEbTgaFUW_xq-xPYWBpvzBx-8oBB3QqyVXrFw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5KPYJkCD3tCe0Mck-2NKHzujyeM9AGa5FPshgj9YfpcA@mail.gmail.com>

Ira--

Thanks and that's what I did with the first bulb. However I do not consider
that to be a viable solution and I should not have to break a bulb to
remove it, esp. if it is not defective.  I'm thinking about a little rubber
funnel or something that will grip the bulb while ai push and turn, but
have not come up with the proper tool yet.

Dave Porter just responded:  A 1.5 inch long fuel/coolant hose...presto
chango.

Best--Michael Oritt


On Tue, Nov 26, 2019 at 5:03 PM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> what I have done in other applications i break the glass and then use a
> needle nosed pliers to grab the base push and turn it out.
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 26, 2019 at 1:56 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen
>> taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on the
>> bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.  Unlike later cars
>> the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is straight with no
>> shoulder and does not project very far beyond the surface of the
>> receptacle.
>>
>> I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Nov 26 15:57:18 2019
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:57:18 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJHcg+bE_hYBSWtmrBU-pax7NZ3fJgpdTWRjins7hU80Q@mail.gmail.com>

I have had some success in removing the bulb after pulling gently on 2 of
the wires behind, not including the ground wire. So doing helps in pressing
the bulb in allowing it to rotate.

M

On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 4:56 PM Michael Oritt, <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen
> taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on the
> bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.  Unlike later cars
> the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is straight with no
> shoulder and does not project very far beyond the surface of the
> receptacle.
>
> I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Tue Nov 26 16:00:42 2019
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 23:00:42 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <af552ce1-d246-145e-4c46-0d07b2810dc9@comcast.net>
References: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155.ref@aol.com>
 <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155@aol.com>
 <852835599.5658720.1574789979485@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <af552ce1-d246-145e-4c46-0d07b2810dc9@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB343240B41E130BDA6722065CA5450@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

A couple comments:

Weldwood also makes another version of their contact cement which is a gel and id less likely to drip or spill. I've used it and it is just as good as the liquid stuff. I cleaned up excess contact cement with plain old paint thinner. Works well and doesn't seem to effect vinyl or leather dyes.

Re: flammability vs toxicity: Gasoline, especially as formulated currently has as many toxic effects as most contact adhesives. In addition the contact adhesive containers carry a warning to users to turn off gas mains before using it. Of course both hazards are dependent on the amount of material being used  and the concentration of solvents in the breating zone. A little common sense will serve to keep you safe from both factors. California legislation is living proof that anything worth doing is worth over-doing.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 6:31 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive

I don't think flammability is the issue California has with some products; it's the volatile, highly toxic/carcinogenic solvents used in many of them.  I can go a couple blocks down the street and buy as much of a highly flammable--in fact, explosive--compound called 'gasoline' and put it in my vehicles with no (unreasonable) restrictions.

Shame on California for trying to limit/reduce the amount of highly toxic/carcinogenic chemicals in the air we all have to breathe.   Shame shame shame.

Bob


On 11/26/2019 9:39 AM, Michael MacLean wrote:
As far as Weldwood is concerned there is an effective contact cement and then there is the California version of Weldwood.  The California version is not worth your time.  I had to buy out of state through Amazon to get the more flammable (but works) version that the People's Democratic Republic of California is protecting us from.  I used it for the saddlebags on my Harley Davidson.  They are an all leather construction and tend to "deflate" over a short amount of time.  Looks terrible.  Through a club affiliation I got shaped double thick hard leather inserts for the front and back sides.  In the instructions it was recommended the non-California version of Weldwood Contact Cement.  It has held fast since 2003.  In the pictures you can see what happens to the bag over time and what it should look like (my bike). Actually comes nice from the factory, but leather does not keep it's shape very well.

On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 5:25:54 AM PST, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner.
P





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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Tue Nov 26 16:18:27 2019
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 10:18:27 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....
In-Reply-To: <201911262314.xAQNEDXF007455@mx13.tpg.com.au>
References: <00b301d5a1e3$1b2b5350$5181f9f0$@tpg.com.au>
 <201911262314.xAQNEDXF007455@mx13.tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <00c801d5a4af$d021dd50$706597f0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Not as yet! In between keeping a lookout at the red glow and smoke on the horizon from the bushfires, I have been wrestling with the front guards of the BN3 trying to get them to fit.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Perry [mailto:healeyguy at aol.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, 27 November 2019 10:14 AM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....

 

Patrick

Were you able to determine the fault on the BN2? 

Perry

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: Patrick  <mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> & Caroline Quinn
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2019 4:48 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....

 

Hello

 

Currently there is a BN2 sharing garage space in my barn with the BN3 and the Healey Duncan.

 

Normally I can work through problems with the relatively simple auto electrical systems fitted to our Healeys and Austin-Healeys, but this one has me stumped.

 

The indicators of the BN2 refuse to work so I have been head down, tail up trying to work it out. The RHD car is negative earth and apart from a modern plastic cased flasher can it?s quite standard.

 

Now this is curious. Turn on ignition and everything is fine with the fuel gauge reading half full. Switch on the left indicator which doesn?t work, but the fuel gauge needle drops to empty. Turn off indicator and after a second the fuel gauge needle goes back to half. Turn on right indicator and the same happens. I?m concerned that the smoke is going to escape!

 

No amount of looking at the wiring diagram gives me a clue

 

Any suggestions?

