From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Mar  1 00:33:55 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 20:33:55 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Spotted Naples Florida
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLCu_NvZABK6JraWwzzwb8YWms4xu6wv-VRMtF2kvPqDQ@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone on thelist?
[image: image.png]
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From maxandreb1 at yahoo.com  Sun Mar  1 14:52:18 2020
From: maxandreb1 at yahoo.com (Maurice Maxwell)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 21:52:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 2020
In-Reply-To: <59030b46-ca41-404d-b65d-0e5ffc2b0f9d@me.com>
References: <59030b46-ca41-404d-b65d-0e5ffc2b0f9d@me.com>
Message-ID: <1981695375.1897156.1583099538967@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi Michael. ?Rebecca and I are going by Auto Train from Lorton VA.?Maurice?


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, February 27, 2020, 1:49 PM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I'll respond, but I'm not going. So have my fun for me! I did make it to Deadwood, without a car, but it was one of the best events I've been to so far. Hope this one measures up! (But how could it not?)EnjoySteven KingsburyNot running yet, but stay tuned!
On February 27, 2020 at 8:57 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:


I am heading down to attend Conclave in Crystal River.? Is anyone else from the list attending?? If so a meet-up might be nice.? (I asked this over on BCF and--surprisingly--got no responses.)
Best--Michael Oritt_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com


_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Mar  1 15:00:28 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 14:00:28 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.
Message-ID: <CABXhz88Gu8N1v7r+qwcu188-PtLUgRkE4=3uboqwO4hQraWg6Q@mail.gmail.com>

anyone recognize this van?
[image: image.png]
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sun Mar  1 15:15:47 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:15:47 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88Gu8N1v7r+qwcu188-PtLUgRkE4=3uboqwO4hQraWg6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88Gu8N1v7r+qwcu188-PtLUgRkE4=3uboqwO4hQraWg6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <69e25037-1049-59de-282e-93053b2d599c@chello.nl>

Looks like some Austin van. I think the Jensen factory could have made 
these for Austin.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 1-3-2020 om 23:00 schreef i erbs:
> anyone recognize this van?
> image.png
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB MG
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun Mar  1 15:23:57 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 09:23:57 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88Gu8N1v7r+qwcu188-PtLUgRkE4=3uboqwO4hQraWg6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88Gu8N1v7r+qwcu188-PtLUgRkE4=3uboqwO4hQraWg6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003c01d5f018$1a165450$4e42fcf0$@tpg.com.au>

Looks like an Austin A70 van. Either a Hampshire or Hereford.

 

These are fitted with the 2.2 litre version of the same engine fitted to the 100. During the early 1970s I had a 2.2 litre engine in the 100 I had at the time and to keep up with everyone else it used to valve bounce all the time. Of course we were all mad as cut snakes back then.

 

A friend had one fitted with a BN2 engine and gearbox and it was a lot of fun to drive.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Monday, 2 March 2020 9:00 AM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.

 

anyone recognize this van?

image.png

Ira Erbs

Portland,OR

      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

          BT7 engine and disk brakes

 

 

1967 MGB   MG <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/assets/images/MG_emblem.jpg> 

 

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti

Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Mar  1 15:24:55 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 14:24:55 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.
In-Reply-To: <003c01d5f018$1a165450$4e42fcf0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <CABXhz88Gu8N1v7r+qwcu188-PtLUgRkE4=3uboqwO4hQraWg6Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <003c01d5f018$1a165450$4e42fcf0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89-F+c73z8YHmL+7C5TdBg-xu+HGrbSrYdyfo3jnLGE9A@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks
Figured it was an Austin Van
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Sun, Mar 1, 2020 at 2:24 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> Looks like an Austin A70 van. Either a Hampshire or Hereford.
>
>
>
> These are fitted with the 2.2 litre version of the same engine fitted to
> the 100. During the early 1970s I had a 2.2 litre engine in the 100 I had
> at the time and to keep up with everyone else it used to valve bounce all
> the time. Of course we were all mad as cut snakes back then.
>
>
>
> A friend had one fitted with a BN2 engine and gearbox and it was a lot of
> fun to drive.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *i
> erbs
> *Sent:* Monday, 2 March 2020 9:00 AM
> *To:* Ahealey help
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.
>
>
>
> anyone recognize this van?
>
> [image: image.png]
>
> Ira Erbs
>
> Portland,OR
>
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
>
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
>
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sun Mar  1 15:27:34 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 09:27:34 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88Gu8N1v7r+qwcu188-PtLUgRkE4=3uboqwO4hQraWg6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88Gu8N1v7r+qwcu188-PtLUgRkE4=3uboqwO4hQraWg6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <005d01d5f018$9b566730$d2033590$@tpg.com.au>

I take it back.

 

It?s an Austin A40 van fitted with a less than powerful 1.2 litre four cylinder engine.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

 

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6e/Austin_A40_Countryman.jpg/1280px-Austin_A40_Countryman.jpg

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Monday, 2 March 2020 9:00 AM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.

 

anyone recognize this van?

 

Ira Erbs

Portland,OR

      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)

          BT7 engine and disk brakes

 

 

1967 MGB   MG <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/assets/images/MG_emblem.jpg> 

 

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti

Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Mar  1 15:28:23 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 14:28:23 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.
In-Reply-To: <005d01d5f018$9b566730$d2033590$@tpg.com.au>
References: <CABXhz88Gu8N1v7r+qwcu188-PtLUgRkE4=3uboqwO4hQraWg6Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <005d01d5f018$9b566730$d2033590$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89dk_b9aQ0_tbCTHWAYrNu7tFjP6G4v=CQtU5x86LT3UQ@mail.gmail.com>

Quite the dog...

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Sun, Mar 1, 2020, 2:27 PM Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> I take it back.
>
>
>
> It?s an Austin A40 van fitted with a less than powerful 1.2 litre four
> cylinder engine.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
>
>
> [image:
> https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6e/Austin_A40_Countryman.jpg/1280px-Austin_A40_Countryman.jpg]
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *i
> erbs
> *Sent:* Monday, 2 March 2020 9:00 AM
> *To:* Ahealey help
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.
>
>
>
> anyone recognize this van?
>
>
>
> Ira Erbs
>
> Portland,OR
>
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
>
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
>
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Mar  1 15:41:20 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 17:41:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88Gu8N1v7r+qwcu188-PtLUgRkE4=3uboqwO4hQraWg6Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88Gu8N1v7r+qwcu188-PtLUgRkE4=3uboqwO4hQraWg6Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.32.1583102491.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Austin A40 Countryman I think?

Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: i erbs
Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2020 5:10 PM
To: Ahealey help
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.

anyone recognize this van?

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
? ? ? ?? (_________________________)
? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB ?

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words

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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar  1 16:15:12 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:15:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Side screens
Message-ID: <BN6PR15MB16983DBBA495FA6032813D28BFE60@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

?here?s my BN7 today with sidescreens :
They measure approx 13 1/2 tall by about 26 long.
Look like yours

[cid:5D9EC47F-6F3E-47FA-9CFA-F617882EF709]


[cid:AB5838F6-2FED-492F-BA86-3AA500931F6E]

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440



Regards,
Richard C

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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar  1 16:22:28 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 23:22:28 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Side screens
In-Reply-To: <BN6PR15MB16983DBBA495FA6032813D28BFE60@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BN6PR15MB16983DBBA495FA6032813D28BFE60@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <BN6PR15MB1698E49278C4AFAFAB62C78EBFE60@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

To clarify the 26? length is about halfway up from the bottom.

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440


> On Mar 1, 2020, at 17:15, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> ?here?s my BN7 today with sidescreens :
> They measure approx 13 1/2 tall by about 26 long.
> Look like yours
> 
> <IMG_8030.jpg>
> 
> 
> 
> <IMG_8031.jpg>
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 #440
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
> 
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From ross.osborne at xtra.co.nz  Sun Mar  1 17:01:15 2020
From: ross.osborne at xtra.co.nz (Ross Osborne)
Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 13:01:15 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 70
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7133.1583101452.2964.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7133.1583101452.2964.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <002201d5f025$b2856340$179029c0$@osborne@xtra.co.nz>

It is an Austin A40 Van from the Devon range.
A total of 78,242 were made from 1947 - 1957 and powered by a 1197cc 4
cylinder motor.


-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
healeys-request at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, March 2, 2020 11:24 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 13, Issue 70

Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
	healeys at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
	http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
	healeys-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
	healeys-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."


From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar  1 17:04:29 2020
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 00:04:29 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 frame holes
Message-ID: <CH2PR04MB66024CE8CE96A4996624C726D4E60@CH2PR04MB6602.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Anyone know what factory holes are on the underside of the front frame cross member section? (BN2) Pics would be great.
TY, Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Sun Mar  1 17:30:51 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 19:30:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZeLCKQa_RT5B_zB_T0ypCE1s4TT9pAJPPp3oFWp1_2RsQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88Gu8N1v7r+qwcu188-PtLUgRkE4=3uboqwO4hQraWg6Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAGfzsZeLCKQa_RT5B_zB_T0ypCE1s4TT9pAJPPp3oFWp1_2RsQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZdVr3=Eae5LmP2zSwruRrmicsd-w_9iR5n4Q+YJc9AZ_w@mail.gmail.com>

---------- Forwarded message ---------
From: HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com>
Date: Sun, Mar 1, 2020 at 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healey Van? person claims it's a Healey van.
To: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>


I remember reading somewhere, sometime that someone (maybe BMC Comps Dept)
fitted a Healey C Series into an Austin van and enjoyed blowing off all the
other cars on the road.

Happy Healeying,
Rick Neville

On Sun, Mar 1, 2020 at 5:21 PM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> anyone recognize this van?
> [image: image.png]
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Mar  1 17:41:33 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 16:41:33 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Side screens
In-Reply-To: <BN6PR15MB1698E49278C4AFAFAB62C78EBFE60@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BN6PR15MB16983DBBA495FA6032813D28BFE60@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <BN6PR15MB1698E49278C4AFAFAB62C78EBFE60@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <6FFE9260A6A44093AA37334B4746DABE@AllInOne>

Hello,

I was trying to sort out my side screens a few weeks ago and was sent this
very helpful document.

Harold

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard
Collins
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2020 3:22 PM
To: alfuller194 at gmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side screens

To clarify the 26" length is about halfway up from the bottom.

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440


> On Mar 1, 2020, at 17:15, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
wrote:
> 
> ?
> ?here's my BN7 today with sidescreens :
> They measure approx 13 1/2 tall by about 26 long.
> Look like yours
> 
> <IMG_8030.jpg>
> 
> 
> 
> <IMG_8031.jpg>
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 #440
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.co
> m
> 
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From deejay2650 at gmail.com  Sun Mar  1 18:09:23 2020
From: deejay2650 at gmail.com (Deejay2650 .)
Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 12:09:23 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Van?
Message-ID: <CAH2i9ktGK7aJfi7zt7PXHHtirosC=HaUUJ1TSfywQM_9PZUyLA@mail.gmail.com>

My thoughts are that it is not an A70, but an Austin A40 Devon Van
(Sorry PQ) Check out this image.
Happy Healying,
Darryl Ross
BJ8L 41258
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Mar  1 19:12:47 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 1 Mar 2020 21:12:47 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Conclave 2020
In-Reply-To: <1981695375.1897156.1583099538967@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <59030b46-ca41-404d-b65d-0e5ffc2b0f9d@me.com>
 <1981695375.1897156.1583099538967@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B67Cy7K+waaov+z5mbgcZkuKtjnidy-c8s9647gj+WFQA@mail.gmail.com>

I am on the AT as well, departing Sunday.  What about you?

On Sun, Mar 1, 2020, 4:52 PM Maurice Maxwell <maxandreb1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Hi Michael.  Rebecca and I are going by Auto Train from Lorton VA.
> Maurice
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
> <https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS>
>
> On Thursday, February 27, 2020, 1:49 PM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> I'll respond, but I'm not going. So have my fun for me! I did make it to
> Deadwood, without a car, but it was one of the best events I've been to so
> far. Hope this one measures up! (But how could it not?)
> Enjoy
> Steven Kingsbury
> Not running yet, but stay tuned!
>
> On February 27, 2020 at 8:57 AM, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> I am heading down to attend Conclave in Crystal River.  Is anyone else
> from the list attending?  If so a meet-up might be nice.  (I asked this
> over on BCF and--surprisingly--got no responses.)
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/maxandreb1 at yahoo.com
>
>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Mon Mar  2 03:40:28 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 21:40:28 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?
References: <217302508.2038499.1581648642322.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <217302508.2038499.1581648642322@mail.yahoo.com>
 <008101d5e2f9$ea9d7760$bfd86620$@tpg.com.au>
 <022901d5e355$d1cf5990$756e0cb0$@gmail.com> 
Message-ID: <018101d5f07e$fe41ac40$fac504c0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Just on two weeks back the question was raised about the new book by John Nikas titled:-

 

Healey - the Men & the Machines

 

I responded that I had read and reviewed the book. However I didn?t want my review to be sent out until it had been published.

 

The review has now been published in Issue 22 of the Australian Austin-Healey of which I am the editor. 

 

Some people here in Australia have told me that I have been very lenient on the publication. 

 

My review (less photos) is attached for those who wish to read it.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick & Caroline Quinn
Sent: 14 February 2020 05:45
To: editorgary at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Hello Gary

 

I have read and reviewed the book. 

 

The two page review is in the next issue of the Australian Austin-Healey the printing of which was completed today.

 

If you wish I can send you the review next week.

 

Best wishes

 

Patrick

 

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of editorgary--- via Healeys
Sent: Friday, 14 February 2020 1:51 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] New Nikas Healey Book?

 

Has anyone seen the new Healey book by John Nikas? Is it worth the pricey price tag?

gary

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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Mon Mar  2 15:08:20 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 17:08:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Side screens
In-Reply-To: <6FFE9260A6A44093AA37334B4746DABE@AllInOne>
References: <BN6PR15MB16983DBBA495FA6032813D28BFE60@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <BN6PR15MB1698E49278C4AFAFAB62C78EBFE60@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <6FFE9260A6A44093AA37334B4746DABE@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <001801d5f0df$162ed980$428c8c80$@gmail.com>

Thanks! It looks like they are the last ones in the writeup, as they have
the drain slots at the bottoms...

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> 
Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2020 7:42 PM
To: 'Richard Collins' <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>; alfuller194 at gmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Side screens

Hello,

I was trying to sort out my side screens a few weeks ago and was sent this
very helpful document.

Harold

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard
Collins
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2020 3:22 PM
To: alfuller194 at gmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side screens

To clarify the 26" length is about halfway up from the bottom.

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440


> On Mar 1, 2020, at 17:15, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
wrote:
> 
> ?
> ?here's my BN7 today with sidescreens :
> They measure approx 13 1/2 tall by about 26 long.
> Look like yours
> 
> <IMG_8030.jpg>
> 
> 
> 
> <IMG_8031.jpg>
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 #440
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.co
> m
> 


From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Mar  2 15:18:08 2020
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 2 Mar 2020 17:18:08 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Side screens
In-Reply-To: <001801d5f0df$162ed980$428c8c80$@gmail.com>
References: <BN6PR15MB16983DBBA495FA6032813D28BFE60@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <BN6PR15MB1698E49278C4AFAFAB62C78EBFE60@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <6FFE9260A6A44093AA37334B4746DABE@AllInOne>
 <001801d5f0df$162ed980$428c8c80$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001c01d5f0e0$748fcf60$5daf6e20$@verizon.net>

BTW I have this writeup on my site.

John Sims
www.healey6.com
Matawan, NJ

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of
alfuller194 at gmail.com
Sent: Monday, March 2, 2020 5:08 PM
To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>; 'Richard Collins'
<gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side screens

Thanks! It looks like they are the last ones in the writeup, as they have
the drain slots at the bottoms...

----------------
All the best,

Al Fuller

-----Original Message-----
From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 1, 2020 7:42 PM
To: 'Richard Collins' <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>; alfuller194 at gmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Side screens

Hello,

I was trying to sort out my side screens a few weeks ago and was sent this
very helpful document.

Harold

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard
Collins
Sent: Sunday, March 01, 2020 3:22 PM
To: alfuller194 at gmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Side screens

To clarify the 26" length is about halfway up from the bottom.

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440


> On Mar 1, 2020, at 17:15, Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
wrote:
> 
> ?
> ?here's my BN7 today with sidescreens :
> They measure approx 13 1/2 tall by about 26 long.
> Look like yours
> 
> <IMG_8030.jpg>
> 
> 
> 
> <IMG_8031.jpg>
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 #440
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.co
> m
> 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ahbn6 at verizon.net


From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue Mar  3 06:04:34 2020
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 00:04:34 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Bj8 rear shock Arms
Message-ID: <A22FF419-D750-4669-91EF-505BA6587076@gmail.com>

Hey men 
I'm after a pair of late BJ8 rear shock arms. 
Don't need the shocks, just the arms 
It's ok if the shocks are stuffed, but given the postage cost, I'd rather just the arms please. 
Thanks in advance
Best 
Chris 

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue Mar  3 06:40:30 2020
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 00:40:30 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Late BJ8 rear shock arms
Message-ID: <A3CFEB44-B834-43E0-ADDC-87D4D969428B@gmail.com>

Hey men 
I'm after a pair of late BJ8 rear shock arms. 
Don't need the shocks, just the arms 
It's ok if the shocks are stuffed, but given the postage cost, I'd rather just the arms please. 
Thanks in advance
Best 
Chris

From austin.healey at gmail.com  Tue Mar  3 06:42:48 2020
From: austin.healey at gmail.com (Chris Dimmock)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 00:42:48 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Late BJ 8 rear shock arms wanted
Message-ID: <46C10DE7-2300-4190-8B9E-343EE05575BA@gmail.com>

Hey men 
I'm after a pair of late BJ8 rear shock arms. 
Don't need the shocks, just the arms 
It's ok if the shocks are stuffed, but given the postage cost, I'd rather just the arms please. 
Thanks in advance
Best 
Chris

From schottc at knology.net  Tue Mar  3 06:54:53 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2020 08:54:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [Healeys] Late BJ8 rear shock arms
In-Reply-To: <A3CFEB44-B834-43E0-ADDC-87D4D969428B@gmail.com>
References: <A3CFEB44-B834-43E0-ADDC-87D4D969428B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <622508751.554566.1583243693881.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Chris, 

Try World Wide Auto Parts in Madison, WI. Phone: 608-223-9400 

They rebuild all types of shocks and might have just the arms. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Chris Dimmock" <austin.healey at gmail.com> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Tuesday, March 3, 2020 7:40:30 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] Late BJ8 rear shock arms 

Hey men 
I'm after a pair of late BJ8 rear shock arms. 
Don't need the shocks, just the arms 
It's ok if the shocks are stuffed, but given the postage cost, I'd rather just the arms please. 
Thanks in advance 
Best 
Chris 
_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Tue Mar  3 11:23:59 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2020 18:23:59 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 diff
Message-ID: <000501d5f188$e9529f50$bbf7ddf0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

There is a 3:54 3000 diff on UK eBay.:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Austin-Healey-3000-3-54-Ratio-Differential/124102
970505?hash=item1ce51d0c89:g:ts8AAOSwdAleXAtG

Quite a desirable thing and usually people looking for one.

Simon

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From wjc3 at citlink.net  Tue Mar  3 15:42:38 2020
From: wjc3 at citlink.net (wjc3 at citlink.net)
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2020 22:42:38 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 mk3 phase2
References: <1652089786.3922622.1583275358783.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1652089786.3922622.1583275358783@mail.yahoo.com>

What's the rear ratio

Sent from Frontier Yahoo Mail on Android
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From gmolony1 at bigpond.com  Tue Mar  3 18:14:39 2020
From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 12:14:39 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 diff
In-Reply-To: <000501d5f188$e9529f50$bbf7ddf0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000501d5f188$e9529f50$bbf7ddf0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <B43EB60D141B4D6FB598880575E67593@msiallinone>

Wow

That?s cheap at that price if you can get it freight might be the killer.

There much more expensive here down under if you can find one upwards of $1000 Aus Bit like hens teeth to find
but I guess if you figure in the freight costs not so cheap.

Think I will hang on to the spare one in my garage

Graeme ( BJ8 )
Mt Martha Aust.


From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2020 5:23 AM
To: 'Healeys' 
Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 diff

There is a 3:54 3000 diff on UK eBay.:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Austin-Healey-3000-3-54-Ratio-Differential/124102970505?hash=item1ce51d0c89:g:ts8AAOSwdAleXAtG


Quite a desirable thing and usually people looking for one.

Simon



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Tue Mar  3 20:16:00 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Tue, 3 Mar 2020 19:16:00 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 mk3 phase2
In-Reply-To: <1652089786.3922622.1583275358783@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1652089786.3922622.1583275358783.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1652089786.3922622.1583275358783@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqMW89mz96481fGW_4X7hR_01JLxRCxxeRP7NbGcdw_KqQ@mail.gmail.com>

Overdrive 3000s had a 3.9 diff. 3000s without overdrive had a 3.54

On Tue, Mar 3, 2020 at 2:46 PM wjc3 at citlink.net <wjc3 at citlink.net> wrote:

> What's the rear ratio
>
> Sent from Frontier Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
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From llennep at verizon.net  Wed Mar  4 08:19:08 2020
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 15:19:08 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 diff
In-Reply-To: <000501d5f188$e9529f50$bbf7ddf0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000501d5f188$e9529f50$bbf7ddf0$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <1168874879.4253854.1583335148955@mail.yahoo.com>

WOW? Makes me want to part out my BJ8 (with 3.5 added)? :)


-----Original Message-----
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Mar 3, 2020 1:23 pm
Subject: [Healeys] 3:54 diff

<!--#yiv9834450510 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9834450510 #yiv9834450510 p.yiv9834450510MsoNormal, #yiv9834450510 li.yiv9834450510MsoNormal, #yiv9834450510 div.yiv9834450510MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv9834450510 span.yiv9834450510EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9834450510 .yiv9834450510MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv9834450510 div.yiv9834450510WordSection1 {}-->There is a 3:54 3000 diff on UK eBay.:-https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Austin-Healey-3000-3-54-Ratio-Differential/124102970505?hash=item1ce51d0c89:g:ts8AAOSwdAleXAtGQuite a desirable thing and usually people looking for one.Simon_______________________________________________
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Mar  4 12:25:56 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 14:25:56 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Return to an old great idea
Message-ID: <mailman.33.1583349963.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Somethings just get better with age. NASCAR announced their new version of wheels that will be used during sanctioned racing, a center lock wheel. Yep those old knockoffs that we both love and detest will be revamped and used on an 18 inch non steel wheel. Granted the ears will be missing, hence no hammers will be flying around the pit stop areas. Suspect there will be a pneumatic gun used instead. Have to wonder how long it will be until these beasts of the past return to production cars??? 
Hope everyone is having a good day and the storms (twisters) of late missed all of you. 
Perry
If you click on the pic it will get bigger?.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From mkgoodman at att.net  Wed Mar  4 12:34:59 2020
From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 19:34:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE
References: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>

If you change from a 3.90 to a 3.54 rear end you lose most of 1st gear.? I changed my overdrive on my BJ8 to a BN2and in 4th gear overdrive my engine operates about 600 RPM lower.? It is a much better way to go.
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Mar  4 13:19:26 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 09:19:26 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Return to an old great idea
In-Reply-To: <20200304192610.90428A1069@autox.team.net>
References: <20200304192610.90428A1069@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLjej3f3sFS7OoP=CENqqPeu_O1NKgTaKht8c_z223JCA@mail.gmail.com>

I presume that Messrs Rudge and Whitworth didn't get any credit ... how did
I know. ???

On Thu, Mar 5, 2020, 8:26 AM Perry via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Somethings just get better with age. NASCAR announced their new version of
> wheels that will be used during sanctioned racing, a center lock wheel. Yep
> those old knockoffs that we both love and detest will be revamped and used
> on an 18 inch non steel wheel. Granted the ears will be missing, hence no
> hammers will be flying around the pit stop areas. Suspect there will be a
> pneumatic gun used instead. Have to wonder how long it will be until these
> beasts of the past return to production cars???
>
> Hope everyone is having a good day and the storms (twisters) of late
> missed all of you.
>
> Perry
>
> If you click on the pic it will get bigger?.
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Mar  4 13:32:43 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 20:32:43 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Return to an old great idea
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLjej3f3sFS7OoP=CENqqPeu_O1NKgTaKht8c_z223JCA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20200304192610.90428A1069@autox.team.net>,
 <CAB3i7LLjej3f3sFS7OoP=CENqqPeu_O1NKgTaKht8c_z223JCA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB1462F94125FD9319826548EAD1E50@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

What I find funny in this first message, it said: ? these wheels will be used in sanctioned racing?, NASCRAP would not know what racing is, it nothing but a show, racing is the furthest thing from their minds. When someone, after turning left for an hour or more, gets too far ahead, a yellow flag suddenly appears out of nowhere, so it looks like they are all close in the end.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Michael Salter<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: March 4, 2020 2:15 PM
To: Perry<mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Return to an old great idea

I presume that Messrs Rudge and Whitworth didn't get any credit ... how did I know. ???

On Thu, Mar 5, 2020, 8:26 AM Perry via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Somethings just get better with age. NASCAR announced their new version of wheels that will be used during sanctioned racing, a center lock wheel. Yep those old knockoffs that we both love and detest will be revamped and used on an 18 inch non steel wheel. Granted the ears will be missing, hence no hammers will be flying around the pit stop areas. Suspect there will be a pneumatic gun used instead. Have to wonder how long it will be until these beasts of the past return to production cars???
Hope everyone is having a good day and the storms (twisters) of late missed all of you.
Perry
If you click on the pic it will get bigger?.

Sent from Mail<https://nam10.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=02%7C01%7C%7C7a16e02b6ac74a4f5aeb08d7c078d506%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637189497509916161&sdata=%2FtwWR%2BKQ2u0GOcOq7MQozEG7KpxGTSYTaa9NV7FBqQQ%3D&reserved=0> for Windows 10

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From gmolony1 at bigpond.com  Wed Mar  4 17:49:17 2020
From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony)
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 11:49:17 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Return to an old great idea
In-Reply-To: <20200304192630.5F448A11B3@autox.team.net>
References: <20200304192630.5F448A11B3@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <ADFDE843A4184C1D9552EFF61407327B@msiallinone>

We have been using these on the V8 Supercars in our premium touring car racing series for years. Often wondered why NASCAR used such an archaic way of fixing there wheels?

Graeme M
Vic. Aust


From: Perry via Healeys 
Sent: Thursday, March 5, 2020 6:25 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: [Healeys] Return to an old great idea

Somethings just get better with age. NASCAR announced their new version of wheels that will be used during sanctioned racing, a center lock wheel. Yep those old knockoffs that we both love and detest will be revamped and used on an 18 inch non steel wheel. Granted the ears will be missing, hence no hammers will be flying around the pit stop areas. Suspect there will be a pneumatic gun used instead. Have to wonder how long it will be until these beasts of the past return to production cars??? 

Hope everyone is having a good day and the storms (twisters) of late missed all of you. 

Perry

If you click on the pic it will get bigger?.

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 



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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Mar  4 19:50:47 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 18:50:47 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE
In-Reply-To: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <d4515daa-36a5-a56b-2a31-899a64aaac72@comcast.net>

I respectfully disagree.? First is so low in a Healey I often started in 
second before I put a 3.54 diff in my BJ8.? I still start in second if 
I'm rolling at all, facing downhill or it just won't go into first 
(plenty of low-end torque in the old lump).? Second is more usable as 
well (first and second are too close together IMO; I barely get into 
second before it's time to upshift).? I wouldn't mind a .28 OD ratio 
with a 3.54 diff either.

Bob


On 3/4/2020 11:34 AM, Mark Goodman wrote:
> If you change from a 3.90 to a 3.54 rear end you lose most of 1st 
> gear.? I changed my overdrive on my BJ8 to a BN2
> and in 4th gear overdrive my engine operates about 600 RPM lower.? It 
> is a much better way to go.
>

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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Wed Mar  4 19:55:39 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 02:55:39 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 mk3 phase2
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqMW89mz96481fGW_4X7hR_01JLxRCxxeRP7NbGcdw_KqQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1652089786.3922622.1583275358783.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1652089786.3922622.1583275358783@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CAKkXjqMW89mz96481fGW_4X7hR_01JLxRCxxeRP7NbGcdw_KqQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BN6PR15MB16983CC8A555D75B4061751EBFE20@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Hmmm that opens up an interesting question re my BN7:
My Heritage Certificate says it came without overdrive... but it now has a top shifter and overdrive; the original side shifter was in the barn when I found the car but my wife ?suggested? I sell it as it occupied too much space in my ridiculously  expensive 600 Sq ft apt in SFO at the time. I rebuilder up in Napa bought it as I recall.
Guess I need to find a graph to see what gears I really have in it
Regards,
Richard C
BN7 #440

On Mar 3, 2020, at 21:19, richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Overdrive 3000s had a 3.9 diff. 3000s without overdrive had a 3.54

On Tue, Mar 3, 2020 at 2:46 PM wjc3 at citlink.net<mailto:wjc3 at citlink.net> <wjc3 at citlink.net<mailto:wjc3 at citlink.net>> wrote:
What's the rear ratio

Sent from Frontier Yahoo Mail on Android<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
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From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Mar  4 20:00:09 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 03:00:09 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE
In-Reply-To: <d4515daa-36a5-a56b-2a31-899a64aaac72@comcast.net>
References: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <d4515daa-36a5-a56b-2a31-899a64aaac72@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB343235DA6C6754FEBB71DD8EA5E20@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

I have a 1.28 overdrive with a set of Mike Lempert?s 3.54:1 final drive gears in my 100 and I  am very happy with the setup.

It is very tractable around town and relaxed cruising on the highway.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, March 5, 2020 2:50:47 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE

I respectfully disagree.  First is so low in a Healey I often started in second before I put a 3.54 diff in my BJ8.  I still start in second if I'm rolling at all, facing downhill or it just won't go into first (plenty of low-end torque in the old lump).  Second is more usable as well (first and second are too close together IMO; I barely get into second before it's time to upshift).  I wouldn't mind a .28 OD ratio with a 3.54 diff either.

Bob


On 3/4/2020 11:34 AM, Mark Goodman wrote:
If you change from a 3.90 to a 3.54 rear end you lose most of 1st gear.  I changed my overdrive on my BJ8 to a BN2
and in 4th gear overdrive my engine operates about 600 RPM lower.  It is a much better way to go.


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Mar  4 20:00:23 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 19:00:23 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Return to an old great idea
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR2201MB1462F94125FD9319826548EAD1E50@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <20200304192610.90428A1069@autox.team.net>
 <CAB3i7LLjej3f3sFS7OoP=CENqqPeu_O1NKgTaKht8c_z223JCA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462F94125FD9319826548EAD1E50@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <e1bc610d-cc16-b08c-eff6-7fbad5e58d9e@comcast.net>

Caught this the other day (note the center-locker is 'more durable'):

https://jalopnik.com/nascar-is-officially-moving-to-a-centerlocking-wheel-de-1842037674



On 3/4/2020 12:32 PM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
> What I find funny in this first message, it said: ? these wheels will 
> be used in sanctioned racing?, NASCRAP would not know what racing is, 
> it nothing but a show, racing is the furthest thing from their minds. 
> When someone, after turning left for an hour or more, gets too far 
> ahead, a yellow flag suddenly appears out of nowhere, so it looks like 
> they are all close in the end.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Michael Salter <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *March 4, 2020 2:15 PM
> *To: *Perry <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Return to an old great idea
>
> I presume that Messrs Rudge and Whitworth didn't get any credit ... 
> how did I know. ???
>
> On Thu, Mar 5, 2020, 8:26 AM Perry via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Somethings just get better with age. NASCAR announced their new
>     version of wheels that will be used during sanctioned racing, a
>     center lock wheel. Yep those old knockoffs that we both love and
>     detest will be revamped and used on an 18 inch non steel wheel.
>     Granted the ears will be missing, hence no hammers will be flying
>     around the pit stop areas. Suspect there will be a pneumatic gun
>     used instead. Have to wonder how long it will be until these
>     beasts of the past return to production cars???
>
>     Hope everyone is having a good day and the storms (twisters) of
>     late missed all of you.
>
>     Perry
>
>     If you click on the pic it will get bigger?.
>
>     Sent from Mail
>     <https://nam10.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=02%7C01%7C%7C7a16e02b6ac74a4f5aeb08d7c078d506%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637189497509916161&sdata=%2FtwWR%2BKQ2u0GOcOq7MQozEG7KpxGTSYTaa9NV7FBqQQ%3D&reserved=0>
>     for Windows 10
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Mar  4 20:05:17 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 19:05:17 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Return to an old great idea
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR2201MB1462F94125FD9319826548EAD1E50@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <20200304192610.90428A1069@autox.team.net>
 <CAB3i7LLjej3f3sFS7OoP=CENqqPeu_O1NKgTaKht8c_z223JCA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR2201MB1462F94125FD9319826548EAD1E50@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <0457dc7d-5e10-8ab0-9a07-812f9e88e454@comcast.net>

Oh nooooooo!!!?? Next you're gonna say professional 'wrestling' is 
rigged, too!


On 3/4/2020 12:32 PM, Jean Caron wrote:
>
> What I find funny in this first message, it said: ? these wheels will 
> be used in sanctioned racing?, NASCRAP would not know what racing is, 
> it nothing but a show, racing is the furthest thing from their minds. 
> When someone, after turning left for an hour or more, gets too far 
> ahead, a yellow flag suddenly appears out of nowhere, so it looks like 
> they are all close in the end.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Michael Salter <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *March 4, 2020 2:15 PM
> *To: *Perry <mailto:healeyguy at aol.com>
> *Cc: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Return to an old great idea
>
> I presume that Messrs Rudge and Whitworth didn't get any credit ... 
> how did I know. ???
>
> On Thu, Mar 5, 2020, 8:26 AM Perry via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Somethings just get better with age. NASCAR announced their new
>     version of wheels that will be used during sanctioned racing, a
>     center lock wheel. Yep those old knockoffs that we both love and
>     detest will be revamped and used on an 18 inch non steel wheel.
>     Granted the ears will be missing, hence no hammers will be flying
>     around the pit stop areas. Suspect there will be a pneumatic gun
>     used instead. Have to wonder how long it will be until these
>     beasts of the past return to production cars???
>
>     Hope everyone is having a good day and the storms (twisters) of
>     late missed all of you.
>
>     Perry
>
>     If you click on the pic it will get bigger?.
>
>     Sent from Mail
>     <https://nam10.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=02%7C01%7C%7C7a16e02b6ac74a4f5aeb08d7c078d506%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637189497509916161&sdata=%2FtwWR%2BKQ2u0GOcOq7MQozEG7KpxGTSYTaa9NV7FBqQQ%3D&reserved=0>
>     for Windows 10
>
>

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Wed Mar  4 21:11:52 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 20:11:52 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE
In-Reply-To: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqPADBFOhqsFqPOFRHfC9HHGr9XHMe_ydvJ4vAYmM5SUvQ@mail.gmail.com>

Wrong.  When you go from a 3.90 to a 3.54 rear end you now have a first
gear that is much more useful ... it is not so low geared anymore.

On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 11:35 AM Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at att.net> wrote:

> If you change from a 3.90 to a 3.54 rear end you lose most of 1st gear.  I
> changed my overdrive on my BJ8 to a BN2
> and in 4th gear overdrive my engine operates about 600 RPM lower.  It is a
> much better way to go.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Mar  4 21:46:45 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 04:46:45 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqPADBFOhqsFqPOFRHfC9HHGr9XHMe_ydvJ4vAYmM5SUvQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CAKkXjqPADBFOhqsFqPOFRHfC9HHGr9XHMe_ydvJ4vAYmM5SUvQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB3432D1EC70E8F1D1FD2108D1A5E20@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Still doesn't make my unblocked first gear usable, but maybe I'll start doing tractor pulls...

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 5, 2020 4:11 AM
To: Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at att.net>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE

Wrong.  When you go from a 3.90 to a 3.54 rear end you now have a first gear that is much more useful ... it is not so low geared anymore.

On Wed, Mar 4, 2020 at 11:35 AM Mark Goodman <mkgoodman at att.net<mailto:mkgoodman at att.net>> wrote:
If you change from a 3.90 to a 3.54 rear end you lose most of 1st gear.  I changed my overdrive on my BJ8 to a BN2
and in 4th gear overdrive my engine operates about 600 RPM lower.  It is a much better way to go.
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Mar  4 22:15:47 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 18:15:47 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE
In-Reply-To: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJzPM3_UeKVoSF=FcX344E0=srKt4WHXLKO9jr-gc9XwA@mail.gmail.com>

One consideration regarding the use of 1st gear is the durability of said
gear. With a count of only 13 the straight cut teeth on the laygear tend to
wear very quickly when subjected to any sort of load.
Although laygears and 1st gears are available rebuilding a gearbox is not
an inexpensive exercise so starting off gently in 2nd gear is HIGHLY
recommended.

M

On Thu, Mar 5, 2020, 8:35 AM Mark Goodman, <mkgoodman at att.net> wrote:

> If you change from a 3.90 to a 3.54 rear end you lose most of 1st gear.  I
> changed my overdrive on my BJ8 to a BN2
> and in 4th gear overdrive my engine operates about 600 RPM lower.  It is a
> much better way to go.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Mar  4 22:26:22 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 4 Mar 2020 21:26:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJzPM3_UeKVoSF=FcX344E0=srKt4WHXLKO9jr-gc9XwA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJzPM3_UeKVoSF=FcX344E0=srKt4WHXLKO9jr-gc9XwA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <38a259ba-8779-a1be-822f-179afb7963a1@comcast.net>

Don't forget the laygear shafts; they wear at the ends due to the side 
loads.? Hopefully, the 'uprated' DWM shaft I just installed holds up.

ps.? The only laygears I've seen advertised were 'rebuilt'--i.e. welded 
together--is there a source now for new laygears?

bs

On 3/4/2020 9:15 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> One consideration regarding the use of 1st gear is the durability of 
> said gear. With a count of only 13 the straight cut teeth on the 
> laygear tend to wear very quickly when subjected to any sort of load.
> Although laygears and 1st gears are available rebuilding a gearbox is 
> not an inexpensive exercise so starting off gently in 2nd gear is 
> HIGHLY recommended.
>
> M
>


From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Wed Mar  4 22:30:32 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 05:30:32 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] 3000 mk3 phase2
In-Reply-To: <BN6PR15MB16983CC8A555D75B4061751EBFE20@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1652089786.3922622.1583275358783.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1652089786.3922622.1583275358783@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CAKkXjqMW89mz96481fGW_4X7hR_01JLxRCxxeRP7NbGcdw_KqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <BN6PR15MB16983CC8A555D75B4061751EBFE20@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <000501d5f2af$32f47da0$98dd78e0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

I?ve fitted a 3:54 and a 28%. I wrote an article for our club mag at the time. I?ll spare you that, but here are the figures. I don?t claim the maths to be my own.

 

Our police will usually turn a blind eye to speeds of +/- 85 mph on our ?Motorways?. Conditions permitting. Anything much more and they can get a bit ratty. I did put my foot down once and left it there. The clock said about 120 and rising when I lifted off. Pretty pointless exercise. Car felt OK and the revs, as you?d expect from the tables, were nothing special.

Simon

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Collins
Sent: 05 March 2020 02:56
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 3000 mk3 phase2

 

Hmmm that opens up an interesting question re my BN7: 

My Heritage Certificate says it came without overdrive... but it now has a top shifter and overdrive; the original side shifter was in the barn when I found the car but my wife ?suggested? I sell it as it occupied too much space in my ridiculously  expensive 600 Sq ft apt in SFO at the time. I rebuilder up in Napa bought it as I recall.
Guess I need to find a graph to see what gears I really have in it

Regards, 

Richard C

BN7 #440





On Mar 3, 2020, at 21:19, richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> > wrote:

? 

Overdrive 3000s had a 3.9 diff. 3000s without overdrive had a 3.54 

 

On Tue, Mar 3, 2020 at 2:46 PM wjc3 at citlink.net <mailto:wjc3 at citlink.net>  <wjc3 at citlink.net <mailto:wjc3 at citlink.net> > wrote:

What's the rear ratio

Sent from Frontier Yahoo Mail on Android <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Mar  5 01:51:06 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 5 Mar 2020 21:51:06 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE
In-Reply-To: <38a259ba-8779-a1be-822f-179afb7963a1@comcast.net>
References: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJzPM3_UeKVoSF=FcX344E0=srKt4WHXLKO9jr-gc9XwA@mail.gmail.com>
 <38a259ba-8779-a1be-822f-179afb7963a1@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKmPBPvj7Gomo0azGNezLtA6hj8Qu5oQZQ8Qe_3VsMzoQ@mail.gmail.com>

Quite correct Bob,
However I believe the premature failure of the laygear needle bearings is
caused by circulation of the microscopic chips of hardened steel that are
shed by the 1st, reverse and laygear when people grind them together.
To minimize this I always install a magnet on the gearbox drain plug to
supplement the overdrive one.
I have been restoring (replacing) the 1st gear section of MG "T" series
gearboxes for several years for which we have been using a tougher steel
alloy for the replacement 1st gear. To date have experienced no failures,
even in boxes that have been raced extensively.
I would presume that the people doing the Healey laygears are using
similar  material.

M

On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 6:26 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Don't forget the laygear shafts; they wear at the ends due to the side
> loads.  Hopefully, the 'uprated' DWM shaft I just installed holds up.
>
> ps.  The only laygears I've seen advertised were 'rebuilt'--i.e. welded
> together--is there a source now for new laygears?
>
> bs
>
> On 3/4/2020 9:15 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> > One consideration regarding the use of 1st gear is the durability of
> > said gear. With a count of only 13 the straight cut teeth on the
> > laygear tend to wear very quickly when subjected to any sort of load.
> > Although laygears and 1st gears are available rebuilding a gearbox is
> > not an inexpensive exercise so starting off gently in 2nd gear is
> > HIGHLY recommended.
> >
> > M
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu Mar  5 23:25:19 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 17:25:19 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKmPBPvj7Gomo0azGNezLtA6hj8Qu5oQZQ8Qe_3VsMzoQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJzPM3_UeKVoSF=FcX344E0=srKt4WHXLKO9jr-gc9XwA@mail.gmail.com>
 <38a259ba-8779-a1be-822f-179afb7963a1@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKmPBPvj7Gomo0azGNezLtA6hj8Qu5oQZQ8Qe_3VsMzoQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <009401d5f380$072c12b0$15843810$@tpg.com.au>

Hello Mike

 

Can you please let us know how the magnet is fitted to the gearbox drain plug for a sideshift box.

 

They can be purchased complete from Denis Welsh for ?9.95 plus postage, but would be interested in doing my own.

 

Thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Thursday, 5 March 2020 7:51 PM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE

 

Quite correct Bob, 

However I believe the premature failure of the laygear needle bearings is caused by circulation of the microscopic chips of hardened steel that are shed by the 1st, reverse and laygear when people grind them together. 

To minimize this I always install a magnet on the gearbox drain plug to supplement the overdrive one. 

I have been restoring (replacing) the 1st gear section of MG "T" series gearboxes for several years for which we have been using a tougher steel alloy for the replacement 1st gear. To date have experienced no failures, even in boxes that have been raced extensively. 

I would presume that the people doing the Healey laygears are using similar  material.

 

M

 

On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 6:26 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

Don't forget the laygear shafts; they wear at the ends due to the side 
loads.  Hopefully, the 'uprated' DWM shaft I just installed holds up.

ps.  The only laygears I've seen advertised were 'rebuilt'--i.e. welded 
together--is there a source now for new laygears?

bs

On 3/4/2020 9:15 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> One consideration regarding the use of 1st gear is the durability of 
> said gear. With a count of only 13 the straight cut teeth on the 
> laygear tend to wear very quickly when subjected to any sort of load.
> Although laygears and 1st gears are available rebuilding a gearbox is 
> not an inexpensive exercise so starting off gently in 2nd gear is 
> HIGHLY recommended.
>
> M
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Mar  6 08:38:42 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 07:38:42 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE
In-Reply-To: <009401d5f380$072c12b0$15843810$@tpg.com.au>
References: <207713053.3071316.1583350499215.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <207713053.3071316.1583350499215@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7LJzPM3_UeKVoSF=FcX344E0=srKt4WHXLKO9jr-gc9XwA@mail.gmail.com>
 <38a259ba-8779-a1be-822f-179afb7963a1@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LKmPBPvj7Gomo0azGNezLtA6hj8Qu5oQZQ8Qe_3VsMzoQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <009401d5f380$072c12b0$15843810$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <75bb64e2-eceb-a11c-1e7f-d56b0340eba4@comcast.net>

I've only rebuilt my BJ8 gearbox a couple times, but haven't had any 
visible wear on the needle bearings.? Last rebuild, I replaced them 'on 
principle.'? I wonder if using synthetic gearbox oil helps preserve them?


On 3/5/2020 10:25 PM, Patrick & Caroline Quinn wrote:
>
> Hello Mike
>
> Can you please let us know how the magnet is fitted to the gearbox 
> drain plug for a sideshift box.
>
> They can be purchased complete from Denis Welsh for ?9.95 plus 
> postage, but would be interested in doing my own.
>
> Thanks
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Michael Salter
> *Sent:* Thursday, 5 March 2020 7:51 PM
> *To:* Bob Spidell
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Differential vs BN2 OVERDRIVE
>
> Quite correct Bob,
>
> However I believe the premature failure of the laygear needle bearings 
> is caused by circulation of the microscopic chips of hardened steel 
> that are shed by the 1st, reverse and laygear when people grind them 
> together.
>
> To minimize this I always install a magnet on the gearbox drain plug 
> to supplement the overdrive one.
>
> I have been restoring (replacing) the 1st gear section of MG "T" 
> series gearboxes for several years for which we have been using a 
> tougher steel alloy for the replacement 1st gear. To date have 
> experienced no failures, even in boxes that have been raced extensively.
>
> I would presume that the people doing the Healey laygears are using 
> similar? material.
>
> M
>
> On Thu, Mar 5, 2020 at 6:26 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Don't forget the laygear shafts; they wear at the ends due to the
>     side
>     loads.? Hopefully, the 'uprated' DWM shaft I just installed holds up.
>
>     ps.? The only laygears I've seen advertised were 'rebuilt'--i.e.
>     welded
>     together--is there a source now for new laygears?
>
>     bs
>
>     On 3/4/2020 9:15 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>     > One consideration regarding the use of 1st gear is the
>     durability of
>     > said gear. With a count of only 13 the straight cut teeth on the
>     > laygear tend to wear very quickly when subjected to any sort of
>     load.
>     > Although laygears and 1st gears are available rebuilding a
>     gearbox is
>     > not an inexpensive exercise so starting off gently in 2nd gear is
>     > HIGHLY recommended.
>     >
>     > M
>


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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Mar  6 15:20:14 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 11:20:14 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>

Fantasy Junction have a BJ8 for sale which, upon close examination of the
photos shows what appears to be a steering damper on the steering cross rod.
[image: image.png]
Has anyone else ever seen this type of device on a Healey?

M
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Fri Mar  6 16:17:52 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 10:17:52 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008401d5f40d$76c28770$64479650$@tpg.com.au>

Hello Mike

 

Never seen it on a Healey or Austin-Healey.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, 7 March 2020 9:20 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

Fantasy Junction have a BJ8 for sale which, upon close examination of the photos shows what appears to be a steering damper on the steering cross rod.

image.png

Has anyone else ever seen this type of device on a Healey?

 

M

 

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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Fri Mar  6 16:28:02 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 18:28:02 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <05e901d5f40e$e1c82f10$a5588d30$@gmail.com>

I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

Fantasy Junction have a BJ8 for sale which, upon close examination of the photos shows what appears to be a steering damper on the steering cross rod.



Has anyone else ever seen this type of device on a Healey?

 

M

 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Mar  6 16:57:38 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 15:57:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <05e901d5f40e$e1c82f10$a5588d30$@gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <05e901d5f40e$e1c82f10$a5588d30$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9a023c0f-50a8-d921-3aea-e2ccace0206b@comcast.net>

Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?


On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
>
> I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 
> 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t 
> imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener 
> [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but 
> sheesh!].
>
> ----------------
>
> All the best,
>
> Al Fuller
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of 
> *Michael Salter
> *Sent:* Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
>
> Fantasy Junction have a BJ8 for sale which, upon close examination of 
> the photos shows what appears to be a steering damper on the steering 
> cross rod.
>
> image.png
>
> Has anyone else ever seen this type of device on a Healey?
>
> M
>
>

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Mar  6 17:31:39 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 19:31:39 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <9a023c0f-50a8-d921-3aea-e2ccace0206b@comcast.net>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <05e901d5f40e$e1c82f10$a5588d30$@gmail.com>
 <9a023c0f-50a8-d921-3aea-e2ccace0206b@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.37.1583541106.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?

On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].
?
----------------
All the best,
?
Al Fuller
?
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
Fantasy Junction have a BJ8 for sale which, upon close examination of the photos shows what appears to be a steering damper on the steering cross rod.

Has anyone else ever seen this type of device on a Healey?
?
M
?



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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Mar  6 17:37:51 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 16:37:51 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <20200307003240.C6372A0B75@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <05e901d5f40e$e1c82f10$a5588d30$@gmail.com>
 <9a023c0f-50a8-d921-3aea-e2ccace0206b@comcast.net>
 <20200307003240.C6372A0B75@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2bb836e9-f362-2a02-eb50-fb4c835b265d@comcast.net>

You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?

On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
>
> Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the 
> 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.
>
> Perry
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Bob Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Sent: *Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
>
> Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?
>
> On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com 
> <mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>     I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ?
>     typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a
>     Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a
>     steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in
>     the steering, but sheesh!].
>
>     ----------------
>
>     All the best,
>
>     Al Fuller
>
>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael Salter
>     *Sent:* Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
>
>

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Mar  6 18:09:54 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 20:09:54 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <2bb836e9-f362-2a02-eb50-fb4c835b265d@comcast.net>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <05e901d5f40e$e1c82f10$a5588d30$@gmail.com>
 <9a023c0f-50a8-d921-3aea-e2ccace0206b@comcast.net>
 <20200307003240.C6372A0B75@autox.team.net>
 <2bb836e9-f362-2a02-eb50-fb4c835b265d@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.38.1583543398.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

I would say yes and a control valve assembly and other stuff. I could not find the BJ8 Michael mentioned on the Fantasy Junction website to look for additional info on the car in question. 
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:38 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?
On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.
Perry
?
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
?
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?


On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].
?
----------------
All the best,
?
Al Fuller
?
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?



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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Mar  6 19:19:35 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 02:19:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <20200307011009.7D2ACA0C14@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <05e901d5f40e$e1c82f10$a5588d30$@gmail.com>
 <9a023c0f-50a8-d921-3aea-e2ccace0206b@comcast.net>
 <20200307003240.C6372A0B75@autox.team.net>
 <2bb836e9-f362-2a02-eb50-fb4c835b265d@comcast.net>,
 <20200307011009.7D2ACA0C14@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DM5PR07MB3433DD112B7AA83FE2F8571BA5E00@DM5PR07MB3433.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Is this the car on BAT? Things like this might explain its low bidding price.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 1:09:54 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment


I would say yes and a control valve assembly and other stuff. I could not find the BJ8 Michael mentioned on the Fantasy Junction website to look for additional info on the car in question.

P



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10



From: Bob Spidell<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:38 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment



You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?

On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:

Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.

Perry



Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10



From: Bob Spidell<mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment



Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?



On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com<mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com> wrote:

I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].



----------------

All the best,



Al Fuller



From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net><mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment








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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Fri Mar  6 19:31:34 2020
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 21:31:34 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
References: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$.ref@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>

Is there any step by instructions on how to change to negative ground?

