From bluehealey at gmail.com  Thu Jul  1 02:25:42 2021
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2021 09:25:42 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] New topic reply: Re: Replace Front Drum Brakes with
 Disc Brakes [The 100 Forum]
In-Reply-To: <c49476fcacb2c7840a895c8648d0b478.The100Forum@www.ahexp.com>
References: <c49476fcacb2c7840a895c8648d0b478.The100Forum@www.ahexp.com>
Message-ID: <53520766-D401-4D68-BDD1-BD336F01C49E@gmail.com>

Not quite Eric.
The calipers supplied by DWR are similar to those on a BJ8 with the larger (2??) pistons. The mounting lugs however are closer together than the BJ8 lugs. 
The BJ8 caliper needs a BJ8 stub axle to fit, which adds considerably to the cost. 
The DWR kit uses an adaptor bracket, similar to the BT7, to mount the caliper to a standard (drum brake) stub axle. 
Incidentally the BT7 uses a caliper with a smaller piston diameter than the BJ8 at 7/8?. The DWR caliper, I believe, is sourced from a Ford Escort. 
JM2C. 
AlanB

Alan - from my iPad

> Hi Paul,
> 
> Yes a good suggestion.  The kit supplied by DW, I believe is basically the same as for a BJ8 since the BJ8 has the same stub axle size as a BN1.  I think the other models have a different sub axle size
> 
> Cheers,
> Eric
> 
> To reply or read more:
> https://www.ahexp.com/phorum/read.php?4,242919,243329#msg-243329
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> To STOP receiving emails about this topic, click here:
> https://www.ahexp.com/phorum/follow.php?4,242919,stop=1
> 
> To MANAGE your bookmarks, or change your email notification settings, please
> visit the Forum Control Center here:
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> 
> Thanks, The Austin-Healey Experience
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From britfan1 at epix.net  Thu Jul  1 08:29:16 2021
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2021 10:29:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Book
In-Reply-To: <233446331.1622654.1625097937381@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <EA826028-6F36-465C-A252-0AF4F98671C7@gmail.com>
 <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz>
 <ef0b8baf-8aeb-0dc4-1060-08009f1c01bb@comcast.net>
 <233446331.1622654.1625097937381@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.8.1625149767.2853.healeys@autox.team.net>

Mark ? Please tell us what the sentence said!!
Sarah Carr
BN1 in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: David Lodge via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2021 8:08 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net; Bob Spidell
Cc: David Lodge
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Book

Smokey Yunick's book is pretty good, too (mostly for V8s, but plenty of good tips):

https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/

On 1/12/2021 8:11 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
A man after my own heart, Chris. ??
?And there are also the three wonderful books by the late, great, Carroll Smith? . . .? Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and Engineer to Win.
There is a whole chapter on Lucas electrics in one other them. ?It comprises just one sentence.? ?
?
Mark
Ardmore, NZ
?
From: Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m.
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Book
?
In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book.?
?Tuning the A Series Engine?
I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles apply to B series and C Series BMC engines.?
I keep a copy beside my bed.
Mostly because I?m an insomniac.?
?
But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind at 3.00am, I can check the book....
Chris
On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com wrote:
?
Hi,
Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines? Preferably, AH 3000 engines!
The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean!
Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???..
I have looked on Google and, so far, failed.
Yes, I?ve got the manuals.
Thanks,
Simon


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Thu Jul  1 15:54:23 2021
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2021 09:54:23 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] Book
References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <EA826028-6F36-465C-A252-0AF4F98671C7@gmail.com>
 <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz>
 <ef0b8baf-8aeb-0dc4-1060-08009f1c01bb@comcast.net>
 <233446331.1622654.1625097937381@mail.yahoo.com> 
Message-ID: <003801d76ec3$a93af390$fbb0dab0$@xtra.co.nz>

Hello, Sarah,

I will try to find the page over the weekend.

But Carroll said basically something like this:  ?Lucas electrics are NFG and I do not intended to discuss them any further?.

 

I?ve had a quick look this morning but cannot find it.  I?ll have a better look over the weekend.  If I find it I?ll scan the page and post it.