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

 

 

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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Tue Nov 26 18:35:43 2019
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 01:35:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
In-Reply-To: <2d6901d5a482$5d93aac0$18bb0040$@roadrunner.com>
References: <2d6901d5a482$5d93aac0$18bb0040$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <BN6PR15MB1698453D538E4D386D2D12C8BF440@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

But does it work over POR 15?
It didn?t for mean left a mess

Regards,
Richard C


On Nov 26, 2019, at 11:53, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:

?
I?ve used 3M spray (aka yellow snot) with good results.

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 9:47 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive

I've used it, too.  In my experience, you need to slop the glue on pretty heavy to get durable adhesion; you'll go through lots of cans of the spray-on stuff.

Pro shops use guns: https://www.yourautotrim.com/adhesives.html

On 11/26/2019 9:03 AM, ahbn6--- via Healeys wrote:
I?ll second that

John Sims
www.healey6.com<http://www.healey6.com/>
Matawan, NJ

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com><mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive

I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great results.  The nozzle is directional.  I use acetone to clean up overspray, etc.

On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner.
P





_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 26 18:35:51 2019
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 01:35:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5KPYJkCD3tCe0Mck-2NKHzujyeM9AGa5FPshgj9YfpcA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CABXhz88Ri6ypvsEbTgaFUW_xq-xPYWBpvzBx-8oBB3QqyVXrFw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5KPYJkCD3tCe0Mck-2NKHzujyeM9AGa5FPshgj9YfpcA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <169417003.3820801.1574818551488@mail.yahoo.com>

 Not trying to be facetious ...Maybe a "carrot"?? ..I've used raw potato on standard light bulbs ...
Jim

    On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 10:13:54 PM UTC, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Ira--
Thanks and that's what I did with?the first bulb. However I do not consider that?to be a viable solution and I should not have to break?a bulb to remove it, esp. if it is not defective.? I'm thinking about a little rubber funnel or something that?will grip the bulb while ai push and turn, but have not come up with the proper tool yet.
Dave Porter just responded:??A 1.5 inch long fuel/coolant hose...presto chango.
Best--Michael Oritt

On Tue, Nov 26, 2019 at 5:03 PM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

what I have done in other applications i break the glass and then use a needle nosed pliers?to grab the base push and turn it out.
Ira ErbsPortland,OR? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
? ? ? ?? (_________________________)? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes

1967 MGB ?
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

On Tue, Nov 26, 2019 at 1:56 PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:

I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen taillight bulbs on my car.?I simply cannot get q good enough grip on the bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.? Unlike later cars the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is straight with no shoulder and does not project very far beyond the surface of the receptacle.?

I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?

Best--Michael Oritt_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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_______________________________________________
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From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 26 18:41:34 2019
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 01:41:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1403798857.3818950.1574818894734@mail.yahoo.com>

 Like this?

    On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:56:16 PM UTC, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen taillight bulbs on my car.?I simply cannot get q good enough grip on the bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.? Unlike later cars the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is straight with no shoulder and does not project very far beyond the surface of the receptacle.?

I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?

Best--Michael Oritt_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From rv9aplane at gmail.com  Tue Nov 26 18:57:06 2019
From: rv9aplane at gmail.com (Bruce Peters)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:57:06 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Adhesives
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1574794802.12011.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.6.1574794802.12011.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8DEB6E75-C50E-43A6-B114-BD80E1FD67DE@gmail.com>

Thanks for all the replies everyone, that was very helpful.