 

John Sims

www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/> 

Matawan, NJ

 

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Mar  6 19:32:22 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 21:32:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <DM5PR07MB3433DD112B7AA83FE2F8571BA5E00@DM5PR07MB3433.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <05e901d5f40e$e1c82f10$a5588d30$@gmail.com>
 <9a023c0f-50a8-d921-3aea-e2ccace0206b@comcast.net>
 <20200307003240.C6372A0B75@autox.team.net>
 <2bb836e9-f362-2a02-eb50-fb4c835b265d@comcast.net>,
 <20200307011009.7D2ACA0C14@autox.team.net>
 <DM5PR07MB3433DD112B7AA83FE2F8571BA5E00@DM5PR07MB3433.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.39.1583548348.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Yes 
The car was sold today on BAT.  The seller was Fantasy Junction. I think it brought a bit over 40K
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 9:20 PM
To: Perry via Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

Is this the car on BAT? Things like this might explain its low bidding price. 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 1:09:54 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment 
?
I would say yes and a control valve assembly and other stuff. I could not find the BJ8 Michael mentioned on the Fantasy Junction website to look for additional info on the car in question. 
P
?
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
?
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:38 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?
On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.
Perry
?
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
?
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?

On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].
?
----------------
All the best,
?
Al Fuller
?
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
?
?
?

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Mar  6 19:32:22 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 21:32:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <DM5PR07MB3433DD112B7AA83FE2F8571BA5E00@DM5PR07MB3433.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <05e901d5f40e$e1c82f10$a5588d30$@gmail.com>
 <9a023c0f-50a8-d921-3aea-e2ccace0206b@comcast.net>
 <20200307003240.C6372A0B75@autox.team.net>
 <2bb836e9-f362-2a02-eb50-fb4c835b265d@comcast.net>,
 <20200307011009.7D2ACA0C14@autox.team.net>
 <DM5PR07MB3433DD112B7AA83FE2F8571BA5E00@DM5PR07MB3433.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.40.1583548348.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Yes 
The car was sold today on BAT.  The seller was Fantasy Junction. I think it brought a bit over 40K
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 9:20 PM
To: Perry via Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

Is this the car on BAT? Things like this might explain its low bidding price. 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 1:09:54 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment 
?
I would say yes and a control valve assembly and other stuff. I could not find the BJ8 Michael mentioned on the Fantasy Junction website to look for additional info on the car in question. 
P
?
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
?
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:38 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?
On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.
Perry
?
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
?
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?

On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].
?
----------------
All the best,
?
Al Fuller
?
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
?
?
?

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From jpd64 at yahoo.com  Fri Mar  6 19:58:11 2020
From: jpd64 at yahoo.com (Jon Doherty)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 02:58:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <20200307023252.D66B2A08B0@autox.team.net>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <05e901d5f40e$e1c82f10$a5588d30$@gmail.com>
 <9a023c0f-50a8-d921-3aea-e2ccace0206b@comcast.net>
 <20200307003240.C6372A0B75@autox.team.net>
 <2bb836e9-f362-2a02-eb50-fb4c835b265d@comcast.net>
 <20200307011009.7D2ACA0C14@autox.team.net>
 <DM5PR07MB3433DD112B7AA83FE2F8571BA5E00@DM5PR07MB3433.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
 <20200307023252.D66B2A08B0@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1230548659.784331.1583549891765@mail.yahoo.com>

 Hi Gentlemen,
I'm extremely new to this email list so hope I sent the message correctly to all interested, but I own a 55 BN1 fitted with a steering box damper which I inherited from my grandfather.? I myself am a novice mechanic but it's not a stretch to say my grandfather was a master Healey technician.? He rebuilt his car from the ground up in the mid 50s after he bought it and competed in concourse competition as well as raced slalom/autocross competitively with the car in the late 50s and early 60s.? He added the steering box damper in 1957.? I was told it provided improved handling.? As you may know, slalom courses have extreme handling requirements.? I can only assume he knew what he was talking about in regard to the improved handling since he was the Southern California slalom champion for five years between 1957-62.? Hope this sheds some light on the subject.
Jon
    On Friday, March 6, 2020, 06:32:53 PM PST, Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 #yiv4354034472 #yiv4354034472 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4354034472 #yiv4354034472 p.yiv4354034472MsoNormal, #yiv4354034472 li.yiv4354034472MsoNormal, #yiv4354034472 div.yiv4354034472MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4354034472 a:link, #yiv4354034472 span.yiv4354034472MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4354034472 p.yiv4354034472xmsonormal, #yiv4354034472 li.yiv4354034472xmsonormal, #yiv4354034472 div.yiv4354034472xmsonormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4354034472 .yiv4354034472MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv4354034472 div.yiv4354034472WordSection1 {}#yiv4354034472 
Yes 

The car was sold today on BAT.? The seller was Fantasy Junction. I think it brought a bit over 40K

P

 ?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 ?

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 9:20 PM
To: Perry via Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 ?

Is this the car on BAT? Things like this might explain its low bidding price. 



From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 1:09:54 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment 

?

I would say yes and a control valve assembly and other stuff. I could not find the BJ8 Michael mentioned on the Fantasy Junction website to look for additional info on the car in question. 

P

?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

?

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:38 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

?

You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?

On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:


Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.

Perry

?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

?

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

?

Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?



On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:


I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].

?

----------------

All the best,

?

Al Fuller

?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

?

?



?

?

 ?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpd64 at yahoo.com

  
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Mar  6 20:23:41 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 19:23:41 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
In-Reply-To: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>
References: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <f1b1abdd-3d75-810f-a8ff-30d745a76404@comcast.net>

Here's one (but it appears you have to be a member of the AHCUSA):

https://healey.org/members-area/tech-archives-more/77-electrical/285-polarity-reversing.html

On 3/6/2020 6:31 PM, ahbn6--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> *Is there any step by instructions on how to change to negative ground?*
>
> **
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Mar  6 20:48:29 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Fri, 6 Mar 2020 22:48:29 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
In-Reply-To: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>
References: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <019501d5f433$44371e30$cca55a90$@rr.com>

See attachment.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ahbn6---
via Healeys
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 9:32 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity

 

Is there any step by instructions on how to change to negative ground?

 

John Sims

www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/> 

Matawan, NJ

 

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Fri Mar  6 21:32:08 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 07 Mar 2020 04:32:08 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
Message-ID: <a825f4639a06deda04afa8d8369d1644a46da2c3@webmail>

Jon- I'm pretty sure this is Mal Doherty's beautiful black 100. I knew
Mal and he attended a number of our Pacific Centre events in the early
days with his (also) beautiful wife. They were a wonderful couple and
yes, he was a great Healey innovator.

	If I'm correct, I met you, with the car, at the Monterey event in
2017 at the Pacific Grove downtown show. (I couldn't view the picture
you attached)

	I do remember that was the first Healey Bra I ever saw, and it was on
his car-custom made. Mal's car always won popular vote. Best Regards,
Hank Leach (healeyhelper.com)

	-----------------------------------------From: "Jon Doherty via
Healeys" 
To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Perry"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Friday March 6 2020 6:58:39PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 Hi Gentlemen,
I'm extremely new to this email list so hope I sent the message
correctly to all interested, but I own a 55 BN1 fitted with a steering
box damper which I inherited from my grandfather. I myself am a novice
mechanic but it's not a stretch to say my grandfather was a master
Healey technician. He rebuilt his car from the ground up in the mid
50s after he bought it and competed in concourse competition as well
as raced slalom/autocross competitively with the car in the late 50s
and early 60s. He added the steering box damper in 1957. I was told it
provided improved handling. As you may know, slalom courses have
extreme handling requirements. I can only assume he knew what he was
talking about in regard to the improved handling since he was the
Southern California slalom champion for five years between 1957-62.
Hope this sheds some light on the subject.
Jon
    On Friday, March 6, 2020, 06:32:53 PM PST, Perry via Healeys 
wrote:  

	Yes 

	The car was sold today on BAT. The seller was Fantasy Junction. I
think it brought a bit over 40K

	P

	Sent from Mail [1] for Windows 10

	FROM: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE [2]
SENT: Friday, March 6, 2020 9:20 PM
TO: Perry via Healeys [3]
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

	Is this the car on BAT? Things like this might explain its low
bidding price. 

	FROM: Healeys  on behalf of Perry via Healeys 
SENT: Saturday, March 7, 2020 1:09:54 AM
TO: healeys at autox.team.net 
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment 

	I would say yes and a control valve assembly and other stuff. I could
not find the BJ8 Michael mentioned on the Fantasy Junction website to
look for additional info on the car in question. 

	P

	Sent from Mail [4] for Windows 10

	FROM: Bob Spidell [5]
SENT: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:38 PM
TO: healeys at autox.team.net [6]
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

	You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?

	On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:

	Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the
1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.

	Perry

	Sent from Mail [7] for Windows 10

	FROM: Bob Spidell [8]
SENT: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
TO: healeys at autox.team.net [9]
SUBJECT: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

	Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?

	On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com [10] wrote:

	I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ?
typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a
Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a
steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the
steering, but sheesh!].

	----------------

	All the best,

	Al Fuller

	FROM: Healeys  [11] ON BEHALF OF Michael Salter
SENT: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
TO: healeys at autox.team.net [12]
SUBJECT: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

	 _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net  [13]http://www.team.net/donate.html [14]
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive:  [15]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [16] 
[17]http://autox.team.net/archive [18]

Healeys at autox.team.net [19]
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Unsubscribe/Manage: 
[22]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jpd64 at yahoo.com [23]

  

Links:
------
[1] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986
[2] mailto:ynotink at msn.com
[3] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net
[4] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986
[5] mailto:bspidell at comcast.net
[6] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net
[7] https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986
[8] mailto:bspidell at comcast.net
[9] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net
[10] mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com
[11] mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[12] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net
[13] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[14] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[15] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
[16] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[17] http://autox.team.net/archive
[18] http://autox.team.net/archive
[19] mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net
[20] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
[21] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Mar  7 01:10:33 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 09:10:33 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <52e0d8a0-decb-2afd-02d9-f63bb0ccb3ab@chello.nl>

Extra steering dampers are fairly common on cars with a similar set up, 
e.g. Land Rover, VW. Some standard, others as an accessory. I fitted one 
to my Land Rover SIII.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 6-3-2020 om 23:20 schreef Michael Salter:
> Fantasy Junction have a BJ8 for sale which, upon close examination of 
> the photos shows what appears to be a steering damper on the steering 
> cross rod.
> image.png
> Has anyone else ever seen this type of device on a Healey?
>
> M
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Mar  7 01:18:15 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 09:18:15 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
In-Reply-To: <019501d5f433$44371e30$cca55a90$@rr.com>
References: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>
 <019501d5f433$44371e30$cca55a90$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <188c59bd-1744-e129-9367-5e355be092aa@chello.nl>

In addition to the article:

-Change polarity to the radio if fitted. Some older radio's have a 
polarity switch.

-Check if clock is polarity sensitive. Some older Smiths/Jaeger clocks 
are dual polarity. Later ones are polarity sentive.

-Change over the wires from the Amp gauge.


Kees Oudesluijs



Op 7-3-2020 om 04:48 schreef Max Byers:
>
> See attachment.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC USA
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *ahbn6--- via Healeys
> *Sent:* Friday, March 6, 2020 9:32 PM
> *To:* Healey List
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Polarity
>
> *Is there any step by instructions on how to change to negative ground?*
>
> **
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From allan-peters at sky.com  Sat Mar  7 01:42:59 2020
From: allan-peters at sky.com (allan-peters at sky.com)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 08:42:59 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay bn3 that wasn"t
References: <600066236.8918580.1583570579268.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <600066236.8918580.1583570579268@mail.yahoo.com>

?Did the Leaves qualify it as an Exhibit at the Royal Academy ? or is it still Hidden?
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Mar  7 01:50:40 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 19:50:40 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay bn3 that wasn"t
In-Reply-To: <600066236.8918580.1583570579268@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <600066236.8918580.1583570579268.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <600066236.8918580.1583570579268@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <018e01d5f45d$7bddb180$73991480$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Now that is confusing.

 

The real BN3 will be returning to its home on Tuesday after being in safe keeping from bushfires since before Christmas.

 

Once here it will then receive its first wash since its engine blew up in April 2011.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of allan-peters--- via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, 7 March 2020 7:43 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Ebay bn3 that wasn"t

 

 Did the Leaves qualify it as an Exhibit at the Royal Academy ? or is it still Hidden?

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Mar  7 06:49:41 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 06:49:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
In-Reply-To: <188c59bd-1744-e129-9367-5e355be092aa@chello.nl>
References: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>
 <019501d5f433$44371e30$cca55a90$@rr.com>
 <188c59bd-1744-e129-9367-5e355be092aa@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <ecfbaf4c-a87b-5b09-f6c0-d244771143e9@porterscustom.com>

SU fuel pumps are generally polarity sensitive...


On 3/7/2020 1:18 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>
> In addition to the article:
>
> -Change polarity to the radio if fitted. Some older radio's have a 
> polarity switch.
>
> -Check if clock is polarity sensitive. Some older Smiths/Jaeger clocks 
> are dual polarity. Later ones are polarity sentive.
>
> -Change over the wires from the Amp gauge.
>
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 7-3-2020 om 04:48 schreef Max Byers:
>>
>> See attachment.
>>
>> Steve Byers
>>
>> HBJ8L/36666
>>
>> BJ8 Registry
>>
>> AHCA Delegate at Large
>>
>> Havelock, NC USA
>>
>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
>> *ahbn6--- via Healeys
>> *Sent:* Friday, March 6, 2020 9:32 PM
>> *To:* Healey List
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Polarity
>>
>> *Is there any step by instructions on how to change to negative ground?*
>>
>> **
>>
>> *John Sims*
>>
>> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>>
>> *Matawan, NJ*
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Mar  7 07:00:40 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 15:00:40 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
In-Reply-To: <ecfbaf4c-a87b-5b09-f6c0-d244771143e9@porterscustom.com>
References: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>
 <019501d5f433$44371e30$cca55a90$@rr.com>
 <188c59bd-1744-e129-9367-5e355be092aa@chello.nl>
 <ecfbaf4c-a87b-5b09-f6c0-d244771143e9@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <880ab704-f725-84f2-d5cc-1ec29e7c0699@chello.nl>

The original pumps had a capacitor over the points which made them dual 
polarity. At a later stage SU changed the capacitor for a diode which 
made the pump polarity sensitive. If you remove the diode and fit a 
transil over the points the pump becomes dual polarity.

The very early pumps with the single points may not have had any 
capacitor or diode fitted, which would lead to spark erosion of the 
points. These were also dual polarity.

The later electronic/solid state versions are all polarity sensitive.

Kees Oudesluijs



Op 7-3-2020 om 14:49 schreef David P:
>
> SU fuel pumps are generally polarity sensitive...
>
>
> On 3/7/2020 1:18 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>>
>> In addition to the article:
>>
>> -Change polarity to the radio if fitted. Some older radio's have a 
>> polarity switch.
>>
>> -Check if clock is polarity sensitive. Some older Smiths/Jaeger 
>> clocks are dual polarity. Later ones are polarity sentive.
>>
>> -Change over the wires from the Amp gauge.
>>
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>
>> Op 7-3-2020 om 04:48 schreef Max Byers:
>>>
>>> See attachment.
>>>
>>> Steve Byers
>>>
>>> HBJ8L/36666
>>>
>>> BJ8 Registry
>>>
>>> AHCA Delegate at Large
>>>
>>> Havelock, NC? USA
>>>
>>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
>>> *ahbn6--- via Healeys
>>> *Sent:* Friday, March 6, 2020 9:32 PM
>>> *To:* Healey List
>>> *Subject:* [Healeys] Polarity
>>>
>>> *Is there any step by instructions on how to change to negative ground?*
>>>
>>> **
>>>
>>> *John Sims*
>>>
>>> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>>>
>>> *Matawan, NJ*
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>>
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sat Mar  7 09:24:43 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 08:24:43 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqPVbQODwomm88ZopNmWD6KujnSdp=_VgnVEEMtTeaY4jQ@mail.gmail.com>

I've been playing with Austin Healeys since I got my first one in 1977 ( a
'58 100-6).  I've owned and driven many more.  I also raced a BN7 3000 for
over 30 years.  In my experience I've never felt the need for a steering
damper. So, I'm confused.  What situation would necessitate the addition of
a damper?  And, I should also add that I took first place in the
slalom/autocross at the All British Field Meet in my '60 BT7 this last
September at the Portland International Raceway. The steering worked just
fine.

On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 2:28 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Fantasy Junction have a BJ8 for sale which, upon close examination of the
> photos shows what appears to be a steering damper on the steering cross rod.
> [image: image.png]
> Has anyone else ever seen this type of device on a Healey?
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat Mar  7 09:29:33 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 08:29:33 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
In-Reply-To: <880ab704-f725-84f2-d5cc-1ec29e7c0699@chello.nl>
References: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>
 <019501d5f433$44371e30$cca55a90$@rr.com>
 <188c59bd-1744-e129-9367-5e355be092aa@chello.nl>
 <ecfbaf4c-a87b-5b09-f6c0-d244771143e9@porterscustom.com>
 <880ab704-f725-84f2-d5cc-1ec29e7c0699@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89ErWxwmfy4uHYRk+9G62OC-_3tXpTYF27m03KFrKWePg@mail.gmail.com>

What about tachometers?

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Sat, Mar 7, 2020, 6:00 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:

> The original pumps had a capacitor over the points which made them dual
> polarity. At a later stage SU changed the capacitor for a diode which made
> the pump polarity sensitive. If you remove the diode and fit a transil over
> the points the pump becomes dual polarity.
>
> The very early pumps with the single points may not have had any capacitor
> or diode fitted, which would lead to spark erosion of the points. These
> were also dual polarity.
>
> The later electronic/solid state versions are all polarity sensitive.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 7-3-2020 om 14:49 schreef David P:
>
> SU fuel pumps are generally polarity sensitive...
>
>
> On 3/7/2020 1:18 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>
> In addition to the article:
>
> -Change polarity to the radio if fitted. Some older radio's have a
> polarity switch.
>
> -Check if clock is polarity sensitive. Some older Smiths/Jaeger clocks are
> dual polarity. Later ones are polarity sentive.
>
> -Change over the wires from the Amp gauge.
>
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 7-3-2020 om 04:48 schreef Max Byers:
>
> See attachment.
>
>
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC  USA
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *ahbn6--- via Healeys
> *Sent:* Friday, March 6, 2020 9:32 PM
> *To:* Healey List
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Polarity
>
>
>
> *Is there any step by instructions on how to change to negative ground?*
>
>
>
> *John Sims*
>
> *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>
> *Matawan, NJ*
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
> --
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Mar  7 10:18:50 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 12:18:50 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqPVbQODwomm88ZopNmWD6KujnSdp=_VgnVEEMtTeaY4jQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKO-YM-auPQH3D9JdaX=af9DL=OP2jFqV3zst0C6KC8jg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqPVbQODwomm88ZopNmWD6KujnSdp=_VgnVEEMtTeaY4jQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.41.1583601539.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

I have sent a message to Fantasy  Junction to see if they have any further info on this unusual addition to the BJ8 in question. If they reply I?ll send to the list.
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: richard mayor
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 11:32 AM
To: Michael Salter
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

I've been playing with Austin Healeys since I got my first one in 1977 ( a '58 100-6).? I've owned and driven many more.? I also raced a BN7 3000 for over 30 years.? In my experience I've never felt the need for a steering damper. So, I'm confused.? What situation would necessitate the addition of a damper?? And, I should also add that I took first place in the slalom/autocross at the All British Field Meet in my '60 BT7 this last September at the Portland International Raceway. The steering worked just fine.? 

On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 2:28 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
Fantasy Junction have a BJ8 for sale which, upon close examination of the photos shows what appears to be a steering damper on the steering cross rod.

Has anyone else ever seen this type of device on a Healey?

M

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Mar  7 10:21:21 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 09:21:21 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89ErWxwmfy4uHYRk+9G62OC-_3tXpTYF27m03KFrKWePg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>
 <019501d5f433$44371e30$cca55a90$@rr.com>
 <188c59bd-1744-e129-9367-5e355be092aa@chello.nl>
 <ecfbaf4c-a87b-5b09-f6c0-d244771143e9@porterscustom.com>
 <880ab704-f725-84f2-d5cc-1ec29e7c0699@chello.nl>
 <CABXhz89ErWxwmfy4uHYRk+9G62OC-_3tXpTYF27m03KFrKWePg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B66E86E50EC04A64AE381D6AE8998D9F@AllInOne>

Here is another article on reversing polarity for BMC cars.
 
Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of i erbs
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2020 8:30 AM
To: Kees Oudesluijs
Cc: Ahealey help
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Polarity


What about tachometers? 


Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Sat, Mar 7, 2020, 6:00 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:


The original pumps had a capacitor over the points which made them dual
polarity. At a later stage SU changed the capacitor for a diode which made
the pump polarity sensitive. If you remove the diode and fit a transil over
the points the pump becomes dual polarity.

The very early pumps with the single points may not have had any capacitor
or diode fitted, which would lead to spark erosion of the points. These were
also dual polarity.


The later electronic/solid state versions are all polarity sensitive.

Kees Oudesluijs







Op 7-3-2020 om 14:49 schreef David P:


SU fuel pumps are generally polarity sensitive...




On 3/7/2020 1:18 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:


In addition to the article:

-Change polarity to the radio if fitted. Some older radio's have a polarity
switch.

-Check if clock is polarity sensitive. Some older Smiths/Jaeger clocks are
dual polarity. Later ones are polarity sentive.

-Change over the wires from the Amp gauge.




Kees Oudesluijs







Op 7-3-2020 om 04:48 schreef Max Byers:


See attachment.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ahbn6---
via Healeys
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 9:32 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity

 

Is there any step by instructions on how to change to negative ground?

 

John Sims

www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/> 

Matawan, NJ

 


 
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75



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-- 

Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My
World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

 
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation  $12.75



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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Mar  7 10:29:38 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 09:29:38 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89ErWxwmfy4uHYRk+9G62OC-_3tXpTYF27m03KFrKWePg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>
 <019501d5f433$44371e30$cca55a90$@rr.com>
 <188c59bd-1744-e129-9367-5e355be092aa@chello.nl>
 <ecfbaf4c-a87b-5b09-f6c0-d244771143e9@porterscustom.com>
 <880ab704-f725-84f2-d5cc-1ec29e7c0699@chello.nl>
 <CABXhz89ErWxwmfy4uHYRk+9G62OC-_3tXpTYF27m03KFrKWePg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9b8ff307-0add-51e4-b68a-cc7c768b94bd@comcast.net>

The article on healey.org documents tells how to convert an electronic 
tach.? For the mechanical ones, you just have to reverse the cable.

bs



On 3/7/2020 8:29 AM, i erbs wrote:
> What about tachometers?
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> 1959 Austin Healey BN4
> 1967 MGB
>
> On Sat, Mar 7, 2020, 6:00 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl 
> <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
>
>     The original pumps had a capacitor over the points which made them
>     dual polarity. At a later stage SU changed the capacitor for a
>     diode which made the pump polarity sensitive. If you remove the
>     diode and fit a transil over the points the pump becomes dual
>     polarity.
>
>     The very early pumps with the single points may not have had any
>     capacitor or diode fitted, which would lead to spark erosion of
>     the points. These were also dual polarity.
>
>     The later electronic/solid state versions are all polarity sensitive.
>
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>     Op 7-3-2020 om 14:49 schreef David P:
>>
>>     SU fuel pumps are generally polarity sensitive...
>>
>>
>>     On 3/7/2020 1:18 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>>>
>>>     In addition to the article:
>>>
>>>     -Change polarity to the radio if fitted. Some older radio's have
>>>     a polarity switch.
>>>
>>>     -Check if clock is polarity sensitive. Some older Smiths/Jaeger
>>>     clocks are dual polarity. Later ones are polarity sentive.
>>>
>>>     -Change over the wires from the Amp gauge.
>>>
>>>
>>>     Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>     Op 7-3-2020 om 04:48 schreef Max Byers:
>>>>
>>>>     See attachment.
>>>>
>>>>     Steve Byers
>>>>
>>>>     HBJ8L/36666
>>>>
>>>>     BJ8 Registry
>>>>
>>>>     AHCA Delegate at Large
>>>>
>>>>     Havelock, NC? USA
>>>>
>>>>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On
>>>>     Behalf Of *ahbn6--- via Healeys
>>>>     *Sent:* Friday, March 6, 2020 9:32 PM
>>>>     *To:* Healey List
>>>>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Polarity
>>>>
>>>>     *Is there any step by instructions on how to change to negative
>>>>     ground?*
>>>>
>>>>     **
>>>>
>>>>     *John Sims*
>>>>
>>>>     *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>>>>
>>>>     *Matawan, NJ*
>>>>
>>>>

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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Sat Mar  7 10:37:05 2020
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 09:37:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <20200307011020.B0D30A0C0C@autox.team.net>
References: <20200307011020.B0D30A0C0C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <61699FE6-72AE-4D06-80CE-F6675FF87B3C@gmail.com>

Might just be a good upgrade to help stop that Healey scuttle shake. 

David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 6, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I would say yes and a control valve assembly and other stuff. I could not find the BJ8 Michael mentioned on the Fantasy Junction website to look for additional info on the car in question.
> P
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Bob Spidell
> Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:38 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
>  
> You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?
> 
> On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
> Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.
> Perry
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Bob Spidell
> Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
>  
> Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?
> 
> 
> 
> On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
> I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].
>  
> ----------------
> All the best,
>  
> Al Fuller
>  
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
> Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
>  
>  
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
> 
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sat Mar  7 10:39:54 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 07 Mar 2020 17:39:54 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
Message-ID: <7928e1ed9ea19b606514d0ecec2519ff0e479ecf@webmail>

Good one , Bob! However, my tach cable is different on each end. I
think stock Positive ground works well. I floated my Smiths clock and
it has been that way for years. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Bob Spidell" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday March 7 2020 9:30:01AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Polarity

  The article on healey.org documents tells how to convert an
electronic tach. For the mechanical ones, you just have to reverse the
cable.

 bs

 On 3/7/2020 8:29 AM, i erbs wrote:
    What about tachometers? 

 Ira Erbs
 Portland,OR
 1959 Austin Healey BN4
 1967 MGB  
  On Sat, Mar 7, 2020, 6:00 AM Kees Oudesluijs  wrote:

	The original pumps had a capacitor over the points which made them
dual polarity. At a later stage SU changed the capacitor for a diode
which made the pump polarity sensitive. If you remove the diode and
fit a transil over the points the pump becomes dual polarity. 

	The very early pumps with the single points may not have had any
capacitor or diode fitted, which would lead to spark erosion of the
points. These were also dual polarity.

	The later electronic/solid state versions are all polarity sensitive.


	Kees Oudesluijs 

  Op 7-3-2020 om 14:49 schreef David P:

	SU fuel pumps are generally polarity sensitive... 

  On 3/7/2020 1:18 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:

	In addition to the article: 

	-Change polarity to the radio if fitted. Some older radio's have a
polarity switch. 

	-Check if clock is polarity sensitive. Some older Smiths/Jaeger
clocks are dual polarity. Later ones are polarity sentive. 

	-Change over the wires from the Amp gauge. 

	Kees Oudesluijs 

  Op 7-3-2020 om 04:48 schreef Max Byers:

	See attachment. 

	Steve Byers 

	HBJ8L/36666 

	BJ8 Registry 

	AHCA Delegate at Large 

	Havelock, NC USA 

	FROM: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net [2]] ON BEHALF
OF ahbn6--- via Healeys
 SENT: Friday, March 6, 2020 9:32 PM
 TO: Healey List
 SUBJECT: [Healeys] Polarity   

	IS THERE ANY STEP BY INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO CHANGE TO NEGATIVE
GROUND? 

	JOHN SIMS 

	WWW.HEALEY6.COM [3] 

	MATAWAN, NJ 

 

Links:
------
[1] mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl
[2] mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
[3] http://mail2.spectrum.net/HTTP://WWW.HEALEY6.COM/

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Mar  7 10:58:23 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 12:58:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
In-Reply-To: <7928e1ed9ea19b606514d0ecec2519ff0e479ecf@webmail>
References: <7928e1ed9ea19b606514d0ecec2519ff0e479ecf@webmail>
Message-ID: <mailman.42.1583603906.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

If you did ?reverse the cable?  would that not have a ?negative? effect!
Its Saturday?everybody smile!
Pery

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: gradea1 at charter.net
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 12:40 PM
To: 'Bob Spidell'
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Polarity

Good one , Bob! However, my tach cable is different on each end. I think stock Positive ground works well.? I floated my Smiths clock and it has been that way for years. Hank
-----------------------------------------
From: "Bob Spidell" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday March 7 2020 9:30:01AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Polarity

The article on healey.org documents tells how to convert an electronic tach.? For the mechanical ones, you just have to reverse the cable.

bs






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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Mar  7 10:58:23 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 12:58:23 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
In-Reply-To: <7928e1ed9ea19b606514d0ecec2519ff0e479ecf@webmail>
References: <7928e1ed9ea19b606514d0ecec2519ff0e479ecf@webmail>
Message-ID: <mailman.43.1583603906.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

If you did ?reverse the cable?  would that not have a ?negative? effect!
Its Saturday?everybody smile!
Pery

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: gradea1 at charter.net
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 12:40 PM
To: 'Bob Spidell'
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Polarity

Good one , Bob! However, my tach cable is different on each end. I think stock Positive ground works well.? I floated my Smiths clock and it has been that way for years. Hank
-----------------------------------------
From: "Bob Spidell" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday March 7 2020 9:30:01AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Polarity

The article on healey.org documents tells how to convert an electronic tach.? For the mechanical ones, you just have to reverse the cable.

bs






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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Sat Mar  7 11:06:29 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 19:06:29 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89ErWxwmfy4uHYRk+9G62OC-_3tXpTYF27m03KFrKWePg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>
 <019501d5f433$44371e30$cca55a90$@rr.com>
 <188c59bd-1744-e129-9367-5e355be092aa@chello.nl>
 <ecfbaf4c-a87b-5b09-f6c0-d244771143e9@porterscustom.com>
 <880ab704-f725-84f2-d5cc-1ec29e7c0699@chello.nl>
 <CABXhz89ErWxwmfy4uHYRk+9G62OC-_3tXpTYF27m03KFrKWePg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <70b48f33-914f-2bb9-c43e-8bf76027c2f6@chello.nl>

Yes, electronic ones are polarity sensitive but easily converted. Plenty 
about that on the internet.

Kees Oudesluijs

Op 7-3-2020 om 17:29 schreef i erbs:
> What about tachometers?
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> 1959 Austin Healey BN4
> 1967 MGB
>
> On Sat, Mar 7, 2020, 6:00 AM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl 
> <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>> wrote:
>
>     The original pumps had a capacitor over the points which made them
>     dual polarity. At a later stage SU changed the capacitor for a
>     diode which made the pump polarity sensitive. If you remove the
>     diode and fit a transil over the points the pump becomes dual
>     polarity.
>
>     The very early pumps with the single points may not have had any
>     capacitor or diode fitted, which would lead to spark erosion of
>     the points. These were also dual polarity.
>
>     The later electronic/solid state versions are all polarity sensitive.
>
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>     Op 7-3-2020 om 14:49 schreef David P:
>>
>>     SU fuel pumps are generally polarity sensitive...
>>
>>
>>     On 3/7/2020 1:18 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
>>>
>>>     In addition to the article:
>>>
>>>     -Change polarity to the radio if fitted. Some older radio's have
>>>     a polarity switch.
>>>
>>>     -Check if clock is polarity sensitive. Some older Smiths/Jaeger
>>>     clocks are dual polarity. Later ones are polarity sentive.
>>>
>>>     -Change over the wires from the Amp gauge.
>>>
>>>
>>>     Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>     Op 7-3-2020 om 04:48 schreef Max Byers:
>>>>
>>>>     See attachment.
>>>>
>>>>     Steve Byers
>>>>
>>>>     HBJ8L/36666
>>>>
>>>>     BJ8 Registry
>>>>
>>>>     AHCA Delegate at Large
>>>>
>>>>     Havelock, NC? USA
>>>>
>>>>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On
>>>>     Behalf Of *ahbn6--- via Healeys
>>>>     *Sent:* Friday, March 6, 2020 9:32 PM
>>>>     *To:* Healey List
>>>>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Polarity
>>>>
>>>>     *Is there any step by instructions on how to change to negative
>>>>     ground?*
>>>>
>>>>     **
>>>>
>>>>     *John Sims*
>>>>
>>>>     *www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/>*
>>>>
>>>>     *Matawan, NJ*
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>     _______________________________________________
>>>>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>>     Healeys at autox.team.net  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>>>
>>>
>>>     _______________________________________________
>>>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>>     Healeys at autox.team.net  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>>>
>>     -- 
>>     Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/  <http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/>
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
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From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Sat Mar  7 12:57:52 2020
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (Bob Brown)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 19:57:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Part needed
References: <734079662.940785.1583611072020.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <734079662.940785.1583611072020@mail.yahoo.com>

We are in the process of getting my son's 67 MK IV Sprite on the road after a long "rest," one of the missing pieces is the Link, Accelerator Petal (Moss?260-345) Not Available. Also not available from Vicky B.? AH Spares appears to have them but only getting this small part from the UK doesn't seem practical unl;ess that is the last option.?
Does anyone have a Accelerator Petal Link they can part with here in North America?
BobAN5/BT7
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat Mar  7 14:19:27 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 13:19:27 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Part needed
In-Reply-To: <734079662.940785.1583611072020@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <734079662.940785.1583611072020.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <734079662.940785.1583611072020@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88wbMcjsA6jbSv8-NgKX=qH_k8+86Lbdgca7J8o6yBBfA@mail.gmail.com>

Try  ff9ba9398c71308685bbf3e889691707 at sale.craigslist.org
<ff9ba9398c71308685bbf3e889691707 at sale.craigslist.org?subject=Austin%20Healey%20Bugeye%20Sprite%20Bonnet%20%2F%20Hood&body=%0A%0Ahttps%3A%2F%2Fportland.craigslist.org%2Fmlt%2Fpts%2Fd%2Fwarren-austin-healey-bugeye-sprite%2F7085257105.html%0A>

he is a craigslist seller who I have dealt with many times. he is just
outside of Portland,OR. he has lots of dismantled car parts
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Sat, Mar 7, 2020 at 11:58 AM Bob Brown via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> We are in the process of getting my son's 67 MK IV Sprite on the road
> after a long "rest," one of the missing pieces is the Link, Accelerator
> Petal (Moss 260-345) Not Available. Also not available from Vicky B.  AH
> Spares appears to have them but only getting this small part from the UK
> doesn't seem practical unl;ess that is the last option.
>
> Does anyone have a Accelerator Petal Link they can part with here in North
> America?
>
> Bob
> AN5/BT7
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat Mar  7 15:02:39 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 14:02:39 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey project for sale in Seattle area NFI
Message-ID: <CABXhz89Q28mOBkM9zsgNfoRvcoSro96mNTg0AfV7vHMcqNnGfg@mail.gmail.com>

Looks to me  like a chevy engine  $16K USD
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/1960-austin-healey-3000-bt7/7087409505.html

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Sat Mar  7 15:09:21 2020
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (Max Byers)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 17:09:21 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <61699FE6-72AE-4D06-80CE-F6675FF87B3C@gmail.com>
References: <20200307011020.B0D30A0C0C@autox.team.net>
 <61699FE6-72AE-4D06-80CE-F6675FF87B3C@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801d5f4cd$0e8c81e0$2ba585a0$@rr.com>

I contacted the previous owner of 42351 who owned it from 1990 to 2014.  He had no knowledge of the gizmo on the steering rod and said he did not recall his mechanic either installing it or mentioning it.

I called the telephone number I have recorded for the owner prior to that (1986 ? 1990) but got an answering machine with a message in Spanish.  I left a message about the reason for the car and invited a return response.  If I get one, I?ll post it to the list.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large 

Havelock, NC  

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 12:37 PM
To: Perry
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

Might just be a good upgrade to help stop that Healey scuttle shake. 

David Nock

 

Sent from my iPhone





On Mar 6, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

?

I would say yes and a control valve assembly and other stuff. I could not find the BJ8 Michael mentioned on the Fantasy Junction website to look for additional info on the car in question. 

P

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: Bob <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>  Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:38 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?

On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:

Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.

Perry

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: Bob <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>  Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?





On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:

I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

From: Healeys  <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

 

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From greylinn at ozemail.com.au  Sat Mar  7 15:26:23 2020
From: greylinn at ozemail.com.au (Peter & Veronica)
Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2020 08:26:23 +1000
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <000801d5f4cd$0e8c81e0$2ba585a0$@rr.com>
References: <20200307011020.B0D30A0C0C@autox.team.net>
 <61699FE6-72AE-4D06-80CE-F6675FF87B3C@gmail.com>
 <000801d5f4cd$0e8c81e0$2ba585a0$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <35b50f$86rc0u@icp-osb-irony-out2.iinet.net.au>

...anyone who?s had a Series Landrover would know all about those ? basically a transverse shock absorber to stop steering kick-back. I?ve had several of those. Interesting though that my special bodied Healey 100 (the Ward Special) also had one fitted ? presumably from its days as an Ausca-bodied race car.

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Max Byers
Sent: Sunday, 8 March 2020 8:09 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

I contacted the previous owner of 42351 who owned it from 1990 to 2014.? He had no knowledge of the gizmo on the steering rod and said he did not recall his mechanic either installing it or mentioning it.
I called the telephone number I have recorded for the owner prior to that (1986 ? 1990) but got an answering machine with a message in Spanish.? I left a message about the reason for the car and invited a return response.? If I get one, I?ll post it to the list.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large 
Havelock, NC? 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 12:37 PM
To: Perry
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

Might just be a good upgrade to help stop that Healey scuttle shake.?
David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 6, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
?
I would say yes and a control valve assembly and other stuff. I could not find the BJ8 Michael mentioned on the Fantasy Junction website to look for additional info on the car in question. 
P
?
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
?
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:38 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?
On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.
Perry
?
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
?
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?


On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].
?
----------------
All the best,
?
Al Fuller
?
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
?
?
?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation ?$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Mar  7 16:30:26 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 18:30:26 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <35b50f$86rc0u@icp-osb-irony-out2.iinet.net.au>
References: <20200307011020.B0D30A0C0C@autox.team.net>
 <61699FE6-72AE-4D06-80CE-F6675FF87B3C@gmail.com>
 <000801d5f4cd$0e8c81e0$2ba585a0$@rr.com>
 <35b50f$86rc0u@icp-osb-irony-out2.iinet.net.au>
Message-ID: <mailman.44.1583623831.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Steering kickback is mainly due to one or both of the front tires impacting with an obstacle. Type of suspension and/or steering design has a lot to do with the result (kickback) of the steering wheel. As Perter mentioned vehicles that are used ?off road? or on rough roads will experience the sore fingers that happen when the right front tire bangs that 2 foot boulder on the road shoulder and the steering wheel suddenly breaks your death grip you have on it. 
Assuming that the device is a steering damper we could surmise that the BJ8 of this thread may have had a hard life.  Hard but perhaps fun!
P

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Peter & Veronica
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 5:26 PM
To: Max Byers; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

...anyone who?s had a Series Landrover would know all about those ? basically a transverse shock absorber to stop steering kick-back. I?ve had several of those. Interesting though that my special bodied Healey 100 (the Ward Special) also had one fitted ? presumably from its days as an Ausca-bodied race car.

Cheers

Peter Linn
Brisbane

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Max Byers
Sent: Sunday, 8 March 2020 8:09 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

I contacted the previous owner of 42351 who owned it from 1990 to 2014.? He had no knowledge of the gizmo on the steering rod and said he did not recall his mechanic either installing it or mentioning it.
I called the telephone number I have recorded for the owner prior to that (1986 ? 1990) but got an answering machine with a message in Spanish.? I left a message about the reason for the car and invited a return response.? If I get one, I?ll post it to the list.

Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large 
Havelock, NC? 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Nock
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 12:37 PM
To: Perry
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

Might just be a good upgrade to help stop that Healey scuttle shake.?
David Nock

Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 6, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
?
I would say yes and a control valve assembly and other stuff. I could not find the BJ8 Michael mentioned on the Fantasy Junction website to look for additional info on the car in question. 
P
?
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
?
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:38 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?
On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.
Perry
?
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
?
From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?

On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com wrote:
I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].
?
----------------
All the best,
?
Al Fuller
?
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
?
?
?
?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation ?$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From david at dleong.org  Sat Mar  7 16:41:20 2020
From: david at dleong.org (David Leong)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 23:41:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <20200307233100.EC968A0B7B@autox.team.net>
References: <20200307011020.B0D30A0C0C@autox.team.net>
 <61699FE6-72AE-4D06-80CE-F6675FF87B3C@gmail.com>
 <000801d5f4cd$0e8c81e0$2ba585a0$@rr.com>
 <35b50f$86rc0u@icp-osb-irony-out2.iinet.net.au>
 <20200307233100.EC968A0B7B@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <78f91f6fff4b48149e93c8c81cd05b9e@DLEONG-EXCH.dleong.pro>

Kickback can also be caused by excessive bump steer, which can also be bad

Racers know not to wrap their thumbs around the wheel, and let go just before impact

Dave

From: Perry via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2020 3:30 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment


Steering kickback is mainly due to one or both of the front tires impacting with an obstacle. Type of suspension and/or steering design has a lot to do with the result (kickback) of the steering wheel. As Perter mentioned vehicles that are used ?off road? or on rough roads will experience the sore fingers that happen when the right front tire bangs that 2 foot boulder on the road shoulder and the steering wheel suddenly breaks your death grip you have on it.
Assuming that the device is a steering damper we could surmise that the BJ8 of this thread may have had a hard life.  Hard but perhaps fun!
P

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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Sat Mar  7 16:57:25 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2020 10:57:25 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <20200307233049.AD71EA0BEA@autox.team.net>
References: <20200307011020.B0D30A0C0C@autox.team.net>
 <61699FE6-72AE-4D06-80CE-F6675FF87B3C@gmail.com>
 <000801d5f4cd$0e8c81e0$2ba585a0$@rr.com>
 <35b50f$86rc0u@icp-osb-irony-out2.iinet.net.au>
 <20200307233049.AD71EA0BEA@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <00d001d5f4dc$278cf7b0$76a6e710$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

In the steering of real Healeys, (those built at Warwick) all the steering arms are connected to a triangular plate directly under the radiator that cushions any kickbacks from road undulations, bumps etc. It works really well in that regard.

 

The production cost of the front suspension of real Healeys must have been prohibitive in comparison to the Austin parts-bin suspension fitted to Austin-Healeys. Geoff Healey in one of his books did say that the Austin designed suspension did work better than the Healey design.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, 8 March 2020 10:30 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

Steering kickback is mainly due to one or both of the front tires impacting with an obstacle. Type of suspension and/or steering design has a lot to do with the result (kickback) of the steering wheel. As Perter mentioned vehicles that are used ?off road? or on rough roads will experience the sore fingers that happen when the right front tire bangs that 2 foot boulder on the road shoulder and the steering wheel suddenly breaks your death grip you have on it. 

Assuming that the device is a steering damper we could surmise that the BJ8 of this thread may have had a hard life.  Hard but perhaps fun!

P

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: Peter  <mailto:greylinn at ozemail.com.au> & Veronica
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 5:26 PM
To: Max Byers <mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com> ; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

...anyone who?s had a Series Landrover would know all about those ? basically a transverse shock absorber to stop steering kick-back. I?ve had several of those. Interesting though that my special bodied Healey 100 (the Ward Special) also had one fitted ? presumably from its days as an Ausca-bodied race car.

 

Cheers

 

Peter Linn

Brisbane

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Mar  7 18:00:05 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 17:00:05 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey project for sale in Seattle area NFI
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89Q28mOBkM9zsgNfoRvcoSro96mNTg0AfV7vHMcqNnGfg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz89Q28mOBkM9zsgNfoRvcoSro96mNTg0AfV7vHMcqNnGfg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d2abdff9-f376-cf09-6719-f0bd73629c01@comcast.net>

Is that a Carter downdraft (single) carb?!

On 3/7/2020 2:02 PM, i erbs wrote:
> Looks to me? like a chevy engine? $16K USD
> https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/1960-austin-healey-3000-bt7/7087409505.html 
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
> _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
> (_________________________)
> ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB MG
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Mar  7 18:01:02 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 17:01:02 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <35b50f$86rc0u@icp-osb-irony-out2.iinet.net.au>
References: <20200307011020.B0D30A0C0C@autox.team.net>
 <61699FE6-72AE-4D06-80CE-F6675FF87B3C@gmail.com>
 <000801d5f4cd$0e8c81e0$2ba585a0$@rr.com>
 <35b50f$86rc0u@icp-osb-irony-out2.iinet.net.au>
Message-ID: <243027cc-7e86-4668-3ab7-d9fbc403e453@comcast.net>

I can't tell from the photo what it's attached to.

On 3/7/2020 2:26 PM, Peter & Veronica wrote:
>
> ...anyone who?s had a Series Landrover would know all about those ? 
> basically a transverse shock absorber to stop steering kick-back. I?ve 
> had several of those. Interesting though that my special bodied Healey 
> 100 (the Ward Special) also had one fitted ? presumably from its days 
> as an Ausca-bodied race car.
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter Linn
>
> Brisbane
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *Max Byers <mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> *Sent: *Sunday, 8 March 2020 8:09 AM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
>
> I contacted the previous owner of 42351 who owned it from 1990 to 
> 2014.? He had no knowledge of the gizmo on the steering rod and said 
> he did not recall his mechanic either installing it or mentioning it.
>
> I called the telephone number I have recorded for the owner prior to 
> that (1986 ? 1990) but got an answering machine with a message in 
> Spanish.? I left a message about the reason for the car and invited a 
> return response.? If I get one, I?ll post it to the list.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NC
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *David Nock
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 7, 2020 12:37 PM
> *To:* Perry
> *Cc:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
>
> Might just be a good upgrade to help stop that Healey scuttle shake.
>
> David Nock
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 6, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> 
> wrote:
>
>     ?
>
>     I would say yes and a control valve assembly and other stuff. I
>     could not find the BJ8 Michael mentioned on the Fantasy Junction
>     website to look for additional info on the car in question.
>
>     P
>
>     Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>
>     for Windows 10
>
>     *From: *Bob Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>     *Sent: *Friday, March 6, 2020 7:38 PM
>     *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
>
>     You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?
>
>     On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
>
>         Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on
>         the 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.
>
>         Perry
>
>         Sent from Mail
>         <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10
>
>         *From: *Bob Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>         *Sent: *Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
>         *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>         *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
>
>         Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?
>
>
>         On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com
>         <mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>             I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ?
>             typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as
>             a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or
>             benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to
>             compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].
>
>             ----------------
>
>             All the best,
>
>             Al Fuller
>
>             *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
>             <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of
>             *Michael Salter
>             *Sent:* Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
>             *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>             *Subject:* [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Mar  7 18:04:45 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 20:04:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey project for sale in Seattle area NFI
In-Reply-To: <d2abdff9-f376-cf09-6719-f0bd73629c01@comcast.net>
References: <CABXhz89Q28mOBkM9zsgNfoRvcoSro96mNTg0AfV7vHMcqNnGfg@mail.gmail.com>
 <d2abdff9-f376-cf09-6719-f0bd73629c01@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.45.1583629493.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Looks like an auto trans too

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Bob Spidell
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 8:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] healey project for sale in Seattle area NFI

Is that a Carter downdraft (single) carb?!
On 3/7/2020 2:02 PM, i erbs wrote:
Looks to me? like a chevy engine? $16K USD 
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/1960-austin-healey-3000-bt7/7087409505.html??

Ira Erbs 
Portland,OR
? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?_______
? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
? ? ? ?? (_________________________)
? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB ?

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words



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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Sat Mar  7 19:36:13 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 21:36:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey project for sale in Seattle area NFI
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz89Q28mOBkM9zsgNfoRvcoSro96mNTg0AfV7vHMcqNnGfg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz89Q28mOBkM9zsgNfoRvcoSro96mNTg0AfV7vHMcqNnGfg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfbaodZL9ABFUXJMN3ygp_LueAM=OKBzU995T4=3hg7pg@mail.gmail.com>

With an automatic transmission.

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On Sat, Mar 7, 2020 at 5:03 PM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Looks to me  like a chevy engine  $16K USD
>
> https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/1960-austin-healey-3000-bt7/7087409505.html
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Sat Mar  7 19:42:25 2020
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 19:42:25 -0700 (MST)
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions
In-Reply-To: <026101d5d463$bd275520$3775ff60$@gmail.com>
References: <2028188767.24467791.1583635238102.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <1915188001.24469065.1583635345038.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>

Update.Have decided on a 2 pronged approach.Filled with NGLI - 00 grease and monitoring for ANY leaks.So far so good.ANY signs of leaking will do it properly and replace the seal.
On a separate note beware ... there is always a crocodile lurking. I ordered a cannister of the Penrite grease and ariived no issue. However the Oz Penrite cannister is a larger diameter and does not fit our DIN 1284 sized grease guns (used in USA Canada UK and Europe) .... grrr ! Never received any comment from Penrite about this.
So had to resort to spooning with the usual mess and wastage ....rg
----- Original Message -----
From: Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com>
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, 26 Jan 2020 09:14:51 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions
Guys.This is an interesting thread and I absolutely agree with use of the NLGI grease. This becomes a ?fit and forget? mod. Neglible ? probably zero ? leaks and therefore no need to ever top up again. The stuff sticks like 5h1t to a blanket and gets dragged by the worm into the rocker arm bearing surface. I practically brimmed mine after replacing the oil seals and it has never leaked.Regarding R&R in situ.  Removal of the column/box really isn?t a big deal. The sequence, from memory:Disconnect the bullets and withdraw the trafficator including stator tube in one piece. Plug the exit hole olive and nut with a 3/8? bolt to minimise oil over the floor.Steering wheel off and grille out.Undo column clamp and three box bolts. Split the steering rod joints.The box comes out easily then by rotating it and drawing out of the grille opening.  The trick for re-installing is to slide a PVC tube into the car long enough to pass from grille opening into the cockpit. Plumbing waste pipe here in the UK. The engine bay grommet plate is positioned on the plastic tube and the grommet as two separate items. Slide the column into the tube and through the grille until the box can be caught on a front trunnion bolt. Then withdraw the plastic tube and install the clamp, plates and grommets.It isn?t as difficult as it may appear and makes working on the box a very comfortable exercise at the bench.JM2CHave funAlanB   From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Sent: 26 January 2020 10:10
To: 'Perry'
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Yes. Further to my last email, there is further info on the tube:-?Polyurea thickened grease that is a superior corn head lubricant?.&?Applications:Corn head gear cases, irrigation system gear boxes, and gear boxes requiring NLGi ?O? grade grease?.&, rather relevantly,?Problem solving grease for gearboxes with leaky seals?.Were not half of the text in French, I remain confident that there would be reference to ?leaky old Brit cars?????!Simon From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys
Sent: 26 January 2020 02:19
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions ListersLooks like the common denominator on these thick oils/pourable greases is that they meet the requirements of  NLGI 00standard (NLGI is National Lubricating Grease Institute).  This topic is a common one in the old car world with folks like us. The results of the use of this product, mainly lack of leaks on old steering boxes, is mentioned on many sites. So if you have an very old Chevy or a AH this stuff is helpful. Not saying that a properly repaired steering box can?t be nearly leak free but for most of us this stuff will make the situation much better. Don?t let the term grease deter your use.  It still flows to all the places that need lubrication but resists leaking out.   By the way there are lots of sources for this stuff under many name brands and retailers.  NAPA, John Deere and a multitude of others.  Use the NLGI 00 specs to find supplier near you.Perry Sent from Mail for Windows 10 From: Chris Dimmock
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 6:33 PM
To: Roger Grace
Cc: Austin Healey
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions Penrite comes in grease gun cartridges. I replace the filler with a 1/4 bsp nipple to fill https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/STEERING%20BOX%20LUBE.pdf 
On 26 Jan 2020, at 6:18 am, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:Two questions for the more experienced among us ... My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft.  
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Sat Mar  7 20:10:38 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 22:10:38 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] healey project for sale in Seattle area NFI
In-Reply-To: <d2abdff9-f376-cf09-6719-f0bd73629c01@comcast.net>
References: <CABXhz89Q28mOBkM9zsgNfoRvcoSro96mNTg0AfV7vHMcqNnGfg@mail.gmail.com>
 <d2abdff9-f376-cf09-6719-f0bd73629c01@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfjQpMxZ_Y8oUxdD4WbegG1x4sPe=mA+_qDGQTq=-twgw@mail.gmail.com>

Speaking of a Chevy 6 in a Healey, one of the cooler nasty boys I've seen
sports an all aluminum Chevy Vortec 4200 DOHC Atlas motor running through a
Camaro 5 speed.  Makes 270 hp and fits quite nicely with some work on the
induction.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/83758-chevrolet-vortec-4200-inline-six-engine
Running through stock Healey pipes it sounds very Healey-like.