 

To be honest, I?ve been using Lucas electrics for 50 years and I?ve had no problems that weren?t created by ME, taking them for granted.  And even then, they were minor.

 

Best

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 

From: S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net> 
Sent: Friday, 2 July 2021 2:29 a.m.
To: David Lodge <emmgeeteesee at gmail.com>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Book

 

Mark ? Please tell us what the sentence said!!

Sarah Carr

BN1 in PA

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

From: David Lodge via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2021 8:08 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> ; Bob Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> 
Cc: David Lodge <mailto:emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Book


Smokey Yunick's book is pretty good, too (mostly for V8s, but plenty of good tips):

https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/

On 1/12/2021 8:11 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:

A man after my own heart, Chris.  ?

 And there are also the three wonderful books by the late, great, Carroll Smith  . . .  Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and Engineer to Win.

There is a whole chapter on Lucas electrics in one other them.  It comprises just one sentence.  ?

 

Mark

Ardmore, NZ

 

From: Chris Dimmock  <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com> <austin.healey at gmail.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m.
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Cc: Healeys  <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Book

 

In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book. 

?Tuning the A Series Engine?

I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles apply to B series and C Series BMC engines. 

I keep a copy beside my bed.

Mostly because I?m an insomniac. 

?

But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind at 3.00am, I can check the book....

Chris

On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>  wrote:

?

Hi,

Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines? Preferably, AH 3000 engines!

The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean!

Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???..

I have looked on Google and, so far, failed.

Yes, I?ve got the manuals.

Thanks,

Simon

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys%20> http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk

 

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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Fri Jul  2 16:36:26 2021
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2021 18:36:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Red/White Wires - BJ8
Message-ID: <F1D0976B-C1BF-4260-AF0E-30C3288A1D32@gmail.com>

Other than the panel lights and optional cigar lighter, are there ant other devices/gauges/etc wired to red/white?  I let out a little smoke and traced it to the panel light switch.  I have installed a new wire between the switch to the gauge lights.  I have cut the line on both ends and tested it for continuity, but worry there could be another r/w wire serving another location.

Thank you for your input!!

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8

Sent from my iPad

From jhomonek at mindspring.com  Sat Jul  3 14:33:54 2021
From: jhomonek at mindspring.com (John H)
Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2021 20:33:54 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Happy - Happy
Message-ID: <208d8e7f-0ba2-dec9-f5c2-e21044a84bcc@mindspring.com>

Happy Birthday to Donald M Healey

Happy 40th Anniversary to the Atlanta Chapter of the Austin-Healey Club of America  1981 -2021

John Homonek
bn7 at mindspring.com

From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Sun Jul  4 20:59:18 2021
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 14:59:18 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.
In-Reply-To: <D9B1224D-AA6F-4663-8C7A-0D067B6994D9@hxcore.ol>
References: <1153796983.919879.1624852975843.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1153796983.919879.1624852975843@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CAKkXjqOd87AD7L6v2e7hLpP+HgOE-MsvaRyGkHkZtWbrhnpsCg@mail.gmail.com>
 <D9B1224D-AA6F-4663-8C7A-0D067B6994D9@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <000201d77149$c16a9d20$443fd760$@xtra.co.nz>

Adding to Harold?s photo of the brass breather on his rear axle, I?ve just purchased two more from a local Land-Rover dealer.

The part number is  515845     They are standard fitting on Landys from 1948?1984 and will last forever.

Cost:  NZ $19.00 each

 

Mark

Ardmore

NZ



 

From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, 30 June 2021 3:30 a.m.
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>; David Lodge <emmgeeteesee at gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.

 

Here another photo with the breather in place. I used a brass Land Rover breather in place of the original plastic Healey breather. The breather has a British Tapered pipe thread.

 

Harold

 

From: richard mayor via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2021 5:01 PM
To: David Lodge <mailto:emmgeeteesee at gmail.com> 
Cc: Austin Healey <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.

 

Here's a couple of photos.