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 26, 2019, at 11:00 AM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> ?Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
>    healeys at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    healeys-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    healeys-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Adhesive (Bruce Peters)
>   2. Re: Adhesive (Bob Spidell)
>   3. Re: Adhesive (John Spaur)
>   4. Re: Adhesive (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
>   5. Re: Kneebone connected to the .... (Alan Seigrist)
>   6. Adhesive (Perry Small)
>   7. Airborne Healey (Thomas Morrione)
>   8. Re: Airborne Healey (Per Schoerner)
>   9. Re: Adhesive (Michael Oritt)
>  10. Re: Adhesive (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
>  11. Re: Adhesive (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
>  12. Re: Adhesive (agrossman at pacific.net)
>  13. Re: Adhesive (Michael MacLean)
>  14. Re: Adhesive (Michael MacLean)
>  15. Re: Adhesive (Bob Spidell)
>  16. Re: Adhesive (Bruce Steele)
>  17. Re: Adhesive (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
>  18. Re: Adhesive (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
>  19. Re: Adhesive (Bob Spidell)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 21:00:16 -0800
> From: Bruce Peters <rv9aplane at gmail.com>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <4AB12101-8E13-4B0A-99EE-8A4523628260 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> Hi all,
> I am installing the trunk lining kit in my BJ8 and have watched the video from Moss on how to do it. They use a brush on adhesive that they say is available from Moss but it isn?t, just a spray adhesive. What do you all use for adhesive for the trunk kit and the carpeting kit?
> 
> Thanks, Bruce
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 21:33:35 -0800
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <b8c5a74b-801c-7d63-4df1-1ea86de497db at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> This is the adhesive you seek:
> 
> *https://tinyurl.com/v2kpevr
> 
> *
>> On 11/25/2019 9:00 PM, Bruce Peters wrote:
>> Hi all,
>> I am installing the trunk lining kit in my BJ8 and have watched the video from Moss on how to do it. They use a brush on adhesive that they say is available from Moss but it isn?t, just a spray adhesive. What do you all use for adhesive for the trunk kit and the carpeting kit?
>> 
>> Thanks, Bruce
>> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 21:49:35 -0800
> From: "John Spaur" <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <000501d5a41d$48e71bd0$dab55370$@sbcglobal.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> That is the best.
> 
> 
> 
> John
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Monday, November 25, 2019 9:34 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> 
> 
> 
> This is the adhesive you seek:
> 
> https://tinyurl.com/v2kpevr
> 
> 
> 
> On 11/25/2019 9:00 PM, Bruce Peters wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> I am installing the trunk lining kit in my BJ8 and have watched the video from Moss on how to do it. They use a brush on adhesive that they say is available from Moss but it isn?t, just a spray adhesive. What do you all use for adhesive for the trunk kit and the carpeting kit?
> 
> Thanks, Bruce
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 22:29:18 -0800
> From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com
> To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <2fhptel8dctvq8hfillfiju12h1el2679o at 4ax.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> 
> I agree.  Used it on BN1 #724 boot and cockpit.  Buy some cheap
> brushes and use only in good ventilation.
> 
> -Roland
> 
>> On Mon, 25 Nov 2019 21:33:35 -0800, you wrote:
>> 
>> This is the adhesive you seek:
>> 
>> *https://tinyurl.com/v2kpevr
>> 
>> *
>>> On 11/25/2019 9:00 PM, Bruce Peters wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>> I am installing the trunk lining kit in my BJ8 and have watched the video from Moss on how to do it. They use a brush on adhesive that they say is available from Moss but it isn?t, just a spray adhesive. What do you all use for adhesive for the trunk kit and the carpeting kit?
>>> 
>>> Thanks, Bruce
>>> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 16:07:56 +0800
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: "Patrick & Caroline Quinn" <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
> Cc: Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Kneebone connected to the ....
> Message-ID:
>    <CAFBXTkKMSCtw8oH0LRO6bqMg1L=824wO0b6GhUrt3G0haZRwQQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Didja check the earth?
> 
> On Sat, Nov 23, 2019 at 5:48 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <
> p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:
> 
>> Hello
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Currently there is a BN2 sharing garage space in my barn with the BN3 and
>> the Healey Duncan.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Normally I can work through problems with the relatively simple auto
>> electrical systems fitted to our Healeys and Austin-Healeys, but this one
>> has me stumped.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> The indicators of the BN2 refuse to work so I have been head down, tail up
>> trying to work it out. The RHD car is negative earth and apart from a
>> modern plastic cased flasher can it?s quite standard.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Now this is curious. Turn on ignition and everything is fine with the fuel
>> gauge reading half full. Switch on the left indicator which doesn?t work,
>> but the fuel gauge needle drops to empty. Turn off indicator and after a
>> second the fuel gauge needle goes back to half. Turn on right indicator and
>> the same happens. I?m concerned that the smoke is going to escape!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> No amount of looking at the wiring diagram gives me a clue
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Any suggestions?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Hoo Roo
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Patrick
>> 
>> Blue Mountains, Australia
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 08:24:13 -0500
> From: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <FC21DF54-C647-4C04-9279-8E65BA95E155 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner. 
> P
> 
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> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 06:46:15 -0700
> From: Thomas Morrione <tjmorrio at colby.edu>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Airborne Healey
> Message-ID: <F9D8FDAA-2444-4B53-81EC-96B7C2F175F1 at colby.edu>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=us-ascii
> 
> Maybe the Healey museum might like to have it? Just sayin....
> Tom
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 25, 2019, at 12:00 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>> 
>> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
>>   healeys at autox.team.net
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>   http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>   healeys-request at autox.team.net
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>   healeys-owner at autox.team.net
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>  1. Re: Modern Motor Magazine (dwflagg at juno.com)
>>  2. Re: Modern Motor Magazine (rd_parker at juno.com)
>> 
>> 
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Sun, 24 Nov 2019 23:52:04 GMT
>> From: "dwflagg at juno.com" <dwflagg at juno.com>
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Modern Motor Magazine
>> Message-ID: <20191124.185204.18404.0 at webmail07.dca.untd.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
>> 
>> I have a copy of the March 1957 Modern Motor magazine with the airborne Austin Healey, on the cover (in color) caught by the camera in Norway's grueling Rally of the Midnight Sun. It is in very good condition for the age. First best offer, plus flat rate priority insured envelope. Thanks and a happy upcoming Thanksgiving. Doug
>> ____________________________________________________________
>> 74 Year Old Grandma Shocks Doctors: Forget Botox, Do This
>> removethewrinkles.com
>> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5ddb17ffd196617ff3752st02duc
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Mon, 25 Nov 2019 09:36:51 -0800
>> From: <rd_parker at juno.com>
>> To: dwflagg at juno.com
>> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Modern Motor Magazine
>> Message-ID: <AABQ72ELHA3276PS at smtpout01.vgs.untd.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> A suggestion: why not give it away to the highest bidder on a raffle; you