Rick Neville

<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
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On Sat, Mar 7, 2020 at 8:00 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Is that a Carter downdraft (single) carb?!
>
> On 3/7/2020 2:02 PM, i erbs wrote:
>
> Looks to me  like a chevy engine  $16K USD
>
> https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/1960-austin-healey-3000-bt7/7087409505.html
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sat Mar  7 21:05:22 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sat, 7 Mar 2020 20:05:22 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] healey project for sale in Seattle area NFI
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZfjQpMxZ_Y8oUxdD4WbegG1x4sPe=mA+_qDGQTq=-twgw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz89Q28mOBkM9zsgNfoRvcoSro96mNTg0AfV7vHMcqNnGfg@mail.gmail.com>
 <d2abdff9-f376-cf09-6719-f0bd73629c01@comcast.net>
 <CAGfzsZfjQpMxZ_Y8oUxdD4WbegG1x4sPe=mA+_qDGQTq=-twgw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8966ac4O0NgNmMe4mdLnx=15X9nOLFGvmdVM=1yAg2Eyg@mail.gmail.com>

Seems like stock pipes would be restrictive.
Must run great.

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Sat, Mar 7, 2020, 7:11 PM HealeyRick <healeyrik at gmail.com> wrote:

> Speaking of a Chevy 6 in a Healey, one of the cooler nasty boys I've seen
> sports an all aluminum Chevy Vortec 4200 DOHC Atlas motor running through a
> Camaro 5 speed.  Makes 270 hp and fits quite nicely with some work on the
> induction.
> http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/83758-chevrolet-vortec-4200-inline-six-engine
> Running through stock Healey pipes it sounds very Healey-like.
>
> Rick Neville
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link>
> <#m_-3322915783197439983_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> On Sat, Mar 7, 2020 at 8:00 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Is that a Carter downdraft (single) carb?!
>>
>> On 3/7/2020 2:02 PM, i erbs wrote:
>>
>> Looks to me  like a chevy engine  $16K USD
>>
>> https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/1960-austin-healey-3000-bt7/7087409505.html
>>
>> Ira Erbs
>> Portland,OR
>>       _______                                  _______
>>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>>          (_________________________)
>>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>>
>>
>> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>>
>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link>
> <#m_-3322915783197439983_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From rjhco at att.net  Sun Mar  8 16:52:51 2020
From: rjhco at att.net (rjhco at att.net)
Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2020 17:52:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions
In-Reply-To: <1915188001.24469065.1583635345038.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
References: <2028188767.24467791.1583635238102.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <1915188001.24469065.1583635345038.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <000001d5f59c$4d7b7ee0$e8727ca0$@att.net>

Another option for steering box lube is the product used for Land Rover swivel housings (steering box). Readily available.

 

I recently completed a removal of the BJ8 steering box, complete rebuild with new bush, caged bearings and seals, then reinstall in the car.  I used the LR lube ? no leaks and now, no steering play??.

 

Happy Healeying!!!

Jim Hockert

Dallas, TX

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Roger Grace
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2020 8:42 PM
To: Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions

 

Update.

Have decided on a 2 pronged approach.

Filled with NGLI - 00 grease and monitoring for ANY leaks.

So far so good.

ANY signs of leaking will do it properly and replace the seal.

 

On a separate note beware ... there is always a crocodile lurking. I ordered a cannister of the Penrite grease and ariived no issue. However the Oz Penrite cannister is a larger diameter and does not fit our DIN 1284 sized grease guns (used in USA Canada UK and Europe) .... grrr ! Never received any comment from Penrite about this.

So had to resort to spooning with the usual mess and wastage ....

rg

 

----- Original Message -----
From: Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com <mailto:bluehealey at gmail.com> >
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Sun, 26 Jan 2020 09:14:51 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions

 

Guys.

This is an interesting thread and I absolutely agree with use of the NLGI grease. This becomes a ?fit and forget? mod. Neglible ? probably zero ? leaks and therefore no need to ever top up again. The stuff sticks like 5h1t to a blanket and gets dragged by the worm into the rocker arm bearing surface. I practically brimmed mine after replacing the oil seals and it has never leaked.

Regarding R&R in situ.  Removal of the column/box really isn?t a big deal. The sequence, from memory:

Disconnect the bullets and withdraw the trafficator including stator tube in one piece. Plug the exit hole olive and nut with a 3/8? bolt to minimise oil over the floor.

Steering wheel off and grille out.

Undo column clamp and three box bolts. Split the steering rod joints.

The box comes out easily then by rotating it and drawing out of the grille opening. 

 

The trick for re-installing is to slide a PVC tube into the car long enough to pass from grille opening into the cockpit. Plumbing waste pipe here in the UK. The engine bay grommet plate is positioned on the plastic tube and the grommet as two separate items. Slide the column into the tube and through the grille until the box can be caught on a front trunnion bolt. Then withdraw the plastic tube and install the clamp, plates and grommets.

It isn?t as difficult as it may appear and makes working on the box a very comfortable exercise at the bench.

JM2C

Have fun

AlanB



 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: 26 January 2020 10:10
To: 'Perry'
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions

 

Yes. Further to my last email, there is further info on the tube:-

?Polyurea thickened grease that is a superior corn head lubricant?.

&

?Applications:

Corn head gear cases, irrigation system gear boxes, and gear boxes requiring NLGi ?O? grade grease?.

&, rather relevantly,

?Problem solving grease for gearboxes with leaky seals?.

Were not half of the text in French, I remain confident that there would be reference to ?leaky old Brit cars?????!

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys
Sent: 26 January 2020 02:19
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions

 

Listers

Looks like the common denominator on these thick oils/pourable greases is that they meet the requirements of  NLGI 00standard (NLGI is National Lubricating Grease Institute).  This topic is a common one in the old car world with folks like us. The results of the use of this product, mainly lack of leaks on old steering boxes, is mentioned on many sites. So if you have an very old Chevy or a AH this stuff is helpful. Not saying that a properly repaired steering box can?t be nearly leak free but for most of us this stuff will make the situation much better. Don?t let the term grease deter your use.  It still flows to all the places that need lubrication but resists leaking out.   By the way there are lots of sources for this stuff under many name brands and retailers.  NAPA, John Deere and a multitude of others.  Use the NLGI 00 specs to find supplier near you.

Perry

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: Chris Dimmock <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com> 
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 6:33 PM
To: Roger Grace <mailto:roggrace at telus.net> 
Cc: Austin Healey <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions

 

Penrite comes in grease gun cartridges. 

I replace the filler with a 1/4 bsp nipple to fill

 

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/STEERING%20BOX%20LUBE.pdf

 


On 26 Jan 2020, at 6:18 am, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net <mailto:roggrace at telus.net> > wrote:

Two questions for the more experienced among us ...

 

My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft.

 

 

 

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From rjhco at att.net  Sun Mar  8 16:52:51 2020
From: rjhco at att.net (rjhco at att.net)
Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2020 17:52:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions
In-Reply-To: <1915188001.24469065.1583635345038.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
References: <2028188767.24467791.1583635238102.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <1915188001.24469065.1583635345038.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <000001d5f59c$4d7b7ee0$e8727ca0$@att.net>

Another option for steering box lube is the product used for Land Rover swivel housings (steering box). Readily available.

 

I recently completed a removal of the BJ8 steering box, complete rebuild with new bush, caged bearings and seals, then reinstall in the car.  I used the LR lube ? no leaks and now, no steering play??.

 

Happy Healeying!!!

Jim Hockert

Dallas, TX

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Roger Grace
Sent: Saturday, March 07, 2020 8:42 PM
To: Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions

 

Update.

Have decided on a 2 pronged approach.

Filled with NGLI - 00 grease and monitoring for ANY leaks.

So far so good.

ANY signs of leaking will do it properly and replace the seal.

 

On a separate note beware ... there is always a crocodile lurking. I ordered a cannister of the Penrite grease and ariived no issue. However the Oz Penrite cannister is a larger diameter and does not fit our DIN 1284 sized grease guns (used in USA Canada UK and Europe) .... grrr ! Never received any comment from Penrite about this.

So had to resort to spooning with the usual mess and wastage ....

rg

 

----- Original Message -----
From: Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com <mailto:bluehealey at gmail.com> >
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Sun, 26 Jan 2020 09:14:51 -0700 (MST)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions

 

Guys.

This is an interesting thread and I absolutely agree with use of the NLGI grease. This becomes a ?fit and forget? mod. Neglible ? probably zero ? leaks and therefore no need to ever top up again. The stuff sticks like 5h1t to a blanket and gets dragged by the worm into the rocker arm bearing surface. I practically brimmed mine after replacing the oil seals and it has never leaked.

Regarding R&R in situ.  Removal of the column/box really isn?t a big deal. The sequence, from memory:

Disconnect the bullets and withdraw the trafficator including stator tube in one piece. Plug the exit hole olive and nut with a 3/8? bolt to minimise oil over the floor.

Steering wheel off and grille out.

Undo column clamp and three box bolts. Split the steering rod joints.

The box comes out easily then by rotating it and drawing out of the grille opening. 

 

The trick for re-installing is to slide a PVC tube into the car long enough to pass from grille opening into the cockpit. Plumbing waste pipe here in the UK. The engine bay grommet plate is positioned on the plastic tube and the grommet as two separate items. Slide the column into the tube and through the grille until the box can be caught on a front trunnion bolt. Then withdraw the plastic tube and install the clamp, plates and grommets.

It isn?t as difficult as it may appear and makes working on the box a very comfortable exercise at the bench.

JM2C

Have fun

AlanB



 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: 26 January 2020 10:10
To: 'Perry'
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions

 

Yes. Further to my last email, there is further info on the tube:-

?Polyurea thickened grease that is a superior corn head lubricant?.

&

?Applications:

Corn head gear cases, irrigation system gear boxes, and gear boxes requiring NLGi ?O? grade grease?.

&, rather relevantly,

?Problem solving grease for gearboxes with leaky seals?.

Were not half of the text in French, I remain confident that there would be reference to ?leaky old Brit cars?????!

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys
Sent: 26 January 2020 02:19
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions

 

Listers

Looks like the common denominator on these thick oils/pourable greases is that they meet the requirements of  NLGI 00standard (NLGI is National Lubricating Grease Institute).  This topic is a common one in the old car world with folks like us. The results of the use of this product, mainly lack of leaks on old steering boxes, is mentioned on many sites. So if you have an very old Chevy or a AH this stuff is helpful. Not saying that a properly repaired steering box can?t be nearly leak free but for most of us this stuff will make the situation much better. Don?t let the term grease deter your use.  It still flows to all the places that need lubrication but resists leaking out.   By the way there are lots of sources for this stuff under many name brands and retailers.  NAPA, John Deere and a multitude of others.  Use the NLGI 00 specs to find supplier near you.

Perry

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: Chris Dimmock <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com> 
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 6:33 PM
To: Roger Grace <mailto:roggrace at telus.net> 
Cc: Austin Healey <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions

 

Penrite comes in grease gun cartridges. 

I replace the filler with a 1/4 bsp nipple to fill

 

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/STEERING%20BOX%20LUBE.pdf

 


On 26 Jan 2020, at 6:18 am, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net <mailto:roggrace at telus.net> > wrote:

Two questions for the more experienced among us ...

 

My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more significantly from the shaft.

 

 

 

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Mar  8 17:06:57 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2020 16:06:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions
In-Reply-To: <1915188001.24469065.1583635345038.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
References: <2028188767.24467791.1583635238102.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
 <026101d5d463$bd275520$3775ff60$@gmail.com>
 <1915188001.24469065.1583635345038.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_xXpgDZJ5tfQsk344dCxvtcEguzUKjoytNt_imKorzXg@mail.gmail.com>

Try a large syringe and clear hose

Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
1959 Austin Healey BN4
1967 MGB

On Sat, Mar 7, 2020, 6:45 PM Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:

> Update.
> Have decided on a 2 pronged approach.
> Filled with NGLI - 00 grease and monitoring for ANY leaks.
> So far so good.
> ANY signs of leaking will do it properly and replace the seal.
>
> On a separate note beware ... there is always a crocodile lurking. I
> ordered a cannister of the Penrite grease and ariived no issue. However the
> Oz Penrite cannister is a larger diameter and does not fit our DIN 1284
> sized grease guns (used in USA Canada UK and Europe) .... grrr ! Never
> received any comment from Penrite about this.
> So had to resort to spooning with the usual mess and wastage ....
> rg
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com>
> To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, 26 Jan 2020 09:14:51 -0700 (MST)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions
>
> Guys.
>
> This is an interesting thread and I absolutely agree with use of the NLGI
> grease. This becomes a ?fit and forget? mod. Neglible ? probably zero ?
> leaks and therefore no need to ever top up again. The stuff sticks like
> 5h1t to a blanket and gets dragged by the worm into the rocker arm bearing
> surface. I practically brimmed mine after replacing the oil seals and it
> has never leaked.
>
> Regarding R&R in situ.  Removal of the column/box really isn?t a big deal.
> The sequence, from memory:
>
> Disconnect the bullets and withdraw the trafficator including stator tube
> in one piece. Plug the exit hole olive and nut with a 3/8? bolt to minimise
> oil over the floor.
>
> Steering wheel off and grille out.
>
> Undo column clamp and three box bolts. Split the steering rod joints.
>
> The box comes out easily then by rotating it and drawing out of the grille
> opening.
>
>
>
> The trick for re-installing is to slide a PVC tube into the car long
> enough to pass from grille opening into the cockpit. Plumbing waste pipe
> here in the UK. The engine bay grommet plate is positioned on the plastic
> tube and the grommet as two separate items. Slide the column into the tube
> and through the grille until the box can be caught on a front trunnion
> bolt. Then withdraw the plastic tube and install the clamp, plates and
> grommets.
>
> It isn?t as difficult as it may appear and makes working on the box a very
> comfortable exercise at the bench.
>
> JM2C
>
> Have fun
>
> AlanB
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *
> simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> *Sent:* 26 January 2020 10:10
> *To:* 'Perry'
> *Cc:* 'Healeys'
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions
>
>
>
> Yes. Further to my last email, there is further info on the tube:-
>
> ?Polyurea thickened grease that is a superior corn head lubricant?.
>
> &
>
> ?Applications:
>
> Corn head gear cases, irrigation system gear boxes, and gear boxes
> requiring NLGi ?O? grade grease?.
>
> &, rather relevantly,
>
> ?Problem solving grease for gearboxes with leaky seals?.
>
> Were not half of the text in French, I remain confident that there would
> be reference to ?leaky old Brit cars?????!
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Perry via
> Healeys
> *Sent:* 26 January 2020 02:19
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions
>
>
>
> Listers
>
> Looks like the common denominator on these thick oils/pourable greases is
> that they meet the requirements of  *NLGI 00*standard (NLGI is National
> Lubricating Grease Institute).  This topic is a common one in the old car
> world with folks like us. The results of the use of this product, mainly
> lack of leaks on old steering boxes, is mentioned on many sites. So if you
> have an very old Chevy or a AH this stuff is helpful. Not saying that a
> properly repaired steering box can?t be nearly leak free but for most of us
> this stuff will make the situation much better. Don?t let the term grease
> deter your use.  It still flows to all the places that need lubrication but
> resists leaking out.   By the way there are lots of sources for this stuff
> under many name brands and retailers.  NAPA, John Deere and a multitude of
> others.  Use the NLGI 00 specs to find supplier near you.
>
> Perry
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
> *Sent: *Saturday, January 25, 2020 6:33 PM
> *To: *Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net>
> *Cc: *Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Steering Box Questions
>
>
>
> Penrite comes in grease gun cartridges.
>
> I replace the filler with a 1/4 bsp nipple to fill
>
>
>
> https://www.penriteoil.com.au/assets/pis_pdfs/STEERING%20BOX%20LUBE.pdf
>
>
>
>
> On 26 Jan 2020, at 6:18 am, Roger Grace <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:
>
> Two questions for the more experienced among us ...
>
>
>
> My BJ8 steering box is leaking. From the front cover and more
> significantly from the shaft.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From jpd64 at yahoo.com  Sun Mar  8 18:25:04 2020
From: jpd64 at yahoo.com (Jon Doherty)
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2020 00:25:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Wanted Lucas LR10 Spotlights
References: <53477065.1189019.1583713504779.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <53477065.1189019.1583713504779@mail.yahoo.com>

Hi,
I'm looking for Lucas LR10 spotlights in nice condition if anyone has them to sell.? I also might be interested in Lucas FT10, LR11, or FT11 lights as many of the parts are interchangeable.??
Thanks,Jon Doherty
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Mar  8 18:58:52 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2020 20:58:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wanted Lucas LR10 Spotlights
In-Reply-To: <53477065.1189019.1583713504779@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <53477065.1189019.1583713504779.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <53477065.1189019.1583713504779@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6q2dfWMG4a0PTtd7JmCO0N2kV-94tJcaSq8DqNYJfGow@mail.gmail.com>

Check this out:
https://www.mgexp.com/forum/buy-sell-and-trade-forum.42/fs-lucas-lr10-spot-driving-lights-pair.3950878/

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Mar 8, 2020 at 8:27 PM Jon Doherty via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I'm looking for Lucas LR10 spotlights in nice condition if anyone has them
> to sell.  I also might be interested in Lucas FT10, LR11, or FT11 lights as
> many of the parts are interchangeable.
>
> Thanks,
> Jon Doherty
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From jpd64 at yahoo.com  Sun Mar  8 19:15:17 2020
From: jpd64 at yahoo.com (Jon Doherty)
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2020 01:15:17 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Wanted Lucas LR10 Spotlights
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B6q2dfWMG4a0PTtd7JmCO0N2kV-94tJcaSq8DqNYJfGow@mail.gmail.com>
References: <53477065.1189019.1583713504779.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <53477065.1189019.1583713504779@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B6q2dfWMG4a0PTtd7JmCO0N2kV-94tJcaSq8DqNYJfGow@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <236114911.19592.1583716517282@mail.yahoo.com>

 Michael,
I spoke to this gentleman a couple months ago and he was having second thoughts about selling them.? I'll try contacting him again and see if he has made up his mind.
Thanks for the lead though
Jon
    On Sunday, March 8, 2020, 05:59:04 PM PDT, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Check this out:??https://www.mgexp.com/forum/buy-sell-and-trade-forum.42/fs-lucas-lr10-spot-driving-lights-pair.3950878/
Best--Michael Oritt
On Sun, Mar 8, 2020 at 8:27 PM Jon Doherty via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Hi,
I'm looking for Lucas LR10 spotlights in nice condition if anyone has them to sell.? I also might be interested in Lucas FT10, LR11, or FT11 lights as many of the parts are interchangeable.??
Thanks,Jon Doherty_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com


  
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Mar  8 20:49:53 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 8 Mar 2020 22:49:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Wanted Lucas LR10 Spotlights
In-Reply-To: <236114911.19592.1583716517282@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <53477065.1189019.1583713504779.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <53477065.1189019.1583713504779@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B6q2dfWMG4a0PTtd7JmCO0N2kV-94tJcaSq8DqNYJfGow@mail.gmail.com>
 <236114911.19592.1583716517282@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4OnGQ6ZJRYpgXWiNAgF-OPP2g5KfFWwivxrtj+oyjcSQ@mail.gmail.com>

I saw the date on the listing and figured you had probably already checked
it out but just wanted to pass it along.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Mar 8, 2020 at 9:15 PM Jon Doherty <jpd64 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Michael,
>
> I spoke to this gentleman a couple months ago and he was having second
> thoughts about selling them.  I'll try contacting him again and see if he
> has made up his mind.
>
> Thanks for the lead though
>
> Jon
>
> On Sunday, March 8, 2020, 05:59:04 PM PDT, Michael Oritt <
> michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Check this out:
> https://www.mgexp.com/forum/buy-sell-and-trade-forum.42/fs-lucas-lr10-spot-driving-lights-pair.3950878/
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sun, Mar 8, 2020 at 8:27 PM Jon Doherty via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm looking for Lucas LR10 spotlights in nice condition if anyone has them
> to sell.  I also might be interested in Lucas FT10, LR11, or FT11 lights as
> many of the parts are interchangeable.
>
> Thanks,
> Jon Doherty
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Mon Mar  9 10:50:16 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2020 16:50:16 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rally
Message-ID: <000001d5f632$d1578830$74069890$@alexarevel.plus.com>

See:-

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/classic/classics-put-test-east-african-endu
rance-rally/rally-globe-classic-car-event12/

 

Could be that the link won't work outside of UK. Licensing or something
similar....

If not, Google "East African Endurance Rally" or similar. Some good pics.

I've driven  a lot in those areas. Those roads are tough in the dry and, in
the wet, they're frightful. Lots of fun though. And the locals are not
uniformly welcoming either. You would not want to break down by yourselves
in the middle of nowhere...

Simon

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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Mon Mar  9 11:25:15 2020
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2020 17:25:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Rally
In-Reply-To: <000001d5f632$d1578830$74069890$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d5f632$d1578830$74069890$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <b9467f4c-b9ba-d45e-99c7-c61192d56edd@summaventures.com>

https://www.eastafricansafarirally.com/photos-video/2019-video-reports/

is, I think, the same thing.

Peter

On 09/03/2020 16:50, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
> See:-
> 
> https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/classic/classics-put-test-east-african-endurance-rally/rally-globe-classic-car-event12/
> 
> ?
> 
> Could be that the link won?t work outside of UK. Licensing or something
> similar??..
> 
> If not, Google ?East African Endurance Rally? or similar. Some good pics.
> 
> I?ve driven? a lot in those areas. Those roads are tough in the dry and,
> in the wet, they?re frightful. Lots of fun though. And the locals are
> not uniformly welcoming either. You would not want to break down by
> yourselves in the middle of nowhere??.
> 
> Simon
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From healey100s at live.com  Mon Mar  9 15:51:49 2020
From: healey100s at live.com (Don Anglesey)
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2020 21:51:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Auction for 100 6
Message-ID: <DM6PR10MB38989822A049C9183348A2ACFDFE0@DM6PR10MB3898.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Decent looking 59' 100-6 if anyone looking.  No knowledge of car or financial interest.
Don

https://rhynaldsauction.hibid.com/catalog/203316/day--2---hultine-estate---hastings--ne/

Sent from my Galaxy Tab? A
Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/ghei36>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Mar  9 21:29:07 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 9 Mar 2020 20:29:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auction for 100 6
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR10MB38989822A049C9183348A2ACFDFE0@DM6PR10MB3898.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR10MB38989822A049C9183348A2ACFDFE0@DM6PR10MB3898.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <3213d1b8-e30c-5e7c-65d9-06d3be2d58fe@comcast.net>

Ah ... has the rare and highly desirable reversed front wing side flash.

On 3/9/2020 2:51 PM, Don Anglesey wrote:
> Decent looking 59' 100-6 if anyone looking.? No knowledge of car or 
> financial interest.
> Don
>
> https://rhynaldsauction.hibid.com/catalog/203316/day--2---hultine-estate---hastings--ne/
>
> Sent from my Galaxy Tab? A
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/ghei36>
>

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From crice_home at glasgow-ky.com  Tue Mar 10 00:41:04 2020
From: crice_home at glasgow-ky.com (Charles Rice)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 01:41:04 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
Message-ID: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>

I ordered a head and related parts from Welch.  After a few weeks backorder
they notified me yesterday that the shipment is ready.
I had thought I could pay with VISA, in fact I called VISA and they said it
would be fine and there should be no charge for currency conversion.
But now Welch says they cannot accept my VISA, rather I must make a direct
bank transfer to their "HSBC Bank" and it must be in Pound Sterling!
I checked with two local banks and they said online banking cannot send
anything other than US Dollars -- my only option is Western Union
and this would cost an additional $520!    Surely there is a better way --
those on the list that have ordered from Welch recently, can you
share with me how you sent payment?
     Thanks -- Chappy rice  BN2





-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Tue Mar 10 01:37:10 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 08:37:10 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
In-Reply-To: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
References: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
Message-ID: <8d7047b8-185e-300c-48dd-7b571c12d062@chello.nl>

Most firms will accept Paypal.

Very odd that you can only pay in $$ when paying by regular internet 
banking.

The $520 extra is an incredible amount. I have used Western Union in the 
very distant past and also at that time they robbed you.

The British banking system is archaic and very reluctant to go online. 
There are always problems and complications (even when they were in the 
EU) and huge costs paying from and to the UK unless you can pay by 
credit card. They rob the public

In the end Paypal is probably the cheapest (+ca. 3,5%) and you can pay 
directly with GBP (however rates are not very favourable).

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 10-3-2020 om 07:41 schreef Charles Rice:
> I ordered a head and related parts from Welch.  After a few weeks backorder
> they notified me yesterday that the shipment is ready.
> I had thought I could pay with VISA, in fact I called VISA and they said it
> would be fine and there should be no charge for currency conversion.
> But now Welch says they cannot accept my VISA, rather I must make a direct
> bank transfer to their "HSBC Bank" and it must be in Pound Sterling!
> I checked with two local banks and they said online banking cannot send
> anything other than US Dollars -- my only option is Western Union
> and this would cost an additional $520!    Surely there is a better way --
> those on the list that have ordered from Welch recently, can you
> share with me how you sent payment?
>       Thanks -- Chappy rice  BN2
>
>
>
>
>

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue Mar 10 01:52:31 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 08:52:31 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
In-Reply-To: <8d7047b8-185e-300c-48dd-7b571c12d062@chello.nl>
References: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
 <8d7047b8-185e-300c-48dd-7b571c12d062@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <D6FC2D19-F631-4952-8114-F92B123748A8@rogers.com>

Hmmm, I?ve definitely ordered with my Visa from Denis Welch (from Canada) mind you, it wasn?t as large amount as you would be talking about.
My problem was that they didn?t have a favourable rate with a shipper-the way the other  U.K. suppliers do.

Stephen BJ8

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 10, 2020, at 8:37 AM, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> 
> Most firms will accept Paypal.
> 
> Very odd that you can only pay in $$ when paying by regular internet banking.
> 
> The $520 extra is an incredible amount. I have used Western Union in the very distant past and also at that time they robbed you.
> 
> The British banking system is archaic and very reluctant to go online. There are always problems and complications (even when they were in the EU) and huge costs paying from and to the UK unless you can pay by credit card. They rob the public
> 
> In the end Paypal is probably the cheapest (+ca. 3,5%) and you can pay directly with GBP (however rates are not very favourable).
> 
> Kees Oudesluijs
> 
> 
> Op 10-3-2020 om 07:41 schreef Charles Rice:
>> I ordered a head and related parts from Welch.  After a few weeks backorder
>> they notified me yesterday that the shipment is ready.
>> I had thought I could pay with VISA, in fact I called VISA and they said it
>> would be fine and there should be no charge for currency conversion.
>> But now Welch says they cannot accept my VISA, rather I must make a direct
>> bank transfer to their "HSBC Bank" and it must be in Pound Sterling!
>> I checked with two local banks and they said online banking cannot send
>> anything other than US Dollars -- my only option is Western Union
>> and this would cost an additional $520!    Surely there is a better way --
>> those on the list that have ordered from Welch recently, can you
>> share with me how you sent payment?
>>      Thanks -- Chappy rice  BN2
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> 
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue Mar 10 01:52:31 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 08:52:31 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
In-Reply-To: <8d7047b8-185e-300c-48dd-7b571c12d062@chello.nl>
References: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
 <8d7047b8-185e-300c-48dd-7b571c12d062@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <D6FC2D19-F631-4952-8114-F92B123748A8@rogers.com>

Hmmm, I?ve definitely ordered with my Visa from Denis Welch (from Canada) mind you, it wasn?t as large amount as you would be talking about.
My problem was that they didn?t have a favourable rate with a shipper-the way the other  U.K. suppliers do.

Stephen BJ8

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 10, 2020, at 8:37 AM, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl> wrote:
> 
> Most firms will accept Paypal.
> 
> Very odd that you can only pay in $$ when paying by regular internet banking.
> 
> The $520 extra is an incredible amount. I have used Western Union in the very distant past and also at that time they robbed you.
> 
> The British banking system is archaic and very reluctant to go online. There are always problems and complications (even when they were in the EU) and huge costs paying from and to the UK unless you can pay by credit card. They rob the public
> 
> In the end Paypal is probably the cheapest (+ca. 3,5%) and you can pay directly with GBP (however rates are not very favourable).
> 
> Kees Oudesluijs
> 
> 
> Op 10-3-2020 om 07:41 schreef Charles Rice:
>> I ordered a head and related parts from Welch.  After a few weeks backorder
>> they notified me yesterday that the shipment is ready.
>> I had thought I could pay with VISA, in fact I called VISA and they said it
>> would be fine and there should be no charge for currency conversion.
>> But now Welch says they cannot accept my VISA, rather I must make a direct
>> bank transfer to their "HSBC Bank" and it must be in Pound Sterling!
>> I checked with two local banks and they said online banking cannot send
>> anything other than US Dollars -- my only option is Western Union
>> and this would cost an additional $520!    Surely there is a better way --
>> those on the list that have ordered from Welch recently, can you
>> share with me how you sent payment?
>>      Thanks -- Chappy rice  BN2
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Mar 10 06:04:29 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 08:04:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
In-Reply-To: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
References: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
Message-ID: <086801d5f6d4$0dde74c0$299b5e40$@gmail.com>

I ordered my tires from Longstone a 2 months ago and could pay in Pounds or
Dollars on my Mastercard credit card.  The dollars was the best price and
the shipping was free. Delivered by HRH Post quickly.  Maybe their financial
relationship is with a bank that will not do business in Euros.  Very
strange in this day and age.  I would think they would welcome business from
the EU eventhough the UK is leaving.

Bob Begani

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Charles Rice
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2020 2:41 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch

I ordered a head and related parts from Welch.  After a few weeks backorder
they notified me yesterday that the shipment is ready.
I had thought I could pay with VISA, in fact I called VISA and they said it
would be fine and there should be no charge for currency conversion.
But now Welch says they cannot accept my VISA, rather I must make a direct
bank transfer to their "HSBC Bank" and it must be in Pound Sterling!
I checked with two local banks and they said online banking cannot send
anything other than US Dollars -- my only option is Western Union
and this would cost an additional $520!    Surely there is a better way --
those on the list that have ordered from Welch recently, can you share with
me how you sent payment?
     Thanks -- Chappy rice  BN2





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From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Tue Mar 10 07:00:41 2020
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 09:00:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
In-Reply-To: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
References: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
Message-ID: <f075aa1e-fb29-9fef-9793-5566fa9ff8e9@htcnet.org>

Before Brexit, I ordered a head and parts from DW and paid with a visa.? 
Shipping was $280.? Of course this was 2015.

John
64/66 BJ8s

On 3/10/2020 2:41 AM, Charles Rice wrote:
> I ordered a head and related parts from Welch.  After a few weeks backorder
> they notified me yesterday that the shipment is ready.
> I had thought I could pay with VISA, in fact I called VISA and they said it
> would be fine and there should be no charge for currency conversion.
> But now Welch says they cannot accept my VISA, rather I must make a direct
> bank transfer to their "HSBC Bank" and it must be in Pound Sterling!
> I checked with two local banks and they said online banking cannot send
> anything other than US Dollars -- my only option is Western Union
> and this would cost an additional $520!    Surely there is a better way --
> those on the list that have ordered from Welch recently, can you
> share with me how you sent payment?
>       Thanks -- Chappy rice  BN2
>
>
>
>
>



From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Tue Mar 10 08:31:25 2020
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 14:31:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
In-Reply-To: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
References: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
Message-ID: <efda84bf-66f3-5653-f7a4-06085c1df64c@summaventures.com>

I am very surprised by this. There must be a reason why DW won't accept
such a large paymemt, perhaps the issue is with Visa.

Just to put things straight - well a bit :-) As someone in the UK who
has had to receive payments from US, the biggest problem has always been
at the US end. Many smaller US banks simply don't want/can't be
bothered/don't know how to deal with international inter-bank transfers.
It was usually a question of going back to the US bank with the correct
SWIFT/IBAN number and just telling them to get on with it! I had one
client who had to go to his bank four times before the bank finally go
their act together.

The bit about $-only is also untrue: I was being paid in Euro. If I want
to buy something or pay a bill in France (say) all I do is do make the
transfer on-line; or I call the bank in either case the transaction is
completed, generally within an hour certainly within a day.

Payment in GBP isn't really surprising, after all how many US suppliers
would want to accept GBP direct into their account? :-)

Paypal isn't that common here, I agree. Since HSBC is one of the largest
banks in the world I would be surprised if they can't accept it. It may
be that DW doesn't want to deal with it.

One of the issues with Paypal has been traceability and guarantees. From
a supplier's point of view bank-to-bank transfers offer traceability and
since they are (a) a guarantee by yours bank to the supplier's bank that
you have the wherewithall to pay; and (b) a guarantee by your bank that
the transfer will be made offer both you and (say) DW are much better
for the supplier. It has a final benefit, that of traceability: the
supplier can see where the payment is coming from and lets all sides
deal with any issues.

Hope this is of some help,

Peter



On 10/03/2020 06:41, Charles Rice wrote:
> I ordered a head and related parts from Welch.  After a few weeks backorder
> they notified me yesterday that the shipment is ready.
> I had thought I could pay with VISA, in fact I called VISA and they said it
> would be fine and there should be no charge for currency conversion.
> But now Welch says they cannot accept my VISA, rather I must make a direct
> bank transfer to their "HSBC Bank" and it must be in Pound Sterling!
> I checked with two local banks and they said online banking cannot send
> anything other than US Dollars -- my only option is Western Union
> and this would cost an additional $520!    Surely there is a better way --
> those on the list that have ordered from Welch recently, can you
> share with me how you sent payment?
>      Thanks -- Chappy rice  BN2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Mar 10 08:35:03 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 07:35:03 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
In-Reply-To: <8d7047b8-185e-300c-48dd-7b571c12d062@chello.nl>
References: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
 <8d7047b8-185e-300c-48dd-7b571c12d062@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <b1720b28-dc13-f146-11b2-95561c6ff943@comcast.net>

I think Chappy is in the US, no?

That's a terrible policy; probably to try to dodge the 'markup' from the 
CC companies (what is it, 2 or 3% the CCs tack on?).? At any rate, I 
have to believe that much (most?) of their business comes from the US; 
they may lose more money than they're paying the CC companies.? FWIW, I 
ordered a (backordered) steering column from them a year or so ago and 
they took my Visa.

Bob


On 3/10/2020 12:37 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
> Most firms will accept Paypal.
>
> Very odd that you can only pay in $$ when paying by regular internet 
> banking.
>
> The $520 extra is an incredible amount. I have used Western Union in 
> the very distant past and also at that time they robbed you.
>
> The British banking system is archaic and very reluctant to go online. 
> There are always problems and complications (even when they were in 
> the EU) and huge costs paying from and to the UK unless you can pay by 
> credit card. They rob the public
>
> In the end Paypal is probably the cheapest (+ca. 3,5%) and you can pay 
> directly with GBP (however rates are not very favourable).
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 10-3-2020 om 07:41 schreef Charles Rice:
>> I ordered a head and related parts from Welch.? After a few weeks 
>> backorder
>> they notified me yesterday that the shipment is ready.
>> I had thought I could pay with VISA, in fact I called VISA and they 
>> said it
>> would be fine and there should be no charge for currency conversion.
>> But now Welch says they cannot accept my VISA, rather I must make a 
>> direct
>> bank transfer to their "HSBC Bank" and it must be in Pound Sterling!
>> I checked with two local banks and they said online banking cannot send
>> anything other than US Dollars -- my only option is Western Union
>> and this would cost an additional $520!??? Surely there is a better 
>> way --
>> those on the list that have ordered from Welch recently, can you
>> share with me how you sent payment?
>> ????? Thanks -- Chappy rice? BN2
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
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From sneddon at xsmail.com  Tue Mar 10 11:27:16 2020
From: sneddon at xsmail.com (Andy Sneddon)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 17:27:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb Heatshield
In-Reply-To: <F4098405-F4AE-455A-BB95-708CE6501391@xsmail.com>
References: <F4098405-F4AE-455A-BB95-708CE6501391@xsmail.com>
Message-ID: <69131F60-F950-4794-B43E-030FD6A9B186@xsmail.com>

All,

 

  On the heatshield for the Tricarb, there are two holes which match up with where the cam on the throttle levers comes to rest.

 

  When I striped the carbs down there was a bolt head in each of these holes, which the cam came to rest upon, Hopefully as seen in the picture below.  However I can find no mention of these bolts in the parts list. ? are they meant to be there?.   ?.. and if not, why the hole? 

 

Andy

 

 

 

 

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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Mar 10 11:57:24 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 17:57:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
In-Reply-To: <f075aa1e-fb29-9fef-9793-5566fa9ff8e9@htcnet.org>
References: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
 <f075aa1e-fb29-9fef-9793-5566fa9ff8e9@htcnet.org>
Message-ID: <307533712.3261062.1583863044171@mail.yahoo.com>

I also ordered a head & parts from DW & paid with a MasterCard in 2017. No issues.Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: John Vrugtman <javrugtman at htcnet.org>
To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Mar 10, 2020 8:01 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch

Before Brexit, I ordered a head and parts from DW and paid with a visa.? 
Shipping was $280.? Of course this was 2015.

John
64/66 BJ8s


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From JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com  Tue Mar 10 13:22:51 2020
From: JimFrakes at frakes-eng.com (Jim Frakes)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 15:22:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?=5BSPAM_Detected=5D__RE=3A__Ordering_from_De?=
 =?utf-8?q?nis_Welch?=
In-Reply-To: <b1720b28-dc13-f146-11b2-95561c6ff943@comcast.net>
References: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
 <8d7047b8-185e-300c-48dd-7b571c12d062@chello.nl>
 <b1720b28-dc13-f146-11b2-95561c6ff943@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1a71c6a54b1c4e74962a9796bfdf14ee@S14.frakes-eng.com>

Yes, Kentucky (Blue Grass Austin Healey Club). Fine fellow, drives his red 100. 
Jim 

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2020 10:35 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch

I think Chappy is in the US, no?

That's a terrible policy; probably to try to dodge the 'markup' from the CC companies (what is it, 2 or 3% the CCs tack on?).  At any rate, I have to believe that much (most?) of their business comes from the US; they may lose more money than they're paying the CC companies.  FWIW, I ordered a (backordered) steering column from them a year or so ago and they took my Visa.

Bob


On 3/10/2020 12:37 AM, Kees Oudesluijs wrote:
> Most firms will accept Paypal.
>
> Very odd that you can only pay in $$ when paying by regular internet 
> banking.
>
> The $520 extra is an incredible amount. I have used Western Union in 
> the very distant past and also at that time they robbed you.
>
> The British banking system is archaic and very reluctant to go online. 
> There are always problems and complications (even when they were in 
> the EU) and huge costs paying from and to the UK unless you can pay by 
> credit card. They rob the public
>
> In the end Paypal is probably the cheapest (+ca. 3,5%) and you can pay 
> directly with GBP (however rates are not very favourable).
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 10-3-2020 om 07:41 schreef Charles Rice:
>> I ordered a head and related parts from Welch.  After a few weeks 
>> backorder they notified me yesterday that the shipment is ready.
>> I had thought I could pay with VISA, in fact I called VISA and they 
>> said it would be fine and there should be no charge for currency 
>> conversion.
>> But now Welch says they cannot accept my VISA, rather I must make a 
>> direct bank transfer to their "HSBC Bank" and it must be in Pound 
>> Sterling!
>> I checked with two local banks and they said online banking cannot 
>> send anything other than US Dollars -- my only option is Western 
>> Union and this would cost an additional $520!    Surely there is a 
>> better way -- those on the list that have ordered from Welch 
>> recently, can you share with me how you sent payment?
>>       Thanks -- Chappy rice  BN2
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual 
> donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Tue Mar 10 13:47:50 2020
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 19:47:50 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Auction for 100 6
In-Reply-To: <3213d1b8-e30c-5e7c-65d9-06d3be2d58fe@comcast.net>
References: <DM6PR10MB38989822A049C9183348A2ACFDFE0@DM6PR10MB3898.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <3213d1b8-e30c-5e7c-65d9-06d3be2d58fe@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <01a7d603-dbbf-c3b7-20c4-d75f82d8f3b5@summaventures.com>

Yup, needs a lot of TLC. Looks a lot better in the sun after a wash.

Peter

On 10/03/2020 03:29, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Ah ... has the rare and highly desirable reversed front wing side flash.
> 
> On 3/9/2020 2:51 PM, Don Anglesey wrote:
>> Decent looking 59' 100-6 if anyone looking.? No knowledge of car or
>> financial interest.
>> Don
>>
>> https://rhynaldsauction.hibid.com/catalog/203316/day--2---hultine-estate---hastings--ne/
>>
>> Sent from my Galaxy Tab? A
>> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/ghei36>
>>
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 10 14:08:21 2020
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 16:08:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb Heatshield
In-Reply-To: <69131F60-F950-4794-B43E-030FD6A9B186@xsmail.com>
References: <F4098405-F4AE-455A-BB95-708CE6501391@xsmail.com>
 <69131F60-F950-4794-B43E-030FD6A9B186@xsmail.com>
Message-ID: <0afa01d5f717$a6355840$f2a008c0$@gmail.com>

Andy:

 

I had a tri-carb a while back, and found a few pictures of the engine. My pictures show what appear to be something pressed- or welded in that the cams rest upon [see picture inserted below]. I don?t recall if they were actually pressed, bolt heads, or ???

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 



 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Andy Sneddon
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2020 1:27 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb Heatshield

 

All,

 

  On the heatshield for the Tricarb, there are two holes which match up with where the cam on the throttle levers comes to rest.

 

  When I striped the carbs down there was a bolt head in each of these holes, which the cam came to rest upon, Hopefully as seen in the picture below.  However I can find no mention of these bolts in the parts list. ? are they meant to be there?.   ?.. and if not, why the hole? 

 

Andy

 



 

 

 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Mar 10 15:35:50 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 10:35:50 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>

Here is one for the early 3000 owners.

I'm working on some corrections in the Concours Guidelines and trying to
get confirmation of something that is stated within them.

The Guidelines state "On the BN4, the front grille flash had the number "6"
in a circle cast into the badge following the "100". This badge may also
have been used on some of the first 340 BT7/BN7s produced in 1959".

This means that some of the first 3000's would could have had 100/6 badging
and, in the interests of accuracy, we need to have this confirmed.

When the 3000 was introduced there was a lot of razzmatazz and hoopla about
the "new and improved" engine.

Considering this from the perspective of a buyer of a new 3000 I can only
imagine that he/she would be incensed if the car was delivered with 100/6
badging!!

Does anyone out there have an early 3000 with original 100/6 badging?

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Committee.
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Tue Mar 10 15:53:36 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 08:53:36 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <008501d5f726$5a6edad0$0f4c9070$@tpg.com.au>

Hello Michael

 

For what is a very minor matter it is very interesting. Please pass on your findings.

 

I have been interested in when the hyphen went missing on the later front shroud badges and think I have probably looked at most of the Mk2 Roadsters and Mk2 Convertibles in Australia. My conclusion is that sometime during the transition from Roadster to Convertible the hyphen was deleted as most of the Roadsters have it, while none of the Convertibles do.

 

None of the aftermarket items today have the hyphen.

 

Hoo Roo

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

Ps. The BN3 has a 100 grille badge and not the 100/6 badge.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Wednesday, 11 March 2020 8:36 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.

 

Here is one for the early 3000 owners. 

I'm working on some corrections in the Concours Guidelines and trying to get confirmation of something that is stated within them. 

The Guidelines state "On the BN4, the front grille flash had the number "6" in a circle cast into the badge following the "100". This badge may also have been used on some of the first 340 BT7/BN7s produced in 1959".

This means that some of the first 3000's would could have had 100/6 badging and, in the interests of accuracy, we need to have this confirmed.

When the 3000 was introduced there was a lot of razzmatazz and hoopla about the "new and improved" engine.

Considering this from the perspective of a buyer of a new 3000 I can only imagine that he/she would be incensed if the car was delivered with 100/6 badging!! 

Does anyone out there have an early 3000 with original 100/6 badging?

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Committee.



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From satkinson1974 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 10 16:30:32 2020
From: satkinson1974 at gmail.com (Simon Atkinson)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 18:30:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DBBEA869-5AFD-46E2-A1E8-3F8540C50744@gmail.com>

Hi Michael,

I have a 59 BT7. Body #152 from March of 1959. It has 100/6 badging but we are currently in the middle of a complete restoration so all the original chrome is boxed up. I can dig out the emblems this weekend and email. 
Thanks,
Simon

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 10, 2020, at 5:36 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Here is one for the early 3000 owners.
> 
> I'm working on some corrections in the Concours Guidelines and trying to get confirmation of something that is stated within them.
> 
> The Guidelines state "On the BN4, the front grille flash had the number "6" in a circle cast into the badge following the "100". This badge may also have been used on some of the first 340 BT7/BN7s produced in 1959".
> 
> This means that some of the first 3000's would could have had 100/6 badging and, in the interests of accuracy, we need to have this confirmed.
> 
> When the 3000 was introduced there was a lot of razzmatazz and hoopla about the "new and improved" engine.
> 
> Considering this from the perspective of a buyer of a new 3000 I can only imagine that he/she would be incensed if the car was delivered with 100/6 badging!!
> 
> Does anyone out there have an early 3000 with original 100/6 badging?
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to read this.
> 
> Michael Salter
> 
> Concours Guidelines Committee.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/satkinson1974 at gmail.com
> 
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Tue Mar 10 18:39:30 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 00:39:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BN6PR15MB1698B36C058F8F9EA60A0FA3BFFC0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

My horn button is a 100/6 I think
I?m on the road until Monday but will take a photo for you.
I also think my BN7 is one of the first 10 built  if I try to connect the dots from docs of the 2 prior owners, both deceased. Legend has it they were built and shipped to San Francisco to race on the Calif road courses at the time. But I can?t prove that either.

Regards,
Richard C
BN7#440

On Mar 10, 2020, at 17:36, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

?

Here is one for the early 3000 owners.

I'm working on some corrections in the Concours Guidelines and trying to get confirmation of something that is stated within them.

The Guidelines state "On the BN4, the front grille flash had the number "6" in a circle cast into the badge following the "100". This badge may also have been used on some of the first 340 BT7/BN7s produced in 1959".

This means that some of the first 3000's would could have had 100/6 badging and, in the interests of accuracy, we need to have this confirmed.

When the 3000 was introduced there was a lot of razzmatazz and hoopla about the "new and improved" engine.

Considering this from the perspective of a buyer of a new 3000 I can only imagine that he/she would be incensed if the car was delivered with 100/6 badging!!

Does anyone out there have an early 3000 with original 100/6 badging?

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Committee.

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From jvwojcik at comcast.net  Tue Mar 10 18:54:45 2020
From: jvwojcik at comcast.net (Jim Wojcik)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 19:54:45 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <29df01d5f73f$a947e840$fbd7b8c0$@comcast.net>

Hi Michael. My former car, 1960-titled but produced in 1959- BN7434, had disc brakes, 3000 engine and manifolds, and 100-6 badging. Then I made it worse by adding the 3000 on the tail, but it definitely had a 100-6 badge on the grill and a 100-6 horn button. Confused me for a long time after I bought it in 1982. You can kind of see it here.  Jim Wojcik

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2020 4:36 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.

 

Here is one for the early 3000 owners. 

I'm working on some corrections in the Concours Guidelines and trying to get confirmation of something that is stated within them. 

The Guidelines state "On the BN4, the front grille flash had the number "6" in a circle cast into the badge following the "100". This badge may also have been used on some of the first 340 BT7/BN7s produced in 1959".

This means that some of the first 3000's would could have had 100/6 badging and, in the interests of accuracy, we need to have this confirmed.

When the 3000 was introduced there was a lot of razzmatazz and hoopla about the "new and improved" engine.

Considering this from the perspective of a buyer of a new 3000 I can only imagine that he/she would be incensed if the car was delivered with 100/6 badging!! 

Does anyone out there have an early 3000 with original 100/6 badging?

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Committee.

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Tue Mar 10 19:15:38 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 18:15:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
In-Reply-To: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
References: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
Message-ID: <bjeg6fdu026ro4iin95vooh75ra5rvc64m@4ax.com>

When I ordered my Denis Welch head, studs and gasket I used my Credit
card with no problem.  I would suggest that you call them and speak to
a human being there about this.  With any luck you might get someone
else than you got last time if you spoke with them rather than
converse by email.  Something is wrong.  My Mastercard doesn't charge
me extra for 'foreign' currencies.  Most credit cards don't.  You can
certainly charge in UK pounds on your card unless your card is unique.
Perhaps you happen to have one that hasn't gotten updated yet?  Denis
Welch's website shows the Visa and Mastercard logos on the first page.

-Roland
BN1 #724 now on the road

On Tue, 10 Mar 2020 01:41:04 -0500, you wrote:

>I ordered a head and related parts from Welch.  After a few weeks backorder
>they notified me yesterday that the shipment is ready.
>I had thought I could pay with VISA, in fact I called VISA and they said it
>would be fine and there should be no charge for currency conversion.
>But now Welch says they cannot accept my VISA, rather I must make a direct
>bank transfer to their "HSBC Bank" and it must be in Pound Sterling!
>I checked with two local banks and they said online banking cannot send
>anything other than US Dollars -- my only option is Western Union
>and this would cost an additional $520!    Surely there is a better way --
>those on the list that have ordered from Welch recently, can you
>share with me how you sent payment?
>     Thanks -- Chappy rice  BN2

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Tue Mar 10 19:36:48 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 01:36:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.
In-Reply-To: <008501d5f726$5a6edad0$0f4c9070$@tpg.com.au>
References: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>,
 <008501d5f726$5a6edad0$0f4c9070$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB14623CAD0588C02E203D82D2D1FC0@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Michael,
While I do no own a 3000, I have a 100-6 BN6 and cannot comment on what the owners will find, it appears that the factory did not bother themselves too much with that. Here is the proof, Publication 1733, a pamphlet advertising the new Austin Healey 3000 has two 100-6 in the photo. You can clearly see, under magnifying glass, that the flash on the grille of TYV818 is a 100-6, while the car in the foreground well, you cannot tell but the rear reflectors are of the bullet types, found only on the 100-6.
And here to make matter even more interesting, I also included Publication 1405 for the Austin Healey 100 Six and the cover photo has the extremely rare 100-6 with the door lock on the right side and the flash badge on the right hand side too, try to find one of these? Inside the pamphlet here is a car of the same colour as the one on the cover, in front of the same house, same people in the car although it appears that the guy parted his hair on the other side on the second photo and suddenly the steering wheel is on the other side, isn?t that amazing?

Jean
[cid:image001.jpg at 01D5F71B.9C83AAF0]
[cid:image005.jpg at 01D5F71B.9C83AAF0]
[cid:image009.jpg at 01D5F71B.9C83AAF0]


From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Wednesday, 11 March 2020 8:36 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.