 

On Sun, Jun 27, 2021 at 9:06 PM David Lodge via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Might anyone please have a photo with measurements of the metal circular flange/guide (?) which is riveted or spot-welded to the rear of the axle casing?

 

As you can see, mine has gone walkabout and I would like a pop at making it myself.

 

Also, there is a hole drilled in the top of the axle casing quite near the diff housing unlike the authentic breather at the opposite end.  Should I weld the hole 

up or weld another breather in its place?

 

Thanks for any and all replies!

_______________________________________________



 

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From ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz  Mon Jul  5 03:59:41 2021
From: ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz (Mark Donaldson)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 21:59:41 +1200
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.
In-Reply-To: <000001d77177$467d9080$d378b180$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <1153796983.919879.1624852975843.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1153796983.919879.1624852975843@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CAKkXjqOd87AD7L6v2e7hLpP+HgOE-MsvaRyGkHkZtWbrhnpsCg@mail.gmail.com>
 <D9B1224D-AA6F-4663-8C7A-0D067B6994D9@hxcore.ol>
 <000201d77149$c16a9d20$443fd760$@xtra.co.nz>
 <000001d77177$467d9080$d378b180$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <000c01d77184$7b14c720$713e5560$@xtra.co.nz>

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Monday, 5 July 2021 8:25 p.m.
To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.

 

I bought a pair also. I already had a plastic version fitted which I?d never really trusted not to fall out or self-destruct. The brass version screwed right in and could be tightened down with a spanner. I don?t recall the price except that it was negligible.

 

I wondered then, as I do now, why they?re sold in pairs. Do Land-Rovers use two?

Simon

 

Yes.  One for the front axle and the other for the rear axle.  

I purchased my two because they had two on the shelf.  I guess that is how they are normally sold.  That said, I could have bought just one if I wished.

 

Taking into account our New Zealand 15.0% GST and your 20% VAT I reckon yours should cost about  ?10 each, or probably even less

 

Mark

 

Ardmore

NZ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson
Sent: 05 July 2021 03:59
To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net> >; 'richard mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> >
Cc: 'Austin Healey' <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.

 

Adding to Harold?s photo of the brass breather on his rear axle, I?ve just purchased two more from a local Land-Rover dealer.

The part number is  515845     They are standard fitting on Landys from 1948?1984 and will last forever.

Cost:  NZ $19.00 each

 

Mark

Ardmore

NZ



 

From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net <mailto:manifold at telus.net> > 
Sent: Wednesday, 30 June 2021 3:30 a.m.
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com <mailto:boyracer466 at gmail.com> >; David Lodge <emmgeeteesee at gmail.com <mailto:emmgeeteesee at gmail.com> >
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.

 

Here another photo with the breather in place. I used a brass Land Rover breather in place of the original plastic Healey breather. The breather has a British Tapered pipe thread.

 

Harold

 

From: richard mayor via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2021 5:01 PM
To: David Lodge <mailto:emmgeeteesee at gmail.com> 
Cc: Austin Healey <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.

 

Here's a couple of photos.

 

On Sun, Jun 27, 2021 at 9:06 PM David Lodge via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Might anyone please have a photo with measurements of the metal circular flange/guide (?) which is riveted or spot-welded to the rear of the axle casing?

 

As you can see, mine has gone walkabout and I would like a pop at making it myself.

 

Also, there is a hole drilled in the top of the axle casing quite near the diff housing unlike the authentic breather at the opposite end.  Should I weld the hole 

up or weld another breather in its place?

 

Thanks for any and all replies!

_______________________________________________

 

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Mon Jul  5 06:04:19 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 08:04:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.
In-Reply-To: <000c01d77184$7b14c720$713e5560$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <1153796983.919879.1624852975843.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1153796983.919879.1624852975843@mail.yahoo.com>,
 <CAKkXjqOd87AD7L6v2e7hLpP+HgOE-MsvaRyGkHkZtWbrhnpsCg@mail.gmail.com>
 <D9B1224D-AA6F-4663-8C7A-0D067B6994D9@hxcore.ol>
 <000201d77149$c16a9d20$443fd760$@xtra.co.nz>
 <000001d77177$467d9080$d378b180$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <000c01d77184$7b14c720$713e5560$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <005101d77195$e4757e10$ad607a30$@rr.com>

My original plastic breather was missing a big chunk, simply brittle-ized by too many years.  Simon was gracious and generous enough to gift me with the other one of his two.  Thanks again, Simon!