>> could make more money that way.
>> 
>> Bob.
>> 
>> On Sun, 24 Nov 2019 23:52:04 GMT "dwflagg at juno.com" <dwflagg at juno.com>
>> writes:
>> I have a copy of the March 1957 Modern Motor magazine with the airborne
>> Austin Healey, on the cover (in color) caught by the camera in Norway's
>> grueling Rally of the Midnight Sun. It is in very good condition for the
>> age. First best offer, plus flat rate priority insured envelope. Thanks
>> and a happy upcoming Thanksgiving.
>> 
>> Doug
>> 
>> 
>> ____________________________________________________________
>> 74 Year Old Grandma Shocks Doctors: Forget Botox, Do This
>> removethewrinkles.com
>> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3142/5ddb17ffd196617ff3752st02duc
>> -------------- next part --------------
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>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Subject: Digest Footer
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Healeys mailing list
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 393
>> ****************************************
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 16:15:40 +0100
> From: Per Schoerner <per at schoerner.se>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Airborne Healey
> Message-ID: <DA8A0EC7-C2A8-48E7-901B-6470F0E8928D at schoerner.se>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> It?s actually a Swedish event.
> Per 
> 
>>> Norway's grueling Rally of the Midnight Sun
> 
> Skickat fr?n min iPhone
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 9
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 11:51:40 -0500
> From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID:
>    <CAPTa0B6WQcMed3wkrtFxzmpVy4YBxW8OQ6vDJkaHHdQXOWexXQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great
> results.  The nozzle is directional.  I use acetone to clean up overspray,
> etc.
> 
> On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
>> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type,
>> works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away
>> brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner.
>> P
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>> 
>> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 10
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:03:47 -0500
> From: <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
> To: "'Michael Oritt'" <michael.oritt at gmail.com>, "'Perry Small'"
>    <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: "'Austin Healey'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <001c01d5a47b$7809d2a0$681d77e0$@verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I?ll second that
> 
> 
> 
> John Sims
> 
> <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com
> 
> Matawan, NJ
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
> To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> 
> 
> 
> I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great results.  The nozzle is directional.  I use acetone to clean up overspray, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
> 
> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner. 
> P
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 11
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 12:03:47 -0500
> From: <ahbn6 at verizon.net>
> To: "'Michael Oritt'" <michael.oritt at gmail.com>, "'Perry Small'"
>    <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: "'Austin Healey'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <001c01d5a47b$7809d2a0$681d77e0$@verizon.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I?ll second that
> 
> 
> 
> John Sims
> 
> <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com
> 
> Matawan, NJ
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
> To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> 
> 
> 
> I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great results.  The nozzle is directional.  I use acetone to clean up overspray, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
> 
> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner. 
> P
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:26:00 -0800
> From: agrossman at pacific.net
> To: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID:
>    <de5a9494acf1eedccfe63333a81432a1.squirrel at webmail.securepacific.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> 
> 
>> I use MEK to clean up, it seems like it leaves most surfaces alone. ymmv
>> 
>> Alan
>> 
>>> I???ll second that
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> John Sims
>>> 
>>> <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com
>>> 
>>> Matawan, NJ
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael
>>> Oritt
>>> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
>>> To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
>>> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great
>>> results.  The nozzle is directional.  I use acetone to clean up
>>> overspray,
>>> etc.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys
>>> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this
>>> type,
>>> works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away
>>> brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner.
>>> P
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
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>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 13
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:39:39 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>, Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <852835599.5658720.1574789979485 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> As far as Weldwood is concerned there is an effective contact cement and then there is the California version of Weldwood.? The California version is not worth your time.? I had to buy out of state through Amazon to get the more flammable (but works) version that the People's Democratic Republic of California is protecting us from.? I used it for the saddlebags on my Harley Davidson.? They are an all leather construction and tend to "deflate" over a short amount of time.? Looks terrible.? Through a club affiliation I got shaped double thick hard leather inserts for the front and back sides.? In the instructions it was recommended the non-California version of Weldwood Contact Cement.? It has held fast since 2003.? In the pictures you can see what happens to the bag over time and what it should look like (my bike). Actually comes nice from the factory, but leather does not keep it's shape very well.
> 
>    On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 5:25:54 AM PST, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
> 
> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner. 
> P
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 14
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:41:38 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net, "agrossman at pacific.net"
>    <agrossman at pacific.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <1879057247.269224.1574790098184 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Again, MEK is not available in California.Mike MacLean
> 
>    On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:26:24 AM PST, agrossman at pacific.net <agrossman at pacific.net> wrote:  
> 
> 
> 
>> I use MEK to clean up, it seems like it leaves most surfaces alone. ymmv
>> 
>> Alan
>> 
>>> I???ll second that
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> John Sims
>>> 
>>> ? <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com
>>> 
>>> Matawan, NJ
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael
>>> Oritt
>>> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
>>> To: Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
>>> Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great
>>> results.? The nozzle is directional.? I use acetone to clean up
>>> overspray,
>>> etc.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys
>>> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this
>>> type,
>>> works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away
>>> brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner.
>>> P
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/agrossman at pacific.net
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 15
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:46:54 -0800
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <72ba8b06-adca-3dd6-7276-f44e075ff8f5 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> I've used it, too.? In my experience, you need to slop the glue on 
> pretty heavy to get durable adhesion; you'll go through lots of cans of 
> the spray-on stuff.
> 
> Pro shops use guns: https://www.yourautotrim.com/adhesives.html
> 
> 