Here is one for the early 3000 owners.

I'm working on some corrections in the Concours Guidelines and trying to get confirmation of something that is stated within them.

The Guidelines state "On the BN4, the front grille flash had the number "6" in a circle cast into the badge following the "100". This badge may also have been used on some of the first 340 BT7/BN7s produced in 1959".

This means that some of the first 3000's would could have had 100/6 badging and, in the interests of accuracy, we need to have this confirmed.

When the 3000 was introduced there was a lot of razzmatazz and hoopla about the "new and improved" engine.

Considering this from the perspective of a buyer of a new 3000 I can only imagine that he/she would be incensed if the car was delivered with 100/6 badging!!

Does anyone out there have an early 3000 with original 100/6 badging?

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Committee.


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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Mar 10 20:40:11 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 02:40:11 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.
Message-ID: <ccc991231e47a4705bfe225079f9effdae6c619c@webmail>

Folks- in order to interest the US buyer, BMC tried to show LHD cars
in their literature. Since they already had this stock photo for the
home market; they simply "flopped" (printing term) the picture to put
the steering wheel correct. They hoped you would not see the
incorrectly located badge or licence plate letters they obliterated.
They would read backward...so would the hair part.

	The change point from 100-6 to 3000 was in March 1959 at Chassis
BN4/77766 and BN6/4650 into 3000 chassis 101. I'm sure they had a box
of 100-6 badges and horn buttons on the line and, knowing the fugal
British, they kept installing them on grilles and steering wheels
"until the stock was exhausted" (USE). That terminology is in their
parts books. Who knows what cars originally got those items? Surmise
the March build date listed on your BLM certificate would be the best
indicator of badge overflow. Hank (healeyhelper.com)

	-----------------------------------------From: "Jean Caron" 
To: "Michael Salter", "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Tuesday March 10 2020 6:42:58PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.

	Michael, 

	While I do no own a 3000, I have a 100-6 BN6 and cannot comment on
what the owners will find, it appears that the factory did not bother
themselves too much with that. Here is the proof, Publication 1733, a
pamphlet advertising the new Austin Healey 3000 has two 100-6 in the
photo. You can clearly see, under magnifying glass, that the flash on
the grille of TYV818 is a 100-6, while the car in the foreground well,
you cannot tell but the rear reflectors are of the bullet types, found
only on the 100-6. 

	And here to make matter even more interesting, I also included
Publication 1405 for the Austin Healey 100 Six and the cover photo has
the extremely rare 100-6 with the door lock on the right side and the
flash badge on the right hand side too, try to find one of these?
Inside the pamphlet here is a car of the same colour as the one on the
cover, in front of the same house, same people in the car although it
appears that the guy parted his hair on the other side on the second
photo and suddenly the steering wheel is on the other side, isn?t
that amazing? 

	Jean 

	FROM: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] ON BEHALF OF
Michael Salter
 SENT: Wednesday, 11 March 2020 8:36 AM
 TO: healeys at autox.team.net
 SUBJECT: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging. 

	Here is one for the early 3000 owners.  

	I'm working on some corrections in the Concours Guidelines and trying
to get confirmation of something that is stated within them.  

	The Guidelines state "On the BN4, the front grille flash had the
number "6" in a circle cast into the badge following the "100". This
badge may also have been used on some of the first 340 BT7/BN7s
produced in 1959".  

	This means that some of the first 3000's would could have had 100/6
badging and, in the interests of accuracy, we need to have this
confirmed. 

	When the 3000 was introduced there was a lot of razzmatazz and hoopla
about the "new and improved" engine. 

	Considering this from the perspective of a buyer of a new 3000 I can
only imagine that he/she would be incensed if the car was delivered
with 100/6 badging!!  

	Does anyone out there have an early 3000 with original 100/6 badging?


	Thanks for taking the time to read this. 

	Michael Salter 

	Concours Guidelines Committee.     

	 [1]   

	This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Tue Mar 10 20:44:27 2020
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 22:44:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
In-Reply-To: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
References: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
Message-ID: <031c01d5f74e$fb572600$f2057200$@sympatico.ca>

Charles, I have never ordered from DW, but buy parts for my vintage MGs from
the UK all the time.  I find that direct deposit into the vendors bank
account in GBP works best.  My bank (in Canada) charges me $30 for the
privilege of doing this, and as you experienced, I can't so it on-line, I
have to go into the bank in person.  The tricky bit is that the payment
always goes through an intermediary bank in the UK, which also levies a
service charge, usually about 10 quid.  I have never understood this as I am
positive the bigger Canadian banks have London branches.  The thing to watch
out for is when you make the transfer, ask your bank to make sure that they
have included the intermediary bank charge.  I had a situation  where they
did not include it and the intermediary bank docked it from, the amount I
was transferring, thus shorting the vendor.  I had to do a second transfer
to make up the difference. My bank deferred the service charge for the
second transfer, but the intermediary bank didn't!

I prefer payment by VISA when I can, but check the exchange rate they are
using as it is usually terrible and on a big purchase makes a substantial
difference, which is why you are better off paying the bank service charges.


Similarly, PayPal charges a lot for large purchases in other currencies.

I have tried everything I can think of, including opening an account in the
UK, and opening an account with HSBC (a major UK bank) here in Canada as
they have branches near me, but one way or the other there are service
charges or dreadful exchange rates.

What I find laughable is that the service charges change with the amount of
the transfer.  Why?  Do they have to press the keyboard button harder for
bigger amounts?

I suggest going into your bank and doing a direct deposit to DW.  Also, on
larger purchases, I have found I can dicker with my bank (T-D) and they will
give me a slightly better rate, which basically pays for a couple of shots
of scotch, which I inevitably need after dealing with financial institutions
- they are all robbers.

Bonne Chance

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charles
Rice
Sent: March-10-20 2:41 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch

I ordered a head and related parts from Welch.  After a few weeks backorder
they notified me yesterday that the shipment is ready.
I had thought I could pay with VISA, in fact I called VISA and they said it
would be fine and there should be no charge for currency conversion.
But now Welch says they cannot accept my VISA, rather I must make a direct
bank transfer to their "HSBC Bank" and it must be in Pound Sterling!
I checked with two local banks and they said online banking cannot send
anything other than US Dollars -- my only option is Western Union
and this would cost an additional $520!    Surely there is a better way --
those on the list that have ordered from Welch recently, can you
share with me how you sent payment?
     Thanks -- Chappy rice  BN2





-- 
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Tue Mar 10 20:58:10 2020
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 22:58:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <033301d5f750$e658eed0$b30acc70$@sympatico.ca>

Hi Michael,  my BT7, manufactured in Oct ?59, HBT7L445129, has a 100-6 horn button.  I questioned  the previous owner on this when I bought the car in ?74, and he said it had it when he bought it in the summer of 1960 from a dealer on Bloor Street, Jim Ferguson.  I have heard this is not uncommon for early BT7s, but I have never heard or seen the same for grill badges.

 

Best,  Mirek

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: March-10-20 5:36 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.

 

Here is one for the early 3000 owners. 

I'm working on some corrections in the Concours Guidelines and trying to get confirmation of something that is stated within them. 

The Guidelines state "On the BN4, the front grille flash had the number "6" in a circle cast into the badge following the "100". This badge may also have been used on some of the first 340 BT7/BN7s produced in 1959".

This means that some of the first 3000's would could have had 100/6 badging and, in the interests of accuracy, we need to have this confirmed.

When the 3000 was introduced there was a lot of razzmatazz and hoopla about the "new and improved" engine.

Considering this from the perspective of a buyer of a new 3000 I can only imagine that he/she would be incensed if the car was delivered with 100/6 badging!! 

Does anyone out there have an early 3000 with original 100/6 badging?

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Michael Salter

Concours Guidelines Committee.

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue Mar 10 22:56:26 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 21:56:26 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
In-Reply-To: <efda84bf-66f3-5653-f7a4-06085c1df64c@summaventures.com>
References: <000001d5f6a6$df18dbd0$9d4a9370$@glasgow-ky.com>
 <efda84bf-66f3-5653-f7a4-06085c1df64c@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <000001d5f761$6c38fc60$44aaf520$@sbcglobal.net>

Peter,

 

I have not done any bank wire transfers to England but here is the
information your bank will need to initiate a wire transfer:

 


PRIMARY BANK INFORMATION

RECEIVING BANK INFORMATION


TAX ID

Could be optional


BANK NAME

	

ACCOUNT NUMBER

	

ACCOUNT TYPE

Could be optional


ADDRESS BANK

	

BRANCH NAME

	

CITY

	

COUNTRY

	

SWIFT CODE

Mandatory although your bank may have this.

 

DW should be able to provide all of the information in the receiving bank
column.

 

My bank charges a $20 fee and the wire goes through Mellon Bank back east
and they charge a $25 fee for a total of $45.

 

John

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Peter
Dzwig
Sent: Tuesday, March 10, 2020 7:31 AM
To: 'healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch

 

I am very surprised by this. There must be a reason why DW won't accept such
a large paymemt, perhaps the issue is with Visa.

 

Just to put things straight - well a bit :-) As someone in the UK who has
had to receive payments from US, the biggest problem has always been at the
US end. Many smaller US banks simply don't want/can't be bothered/don't know
how to deal with international inter-bank transfers.

It was usually a question of going back to the US bank with the correct
SWIFT/IBAN number and just telling them to get on with it! I had one client
who had to go to his bank four times before the bank finally go their act
together.

 

The bit about $-only is also untrue: I was being paid in Euro. If I want to
buy something or pay a bill in France (say) all I do is do make the transfer
on-line; or I call the bank in either case the transaction is completed,
generally within an hour certainly within a day.

 

Payment in GBP isn't really surprising, after all how many US suppliers
would want to accept GBP direct into their account? :-)

 

Paypal isn't that common here, I agree. Since HSBC is one of the largest
banks in the world I would be surprised if they can't accept it. It may be
that DW doesn't want to deal with it.

 

One of the issues with Paypal has been traceability and guarantees. From a
supplier's point of view bank-to-bank transfers offer traceability and since
they are (a) a guarantee by yours bank to the supplier's bank that you have
the wherewithall to pay; and (b) a guarantee by your bank that the transfer
will be made offer both you and (say) DW are much better for the supplier.
It has a final benefit, that of traceability: the supplier can see where the
payment is coming from and lets all sides deal with any issues.

 

Hope this is of some help,

 

Peter

 

 

 

On 10/03/2020 06:41, Charles Rice wrote:

> I ordered a head and related parts from Welch.  After a few weeks 

> backorder they notified me yesterday that the shipment is ready.

> I had thought I could pay with VISA, in fact I called VISA and they 

> said it would be fine and there should be no charge for currency
conversion.

> But now Welch says they cannot accept my VISA, rather I must make a 

> direct bank transfer to their "HSBC Bank" and it must be in Pound
Sterling!

> I checked with two local banks and they said online banking cannot 

> send anything other than US Dollars -- my only option is Western Union

> and this would cost an additional $520!    Surely there is a better way --

> those on the list that have ordered from Welch recently, can you share 

> with me how you sent payment?

>      Thanks -- Chappy rice  BN2

> 

> 

> 

> 

> 

 

-- 

 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

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http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

 

Archive:  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
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From ed.reiss at hotmail.com  Wed Mar 11 00:15:48 2020
From: ed.reiss at hotmail.com (Ed Reiss)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 06:15:48 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welsh
Message-ID: <SN2PR0801MB2286B538A3B1C0C815B81E2B9EFC0@SN2PR0801MB2286.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

Perhaps the recent problems with ordering from England using a credit card are due to Britain exiting the EU (BREXIT). International banking rules are established by covenants between the various countries - such as USA with the EU. Since Britain is no longer a member those covenants no longer apply and, in all probability, ones between the USA and Britain have not yet been fianlized.
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From ampole at hotmail.com  Wed Mar 11 01:33:45 2020
From: ampole at hotmail.com (andy pole)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 07:33:45 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welsh
In-Reply-To: <SN2PR0801MB2286B538A3B1C0C815B81E2B9EFC0@SN2PR0801MB2286.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN2PR0801MB2286B538A3B1C0C815B81E2B9EFC0@SN2PR0801MB2286.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <AM6PR01MB53673F641B3E1287EE9686F8D5FC0@AM6PR01MB5367.eurprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

Ed, we are still in the EU until the end of the year!

Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Ed Reiss <ed.reiss at hotmail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2020 6:15:48 AM
To: Healey list <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welsh

Perhaps the recent problems with ordering from England using a credit card are due to Britain exiting the EU (BREXIT). International banking rules are established by covenants between the various countries - such as USA with the EU. Since Britain is no longer a member those covenants no longer apply and, in all probability, ones between the USA and Britain have not yet been fianlized.
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Wed Mar 11 03:47:54 2020
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 09:47:54 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3135dd0a-75b3-4d0f-25bf-f4a2277362b8@summaventures.com>

Michael,

see: http://www.healeysix.net/BN7%20%26%20BT7.htm
<http://www.healeysix.net/BN7%20%26%20BT7.htm>

Peter Dzwig

On 10/03/2020 21:35, Michael Salter wrote:
> Here is one for the early 3000 owners.
> 
> I'm working on some corrections in the Concours Guidelines and trying to
> get confirmation of something that is stated within them.
> 
> The Guidelines state "On the BN4, the front grille flash had the number
> "6" in a circle cast into the badge following the "100". This badge may
> also have been used on some of the first 340 BT7/BN7s produced in 1959".
> 
> This means that some of the first 3000's would could have had 100/6
> badging and, in the interests of accuracy, we need to have this confirmed.
> 
> When the 3000 was introduced there was a lot of razzmatazz and hoopla
> about the "new and improved" engine.
> 
> Considering this from the perspective of a buyer of a new 3000 I can
> only imagine that he/she would be incensed if the car was delivered with
> 100/6 badging!!
> 
> Does anyone out there have an early 3000 with original 100/6 badging?
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to read this.
> 
> Michael Salter
> 
> Concours Guidelines Committee.
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From bjcap at optonline.net  Wed Mar 11 05:42:09 2020
From: bjcap at optonline.net (phillips)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 07:42:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging
Message-ID: <382762746.627878.1583926929647@mymail.optimum.net>

Michael ,

I had one in the shop many years ago

'59 3000 BT7 ,100-6 badging on front grill

100-6 horn push

thermo carb with switch under dash at steering column support

California export in USA

Carroll Phillips

Top Down Restorations
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From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Mar 11 07:04:22 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 13:04:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging
References: <308254345.3687065.1583931862370.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <308254345.3687065.1583931862370@mail.yahoo.com>

I thought all 6 cylinder Healeys with adjustable steering wheels had to same horn button with the "6" in the lightning bolt flash? I am less familiar with the non-adjustable wheels.Gary?



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From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Wed Mar 11 10:00:16 2020
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 12:00:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.
In-Reply-To: <3135dd0a-75b3-4d0f-25bf-f4a2277362b8@summaventures.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <3135dd0a-75b3-4d0f-25bf-f4a2277362b8@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <43450310-476A-48E1-90BE-764C9261E391@gmail.com>

My 59 BT7, car $3228 has a 100/6 logo in the trafficator.

> On Mar 11, 2020, at 5:47 AM, Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com> wrote:
> 
> Michael,
> 
> see: http://www.healeysix.net/BN7%20%26%20BT7.htm
> <http://www.healeysix.net/BN7%20%26%20BT7.htm>
> 
> Peter Dzwig
> 
> On 10/03/2020 21:35, Michael Salter wrote:
>> Here is one for the early 3000 owners.
>> 
>> I'm working on some corrections in the Concours Guidelines and trying to
>> get confirmation of something that is stated within them.
>> 
>> The Guidelines state "On the BN4, the front grille flash had the number
>> "6" in a circle cast into the badge following the "100". This badge may
>> also have been used on some of the first 340 BT7/BN7s produced in 1959".
>> 
>> This means that some of the first 3000's would could have had 100/6
>> badging and, in the interests of accuracy, we need to have this confirmed.
>> 
>> When the 3000 was introduced there was a lot of razzmatazz and hoopla
>> about the "new and improved" engine.
>> 
>> Considering this from the perspective of a buyer of a new 3000 I can
>> only imagine that he/she would be incensed if the car was delivered with
>> 100/6 badging!!
>> 
>> Does anyone out there have an early 3000 with original 100/6 badging?
>> 
>> Thanks for taking the time to read this.
>> 
>> Michael Salter
>> 
>> Concours Guidelines Committee.
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
>> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> Dr. Peter Dzwig
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
> 


From ynotink at msn.com  Wed Mar 11 10:03:02 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 16:03:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging
In-Reply-To: <308254345.3687065.1583931862370@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <308254345.3687065.1583931862370.ref@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <308254345.3687065.1583931862370@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB3432F85255B5E06691C8F04BA5FC0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Looks like the horn/directional switch has been replaced with a piece of wood (attractive, but not concourse) probably needs a new switch.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2020 1:04 PM
To: bjcap at optonline.net <bjcap at optonline.net>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging

I thought all 6 cylinder Healeys with adjustable steering wheels had to same horn button with the "6" in the lightning bolt flash? I am less familiar with the non-adjustable wheels.
Gary



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From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Mar 11 11:57:12 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 17:57:12 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd:  Early 100-6 badging
In-Reply-To: <762454974.3948572.1583949403462@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <762454974.3948572.1583949403462.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <762454974.3948572.1583949403462@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <170457145.3936714.1583949432435@mail.yahoo.com>




-----Original Message-----
From: warthodson <warthodson at aol.com>
To: healeyguy <healeyguy at aol.com>
Sent: Wed, Mar 11, 2020 12:56 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging

My question was specifically about the "6" on the horn push button of the 6 cylinder cars with adjustable steering wheels. Or the lack of a "6" on the horn push button. Do any of the concours guidelines address this? To ask it differently, was there ever an original horn push button on a 6 cylinder car with an adjustable steering wheel that did not have the "6" in the lightning bolt flash?Gary Hodson?


-----Original Message-----
From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>
Sent: Wed, Mar 11, 2020 11:24 am
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging

#yiv3670867652 -- filtered {}#yiv3670867652 filtered {}#yiv3670867652 p.yiv3670867652MsoNormal, #yiv3670867652 li.yiv3670867652MsoNormal, #yiv3670867652 div.yiv3670867652MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv3670867652 a:link, #yiv3670867652 span.yiv3670867652MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv3670867652 .yiv3670867652MsoChpDefault {}#yiv3670867652 filtered {}#yiv3670867652 div.yiv3670867652WordSection1 {}#yiv3670867652 GaryEarly 6 cylinder cars had a different horn button/trafficator switch. Although not a great one, the Moss catalog shows the different parts.? I thought I had photos available to show the differences but I could find them.Perry ?Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ?From: warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2020 9:04 AM
To: bjcap at optonline.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging ?I thought all 6 cylinder Healeys with adjustable steering wheels had to same horn button with the "6" in the lightning bolt flash? I am less familiar with the non-adjustable wheels. Gary?

 ? ?
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Mar 11 12:54:59 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 07:54:59 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Early 100-6 badging
In-Reply-To: <170457145.3936714.1583949432435@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <762454974.3948572.1583949403462.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <762454974.3948572.1583949403462@mail.yahoo.com>
 <170457145.3936714.1583949432435@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+_HUgp+agKdS6o-P4a3eTKgg_QsPcMYusz2t1zEuMMcw@mail.gmail.com>

There seems to be some confusion regarding these horn buttons.
Talking about the adjustable type ONLY.
The type referred to as 100/6 has the number "100" superimposed on a flash
with a very small "6" to the right of the "100".
The 3000 models had only the tiny "6".and the flash.

Hope that helps.

M


On Thu, Mar 12, 2020, 6:57 AM warthodson--- via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: warthodson <warthodson at aol.com>
> To: healeyguy <healeyguy at aol.com>
> Sent: Wed, Mar 11, 2020 12:56 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging
>
> My question was specifically about the "6" on the horn push button of the
> 6 cylinder cars with adjustable steering wheels. Or the lack of a "6" on
> the horn push button. Do any of the concours guidelines address this? To
> ask it differently, was there ever an original horn push button on a 6
> cylinder car with an adjustable steering wheel that did not have the "6" in
> the lightning bolt flash?
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
> To: warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>
> Sent: Wed, Mar 11, 2020 11:24 am
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging
>
> Gary
> Early 6 cylinder cars had a different horn button/trafficator switch.
> Although not a great one, the Moss catalog shows the different parts.  I
> thought I had photos available to show the differences but I could find
> them.
> Perry
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Wednesday, March 11, 2020 9:04 AM
> *To: *bjcap at optonline.net; healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging
>
> I thought all 6 cylinder Healeys with adjustable steering wheels had to
> same horn button with the "6" in the lightning bolt flash? I am less
> familiar with the non-adjustable wheels.
> Gary
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Mar 11 13:30:25 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 12:30:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Bobs
Message-ID: <586c5944-acd9-26a0-d4d9-28093060cc90@comcast.net>

Ha ...
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From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Mar 11 15:43:27 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 21:43:27 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fwd: Early 100-6 badging
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+_HUgp+agKdS6o-P4a3eTKgg_QsPcMYusz2t1zEuMMcw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <762454974.3948572.1583949403462.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <762454974.3948572.1583949403462@mail.yahoo.com>
 <170457145.3936714.1583949432435@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAB3i7L+_HUgp+agKdS6o-P4a3eTKgg_QsPcMYusz2t1zEuMMcw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <362244923.4104386.1583963007757@mail.yahoo.com>

Michael,Thanks, That is the clarification I was looking for!
?Gary

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: warthodson <warthodson at aol.com>
Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Mar 11, 2020 1:57 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fwd: Early 100-6 badging

There seems to be some confusion regarding these horn buttons.??Talking about the adjustable type ONLY.The type referred to as 100/6 has the number "100" superimposed on a flash with a very small "6" to the right of the "100".The 3000 models had only the tiny "6".and the flash.
Hope that?helps.
M


On Thu, Mar 12, 2020, 6:57 AM warthodson--- via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:




-----Original Message-----
From: warthodson <warthodson at aol.com>
To: healeyguy <healeyguy at aol.com>
Sent: Wed, Mar 11, 2020 12:56 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging

My question was specifically about the "6" on the horn push button of the 6 cylinder cars with adjustable steering wheels. Or the lack of a "6" on the horn push button. Do any of the concours guidelines address this? To ask it differently, was there ever an original horn push button on a 6 cylinder car with an adjustable steering wheel that did not have the "6" in the lightning bolt flash?Gary Hodson?


-----Original Message-----
From: Perry <healeyguy at aol.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com <warthodson at aol.com>
Sent: Wed, Mar 11, 2020 11:24 am
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging

GaryEarly 6 cylinder cars had a different horn button/trafficator switch. Although not a great one, the Moss catalog shows the different parts.? I thought I had photos available to show the differences but I could find them.Perry ?Sent from Mail for Windows 10 ?From: warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2020 9:04 AM
To: bjcap at optonline.net; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Early 100-6 badging ?I thought all 6 cylinder Healeys with adjustable steering wheels had to same horn button with the "6" in the lightning bolt flash? I am less familiar with the non-adjustable wheels. Gary?

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From watterbury at yahoo.com  Wed Mar 11 16:54:22 2020
From: watterbury at yahoo.com (William Atterbury)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 22:54:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Fw: Bolt Head for the Tricarb
In-Reply-To: <982762230.7520203.1583883183923@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <982762230.7520203.1583883183923.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <982762230.7520203.1583883183923@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <805790065.500132.1583967263339@mail.yahoo.com>

 Hey Andy,

Here is what I've got on my Tricarb.? Don't know that it is period correct, but no reason to believe that it is not.
Cheers!Bill Atterbury



Message: 11
Date: Tue, 10 Mar 2020 17:27:16 +0000
From: Andy Sneddon <sneddon at xsmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Tri-carb Heatshield
Message-ID: <69131F60-F950-4794-B43E-030FD6A9B186 at xsmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

All,



? On the heatshield for the Tricarb, there are two holes which match up with where the cam on the throttle levers comes to rest.



? When I striped the carbs down there was a bolt head in each of these holes, which the cam came to rest upon, Hopefully as seen in the picture below.? However I can find no mention of these bolts in the parts list. ? are they meant to be there?.? ?.. and if not, why the hole?



Andy


  
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Wed Mar 11 16:55:35 2020
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 15:55:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment
In-Reply-To: <a825f4639a06deda04afa8d8369d1644a46da2c3@webmail>
References: <a825f4639a06deda04afa8d8369d1644a46da2c3@webmail>
Message-ID: <2cad01d5f7f8$2e9f0060$8bdd0120$@roadrunner.com>

I thought the hood scoop on Mal?s car was work of art.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of gradea1 at charter.net
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2020 8:32 PM
To: 'Jon Doherty' <jpd64 at yahoo.com>
Cc: 'healeys at autox.team.net' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

Jon- I'm pretty sure this is Mal Doherty's beautiful black 100.  I knew Mal and he attended a number of our Pacific Centre events in the early days with his (also) beautiful wife. They were a wonderful couple and yes, he was a great Healey innovator.

If I'm correct, I met you, with the car, at the Monterey event in 2017 at the Pacific Grove downtown show. (I couldn't view the picture you attached)

I do remember that was the first Healey Bra I ever saw, and it was on his car-custom made. Mal's car always won popular vote. Best  Regards, Hank Leach (healeyhelper.com)

-----------------------------------------

From: "Jon Doherty via Healeys" 
To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Perry"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> "
Sent: Friday March 6 2020 6:58:39PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

Hi Gentlemen,

 

I'm extremely new to this email list so hope I sent the message correctly to all interested, but I own a 55 BN1 fitted with a steering box damper which I inherited from my grandfather.  I myself am a novice mechanic but it's not a stretch to say my grandfather was a master Healey technician.  He rebuilt his car from the ground up in the mid 50s after he bought it and competed in concourse competition as well as raced slalom/autocross competitively with the car in the late 50s and early 60s.  He added the steering box damper in 1957.  I was told it provided improved handling.  As you may know, slalom courses have extreme handling requirements.  I can only assume he knew what he was talking about in regard to the improved handling since he was the Southern California slalom champion for five years between 1957-62.  Hope this sheds some light on the subject.

 

Jon

 

On Friday, March 6, 2020, 06:32:53 PM PST, Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote: 

 

 

Yes 

The car was sold today on BAT.  The seller was Fantasy Junction. I think it brought a bit over 40K

P

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <mailto:ynotink at msn.com> 
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 9:20 PM
To: Perry via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

Is this the car on BAT? Things like this might explain its low bidding price. 



From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of Perry via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2020 1:09:54 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment 

 

I would say yes and a control valve assembly and other stuff. I could not find the BJ8 Michael mentioned on the Fantasy Junction website to look for additional info on the car in question. 

P

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: Bob Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> 
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:38 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

You'd need a pump and couple hydraulic hoses, no?

On 3/6/2020 4:31 PM, Perry via Healeys wrote:

Are we sure its not a power steering assist ram like used on the 1963-65 Corvette? Just a thought?.

Perry

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: Bob Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> 
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 7:00 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

Maybe someone thought it would cure scuttle shake?

On 3/6/2020 3:28 PM, alfuller194 at gmail.com <mailto:alfuller194 at gmail.com>  wrote:

I?ve seen it [and had it] on 4x4 trucks that were lifted ? typically 3-4? or more ? but never on a vehicle as low as a Healey. I can?t imagine why a Healey would need or benefit from a steering dampener [unless maybe to compensate for a LOT o slop in the steering, but sheesh!].

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

From: Healeys  <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 5:20 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Healeys] Odd steering attachment

 

 

 

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Mar 11 17:54:22 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 12:54:22 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Early 3000 badging.
In-Reply-To: <43450310-476A-48E1-90BE-764C9261E391@gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+9Vdhog3GEqOLLwyw1RVc7rddoPS0P9rwFZ7zXubsKZQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <3135dd0a-75b3-4d0f-25bf-f4a2277362b8@summaventures.com>
 <43450310-476A-48E1-90BE-764C9261E391@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+kuXyKXduBziC8Pt5VpgXHGbqnrNKywvqu9aaSp1h9kg@mail.gmail.com>

Many thanks to all who responded to my request for information on 3000 /
100/6 badging.
It seems to be conclusive that many early 3000's were fitted with 100/6
grille badges and no 3000 badge on the boot lid.
I will update the Concours Guidelines to include the received information.

M

On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 5:00 AM Team.net <lawrence.swift at gmail.com> wrote:

> My 59 BT7, car $3228 has a 100/6 logo in the trafficator.
>
> > On Mar 11, 2020, at 5:47 AM, Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > Michael,
> >
> > see: http://www.healeysix.net/BN7%20%26%20BT7.htm
> > <http://www.healeysix.net/BN7%20%26%20BT7.htm>
> >
> > Peter Dzwig
> >
> > On 10/03/2020 21:35, Michael Salter wrote:
> >> Here is one for the early 3000 owners.
> >>
> >> I'm working on some corrections in the Concours Guidelines and trying to
> >> get confirmation of something that is stated within them.
> >>
> >> The Guidelines state "On the BN4, the front grille flash had the number
> >> "6" in a circle cast into the badge following the "100". This badge may
> >> also have been used on some of the first 340 BT7/BN7s produced in 1959".
> >>
> >> This means that some of the first 3000's would could have had 100/6
> >> badging and, in the interests of accuracy, we need to have this
> confirmed.
> >>
> >> When the 3000 was introduced there was a lot of razzmatazz and hoopla
> >> about the "new and improved" engine.
> >>
> >> Considering this from the perspective of a buyer of a new 3000 I can
> >> only imagine that he/she would be incensed if the car was delivered with
> >> 100/6 badging!!
> >>
> >> Does anyone out there have an early 3000 with original 100/6 badging?
> >>
> >> Thanks for taking the time to read this.
> >>
> >> Michael Salter
> >>
> >> Concours Guidelines Committee.
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >>
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> >>
> >
> > --
> >
> > Dr. Peter Dzwig
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
> >
>
>
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Wed Mar 11 18:48:01 2020
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (Mirek Sharp)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 20:48:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welsh
In-Reply-To: <SN2PR0801MB2286B538A3B1C0C815B81E2B9EFC0@SN2PR0801MB2286.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN2PR0801MB2286B538A3B1C0C815B81E2B9EFC0@SN2PR0801MB2286.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <03b801d5f807$e2600220$a7200660$@sympatico.ca>

The EU is not and never was a country, and the UK (thankfully) never
acquiesced to the Euro.  My understanding is that banking arrangements are
between banks, we each respecting their own countries laws.   Neither the EU
nor Brexit has anything to do with it.

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ed Reiss
Sent: March-11-20 2:16 AM
To: Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Ordering from Dennis Welsh

 

Perhaps the recent problems with ordering from England using a credit card
are due to Britain exiting the EU (BREXIT). International banking rules are
established by covenants between the various countries - such as USA with
the EU. Since Britain is no longer a member those covenants no longer apply
and, in all probability, ones between the USA and Britain have not yet been
fianlized.

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Mar 11 22:14:25 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 11 Mar 2020 21:14:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] BaT
Message-ID: <aad27590-85ee-8dce-03b6-b48d586a1466@comcast.net>

You heard it here first (hopefully, it's not behind a paywall):

https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/05/business/bring-a-trailer-classic-car-auctions.html?action=click&module=Features&pgtype=Homepage

From healeyrik at gmail.com  Wed Mar 11 23:35:17 2020
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 01:35:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] BaT
In-Reply-To: <aad27590-85ee-8dce-03b6-b48d586a1466@comcast.net>
References: <aad27590-85ee-8dce-03b6-b48d586a1466@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZeP0+Z25=zXzk8xAM8OsnD7so5NbyF-CkSCFWe5L6P_6w@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks, Bob.  That was a good read.

Rick Neville

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On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 12:15 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> You heard it here first (hopefully, it's not behind a paywall):
>
>
> https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/05/business/bring-a-trailer-classic-car-auctions.html?action=click&module=Features&pgtype=Homepage
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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From ericmetzner at gmx.de  Thu Mar 12 08:41:52 2020
From: ericmetzner at gmx.de (Eric Metzner)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 15:41:52 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Long bolt BN1 remote control housing
Message-ID: <0503E0A4-2D14-41B1-9117-9731523C4ABD@gmx.de>

Dear BN1 specialists,
I m wondering where the long bolt at the remote control housing at the BN1 gearbox goes to? Any hint would appreciated before I mess up my housing.
BR
Eric
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Von meinem iPhone gesendet

From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Thu Mar 12 08:42:46 2020
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 07:42:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] BaT
In-Reply-To: <CAGfzsZeP0+Z25=zXzk8xAM8OsnD7so5NbyF-CkSCFWe5L6P_6w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <aad27590-85ee-8dce-03b6-b48d586a1466@comcast.net>
 <CAGfzsZeP0+Z25=zXzk8xAM8OsnD7so5NbyF-CkSCFWe5L6P_6w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <38b301d5f87c$80796450$816c2cf0$@roadrunner.com>

Agreed.  Thanks for sharing.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of HealeyRick
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2020 10:35 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] BaT

 

Thanks, Bob.  That was a good read.

 

Rick Neville

 


 <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon> 

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On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 12:15 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> > wrote:

You heard it here first (hopefully, it's not behind a paywall):

https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/05/business/bring-a-trailer-classic-car-auctions.html?action=click <https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/05/business/bring-a-trailer-classic-car-auctions.html?action=click&module=Features&pgtype=Homepage> &module=Features&pgtype=Homepage
_______________________________________________
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Thu Mar 12 10:12:22 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 16:12:22 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
Message-ID: <e4f8a348-2a99-4985-b5c5-468d1051c401@me.com>

Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head. If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.
???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.?
???So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.?
???I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.?
???I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.


Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Thu Mar 12 10:15:56 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 16:15:56 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!, B section
Message-ID: <0a57c9c9-39b2-45ea-93f8-d5bb8237238e@me.com>

I could send three photos in one email, so here's the photo of the cylinders with fluid. They all drained evenly and very slowly, leading me to believe there's no hole in a piston or broken rings.?
???Thanks for taking a look and thanks in advance for suggestions, laughs, head scratching or anything else you might offer.?
Steven Kingsbury
Still searching for the problem!

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu Mar 12 10:52:46 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 16:52:46 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Long bolt BN1 remote control housing
Message-ID: <c9f57643e1d36bd4fb2e48dba99dc1aa878820c2@webmail>

Actually there are 5 long bolts, setscrews (2K3109) that secure the
control (9) to the side cover ((7) and one stud on the left-middle for
a nut/spring washer... there is one short one (2K3097) on
right-middle.. the parts book is incorrect listing the long for the
short. Three setscrews (2K3094) on the left, then additionally hold
the cover to the box. See diagram. Remember the two gaskets and use
sealant each side or they will leak.

	Hank, healeyhelper.com

	-----------------------------------------From: "Eric Metzner" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 7:42:44AM
Subject: [Healeys] Long bolt BN1 remote control housing

Dear BN1 specialists,
 I m wondering where the long bolt at the remote control housing at
the BN1 gearbox goes to? Any hint would appreciated before I mess up
my housing.
 BR
 Eric

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Thu Mar 12 11:06:50 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 17:06:50 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
Message-ID: <d25a094c8066c7917578489c1f2e4ae1a5eb075a@webmail>

Hi Steven-good to hear from you!

	That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between
2-3 and have it shaved flat...could be a head gasket leak due to
warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

	Also, I don't recommend NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of
carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet
rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

	Regards, Hank Leach

	-----------------------------------------From: "Steven Kingsbury via
Healeys" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!

Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head. If you
remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only
25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to
find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such
luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no
cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into
the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons
smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and
good. So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and
filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it
would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours
later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even
in their fluid retention.  So then I rotated the crank to get all the
pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the
cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster
than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and
evenly in each cylinder.  I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking
the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines
and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what
he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help.
Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and
can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I
was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be
obvious.  I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the
side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I
said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something
wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I
can't.
Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on
number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or
visible damage.And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion
chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.
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From ericmetzner at gmx.de  Thu Mar 12 13:27:20 2020
From: ericmetzner at gmx.de (Eric Metzner)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 20:27:20 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Long bolt BN1 remote control housing
In-Reply-To: <c9f57643e1d36bd4fb2e48dba99dc1aa878820c2@webmail>
References: <c9f57643e1d36bd4fb2e48dba99dc1aa878820c2@webmail>
Message-ID: <377226FE-DACD-4F51-BD0D-BDE24E39C1C7@gmx.de>

Oh, I?m a donut, just trusted the spare parts list without having a close look to what?s in front of me. Ordered a long bolt from an German Healey parts supplier - so they also do not know that there is a mislead.
Hank, do you now how long the ?short? setscrew is?
Related to the gaskets I normally use permatex Aviation 3h on both sides - do you think that will work - it?s the first time I?m doing a BN1 gearbox ?
Thanks a lot in advance
best regards 
Eric

Von meinem iPad gesendet

> Am 12.03.2020 um 17:52 schrieb gradea1 at charter.net:
> 
> Actually there are 5 long bolts, setscrews (2K3109) that secure the control (9) to the side cover ((7) and one stud on the left-middle for a nut/spring washer... there is one short one (2K3097) on right-middle... the parts book is incorrect listing the long for the short. Three setscrews  (2K3094) on the left, then additionally hold the cover to the box.  See diagram. Remember the two gaskets and use sealant each side or they will leak.
> Hank, healeyhelper.com
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "Eric Metzner" 
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Cc: 
> Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 7:42:44AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Long bolt BN1 remote control housing
> 
> Dear BN1 specialists,
> I m wondering where the long bolt at the remote control housing at the BN1 gearbox goes to? Any hint would appreciated before I mess up my housing.
> BR
> Eric
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From ah100register at gmail.com  Thu Mar 12 13:38:10 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 19:38:10 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <d25a094c8066c7917578489c1f2e4ae1a5eb075a@webmail>
References: <d25a094c8066c7917578489c1f2e4ae1a5eb075a@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAL1OyxcNXkeb0-wgoqf1+wL2ZVkhvTbfo7S6Q=Dnpmfv6zUC4w@mail.gmail.com>

Hank

The fact that number 2 exhaust valve is not the same colour as the others
might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking
for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost  clearance. A partially
seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but
it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any
burning on the working face.

Best regards

On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

> Hi Steven-good to hear from you!
>
> That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3
> and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped
> head...especially if valves and rings checked good.
>
> Also, I don't recommend  NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of
> carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods
> bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.
>
> Regards, Hank Leach
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
> To: healeys at autox.teamnet
> Cc:
> Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>
> Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I
> had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in
> cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem
> with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than
> number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it
> looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls
> smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on
> the top, but other than that and good.
>    So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled
> the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out.
> Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than
> evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.
>    So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even
> position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick
> leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally
> drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.
>    I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an
> old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in
> the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me
> some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a
> magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not
> there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference,
> something would be obvious.
>    I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect
> all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit
> perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some
> photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.
>
> [image: IMG_20200311_143602.jpg]
> Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number
> two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
> [image: IMG_20200311_172123.jpg]
> And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain
> out and just sat there.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Thu Mar 12 17:29:09 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 23:29:09 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
Message-ID: <7215b72b-f257-4926-962d-1c03ef7fdd55@me.com>

Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.
???I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.?
???I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
???Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
???Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun project.
Steven Kingsbury
? ??

On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:


Hank


The fact that number 2 exhaust valve?is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost? clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.


Best regards


On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

Hi Steven-good to hear from you!

That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend? NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach






-----------------------------------------

From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
To: healeys at autox.teamnet
Cc:
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!


Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.
???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.?
???So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.?
???I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.?
???I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.


Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.




_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com






--

Best wishes


John Harper


AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu Mar 12 17:32:48 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 23:32:48 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <7215b72b-f257-4926-962d-1c03ef7fdd55@me.com>
References: <7215b72b-f257-4926-962d-1c03ef7fdd55@me.com>
Message-ID: <1916811454.1055698.1584055968840@mail.yahoo.com>

 Not honing the cylinders?? While it's apart, how old is the clutch?? Rocker assembly?? Thrust rings?? Seals. front and rear, etc., etc.

Mike MacLean

    On Thursday, March 12, 2020, 4:29:26 PM PDT, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.???I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.????I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.???Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.???Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun project.Steven Kingsbury? ??
On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:


Hank
The fact that number 2 exhaust valve?is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost? clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.
Best regards
On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

Hi Steven-good to hear from you!
That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend? NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach




-----------------------------------------
From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" 
To: healeys at autox.teamnet
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!

Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.????So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.????I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.????I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.
Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.


_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation? $12.75
 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
 
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
 



-- 
Best wishes
John Harper
AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Thu Mar 12 17:40:20 2020
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 23:40:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <CAL1OyxcNXkeb0-wgoqf1+wL2ZVkhvTbfo7S6Q=Dnpmfv6zUC4w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d25a094c8066c7917578489c1f2e4ae1a5eb075a@webmail>
 <CAL1OyxcNXkeb0-wgoqf1+wL2ZVkhvTbfo7S6Q=Dnpmfv6zUC4w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <125751696.2696626.1584056420748@mail.yahoo.com>

so a dollar short and a day late ...doing a "leak-down" test before pulling the head would have helped give more information ...
google "leak down test" for more info
Jim

    On Thursday, March 12, 2020, 7:38:38 PM UTC, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Hank
The fact that number 2 exhaust valve?is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost? clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.
Best regards
On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

Hi Steven-good to hear from you!
That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend? NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach



-----------------------------------------
From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" 
To: healeys at autox.teamnet
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!

Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.????So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.????I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.????I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.
Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Mar 12 17:41:41 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 2020 19:41:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <7215b72b-f257-4926-962d-1c03ef7fdd55@me.com>
References: <7215b72b-f257-4926-962d-1c03ef7fdd55@me.com>
Message-ID: <416630bf-91c6-2a11-665d-89f58ee6796d@earthlink.net>

Steve,

When you have the lifters out, have a look at the cam lobes.

Low compress test means low combustion pressure which means high stress 
on the crankshaft?  I don't know; just asking if someone does.

Shipwright's disease is just around the corner. :)

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/12/20 7:29 PM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote:
> Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the 
> valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of 
> burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to 
> redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new 
> valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves 
> seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and 
> is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the 
> head to make it super smooth.
>  ???I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the 
> block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to 
> make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.
>  ???I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, 
> close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. 
> Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
>  ???Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then 
> I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, 
> it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
>  ???Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually 
> quite the fun project.
> Steven Kingsbury
> 
> On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Hank
>>
>> The fact that number 2 exhaust valve?is not the same colour as the 
>> others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be 
>> worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost  
>> clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This 
>> may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the 
>> valve out and check for any burning on the working face.
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>> On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net 
>> <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     Hi Steven-good to hear from you!
>>
>>     That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks
>>     between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak
>>     due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.
>>
>>     Also, I don't recommend? NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause
>>     of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or
>>     tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.
>>
>>     Regards, Hank Leach
>>
>>
>>     -----------------------------------------
>>
>>     From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" __
>>     To: healeys at autox.teamnet <mailto:healeys at autox.teamnet>
>>     Cc:
>>     Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
>>     Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>>
>>     Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you
>>     remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and
>>     only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was
>>     prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the
>>     valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a
>>     bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I
>>     went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat
>>     high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the
>>     top, but other than that and good.
>>     ???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in
>>     and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where
>>     it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve
>>     hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers
>>     still even in their fluid retention.
>>     ???So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost
>>     even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same
>>     depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and
>>     all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each
>>     cylinder.
>>     ???I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in
>>     town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car
>>     at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and
>>     I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side
>>     note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now
>>     cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was
>>     just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be
>>     obvious.
>>     ???I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side,
>>     inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I
>>     said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something
>>     wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I
>>     can't.
>>
>>     IMG_20200311_143602.jpg
>>     Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on
>>     number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or
>>     visible damage.
>>     IMG_20200311_172123.jpg
>>     And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It
>>     didn't drain out and just sat there.
>>     __
>>
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Best wishes
>>
>> John Harper
>>
>> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 

From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Thu Mar 12 18:19:19 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2020 00:19:19 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
Message-ID: <f566822f-4e9e-450f-9858-5d26e9b10690@me.com>

I've got a guy who builds engines for Bonneville advising me, so if he says, hone the cylinders, I will, if he says they look fine, I'm going to take his word for it. As far as the clutch, the little I did drive her, that felt really good and if I'm going to do the clutch, I will pull the transmission through the cockpit and do it that way. Done that before and that's just a day job.?
???As far as everything else, no leaks so why take things apart when they're not leaking? Rocker assembly seemed actually nice and tight and solid, so the etc, etc, etc will be done if needed, if not needed, it won't. I'm not going half ass, but I'm also not creating work just because I'm here. Now if I find the crank is a mess, well then, that's a whole new ball game and it will be dealt with. And since we don't have any ball games left right now, it will still be fun.
Steven Kingsbury

On March 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:




Not honing the cylinders?? While it's apart, how old is the clutch?? Rocker assembly?? Thrust rings?? Seals. front and rear, etc., etc.



Mike MacLean



On Thursday, March 12, 2020, 4:29:26 PM PDT, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:




Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.
???I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.?
???I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
???Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
???Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun project.
Steven Kingsbury
? ??

On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:


Hank


The fact that number 2 exhaust valve?is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost? clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.


Best regards


On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

Hi Steven-good to hear from you!

That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend? NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach






-----------------------------------------

From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
To: healeys at autox.teamnet
Cc:
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!


Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.
???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.?
???So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.?
???I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.?
???I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.


Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.




_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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--

Best wishes


John Harper


AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu Mar 12 18:26:06 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2020 00:26:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <f566822f-4e9e-450f-9858-5d26e9b10690@me.com>
References: <f566822f-4e9e-450f-9858-5d26e9b10690@me.com>
Message-ID: <2107476068.1062207.1584059166805@mail.yahoo.com>

 Sounds about right.? No use spending money where it's not needed.? Doesn't mean you shouldn't check while it's open though.Mike M

    On Thursday, March 12, 2020, 5:19:19 PM PDT, Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at icloud.com> wrote:  
 
 I've got a guy who builds engines for Bonneville advising me, so if he says, hone the cylinders, I will, if he says they look fine, I'm going to take his word for it. As far as the clutch, the little I did drive her, that felt really good and if I'm going to do the clutch, I will pull the transmission through the cockpit and do it that way. Done that before and that's just a day job.????As far as everything else, no leaks so why take things apart when they're not leaking? Rocker assembly seemed actually nice and tight and solid, so the etc, etc, etc will be done if needed, if not needed, it won't. I'm not going half ass, but I'm also not creating work just because I'm here. Now if I find the crank is a mess, well then, that's a whole new ball game and it will be dealt with. And since we don't have any ball games left right now, it will still be fun.Steven Kingsbury
On March 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:



Not honing the cylinders?? While it's apart, how old is the clutch?? Rocker assembly?? Thrust rings?? Seals. front and rear, etc., etc.

Mike MacLean

On Thursday, March 12, 2020, 4:29:26 PM PDT, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.???I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.????I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.???Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.???Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun project.Steven Kingsbury? ??
On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:


Hank
The fact that number 2 exhaust valve?is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost? clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.
Best regards
On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

Hi Steven-good to hear from you!
That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend? NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach




-----------------------------------------
From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" 
To: healeys at autox.teamnet
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!

Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.????So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.????I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.????I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.
Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.


_______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation? $12.75
 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
 
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
 



-- 
Best wishes
John Harper
AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Thu Mar 12 22:39:11 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2020 04:39:11 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
Message-ID: <02a78aa0-6072-437f-bd1d-e338b04c031d@me.com>

Very true. I will be checking everything I can get my hands and/or eyes on!?
S

On March 12, 2020 at 5:26 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:




Sounds about right.? No use spending money where it's not needed.? Doesn't mean you shouldn't check while it's open though.
Mike M



On Thursday, March 12, 2020, 5:19:19 PM PDT, Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at icloud.com> wrote:




I've got a guy who builds engines for Bonneville advising me, so if he says, hone the cylinders, I will, if he says they look fine, I'm going to take his word for it. As far as the clutch, the little I did drive her, that felt really good and if I'm going to do the clutch, I will pull the transmission through the cockpit and do it that way. Done that before and that's just a day job.?
???As far as everything else, no leaks so why take things apart when they're not leaking? Rocker assembly seemed actually nice and tight and solid, so the etc, etc, etc will be done if needed, if not needed, it won't. I'm not going half ass, but I'm also not creating work just because I'm here. Now if I find the crank is a mess, well then, that's a whole new ball game and it will be dealt with. And since we don't have any ball games left right now, it will still be fun.
Steven Kingsbury

On March 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:




Not honing the cylinders?? While it's apart, how old is the clutch?? Rocker assembly?? Thrust rings?? Seals. front and rear, etc., etc.



Mike MacLean



On Thursday, March 12, 2020, 4:29:26 PM PDT, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:




Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.
???I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.?
???I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
???Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
???Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun project.
Steven Kingsbury
? ??

On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:


Hank


The fact that number 2 exhaust valve?is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost? clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.


Best regards


On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

Hi Steven-good to hear from you!

That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend? NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach






-----------------------------------------

From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
To: healeys at autox.teamnet
Cc:
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!


Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.
???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.?
???So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.?
???I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.?
???I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.


Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.




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--

Best wishes


John Harper


AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
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From coudesluijs at chello.nl  Fri Mar 13 02:19:28 2020
From: coudesluijs at chello.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2020 09:19:28 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <7215b72b-f257-4926-962d-1c03ef7fdd55@me.com>
References: <7215b72b-f257-4926-962d-1c03ef7fdd55@me.com>
Message-ID: <6fad2343-bfb8-9086-8662-f59ad3921966@chello.nl>

Measure the bores in several places first. If no significant wear is 
apparent leave the pistons and rings well alone. Also look for ridges 
near the top of the bores. If they are not present, wear is not very 
likely. If the bores are fine, piston ring wear is not likely. Valves do 
rock a bit in the guides. They need to, they expand in the guides when 
the engine is running. You may or may not use cap seals on the valve 
guides.

If there is wear in the cylinders however have the block rebored and fit 
new pistons and rings

Burning some oil is nothing to worry about on the old engines. When new 
1ltr per 1000km (about 1 qrt per 500mls) was quite permissible (after 
running in during which oil consumption could be much higher). Check the 
crank case ventilation system, when dirty/blocked it can be a cause of 
considerable oil consumption. Anyway you probably loose most oil 
leaking. Overfilling the sump is another cause of oil consumption as 
excessive oil will be expelled through the crank case ventilation system

The head should be dead straight but the surface does not need to be 
super smooth. In most causes you can see feel the milling marks.

Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice if the bottom 
end comes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in time you will 
save on grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank pins in various 
places and check if these are within limits.