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  USA

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson via Healeys
Sent: Monday, July 5, 2021 6:00 AM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
Cc: 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.

 

From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com <simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> 
Sent: Monday, 5 July 2021 8:25 p.m.
To: 'Mark Donaldson' <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
Cc: 'Healeys' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.

 

I bought a pair also. I already had a plastic version fitted which I?d never really trusted not to fall out or self-destruct. The brass version screwed right in and could be tightened down with a spanner. I don?t recall the price except that it was negligible.

 

I wondered then, as I do now, why they?re sold in pairs. Do Land-Rovers use two?

Simon

 

Yes.  One for the front axle and the other for the rear axle.  

I purchased my two because they had two on the shelf.  I guess that is how they are normally sold.  That said, I could have bought just one if I wished.

 

Taking into account our New Zealand 15.0% GST and your 20% VAT I reckon yours should cost about  ?10 each, or probably even less

 

Mark

 

Ardmore

NZ

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Mark Donaldson
Sent: 05 July 2021 03:59
To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold at telus.net>; 'richard mayor' <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
Cc: 'Austin Healey' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.

 

Adding to Harold?s photo of the brass breather on his rear axle, I?ve just purchased two more from a local Land-Rover dealer.

The part number is  515845     They are standard fitting on Landys from 1948?1984 and will last forever.

Cost:  NZ $19.00 each

 

Mark

Ardmore

NZ



 

From: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, 30 June 2021 3:30 a.m.
To: richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>; David Lodge <emmgeeteesee at gmail.com>
Cc: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.

 

Here another photo with the breather in place. I used a brass Land Rover breather in place of the original plastic Healey breather. The breather has a British Tapered pipe thread.

 

Harold

 

From: richard <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>  mayor via Healeys
Sent: Monday, June 28, 2021 5:01 PM
To: David Lodge <mailto:emmgeeteesee at gmail.com> 
Cc: Austin Healey <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 back axle.

 

Here's a couple of photos.

 

On Sun, Jun 27, 2021 at 9:06 PM David Lodge via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

Might anyone please have a photo with measurements of the metal circular flange/guide (?) which is riveted or spot-welded to the rear of the axle casing?

 

As you can see, mine has gone walkabout and I would like a pop at making it myself.

 

Also, there is a hole drilled in the top of the axle casing quite near the diff housing unlike the authentic breather at the opposite end.  Should I weld the hole 

up or weld another breather in its place?

 

Thanks for any and all replies!

_______________________________________________

 

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jul  5 12:13:41 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 14:13:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey 1977
References: <9915697E-CDCF-4CAC-B459-F5FD08299138.ref@aol.com>
Message-ID: <9915697E-CDCF-4CAC-B459-F5FD08299138@aol.com>

From the ?Way Back Machine?
In February 1977 news spread, a long time before cell phones or the internet, that DMH was on his way from Australia to San Francisco, and as was common,  there was a layover planned in Hawaii. 
The local AH club rallied the available groups to greet him. 

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And as we had heard, he was a very nice gentleman that liked a little to drink, pretty girls and laughed a lot. 
Nearly 44 years ago....
Aloha
Perry in Pennsylvania
Sent from my iPhone

From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Mon Jul  5 13:46:13 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 19:46:13 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler  -
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

Today I remember one of the most faithful contributor to this list who left us all too soon in 2012.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Mon Jul  5 13:50:21 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 15:50:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler  -
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <007e01d771d6$fd2ddba0$f78992e0$@sympatico.ca>

Thank you for the reminder Jean - he is fondly remembered every time I drive
my BT7 on which he did a body restoration in 2008.