>> On 11/26/2019 9:03 AM, ahbn6--- via Healeys wrote:
>> 
>> *I?ll second that*
>> 
>> **
>> 
>> *John Sims*
>> 
>> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>> 
>> *Matawan, NJ*
>> 
>> **
>> 
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of 
>> *Michael Oritt
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
>> *To:* Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
>> *Cc:* Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
>> 
>> I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great 
>> results.? The nozzle is directional.? I use acetone to clean up 
>> overspray, etc.
>> 
>> On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys 
>> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> 
>>    If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store,
>>    this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a
>>    cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner.
>>    P
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 16
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 09:53:06 -0800
> From: "Bruce Steele" <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>
> To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell at comcast.net>,    <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <2d6901d5a482$5d93aac0$18bb0040$@roadrunner.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I?ve used 3M spray (aka yellow snot) with good results.
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce Steele
> 
> Brea, CA
> 
> 1960 BN7
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 9:47 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> 
> 
> 
> I've used it, too.  In my experience, you need to slop the glue on pretty heavy to get durable adhesion; you'll go through lots of cans of the spray-on stuff.  
> 
> Pro shops use guns: https://www.yourautotrim.com/adhesives.html
> 
> 
> 
> On 11/26/2019 9:03 AM, ahbn6--- via Healeys wrote:
> 
> I?ll second that
> 
> 
> 
> John Sims
> 
> <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com
> 
> Matawan, NJ
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys  <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
> Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 11:52 AM
> To: Perry Small  <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com> <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Cc: Austin Healey  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> 
> 
> 
> I have used 3M HD spray-on in many different situations with great results.  The nozzle is directional.  I use acetone to clean up overspray, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Nov 26, 2019, 8:25 AM Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:
> 
> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner. 
> P
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 17
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 10:11:50 -0800
> From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com
> To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <29qqtelcqo04k7lt989d8mlnm14mvo7ko2 at 4ax.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> My (very good) upholsterer in San Diego buys the real Weldwood contact
> cement here in San Diego.  That is what we used.  I am sure that
> hardware stores do not stock it here but the pros know where to go.
> The other stuff simply won't hold the material on a hardtop
> convertible's top.
> 
> -Roland
> 
>> On Tue, 26 Nov 2019 17:39:39 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:
>> 
>> As far as Weldwood is concerned there is an effective contact cement and then there is the California version of Weldwood.  The California version is not worth your time.  I had to buy out of state through Amazon to get the more flammable (but works) version that the People's Democratic Republic of California is protecting us from.  I used it for the saddlebags on my Harley Davidson.  They are an all leather construction and tend to "deflate" over a short amount of time.  Looks terrible.  Through a club affiliation I got shaped double thick hard leather inserts for the front and back sides.  In the instructions it was recommended the non-California version of Weldwood Contact Cement.  It has held fast since 2003.  In the pictures you can see what happens to the bag over time and what it should look like (my bike). Actually comes nice from the factory, but leather does not keep it's shape very well.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 18
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 18:24:07 -0000
> From: <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> To: "'Healeys'" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <002301d5a486$b1a214e0$14e63ea0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> In the UK a gooey/rubbery stuff called Evo-stik was our best contact glue. Beloved by glue-sniffers everywhere. Original formula banned and replaced by some useless gloop. 
> 
> All forms of Nanny-Stateism and Political Correctness have gone to ridiculous levels over here.
> 
> Better stop now,
> 
> Simon
> 
> 
> 
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
> Sent: 26 November 2019 17:40
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>; Perry Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> 
> 
> 
> As far as Weldwood is concerned there is an effective contact cement and then there is the California version of Weldwood.  The California version is not worth your time.  I had to buy out of state through Amazon to get the more flammable (but works) version that the People's Democratic Republic of California is protecting us from.  I used it for the saddlebags on my Harley Davidson.  They are an all leather construction and tend to "deflate" over a short amount of time.  Looks terrible.  Through a club affiliation I got shaped double thick hard leather inserts for the front and back sides.  In the instructions it was recommended the non-California version of Weldwood Contact Cement.  It has held fast since 2003.  In the pictures you can see what happens to the bag over time and what it should look like (my bike). Actually comes nice from the factory, but leather does not keep it's shape very well.
> 
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 5:25:54 AM PST, Perry Small via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote: 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner. 
> 
> P
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys%20> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 19
> Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 10:31:34 -0800
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Adhesive
> Message-ID: <af552ce1-d246-145e-4c46-0d07b2810dc9 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> I don't think flammability is the issue California has with some 
> products; it's the volatile, highly toxic/carcinogenic solvents used in 
> many of them.? I can go a couple blocks down the street and buy as much 
> of a highly flammable--in fact, explosive--compound called 'gasoline' 
> and put it in my vehicles with no (unreasonable) restrictions.
> 
> Shame on California for trying to limit/reduce the amount of highly 
> toxic/carcinogenic chemicals in the air we all have to breathe. Shame 
> shame shame.
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
>> On 11/26/2019 9:39 AM, Michael MacLean wrote:
>> As far as Weldwood is concerned there is an effective contact cement 
>> and then there is the California version of Weldwood.? The California 
>> version is not worth your time.? I had to buy out of state through 
>> Amazon to get the more flammable (but works) version that the People's 
>> Democratic Republic of California is protecting us from.? I used it 
>> for the saddlebags on my Harley Davidson. They are an all leather 
>> construction and tend to "deflate" over a short amount of time.? Looks 
>> terrible.? Through a club affiliation I got shaped double thick hard 
>> leather inserts for the front and back sides.? In the instructions it 
>> was recommended the non-California version of Weldwood Contact 
>> Cement.? It has held fast since 2003.? In the pictures you can see 
>> what happens to the bag over time and what it should look like (my 
>> bike). Actually comes nice from the factory, but leather does not keep 
>> it's shape very well.
>> 
>> On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 5:25:54 AM PST, Perry Small via Healeys 
>> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> If you look for Weldwood adhesive at the local hardware store, this 
>> type, works very well. A bit messy and as mentioned, use a cheap throw 
>> away brush. Can clean up with lacquer thinner.
>> P
>> 
> 
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> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 12, Issue 394
> ****************************************