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:
> Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the 
> valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign 
> of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the 
> pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also 
> going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the 
> head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head 
> though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out 
> for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.
> ???I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the 
> block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to 
> make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.
> ???I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, 
> close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. 
> Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
> ???Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then 
> I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, 
> it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
> ???Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually 
> quite the fun project.
> Steven Kingsbury
>
> On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> 
> wrote:
>
>> Hank
>>
>> The fact that number 2 exhaust valve?is not the same colour as the 
>> others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be 
>> worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost? 
>> clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This 
>> may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the 
>> valve out and check for any burning on the working face.
>>
>> Best regards
>>
>> On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net 
>> <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     Hi Steven-good to hear from you!
>>
>>     That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks
>>     between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak
>>     due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.
>>
>>     Also, I don't recommend? NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe
>>     cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring
>>     broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.
>>
>>     Regards, Hank Leach
>>
>>
>>     -----------------------------------------
>>
>>     From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
>>     To: healeys at autox.teamnet <mailto:healeys at autox.teamnet>
>>     Cc:
>>     Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
>>     Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>>
>>     Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you
>>     remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and
>>     only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was
>>     prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the
>>     valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a
>>     bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I
>>     went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat
>>     high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the
>>     top, but other than that and good.
>>     ???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in
>>     and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see
>>     where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited.
>>     Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All
>>     chambers still even in their fluid retention.
>>     ???So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an
>>     almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at
>>     the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the
>>     others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly
>>     in each cylinder.
>>     ???I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in
>>     town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his
>>     car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing
>>     and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a
>>     side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can
>>     see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know.
>>     I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something
>>     would be obvious.
>>     ???I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side,
>>     inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I
>>     said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find
>>     something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see
>>     something I can't.
>>
>>     IMG_20200311_143602.jpg
>>     Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on
>>     number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or
>>     visible damage.
>>     IMG_20200311_172123.jpg
>>     And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It
>>     didn't drain out and just sat there.
>>
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Best wishes
>>
>> John Harper
>>
>> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk  Fri Mar 13 04:06:04 2020
From: hypercubic at yahoo.co.uk (mike brooks)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2020 10:06:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Re - 4 cylinder woes
References: <1610984071.195819.1584093964832.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1610984071.195819.1584093964832@mail.yahoo.com>

To get a good compression reading one needs the valves to seal properly,? as well as no cracks, broken rings etc. The fact that no. 2 exhaust valve is "a bit black" suggests to me it might be leaking. Might as well grind the valves in, put the head back on and try the compression test again.?
Mike Brooks'56 BN2Scotland

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Mar 13 09:10:12 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2020 15:10:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <f566822f-4e9e-450f-9858-5d26e9b10690@me.com>
References: <f566822f-4e9e-450f-9858-5d26e9b10690@me.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB3432F6D90B45E5B9B5B4C7CBA5FA0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

I?ve always preferred garage time to ball games anyway.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2020 12:19:19 AM
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!

I've got a guy who builds engines for Bonneville advising me, so if he says, hone the cylinders, I will, if he says they look fine, I'm going to take his word for it. As far as the clutch, the little I did drive her, that felt really good and if I'm going to do the clutch, I will pull the transmission through the cockpit and do it that way. Done that before and that's just a day job.
   As far as everything else, no leaks so why take things apart when they're not leaking? Rocker assembly seemed actually nice and tight and solid, so the etc, etc, etc will be done if needed, if not needed, it won't. I'm not going half ass, but I'm also not creating work just because I'm here. Now if I find the crank is a mess, well then, that's a whole new ball game and it will be dealt with. And since we don't have any ball games left right now, it will still be fun.
Steven Kingsbury

On March 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:


Not honing the cylinders?  While it's apart, how old is the clutch?  Rocker assembly?  Thrust rings?  Seals. front and rear, etc., etc.

Mike MacLean

On Thursday, March 12, 2020, 4:29:26 PM PDT, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.
   I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.
   I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
   Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
   Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun project.
Steven Kingsbury


On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:

Hank

The fact that number 2 exhaust valve is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost  clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.

Best regards

On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net<mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>> wrote:
Hi Steven-good to hear from you!

That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend  NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach



-----------------------------------------

From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
To: healeys at autox.teamnet<mailto:healeys at autox.teamnet>
Cc:
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!

Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.
   So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.
   So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.
   I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.
   I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.

[IMG_20200311_143602.jpg]
Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
[IMG_20200311_172123.jpg]
And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net<http://Team.Net> http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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--
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From schottc at knology.net  Fri Mar 13 09:23:36 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2020 11:23:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR07MB3432F6D90B45E5B9B5B4C7CBA5FA0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
References: <f566822f-4e9e-450f-9858-5d26e9b10690@me.com>
 <CY4PR07MB3432F6D90B45E5B9B5B4C7CBA5FA0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <583311264.6154854.1584113016735.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Bill or anyone else, 

Does anyone know where I can get a 100 4 oil pan. The machine shop"lost" mine. Thanks. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE" <ynotink at msn.com> 
To: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net>, "Michael MacLean" <rrengineer.mike at att.net> 
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2020 10:10:12 AM 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two! 

I?ve always preferred garage time to ball games anyway. 

Bill Lawrence 
BN1 #554 
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2020 12:19:19 AM 
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two! 
I've got a guy who builds engines for Bonneville advising me, so if he says, hone the cylinders, I will, if he says they look fine, I'm going to take his word for it. As far as the clutch, the little I did drive her, that felt really good and if I'm going to do the clutch, I will pull the transmission through the cockpit and do it that way. Done that before and that's just a day job. 
As far as everything else, no leaks so why take things apart when they're not leaking? Rocker assembly seemed actually nice and tight and solid, so the etc, etc, etc will be done if needed, if not needed, it won't. I'm not going half ass, but I'm also not creating work just because I'm here. Now if I find the crank is a mess, well then, that's a whole new ball game and it will be dealt with. And since we don't have any ball games left right now, it will still be fun. 
Steven Kingsbury 

On March 12, 2020 at 4:32 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote: 





Not honing the cylinders? While it's apart, how old is the clutch? Rocker assembly? Thrust rings? Seals. front and rear, etc., etc. 

Mike MacLean 

On Thursday, March 12, 2020, 4:29:26 PM PDT, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote: 


Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth. 
I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there. 
I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is. 
Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen. 
Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun project. 
Steven Kingsbury 

On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote: 


<blockquote>

Hank 

The fact that number 2 exhaust valve is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face. 

Best regards 

On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, < gradea1 at charter.net > wrote: 

<blockquote>

Hi Steven-good to hear from you! 

That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good. 

Also, I don't recommend NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit. 

Regards, Hank Leach 




----------------------------------------- From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" 
To: healeys at autox.teamnet 
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM 
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two! 

Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good. 
So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention. 
So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder. 
I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious. 
I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't. 

Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage. 
And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there. 



_______________________________________________ 
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Suggested annual donation $12.75 

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-- 
Best wishes 

John Harper 

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary 

</blockquote>

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From ynotink at msn.com  Fri Mar 13 12:46:21 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2020 18:46:21 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <6fad2343-bfb8-9086-8662-f59ad3921966@chello.nl>
References: <7215b72b-f257-4926-962d-1c03ef7fdd55@me.com>,
 <6fad2343-bfb8-9086-8662-f59ad3921966@chello.nl>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB34327347951C4CE8ACE21C35A5FA0@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides in an iron head. These can cause problems due to the different thermal expansion rates of the materials. The iron can crush the bronze and cause the valve to stick.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2020 8:19:28 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!


Measure the bores in several places first. If no significant wear is apparent leave the pistons and rings well alone. Also look for ridges near the top of the bores. If they are not present, wear is not very likely. If the bores are fine, piston ring wear is not likely. Valves do rock a bit in the guides. They need to, they expand in the guides when the engine is running. You may or may not use cap seals on the valve guides.

If there is wear in the cylinders however have the block rebored and fit new pistons and rings

Burning some oil is nothing to worry about on the old engines. When new 1ltr per 1000km (about 1 qrt per 500mls) was quite permissible (after running in during which oil consumption could be much higher). Check the crank case ventilation system, when dirty/blocked it can be a cause of considerable oil consumption. Anyway you probably loose most oil leaking. Overfilling the sump is another cause of oil consumption as excessive oil will be expelled through the crank case ventilation system

The head should be dead straight but the surface does not need to be super smooth. In most causes you can see feel the milling marks.

Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice if the bottom end comes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in time you will save on grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank pins in various places and check if these are within limits.

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:
Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.
   I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.
   I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
   Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
   Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun project.
Steven Kingsbury


On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com><mailto:ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:

Hank

The fact that number 2 exhaust valve is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost  clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.

Best regards

On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net<mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>> wrote:
Hi Steven-good to hear from you!

That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend  NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach



-----------------------------------------

From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
To: healeys at autox.teamnet<mailto:healeys at autox.teamnet>
Cc:
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!

Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.
   So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.
   So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.
   I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.
   I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.

[IMG_20200311_143602.jpg]
Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
[IMG_20200311_172123.jpg]
And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.


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--
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary



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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Fri Mar 13 17:17:45 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Fri, 13 Mar 2020 23:17:45 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
Message-ID: <deb875b2-dafd-4ae5-94ec-e46027fa7a54@me.com>

This is the first I have ever heard about the bronze valve guides being crushed. I had always heard they were the better ones and they are by far the more expensive. Not that money and/or expensive makes something better. I have heard though, that they are better, so this is a surprise.?
???And yes, I will be checking everything over with a fine tooth comb all this weekend. With the amount of carbon I found on the valves I am for sure going to be checking the piston rings even though the cylinder walls are quite pristine. The reason? Finding less than stellar workmanship in the previous work done of this engine, I just don't trust that the rings were done correctly to begin with and since I'm here, I'm going to check.? Peace of mind will be well worth it.
Steven

On March 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:


Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides in an iron head. These can cause problems due to the different thermal expansion rates of the materials. The iron can crush the bronze and cause the valve to stick.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2020 8:19:28 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
?

Measure the bores in several places first. If no significant wear is apparent leave the pistons and rings well alone. Also look for ridges near the top of the bores. If they are not present, wear is not very likely. If the bores are fine, piston ring wear is not likely. Valves do rock a bit in the guides. They need to, they expand in the guides when the engine is running. You may or may not use cap seals on the valve guides.


If there is wear in the cylinders however have the block rebored and fit new pistons and rings


Burning some oil is nothing to worry about on the old engines. When new 1ltr per 1000km (about 1 qrt per 500mls) was quite permissible (after running in during which oil consumption could be much higher). Check the crank case ventilation system, when dirty/blocked it can be a cause of considerable oil consumption. Anyway you probably loose most oil leaking. Overfilling the sump is another cause of oil consumption as excessive oil will be expelled through the crank case ventilation system


The head should be dead straight but the surface does not need to be super smooth. In most causes you can see feel the milling marks.

Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice if the bottom end comes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in time you will save on grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank pins in various places and check if these are within limits.


Kees Oudesluijs




Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:

Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.
???I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.?
???I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
???Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
???Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun project.
Steven Kingsbury
? ??

On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:


Hank


The fact that number 2 exhaust valve?is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost? clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.


Best regards


On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

Hi Steven-good to hear from you!

That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend? NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach






-----------------------------------------

From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
To: healeys at autox.teamnet
Cc:
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!


Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.
???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.?
???So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.?
???I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.?
???I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.


Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.




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--

Best wishes


John Harper


AHC UK 100 Register Secretary


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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Mar 13 17:42:14 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 12:42:14 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <deb875b2-dafd-4ae5-94ec-e46027fa7a54@me.com>
References: <deb875b2-dafd-4ae5-94ec-e46027fa7a54@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJkZpQQOAssQo_-wZcu6MG5fZja7WVQSqo6wqNEYibSJA@mail.gmail.com>

Bronze guides...
https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/05/15/bronze-giudes-in-cast-iron-cylinder-heads/

On Sat, Mar 14, 2020, 12:17 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> This is the first I have ever heard about the bronze valve guides being
> crushed. I had always heard they were the better ones and they are by far
> the more expensive. Not that money and/or expensive makes something better.
> I have heard though, that they are better, so this is a surprise.
>    And yes, I will be checking everything over with a fine tooth comb all
> this weekend. With the amount of carbon I found on the valves I am for sure
> going to be checking the piston rings even though the cylinder walls are
> quite pristine. The reason? Finding less than stellar workmanship in the
> previous work done of this engine, I just don't trust that the rings were
> done correctly to begin with and since I'm here, I'm going to check.  Peace
> of mind will be well worth it.
> Steven
>
> On March 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
>
> Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides in an iron
> head. These can cause problems due to the different thermal expansion rates
> of the materials. The iron can crush the bronze and cause the valve to
> stick.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees
> Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> *Sent:* Friday, March 13, 2020 8:19:28 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>
>
> Measure the bores in several places first. If no significant wear is
> apparent leave the pistons and rings well alone. Also look for ridges near
> the top of the bores. If they are not present, wear is not very likely. If
> the bores are fine, piston ring wear is not likely. Valves do rock a bit in
> the guides. They need to, they expand in the guides when the engine is
> running. You may or may not use cap seals on the valve guides.
>
> If there is wear in the cylinders however have the block rebored and fit
> new pistons and rings
>
> Burning some oil is nothing to worry about on the old engines. When new
> 1ltr per 1000km (about 1 qrt per 500mls) was quite permissible (after
> running in during which oil consumption could be much higher). Check the
> crank case ventilation system, when dirty/blocked it can be a cause of
> considerable oil consumption. Anyway you probably loose most oil leaking.
> Overfilling the sump is another cause of oil consumption as excessive oil
> will be expelled through the crank case ventilation system
>
> The head should be dead straight but the surface does not need to be super
> smooth. In most causes you can see feel the milling marks.
>
> Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice if the bottom end
> comes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in time you will save on
> grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank pins in various places and check
> if these are within limits.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:
>
> Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the
> valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of
> burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to
> redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new
> valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem
> to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is
> straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head
> to make it super smooth.
>    I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block
> and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure
> it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.
>    I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close
> up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in
> for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
>    Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I
> will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it
> seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
>    Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually
> quite the fun project.
> Steven Kingsbury
>
>
> On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
> <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hank
>
> The fact that number 2 exhaust valve is not the same colour as the others
> might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking
> for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost  clearance. A partially
> seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but
> it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any
> burning on the working face.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Steven-good to hear from you!
>
> That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3
> and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped
> head...especially if valves and rings checked good.
>
> Also, I don't recommend  NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of
> carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods
> bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.
>
> Regards, Hank Leach
>
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
> To: healeys at autox.teamnet
> Cc:
> Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>
> Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I
> had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in
> cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem
> with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than
> number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it
> looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls
> smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on
> the top, but other than that and good.
>    So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled
> the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out.
> Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than
> evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.
>    So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even
> position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick
> leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally
> drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.
>    I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an
> old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in
> the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me
> some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a
> magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not
> there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference,
> something would be obvious.
>    I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect
> all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit
> perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some
> photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.
>
> [image: IMG_20200311_143602.jpg]
> Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number
> two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
> [image: IMG_20200311_172123.jpg]
> And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain
> out and just sat there.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>
>
>
> --
> Best wishes
>
> John Harper
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs at chello.nl
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
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> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Fri Mar 13 21:28:09 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 03:28:09 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
Message-ID: <ac3748db-625a-431a-9b71-03f9709c4530@me.com>

So I now know, I will reorder the guides from Moss Motors and go with the non Manganese-Bronze expensive guides and stick with the cheaper/and better steel ones they sell. I had no idea, if I were going with a new aluminum head, I'd stick with my order, but after reading your article, I'm glad half of the order was on back order.?
???Thank you for the information and Bill Lawrence, thank you for pointing it out and alerting me to a disaster in the making. Michael, you saved another day. Thanks, I appreciate the input and more importantly, the education.
Steven

On March 13, 2020 at 4:38 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:


Bronze guides...
https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/05/15/bronze-giudes-in-cast-iron-cylinder-heads/



On Sat, Mar 14, 2020, 12:17 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

This is the first I have ever heard about the bronze valve guides being crushed. I had always heard they were the better ones and they are by far the more expensive. Not that money and/or expensive makes something better. I have heard though, that they are better, so this is a surprise.?
???And yes, I will be checking everything over with a fine tooth comb all this weekend. With the amount of carbon I found on the valves I am for sure going to be checking the piston rings even though the cylinder walls are quite pristine. The reason? Finding less than stellar workmanship in the previous work done of this engine, I just don't trust that the rings were done correctly to begin with and since I'm here, I'm going to check.? Peace of mind will be well worth it.
Steven

On March 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:


Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides in an iron head. These can cause problems due to the different thermal expansion rates of the materials. The iron can crush the bronze and cause the valve to stick.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2020 8:19:28 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
?

Measure the bores in several places first. If no significant wear is apparent leave the pistons and rings well alone. Also look for ridges near the top of the bores. If they are not present, wear is not very likely. If the bores are fine, piston ring wear is not likely. Valves do rock a bit in the guides. They need to, they expand in the guides when the engine is running. You may or may not use cap seals on the valve guides.


If there is wear in the cylinders however have the block rebored and fit new pistons and rings


Burning some oil is nothing to worry about on the old engines. When new 1ltr per 1000km (about 1 qrt per 500mls) was quite permissible (after running in during which oil consumption could be much higher). Check the crank case ventilation system, when dirty/blocked it can be a cause of considerable oil consumption. Anyway you probably loose most oil leaking. Overfilling the sump is another cause of oil consumption as excessive oil will be expelled through the crank case ventilation system


The head should be dead straight but the surface does not need to be super smooth. In most causes you can see feel the milling marks.

Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice if the bottom end comes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in time you will save on grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank pins in various places and check if these are within limits.


Kees Oudesluijs




Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:

Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.
???I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.?
???I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
???Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
???Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun project.
Steven Kingsbury
? ??

On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:


Hank


The fact that number 2 exhaust valve?is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost? clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.


Best regards


On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

Hi Steven-good to hear from you!

That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend? NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach






-----------------------------------------

From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
To: healeys at autox.teamnet
Cc:
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!


Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.
???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.?
???So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.?
???I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.?
???I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.


Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.




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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sat Mar 14 01:00:59 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 07:00:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Long bolt BN1 remote control housing
Message-ID: <59765756456a55ca755d6d30437b1d497f503ea7@webmail>

Eric- the short bolt is the same as the ones used on the side cover:
5/16 x 22 BSF and about 7/8" long to the head. 2K3094

	Yes, Permatex Aviation is what I normally use. Lately I have been
using the "High Tack". Use it on all gaskets and if the overdrive is
apart at the brake ring do BOTH sides of the ring, but without a
gasket...be careful not to get any inside the OD unit. Ignore passage
in workshop manual telling you not to use sealant on ring...if you
don't, it will leak. These are 60 year old parts and they are tired. 

	Best Regards, Hank (healeyhelper.com)

	-----------------------------------------From: "Eric Metzner" 
To: gradea1 at charter.net
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 12:27:30PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Long bolt BN1 remote control housing

Oh, I?m a donut, just trusted the spare parts list without having a
close look to what?s in front of me. Ordered a long bolt from an
German Healey parts supplier - so they also do not know that there is
a mislead.Hank, do you now how long the ?short? setscrew
is?Related to the gaskets I normally use permatex Aviation 3h on both
sides - do you think that will work - it?s the first time I?m
doing a BN1 gearbox ?
Thanks a lot in advancebest regards Eric

Von meinem iPad gesendet
Am 12.03.2020 um 17:52 schrieb gradea1 at charter.net [1]:

Actually there are 5 long bolts, setscrews (2K3109) that secure the
control (9) to the side cover ((7) and one stud on the left-middle for
a nut/spring washer... there is one short one (2K3097) on
right-middle... the parts book is incorrect listing the long for the
short. Three setscrews (2K3094) on the left, then additionally hold
the cover to the box. See diagram. Remember the two gaskets and use
sealant each side or they will leak.

	Hank, healeyhelper.com [2]

	-----------------------------------------From: "Eric Metzner" 
To: healeys at autox.team.net [3]
Cc: 
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 7:42:44AM
Subject: [Healeys] Long bolt BN1 remote control housing

Dear BN1 specialists,
 I m wondering where the long bolt at the remote control housing at
the BN1 gearbox goes to? Any hint would appreciated before I mess up
my housing.
 BR
 Eric

	

Links:
------
[1] mailto:gradea1 at charter.net
[2] http://healeyhelper.com
[3] mailto:healeys at autox.team.net

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Sat Mar 14 08:36:26 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 08:36:26 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJkZpQQOAssQo_-wZcu6MG5fZja7WVQSqo6wqNEYibSJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <deb875b2-dafd-4ae5-94ec-e46027fa7a54@me.com>
 <CAB3i7LJkZpQQOAssQo_-wZcu6MG5fZja7WVQSqo6wqNEYibSJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <93886127-4acc-9087-03ca-c28f430447d3@porterscustom.com>

Steven, this is starting to make us both crazy. You have proved, nearly 
conclusively that the rings and valves are sealing. To be sure of those 
findings do this. On the offending cylinder rotate the valves in the 
guides to ascertain one of the heads isn't bent and only seals in one 
particular position. Second bring the piston to near TDC and push on it 
to see if it moves laterally more than intact rings would permit. 
Compare with the other pistons. This might indicate a broken or weak 
ring that doesn't show up under cranking. Lastly, yes a well worn cam 
lobe would indicate insufficient time for cylinder filling. You might 
also look in the radiator for air bubbles when cranking---another issue 
for gasket failure. Healey 4cyl? heads are notorious for leaking around 
the cyl bores esp with a solid copper gasket. There is a gasket outfit 
in Lubbock TX that can make individual rings, say 0.002-0.0025" to place 
over the gasket to provide extra squish around the bores. PS always 
check compression with the throttle wide open.? DP

On 3/13/2020 5:42 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Bronze guides...
> https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/05/15/bronze-giudes-in-cast-iron-cylinder-heads/
>
> On Sat, Mar 14, 2020, 12:17 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     This is the first I have ever heard about the bronze valve guides
>     being crushed. I had always heard they were the better ones and
>     they are by far the more expensive. Not that money and/or
>     expensive makes something better. I have heard though, that they
>     are better, so this is a surprise.
>     ???And yes, I will be checking everything over with a fine tooth
>     comb all this weekend. With the amount of carbon I found on the
>     valves I am for sure going to be checking the piston rings even
>     though the cylinder walls are quite pristine. The reason? Finding
>     less than stellar workmanship in the previous work done of this
>     engine, I just don't trust that the rings were done correctly to
>     begin with and since I'm here, I'm going to check.? Peace of mind
>     will be well worth it.
>     Steven
>
>     On March 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com
>     <mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
>
>>     Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides in
>>     an iron head. These can cause problems due to the different
>>     thermal expansion rates of the materials. The iron can crush the
>>     bronze and cause the valve to stick.
>>
>>     Bill Lawrence
>>     BN1 #554
>>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>     *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Kees
>>     Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl <mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>>
>>     *Sent:* Friday, March 13, 2020 8:19:28 AM
>>     *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>     *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>>
>>     Measure the bores in several places first. If no significant wear
>>     is apparent leave the pistons and rings well alone. Also look for
>>     ridges near the top of the bores. If they are not present, wear
>>     is not very likely. If the bores are fine, piston ring wear is
>>     not likely. Valves do rock a bit in the guides. They need to,
>>     they expand in the guides when the engine is running. You may or
>>     may not use cap seals on the valve guides.
>>
>>     If there is wear in the cylinders however have the block rebored
>>     and fit new pistons and rings
>>
>>     Burning some oil is nothing to worry about on the old engines.
>>     When new 1ltr per 1000km (about 1 qrt per 500mls) was quite
>>     permissible (after running in during which oil consumption could
>>     be much higher). Check the crank case ventilation system, when
>>     dirty/blocked it can be a cause of considerable oil consumption.
>>     Anyway you probably loose most oil leaking. Overfilling the sump
>>     is another cause of oil consumption as excessive oil will be
>>     expelled through the crank case ventilation system
>>
>>     The head should be dead straight but the surface does not need to
>>     be super smooth. In most causes you can see feel the milling marks.
>>
>>     Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice if the
>>     bottom end comes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in
>>     time you will save on grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank
>>     pins in various places and check if these are within limits.
>>
>>     Kees Oudesluijs
>>
>>
>>     Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:
>>>     Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took
>>>     the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft
>>>     carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have
>>>     to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here,
>>>     so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in
>>>     and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a
>>>     bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is
>>>     straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface
>>>     the head to make it super smooth.
>>>     ???I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of
>>>     the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the
>>>     crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod
>>>     bearings when in there.
>>>     ???I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good,
>>>     hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a
>>>     problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling
>>>     that is.
>>>     ???Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time
>>>     and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work.
>>>     But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for
>>>     further updates as they happen.
>>>     ???Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is
>>>     actually quite the fun project.
>>>     Steven Kingsbury
>>>
>>>     On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper
>>>     <ah100register at gmail.com> <mailto:ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>     Hank
>>>>
>>>>     The fact that number 2 exhaust valve?is not the same colour as
>>>>     the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It
>>>>     would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring
>>>>     or just lost? clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible
>>>>     but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not
>>>>     take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any
>>>>     burning on the working face.
>>>>
>>>>     Best regards
>>>>
>>>>     On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net
>>>>     <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>         Hi Steven-good to hear from you!
>>>>
>>>>         That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for
>>>>         cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head
>>>>         gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and
>>>>         rings checked good.
>>>>
>>>>         Also, I don't recommend? NGK plugs- use Champion
>>>>         N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat,
>>>>         valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is
>>>>         in head-block fit.
>>>>
>>>>         Regards, Hank Leach
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>         -----------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>>         From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
>>>>         To: healeys at autox.teamnet <mailto:healeys at autox.teamnet>
>>>>         Cc:
>>>>         Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
>>>>         Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>>>>
>>>>         Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If
>>>>         you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3,
>>>>         and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the
>>>>         head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped
>>>>         it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than
>>>>         number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks,
>>>>         nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look
>>>>         into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high
>>>>         compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the
>>>>         top, but other than that and good.
>>>>         ???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs
>>>>         back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint
>>>>         thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber
>>>>         evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than
>>>>         evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their
>>>>         fluid retention.
>>>>         ???So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an
>>>>         almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders
>>>>         at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster
>>>>         than the others and all the fluid finally drained out
>>>>         smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.
>>>>         ???I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a
>>>>         guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines
>>>>         and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He
>>>>         knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some
>>>>         sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the
>>>>         head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but
>>>>         that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just
>>>>         thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would
>>>>         be obvious.
>>>>         ???I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the
>>>>         side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find
>>>>         there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done.
>>>>         I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you,
>>>>         maybe you can see something I can't.
>>>>
>>>>         IMG_20200311_143602.jpg
>>>>         Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust
>>>>         valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no
>>>>         cracks, chips, or visible damage.
>>>>         IMG_20200311_172123.jpg
>>>>         And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers.
>>>>         It didn't drain out and just sat there.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>         _______________________________________________
>>>>         Support Team.Net <http://Team.Net>
>>>>         http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>         <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>>>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>>>
>>>>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>>         http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>>>>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>     -- 
>>>>     Best wishes
>>>>
>>>>     John Harper
>>>>
>>>>     AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>>>
>>>     _______________________________________________
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-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From manifold at telus.net  Sat Mar 14 14:59:05 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 13:59:05 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Disassembling the Truck Lock
Message-ID: <B43F3601826B49CC831A4BD72636BB1E@AllInOne>

Hello,
 
I am planning to re-chrome the truck lock on my AH 3000 but need to
disassemble it first. How does it come apart? Picture attached. I suspect
there is a secret pin or clip somewhere but I thought it better to ask than
break something.
 
Thanks... Harold
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Sat Mar 14 17:17:29 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (Roland Wilhelmy)
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 16:17:29 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Disassembling the Truck Lock
In-Reply-To: <B43F3601826B49CC831A4BD72636BB1E@AllInOne>
References: <B43F3601826B49CC831A4BD72636BB1E@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CADpDe+Z3MP5J0++VvWg6onoeWoaWrhn9=sDpGqtX49+HQeTf7g@mail.gmail.com>

There is a pin. But to reach it you have to grind off the swages that hold
the assembly together on the square shaft. There are four swages one on
each corner of the shaft. If you are careful you can replace everything and
swage it together with a chisel after rechroming or rekeying.  There is a
pin, and as I recall you need to use a key or pick the lock and rotate the
barrel (if it is presently locked) to make much progress. Picking is pretty
easy.

If repro quality suits you it is easier and probably cheaper just to buy a
replacement. I like better quality chrome and I did it the hard way. By the
way the repro lock assemblies are slightly different which isn't a problem
unless you want to use your present lock barrel in the new assembly.
(Requires filing and replating)

-Roland

On Sat, Mar 14, 2020, 2:10 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I am planning to re-chrome the truck lock on my AH 3000 but need to
> disassemble it first. How does it come apart? Picture attached. I suspect
> there is a secret pin or clip somewhere but I thought it better to ask than
> break something.
>
> Thanks... Harold
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sat Mar 14 17:24:29 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 23:24:29 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] FW: UK Virus alerts - you've got to chuckle
In-Reply-To: <92A9D842-D922-4B03-A52D-C2C3996179DF@icloud.com>
References: <27816901.2680204.1584046017036@mail.yahoo.com>
 <92A9D842-D922-4B03-A52D-C2C3996179DF@icloud.com>
Message-ID: <001601d5fa57$b690a850$23b1f8f0$@alexarevel.plus.com>

All in the best possible taste:-

Don?t know whose it is. It may amuse as many people as it offends. I?m not mentioned, by nationality, so I?m keeping out of that one?.

?Amongst the gloom over the spreading virus and the financial meltdown, its still important to raise a SMILE!   

The English are feeling the pinch in relation to the recent virus threat and have therefore raised their threat level from ?Miffed? to ?Peeved.? Soon, though, that level may be raised yet again to ?Irritated? or even ?A Bit Cross.?The English have not been ?A Bit Cross? since the blitz in 1940, when tea supplies nearly ran out. The virus has been re-categorized from ?Tiresome? to ?A Bloody Nuisance.? The last time the British issued a ?Bloody Nuisance? warning level was in 1588, when threatened by the Spanish Armada.

The Scots have raised their threat level from ?Pissed Off? to ?Let's Get the Bastard.? They don't have any other levels. This is the reason they have been used on the front line of the British Army for the last 300 years. 

The French government announced yesterday that it has raised its alert level from ?Run? to ?Hide.? The only two higher levels in France are ?Collaborate? and ?Surrender.? The rise was precipitated by a recent fire that destroyed France's white flag factory, effectively paralyzing the country's military capability. 

Italy has increased the alert level from ?Shout Loudly and Excitedly? to ?Elaborate Military Posturing.? Two more levels remain: ?Ineffective Combat Operations? and ?Change Sides.?

The Germans have increased their alert state from ?Disdainful Arrogance? to ?Dress in Uniform and Sing Marching Songs.? They also have two higher levels: ?Invade a Neighbour? and ?Lose.? 

Belgians, on the other hand, are all on holiday as usual; the only threat they are worried about is NATO pulling out of Brussels. 

The Spanish are all excited to see their new submarines ready to deploy. These beautifully designed subs have glass bottoms so the new Spanish Navy can get a really good look at the old Spanish Navy. 

Australia, meanwhile, has raised its alert level from ?No worries? to ?She'll be alright, Mate.? Two more escalation levels remain: ?Crikey! I think we'll need to cancel the barbie this weekend!? and ?The barbie is cancelled.? So far, no situation has ever warranted use of the final escalation level. 

The Russians have said ?Its not us? 

And there you have it.  A World united.....!!

  KEEP WASHING THE HANDS AND ELBOW BUMPING !?

Good luck wherever you are?..

 

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From ynotink at msn.com  Sat Mar 14 20:25:12 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 02:25:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <93886127-4acc-9087-03ca-c28f430447d3@porterscustom.com>
References: <deb875b2-dafd-4ae5-94ec-e46027fa7a54@me.com>
 <CAB3i7LJkZpQQOAssQo_-wZcu6MG5fZja7WVQSqo6wqNEYibSJA@mail.gmail.com>,
 <93886127-4acc-9087-03ca-c28f430447d3@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR07MB343244D6731EBA70F21B73F2A5F80@CY4PR07MB3432.namprd07.prod.outlook.com>

Since the thermal expansion rates of bronze and iron are so different the bronze guide can be crushed by the iron surrounding it thus causing the valve stem to stick. The solution is to provide extra clearance in the guide, which kind of negates the benefit of replacing the guides in the first place. They do work well in alloy heads though.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2020 2:36:26 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!


Steven, this is starting to make us both crazy. You have proved, nearly conclusively that the rings and valves are sealing. To be sure of those findings do this. On the offending cylinder rotate the valves in the guides to ascertain one of the heads isn't bent and only seals in one particular position. Second bring the piston to near TDC and push on it to see if it moves laterally more than intact rings would permit. Compare with the other pistons. This might indicate a broken or weak ring that doesn't show up under cranking. Lastly, yes a well worn cam lobe would indicate insufficient time for cylinder filling. You might also look in the radiator for air bubbles when cranking---another issue for gasket failure. Healey 4cyl  heads are notorious for leaking around the cyl bores esp with a solid copper gasket. There is a gasket outfit in Lubbock TX that can make individual rings, say 0.002-0.0025" to place over the gasket to provide extra squish around the bores. PS always check compression with the throttle wide open.  DP

On 3/13/2020 5:42 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
Bronze guides...
https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/05/15/bronze-giudes-in-cast-iron-cylinder-heads/

On Sat, Mar 14, 2020, 12:17 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
This is the first I have ever heard about the bronze valve guides being crushed. I had always heard they were the better ones and they are by far the more expensive. Not that money and/or expensive makes something better. I have heard though, that they are better, so this is a surprise.
   And yes, I will be checking everything over with a fine tooth comb all this weekend. With the amount of carbon I found on the valves I am for sure going to be checking the piston rings even though the cylinder walls are quite pristine. The reason? Finding less than stellar workmanship in the previous work done of this engine, I just don't trust that the rings were done correctly to begin with and since I'm here, I'm going to check.  Peace of mind will be well worth it.
Steven

On March 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com<mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:

Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides in an iron head. These can cause problems due to the different thermal expansion rates of the materials. The iron can crush the bronze and cause the valve to stick.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl<mailto:coudesluijs at chello.nl>>
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2020 8:19:28 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!


Measure the bores in several places first. If no significant wear is apparent leave the pistons and rings well alone. Also look for ridges near the top of the bores. If they are not present, wear is not very likely. If the bores are fine, piston ring wear is not likely. Valves do rock a bit in the guides. They need to, they expand in the guides when the engine is running. You may or may not use cap seals on the valve guides.

If there is wear in the cylinders however have the block rebored and fit new pistons and rings

Burning some oil is nothing to worry about on the old engines. When new 1ltr per 1000km (about 1 qrt per 500mls) was quite permissible (after running in during which oil consumption could be much higher). Check the crank case ventilation system, when dirty/blocked it can be a cause of considerable oil consumption. Anyway you probably loose most oil leaking. Overfilling the sump is another cause of oil consumption as excessive oil will be expelled through the crank case ventilation system

The head should be dead straight but the surface does not need to be super smooth. In most causes you can see feel the milling marks.

Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice if the bottom end comes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in time you will save on grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank pins in various places and check if these are within limits.

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:
Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.
   I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.
   I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
   Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
   Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun project.
Steven Kingsbury


On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com><mailto:ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:

Hank

The fact that number 2 exhaust valve is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost  clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.

Best regards

On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net<mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>> wrote:
Hi Steven-good to hear from you!

That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend  NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach



-----------------------------------------

From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
To: healeys at autox.teamnet<mailto:healeys at autox.teamnet>
Cc:
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!

Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.
   So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.
   So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.
   I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.
   I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.

[IMG_20200311_143602.jpg]
Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
[IMG_20200311_172123.jpg]
And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.


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Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary



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From ericmetzner at gmx.de  Sun Mar 15 01:54:31 2020
From: ericmetzner at gmx.de (Eric Metzner)
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 08:54:31 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Long bolt BN1 remote control housing
In-Reply-To: <59765756456a55ca755d6d30437b1d497f503ea7@webmail>
References: <59765756456a55ca755d6d30437b1d497f503ea7@webmail>
Message-ID: <F0FB4A94-E321-4F37-93BB-5F72D8E25E17@gmx.de>

Hank,
thanks a lot, these are exactly the information I needed ?
Very much appreciated.
Cheers
Eric
Von meinem iPad gesendet

> Am 14.03.2020 um 08:00 schrieb gradea1 at charter.net:
> 
> Eric- the short bolt is the same as the ones used on the side cover: 5/16 x 22 BSF and about 7/8" long to the head. 2K3094
> Yes, Permatex Aviation is what I normally use. Lately I have been using the "High Tack". Use it on all gaskets and if the overdrive is apart at the brake ring do BOTH sides of the ring, but without a gasket...be careful not to get any inside the OD unit. Ignore passage in workshop manual telling you not to use sealant on ring...if you don't, it will leak.  These are 60 year old parts and they are tired. 
> 
> Best Regards, Hank (healeyhelper.com)
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "Eric Metzner" 
> To: gradea1 at charter.net
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 12:27:30PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Long bolt BN1 remote control housing
> 
> Oh, I?m a donut, just trusted the spare parts list without having a close look to what?s in front of me. Ordered a long bolt from an German Healey parts supplier - so they also do not know that there is a mislead.
> Hank, do you now how long the ?short? setscrew is?
> Related to the gaskets I normally use permatex Aviation 3h on both sides - do you think that will work - it?s the first time I?m doing a BN1 gearbox ?
> Thanks a lot in advance
> best regards 
> Eric
> 
> Von meinem iPad gesendet
> 
>> Am 12.03.2020 um 17:52 schrieb gradea1 at charter.net:
>> 
>> Actually there are 5 long bolts, setscrews (2K3109) that secure the control (9) to the side cover ((7) and one stud on the left-middle for a nut/spring washer... there is one short one (2K3097) on right-middle... the parts book is incorrect listing the long for the short. Three setscrews  (2K3094) on the left, then additionally hold the cover to the box.  See diagram. Remember the two gaskets and use sealant each side or they will leak.
>> Hank, healeyhelper.com
>> 
>> 
>> -----------------------------------------
>> 
>> From: "Eric Metzner" 
>> To: healeys at autox.team.net
>> Cc: 
>> Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 7:42:44AM
>> Subject: [Healeys] Long bolt BN1 remote control housing
>> 
>> Dear BN1 specialists,
>> I m wondering where the long bolt at the remote control housing at the BN1 gearbox goes to? Any hint would appreciated before I mess up my housing.
>> BR
>> Eric
> 
> <GB parts blowup.pdf>
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Sun Mar 15 09:15:36 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 15:15:36 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
Message-ID: <c6e2d6da-cb40-4708-ace4-81ad4456746c@me.com>

Bill,
???From the research I have been doing, I am finding that what you are saying here is correct. 0.003 seems to be the preferred clearance in the bore for the valve stem. As such I am being torn in a number of ways as to what I'm going to do. As I sit right now, I'm going to order the steel guides as I have already ordered the manganese-bronze ones, and take them to the shop where I'm going to have the work done.
???My final decision might be a coin toss, but more than likely with all the information, guidance and remarks I have heard here from fellows on the list, the 0.003 bore hasn't caused problems with those using them in cast iron heads. And who knows, maybe they will discover some minor cracks in my head and then I will have no choice but to go with the aluminum head and my worries will be over.?
???Bottom line, I can't thank you and others on this list enough for the education and guidance I'm getting. Confusion or not, this is still a fun experience made all the more so by folks in our community. Thank you all!
Cheers,
Steven Kingsbury?

On March 14, 2020 at 7:28 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:


Since the thermal expansion rates of bronze and iron are so different the bronze guide can be crushed by the iron surrounding it thus causing the valve stem to stick. The solution is to provide extra clearance in the guide, which kind of negates the benefit of replacing the guides in the first place. They do work well in alloy heads though.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2020 2:36:26 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
?

Steven, this is starting to make us both crazy. You have proved, nearly conclusively that the rings and valves are sealing. To be sure of those findings do this. On the offending cylinder rotate the valves in the guides to ascertain one of the heads isn't bent and only seals in one particular position. Second bring the piston to near TDC and push on it to see if it moves laterally more than intact rings would permit. Compare with the other pistons. This might indicate a broken or weak ring that doesn't show up under cranking. Lastly, yes a well worn cam lobe would indicate insufficient time for cylinder filling. You might also look in the radiator for air bubbles when cranking---another issue for gasket failure. Healey 4cyl? heads are notorious for leaking around the cyl bores esp with a solid copper gasket. There is a gasket outfit in Lubbock TX that can make individual rings, say 0.002-0.0025" to place over the gasket to provide extra squish around the bores. PS always check compression with the throttle wide open.? DP


On 3/13/2020 5:42 PM, Michael Salter wrote:

Bronze guides...
https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/05/15/bronze-giudes-in-cast-iron-cylinder-heads/



On Sat, Mar 14, 2020, 12:17 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

This is the first I have ever heard about the bronze valve guides being crushed. I had always heard they were the better ones and they are by far the more expensive. Not that money and/or expensive makes something better. I have heard though, that they are better, so this is a surprise.?
???And yes, I will be checking everything over with a fine tooth comb all this weekend. With the amount of carbon I found on the valves I am for sure going to be checking the piston rings even though the cylinder walls are quite pristine. The reason? Finding less than stellar workmanship in the previous work done of this engine, I just don't trust that the rings were done correctly to begin with and since I'm here, I'm going to check.? Peace of mind will be well worth it.
Steven

On March 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:


Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides in an iron head. These can cause problems due to the different thermal expansion rates of the materials. The iron can crush the bronze and cause the valve to stick.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2020 8:19:28 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
?

Measure the bores in several places first. If no significant wear is apparent leave the pistons and rings well alone. Also look for ridges near the top of the bores. If they are not present, wear is not very likely. If the bores are fine, piston ring wear is not likely. Valves do rock a bit in the guides. They need to, they expand in the guides when the engine is running. You may or may not use cap seals on the valve guides.


If there is wear in the cylinders however have the block rebored and fit new pistons and rings


Burning some oil is nothing to worry about on the old engines. When new 1ltr per 1000km (about 1 qrt per 500mls) was quite permissible (after running in during which oil consumption could be much higher). Check the crank case ventilation system, when dirty/blocked it can be a cause of considerable oil consumption. Anyway you probably loose most oil leaking. Overfilling the sump is another cause of oil consumption as excessive oil will be expelled through the crank case ventilation system


The head should be dead straight but the surface does not need to be super smooth. In most causes you can see feel the milling marks.

Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice if the bottom end comes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in time you will save on grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank pins in various places and check if these are within limits.


Kees Oudesluijs




Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:

Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.
???I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.?
???I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
???Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
???Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun project.
Steven Kingsbury
? ??

On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:


Hank


The fact that number 2 exhaust valve?is not the same colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost? clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.


Best regards


On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

Hi Steven-good to hear from you!

That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend? NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach






-----------------------------------------

From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
To: healeys at autox.teamnet
Cc:
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!


Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.
???So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.?
???So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.?
???I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obvious.?
???I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.


Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sat there.




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From ah100register at gmail.com  Sun Mar 15 10:23:30 2020
From: ah100register at gmail.com (John Harper)
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 16:23:30 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <c6e2d6da-cb40-4708-ace4-81ad4456746c@me.com>
References: <c6e2d6da-cb40-4708-ace4-81ad4456746c@me.com>
Message-ID: <CAL1OyxerM-VOK6Nkwb1DCvWRy3sGQJcjepG6XkAUiE_Ld1i3VA@mail.gmail.com>

Stephen

Just for interest the diesel version of our engine uses bronze valve guides

best regards

On Sun, 15 Mar 2020 at 15:15, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Bill,
>    From the research I have been doing, I am finding that what you are
> saying here is correct. 0.003 seems to be the preferred clearance in the
> bore for the valve stem. As such I am being torn in a number of ways as to
> what I'm going to do. As I sit right now, I'm going to order the steel
> guides as I have already ordered the manganese-bronze ones, and take them
> to the shop where I'm going to have the work done.
>    My final decision might be a coin toss, but more than likely with all
> the information, guidance and remarks I have heard here from fellows on the
> list, the 0.003 bore hasn't caused problems with those using them in cast
> iron heads. And who knows, maybe they will discover some minor cracks in my
> head and then I will have no choice but to go with the aluminum head and my
> worries will be over.
>    Bottom line, I can't thank you and others on this list enough for the
> education and guidance I'm getting. Confusion or not, this is still a fun
> experience made all the more so by folks in our community. Thank you all!
> Cheers,
> Steven Kingsbury
>
> On March 14, 2020 at 7:28 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
>
> Since the thermal expansion rates of bronze and iron are so different the
> bronze guide can be crushed by the iron surrounding it thus causing the
> valve stem to stick. The solution is to provide extra clearance in the
> guide, which kind of negates the benefit of replacing the guides in the
> first place. They do work well in alloy heads though.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David P <
> frogeye at porterscustom.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 14, 2020 2:36:26 PM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>
>
> Steven, this is starting to make us both crazy. You have proved, nearly
> conclusively that the rings and valves are sealing. To be sure of those
> findings do this. On the offending cylinder rotate the valves in the guides
> to ascertain one of the heads isn't bent and only seals in one particular
> position. Second bring the piston to near TDC and push on it to see if it
> moves laterally more than intact rings would permit. Compare with the other
> pistons. This might indicate a broken or weak ring that doesn't show up
> under cranking. Lastly, yes a well worn cam lobe would indicate
> insufficient time for cylinder filling. You might also look in the radiator
> for air bubbles when cranking---another issue for gasket failure. Healey
> 4cyl  heads are notorious for leaking around the cyl bores esp with a solid
> copper gasket. There is a gasket outfit in Lubbock TX that can make
> individual rings, say 0.002-0.0025" to place over the gasket to provide
> extra squish around the bores. PS always check compression with the
> throttle wide open.  DP
> On 3/13/2020 5:42 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> Bronze guides...
>
> https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/05/15/bronze-giudes-in-cast-iron-cylinder-heads/
>
> On Sat, Mar 14, 2020, 12:17 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> This is the first I have ever heard about the bronze valve guides being
> crushed. I had always heard they were the better ones and they are by far
> the more expensive. Not that money and/or expensive makes something better.
> I have heard though, that they are better, so this is a surprise.
>    And yes, I will be checking everything over with a fine tooth comb all
> this weekend. With the amount of carbon I found on the valves I am for sure
> going to be checking the piston rings even though the cylinder walls are
> quite pristine. The reason? Finding less than stellar workmanship in the
> previous work done of this engine, I just don't trust that the rings were
> done correctly to begin with and since I'm here, I'm going to check.  Peace
> of mind will be well worth it.
> Steven
>
> On March 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
>
> Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides in an iron
> head. These can cause problems due to the different thermal expansion rates
> of the materials. The iron can crush the bronze and cause the valve to
> stick.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees
> Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> *Sent:* Friday, March 13, 2020 8:19:28 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>
>
> Measure the bores in several places first. If no significant wear is
> apparent leave the pistons and rings well alone. Also look for ridges near
> the top of the bores. If they are not present, wear is not very likely. If
> the bores are fine, piston ring wear is not likely. Valves do rock a bit in
> the guides. They need to, they expand in the guides when the engine is
> running. You may or may not use cap seals on the valve guides.
>
> If there is wear in the cylinders however have the block rebored and fit
> new pistons and rings
>
> Burning some oil is nothing to worry about on the old engines. When new
> 1ltr per 1000km (about 1 qrt per 500mls) was quite permissible (after
> running in during which oil consumption could be much higher). Check the
> crank case ventilation system, when dirty/blocked it can be a cause of
> considerable oil consumption. Anyway you probably loose most oil leaking.
> Overfilling the sump is another cause of oil consumption as excessive oil
> will be expelled through the crank case ventilation system
>
> The head should be dead straight but the surface does not need to be super
> smooth. In most causes you can see feel the milling marks.
>
> Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice if the bottom end
> comes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in time you will save on
> grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank pins in various places and check
> if these are within limits.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:
>
> Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the
> valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of
> burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to
> redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new
> valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem
> to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is
> straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head
> to make it super smooth.
>    I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block
> and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure
> it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.
>    I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close
> up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in
> for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
>    Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I
> will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it
> seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
>    Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually
> quite the fun project.
> Steven Kingsbury
>
>
> On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register at gmail.com>
> <ah100register at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hank
>
> The fact that number 2 exhaust valve is not the same colour as the others
> might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking
> for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost  clearance. A partially
> seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but
> it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any
> burning on the working face.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Steven-good to hear from you!
>
> That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3
> and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped
> head...especially if valves and rings checked good.
>
> Also, I don't recommend  NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of
> carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods
> bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.
>
> Regards, Hank Leach
>
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
> To: healeys at autox.teamnet
> Cc:
> Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>
> Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I
> had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in
> cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem
> with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than
> number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it
> looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls
> smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on
> the top, but other than that and good.
>    So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled
> the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out.
> Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than
> evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.
>    So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even
> position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick
> leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally
> drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.
>    I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an
> old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in
> the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me
> some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a
> magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not
> there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference,
> something would be obvious.
>    I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect
> all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit
> perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some
> photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.
>
> [image: IMG_20200311_143602.jpg]
> Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number
> two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
> [image: IMG_20200311_172123.jpg]
> And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain
> out and just sat there.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
> --
> Best wishes
>
> John Harper
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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> --
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>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Mar 15 10:37:20 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 09:37:20 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
In-Reply-To: <c6e2d6da-cb40-4708-ace4-81ad4456746c@me.com>
References: <c6e2d6da-cb40-4708-ace4-81ad4456746c@me.com>
Message-ID: <d66d4ced-f5b5-bd67-9afe-40e7bd513f5d@comcast.net>

FWIW, I've used manganese-bronze guides--two sets--in my BJ8 for about 
120K miles with nary a problem with the valve train.? For my last 
overhaul, about 6K miles ago, my overhauler/machinist didn't bat an eye 
when I brought the guides to him, and they are a highly-respected 
performance shop.

TBH, I never gave my choice a lot of thought, it just seemed bronze was 
the way to go.? Extensive research--okay, 10 minutes of searching the 
interwebs--yielded a qualitative answer:

"Cast iron cannot be used with stainless steel [valves] because of its 
tendency to gall."? ([] mine)

- https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013/04/valve-seats-guides/

Again, I never gave it a thought, but went with stainless exhaust valves 
since that seems to be the predominant option.