 

Mirek

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Jean Caron
Sent: July 5, 2021 3:46 PM
To: AH Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -

 

Today I remember one of the most faithful contributor to this list who left
us all too soon in 2012.

 

Jean

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows
10

 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul  5 13:54:02 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 12:54:02 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -
In-Reply-To: <007e01d771d6$fd2ddba0$f78992e0$@sympatico.ca>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <007e01d771d6$fd2ddba0$f78992e0$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <bfb9d772-93c5-f336-ed79-2ca33acc4a2b@comcast.net>

Hear hear.

On 7/5/2021 12:50 PM, m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Thank you for the reminder Jean ? he is fondly remembered every time I 
> drive my BT7 on which he did a body restoration in 2008.
>
> Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Jean Caron
> *Sent:* July 5, 2021 3:46 PM
> *To:* AH Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -
>
> Today I remember one of the most faithful contributor to this list who 
> left us all too soon in 2012.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
>

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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Mon Jul  5 14:21:52 2021
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 13:21:52 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey 1977
In-Reply-To: <9915697E-CDCF-4CAC-B459-F5FD08299138@aol.com>
References: <9915697E-CDCF-4CAC-B459-F5FD08299138.ref@aol.com>
 <9915697E-CDCF-4CAC-B459-F5FD08299138@aol.com>
Message-ID: <ed61a454-04a5-1546-08c0-e34a908ef277@comcast.net>

That's cool.? Sounds like a perfect gentleman.? And I hear he designed 
motorcars, too.

On 7/5/2021 11:13 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote:
>  From the ?Way Back Machine?
> In February 1977 news spread, a long time before cell phones or the internet, that DMH was on his way from Australia to San Francisco, and as was common,  there was a layover planned in Hawaii.
> The local AH club rallied the available groups to greet him.
>
>
>
>
>
> And as we had heard, he was a very nice gentleman that liked a little to drink, pretty girls and laughed a lot.
> Nearly 44 years ago....
> Aloha
> Perry in Pennsylvania
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>
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From ryan at jimryan.com  Mon Jul  5 14:59:44 2021
From: ryan at jimryan.com (Jim Ryan)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 16:59:44 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey 1977
In-Reply-To: <ed61a454-04a5-1546-08c0-e34a908ef277@comcast.net>
References: <9915697E-CDCF-4CAC-B459-F5FD08299138.ref@aol.com>
 <9915697E-CDCF-4CAC-B459-F5FD08299138@aol.com>
 <ed61a454-04a5-1546-08c0-e34a908ef277@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAEajuYyGts06a03GLqrX8nd1W8n2Nag3U37S+F3uH2GRoGXkAA@mail.gmail.com>

Yep, 3 of us drove down from Boston to Jersey to meet him at a gathering
there. One of my fondest memories.

On Mon, Jul 5, 2021, 4:33 PM Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:

> That's cool.  Sounds like a perfect gentleman.  And I hear he designed
> motorcars, too.
> On 7/5/2021 11:13 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote:
>
> From the ?Way Back Machine?
> In February 1977 news spread, a long time before cell phones or the internet, that DMH was on his way from Australia to San Francisco, and as was common,  there was a layover planned in Hawaii.
> The local AH club rallied the available groups to greet him.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> And as we had heard, he was a very nice gentleman that liked a little to drink, pretty girls and laughed a lot.
> Nearly 44 years ago....
> Aloha
> Perry in Pennsylvania
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> Healeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From 67healey at gmail.com  Mon Jul  5 16:37:49 2021
From: 67healey at gmail.com (Healey)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 15:37:49 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
Message-ID: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>

 I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on
its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
 Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
retracting properly.
  Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that
goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the
driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
 So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear
brakes, not just one of them?

  Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder from
Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14 as opposed to
the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?

  Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly worn
& about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.