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Nov 26 20:30:08 2019
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 19:30:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?adhesive?=
Message-ID: <20191127033008.30362.qmail@server278.com>

do not know if anyone has noticed but it seems like paint stripper has lost a lot of its effectivness since they modifed it to be 
environmentally friendly.  last gallon i bought seemed weak and i had to use more of it.  price had doubled almost.  thinking 
about making up my own like i used to.

From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Nov 26 20:54:08 2019
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2019 19:54:08 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?knock?=
Message-ID: <20191127035408.13126.qmail@server278.com>

last week someone suggested changing the oil and adding some Lucas Oil Stabilizer to see if that would stop the knock.  
since i had already drained the oil in preparation for tearing down the engine, i decided to give it a try.  got Castrol 20-50 
dino oil and i already had a bottle of STP so i put that in, not expecting any change.  well, so far, i have been driving it 
everyday and have not heard a knock on startup.  i am not a believer in additives, so not sure how long my good luck will 
last.  might be because it is a lot colder now than a few weeks ago(50s-60s F), but i am certainly a happy driver.  thanks to 
everyone for the help.

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Wed Nov 27 08:16:01 2019
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 07:16:01 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <d1034b24-2b3b-a8ff-f161-ca9078a703ab@chello.nl>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <d1034b24-2b3b-a8ff-f161-ca9078a703ab@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <30b901d5a535$961cb090$c25611b0$@roadrunner.com>

A bit off topic, but to Kees point, when I first did the reflector conversion LEDs were well in the future, and the bulb to use was the halogen photography bulb.  Heat build-up wasn?t a problem since neither the brake lights nor turn indicator are illuminated for long periods.  That is until one time returning from California Healey Week at some far-flung destination I drove for over an hour on the freeway with my left turn signal on.  The heat from the bulb warped a nice dimple in the reflector lens.  Now the halogens are long gone, replaced by LEDs, and the warped lens sits on my workbench as a reminder that it could have been much worse.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs
Sent: Tuesday, November 26, 2019 2:12 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue

 

Halogen in a tail light? Recipe for trouble as they get way to hot. Use a Tungsten light or an LED. As suggested, break the glass and remove the bulb base with pliers.

Kees Oudesluijs

 

 

Op 26-11-2019 om 22:55 schreef Michael Oritt:

I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on the bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.  Unlike later cars the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is straight with no shoulder and does not project very far beyond the surface of the receptacle. 

I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?

 

Best--Michael Oritt





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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Wed Nov 27 09:39:43 2019
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 16:39:43 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Happy Thanksgiving
Message-ID: <92135770-7ec4-40bc-856a-01bcd71b8f7a@me.com>

I know it's a day early and Thanksgiving is not a holiday for everyone on the list, but I wanted to say to the list: "Thanks for Giving"! This list has helped me a bunch and though I don't contribute as much as many, simply because I know less than many, I read the list on a daily basis and learn from it almost as much. So whether you take the day off tomorrow or not, thank you all and Happy Thanksgiving to our Healey world!
Steven Kingsbury
Now with a '55 BN1?
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Wed Nov 27 11:44:18 2019
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 10:44:18 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <1403798857.3818950.1574818894734@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1403798857.3818950.1574818894734@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <c034905f-dea3-2eb6-5c26-e9ae8bcedc39@comcast.net>

I have a similar problem with my dining room light fixture, which uses 
the high-intensity bulbs.? The only way to rotate them is with my 
thumbs.? The real problem is that the socket gets loose, and just 
rotates with the bulb.? I have taken most of them apart and re-tightened 
them, but hard to get at, especially when standing on a short ladder.

Mike

On 11/26/2019 5:41 PM, jim via Healeys wrote:
> Like this?
>
> On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:56:16 PM UTC, Michael Oritt 
> <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen 
> taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on 
> the bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.? Unlike 
> later cars the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is 
> straight with no shoulder and does not project very far beyond the 
> surface of the receptacle.
>
> I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >http://autox.team.net/archive
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 27 12:02:31 2019
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 19:02:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] knock
In-Reply-To: <20191127035408.13126.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20191127035408.13126.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <BYAPR08MB4664AB176C04EFFDF660D869A4440@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

What grade oil had you been using?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 26, 2019, at 7:54 PM, healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net> wrote:
> 
> ?last week someone suggested changing the oil and adding some Lucas Oil Stabilizer to see if that would stop the knock.  
> since i had already drained the oil in preparation for tearing down the engine, i decided to give it a try.  got Castrol 20-50 
> dino oil and i already had a bottle of STP so i put that in, not expecting any change.  well, so far, i have been driving it 
> everyday and have not heard a knock on startup.  i am not a believer in additives, so not sure how long my good luck will 
> last.  might be because it is a lot colder now than a few weeks ago(50s-60s F), but i am certainly a happy driver.  thanks to 
> everyone for the help.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Wed Nov 27 14:11:03 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 22:11:03 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <c034905f-dea3-2eb6-5c26-e9ae8bcedc39@comcast.net>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1403798857.3818950.1574818894734@mail.yahoo.com>
 <c034905f-dea3-2eb6-5c26-e9ae8bcedc39@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <37f18e6d-d5ff-19c8-5347-13998e360a60@chello.nl>

You could always try to get some WD-40 in the socket to reduce the 
friction to rotate the bulb.

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 27-11-2019 om 19:44 schreef Mike Sinclair:
>
> I have a similar problem with my dining room light fixture, which uses 
> the high-intensity bulbs.? The only way to rotate them is with my 
> thumbs.? The real problem is that the socket gets loose, and just 
> rotates with the bulb.? I have taken most of them apart and 
> re-tightened them, but hard to get at, especially when standing on a 
> short ladder.
>
> Mike
>
> On 11/26/2019 5:41 PM, jim via Healeys wrote:
>> Like this?
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:56:16 PM UTC, Michael Oritt 
>> <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen 
>> taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on 
>> the bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.? Unlike 
>> later cars the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is 
>> straight with no shoulder and does not project very far beyond the 
>> surface of the receptacle.
>>
>> I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Wed Nov 27 14:57:51 2019
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 13:57:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <37f18e6d-d5ff-19c8-5347-13998e360a60@chello.nl>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1403798857.3818950.1574818894734@mail.yahoo.com>
 <c034905f-dea3-2eb6-5c26-e9ae8bcedc39@comcast.net>
 <37f18e6d-d5ff-19c8-5347-13998e360a60@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <f7c14a6f-3177-16aa-da6b-c8356c66f15f@comcast.net>

Good thought, Kees, but not reachable.? The bulbs are in a metal holder, 
kind of like half an eggshell. Looks cool, but not very 
maintenance-friendly.