Bob


On 3/15/2020 8:15 AM, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys wrote:
> Bill,
> ???From the research I have been doing, I am finding that what you are 
> saying here is correct. 0.003 seems to be the preferred clearance in 
> the bore for the valve stem. As such I am being torn in a number of 
> ways as to what I'm going to do. As I sit right now, I'm going to 
> order the steel guides as I have already ordered the manganese-bronze 
> ones, and take them to the shop where I'm going to have the work done.
> ???My final decision might be a coin toss, but more than likely with 
> all the information, guidance and remarks I have heard here from 
> fellows on the list, the 0.003 bore hasn't caused problems with those 
> using them in cast iron heads. And who knows, maybe they will discover 
> some minor cracks in my head and then I will have no choice but to go 
> with the aluminum head and my worries will be over.
> ???Bottom line, I can't thank you and others on this list enough for 
> the education and guidance I'm getting. Confusion or not, this is 
> still a fun experience made all the more so by folks in our community. 
> Thank you all!
> Cheers,
> Steven Kingsbury
>
> On March 14, 2020 at 7:28 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink at msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Since the thermal expansion rates of bronze and iron are so different 
>> the bronze guide can be crushed by the iron surrounding it thus 
>> causing the valve stem to stick. The solution is to provide extra 
>> clearance in the guide, which kind of negates the benefit of 
>> replacing the guides in the first place. They do work well in alloy 
>> heads though.
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>> BN1 #554
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of David P 
>> <frogeye at porterscustom.com>
>> *Sent:* Saturday, March 14, 2020 2:36:26 PM
>> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>>
>> Steven, this is starting to make us both crazy. You have proved, 
>> nearly conclusively that the rings and valves are sealing. To be sure 
>> of those findings do this. On the offending cylinder rotate the 
>> valves in the guides to ascertain one of the heads isn't bent and 
>> only seals in one particular position. Second bring the piston to 
>> near TDC and push on it to see if it moves laterally more than intact 
>> rings would permit. Compare with the other pistons. This might 
>> indicate a broken or weak ring that doesn't show up under cranking. 
>> Lastly, yes a well worn cam lobe would indicate insufficient time for 
>> cylinder filling. You might also look in the radiator for air bubbles 
>> when cranking---another issue for gasket failure. Healey 4cyl? heads 
>> are notorious for leaking around the cyl bores esp with a solid 
>> copper gasket. There is a gasket outfit in Lubbock TX that can make 
>> individual rings, say 0.002-0.0025" to place over the gasket to 
>> provide extra squish around the bores. PS always check compression 
>> with the throttle wide open. DP
>>
>> On 3/13/2020 5:42 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>> Bronze guides...
>>> https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/05/15/bronze-giudes-in-cast-iron-cylinder-heads/
>>>
>>> On Sat, Mar 14, 2020, 12:17 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, 
>>> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>
>>>     This is the first I have ever heard about the bronze valve
>>>     guides being crushed. I had always heard they were the better
>>>     ones and they are by far the more expensive. Not that money
>>>     and/or expensive makes something better. I have heard though,
>>>     that they are better, so this is a surprise.
>>>     ???And yes, I will be checking everything over with a fine tooth
>>>     comb all this weekend. With the amount of carbon I found on the
>>>     valves I am for sure going to be checking the piston rings even
>>>     though the cylinder walls are quite pristine. The reason?
>>>     Finding less than stellar workmanship in the previous work done
>>>     of this engine, I just don't trust that the rings were done
>>>     correctly to begin with and since I'm here, I'm going to check.?
>>>     Peace of mind will be well worth it.
>>>     Steven
>>>
>>>     On March 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
>>>     <ynotink at msn.com <mailto:ynotink at msn.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>>>     Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides
>>>>     in an iron head. These can cause problems due to the different
>>>>     thermal expansion rates of the materials. The iron can crush
>>>>     the bronze and cause the valve to stick.
>>>>
>>>>     Bill Lawrence
>>>>     BN1 #554
>>>>     ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>>>>         <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>>>>>         http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>>>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>>>
>>>>>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com
>>>>>>         <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100register at gmail.com>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>     -- 
>>>>>>     Best wishes
>>>>>>
>>>>>>     John Harper
>>>>>>
>>>>>>     AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>>>>>

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Mar 15 14:52:15 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 20:52:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] early Healey 100
Message-ID: <4ecd07df72c14626c6559c828b63c27776dc34b3@webmail>

The bogus BN3 was purchased by Kurt Tanner in LA and is cleaned up and
swept out ready for sale now on ebay Item Number372982430277Seller
assumes all responsibility for this listing.Comes with an original 100
engine and trans to return to normal-what a project! Hank,
healeyhelper.com
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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sun Mar 15 16:16:52 2020
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 22:16:52 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] Re" Healey Literature
Message-ID: <20200315.181652.28395.0@webmail10.dca.untd.com>

I have available, individually, for best offer, the following: 1) Healey The handsome Brute. 2 copies in excellent condition, Chris Harvey (1978) 2) Die Healeys Collectors Guide BandII, Graham Robson, in German (1988)  3) Illustrated Austin-Healey Buyer"s Guide, Richard Newton, (1984) 4) Healey History. This book was originally published a gift to the members of Austin Healey Owner's Club Netherland, on the occasion of the second anniversary. 5) Austin-healey Freunde stickers (3) Will go with 1) or 3) as requested. All are in excellent condition. Thanks.  Cheers, Doug 
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From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Sun Mar 15 17:55:44 2020
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 16:55:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Lawsuit Pending?
Message-ID: <62023658442049C2AFDF839749FA541A@LeonardPCPC>


The new healthcare proposal is named American Health Care Act - AHCA.  Are there grounds for a lawsuit by the Austin-Healey Club of America - AHCA - for copyright infringement, cultural appropriation, or whatever a good lawyer can come up with these days?  

Above submitted without political, racial, sexual leanings, or any other popular adjective of the day.
No financial interest (unless it's a class action lawsuit)
And with tongue firmly planted in cheek.

(The Other) Len          
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
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From r.alkins001 at comcast.net  Sun Mar 15 18:23:34 2020
From: r.alkins001 at comcast.net (Randy)
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 20:23:34 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Lawsuit Pending?
Message-ID: <a7905a76-358c-4afa-b1ee-ceedf39dc798@iPhone>

It will be titled .gov

Sent from Xfinity Connect App

------ Original Message ------

From: Len and/or Marge Hartnett
To: AH Mail List
Sent: March 15, 2020 at 7:56 PM
Subject: [Healeys] Lawsuit Pending?

The new healthcare proposal is named American Health Care Act - AHCA. Are there grounds for a lawsuit by the Austin-Healey Club of America - AHCA - for copyright infringement, cultural appropriation, or whatever a good lawyer can come up with these days?

Above submitted without political, racial, sexual leanings, or any other popular adjective of the day.
No financial interest (unless it's a class action lawsuit)
And with tongue firmly planted in cheek.

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/r.alkins001 at comcast.net
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From tfsbj7 at gmail.com  Mon Mar 16 17:35:58 2020
From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (skip saunders)
Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2020 19:35:58 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity
In-Reply-To: <019501d5f433$44371e30$cca55a90$@rr.com>
References: <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$.ref@verizon.net>
 <004a01d5f428$856e5f90$904b1eb0$@verizon.net>
 <019501d5f433$44371e30$cca55a90$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <004601d5fbeb$a60d8d50$f228a7f0$@gmail.com>

Does anyone know if the starter motor wiring needs to be changed when making
this polarity swap?    For example:  If one has fit the car with one of the
high torque starter motors, is it necessary to modify wiring to the starter?

 

Thanks

-skip-

BJ8

 

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Max Byers
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 10:48 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Polarity

 

See attachment.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of ahbn6---
via Healeys
Sent: Friday, March 6, 2020 9:32 PM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Polarity

 

Is there any step by instructions on how to change to negative ground?

 

John Sims

www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/> 

Matawan, NJ

 

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From tfsbj7 at gmail.com  Mon Mar 16 17:40:55 2020
From: tfsbj7 at gmail.com (skip saunders)
Date: Mon, 16 Mar 2020 19:40:55 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] polarity of starter motors-nevermind
Message-ID: <003001d5fbec$56bc6ae0$043540a0$@gmail.com>

Nevermind. I figured it out myself.

(power goes to armature and coils simultaneously..if one is reversed, so is
the other.  Result: motor always turns the proper direction.)

 

Thanks

-skip-

BJ8

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From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Tue Mar 17 10:56:35 2020
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2020 09:56:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Birthday Greetings
Message-ID: <A4A04A1651EA4D329CD6CF21FDFF134E@LeonardPCPC>


Happy birthday to you,
Happy birthday to you,
Happy birthday dear BJ8L39031,
Happy birthday to you.

Repeat

I am singing that twice as I wash my hands and wish my BJ8 a Happy Birthday.

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
           221,166 miles
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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Tue Mar 17 12:17:19 2020
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2020 11:17:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Birthday Greetings
In-Reply-To: <A4A04A1651EA4D329CD6CF21FDFF134E@LeonardPCPC>
References: <A4A04A1651EA4D329CD6CF21FDFF134E@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <6c825c4d-ea50-0953-c015-9dcacf4e7444@comcast.net>

Very good.? Mine's birthday is next week. I'll save this.

Be safe.? One of my neighbors showed up at the clubhouse today with a 
six-foot stick.

Mike

On 3/17/2020 9:56 AM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote:
> Happy birthday to you,
> Happy birthday to you,
> Happy birthday?dear BJ8L39031,
> Happy birthday to you.
> Repeat
> I am singing that twice as?I wash my hands and wish my BJ8 a Happy 
> Birthday.
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
> ?????????? 221,166 miles
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Tue Mar 17 12:21:21 2020
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2020 18:21:21 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Birthday Greetings
Message-ID: <aa61d790-3982-4bd2-9dfc-4e49cfcc9f7e@me.com>

And I'm not touching that line with a ten foot pole!
Steven

On March 17, 2020 at 11:18 AM, Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:



Very good.? Mine's birthday is next week.? I'll save this.

Be safe.? One of my neighbors showed up at the clubhouse today with a six-foot stick.


Mike


On 3/17/2020 9:56 AM, Len and/or Marge Hartnett wrote:

?
Happy birthday to you,
Happy birthday to you,
Happy birthday?dear BJ8L39031,
Happy birthday to you.
?
Repeat
?
I am singing that twice as?I wash my hands and wish my BJ8 a Happy Birthday.
?
(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
?????????? 221,166 miles


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net




	Virus-free. www.avg.com
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com

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From m.fawcett at cox.net  Tue Mar 17 12:45:37 2020
From: m.fawcett at cox.net (Mark Fawcett)
Date: Tue, 17 Mar 2020 11:45:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Birthday Greetings
In-Reply-To: <A4A04A1651EA4D329CD6CF21FDFF134E@LeonardPCPC>
References: <A4A04A1651EA4D329CD6CF21FDFF134E@LeonardPCPC>
Message-ID: <CAMoKZw_WFXumhPzMCRtrEkWU5-zTzD9vAFELDbsWNvS4md17Dg@mail.gmail.com>

Gee thanks, my birthday was yesterday.

Mark Fawcett

On Tue, Mar 17, 2020 at 9:56 AM Len and/or Marge Hartnett <
thehartnetts at earthlink.net> wrote:

>
> Happy birthday to you,
> Happy birthday to you,
> Happy birthday dear BJ8L39031,
> Happy birthday to you.
>
> Repeat
>
> I am singing that twice as I wash my hands and wish my BJ8 a Happy
> Birthday.
>
> (The Other) Len
> Fairfield, CA, USA
> 1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031
>            221,166 miles
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.fawcett at cox.net
>
>
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From crice_home at glasgow-ky.com  Wed Mar 18 23:11:27 2020
From: crice_home at glasgow-ky.com (Charles Rice)
Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2020 00:11:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
Message-ID: <003501d5fdac$d830b290$889217b0$@glasgow-ky.com>

Thought I'd give closure to my adventures with Denis Welch.  Recalling, some
weeks ago, I tried to order an aluminum head & accessories and pay with
VISA.

Welch rejected the VISA, telling me to deposit the money to their bank, in
Pound Sterling only!  My bank couldn't do that, so I set up a service (AFEX)
that could do this

at a reasonable rate. Last Friday, at the last minute, I get an email from
Welch saying they could take my VISA, but only over the phone!  I only have
a cellphone,

which won't let me call overseas, but they can call me!  I emailed them to
call me immediately, which they did. The shipment arrived Tuesday, I had to
pay UPS a $45 "import fee."

No mention (yet) of sales tax.  So, all is well.  Thanks for all the replies
& advice.  Hope to get it installed in a week or so.  



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar 19 00:00:12 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Wed, 18 Mar 2020 23:00:12 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch
In-Reply-To: <003501d5fdac$d830b290$889217b0$@glasgow-ky.com>
References: <003501d5fdac$d830b290$889217b0$@glasgow-ky.com>
Message-ID: <000001d5fdb3$a808cce0$f81a66a0$@sbcglobal.net>

Good news.

 

Get a Skype prepaid phone account for international calls. Better yet:

 

Get WhatsApp and make international calls to whomever has the App over the
internet or Wi-Fi for free. Most foreign business I have dealt with have it.
You can even make video calls so the Merchant can show you the part, or
whatever.

 

Disclaimer:

I receive .0000000001293 in bitcoins for whomever installs WhatsApp and
mentions this email.

 

 

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Charles
Rice
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2020 10:11 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch

 

Thought I'd give closure to my adventures with Denis Welch.  Recalling, some
weeks ago, I tried to order an aluminum head & accessories and pay with
VISA.

Welch rejected the VISA, telling me to deposit the money to their bank, in
Pound Sterling only!  My bank couldn't do that, so I set up a service (AFEX)
that could do this

at a reasonable rate. Last Friday, at the last minute, I get an email from
Welch saying they could take my VISA, but only over the phone!  I only have
a cellphone,

which won't let me call overseas, but they can call me!  I emailed them to
call me immediately, which they did. The shipment arrived Tuesday, I had to
pay UPS a $45 "import fee."

No mention (yet) of sales tax.  So, all is well.  Thanks for all the replies
& advice.  Hope to get it installed in a week or so.  

 


 
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campai
gn=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon> 

Virus-free.
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campai
gn=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=link> www.avast.com 

 

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Thu Mar 19 06:21:45 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2020 08:21:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Ordering from Denis Welch
References: <003501d5fdac$d830b290$889217b0$@glasgow-ky.com> 
Message-ID: <02d601d5fde8$f55906b0$e00b1410$@gmail.com>

 

 

Charles and others:

 

I cannot believe the Denis Welch is still using such a convoluted method of
ordering, shipping and payments for their international customers, when so
many other U.K. suppliers are up to date on servicing their customers.  The
US must be their largest potential market, yet, they do not seem to make it
easy for them with more expensive shipping, add on fees and so on.

 

Just my thought since I spend over 40 years traveling the world servicing
customers with American Product.

 

Bob Begani

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Charles Rice
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2020 1:11 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Ordering from Denis Welch

 

Thought I'd give closure to my adventures with Denis Welch.  Recalling, some
weeks ago, I tried to order an aluminum head & accessories and pay with
VISA.

Welch rejected the VISA, telling me to deposit the money to their bank, in
Pound Sterling only!  My bank couldn't do that, so I set up a service (AFEX)
that could do this

at a reasonable rate. Last Friday, at the last minute, I get an email from
Welch saying they could take my VISA, but only over the phone!  I only have
a cellphone,

which won't let me call overseas, but they can call me!  I emailed them to
call me immediately, which they did. The shipment arrived Tuesday, I had to
pay UPS a $45 "import fee."

No mention (yet) of sales tax.  So, all is well.  Thanks for all the replies
& advice.  Hope to get it installed in a week or so.  

 


 
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campai
gn=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=icon> 

Virus-free.
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campai
gn=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient&utm_term=link> www.avast.com 

 

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Mar 19 07:07:16 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2020 09:07:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] John Wheatley
Message-ID: <mailman.50.1584623243.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
Just heard this morning that our old friend, John Wheatley, has passed.  I have no details. Rest in peace and Aloha.
Perry


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Thu Mar 19 15:18:08 2020
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2020 17:18:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] John Wheatley
In-Reply-To: <20200319131753.F1621A0D90@autox.team.net>
References: <20200319131753.F1621A0D90@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <c7dbea82-f333-10f7-041c-19d8ecb7efda@earthlink.net>

A few additional details from the Austin Healey Club Midlands:

It is with great sadness that today we have heard  that John Wheatley 
passed away on Saturday 14th March 2020.

Our prayers and thoughts are with Heather & his family.

Funeral arrangements to follow.

We ask that you do not phone the family and if you wish to send your 
condolances or any other correspondence please send to the
Secretary of Austin Healey Club  (secretary at austinhealeyclub.com) and 
these will be passed on to the family

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 3/19/20 9:07 AM, Perry via Healeys wrote:
> Listers
> 
> Just heard this morning that our old friend, John Wheatley, has passed.  
> I have no details. Rest in peace and Aloha.
> 
> Perry
> 
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> 

From roggrace at telus.net  Thu Mar 19 22:21:24 2020
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2020 22:21:24 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Crush Washers
Message-ID: <1427126816.39235216.1584678084734.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>

Looking for some advice.Am in the process of chasing down an old leak on the front/gen. side cover on my BJ8.Plan is a new gasket with Hylomar; new bolts with thread sealant and new crush washers.Query is tighening and orientation of the crush washers. Harold suggested snugging them up then about another 1/4 turn.Is there perhaps an accepted torque setting ?Also correct orientation of the washers - they don't appear to be symmetrical - there is thinner side about the center.
Help as always appreciated,rg
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu Mar 19 22:45:30 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Thu, 19 Mar 2020 21:45:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crush Washers
In-Reply-To: <1427126816.39235216.1584678084734.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
References: <1427126816.39235216.1584678084734.JavaMail.zimbra@mailid.telus.net>
Message-ID: <000501d5fe72$62edb4d0$28c91e70$@sbcglobal.net>

The standard copper washers should work fine to seal the bolt head. However, you need to use new ones or anneal the old ones before you reuse them. Heat them up until they are red hot and immediately quench them in cold water. Also, don?t over torque the bolt.

js

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Roger Grace
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2020 9:21 PM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Crush Washers

 

Looking for some advice.

Am in the process of chasing down an old leak on the front/gen. side cover on my BJ8.

Plan is a new gasket with Hylomar; new bolts with thread sealant and new crush washers.

 

Query is tighening and orientation of the crush washers. Harold suggested snugging them up then about another 1/4 turn.

Is there perhaps an accepted torque setting ?

Also correct orientation of the washers - they don't appear to be symmetrical - there is thinner side about the center.

 

Help as always appreciated,

rg

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri Mar 20 09:54:56 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Mar 2020 15:54:56 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Join our club
Message-ID: <000001d5fecf$e81d7e30$b8587a90$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Unashamed plug for our locally based club. Actually, although its roots are
in the South West of England, its membership is pretty cosmopolitan.

Simon

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From dwflagg at juno.com  Sat Mar 21 09:54:22 2020
From: dwflagg at juno.com (dwflagg at juno.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 15:54:22 GMT
Subject: [Healeys] Posters
Message-ID: <20200321.115422.17079.0@webmail11.dca.untd.com>

The attached 3 posters. are aviable to the first reply for the cost of shipping (heavy duty mailer tube). Thanks and be safe!! Doug
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From blkbt7 at yahoo.com  Sat Mar 21 11:36:50 2020
From: blkbt7 at yahoo.com (ROBERT BROWN)
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 13:36:50 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Tach
References: <9045C087-4829-49BE-81AD-44416B2004DD.ref@yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9045C087-4829-49BE-81AD-44416B2004DD@yahoo.com>

Anyone have Sprite MKIV negative ground tach laying around that you would part with for a reasonable price?
Thanks
Bob in S FL

Sent from my iPhone

From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Mar 21 14:58:13 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sat, 21 Mar 2020 16:58:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite Tach
References: <3EF386DA-0206-44F8-9765-8164ED81A619.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <3EF386DA-0206-44F8-9765-8164ED81A619@aol.com>

Bob 
Have one in decent shape. Email off list if interested. 
Perry

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Mar 23 18:17:29 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 00:17:29 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>

Has anyone installed one of the new master shut off switch that Moss sells in the last year or two?? Have you had any problems with it?? Trying to decide if I should invest in a repro like the recent Moss offering or try to find an NOS switch, if I can.Mike MacLea56 BN2

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From manifold at telus.net  Mon Mar 23 19:06:04 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 18:06:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CF954A89887645478AC62ACF47C362E2@AllInOne>

Mike,
 
I recently installed this Master Switch from AH Spares. I am happy with the
results and the look. I can send a picture if you like. The only issue I had
was the studs were slightly larger diameter than the hole in the battery
cable and I had to drill it to match.
 
https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/electrical-switches/batt
ery-master-switch.aspx
 
Regards... Harold

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
MacLean
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2020 5:17 PM
To: Healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch


Has anyone installed one of the new master shut off switch that Moss sells
in the last year or two?  Have you had any problems with it?  Trying to
decide if I should invest in a repro like the recent Moss offering or try to
find an NOS switch, if I can. 
Mike MacLea
56 BN2


Sent
<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_And
roidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&
af_sub3=EmailSignature> from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Mar 23 21:04:18 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 20:04:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88Zg4E6qe+3x7hJJ0LaodBrPR7E7KoZaF5U1CmtQ-tJqQ@mail.gmail.com>

I replaced mine two or three years ago, as my rebuilding the oem unit
failed after a while. I had to open up the hole in the bracket as the body
of the new one was a bit larger. Not sure why the repops can't be exactly
the same?

On Mon, Mar 23, 2020, 5:18 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> Has anyone installed one of the new master shut off switch that Moss sells
> in the last year or two?  Have you had any problems with it?  Trying to
> decide if I should invest in a repro like the recent Moss offering or try
> to find an NOS switch, if I can.
> Mike MacLea
> 56 BN2
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Mar 23 22:17:53 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 04:17:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88Zg4E6qe+3x7hJJ0LaodBrPR7E7KoZaF5U1CmtQ-tJqQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CABXhz88Zg4E6qe+3x7hJJ0LaodBrPR7E7KoZaF5U1CmtQ-tJqQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR15MB1847377D28E38A581DEA854EA5F10@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

I bought one from Woolies in U.K. that was identical to original except that the knob was longer. I was able to remove the knob and shaft from the new switch and replace it with the one from my old switch. Perfect match and the price was lower than any I?ve seen from US suppliers.
They seem to have good pricing on a lot of Lucas stuff.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 3:04 AM
To: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

I replaced mine two or three years ago, as my rebuilding the oem unit failed after a while. I had to open up the hole in the bracket as the body of the new one was a bit larger. Not sure why the repops can't be exactly the same?

On Mon, Mar 23, 2020, 5:18 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>> wrote:
Has anyone installed one of the new master shut off switch that Moss sells in the last year or two?  Have you had any problems with it?  Trying to decide if I should invest in a repro like the recent Moss offering or try to find an NOS switch, if I can.
Mike MacLea
56 BN2

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar 23 23:14:18 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 22:14:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR15MB1847377D28E38A581DEA854EA5F10@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CABXhz88Zg4E6qe+3x7hJJ0LaodBrPR7E7KoZaF5U1CmtQ-tJqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR15MB1847377D28E38A581DEA854EA5F10@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <001601d6019b$15432950$3fc97bf0$@sbcglobal.net>

I have a 1962 BT7 tricarb and the longer knob is correct for that model.

 

John Spaur

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2020 9:18 PM
To: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

I bought one from Woolies in U.K. that was identical to original except that
the knob was longer. I was able to remove the knob and shaft from the new
switch and replace it with the one from my old switch. Perfect match and the
price was lower than any I've seen from US suppliers.

They seem to have good pricing on a lot of Lucas stuff.

 

Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

 

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of i erbs
<eyera3000 at gmail.com <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com> >
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 3:04 AM
To: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> >
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch 

 

I replaced mine two or three years ago, as my rebuilding the oem unit failed
after a while. I had to open up the hole in the bracket as the body of the
new one was a bit larger. Not sure why the repops can't be exactly the same?

 

On Mon, Mar 23, 2020, 5:18 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net
<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> > wrote:

Has anyone installed one of the new master shut off switch that Moss sells
in the last year or two?  Have you had any problems with it?  Trying to
decide if I should invest in a repro like the recent Moss offering or try to
find an NOS switch, if I can. 

Mike MacLea

56 BN2

Sent from AT
<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_And
roidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&
af_sub3=EmailSignature> &T Yahoo Mail on Android

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Mar 23 23:14:18 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 2020 22:14:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR15MB1847377D28E38A581DEA854EA5F10@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CABXhz88Zg4E6qe+3x7hJJ0LaodBrPR7E7KoZaF5U1CmtQ-tJqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR15MB1847377D28E38A581DEA854EA5F10@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <001601d6019b$15432950$3fc97bf0$@sbcglobal.net>

I have a 1962 BT7 tricarb and the longer knob is correct for that model.

 

John Spaur

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2020 9:18 PM
To: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

I bought one from Woolies in U.K. that was identical to original except that
the knob was longer. I was able to remove the knob and shaft from the new
switch and replace it with the one from my old switch. Perfect match and the
price was lower than any I've seen from US suppliers.

They seem to have good pricing on a lot of Lucas stuff.

 

Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

 

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of i erbs
<eyera3000 at gmail.com <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com> >
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 3:04 AM
To: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> >
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch 

 

I replaced mine two or three years ago, as my rebuilding the oem unit failed
after a while. I had to open up the hole in the bracket as the body of the
new one was a bit larger. Not sure why the repops can't be exactly the same?

 

On Mon, Mar 23, 2020, 5:18 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net
<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> > wrote:

Has anyone installed one of the new master shut off switch that Moss sells
in the last year or two?  Have you had any problems with it?  Trying to
decide if I should invest in a repro like the recent Moss offering or try to
find an NOS switch, if I can. 

Mike MacLea

56 BN2

Sent from AT
<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_And
roidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&
af_sub3=EmailSignature> &T Yahoo Mail on Android

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Mar 24 08:33:45 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 10:33:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox and Overdrive
Message-ID: <mailman.54.1585060430.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
Sorry if two copies of this listing showed up today. 

Anyone bought or sold a BJ8 gearbox and overdrive recently. Have had one on the shelf 
for about 20+ years and looking for a price range.? Surprisingly 
didn?t find much pricing info in my search. About 60K miles on the car 
it came out of. That doesn?t mean that the trans is original to the 
car. Looks good or I wouldn?t have kept it all these years. ?Thanks. 
Off list is OK.

 Perry


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Tue Mar 24 14:56:57 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 07:56:57 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox and Overdrive
In-Reply-To: <20200324143409.6B65EA1372@autox.team.net>
References: <20200324143409.6B65EA1372@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <004901d6021e$c26a5030$473ef090$@tpg.com.au>

Hello Perry

 

In this part of the world a rebuilt BJ8 gearbox and overdrive would go for around Au$4,500 and one like yours for around half that or a bit more depending on condition

 

Hoo Roo and stay safe

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, 25 March 2020 1:34 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox and Overdrive

 

Listers

Sorry if two copies of this listing showed up today. 

 

Anyone bought or sold a BJ8 gearbox and overdrive recently. Have had one on the shelf 

for about 20+ years and looking for a price range.  Surprisingly 

didn?t find much pricing info in my search. About 60K miles on the car 

it came out of. That doesn?t mean that the trans is original to the 

car. Looks good or I wouldn?t have kept it all these years.  Thanks. 

Off list is OK.

 

Perry

 

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Mar 24 15:41:12 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 10:41:12 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox and Overdrive
In-Reply-To: <004901d6021e$c26a5030$473ef090$@tpg.com.au>
References: <20200324143409.6B65EA1372@autox.team.net>
 <004901d6021e$c26a5030$473ef090$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK9jbtSeJwL60B7VMwzK71n8k8csgyJU6HMYH+PDXvrVw@mail.gmail.com>

BJ8 engines are becoming very difficult to source Perry.
I get lots of enquiries but have only 1 short block in my stuff.
I would imagine $4 - 7K depending on condition.

M


On Wed, Mar 25, 2020, 9:57 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
wrote:

> Hello Perry
>
>
>
> In this part of the world a rebuilt BJ8 gearbox and overdrive would go for
> around Au$4,500 and one like yours for around half that or a bit more
> depending on condition
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo and stay safe
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Perry
> via Healeys
> *Sent:* Wednesday, 25 March 2020 1:34 AM
> *To:* healeys at autox.team.net
> *Subject:* [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox and Overdrive
>
>
>
> Listers
>
> Sorry if two copies of this listing showed up today.
>
>
>
> Anyone bought or sold a BJ8 gearbox and overdrive recently. Have had one
> on the shelf
>
> for about 20+ years and looking for a price range.  Surprisingly
>
> didn?t find much pricing info in my search. About 60K miles on the car
>
> it came out of. That doesn?t mean that the trans is original to the
>
> car. Looks good or I wouldn?t have kept it all these years.  Thanks.
>
> Off list is OK.
>
>
>
> Perry
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_-1408075342319933534_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From llennep at verizon.net  Tue Mar 24 18:05:37 2020
From: llennep at verizon.net (Keith Pennell)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 00:05:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox and Overdrive
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LK9jbtSeJwL60B7VMwzK71n8k8csgyJU6HMYH+PDXvrVw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20200324143409.6B65EA1372@autox.team.net>
 <004901d6021e$c26a5030$473ef090$@tpg.com.au>
 <CAB3i7LK9jbtSeJwL60B7VMwzK71n8k8csgyJU6HMYH+PDXvrVw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <418059736.1581994.1585094737647@mail.yahoo.com>

OK Mike but how bout the tranny and OD?


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: Perry & Kimberly Small <healeyguy at aol.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Mar 24, 2020 5:41 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox and Overdrive

BJ8 engines are becoming very difficult to source Perry.?I get lots of enquiries but have only 1 short block in my stuff.I would imagine $4?- 7K depending on condition.
M


On Wed, Mar 25, 2020, 9:57 AM Patrick & Caroline Quinn, <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

Hello Perry?In this part of the world a rebuilt BJ8 gearbox and overdrive would go for around Au$4,500 and one like yours for around half that or a bit more depending on condition?Hoo Roo and stay safe?Patrick QuinnBlue Mountains, Australia?From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Perry via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, 25 March 2020 1:34 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox and Overdrive?ListersSorry if two copies of this listing showed up today. ?Anyone bought or sold a BJ8 gearbox and overdrive recently. Have had one on the shelf for about 20+ years and looking for a price range.? Surprisingly didn?t find much pricing info in my search. About 60K miles on the car it came out of. That doesn?t mean that the trans is original to the car. Looks good or I wouldn?t have kept it all these years.? Thanks. Off list is OK.?Perry??Sent from Mail for Windows 10?

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Mar 24 18:53:01 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 20:53:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Gearbox and Overdrive
Message-ID: <mailman.55.1585097587.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>


Rebuilt around $4?- 6K?
Core $1500?- 2500?

M


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Tue Mar 24 19:35:48 2020
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 14:35:48 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <001601d6019b$15432950$3fc97bf0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CABXhz88Zg4E6qe+3x7hJJ0LaodBrPR7E7KoZaF5U1CmtQ-tJqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR15MB1847377D28E38A581DEA854EA5F10@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <001601d6019b$15432950$3fc97bf0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <000601d60245$b7b5c3f0$27214bd0$@xtra.co.nz>

Not on mine, John.  It is the original knob and is the short version.

HBT7L/17600  -  25 January 1962 tri-carb

 

Mark
Ardmore, NZ

 

From: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, 24 March 2020 6:14 p.m.
To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' <ynotink at msn.com>; 'i erbs' <eyera3000 at gmail.com>;
'Mike MacLean' <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

I have a 1962 BT7 tricarb and the longer knob is correct for that model.

 

John Spaur

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2020 9:18 PM
To: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com> >; Mike MacLean
<rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> >
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

I bought one from Woolies in U.K. that was identical to original except that
the knob was longer. I was able to remove the knob and shaft from the new
switch and replace it with the one from my old switch. Perfect match and the
price was lower than any I've seen from US suppliers.

They seem to have good pricing on a lot of Lucas stuff.

 

Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

 

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of i erbs
<eyera3000 at gmail.com <mailto:eyera3000 at gmail.com> >
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 3:04 AM
To: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> >
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch 

 

I replaced mine two or three years ago, as my rebuilding the oem unit failed
after a while. I had to open up the hole in the bracket as the body of the
new one was a bit larger. Not sure why the repops can't be exactly the same?

 

On Mon, Mar 23, 2020, 5:18 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net
<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> > wrote:

Has anyone installed one of the new master shut off switch that Moss sells
in the last year or two?  Have you had any problems with it?  Trying to
decide if I should invest in a repro like the recent Moss offering or try to
find an NOS switch, if I can. 

Mike MacLea

56 BN2

Sent from AT
<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_And
roidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&
af_sub3=EmailSignature> &T Yahoo Mail on Android

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Mar 24 19:46:01 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 14:46:01 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <000601d60245$b7b5c3f0$27214bd0$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz88Zg4E6qe+3x7hJJ0LaodBrPR7E7KoZaF5U1CmtQ-tJqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR15MB1847377D28E38A581DEA854EA5F10@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <001601d6019b$15432950$3fc97bf0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <000601d60245$b7b5c3f0$27214bd0$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+qhQLOBf-HTPqM6M5vxMsZNMw7W6TBzYBc=uuS9LvYww@mail.gmail.com>

This is from the Concours Guidelines and as far as we can determine is
correct.

*The battery master switch was the same part number from beginning to end
of production, and varied only in its mounting.  It had a short stem (about
5/8 inch long) under the fluted part of the knob.  The top of the knob is
molded with the text "OFF" and a direction arrow. Replacement switches
being sold today from Lucas have significantly longer stems (maybe 1/4-3/8
inch longer) and look wrong, sort of like giraffes.*

If anyone has an *original car* which has an original longer necked switch
knob please be so good as to send me provenance  information as we are
always keen to correct any errors.

Michael Salter
Technical Chairman
Austin Healey Concours Registry


On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 2:36 PM Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
wrote:

> Not on mine, John.  It is the original knob and is the short version.
>
> HBT7L/17600  -  25 January 1962 tri-carb
>
>
>
> Mark
> Ardmore, NZ
>
>
>
> *From:* John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, 24 March 2020 6:14 p.m.
> *To:* 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' <ynotink at msn.com>; 'i erbs' <
> eyera3000 at gmail.com>; 'Mike MacLean' <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *Cc:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
>
>
> I have a 1962 BT7 tricarb and the longer knob is correct for that model.
>
>
>
> John Spaur
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
> *Sent:* Monday, March 23, 2020 9:18 PM
> *To:* i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
>
>
> I bought one from Woolies in U.K. that was identical to original except
> that the knob was longer. I was able to remove the knob and shaft from the
> new switch and replace it with the one from my old switch. Perfect match
> and the price was lower than any I?ve seen from US suppliers.
>
> They seem to have good pricing on a lot of Lucas stuff.
>
>
>
> Bill Lawrence
>
> BN1 #554
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of i erbs <
> eyera3000 at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 24, 2020 3:04 AM
> *To:* Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
>
>
> I replaced mine two or three years ago, as my rebuilding the oem unit
> failed after a while. I had to open up the hole in the bracket as the body
> of the new one was a bit larger. Not sure why the repops can't be exactly
> the same?
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020, 5:18 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> wrote:
>
> Has anyone installed one of the new master shut off switch that Moss sells
> in the last year or two?  Have you had any problems with it?  Trying to
> decide if I should invest in a repro like the recent Moss offering or try
> to find an NOS switch, if I can.
>
> Mike MacLea
>
> 56 BN2
>
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
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> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From manifold at telus.net  Tue Mar 24 20:35:13 2020
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 19:35:13 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+qhQLOBf-HTPqM6M5vxMsZNMw7W6TBzYBc=uuS9LvYww@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz88Zg4E6qe+3x7hJJ0LaodBrPR7E7KoZaF5U1CmtQ-tJqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR15MB1847377D28E38A581DEA854EA5F10@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <001601d6019b$15432950$3fc97bf0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <000601d60245$b7b5c3f0$27214bd0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <CAB3i7L+qhQLOBf-HTPqM6M5vxMsZNMw7W6TBzYBc=uuS9LvYww@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F869996E235B409ABAEB906DDD8DC573@AllInOne>

This one of the replacement options which is similar to the original Lucas
BMC 1B2804. Durite 0-605-2
 
https://www.durite.co.uk/ItemDetails/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemNumber=060502
<https://www.durite.co.uk/ItemDetails/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemNumber=060502&Sin
gleResultCriteria=&catid=54122> &SingleResultCriteria=&catid=54122#

  _____  

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
Salter
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 6:46 PM
To: Mark Donaldson
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch


This is from the Concours Guidelines and as far as we can determine is
correct.

The battery master switch was the same part number from beginning to end of
production, and varied only in its mounting.  It had a short stem (about 5/8
inch long) under the fluted part of the knob.  The top of the knob is molded
with the text "OFF" and a direction arrow. Replacement switches being sold
today from Lucas have significantly longer stems (maybe 1/4-3/8 inch longer)
and look wrong, sort of like giraffes.


If anyone has an original car which has an original longer necked switch
knob please be so good as to send me provenance  information as we are
always keen to correct any errors.



Michael Salter
Technical Chairman 

Austin Healey Concours Registry




On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 2:36 PM Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
wrote:


Not on mine, John.  It is the original knob and is the short version.

HBT7L/17600  -  25 January 1962 tri-carb

 

Mark
Ardmore, NZ

 

From: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, 24 March 2020 6:14 p.m.
To: 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' <ynotink at msn.com>; 'i erbs' <eyera3000 at gmail.com>;
'Mike MacLean' <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

I have a 1962 BT7 tricarb and the longer knob is correct for that model.

 

John Spaur

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE
Sent: Monday, March 23, 2020 9:18 PM
To: i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

I bought one from Woolies in U.K. that was identical to original except that
the knob was longer. I was able to remove the knob and shaft from the new
switch and replace it with the one from my old switch. Perfect match and the
price was lower than any I've seen from US suppliers.

They seem to have good pricing on a lot of Lucas stuff.

 

Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

 


  _____  


From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of i erbs
<eyera3000 at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 3:04 AM
To: Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch 

 

I replaced mine two or three years ago, as my rebuilding the oem unit failed
after a while. I had to open up the hole in the bracket as the body of the
new one was a bit larger. Not sure why the repops can't be exactly the same?

 

On Mon, Mar 23, 2020, 5:18 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

Has anyone installed one of the new master shut off switch that Moss sells
in the last year or two?  Have you had any problems with it?  Trying to
decide if I should invest in a repro like the recent Moss offering or try to
find an NOS switch, if I can. 

Mike MacLea

56 BN2

Sent from AT
<https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_And
roidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&
af_sub3=EmailSignature> &T Yahoo Mail on Android

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Mar 24 21:22:38 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 16:22:38 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <F869996E235B409ABAEB906DDD8DC573@AllInOne>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABXhz88Zg4E6qe+3x7hJJ0LaodBrPR7E7KoZaF5U1CmtQ-tJqQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CY4PR15MB1847377D28E38A581DEA854EA5F10@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <001601d6019b$15432950$3fc97bf0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <000601d60245$b7b5c3f0$27214bd0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <CAB3i7L+qhQLOBf-HTPqM6M5vxMsZNMw7W6TBzYBc=uuS9LvYww@mail.gmail.com>
 <F869996E235B409ABAEB906DDD8DC573@AllInOne>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLSzMH38x1qXkV7BbrVgmqLbCpssmufWh_eatyLhpoPDw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for that link Harold.
One thing common to all original 1B2804 battery master switches is the
Lucas rampant lion logo in the center of the knob as can be seen in this
image..
[image: image.png]


Any  "Lucas Type" master switch being sold these days will almost certainly
have a knob that looks like this:
[image: image.png]
*Note, no angry pussy cat!!*

Sure, if it has the small ignition grounding terminal, it will work just as
well but original is original!!

M

On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 3:35 PM Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

> This one of the replacement options which is similar to the original Lucas
> BMC 1B2804. Durite 0-605-2
>
>
> https://www.durite.co.uk/ItemDetails/ItemDetails.aspx?ItemNumber=060502&SingleResultCriteria=&catid=54122
> #
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Michael
> Salter
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 24, 2020 6:46 PM
> *To:* Mark Donaldson
> *Cc:* Healeys
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
> This is from the Concours Guidelines and as far as we can determine is
> correct.
>
> *The battery master switch was the same part number from beginning to end
> of production, and varied only in its mounting.  It had a short stem (about
> 5/8 inch long) under the fluted part of the knob.  The top of the knob is
> molded with the text "OFF" and a direction arrow. Replacement switches
> being sold today from Lucas have significantly longer stems (maybe 1/4-3/8
> inch longer) and look wrong, sort of like giraffes.*
>
> If anyone has an *original car* which has an original longer necked
> switch knob please be so good as to send me provenance  information as we
> are always keen to correct any errors.
>
> Michael Salter
> Technical Chairman
> Austin Healey Concours Registry
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 2:36 PM Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
> wrote:
>
>> Not on mine, John.  It is the original knob and is the short version.
>>
>> HBT7L/17600  -  25 January 1962 tri-carb
>>
>>
>>
>> Mark
>> Ardmore, NZ
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, 24 March 2020 6:14 p.m.
>> *To:* 'WILLIAM B LAWRENCE' <ynotink at msn.com>; 'i erbs' <
>> eyera3000 at gmail.com>; 'Mike MacLean' <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>> *Cc:* 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a 1962 BT7 tricarb and the longer knob is correct for that model.
>>
>>
>>
>> John Spaur
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *WILLIAM B LAWRENCE
>> *Sent:* Monday, March 23, 2020 9:18 PM
>> *To:* i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com>; Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net
>> >
>> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>>
>>
>>
>> I bought one from Woolies in U.K. that was identical to original except
>> that the knob was longer. I was able to remove the knob and shaft from the
>> new switch and replace it with the one from my old switch. Perfect match
>> and the price was lower than any I?ve seen from US suppliers.
>>
>> They seem to have good pricing on a lot of Lucas stuff.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Lawrence
>>
>> BN1 #554
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of i erbs <
>> eyera3000 at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 24, 2020 3:04 AM
>> *To:* Mike MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>>
>>
>>
>> I replaced mine two or three years ago, as my rebuilding the oem unit
>> failed after a while. I had to open up the hole in the bracket as the body
>> of the new one was a bit larger. Not sure why the repops can't be exactly
>> the same?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020, 5:18 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone installed one of the new master shut off switch that Moss
>> sells in the last year or two?  Have you had any problems with it?  Trying
>> to decide if I should invest in a repro like the recent Moss offering or
>> try to find an NOS switch, if I can.
>>
>> Mike MacLea
>>
>> 56 BN2
>>
>> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
>> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue Mar 24 22:53:22 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Tue, 24 Mar 2020 21:53:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com> 
Message-ID: <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>

I have tried to post this to the list several times but it keeps bouncing.

 

The internal part in the reproduction switches is plastic, not Bakelite. If your engine is hard to start and you crank it too long the plastic part melts and the switch is toast. I rebuilt one recently with the proper Bakelite part. However, they are not always interchangeable with the newer metal case because the metal case is slightly smaller.

 

John

?62 BT7

San Jose, CA

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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Wed Mar 25 08:56:59 2020
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 07:56:59 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>

The number one fault with both the original and the new switch is the spring inside looses its tension and you then loose the ground connection. We have sourced the correct rivets to restore your original battery switch.

I have also had to take apart the new switches to make them work correctly. Simply drill out the rivets. Stretch out the new spring and install new rivets.


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: John Spaur 
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:53 PM
To: 'Healeys' 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

I have tried to post this to the list several times but it keeps bouncing.

 

The internal part in the reproduction switches is plastic, not Bakelite. If your engine is hard to start and you crank it too long the plastic part melts and the switch is toast. I rebuilt one recently with the proper Bakelite part. However, they are not always interchangeable with the newer metal case because the metal case is slightly smaller.

 

John

?62 BT7

San Jose, CA



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Wed Mar 25 14:00:09 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 13:00:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <001101d602df$fd87db30$f8979190$@sbcglobal.net>

In my experience with the switches they overheat and the spring collapses.

 

Good to know you have the rivets.

 

John

 

From: David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2020 7:57 AM
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

The number one fault with both the original and the new switch is the spring inside looses its tension and you then loose the ground connection. We have sourced the correct rivets to restore your original battery switch.

 

I have also had to take apart the new switches to make them work correctly. Simply drill out the rivets. Stretch out the new spring and install new rivets.

 

 

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> 
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com> 

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org <http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org> 

 

From: John Spaur 

Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:53 PM

To: 'Healeys' 

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

I have tried to post this to the list several times but it keeps bouncing.

 

The internal part in the reproduction switches is plastic, not Bakelite. If your engine is hard to start and you crank it too long the plastic part melts and the switch is toast. I rebuilt one recently with the proper Bakelite part. However, they are not always interchangeable with the newer metal case because the metal case is slightly smaller.

 

John

?62 BT7

San Jose, CA

  _____  

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Mar 25 14:35:54 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2020 09:35:54 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <001101d602df$fd87db30$f8979190$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
 <001101d602df$fd87db30$f8979190$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLx_7UJpo6croMsyLUD_Q1aEH5iVfnNgJABn6WBDq7y4w@mail.gmail.com>

My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a little
different.
Many years ago, after having a newly installed NOS switch fail on my own
car, I  discovered that it had failed because the ground cable running from
the switch to the frame was not properly installed.
The full starter current must pass through the switch then through the
cable to ground. When there is resistance in that cable current passes
through THE SPRING to then ground through the body of the switch and the
switch mounting bracket.
This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses tension
ruining the switch.
I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the spring as
suggested but often found that the brass of the spring had been totally
annealed as a result of being overheated because of the current that had
passed through them.
For my own car (and several others since)  I made a new spring from copper
coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold the car many years
later.

M

On Thu, Mar 26, 2020, 9:00 AM John Spaur, <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> In my experience with the switches they overheat and the spring collapses.
>
>
>
> Good to know you have the rivets.
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> *From:* David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 25, 2020 7:57 AM
> *To:* John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>; 'Healeys' <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
>
>
> The number one fault with both the original and the new switch is the
> spring inside looses its tension and you then loose the ground connection.
> We have sourced the correct rivets to restore your original battery switch.
>
>
>
> I have also had to take apart the new switches to make them work
> correctly. Simply drill out the rivets. Stretch out the new spring and
> install new rivets.
>
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
> by visiting the site at.
> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>
>
>
> *From:* John Spaur
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:53 PM
>
> *To:* 'Healeys'
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
>
>
> I have tried to post this to the list several times but it keeps bouncing.
>
>
>
> The internal part in the reproduction switches is plastic, not Bakelite.
> If your engine is hard to start and you crank it too long the plastic part
> melts and the switch is toast. I rebuilt one recently with the proper
> Bakelite part. However, they are not always interchangeable with the newer
> metal case because the metal case is slightly smaller.
>
>
>
> John
>
> ?62 BT7
>
> San Jose, CA
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Mar 25 15:24:47 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 17:24:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLx_7UJpo6croMsyLUD_Q1aEH5iVfnNgJABn6WBDq7y4w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
 <001101d602df$fd87db30$f8979190$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LLx_7UJpo6croMsyLUD_Q1aEH5iVfnNgJABn6WBDq7y4w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5Cx097tibG75=NKJhcs3WSNmvnMGxjnjTF_nxqvDHSbA@mail.gmail.com>

For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade shutoff
switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the Pegasus site.

On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a little
> different.
> Many years ago, after having a newly installed NOS switch fail on my own
> car, I  discovered that it had failed because the ground cable running from
> the switch to the frame was not properly installed.
> The full starter current must pass through the switch then through the
> cable to ground. When there is resistance in that cable current passes
> through THE SPRING to then ground through the body of the switch and the
> switch mounting bracket.
> This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses tension
> ruining the switch.
> I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the spring as
> suggested but often found that the brass of the spring had been totally
> annealed as a result of being overheated because of the current that had
> passed through them.
> For my own car (and several others since)  I made a new spring from copper
> coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold the car many years
> later.
>
> M
>
> On Thu, Mar 26, 2020, 9:00 AM John Spaur, <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
>> In my experience with the switches they overheat and the spring collapses.
>>
>>
>>
>> Good to know you have the rivets.
>>
>>
>>
>> John
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com]
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 25, 2020 7:57 AM
>> *To:* John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>; 'Healeys' <
>> healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>>
>>
>>
>> The number one fault with both the original and the new switch is the
>> spring inside looses its tension and you then loose the ground connection.
>> We have sourced the correct rivets to restore your original battery switch.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have also had to take apart the new switches to make them work
>> correctly. Simply drill out the rivets. Stretch out the new spring and
>> install new rivets.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> David Nock
>> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>> 209 948 8767
>> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>>
>> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
>> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
>> by visiting the site at.
>> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* John Spaur
>>
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:53 PM
>>
>> *To:* 'Healeys'
>>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>>
>>
>>
>> I have tried to post this to the list several times but it keeps bouncing.
>>
>>
>>
>> The internal part in the reproduction switches is plastic, not Bakelite.
>> If your engine is hard to start and you crank it too long the plastic part
>> melts and the switch is toast. I rebuilt one recently with the proper
>> Bakelite part. However, they are not always interchangeable with the newer
>> metal case because the metal case is slightly smaller.
>>
>>
>>
>> John
>>
>> ?62 BT7
>>
>> San Jose, CA
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Wed Mar 25 15:59:43 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 14:59:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5Cx097tibG75=NKJhcs3WSNmvnMGxjnjTF_nxqvDHSbA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
 <001101d602df$fd87db30$f8979190$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LLx_7UJpo6croMsyLUD_Q1aEH5iVfnNgJABn6WBDq7y4w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Cx097tibG75=NKJhcs3WSNmvnMGxjnjTF_nxqvDHSbA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7okn7fl6hc3al5j66247l9254fb5l0aqbj@4ax.com>

Following that same thread, Roger Moment, in a series of articles a
few years ago recommended that if you are starting a newly rebuilt
engine or are otherwise going to run the starter motor under load
extensively, that you take the switch out of the circuit by connecting
both of the cables that run to the switch onto the same post or
otherwise complete the connection.  Then after the car starts with no
more than normal effort you can put the switch back into the circuit.

-Roland

On Wed, 25 Mar 2020 17:24:47 -0400, you wrote:

>For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade shutoff
>switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the Pegasus site.
>
>On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>> My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a little
>> different.
>> Many years ago, after having a newly installed NOS switch fail on my own
>> car, I  discovered that it had failed because the ground cable running from
>> the switch to the frame was not properly installed.
>> The full starter current must pass through the switch then through the
>> cable to ground. When there is resistance in that cable current passes
>> through THE SPRING to then ground through the body of the switch and the
>> switch mounting bracket.
>> This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses tension
>> ruining the switch.
>> I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the spring as
>> suggested but often found that the brass of the spring had been totally
>> annealed as a result of being overheated because of the current that had
>> passed through them.
>> For my own car (and several others since)  I made a new spring from copper
>> coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold the car many years
>> later.
>>
>> M

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed Mar 25 16:54:26 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 18:54:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <7okn7fl6hc3al5j66247l9254fb5l0aqbj@4ax.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
 <001101d602df$fd87db30$f8979190$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LLx_7UJpo6croMsyLUD_Q1aEH5iVfnNgJABn6WBDq7y4w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Cx097tibG75=NKJhcs3WSNmvnMGxjnjTF_nxqvDHSbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <7okn7fl6hc3al5j66247l9254fb5l0aqbj@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5H3_mLh=DZ5=aUHrArCs3kRBG1q4DNq3g52rPtV9veyA@mail.gmail.com>

"Following that same thread, Roger Moment, in a series of articles a
few years ago recommended that if you are starting a newly rebuilt
engine or are otherwise going to run the starter motor under load
extensively, that you take the switch out of the circuit by connecting
both of the cables that run to the switch onto the same post or
otherwise complete the connection.  Then after the car starts with no
more than normal effort you can put the switch back into the circuit."

---------------------------------------------------------------------
I cannot think of a better commentary than this upon the switch's
reliability.

On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 5:59 PM <sentenac.rw at gmail.com> wrote:

> Following that same thread, Roger Moment, in a series of articles a
> few years ago recommended that if you are starting a newly rebuilt
> engine or are otherwise going to run the starter motor under load
> extensively, that you take the switch out of the circuit by connecting
> both of the cables that run to the switch onto the same post or
> otherwise complete the connection.  Then after the car starts with no
> more than normal effort you can put the switch back into the circuit.
>
> -Roland
>
> On Wed, 25 Mar 2020 17:24:47 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade shutoff
> >switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the Pegasus site.
> >
> >On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> >wrote:
> >
> >> My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a little
> >> different.
> >> Many years ago, after having a newly installed NOS switch fail on my own
> >> car, I  discovered that it had failed because the ground cable running
> from
> >> the switch to the frame was not properly installed.
> >> The full starter current must pass through the switch then through the
> >> cable to ground. When there is resistance in that cable current passes
> >> through THE SPRING to then ground through the body of the switch and the
> >> switch mounting bracket.
> >> This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses tension
> >> ruining the switch.
> >> I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the spring as
> >> suggested but often found that the brass of the spring had been totally
> >> annealed as a result of being overheated because of the current that had
> >> passed through them.
> >> For my own car (and several others since)  I made a new spring from
> copper
> >> coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold the car many years
> >> later.
> >>
> >> M
>
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Mar 25 17:19:51 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 23:19:51 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5H3_mLh=DZ5=aUHrArCs3kRBG1q4DNq3g52rPtV9veyA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
 <001101d602df$fd87db30$f8979190$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LLx_7UJpo6croMsyLUD_Q1aEH5iVfnNgJABn6WBDq7y4w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Cx097tibG75=NKJhcs3WSNmvnMGxjnjTF_nxqvDHSbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <7okn7fl6hc3al5j66247l9254fb5l0aqbj@4ax.com>
 <CAPTa0B5H3_mLh=DZ5=aUHrArCs3kRBG1q4DNq3g52rPtV9veyA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1874042174.2176073.1585178391897@mail.yahoo.com>

 I asked if anyone was having problems with the master switch that Moss offers.? I am getting quite an education.? From what it sounds like, if I just take the switch out of the circuit for initial start up until it starts easily, then even the Moss switch should be OK as long as I make good connections to both ends of the cables to the switch.? Does that about boil it down?Mike MacLean56 BN2

    On Wednesday, March 25, 2020, 3:54:53 PM PDT, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 "Following that same thread, Roger Moment, in a series of articles afew years ago recommended that if you are starting a newly rebuilt
engine or are otherwise going to run the starter motor under load
extensively, that you take the switch out of the circuit by connecting
both of the cables that run to the switch onto the same post or
otherwise complete the connection.? Then after the car starts with no
more than normal effort you can put the switch back into the circuit."
---------------------------------------------------------------------I cannot think of a better commentary than this upon the switch's reliability.
On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 5:59 PM <sentenac.rw at gmail.com> wrote:

Following that same thread, Roger Moment, in a series of articles a
few years ago recommended that if you are starting a newly rebuilt
engine or are otherwise going to run the starter motor under load
extensively, that you take the switch out of the circuit by connecting
both of the cables that run to the switch onto the same post or
otherwise complete the connection.? Then after the car starts with no
more than normal effort you can put the switch back into the circuit.

-Roland

On Wed, 25 Mar 2020 17:24:47 -0400, you wrote:

>For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade shutoff
>switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the Pegasus site.
>
>On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>wrote:
>
>> My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a little
>> different.
>> Many years ago, after having a newly installed NOS switch fail on my own
>> car, I? discovered that it had failed because the ground cable running from
>> the switch to the frame was not properly installed.
>> The full starter current must pass through the switch then through the
>> cable to ground. When there is resistance in that cable current passes
>> through THE SPRING to then ground through the body of the switch and the
>> switch mounting bracket.
>> This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses tension
>> ruining the switch.
>> I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the spring as
>> suggested but often found that the brass of the spring had been totally
>> annealed as a result of being overheated because of the current that had
>> passed through them.
>> For my own car (and several others since)? I made a new spring from copper
>> coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold the car many years
>> later.
>>
>> M

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Mar 25 18:21:10 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 20:21:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <1874042174.2176073.1585178391897@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
 <001101d602df$fd87db30$f8979190$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LLx_7UJpo6croMsyLUD_Q1aEH5iVfnNgJABn6WBDq7y4w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Cx097tibG75=NKJhcs3WSNmvnMGxjnjTF_nxqvDHSbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <7okn7fl6hc3al5j66247l9254fb5l0aqbj@4ax.com>
 <CAPTa0B5H3_mLh=DZ5=aUHrArCs3kRBG1q4DNq3g52rPtV9veyA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1874042174.2176073.1585178391897@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.56.1585182076.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
Our 1955 early BN2, has the same master switch in that it first started with back on August 23, 1955. Granted it was checked and cleaned with spray contact cleaner during the restoration in 2001. You folks all already know this story, if a part fails, there is always a reason for the failure.  Electrical bits tend to fail when a electrical contact does or doesn?t work as designed. Dirty or corroded points on an SU fuel pump will leave you stranded on the side of the road, in this case Route 66 in the Texas panhandle. (That story takes about an hour and a half to tell).  Lucas smoke emitting from the underside of the dash board always get the imagination going and there is always a cause.  A battery  post (pick positive or negative depending on you frame of mind) looks for a way to connect to the other terminal ( ground or power). Anything along that route that is the weak link in the circuit, whether poor connection, undersized or damaged wire, etc.,  has the potential to make the crazy 12 volts to seek another way to the target.  It will find a way if there are alternatives to the design plan. You?ll recall the frayed wire that touched that brand new capillary tube for the water temp gauge, that ruined the gauge and the wiring harness. Just be glad that our toys are not filled with all kinds of electronic gadgets because the chances of figuring out what really went wrong in that case is just this side of NIL. (that is just west of Baltimore) ?  
Perry


From: Michael MacLean

I asked if anyone was having problems with the master switch that Moss offers.? I am getting quite an education.? 


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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Wed Mar 25 18:39:52 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Mar 2020 17:39:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <5dtn7f9vbvvnap1r0kct0o02r6pscdjbo4@4ax.com>

As an aside on relevant materials, Roger Moment published a series of
37 articles in Austin Healey Magazine on Restoration Methods from
Feb/Mar 2006 to Sept/Oct 2011.  They cover just about everything from
look before you leap through the total restoration process, piece by
piece with photos and specific advice for most models of the Big
Healey.

You might think of these articles as a 'supplement' to Anderson and
Moment's book.  This part concentrates on how tos rather than what
was's.  It is available for downloading and reading to members of the
Austin Healey Club, USA.  In my opinion it is worth membership just to
be able to download these articles although of course there are many
other aspects of membership.

When people are spending wierd amounts of money for a copy of Anderson
and Moment, I think Moment's 37 chapters, truly a labor of love, are a
bargain.  Roger won't get a penny from it,  but you will learn a whole
lot.  

-Roland

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Wed Mar 25 18:55:04 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2020 00:55:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <5dtn7f9vbvvnap1r0kct0o02r6pscdjbo4@4ax.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>,
 <5dtn7f9vbvvnap1r0kct0o02r6pscdjbo4@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB1462CE9A7DAB326297E34584D1CF0@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

And the magazines these articles are in are also available for $4.00 a piece plus shipping through the Historian of the AHCUSA at my email address above.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com<mailto:sentenac.rw at gmail.com>
Sent: March 25, 2020 7:40 PM
To: 'Austin Healey list'<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

As an aside on relevant materials, Roger Moment published a series of
37 articles in Austin Healey Magazine on Restoration Methods from
Feb/Mar 2006 to Sept/Oct 2011.  They cover just about everything from
look before you leap through the total restoration process, piece by
piece with photos and specific advice for most models of the Big
Healey.

You might think of these articles as a 'supplement' to Anderson and
Moment's book.  This part concentrates on how tos rather than what
was's.  It is available for downloading and reading to members of the
Austin Healey Club, USA.  In my opinion it is worth membership just to
be able to download these articles although of course there are many
other aspects of membership.

When people are spending wierd amounts of money for a copy of Anderson
and Moment, I think Moment's 37 chapters, truly a labor of love, are a
bargain.  Roger won't get a penny from it,  but you will learn a whole
lot.

-Roland

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Thu Mar 26 06:48:23 2020
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (Robert Begani)
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2020 08:48:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW:  Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B5Cx097tibG75=NKJhcs3WSNmvnMGxjnjTF_nxqvDHSbA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
 <001101d602df$fd87db30$f8979190$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LLx_7UJpo6croMsyLUD_Q1aEH5iVfnNgJABn6WBDq7y4w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Cx097tibG75=NKJhcs3WSNmvnMGxjnjTF_nxqvDHSbA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <020901d6036c$d68092b0$8381b810$@gmail.com>

A Good analysis why the original Healey switch and replacements do not work well.  May choose to keep the original in a box and buy a Hella, or continue to do with out a switch and use a direct ground to the frame.

 

Bob Begani

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Oritt
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2020 5:25 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade shutoff switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the Pegasus site.

 

On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:

My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a little different. 

Many years ago, after having a newly installed NOS switch fail on my own car, I  discovered that it had failed because the ground cable running from the switch to the frame was not properly installed. 

The full starter current must pass through the switch then through the cable to ground. When there is resistance in that cable current passes through THE SPRING to then ground through the body of the switch and the switch mounting bracket.

This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses tension ruining the switch.

I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the spring as suggested but often found that the brass of the spring had been totally annealed as a result of being overheated because of the current that had passed through them.

For my own car (and several others since)  I made a new spring from copper coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold the car many years later. 

 

M

 

On Thu, Mar 26, 2020, 9:00 AM John Spaur, <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> > wrote:

In my experience with the switches they overheat and the spring collapses.

 

Good to know you have the rivets.

 

John

 

From: David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com <mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com> ] 
Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2020 7:57 AM
To: John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> >; 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

The number one fault with both the original and the new switch is the spring inside looses its tension and you then loose the ground connection. We have sourced the correct rivets to restore your original battery switch.

 

I have also had to take apart the new switches to make them work correctly. Simply drill out the rivets. Stretch out the new spring and install new rivets.

 

 

David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> 
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com> 

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org <http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org> 

 

From: John Spaur 

Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:53 PM

To: 'Healeys' 

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch

 

I have tried to post this to the list several times but it keeps bouncing.

 

The internal part in the reproduction switches is plastic, not Bakelite. If your engine is hard to start and you crank it too long the plastic part melts and the switch is toast. I rebuilt one recently with the proper Bakelite part. However, they are not always interchangeable with the newer metal case because the metal case is slightly smaller.

 

John

?62 BT7

San Jose, CA


  _____  


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From alexmm at roadrunner.com  Thu Mar 26 09:40:57 2020
From: alexmm at roadrunner.com (Alex)
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2020 11:40:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <020901d6036c$d68092b0$8381b810$@gmail.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
 <001101d602df$fd87db30$f8979190$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LLx_7UJpo6croMsyLUD_Q1aEH5iVfnNgJABn6WBDq7y4w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Cx097tibG75=NKJhcs3WSNmvnMGxjnjTF_nxqvDHSbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <020901d6036c$d68092b0$8381b810$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <954464fc-334b-62d4-8ca9-494bf535910d@roadrunner.com>

*A few years ago I installed a marine-grade switch on my BT7. I bought 
it from West Marine. Fits nicely and works great!*

*== Alex in Maine*

*1960 BT7, 1946 MG-TC*


On 3/26/2020 8:48 AM, Robert Begani wrote:
>
> A Good analysis why the original Healey switch and replacements do not 
> work well.? May choose to keep the original in a box and buy a Hella, 
> or continue to do with out a switch and use a direct ground to the frame.
>
> Bob Begani
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of 
> *Michael Oritt
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 25, 2020 5:25 PM
> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
> For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade shutoff 
> switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the Pegasus site.
>
> On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter 
> <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a
>     little different.
>
>     Many?years ago, after?having a newly installed NOS switch fail on
>     my own car,?I? discovered that it had failed because the ground
>     cable running from the switch to the frame was not
>     properly?installed.
>
>     The full starter current must pass through the switch then through
>     the cable to ground. When there is resistance in that cable
>     current passes through THE SPRING to then ground through the body
>     of the switch and the switch mounting bracket.
>
>     This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses
>     tension ruining the switch.
>
>     I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the
>     spring as suggested but often found that the brass of the spring
>     had been totally annealed as a result of being overheated because
>     of the current that had passed through them.
>
>     For my own car (and several others since)? I made a new spring
>     from copper coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold the
>     car many years later.
>
>     M
>
>     On Thu, Mar 26, 2020, 9:00 AM John Spaur, <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>     <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
>
>         In my experience with the switches they overheat and the
>         spring collapses.
>
>         Good to know you have the rivets.
>
>         John
>
>         *From:* David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com
>         <mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com>]
>         *Sent:* Wednesday, March 25, 2020 7:57 AM
>         *To:* John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>         <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>>; 'Healeys'
>         <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>         *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
>         The number one fault with both the original and the new switch
>         is the spring inside looses its tension and you then loose the
>         ground connection. We have sourced the correct rivets to
>         restore your original battery switch.
>
>         I have also had to take apart the new switches to make them
>         work correctly. Simply drill out the rivets. Stretch out the
>         new spring and install new rivets.
>
>         David Nock
>         healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
>         209 948 8767
>         www.britishcarspecialists.com
>         <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>
>
>         Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
>         British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
>         by visiting the site at.
>         www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>         <http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org>
>
>         *From:*John Spaur
>
>         *Sent:*Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:53 PM
>
>         *To:*'Healeys'
>
>         *Subject:*Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
>         I have tried to post this to the list several times but it
>         keeps bouncing.
>
>         The internal part in the reproduction switches is plastic, not
>         Bakelite. If your engine is hard to start and you crank it too
>         long the plastic part melts and the switch is toast. I rebuilt
>         one recently with the proper Bakelite part. However, they are
>         not always interchangeable with the newer metal case because
>         the metal case is slightly smaller.
>
>         John
>
>         ?62 BT7
>
>         San Jose, CA
>
>         ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
>
>         _______________________________________________
>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>         http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alexmm at roadrunner.com
>

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From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Thu Mar 26 12:06:17 2020
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2020 14:06:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <954464fc-334b-62d4-8ca9-494bf535910d@roadrunner.com>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
 <001101d602df$fd87db30$f8979190$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LLx_7UJpo6croMsyLUD_Q1aEH5iVfnNgJABn6WBDq7y4w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Cx097tibG75=NKJhcs3WSNmvnMGxjnjTF_nxqvDHSbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <020901d6036c$d68092b0$8381b810$@gmail.com>
 <954464fc-334b-62d4-8ca9-494bf535910d@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <ffe371d7-b5dc-b06a-b0f8-2c99cbe821e8@comcast.net>

There have been a couple of references to marine grade switches. For us 
landlubbers, does that mean that it holds up to the weather better with 
less chance of internal corrosion? What do these things look like?

Thanks.

Charlie

On 3/26/2020 11:40 AM, Alex wrote:
>
> *A few years ago I installed a marine-grade switch on my BT7. I bought 
> it from West Marine. Fits nicely and works great!*
>
> *== Alex in Maine*
>
> *1960 BT7, 1946 MG-TC*
>
>
> On 3/26/2020 8:48 AM, Robert Begani wrote:
>>
>> A Good analysis why the original Healey switch and replacements do 
>> not work well.? May choose to keep the original in a box and buy a 
>> Hella, or continue to do with out a switch and use a direct ground to 
>> the frame.
>>
>> Bob Begani
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of 
>> *Michael Oritt
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 25, 2020 5:25 PM
>> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>>
>> For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade 
>> shutoff switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the 
>> Pegasus site.
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter 
>> <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a
>>     little different.
>>
>>     Many?years ago, after?having a newly installed NOS switch fail on
>>     my own car,?I? discovered that it had failed because the ground
>>     cable running from the switch to the frame was not
>>     properly?installed.
>>
>>     The full starter current must pass through the switch then
>>     through the cable to ground. When there is resistance in that
>>     cable current passes through THE SPRING to then ground through
>>     the body of the switch and the switch mounting bracket.
>>
>>     This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses
>>     tension ruining the switch.
>>
>>     I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the
>>     spring as suggested but often found that the brass of the spring
>>     had been totally annealed as a result of being overheated because
>>     of the current that had passed through them.
>>
>>     For my own car (and several others since)? I made a new spring
>>     from copper coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold
>>     the car many years later.
>>
>>     M
>>
>>     On Thu, Mar 26, 2020, 9:00 AM John Spaur, <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>>     <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
>>
>>         In my experience with the switches they overheat and the
>>         spring collapses.
>>
>>         Good to know you have the rivets.
>>
>>         John
>>
>>         *From:* David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com
>>         <mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com>]
>>         *Sent:* Wednesday, March 25, 2020 7:57 AM
>>         *To:* John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net
>>         <mailto:jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>>; 'Healeys'
>>         <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>         *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>>
>>         The number one fault with both the original and the new
>>         switch is the spring inside looses its tension and you then
>>         loose the ground connection. We have sourced the correct
>>         rivets to restore your original battery switch.
>>
>>         I have also had to take apart the new switches to make them
>>         work correctly. Simply drill out the rivets. Stretch out the
>>         new spring and install new rivets.
>>
>>         David Nock
>>         healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <mailto:healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
>>         209 948 8767
>>         www.britishcarspecialists.com
>>         <http://www.britishcarspecialists.com>
>>
>>         Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
>>         British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
>>         by visiting the site at.
>>         www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>>         <http://www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org>
>>
>>         *From:*John Spaur
>>
>>         *Sent:*Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:53 PM
>>
>>         *To:*'Healeys'
>>
>>         *Subject:*Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>>
>>         I have tried to post this to the list several times but it
>>         keeps bouncing.
>>
>>         The internal part in the reproduction switches is plastic,
>>         not Bakelite. If your engine is hard to start and you crank
>>         it too long the plastic part melts and the switch is toast. I
>>         rebuilt one recently with the proper Bakelite part. However,
>>         they are not always interchangeable with the newer metal case
>>         because the metal case is slightly smaller.
>>
>>         John
>>
>>         ?62 BT7
>>
>>         San Jose, CA
>>
>>         ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>         _______________________________________________
>>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>         http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
>>
>>         _______________________________________________
>>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>         http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>         Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alexmm at roadrunner.com
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Mar 26 13:37:52 2020
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2020 15:37:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] FW: Master Switch
In-Reply-To: <ffe371d7-b5dc-b06a-b0f8-2c99cbe821e8@comcast.net>
References: <1713762296.965673.1585009049044.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1713762296.965673.1585009049044@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003201d60261$502566c0$f0703440$@sbcglobal.net>
 <3C978848B6884B7B8B6B7744B6B67DA9@DavidNockHP>
 <001101d602df$fd87db30$f8979190$@sbcglobal.net>
 <CAB3i7LLx_7UJpo6croMsyLUD_Q1aEH5iVfnNgJABn6WBDq7y4w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B5Cx097tibG75=NKJhcs3WSNmvnMGxjnjTF_nxqvDHSbA@mail.gmail.com>
 <020901d6036c$d68092b0$8381b810$@gmail.com>
 <954464fc-334b-62d4-8ca9-494bf535910d@roadrunner.com>
 <ffe371d7-b5dc-b06a-b0f8-2c99cbe821e8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4nu3sRXVsWgAsc1OkvZ2zfL97-mXpjEa0CB=SDoyvx2g@mail.gmail.com>

Charlie--

I posted about using a Hella brand switch which is sold by Pegasus racing
amongst others.

People often poo-poo "marine rating" as just a way to charge more for
the same thing with a different label and perhaps this may sometimes be
true.  However there are respected brands, Hella being one of them, that
make high-quality stuff for marine environments and though I have never
disassembled one of their switches neither did I ever have one fail in more
than 30 years on my old boat.  Usually you will find bronze parts versus
brass, 303,304 or 316 stainless versus the cheap Chinese stuff that usually
produces a lot of surface pitting and corrosion, etc and better sealing to
live in a harsh environment.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Mar 26, 2020 at 2:06 PM Charlie Baldwin <mgcharlie at comcast.net>
wrote:

> There have been a couple of references to marine grade switches.  For us
> landlubbers, does that mean that it holds up to the weather better with
> less chance of internal corrosion? What do these things look like?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Charlie
> On 3/26/2020 11:40 AM, Alex wrote:
>
> *A few years ago I installed a marine-grade switch on my BT7. I bought it
> from West Marine. Fits nicely and works great!*
>
> *== Alex in Maine*
>
> *1960 BT7, 1946 MG-TC*
>
> On 3/26/2020 8:48 AM, Robert Begani wrote:
>
> A Good analysis why the original Healey switch and replacements do not
> work well.  May choose to keep the original in a box and buy a Hella, or
> continue to do with out a switch and use a direct ground to the frame.
>
>
>
> Bob Begani
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>
> <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael Oritt
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 25, 2020 5:25 PM
> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
>
>
> For my money (and car) I opted for a high quality marine-grade shutoff
> switch such as that made by Hella and others, sold on the Pegasus site.
>
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 25, 2020 at 4:31 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> My experience with the original Lucas Master switches has been a little
> different.
>
> Many years ago, after having a newly installed NOS switch fail on my own
> car, I  discovered that it had failed because the ground cable running from
> the switch to the frame was not properly installed.
>
> The full starter current must pass through the switch then through the
> cable to ground. When there is resistance in that cable current passes
> through THE SPRING to then ground through the body of the switch and the
> switch mounting bracket.
>
> This high current rapidly overheats the spring and it looses tension
> ruining the switch.
>
> I have disassembled several of these switches to stretch the spring as
> suggested but often found that the brass of the spring had been totally
> annealed as a result of being overheated because of the current that had
> passed through them.
>
> For my own car (and several others since)  I made a new spring from copper
> coated steel welding wire wich lasted until I sold the car many years
> later.
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 26, 2020, 9:00 AM John Spaur, <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> In my experience with the switches they overheat and the spring collapses.
>
>
>
> Good to know you have the rivets.
>
>
>
> John
>
>
>
> *From:* David Nock [mailto:healeydoc at gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 25, 2020 7:57 AM
> *To:* John Spaur <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>; 'Healeys' <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
>
>
> The number one fault with both the original and the new switch is the
> spring inside looses its tension and you then loose the ground connection.
> We have sourced the correct rivets to restore your original battery switch.
>
>
>
> I have also had to take apart the new switches to make them work
> correctly. Simply drill out the rivets. Stretch out the new spring and
> install new rivets.
>
>
>
>
>
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
>
> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
> by visiting the site at.
> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>
>
>
> *From:* John Spaur
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:53 PM
>
> *To:* 'Healeys'
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Master Switch
>
>
>
> I have tried to post this to the list several times but it keeps bouncing.
>
>
>
> The internal part in the reproduction switches is plastic, not Bakelite.
> If your engine is hard to start and you crank it too long the plastic part
> melts and the switch is toast. I rebuilt one recently with the proper
> Bakelite part. However, they are not always interchangeable with the newer
> metal case because the metal case is slightly smaller.
>
>
>
> John
>
> ?62 BT7
>
> San Jose, CA
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alexmm at roadrunner.com
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/mgcharlie at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
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From p_cquinn at tpg.com.au  Thu Mar 26 15:34:30 2020
From: p_cquinn at tpg.com.au (Patrick & Caroline Quinn)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 08:34:30 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch - Again
Message-ID: <000c01d603b6$55b5d740$012185c0$@tpg.com.au>

Hello

 

Would anyone have the article or whatever on repairing the original Lucas
master switch they could send me please?

 

Thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia



-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Thu Mar 26 18:11:26 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 00:11:26 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch - Again
In-Reply-To: <000c01d603b6$55b5d740$012185c0$@tpg.com.au>
References: <000c01d603b6$55b5d740$012185c0$@tpg.com.au>
Message-ID: <BN6PR15MB1698F3F7677DAEB5CCE2EE26BFCC0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

I recall one in the Austin Healey magazine several years ago; I used it to rebuilt mine. Not sure I can find the article but maybe in the history archived files.

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 440

On Mar 26, 2020, at 16:34, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> wrote:

?
Hello

Would anyone have the article or whatever on repairing the original Lucas master switch they could send me please?

Thanks

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>      Virus-free. www.avast.com<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Mar 26 18:22:18 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 13:22:18 +1300
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch - Again
In-Reply-To: <BN6PR15MB1698F3F7677DAEB5CCE2EE26BFCC0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000c01d603b6$55b5d740$012185c0$@tpg.com.au>
 <BN6PR15MB1698F3F7677DAEB5CCE2EE26BFCC0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK7MbTNnC03MKcGrP1qRh9xPGHKUAad4bh_WTe-V6tQtg@mail.gmail.com>

And the rivets, aka "eyelets' are readily available on Ebay.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/50x-Copper-Alloy-Brass-Eyelet-3-5x5mm-for-Soldering-Connection-e/163605896720?hash=item2617abde10:g:KxQAAOSwJiBcQSWx
The little "19" bugs should be dead by the time you get them :-)

M


On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 1:11 PM Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> I recall one in the Austin Healey magazine several years ago; I used it to
> rebuilt mine. Not sure I can find the article but maybe in the history
> archived files.
>
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 440
>
> On Mar 26, 2020, at 16:34, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> Hello
>
>
>
> Would anyone have the article or whatever on repairing the original Lucas
> master switch they could send me please?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
> <#m_8934400815177876104_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Mar 26 18:23:31 2020
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2020 20:23:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch - Again
In-Reply-To: <BN6PR15MB1698F3F7677DAEB5CCE2EE26BFCC0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000c01d603b6$55b5d740$012185c0$@tpg.com.au>
 <BN6PR15MB1698F3F7677DAEB5CCE2EE26BFCC0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <008201d603cd$f2c93560$d85ba020$@verizon.net>

Look at:

 

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et203d.htm

 

Also: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/electr_2.htm

 

For articles on changing polarity. You can find these on my site at: Technical page Electrical Section First listing

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Collins
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2020 8:11 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch - Again

 

I recall one in the Austin Healey magazine several years ago; I used it to rebuilt mine. Not sure I can find the article but maybe in the history archived files.

Regards, 

Richard C

BN7 440





On Mar 26, 2020, at 16:34, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au <mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> > wrote:

? 

Hello

 

Would anyone have the article or whatever on repairing the original Lucas master switch they could send me please?

 

Thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 


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From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Thu Mar 26 18:23:31 2020
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2020 20:23:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Master Switch - Again
In-Reply-To: <BN6PR15MB1698F3F7677DAEB5CCE2EE26BFCC0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000c01d603b6$55b5d740$012185c0$@tpg.com.au>
 <BN6PR15MB1698F3F7677DAEB5CCE2EE26BFCC0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <008201d603cd$f2c93560$d85ba020$@verizon.net>

Look at:

 

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/et203d.htm

 

Also: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/electr_2.htm

 

For articles on changing polarity. You can find these on my site at: Technical page Electrical Section First listing

 

John Sims

 <http://www.healey6.com/> www.healey6.com

Matawan, NJ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Collins
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2020 8:11 PM
To: Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Master Switch - Again

 

I recall one in the Austin Healey magazine several years ago; I used it to rebuilt mine. Not sure I can find the article but maybe in the history archived files.

Regards, 

Richard C

BN7 440





On Mar 26, 2020, at 16:34, Patrick & Caroline Quinn <p_cquinn at tpg.com.au <mailto:p_cquinn at tpg.com.au> > wrote:

? 

Hello

 

Would anyone have the article or whatever on repairing the original Lucas master switch they could send me please?

 

Thanks

 

Patrick Quinn

Blue Mountains, Australia

 


 <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Thu Mar 26 18:57:55 2020
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2020 17:57:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel question
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqOnwgTNZkEfoF4_3WiGhKvACxKV-QDM4m83Y41g4mdMcw@mail.gmail.com>

Where is the steering wheel in a 3000 with a non-adjustable column located
in relation to one with an adjustable column? I know the adjustable column
allows the steering wheel to get closer to the dash. But does it allow the
wheel to extend further out than the non-adjustable wheel?
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Thu Mar 26 19:38:32 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Thu, 26 Mar 2020 21:38:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel question
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqOnwgTNZkEfoF4_3WiGhKvACxKV-QDM4m83Y41g4mdMcw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAKkXjqOnwgTNZkEfoF4_3WiGhKvACxKV-QDM4m83Y41g4mdMcw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.58.1585273117.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

The two columns types, from the forward side of the steering box front covers to the end of the splines are, pretty much the same length. That would lead you to think the steering wheel on the adjustable type would move closer to the dash than the fixed wheel. The location of the splines in the wheels are in a different location fore and aft.  The collect on the adjustable wheel is forward on the wheel hub and the fixed wheel splines are just under the retaining nut.  So after going back to the garage and making some crude measurements it looks like the adjustable steering wheel can be about two inches closer to the dash.  Could be wrong as its almost bed time?.
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: richard mayor
Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2020 8:58 PM
To: healeys
Subject: [Healeys] Steering wheel question

Where is the steering wheel in a 3000 with a non-adjustable column located in relation to one with an adjustable column? I know the adjustable column allows the steering wheel to get closer to the dash. But does it allow the wheel to extend further out than the non-adjustable wheel? 

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Mar 27 11:54:26 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 17:54:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Closures
References: <415744365.3219312.1585331666544.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <415744365.3219312.1585331666544@mail.yahoo.com>

I hope you have all the parts you need.? The virus is starting to effect the hobby.? So far Ahead4Healeys and Victoria British are closed to catalog sales.? This will probably spread to our other suppliers as this pandemic gets worse before it gets better.? We may have to rely on each other for parts and such if we are having a mechanical emergency.? I'm ready to share any extra parts I have with anyone that needs it.? Heaven knows this list is one of the most generous bunch of people I have ever known.Mike MacLean56 BN260 Bugeye69 MGB GT
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From cmmasucci at gmail.com  Fri Mar 27 12:18:51 2020
From: cmmasucci at gmail.com (Chris Masucci)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 13:18:51 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Closures
In-Reply-To: <415744365.3219312.1585331666544@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <415744365.3219312.1585331666544.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <415744365.3219312.1585331666544@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ8gh0URxWGRshjqiA1ARZUGfy7E+QJN0E4ZgStVdJxaMZp-BQ@mail.gmail.com>

I'm down with that.  I have some spares.  If anyone gets stuck in the Des
Moines, IA area I can help out, and could of course ship something
somewhere for emergencies.

Might I suggest that if you are in that situation that the title of the
email start like so, EMERGENCY PARTS - LOCATION.  In the body tell us what
you need and hopefully someone on the list is close and can help.
Chris
BJ8

On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 12:54 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
wrote:

> I hope you have all the parts you need.  The virus is starting to effect
> the hobby.  So far Ahead4Healeys and Victoria British are closed to catalog
> sales.  This will probably spread to our other suppliers as this pandemic
> gets worse before it gets better.  We may have to rely on each other for
> parts and such if we are having a mechanical emergency.  I'm ready to share
> any extra parts I have with anyone that needs it.  Heaven knows this list
> is one of the most generous bunch of people I have ever known.
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 Bugeye
> 69 MGB GT
>
>
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From healeydoc at gmail.com  Fri Mar 27 14:58:45 2020
From: healeydoc at gmail.com (David Nock)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 13:58:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] EMERGENCY PARTS - LOCATION
In-Reply-To: <CAJ8gh0URxWGRshjqiA1ARZUGfy7E+QJN0E4ZgStVdJxaMZp-BQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <415744365.3219312.1585331666544.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <415744365.3219312.1585331666544@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ8gh0URxWGRshjqiA1ARZUGfy7E+QJN0E4ZgStVdJxaMZp-BQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3B214595DCB0468EB18ABAC0039F8F8C@DavidNockHP>

We are still here to get you what we can.


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: Chris Masucci 
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2020 11:18 AM
To: Michael MacLean 
Cc: Healeys 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Closures

I'm down with that.  I have some spares.  If anyone gets stuck in the Des Moines, IA area I can help out, and could of course ship something somewhere for emergencies.

Might I suggest that if you are in that situation that the title of the email start like so, EMERGENCY PARTS - LOCATION.  In the body tell us what you need and hopefully someone on the list is close and can help.
Chris
BJ8

On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 12:54 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:

  I hope you have all the parts you need.  The virus is starting to effect the hobby.  So far Ahead4Healeys and Victoria British are closed to catalog sales.  This will probably spread to our other suppliers as this pandemic gets worse before it gets better.  We may have to rely on each other for parts and such if we are having a mechanical emergency.  I'm ready to share any extra parts I have with anyone that needs it.  Heaven knows this list is one of the most generous bunch of people I have ever known.
  Mike MacLean
  56 BN2
  60 Bugeye
  69 MGB GT





--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Fri Mar 27 15:05:16 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 17:05:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Virus affecting hobby
In-Reply-To: <CAJ8gh0URxWGRshjqiA1ARZUGfy7E+QJN0E4ZgStVdJxaMZp-BQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <415744365.3219312.1585331666544.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <415744365.3219312.1585331666544@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ8gh0URxWGRshjqiA1ARZUGfy7E+QJN0E4ZgStVdJxaMZp-BQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2CA648C9-4E41-49FA-9553-94B83BF777D8@rogers.com>

Hi everyone,

Sorry for the non-Healey post, but this is important

After a couple of months I returned to Canada from Spain on the 20th of March, and I?m still in quarantine.
I just wanted to say to you all that the social isolation message has to be taken very seriously.
I watched as small trivial numbers in Spain spiralled out of control within a very short period of time, and my friends there are in complete lockdown. 

I?m posting this because I get the feeling that there?s a big demographic that don?t think this applies to them.

Best of luck to you all, and the hobby means we have something to occupy us in these strange times.

Stephen, BJ8





From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Fri Mar 27 15:05:16 2020
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 17:05:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Virus affecting hobby
In-Reply-To: <CAJ8gh0URxWGRshjqiA1ARZUGfy7E+QJN0E4ZgStVdJxaMZp-BQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <415744365.3219312.1585331666544.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <415744365.3219312.1585331666544@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ8gh0URxWGRshjqiA1ARZUGfy7E+QJN0E4ZgStVdJxaMZp-BQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2CA648C9-4E41-49FA-9553-94B83BF777D8@rogers.com>

Hi everyone,

Sorry for the non-Healey post, but this is important

After a couple of months I returned to Canada from Spain on the 20th of March, and I?m still in quarantine.
I just wanted to say to you all that the social isolation message has to be taken very seriously.
I watched as small trivial numbers in Spain spiralled out of control within a very short period of time, and my friends there are in complete lockdown. 

I?m posting this because I get the feeling that there?s a big demographic that don?t think this applies to them.

Best of luck to you all, and the hobby means we have something to occupy us in these strange times.

Stephen, BJ8





From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Fri Mar 27 16:15:43 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 15:15:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Closures
In-Reply-To: <CAJ8gh0URxWGRshjqiA1ARZUGfy7E+QJN0E4ZgStVdJxaMZp-BQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <415744365.3219312.1585331666544.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <415744365.3219312.1585331666544@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJ8gh0URxWGRshjqiA1ARZUGfy7E+QJN0E4ZgStVdJxaMZp-BQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3aus7flmjffrd454alv0fnk6sv7rhn5ghl@4ax.com>

Thanks to Michael, Chris and David.  That idea to put Emergency Parts
-- Location in the subject line would be helpful.  I read every post
on this list but I might read the Emergency Parts ones first.  I hope
that David's BCS can remain open through this time.  That would be
extremely helpful.  I live in San Diego and have a few parts for six
cylinder cars and a few more for Hundreds.

-Roland
BN1 #724 now on the road

On Fri, 27 Mar 2020 13:18:51 -0500, you wrote:

>I'm down with that.  I have some spares.  If anyone gets stuck in the Des
>Moines, IA area I can help out, and could of course ship something
>somewhere for emergencies.
>
>Might I suggest that if you are in that situation that the title of the
>email start like so, EMERGENCY PARTS - LOCATION.  In the body tell us what
>you need and hopefully someone on the list is close and can help.
>Chris
>BJ8
>
>On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 12:54 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
>wrote:
>
>> I hope you have all the parts you need.  The virus is starting to effect
>> the hobby.  So far Ahead4Healeys and Victoria British are closed to catalog
>> sales.  This will probably spread to our other suppliers as this pandemic
>> gets worse before it gets better.  We may have to rely on each other for
>> parts and such if we are having a mechanical emergency.  I'm ready to share
>> any extra parts I have with anyone that needs it.  Heaven knows this list
>> is one of the most generous bunch of people I have ever known.
>> Mike MacLean
>> 56 BN2
>> 60 Bugeye
>> 69 MGB GT
>>
>>

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Mar 27 16:23:22 2020
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 22:23:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] music video
In-Reply-To: <2018175479.8572.1585347721821@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1106840524.3275243.1585336383404.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1106840524.3275243.1585336383404@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2018175479.8572.1585347721821@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <260791584.51230.1585347802406@mail.yahoo.com>


Scroll down until you find the button to click to start the video.?

https://kpel965.com/couple-sings-what-we-are-all-feeling-homebound/
Gary Hodson




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From healeyguy at aol.com  Fri Mar 27 16:52:45 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 18:52:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] music video
In-Reply-To: <260791584.51230.1585347802406@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1106840524.3275243.1585336383404.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1106840524.3275243.1585336383404@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2018175479.8572.1585347721821@mail.yahoo.com>
 <260791584.51230.1585347802406@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.59.1585349570.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Thanks Gary

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: warthodson--- via Healeys
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2020 6:23 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] music video


Scroll down until you find the button to click to start the video.?
https://kpel965.com/couple-sings-what-we-are-all-feeling-homebound/

Gary Hodson




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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Fri Mar 27 18:23:57 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 17:23:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] music video
In-Reply-To: <260791584.51230.1585347802406@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1106840524.3275243.1585336383404.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1106840524.3275243.1585336383404@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2018175479.8572.1585347721821@mail.yahoo.com>
 <260791584.51230.1585347802406@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <q36t7flm6ck84ll4j1c0j19v7f88430s9m@4ax.com>

All I see to click on are 'share' on Facebook  or Twitter or ' Leave a
Comment'.  I went all the way to the bottom looking at a bunch of
other stuff, each with the same Share and Leave options but no button
to start anything.

Maybe the program doesn't like Firefox.  When I get a chance I'll try
another browser.

-Roland  


On Fri, 27 Mar 2020 22:23:22 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:

>
>Scroll down until you find the button to click to start the video.?
>
>https://kpel965.com/couple-sings-what-we-are-all-feeling-homebound/
>Gary Hodson
>
>
>

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Fri Mar 27 19:01:43 2020
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 18:01:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] music video
In-Reply-To: <q36t7flm6ck84ll4j1c0j19v7f88430s9m@4ax.com>
References: <1106840524.3275243.1585336383404.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1106840524.3275243.1585336383404@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2018175479.8572.1585347721821@mail.yahoo.com>
 <260791584.51230.1585347802406@mail.yahoo.com>
 <q36t7flm6ck84ll4j1c0j19v7f88430s9m@4ax.com>
Message-ID: <8b6d65f3-60cd-a48a-69a9-2cc91c62cbde@comcast.net>

Same problem.? Did a reload and found a second picture with a "GO" arrow.

Mike

On 3/27/2020 5:23 PM, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote:
> All I see to click on are 'share' on Facebook  or Twitter or ' Leave a
> Comment'.  I went all the way to the bottom looking at a bunch of
> other stuff, each with the same Share and Leave options but no button
> to start anything.
>
> Maybe the program doesn't like Firefox.  When I get a chance I'll try
> another browser.
>
> -Roland
>
>
> On Fri, 27 Mar 2020 22:23:22 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:
>
>> Scroll down until you find the button to click to start the video.
>>
>> https://kpel965.com/couple-sings-what-we-are-all-feeling-homebound/
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>>


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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From cmmasucci at gmail.com  Fri Mar 27 19:02:55 2020
From: cmmasucci at gmail.com (Chris Masucci)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 20:02:55 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] EMERGENCY PARTS - LOCATION
In-Reply-To: <3B214595DCB0468EB18ABAC0039F8F8C@DavidNockHP>
References: <3B214595DCB0468EB18ABAC0039F8F8C@DavidNockHP>
Message-ID: <85130D9D-284D-48C9-81DC-0A073EA89AD0@gmail.com>

Very happy to hear that you?re doing well and here for us.  

FYI include your location in the title. 

Chris
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 27, 2020, at 3:58 PM, David Nock <healeydoc at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> We are still here to get you what we can.
>  
>  
> David Nock
> healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
> 209 948 8767
> www.britishcarspecialists.com
> 
> Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
> British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
> by visiting the site at.
> www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
>  
> From: Chris Masucci
> Sent: Friday, March 27, 2020 11:18 AM
> To: Michael MacLean
> Cc: Healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Closures
>  
> I'm down with that.  I have some spares.  If anyone gets stuck in the Des Moines, IA area I can help out, and could of course ship something somewhere for emergencies.
>  
> Might I suggest that if you are in that situation that the title of the email start like so, EMERGENCY PARTS - LOCATION.  In the body tell us what you need and hopefully someone on the list is close and can help.
> Chris
> BJ8
>  
> On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 12:54 PM Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>> I hope you have all the parts you need.  The virus is starting to effect the hobby.  So far Ahead4Healeys and Victoria British are closed to catalog sales.  This will probably spread to our other suppliers as this pandemic gets worse before it gets better.  We may have to rely on each other for parts and such if we are having a mechanical emergency.  I'm ready to share any extra parts I have with anyone that needs it.  Heaven knows this list is one of the most generous bunch of people I have ever known.
>> Mike MacLean
>> 56 BN2
>> 60 Bugeye
>> 69 MGB GT
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com
> 
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From thehartnetts at earthlink.net  Fri Mar 27 22:23:31 2020
From: thehartnetts at earthlink.net (Len and/or Marge Hartnett)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 21:23:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] music video
In-Reply-To: <8b6d65f3-60cd-a48a-69a9-2cc91c62cbde@comcast.net>
References: <1106840524.3275243.1585336383404.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1106840524.3275243.1585336383404@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2018175479.8572.1585347721821@mail.yahoo.com>
 <260791584.51230.1585347802406@mail.yahoo.com>
 <q36t7flm6ck84ll4j1c0j19v7f88430s9m@4ax.com>
 <8b6d65f3-60cd-a48a-69a9-2cc91c62cbde@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <52073223E3FA4908B6CC0A6B78453DE9@LeonardPCPC>


I found it on You Tube.

(The Other) Len
Fairfield, CA, USA
1967 AH 3000 MkIII, HBJ8L39031

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mike Sinclair 
  To: healeys at autox.team.net 
  Sent: Friday, March 27, 2020 6:01 PM
  Subject: Re: [Healeys] music video


  Same problem.  Did a reload and found a second picture with a "GO" arrow.

  Mike


  On 3/27/2020 5:23 PM, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote:

All I see to click on are 'share' on Facebook  or Twitter or ' Leave a
Comment'.  I went all the way to the bottom looking at a bunch of
other stuff, each with the same Share and Leave options but no button
to start anything.

Maybe the program doesn't like Firefox.  When I get a chance I'll try
another browser.

-Roland  


On Fri, 27 Mar 2020 22:23:22 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:

Scroll down until you find the button to click to start the video. 

https://kpel965.com/couple-sings-what-we-are-all-feeling-homebound/
Gary Hodson




       Virus-free. www.avg.com  



------------------------------------------------------------------------------


  _______________________________________________
  Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
  Suggested annual donation  $12.75

  Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

  Healeys at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

  Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/thehartnetts at earthlink.net

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From sentenac.rw at gmail.com  Fri Mar 27 23:06:22 2020
From: sentenac.rw at gmail.com (sentenac.rw at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 22:06:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] music video
In-Reply-To: <8b6d65f3-60cd-a48a-69a9-2cc91c62cbde@comcast.net>
References: <1106840524.3275243.1585336383404.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1106840524.3275243.1585336383404@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2018175479.8572.1585347721821@mail.yahoo.com>
 <260791584.51230.1585347802406@mail.yahoo.com>
 <q36t7flm6ck84ll4j1c0j19v7f88430s9m@4ax.com>
 <8b6d65f3-60cd-a48a-69a9-2cc91c62cbde@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <2omt7ftbvnq9389tacte2bdb04imd65ber@4ax.com>

Nothing worked for me until I used a different browser.  Firefox
wouldn't work but another browser did with the second panel containing
a clickable link.

-Roland

On Fri, 27 Mar 2020 18:01:43 -0700, you wrote:

>Same problem.? Did a reload and found a second picture with a "GO" arrow.
>
>Mike
>
>On 3/27/2020 5:23 PM, sentenac.rw at gmail.com wrote:
>> All I see to click on are 'share' on Facebook  or Twitter or ' Leave a
>> Comment'.  I went all the way to the bottom looking at a bunch of
>> other stuff, each with the same Share and Leave options but no button
>> to start anything.
>>
>> Maybe the program doesn't like Firefox.  When I get a chance I'll try
>> another browser.
>>
>> -Roland
>>
>>
>> On Fri, 27 Mar 2020 22:23:22 +0000 (UTC), you wrote:
>>
>>> Scroll down until you find the button to click to start the video.
>>>
>>> https://kpel965.com/couple-sings-what-we-are-all-feeling-homebound/
>>> Gary Hodson
>>>
>>>
>>>

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sat Mar 28 07:11:24 2020
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 09:11:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] EMERGENCY PARTS - LOCATION
In-Reply-To: <85130D9D-284D-48C9-81DC-0A073EA89AD0@gmail.com>
References: <3B214595DCB0468EB18ABAC0039F8F8C@DavidNockHP>
 <85130D9D-284D-48C9-81DC-0A073EA89AD0@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <814998196.25260066.1585401084784.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

I have a few parts (BJ8)  in the Pittsburgh, Pa area--------tom
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Masucci <cmmasucci at gmail.com>
To: David Nock <healeydoc at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, 27 Mar 2020 21:02:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] EMERGENCY PARTS - LOCATION

Very happy to hear that you?re doing well and here for us.  
FYI include your location in the title. 

ChrisSent from my iPhone
On Mar 27, 2020, at 3:58 PM, David Nock <healeydoc at gmail.com> wrote:

?

We are still here to get you what we can.  David 
Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 
8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman 
Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for 
your favorites 
by visiting the site 
at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org
 From:Chris 
MasucciSent: Friday, March 27, 2020 11:18 AMTo:Michael MacLeanCc:HealeysSubject: Re: [Healeys] Closures I'm down with that.  I have some spares.  If anyone gets stuck in 
the Des Moines, IA area I can help out, and could of course ship something 
somewhere for emergencies. Might I suggest that if you are in that situation that the title of the 
email start like so, EMERGENCY PARTS - LOCATION.  In the body tell us what 
you need and hopefully someone on the list is close and can help.ChrisBJ8 On Fri, Mar 27, 2020 at 12:54 PM Michael MacLean 
<rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
I hope you have all the parts you need.  The virus is 
 starting to effect the hobby.  So far Ahead4Healeys and Victoria British 
 are closed to catalog sales.  This will probably spread to our other 
 suppliers as this pandemic gets worse before it gets better.  We may have 
 to rely on each other for parts and such if we are having a mechanical 
 emergency.  I'm ready to share any extra parts I have with anyone that 
 needs it.  Heaven knows this list is one of the most generous bunch of 
 people I have ever known.Mike MacLean56 BN260 Bugeye69 MGB GT



_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  
$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Mar 28 07:41:17 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 09:41:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Emergency Parts -Beaver Falls PA
Message-ID: <mailman.60.1585402880.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers
We are not a Moss wholesaler any longer, that was 35 years in another time and place, but we do have a bunch of parts on the shelves. Mostly used bits collected over the last 50+ years. Suspect in the light of the current virus issue there will be a lot less long distance LBC driving, however if you need something this list is a good place to ask.
Perry

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sat Mar 28 07:49:35 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 13:49:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Horn button-previous thread
Message-ID: <BN6PR15MB1698C650FA1AE4916727D5CEBFCD0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

This horn button is on my early BN7; from a 100-6 or no? Lightning bolt with a six in it.
FYI re On-off switch in my boot which I rebuilt, it has the Lucas cat on it

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From schottc at knology.net  Sat Mar 28 12:07:25 2020
From: schottc at knology.net (Charles Schott)
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 14:07:25 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Emergency Parts -Beaver Falls PA
In-Reply-To: <20200328134136.A0AEAA1336@autox.team.net>
References: <20200328134136.A0AEAA1336@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <378842382.6416494.1585418845923.JavaMail.zimbra@knology.net>

Perry, 

I still haven't heard from Andy regarding the oil pan. Is he interested in selling it? 

Thanks. 

Regards, 

Charlie 

----- Original Message -----

From: "Perry via Healeys" <healeys at autox.team.net> 
To: healeys at autox.team.net 
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2020 8:41:17 AM 
Subject: [Healeys] Emergency Parts -Beaver Falls PA 



Listers 

We are not a Moss wholesaler any longer, that was 35 years in another time and place, but we do have a bunch of parts on the shelves. Mostly used bits collected over the last 50+ years. Suspect in the light of the current virus issue there will be a lot less long distance LBC driving, however if you need something this list is a good place to ask. 

Perry 



Sent from Mail for Windows 10 



_______________________________________________ 
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive 

Healeys at autox.team.net 
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sat Mar 28 12:30:33 2020
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 11:30:33 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Horn button-previous thread
In-Reply-To: <BN6PR15MB1698C650FA1AE4916727D5CEBFCD0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BN6PR15MB1698C650FA1AE4916727D5CEBFCD0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeRkRGr6nfEvrZOVMTC540mXbxu4QQaEbDEE3p-epKdQuA@mail.gmail.com>

Richard,

This should be correct for your BN7.

See my attached set of photos of the full range of AH switches that I
restore.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sat, Mar 28, 2020 at 6:55 AM Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
wrote:

> This horn button is on my early BN7; from a 100-6 or no? Lightning bolt
> with a six in it.
> FYI re On-off switch in my boot which I rebuilt, it has the Lucas cat on it
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
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>
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sat Mar 28 12:47:25 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 18:47:25 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Horn button-previous thread
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeRkRGr6nfEvrZOVMTC540mXbxu4QQaEbDEE3p-epKdQuA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BN6PR15MB1698C650FA1AE4916727D5CEBFCD0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAJKrNeRkRGr6nfEvrZOVMTC540mXbxu4QQaEbDEE3p-epKdQuA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BN6PR15MB169820B0556585B89700B739BFCD0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

Excellent! Yup , I thought I had a 100-6 button on my BN7 with adjustable wheel but obviously not.
Great info !

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 440

On Mar 28, 2020, at 13:30, Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

?
Richard,

This should be correct for your BN7.

See my attached set of photos of the full range of AH switches that I restore.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sat, Mar 28, 2020 at 6:55 AM Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com<mailto:gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>> wrote:
This horn button is on my early BN7; from a 100-6 or no? Lightning bolt with a six in it.
FYI re On-off switch in my boot which I rebuilt, it has the Lucas cat on it

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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<Austin Healey Flyer Pictures.pdf>
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From nmcd10 at gmail.com  Sat Mar 28 12:55:56 2020
From: nmcd10 at gmail.com (Neil McDonald)
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 11:55:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN6 Hardtop Assembly
Message-ID: <CAM8RsFcGhk8Uoy8QHMy2xX+c5h6Ec16dJ5wYrFe6GzUyCjL3GQ@mail.gmail.com>

After a delay of many years with it stored in pieces, starting to
reassemble this Healey hardtop. Found a useful article by Roger Moment
online which he rightly describes the task as a bit of a Chinese puzzle.
Right now struggling to slide the liner back into the hardtop shell. No
problem until it sticks and comes up about 6? short of its destination.
Removed the two front pieces of spacer carpeting stuck to the shell and
that helped a bit but it?s now binding on the previously installed edge
trim around the door opening. Don?t really want to take them off again! Any
suggestions out there?

Neil
BN6
Vancouver
-- 
____________________
Neil & Pam McDonald

Email: nmcd10 at gmail.com
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From mlempert at bellsouth.net  Sat Mar 28 12:58:08 2020
From: mlempert at bellsouth.net (Michael Lempert)
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 14:58:08 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] EMERGENCY PARTS - LOCATION
Message-ID: <mailman.61.1585421890.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

If your steering wheel breaks down, I can help. ?

Regards,
Mike Lempert

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Sat Mar 28 23:15:25 2020
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Sat, 28 Mar 2020 22:15:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Horn button-previous thread
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeRkRGr6nfEvrZOVMTC540mXbxu4QQaEbDEE3p-epKdQuA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <BN6PR15MB1698C650FA1AE4916727D5CEBFCD0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJKrNeRkRGr6nfEvrZOVMTC540mXbxu4QQaEbDEE3p-epKdQuA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1c4c01d60589$0fae54f0$2f0afed0$@roadrunner.com>

My rather late BN7 had the flash with the circle 6 in it.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curtis Arndt
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2020 11:31 AM
To: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn button-previous thread

 

Richard,

 

This should be correct for your BN7.

 

See my attached set of photos of the full range of AH switches that I restore.

 

Cheers,

 

Curt

 

On Sat, Mar 28, 2020 at 6:55 AM Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com <mailto:gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com> > wrote:

This horn button is on my early BN7; from a 100-6 or no? Lightning bolt with a six in it.
FYI re On-off switch in my boot which I rebuilt, it has the Lucas cat on it

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Mar 29 09:03:01 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 11:03:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN7
Message-ID: <mailman.64.1585494187.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Listers 
Received a call from an old Austin Healey friend and British car nut in Hawaii last night. Brett mentioned that he had very recently acquired a 1960 BN7, white with red interior from a very long term Austin Healey owners widow. Brett bought the car with the intention of helping Roy?s widow but not really wanting another big Healey in the garage. Roy had owned this car from new and after he passed, his wife, along with Roy?s life long mechanic friend maintained the car. It runs and drives and has a current safety check (Annual Hawaii Safety Inspection). 
I mentioned that there may be someone on the list that would be looking for a BN7 and if that is you please let me know off list and I?ll pass contact and other info, asking price, etc, to you as soon as I get it. 
Current understanding is that the car would be available from a US west coast port. In other words Brett would ship the car from Honolulu to a west coast port.  You pick up or arrange pickup from there. 
By the way I have no financial interest in this car, just trying to be helpful. 