Mike

On 11/27/2019 1:11 PM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>
> You could always try to get some WD-40 in the socket to reduce the 
> friction to rotate the bulb.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 27-11-2019 om 19:44 schreef Mike Sinclair:
>>
>> I have a similar problem with my dining room light fixture, which 
>> uses the high-intensity bulbs. The only way to rotate them is with my 
>> thumbs.? The real problem is that the socket gets loose, and just 
>> rotates with the bulb.? I have taken most of them apart and 
>> re-tightened them, but hard to get at, especially when standing on a 
>> short ladder.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> On 11/26/2019 5:41 PM, jim via Healeys wrote:
>>> Like this?
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:56:16 PM UTC, Michael Oritt 
>>> <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen 
>>> taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on 
>>> the bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.? Unlike 
>>> later cars the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is 
>>> straight with no shoulder and does not project very far beyond the 
>>> surface of the receptacle.
>>>
>>> I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>>> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys >http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
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>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Nov 27 15:03:48 2019
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 22:03:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <37f18e6d-d5ff-19c8-5347-13998e360a60@chello.nl>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1403798857.3818950.1574818894734@mail.yahoo.com>
 <c034905f-dea3-2eb6-5c26-e9ae8bcedc39@comcast.net>
 <37f18e6d-d5ff-19c8-5347-13998e360a60@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <431856941.6232927.1574892228529@mail.yahoo.com>

 Again, WD 40 is not a lubricant.? It's purpose is to displace water.? In the past I have used it inside a distributor cap that got wet to get the car running again.Mike MacLean

    On Wednesday, November 27, 2019, 1:11:35 PM PST, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:  
 
   
You could always try to get some WD-40 in the socket to reduce the friction to rotate the bulb.
 
Kees Oudesluijs
 

 
 Op 27-11-2019 om 19:44 schreef Mike Sinclair:
  
 
I have a similar problem with my dining room light fixture, which uses the high-intensity bulbs.? The only way to rotate them is with my thumbs.? The real problem is that the socket gets loose, and just rotates with the bulb.? I have taken most of them apart and re-tightened them, but hard to get at, especially when standing on a short ladder.
 
Mike
 On 11/26/2019 5:41 PM, jim via Healeys wrote:
  
  Like this?
  
      On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:56:16 PM UTC, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:  
  
     I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen taillight bulbs on my car.?I simply cannot get q good enough grip on the bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.? Unlike later cars the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is straight with no shoulder and does not project very far beyond the surface of the receptacle.?
 
 I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?
  
  Best--Michael Oritt   _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation? $12.75
 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
 
 Healeys at autox.team.net
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 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ab7vf at yahoo.com
 
    
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov 27 19:05:36 2019
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 18:05:36 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <431856941.6232927.1574892228529@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1403798857.3818950.1574818894734@mail.yahoo.com>
 <c034905f-dea3-2eb6-5c26-e9ae8bcedc39@comcast.net>
 <37f18e6d-d5ff-19c8-5347-13998e360a60@chello.nl>
 <431856941.6232927.1574892228529@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001d01d5a590$53818b10$fa84a130$@sbcglobal.net>

If you spray it into a container and let it evaporate it will leave an oily residue.

 

John Spaur

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2019 2:04 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue

 

Again, WD 40 is not a lubricant.  It's purpose is to displace water.  In the past I have used it inside a distributor cap that got wet to get the car running again.

Mike MacLean

 

On Wednesday, November 27, 2019, 1:11:35 PM PST, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl> > wrote: 

 

 

You could always try to get some WD-40 in the socket to reduce the friction to rotate the bulb.

Kees Oudesluijs

 

Op 27-11-2019 om 19:44 schreef Mike Sinclair:

I have a similar problem with my dining room light fixture, which uses the high-intensity bulbs.  The only way to rotate them is with my thumbs.  The real problem is that the socket gets loose, and just rotates with the bulb.  I have taken most of them apart and re-tightened them, but hard to get at, especially when standing on a short ladder.

Mike

On 11/26/2019 5:41 PM, jim via Healeys wrote:

Like this?

 

On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:56:16 PM UTC, Michael Oritt  <mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com> <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote: 

 

 

I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on the bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.  Unlike later cars the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is straight with no shoulder and does not project very far beyond the surface of the receptacle. 

I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?

 

Best--Michael Oritt

_______________________________________________
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Nov 27 19:27:13 2019
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 27 Nov 2019 18:27:13 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <001d01d5a590$53818b10$fa84a130$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <001d01d5a590$53818b10$fa84a130$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4D341660-7085-43B9-9AE1-EFCF068CB153@comcast.net>

Works great on my Atlas missile warheads ... haven?t had an accidental launch in months.