Perry


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Mar 29 09:05:08 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 08:05:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] DMV
Message-ID: <a186f53a-728e-ba88-c541-56716112de75@comcast.net>

I just caught a news article about all California DMV offices being 
closed due to the virus, and all appointments have been canceled (the 
notice was buried under 'Appointments' on the DMV website).? My birthday 
is May 26 (anyone wants to send presents, preferably cash, PM me and 
I'll send my address).? I had an appt. scheduled for April 1--which is 
somehow fitting--to get a 'RealID' and my license expires this year.?? 
Sheesh, I scheduled the appt.? a couple months ago and this one was 
among the earliest I could get.

Sooooooooo ... now what?? I guess I'll be driving with an expired 
license, assuming the DMV doesn't re-open soon and/or give preferences 
to canceled appointments.?? Fortunately, I re-upped my passport a couple 
months ago, but it doesn't grant driving privileges.

Bob

From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Sun Mar 29 09:23:55 2020
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 15:23:55 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Horn button-previous thread
In-Reply-To: <1c4c01d60589$0fae54f0$2f0afed0$@roadrunner.com>
References: <BN6PR15MB1698C650FA1AE4916727D5CEBFCD0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJKrNeRkRGr6nfEvrZOVMTC540mXbxu4QQaEbDEE3p-epKdQuA@mail.gmail.com>,
 <1c4c01d60589$0fae54f0$2f0afed0$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <BN6PR15MB169856718070B0CDDC5A2F48BFCA0@BN6PR15MB1698.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

So I wonder if any of my car (April 1959 build) has any leftover 100-6 parts; thinking no at the moment. Since it was a garage find near SFO and had mods from a prior owner, (fiberglass wings, upgraded engine, no logos etc) I suppose it is of no concern to me, maybe just historians. I put 75-80 miles on it yesterday on a back country drive to escape Being house bound (non stop as all parks, etc are closed). I just hope we can ALL enjoy the change in seasons sooner rather than later.

Regards,
Richard C


On Mar 29, 2020, at 00:15, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com> wrote:

?
My rather late BN7 had the flash with the circle 6 in it.

Bruce Steele
Brea, CA
1960 BN7

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Curtis Arndt
Sent: Saturday, March 28, 2020 11:31 AM
To: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Horn button-previous thread

Richard,

This should be correct for your BN7.

See my attached set of photos of the full range of AH switches that I restore.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sat, Mar 28, 2020 at 6:55 AM Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com<mailto:gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com>> wrote:
This horn button is on my early BN7; from a 100-6 or no? Lightning bolt with a six in it.
FYI re On-off switch in my boot which I rebuilt, it has the Lucas cat on it

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Mar 29 09:31:52 2020
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 15:31:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] DMV
In-Reply-To: <a186f53a-728e-ba88-c541-56716112de75@comcast.net>
References: <a186f53a-728e-ba88-c541-56716112de75@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BYAPR08MB4664E52A5C56133EF00835FAA4CA0@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

I also have/had a 
DMV appointment this next week. They are extending the license by 90 days. Don?t bother calling as they don?t return the call even if you respond to their voice message. 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 29, 2020, at 8:05 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> ?I just caught a news article about all California DMV offices being closed due to the virus, and all appointments have been canceled (the notice was buried under 'Appointments' on the DMV website).  My birthday is May 26 (anyone wants to send presents, preferably cash, PM me and I'll send my address).  I had an appt. scheduled for April 1--which is somehow fitting--to get a 'RealID' and my license expires this year.   Sheesh, I scheduled the appt.  a couple months ago and this one was among the earliest I could get.
> 
> Sooooooooo ... now what?  I guess I'll be driving with an expired license, assuming the DMV doesn't re-open soon and/or give preferences to canceled appointments.   Fortunately, I re-upped my passport a couple months ago, but it doesn't grant driving privileges.
> 
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tahoehealey at hotmail.com
> 

From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Mar 29 09:39:44 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 08:39:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] DMV
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR08MB4664E52A5C56133EF00835FAA4CA0@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
References: <a186f53a-728e-ba88-c541-56716112de75@comcast.net>
 <BYAPR08MB4664E52A5C56133EF00835FAA4CA0@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <cd0205c5-fb6b-2eaf-372e-e5406660a5d2@comcast.net>

Good to know, thanks (where did you catch that, BTW; I didn't see it on 
their--horribly confusing--website?).

This may be a blessing as I haven't had a haircut in a while and would 
have taken a photo of my 1960s self.

bs

ps.? I'll betcha it takes more than 90 days to clear their backlog; 
here's hoping they prioritize by birthday.


On 3/29/2020 8:31 AM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> I also have/had a
> DMV appointment this next week. They are extending the license by 90 days. Don?t bother calling as they don?t return the call even if you respond to their voice message.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Mar 29, 2020, at 8:05 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?I just caught a news article about all California DMV offices being closed due to the virus, and all appointments have been canceled (the notice was buried under 'Appointments' on the DMV website).  My birthday is May 26 (anyone wants to send presents, preferably cash, PM me and I'll send my address).  I had an appt. scheduled for April 1--which is somehow fitting--to get a 'RealID' and my license expires this year.   Sheesh, I scheduled the appt.  a couple months ago and this one was among the earliest I could get.
>>
>> Sooooooooo ... now what?  I guess I'll be driving with an expired license, assuming the DMV doesn't re-open soon and/or give preferences to canceled appointments.   Fortunately, I re-upped my passport a couple months ago, but it doesn't grant driving privileges.
>>
>> Bob
>>


From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Sun Mar 29 09:45:10 2020
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 15:45:10 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] DMV
In-Reply-To: <cd0205c5-fb6b-2eaf-372e-e5406660a5d2@comcast.net>
References: <a186f53a-728e-ba88-c541-56716112de75@comcast.net>
 <BYAPR08MB4664E52A5C56133EF00835FAA4CA0@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>,
 <cd0205c5-fb6b-2eaf-372e-e5406660a5d2@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BYAPR08MB46643E7561039D3E94431481A4CA0@BYAPR08MB4664.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

There was a list of closed Gov offices and the extension was listed there but I don't think I could find it again. I was only looking for the Travel ID but my license is up in Oct. Yes and I haven't had a hair cut since December.

________________________________
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2020 8:39 AM
To: Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [OT] DMV

Good to know, thanks (where did you catch that, BTW; I didn't see it on
their--horribly confusing--website?).

This may be a blessing as I haven't had a haircut in a while and would
have taken a photo of my 1960s self.

bs

ps.  I'll betcha it takes more than 90 days to clear their backlog;
here's hoping they prioritize by birthday.


On 3/29/2020 8:31 AM, Richard Kahn wrote:
> I also have/had a
> DMV appointment this next week. They are extending the license by 90 days. Don?t bother calling as they don?t return the call even if you respond to their voice message.
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Mar 29, 2020, at 8:05 AM, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?I just caught a news article about all California DMV offices being closed due to the virus, and all appointments have been canceled (the notice was buried under 'Appointments' on the DMV website).  My birthday is May 26 (anyone wants to send presents, preferably cash, PM me and I'll send my address).  I had an appt. scheduled for April 1--which is somehow fitting--to get a 'RealID' and my license expires this year.   Sheesh, I scheduled the appt.  a couple months ago and this one was among the earliest I could get.
>>
>> Sooooooooo ... now what?  I guess I'll be driving with an expired license, assuming the DMV doesn't re-open soon and/or give preferences to canceled appointments.   Fortunately, I re-upped my passport a couple months ago, but it doesn't grant driving privileges.
>>
>> Bob
>>

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Sun Mar 29 15:40:23 2020
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 22:40:23 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
Message-ID: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>

A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000's engine?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPag
eName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
<https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPa
geName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649>
&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But,
but...our engines are long and heavy.

What does the team think?

Thanks,

Simon

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Mar 29 15:47:18 2020
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 21:47:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR2201MB1462573CCA767C00025BFBDAD1CA0@CY4PR2201MB1462.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

I always thought that an Austin-Healey 6 cyl. Engine with gearbox and overdrive weight 720 pounds or approximately 330 kg. If the numbers I have been told are correct, then I would say that it certainly would support a 6 cyl. Austin-Healey engine. The fact that there are two wheels at the front also help quite a bit and they are far enough apart. I certainly would not go for the engine stands that have only one wheel at the front.

Jean
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
Sent: March 29, 2020 4:41 PM
To: 'Healeys'<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand

A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s engine?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649<https://nam05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2FBluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand%2F164136212203%3FssPageName%3DSTRK%253AMEBIDX%253AIT%26_trksid%3Dp2060353.m1438.l2649&data=02%7C01%7C%7C5c45bb825fc7422020a608d7d429e4d8%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637211148706206561&sdata=RWJuuxbVkWKiasbJ2oP8rewgrVAGrZEv8fG3qYQxFNo%3D&reserved=0>
Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But, but?..our engines are long and heavy.
What does the team think?
Thanks,
Simon

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Mar 29 15:52:30 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 17:52:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLSk6eYCbHm1tBPDPJ0M1vu9bYVcsLi6PRe5DuoaynmJQ@mail.gmail.com>

I just did a BT7 engine on exactly that stand and other than the fact that
I had to turn up some stand-off tubes to enable fitting of the flywheel and
that the clutch could not be fitted with the engine in the stand it was
okay.
M


On Sun, Mar 29, 2020, 5:40 PM , <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:

> A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s
> engine?
>
>
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
>
> Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But,
> but?..our engines are long and heavy.
>
> What does the team think?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bluehealey at gmail.com  Sun Mar 29 15:49:49 2020
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 22:49:49 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <6B3194E9-94C9-4B59-B94D-10442E694A63@gmail.com>

Hi Simon.
Yes it will be but don?t mount the engine to the stand at the back of the block. Make a plate to fit the engine mount on the exhaust side and weld it to suitable short stand-offs to allow it to be bolted to the face plate of the stand.
With side mounting the cantilever is quite short. Mounting on the exhaust side will allow ancillaries to be fitted easily on the tapper/dizzy side.

If you want to be clever adjust the relationship of the engine mount to the face plate to try and get close to centre of balance. It will have an offset upward and backward of a few inches.
Good luck.
Alan - from my iPad

> On 29 Mar 2020, at 22:40, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
> 
> ?
> A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s engine?
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
> Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But, but?..our engines are long and heavy.
> What does the team think?
> Thanks,
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com
> 
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Mar 29 16:23:19 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 18:23:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <6B3194E9-94C9-4B59-B94D-10442E694A63@gmail.com>
References: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <6B3194E9-94C9-4B59-B94D-10442E694A63@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJF6X8EatF=kZ54eGvymwjQyVgMgLyfOkushOxBFFiycg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Alan,
I tried to do that but couldn't figure out where to attach the adaptor
strongly to the block. Can you send me a pic of what you used and where it
attaches.
This is how I mount 100 blocks on 1 arm of my hoist.
M

On Sun, Mar 29, 2020, 5:49 PM Bluehealey, <bluehealey at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Simon.
> Yes it will be but don?t mount the engine to the stand at the back of the
> block. Make a plate to fit the engine mount on the exhaust side and weld it
> to suitable short stand-offs to allow it to be bolted to the face plate of
> the stand.
> With side mounting the cantilever is quite short. Mounting on the exhaust
> side will allow ancillaries to be fitted easily on the tapper/dizzy side.
>
> If you want to be clever adjust the relationship of the engine mount to
> the face plate to try and get close to centre of balance. It will have an
> offset upward and backward of a few inches.
> Good luck.
> Alan - from my iPad
>
> On 29 Mar 2020, at 22:40, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>
> ?
>
> A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s
> engine?
>
>
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
>
> Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But,
> but?..our engines are long and heavy.
>
> What does the team think?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From ab7vf at yahoo.com  Sun Mar 29 17:40:01 2020
From: ab7vf at yahoo.com (jim)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 23:40:01 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <6B3194E9-94C9-4B59-B94D-10442E694A63@gmail.com>
References: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <6B3194E9-94C9-4B59-B94D-10442E694A63@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <823413905.509427.1585525201764@mail.yahoo.com>

 Excellent suggestion ....did a "name-less" inline this way ...worked great
Jim

    On Sunday, March 29, 2020, 9:50:07 PM UTC, Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com> wrote:lle 
 
 Hi Simon.Yes it will be but don?t mount the engine to the stand at the back of the block. Make a plate to fit the engine mount on the exhaust side and weld it to suitable short stand-offs to allow it to be bolted to the face plate of the stand.With side mounting the cantilever is quite short. Mounting on the exhaust side will allow ancillaries to be fitted easily on the tapper/dizzy side.
If you want to be clever adjust the relationship of the engine mount to the face plate to try and get close to centre of balance. It will have an offset upward and backward of a few inches.Good luck.
Alan - from my iPad

On 29 Mar 2020, at 22:40, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:



?

A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s engine?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But, but?..our engines are long and heavy.

What does the team think?

Thanks,

Simon
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation ?$12.75

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Mar 29 22:29:52 2020
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 21:29:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Spam
Message-ID: <9552d849-fe53-67da-b806-ef4f053b2dbc@comcast.net>

Anybody else being deluged with spam emails?? I mean, I've always gotten 
a few now and then, but for the last several weeks I'm getting a couple 
dozen a day, and Comcast's servers' spam filters only flag emails from 
lists and forums I've subscribed to for years.? The spammers have gotten 
cleverer, using different domains so you can't even create effective 
filters.? Some emails are from (apparently) legit businesses, but they 
are clearly violating the CAN-SPAM act; maybe they think the gov't is 
too busy paying itself $1T in bonuses to enforce any laws?

Or am I just lucky?

Bob

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Sun Mar 29 23:31:45 2020
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (John Spaur)
Date: Sun, 29 Mar 2020 22:31:45 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Spam
In-Reply-To: <9552d849-fe53-67da-b806-ef4f053b2dbc@comcast.net>
References: <9552d849-fe53-67da-b806-ef4f053b2dbc@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <003201d60654$80fa86d0$82ef9470$@sbcglobal.net>

No but I am diligent about blocking and reporting spam. When you get a spam email, at least for Outlook do the following:

Click on File > properties, and then copy the "internet headers". Forward the email to "abuse at whatever.com or net" your email provider is, and paste the internet headers information into the body of the email. The ISP will then block that person. I have pasted the information from the email you sent the list:

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Message-ID: <9552d849-fe53-67da-b806-ef4f053b2dbc at comcast.net>
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-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2020 9:30 PM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] [OT] Spam

Anybody else being deluged with spam emails?  I mean, I've always gotten a few now and then, but for the last several weeks I'm getting a couple dozen a day, and Comcast's servers' spam filters only flag emails from lists and forums I've subscribed to for years.  The spammers have gotten cleverer, using different domains so you can't even create effective filters.  Some emails are from (apparently) legit businesses, but they are clearly violating the CAN-SPAM act; maybe they think the gov't is too busy paying itself $1T in bonuses to enforce any laws?

Or am I just lucky?

Bob
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net



From rianhey at btinternet.com  Mon Mar 30 03:37:04 2020
From: rianhey at btinternet.com (Ian Hey)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 10:37:04 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
Message-ID: <002c01d60676$c5a4fc80$50eef580$@btinternet.com>

Make a fitting to bolt to the block where the engine mounts bolt, with a
tube to fit in to the engine stand.  Works well, but I did removed the
clutch and flywheel before using this device.

 

Ian

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Mar 30 07:09:16 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 07:09:16 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <a87eb178-a7b8-7e51-12e7-09237dca6be6@porterscustom.com>

I recently bought another from O'reillys auto parts on sale for less 
than $200 delivered free.. it's an AC Delco pro series. 4 legs, 6 
casters, 2 ton. front legs removable easily for compact storage.. I 
promptly hung a Jag 6 cyl on it...with grade 8 bolts... dp

On 3/29/2020 3:40 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>
> A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s 
> engine?
>
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
>
> Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But, 
> but?..our engines are long and heavy.
>
> What does the team think?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Mon Mar 30 08:04:17 2020
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 08:04:17 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <a87eb178-a7b8-7e51-12e7-09237dca6be6@porterscustom.com>
References: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <a87eb178-a7b8-7e51-12e7-09237dca6be6@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <fb31991a-7eca-9d26-e02d-281aa0bd5d1f@porterscustom.com>

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203

Probably not available in UK....oops

On 3/30/2020 7:09 AM, David P wrote:
>
> I recently bought another from O'reillys auto parts on sale for less 
> than $200 delivered free.. it's an AC Delco pro series. 4 legs, 6 
> casters, 2 ton. front legs removable easily for compact storage.. I 
> promptly hung a Jag 6 cyl on it...with grade 8 bolts... dp
>
> On 3/29/2020 3:40 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>>
>> A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s 
>> engine?
>>
>> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
>>
>> Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But, 
>> but?..our engines are long and heavy.
>>
>> What does the team think?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Simon
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>>
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Mar 30 09:46:07 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 09:46:07 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Closures, emergency, virus
Message-ID: <b7ab3c9f-01ef-f53d-67fe-d7c2bf0d028d@bradakis.com>

Yep, things are certainly in turmoil these days, all over the planet.? 
But at least for now I will make sure the basic list functions keep on 
keepin' on, as more folks are sitting at home looking for ways to 
entertain, amuse and educate themselves.? And look for parts they can't 
find from closed businesses.

Of course, I'm not getting any younger, will be hitting 66 years old in 
a couple weeks, Team Net will be 29 on the same day, so retirement may 
be just around the corner.? We shall see.? Maybe then I'll have time to 
fix all the problems with the ancient archiving software, better spam 
and security stuff, things like that.

But for now, relax as best you can, enjoy Team Net and stay healthy, my 
friends!

mjb.



From ahbn6 at verizon.net  Mon Mar 30 10:18:56 2020
From: ahbn6 at verizon.net (ahbn6 at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 12:18:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healey6.com
References: <002c01d606ae$e9b8d910$bd2a8b30$.ref@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <002c01d606ae$e9b8d910$bd2a8b30$@verizon.net>

To build on Mark's email Healey6.com is up and running and will be available
during this ordeal and long after. There may be a minor glitch while it is
moved to a new server but my provider says that they intend to make the move
seamless. In the meantime I have about 20 items to post and some broken
links to repair. There is nothing else to do. I will be 80 in July so am
largely confined here.

 

John Sims

www.healey6.com <http://www.healey6.com/> 

Matawan, NJ

 

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Mar 30 12:38:07 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 18:38:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <fb31991a-7eca-9d26-e02d-281aa0bd5d1f@porterscustom.com>
References: <000001d60612$a80f6ed0$f82e4c70$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <a87eb178-a7b8-7e51-12e7-09237dca6be6@porterscustom.com>
 <fb31991a-7eca-9d26-e02d-281aa0bd5d1f@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <443666306.1213489.1585593487591@mail.yahoo.com>

 What does the 4 cylinder engine weigh?? Harbor Freight has a 700 lb capacity engine stand for $60.? How do you attach the 4 cylinder engine to the stand?? I find myself having time lately to assemble the engine of my BN2.? Short block is finished.? Need to put the head and the rest before dropping it in the car.
Mike MacLean

    On Monday, March 30, 2020, 7:04:33 AM PDT, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:  
 
  
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203
 
Probably not available in UK....oops
 
 On 3/30/2020 7:09 AM, David P wrote:
  
 

I recently bought another from O'reillys auto parts on sale for less than $200 delivered free.. it's an AC Delco pro series. 4 legs, 6 casters, 2 ton. front legs removable easily for compact storage.. I promptly hung a Jag 6 cyl on it...with grade 8 bolts... dp
 
 On 3/29/2020 3:40 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
  
 
#yiv7709586753 #yiv7709586753 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv7709586753 #yiv7709586753 p.yiv7709586753MsoNormal, #yiv7709586753 li.yiv7709586753MsoNormal, #yiv7709586753 div.yiv7709586753MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7709586753 a:link, #yiv7709586753 span.yiv7709586753MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7709586753 span.yiv7709586753EmailStyle17 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv7709586753 .yiv7709586753MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv7709586753 div.yiv7709586753WordSection1 {}#yiv7709586753  
A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s engine?
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
 
Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But, but?..our engines are long and heavy.
 
What does the team think?
 
Thanks,
 
Simon
  
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Mar 30 12:49:24 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 18:49:24 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
Message-ID: <a2f3409dad3586ad6e065c6a504c97254a7256b0@webmail>

Its heavy! I built my engine stand years ago out of 1/4" tube stock
but I still put a wood brace under the engine while it was on the
stand. (photo) It sat on that stand for 40+ years until I got around
to finishing the car, so I know it did the job...lightweights might be
questionable-work safe! Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "David P", "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday March 30 2020 11:38:32AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

 What does the 4 cylinder engine weigh? Harbor Freight has a 700 lb
capacity engine stand for $60. How do you attach the 4 cylinder engine
to the stand? I find myself having time lately to assemble the engine
of my BN2. Short block is finished. Need to put the head and the rest
before dropping it in the car.
Mike MacLean

    On Monday, March 30, 2020, 7:04:33 AM PDT, David P  wrote:  

	
[1]https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203
[2] 

	Probably not available in UK....oops
  On 3/30/2020 7:09 AM, David P wrote:

	I recently bought another from O'reillys auto parts on sale for less
than $200 delivered free.. it's an AC Delco pro series. 4 legs, 6
casters, 2 ton. front legs removable easily for compact storage.. I
promptly hung a Jag 6 cyl on it...with grade 8 bolts... dp
  On 3/29/2020 3:40 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com [3] wrote:

	A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a
3000?s engine? 

	
[4]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
[5] 

	Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But,
but?..our engines are long and heavy. 

	What does the team think? 

	Thanks, 

	Simon  

	_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net 
[6]http://www.team.net/donate.html [7] Suggested annual donation
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Links:
------
[1]
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203
[2]
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203
[3] mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
[4]
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
[5]
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
[6] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[7] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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[15]
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[16]
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[17] http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
[18] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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[30] http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Mar 30 13:00:13 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 19:00:13 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <a2f3409dad3586ad6e065c6a504c97254a7256b0@webmail>
References: <a2f3409dad3586ad6e065c6a504c97254a7256b0@webmail>
Message-ID: <407299668.1241658.1585594813602@mail.yahoo.com>

 I take it back.? Harbor Freight sells a 750lb capacity stand for $50.? The $60 stand has a capacity of 1000lbs and they have one with folding legs that will hold 2000lbs for $135.? The four cylinder engine can't be over 750 pounds?Mike MacLean56 BN260 Bugeye69 MGB GT

    On Monday, March 30, 2020, 11:49:30 AM PDT, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:  
 
 Its heavy!? I built my engine stand years ago out of 1/4" tube stock but I still put a wood brace under the engine while it was on the stand. (photo) It sat on that stand for 40+ years until I got around to finishing the car, so I know it did the job...lightweights might be questionable-work safe! Hank


-----------------------------------------
From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "David P", "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday March 30 2020 11:38:32AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

 What does the 4 cylinder engine weigh?? Harbor Freight has a 700 lb capacity engine stand for $60.? How do you attach the 4 cylinder engine to the stand?? I find myself having time lately to assemble the engine of my BN2.? Short block is finished.? Need to put the head and the rest before dropping it in the car.
Mike MacLean

    On Monday, March 30, 2020, 7:04:33 AM PDT, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:  
 
  
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203
 
Probably not available in UK....oops
 
 On 3/30/2020 7:09 AM, David P wrote:
  
 

I recently bought another from O'reillys auto parts on sale for less than $200 delivered free.. it's an AC Delco pro series. 4 legs, 6 casters, 2 ton. front legs removable easily for compact storage.. I promptly hung a Jag 6 cyl on it...with grade 8 bolts... dp
 
 On 3/29/2020 3:40 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
  
 
#yiv7093155620 -- filtered {}#yiv7093155620 filtered {}#yiv7093155620 p.yiv7093155620MsoNormal, #yiv7093155620 li.yiv7093155620MsoNormal, #yiv7093155620 div.yiv7093155620MsoNormal {margin:0cm;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7093155620 a:link, #yiv7093155620 span.yiv7093155620MsoHyperlink {color:#0563C1;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7093155620 span.yiv7093155620EmailStyle17 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv7093155620 .yiv7093155620MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv7093155620 filtered {}#yiv7093155620 div.yiv7093155620WordSection1 {}#yiv7093155620  
A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s engine?
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
 
Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But, but?..our engines are long and heavy.
 
What does the team think?
 
Thanks,
 
Simon
  
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon Mar 30 13:23:13 2020
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 19:23:13 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
Message-ID: <d749ba30b7bf98933cd6a9cb0690e31a15f677e4@webmail>

I would definatly get the 200lb. stand:PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE

	2000 lbs. Capacity Foldable Engine Stand(322)

	$13499Compare to Strongway 47032 at $219.99. SAVE $85.00The head is
still whimpy and I would add some additional web bracing to the back
of the block and support under the front (wood block). I don't know
who rates this stuff, but its like the 2 ton floor jack that folds
like a cheap suit, when used. You get what you pay for, but in this
case, safety is more important. If that block drops onto your foot
when you roll it; forget your engine and your foot. Hank
(healeyhelper.com)

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday March 30 2020 12:00:17PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

 I take it back. Harbor Freight sells a 750lb capacity stand for $50.
The $60 stand has a capacity of 1000lbs and they have one with folding
legs that will hold 2000lbs for $135. The four cylinder engine can't
be over 750 pounds?Mike MacLean56 BN260 Bugeye69 MGB GT

    On Monday, March 30, 2020, 11:49:30 AM PDT,  wrote:  

 Its heavy! I built my engine stand years ago out of 1/4" tube stock
but I still put a wood brace under the engine while it was on the
stand. (photo) It sat on that stand for 40+ years until I got around
to finishing the car, so I know it did the job...lightweights might be
questionable-work safe! Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "David P", "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday March 30 2020 11:38:32AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

 What does the 4 cylinder engine weigh? Harbor Freight has a 700 lb
capacity engine stand for $60. How do you attach the 4 cylinder engine
to the stand? I find myself having time lately to assemble the engine
of my BN2. Short block is finished. Need to put the head and the rest
before dropping it in the car.
Mike MacLean

    On Monday, March 30, 2020, 7:04:33 AM PDT, David P  wrote:  

	 [1]
[2]https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203
[3] 

	Probably not available in UK....oops
  On 3/30/2020 7:09 AM, David P wrote:

	I recently bought another from O'reillys auto parts on sale for less
than $200 delivered free.. it's an AC Delco pro series. 4 legs, 6
casters, 2 ton. front legs removable easily for compact storage.. I
promptly hung a Jag 6 cyl on it...with grade 8 bolts... dp
  On 3/29/2020 3:40 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com [4] wrote:

	A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a
3000?s engine? 

	 [5]
[6]https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
[7] 

	Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But,
but?..our engines are long and heavy. 

	What does the team think? 

	Thanks, 

	Simon  

	_______________________________________________ Support Team.Net  [8]
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Links:
------
[1]
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203
[2]
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203
[3]
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203
[4] mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
[5]
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
[6]
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
[7]
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
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[39]
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[40]
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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Mar 30 13:46:36 2020
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 19:46:36 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <d749ba30b7bf98933cd6a9cb0690e31a15f677e4@webmail>
References: <d749ba30b7bf98933cd6a9cb0690e31a15f677e4@webmail>
Message-ID: <CY4PR15MB1847DC9ABE76A4715F5AEBF2A5CB0@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>

For the small price difference and added safety factor I have to agree

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of gradea1 at charter.net <gradea1 at charter.net>
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2020 7:23 PM
To: 'Michael MacLean' <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

I would definatly get the 200lb. stand: <https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-capacity-foldable-engine-stand-69522.html>
[2000 lbs. Capacity Foldable Engine Stand]
PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE

2000 lbs. Capacity Foldable Engine Stand

(322)

$13499

Compare to
 Strongway 47032 at $219.99. Save $85.00
The head is still whimpy and I would add some additional web bracing to the back of the block and support under the front (wood block).  I don't know who rates this stuff, but its like the 2 ton floor jack that folds like a cheap suit, when used.  You get what you pay for, but in this case, safety is more important. If that block drops onto your foot when you roll it; forget your engine and your foot. Hank (healeyhelper.com)

-----------------------------------------

From: "Michael MacLean"
To: "Healeys"
Cc:
Sent: Monday March 30 2020 12:00:17PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

I take it back.  Harbor Freight sells a 750lb capacity stand for $50.  The $60 stand has a capacity of 1000lbs and they have one with folding legs that will hold 2000lbs for $135.  The four cylinder engine can't be over 750 pounds?
Mike MacLean
56 BN2
60 Bugeye
69 MGB GT

On Monday, March 30, 2020, 11:49:30 AM PDT, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:


Its heavy!  I built my engine stand years ago out of 1/4" tube stock but I still put a wood brace under the engine while it was on the stand. (photo) It sat on that stand for 40+ years until I got around to finishing the car, so I know it did the job...lightweights might be questionable-work safe! Hank


-----------------------------------------

From: "Michael MacLean"
To: "David P", "Healeys"
Cc:
Sent: Monday March 30 2020 11:38:32AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

What does the 4 cylinder engine weigh?  Harbor Freight has a 700 lb capacity engine stand for $60.  How do you attach the 4 cylinder engine to the stand?  I find myself having time lately to assemble the engine of my BN2.  Short block is finished.  Need to put the head and the rest before dropping it in the car.
Mike MacLean

On Monday, March 30, 2020, 7:04:33 AM PDT, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:



<https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203><https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203>https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203

Probably not available in UK....oops

On 3/30/2020 7:09 AM, David P wrote:

I recently bought another from O'reillys auto parts on sale for less than $200 delivered free.. it's an AC Delco pro series. 4 legs, 6 casters, 2 ton. front legs removable easily for compact storage.. I promptly hung a Jag 6 cyl on it...with grade 8 bolts... dp

On 3/29/2020 3:40 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:

A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s engine?

<https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649><https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649>https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But, but?..our engines are long and heavy.

What does the team think?

Thanks,

Simon



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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Mon Mar 30 13:52:35 2020
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 12:52:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <CY4PR15MB1847DC9ABE76A4715F5AEBF2A5CB0@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
References: <d749ba30b7bf98933cd6a9cb0690e31a15f677e4@webmail>
 <CY4PR15MB1847DC9ABE76A4715F5AEBF2A5CB0@CY4PR15MB1847.namprd15.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <257b01d606cc$c414f090$4c3ed1b0$@roadrunner.com>

I used this on my 3000 engine, bolted to the butt end, with no problems.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2020 12:47 PM
To: gradea1 at charter.net; 'Michael MacLean' <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

 

For the small price difference and added safety factor I have to agree

 

Bill Lawrence

BN1 #554

  _____  

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > on behalf of gradea1 at charter.net
<mailto:gradea1 at charter.net>  <gradea1 at charter.net
<mailto:gradea1 at charter.net> >
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2020 7:23 PM
To: 'Michael MacLean' <rrengineer.mike at att.net
<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> >
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand 

 

I would definatly get the 200lb. stand:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-capacity-foldable-engine-stand-69522
.html>  

 
<https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-capacity-foldable-engine-stand-69522
.html> 

 
<https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-capacity-foldable-engine-stand-69522
.html> PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 

 
<https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-capacity-foldable-engine-stand-69522
.html> 2000 lbs. Capacity Foldable Engine Stand

 
<https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-capacity-foldable-engine-stand-69522
.html> (322)

 

$13499

Compare to

 Strongway 47032 at $219.99. Save $85.00

The head is still whimpy and I would add some additional web bracing to the
back of the block and support under the front (wood block).  I don't know
who rates this stuff, but its like the 2 ton floor jack that folds like a
cheap suit, when used.  You get what you pay for, but in this case, safety
is more important. If that block drops onto your foot when you roll it;
forget your engine and your foot. Hank (healeyhelper.com)

-----------------------------------------

From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday March 30 2020 12:00:17PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

I take it back.  Harbor Freight sells a 750lb capacity stand for $50.  The
$60 stand has a capacity of 1000lbs and they have one with folding legs that
will hold 2000lbs for $135.  The four cylinder engine can't be over 750
pounds?

Mike MacLean

56 BN2

60 Bugeye

69 MGB GT

 

On Monday, March 30, 2020, 11:49:30 AM PDT, <gradea1 at charter.net
<mailto:gradea1 at charter.net> > wrote: 

 

 

Its heavy!  I built my engine stand years ago out of 1/4" tube stock but I
still put a wood brace under the engine while it was on the stand. (photo)
It sat on that stand for 40+ years until I got around to finishing the car,
so I know it did the job...lightweights might be questionable-work safe!
Hank

-----------------------------------------

From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "David P", "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday March 30 2020 11:38:32AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

What does the 4 cylinder engine weigh?  Harbor Freight has a 700 lb capacity
engine stand for $60.  How do you attach the 4 cylinder engine to the stand?
I find myself having time lately to assemble the engine of my BN2.  Short
block is finished.  Need to put the head and the rest before dropping it in
the car.

Mike MacLean

 

On Monday, March 30, 2020, 7:04:33 AM PDT, David P
<frogeye at porterscustom.com <mailto:frogeye at porterscustom.com> > wrote: 

 

 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/sh
op-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f9
2/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203

Probably not available in UK....oops

On 3/30/2020 7:09 AM, David P wrote:

I recently bought another from O'reillys auto parts on sale for less than
$200 delivered free.. it's an AC Delco pro series. 4 legs, 6 casters, 2 ton.
front legs removable easily for compact storage.. I promptly hung a Jag 6
cyl on it...with grade 8 bolts... dp

On 3/29/2020 3:40 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
<mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>  wrote:

A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000's engine?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPag
eName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
<https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPa
geName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649>
&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But,
but...our engines are long and heavy.

What does the team think?

Thanks,

Simon





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World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ <http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/> 





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World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ <http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/> 

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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Mar 30 13:54:10 2020
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 15:54:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <d749ba30b7bf98933cd6a9cb0690e31a15f677e4@webmail>
References: <d749ba30b7bf98933cd6a9cb0690e31a15f677e4@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLGz7QnHaim56o279pf-VEt-07o35gSML+rtTT5AOeBnA@mail.gmail.com>

I made a side attachment adaptor for 4 cylinder engines that I hang on one
of the arms of my 2 post hoist.
[image: image.png]

[image: image.png]

Really makes things easy as I can raise and lower and rotate the engine
easily.
Unfortunately I have not been able to feel confident that the spread of the
6 cyl engine mount bolts if adequate for this type of mount.

M




On Mon, Mar 30, 2020 at 3:23 PM <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

> I would definatly get the 200lb. stand:
> [image: 2000 lbs. Capacity Foldable Engine Stand]
> PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE
>
> 2000 lbs. Capacity Foldable Engine Stand
> (322)
>
> <https://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-capacity-foldable-engine-stand-69522.html>
>
> $13499
> Compare to
>  Strongway 47032 at $219.99. *Save $85.00*
> The head is still whimpy and I would add some additional web bracing to
> the back of the block and support under the front (wood block).  I don't
> know who rates this stuff, but its like the 2 ton floor jack that folds
> like a cheap suit, when used.  You get what you pay for, but in this case,
> safety is more important. If that block drops onto your foot when you roll
> it; forget your engine and your foot. Hank (healeyhelper.com)
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Michael MacLean"
> To: "Healeys"
> Cc:
> Sent: Monday March 30 2020 12:00:17PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand
>
> I take it back.  Harbor Freight sells a 750lb capacity stand for $50.  The
> $60 stand has a capacity of 1000lbs and they have one with folding legs
> that will hold 2000lbs for $135.  The four cylinder engine can't be over
> 750 pounds?
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 Bugeye
> 69 MGB GT
>
> On Monday, March 30, 2020, 11:49:30 AM PDT, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:
>
>
> Its heavy!  I built my engine stand years ago out of 1/4" tube stock but I
> still put a wood brace under the engine while it was on the stand. (photo)
> It sat on that stand for 40+ years until I got around to finishing the car,
> so I know it did the job...lightweights might be questionable-work safe!
> Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Michael MacLean"
> To: "David P", "Healeys"
> Cc:
> Sent: Monday March 30 2020 11:38:32AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand
>
> What does the 4 cylinder engine weigh?  Harbor Freight has a 700 lb
> capacity engine stand for $60.  How do you attach the 4 cylinder engine to
> the stand?  I find myself having time lately to assemble the engine of my
> BN2.  Short block is finished.  Need to put the head and the rest before
> dropping it in the car.
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Monday, March 30, 2020, 7:04:33 AM PDT, David P <
> frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> <https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203>
> <https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203>
> https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203
>
> Probably not available in UK....oops
> On 3/30/2020 7:09 AM, David P wrote:
>
> I recently bought another from O'reillys auto parts on sale for less than
> $200 delivered free.. it's an AC Delco pro series. 4 legs, 6 casters, 2
> ton. front legs removable easily for compact storage.. I promptly hung a
> Jag 6 cyl on it...with grade 8 bolts... dp
> On 3/29/2020 3:40 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
>
> A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s
> engine?
>
>
> <https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649>
> <https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649>
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
>
> Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But,
> but?..our engines are long and heavy.
>
> What does the team think?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net  <http://www.team.net/donate.html> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
> --
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Mar 30 14:17:47 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 20:17:47 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLGz7QnHaim56o279pf-VEt-07o35gSML+rtTT5AOeBnA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d749ba30b7bf98933cd6a9cb0690e31a15f677e4@webmail>
 <CAB3i7LLGz7QnHaim56o279pf-VEt-07o35gSML+rtTT5AOeBnA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <485405581.1296196.1585599467824@mail.yahoo.com>

 Not having access or ability to weld anything into an attachment maybe I'll just have to build the engine on the floor. Not exactly ideal, but unless someone knows how to attach the 4 cylinder engine to a stand without an adapter, I'll be making my back sore bending over the engine on the floor.Mike MacLean 

    On Monday, March 30, 2020, 12:54:28 PM PDT, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 I made a side attachment adaptor for 4 cylinder engines that I hang on one of the arms of my 2 post hoist. 


Really makes things easy as I can raise and lower and rotate the engine easily.
Unfortunately I have not been able to feel confident that the spread of the 6 cyl engine mount bolts if adequate for this type of mount.
M




On Mon, Mar 30, 2020 at 3:23 PM <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

I would definatly get the 200lb. stand:PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE
2000 lbs. Capacity Foldable Engine Stand
(322)
$13499
Compare to?Strongway 47032 at $219.99.?Save $85.00The head is still whimpy and I would add some additional web bracing to the back of the block and support under the front (wood block).? I don't know who rates this stuff, but its like the 2 ton floor jack that folds like a cheap suit, when used.? You get what you pay for, but in this case, safety is more important. If that block drops onto your foot when you roll it; forget your engine and your foot. Hank (healeyhelper.com)

-----------------------------------------
From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday March 30 2020 12:00:17PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

 I take it back.? Harbor Freight sells a 750lb capacity stand for $50.? The $60 stand has a capacity of 1000lbs and they have one with folding legs that will hold 2000lbs for $135.? The four cylinder engine can't be over 750 pounds?Mike MacLean56 BN260 Bugeye69 MGB GT

    On Monday, March 30, 2020, 11:49:30 AM PDT, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:  
 
 Its heavy!? I built my engine stand years ago out of 1/4" tube stock but I still put a wood brace under the engine while it was on the stand. (photo) It sat on that stand for 40+ years until I got around to finishing the car, so I know it did the job...lightweights might be questionable-work safe! Hank


-----------------------------------------
From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "David P", "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday March 30 2020 11:38:32AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

 What does the 4 cylinder engine weigh?? Harbor Freight has a 700 lb capacity engine stand for $60.? How do you attach the 4 cylinder engine to the stand?? I find myself having time lately to assemble the engine of my BN2.? Short block is finished.? Need to put the head and the rest before dropping it in the car.
Mike MacLean

    On Monday, March 30, 2020, 7:04:33 AM PDT, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:  
 
  
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203
 
Probably not available in UK....oops
 
 On 3/30/2020 7:09 AM, David P wrote:
  
 

I recently bought another from O'reillys auto parts on sale for less than $200 delivered free.. it's an AC Delco pro series. 4 legs, 6 casters, 2 ton. front legs removable easily for compact storage.. I promptly hung a Jag 6 cyl on it...with grade 8 bolts... dp
 
 On 3/29/2020 3:40 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
  
 
 
A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s engine?
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
 
Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But, but?..our engines are long and heavy.
 
What does the team think?
 
Thanks,
 
Simon
  
  _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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  _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From mkgoodman at att.net  Mon Mar 30 15:05:05 2020
From: mkgoodman at att.net (Mark Goodman)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 17:05:05 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Thank You
References: <E7D0096C-58EA-4F2E-97B9-DD2FFEBA99F4.ref@att.net>
Message-ID: <E7D0096C-58EA-4F2E-97B9-DD2FFEBA99F4@att.net>

I want to thank Mark for his Herculean efforts to keep all of us who own Healeys up to date on what is happening in our community.  

I also want to thank John Sims for his diligent work to keep so many obscure things about our cars on his website.

God Bless both of you and may he bless you with a clean bill of health in these trying times.  Please stay inside!!!

Sincerely,

Mark Goodman

From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Mon Mar 30 15:06:28 2020
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Lawrence Swift)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 17:06:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <485405581.1296196.1585599467824@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <d749ba30b7bf98933cd6a9cb0690e31a15f677e4@webmail>
 <CAB3i7LLGz7QnHaim56o279pf-VEt-07o35gSML+rtTT5AOeBnA@mail.gmail.com>
 <485405581.1296196.1585599467824@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1373989-2779-45E5-8F68-27E3196FC69A@gmail.com>

Put the block on a sturdy table; very easy to make.

> On Mar 30, 2020, at 4:17 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> Not having access or ability to weld anything into an attachment maybe I'll just have to build the engine on the floor. Not exactly ideal, but unless someone knows how to attach the 4 cylinder engine to a stand without an adapter, I'll be making my back sore bending over the engine on the floor.
> Mike MacLean 
> 
> On Monday, March 30, 2020, 12:54:28 PM PDT, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> I made a side attachment adaptor for 4 cylinder engines that I hang on one of the arms of my 2 post hoist. 
> <image.png>
> 
> <image.png>
> 
> Really makes things easy as I can raise and lower and rotate the engine easily.
> Unfortunately I have not been able to feel confident that the spread of the 6 cyl engine mount bolts if adequate for this type of mount.
> 
> M
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Mar 30, 2020 at 3:23 PM <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:
> I would definatly get the 200lb. stand:
> 
> PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE
> 2000 lbs. Capacity Foldable Engine Stand
> (322)
> $13499
> Compare to Strongway 47032 at $219.99. Save $85.00
> The head is still whimpy and I would add some additional web bracing to the back of the block and support under the front (wood block).  I don't know who rates this stuff, but its like the 2 ton floor jack that folds like a cheap suit, when used.  You get what you pay for, but in this case, safety is more important. If that block drops onto your foot when you roll it; forget your engine and your foot. Hank (healeyhelper.com)
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "Michael MacLean" 
> To: "Healeys"
> Cc: 
> Sent: Monday March 30 2020 12:00:17PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand
> 
> I take it back.  Harbor Freight sells a 750lb capacity stand for $50.  The $60 stand has a capacity of 1000lbs and they have one with folding legs that will hold 2000lbs for $135.  The four cylinder engine can't be over 750 pounds?
> Mike MacLean
> 56 BN2
> 60 Bugeye
> 69 MGB GT
> 
> On Monday, March 30, 2020, 11:49:30 AM PDT, <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Its heavy!  I built my engine stand years ago out of 1/4" tube stock but I still put a wood brace under the engine while it was on the stand. (photo) It sat on that stand for 40+ years until I got around to finishing the car, so I know it did the job...lightweights might be questionable-work safe! Hank
> 
> -----------------------------------------
> 
> From: "Michael MacLean" 
> To: "David P", "Healeys"
> Cc: 
> Sent: Monday March 30 2020 11:38:32AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand
> 
> What does the 4 cylinder engine weigh?  Harbor Freight has a 700 lb capacity engine stand for $60.  How do you attach the 4 cylinder engine to the stand?  I find myself having time lately to assemble the engine of my BN2.  Short block is finished.  Need to put the head and the rest before dropping it in the car.
> Mike MacLean
> 
> On Monday, March 30, 2020, 7:04:33 AM PDT, David P <frogeye at porterscustom.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/acdelco-2734/tools---equipment-16488/shop-equipment-16634/lift-equipment-16815/engine-hoist-stand-18044/37ace89d5f92/acdelco-2000-lbs-engine-stand/34710/2494203
> 
> Probably not available in UK....oops
> 
>> On 3/30/2020 7:09 AM, David P wrote:
> 
> I recently bought another from O'reillys auto parts on sale for less than $200 delivered free.. it's an AC Delco pro series. 4 legs, 6 casters, 2 ton. front legs removable easily for compact storage.. I promptly hung a Jag 6 cyl on it...with grade 8 bolts... dp
> 
>> On 3/29/2020 3:40 PM, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
> 
> A quick one. Do you think that this stand is man enough for a 3000?s engine?
> 
> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bluepoint-Snap-On-Engine-Stand/164136212203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
> 
> Got to be a decent thing and, on four wheels, presumably stable. But, but?..our engines are long and heavy.
> 
> What does the team think?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Simon
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
> 
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
> 
> -- 
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rrengineer.mike at att.net
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> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
> 
> <image.png>
> <image.png>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Mar 31 06:37:18 2020
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry)
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 08:37:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Engine stand
In-Reply-To: <C1373989-2779-45E5-8F68-27E3196FC69A@gmail.com>
References: <d749ba30b7bf98933cd6a9cb0690e31a15f677e4@webmail>
 <CAB3i7LLGz7QnHaim56o279pf-VEt-07o35gSML+rtTT5AOeBnA@mail.gmail.com>
 <485405581.1296196.1585599467824@mail.yahoo.com>
 <C1373989-2779-45E5-8F68-27E3196FC69A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.65.1585658244.2961.healeys@autox.team.net>

Larry mentioned this method.  Here is a sample of the engine an trans being prepped for my Brother in Laws Hill Climb Car. 
Perry


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Lawrence Swift
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2020 5:06 PM
To: Michael MacLean
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Engine stand

Put the block on a sturdy table; very easy to make.








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From healey1955BN2 at outlook.com  Mon Mar 30 14:51:49 2020
From: healey1955BN2 at outlook.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 20:51:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Factory Rear Axle Pinion Angle
Message-ID: <BL0PR01MB4530978D2E70E44885EE3544F6CB0@BL0PR01MB4530.prod.exchangelabs.com>


Listers
Have any of you folks calculated or found a reference spec that shows what the factory pinion angle is supposed to be? Its one of the specs that we just don?t have to think about much as long as everything is in the original configuration.
Thanks
Perry

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

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From refisk at chartermi.net  Mon Mar 30 10:25:25 2020
From: refisk at chartermi.net (Rick Fisk)
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 2020 12:25:25 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] Closures, emergency, virus
In-Reply-To: <b7ab3c9f-01ef-f53d-67fe-d7c2bf0d028d@bradakis.com>
References: <b7ab3c9f-01ef-f53d-67fe-d7c2bf0d028d@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <A2376779-F728-4FB6-B76A-33E015E4400C@chartermi.net>

Thanks Mark.  This list has been pretty quiet lately.  Maybe since we are all staying home and our garages are warming up we'll get more list traffic.

Happy Birthday ahead of time!  Hope this mess doesn't screw up your retirement plans.  I'm already retired, but my 401k has taken a large hit.  And I discovered the other day that Spam is up to $2.95 a can!  Gas is $1.49 a gallon here, but we're not supposed to go anywhere.  :-)

Rick

Sent from my keyboard

> On Mar 30, 2020, at 11:48 AM, Mark J Bradakis via Spridgets <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?Yep, things are certainly in turmoil these days, all over the planet.  But at least for now I will make sure the basic list functions keep on keepin' on, as more folks are sitting at home looking for ways to entertain, amuse and educate themselves.  And look for parts they can't find from closed businesses.
> 
> Of course, I'm not getting any younger, will be hitting 66 years old in a couple weeks, Team Net will be 29 on the same day, so retirement may be just around the corner.  We shall see.  Maybe then I'll have time to fix all the problems with the ancient archiving software, better spam and security stuff, things like that.
> 
> But for now, relax as best you can, enjoy Team Net and stay healthy, my friends!
> 
> mjb.
> 
> 
> ------------------------
> 
> spridgets at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refisk at chartermi.net


From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Mar 31 08:46:00 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 07:46:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Thanks Mark
Message-ID: <CABXhz88bvYe7r2p2BtWJmQ6Y4K05nHFybkJh3DADKas1CMTu7Q@mail.gmail.com>

I just made my Spring donation to your support fund. Thanks for all.you do
to keep these lists going.
Cheers
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From 55healey at comcast.net  Tue Mar 31 10:16:09 2020
From: 55healey at comcast.net (55healey at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 2020 09:16:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] spring contribution
Message-ID: <B2703EAF-C002-469A-9494-AB780426745A@comcast.net>

Thank you for everything you do to keep autox up and operating.

Rob Westcott

55healey at comcast.net

From gmolony1 at bigpond.com  Tue Mar 31 18:46:26 2020
From: gmolony1 at bigpond.com (Graeme Molony)
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2020 11:46:26 +1100
Subject: [Healeys] [Spridgets] Closures, emergency, virus
In-Reply-To: <A2376779-F728-4FB6-B76A-33E015E4400C@chartermi.net>
References: <b7ab3c9f-01ef-f53d-67fe-d7c2bf0d028d@bradakis.com>
 <A2376779-F728-4FB6-B76A-33E015E4400C@chartermi.net>
Message-ID: <3CD8C3BB296B495BA6E2A39A1E662495@msiallinone>

Ditto from down under Mark. Happy Birthday can barely remember my 66 th 
birthday Oh how time flies really appreciate your efforts for the group. 
keeps me entertained.

Were almost locked down. down here, with possible further restrictions, 
although you can still go to the supermarket, medicos, pharmacies etc. but 
with gas at $ 3.95 per gallon US kind takes the edge off plus were heading 
into winter.

Oh well might as well go and wash the Healey as the suns shining today. 
Photo attached might start a trend

Graeme M


-----Original Message----- 
From: Rick Fisk
Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2020 3:25 AM
To: Mark J Bradakis
Cc: Spridget ; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] [Spridgets] Closures, emergency, virus

Thanks Mark.  This list has been pretty quiet lately.  Maybe since we are 
all staying home and our garages are warming up we'll get more list traffic.

Happy Birthday ahead of time!  Hope this mess doesn't screw up your 
retirement plans.  I'm already retired, but my 401k has taken a large hit. 
And I discovered the other day that Spam is up to $2.95 a can!  Gas is $1.49 
a gallon here, but we're not supposed to go anywhere.  :-)

Rick

Sent from my keyboard

> On Mar 30, 2020, at 11:48 AM, Mark J Bradakis via Spridgets 
> <spridgets at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> ?Yep, things are certainly in turmoil these days, all over the planet. 
> But at least for now I will make sure the basic list functions keep on 
> keepin' on, as more folks are sitting at home looking for ways to 
> entertain, amuse and educate themselves.  And look for parts they can't 
> find from closed businesses.
>
> Of course, I'm not getting any younger, will be hitting 66 years old in a 
> couple weeks, Team Net will be 29 on the same day, so retirement may be 
> just around the corner.  We shall see.  Maybe then I'll have time to fix 
> all the problems with the ancient archiving software, better spam and 
> security stuff, things like that.
>
> But for now, relax as best you can, enjoy Team Net and stay healthy, my 
> friends!
>
> mjb.
>
>
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets at autox.team.net
>
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>
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