> On Nov 27, 2019, at 6:06 PM, John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> If you spray it into a container and let it evaporate it will leave an oily residue.
>  
> John Spaur
>  
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2019 2:04 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net; Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
>  
> Again, WD 40 is not a lubricant.  It's purpose is to displace water.  In the past I have used it inside a distributor cap that got wet to get the car running again.
> Mike MacLean
>  
> On Wednesday, November 27, 2019, 1:11:35 PM PST, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>  
>  
> You could always try to get some WD-40 in the socket to reduce the friction to rotate the bulb.
> 
> Kees Oudesluijs
> 
>  
> 
> Op 27-11-2019 om 19:44 schreef Mike Sinclair:
> I have a similar problem with my dining room light fixture, which uses the high-intensity bulbs.  The only way to rotate them is with my thumbs.  The real problem is that the socket gets loose, and just rotates with the bulb.  I have taken most of them apart and re-tightened them, but hard to get at, especially when standing on a short ladder.
> 
> Mike
> 
> On 11/26/2019 5:41 PM, jim via Healeys wrote:
> Like this?
>  
> On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:56:16 PM UTC, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
>  
>  
> I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on the bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.  Unlike later cars the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is straight with no shoulder and does not project very far beyond the surface of the receptacle. 
> 
> I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?
>  
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu Nov 28 01:53:53 2019
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2019 08:53:53 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <4D341660-7085-43B9-9AE1-EFCF068CB153@comcast.net>
References: <001d01d5a590$53818b10$fa84a130$@sbcglobal.net>
 <4D341660-7085-43B9-9AE1-EFCF068CB153@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000a01d5a5c9$5dd24ad0$1976e070$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Surely the thing about WD40 is that it does work quite well as a lubricant and that it works very well as a water-dispersant. But, it does, more or less evaporate, so it?s lubrication effect is fairly short term.

Driving a fairly ancient mini in Ireland, with it?s distributor so close to the inside of the grille, one learnt to have a can available at all times.

Horses for courses?.

Simon

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 28 November 2019 02:27
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue

 

Works great on my Atlas missile warheads ... haven?t had an accidental launch in months.

 

 





On Nov 27, 2019, at 6:06 PM, John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> > wrote:

?

If you spray it into a container and let it evaporate it will leave an oily residue.

 

John Spaur

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael MacLean
Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2019 2:04 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> ; Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue

 

Again, WD 40 is not a lubricant.  It's purpose is to displace water.  In the past I have used it inside a distributor cap that got wet to get the car running again.

Mike MacLean

 

On Wednesday, November 27, 2019, 1:11:35 PM PST, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl> > wrote: 

 

 

You could always try to get some WD-40 in the socket to reduce the friction to rotate the bulb.

Kees Oudesluijs

 

Op 27-11-2019 om 19:44 schreef Mike Sinclair:

I have a similar problem with my dining room light fixture, which uses the high-intensity bulbs.  The only way to rotate them is with my thumbs.  The real problem is that the socket gets loose, and just rotates with the bulb.  I have taken most of them apart and re-tightened them, but hard to get at, especially when standing on a short ladder.

Mike

On 11/26/2019 5:41 PM, jim via Healeys wrote:

Like this?

 

On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:56:16 PM UTC, Michael Oritt  <mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com> <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote: 

 

 

I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on the bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.  Unlike later cars the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is straight with no shoulder and does not project very far beyond the surface of the receptacle. 

I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?

 

Best--Michael Oritt

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Thu Nov 28 02:32:07 2019
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Thu, 28 Nov 2019 10:32:07 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Bulb holder issue
In-Reply-To: <431856941.6232927.1574892228529@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAPTa0B4goa5NDej4bb+kuugfCZV5d0BtK_qF_N5yjo0H0twhWw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1403798857.3818950.1574818894734@mail.yahoo.com>
 <c034905f-dea3-2eb6-5c26-e9ae8bcedc39@comcast.net>
 <37f18e6d-d5ff-19c8-5347-13998e360a60@chello.nl>
 <431856941.6232927.1574892228529@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ff29aa2a-0629-112e-f1de-83973420359d@chello.nl>

Sorry to disagree. It is a multipurpose fluid. Not an ideal lubricant or 
penetrating oil but it will do for occasions like this. It is also a 
water dispersant and cleaning agent a.o.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 27-11-2019 om 23:03 schreef Michael MacLean:
> Again, WD 40 is not a lubricant.? It's purpose is to displace water.? 
> In the past I have used it inside a distributor cap that got wet to 
> get the car running again.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Wednesday, November 27, 2019, 1:11:35 PM PST, Kees Oudesluijs 
> <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
>
>
> You could always try to get some WD-40 in the socket to reduce the 
> friction to rotate the bulb.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 27-11-2019 om 19:44 schreef Mike Sinclair:
>>
>> I have a similar problem with my dining room light fixture, which 
>> uses the high-intensity bulbs.? The only way to rotate them is with 
>> my thumbs.? The real problem is that the socket gets loose, and just 
>> rotates with the bulb.? I have taken most of them apart and 
>> re-tightened them, but hard to get at, especially when standing on a 
>> short ladder.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> On 11/26/2019 5:41 PM, jim via Healeys wrote:
>>> Like this?
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, November 26, 2019, 9:56:16 PM UTC, Michael Oritt 
>>> <michael.oritt at gmail.com> <mailto:michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I have been struggling with the removal/replacement of the halogen 
>>> taillight bulbs on my car. I simply cannot get q good enough grip on 
>>> the bulb to push/turn and remove it from the bayonet socket.? Unlike 
>>> later cars the glass lens on the 100 is almost flat, the bulb is 
>>> straight with no shoulder and does not project very far beyond the 
>>> surface of the receptacle.
>>>
>>> I'm sure there is a trick here--can anyone share it with me?
>>>
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
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>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
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