  Thanks in advance,

Neil
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Mon Jul  5 16:52:53 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 22:52:53 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1756959651.1808759.1625525573686@mail.yahoo.com>

NeilMaybe its not the cylinder retracting in the bore. Does the cylinder body slide easily in the backing plate??P


-----Original Message-----
From: Healey <67healey at gmail.com>
To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jul 5, 2021 6:37 pm
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake

?I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder?(drivers side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on its inaugural?run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.??Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder?was not retracting properly.?? Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to?feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.?So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?
? Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder?from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder?@ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder?@ $70), or do I replace both? or?
? Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
? Thanks in advance,
Neil?_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From llennep at verizon.net  Mon Jul  5 17:20:22 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 23:20:22 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Donald Healey 1977
In-Reply-To: <CAEajuYyGts06a03GLqrX8nd1W8n2Nag3U37S+F3uH2GRoGXkAA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <9915697E-CDCF-4CAC-B459-F5FD08299138.ref@aol.com>
 <9915697E-CDCF-4CAC-B459-F5FD08299138@aol.com>
 <ed61a454-04a5-1546-08c0-e34a908ef277@comcast.net>
 <CAEajuYyGts06a03GLqrX8nd1W8n2Nag3U37S+F3uH2GRoGXkAA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <828202710.1818530.1625527222019@mail.yahoo.com>

And it was the fall of about 77 or 78 when he appeared at I believe it was called the East Coast Meet. ?It was held at the Shenvalee Lodge in the beautiful Shenadoah Valley of Virginia. ?Near Harrisonberg as I recall. ?He spoke to attendees at two different times.


-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Ryan <ryan at jimryan.com>
To: Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net>
Cc: healeylist <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jul 5, 2021 4:59 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Donald Healey 1977

Yep, 3 of us drove down from Boston to Jersey to meet him at a gathering there. One of my fondest memories.
On Mon, Jul 5, 2021, 4:33 PM Mike Sinclair <phoenix722 at comcast.net> wrote:

  That's cool.? Sounds like a perfect gentleman.? And I hear he designed motorcars, too.
  On 7/5/2021 11:13 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote:
  
 From the ?Way Back Machine?
In February 1977 news spread, a long time before cell phones or the internet, that DMH was on his way from Australia to San Francisco, and as was common,  there was a layover planned in Hawaii. 
The local AH club rallied the available groups to greet him. 

 
  

 
  And as we had heard, he was a very nice gentleman that liked a little to drink, pretty girls and laughed a lot. 
Nearly 44 years ago....
Aloha
Perry in Pennsylvania
Sent from my iPhone 
  _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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 _______________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From 67healey at gmail.com  Mon Jul  5 17:31:54 2021
From: 67healey at gmail.com (Healey)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 16:31:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <1756959651.1808759.1625525573686@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
 <1756959651.1808759.1625525573686@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFbzz1-VjzNjzBgQYiT5uSo4LZ2i=0d7j0NB9duTuUjB6xOYpQ@mail.gmail.com>

Its definitely the bore not retracting by itself.
It will go back with the assistance of some slip joint pliers fwiw

On Monday, July 5, 2021, <healeyguy at aol.com> wrote:

> Neil
> Maybe its not the cylinder retracting in the bore. Does the cylinder body
> slide easily in the backing plate?
> P
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healey <67healey at gmail.com>
> To: Austin Healey <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Jul 5, 2021 6:37 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
>
>  I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on
> its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
>  Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
> retracting properly.
>   Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that
> goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the
> driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
> champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>  So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear
> brakes, not just one of them?
>
>   Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder from
> Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14 as opposed to
> the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>
>   Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
>
>   Thanks in advance,
>
> Neil
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/
> options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Mon Jul  5 17:39:35 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 16:39:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-2HGznK4K87EaqWXhbZMS0Ntf4zaL4ZTueWyo+dA2F1Q@mail.gmail.com>

I really miss him, and thank him whenever I drive my car

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Mon, Jul 5, 2021, 12:46 PM Jean Caron <
vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Today I remember one of the most faithful contributor to this list who
> left us all too soon in 2012.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From tahoehealey at hotmail.com  Mon Jul  5 17:44:12 2021
From: tahoehealey at hotmail.com (Richard Kahn)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 23:44:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz8-2HGznK4K87EaqWXhbZMS0Ntf4zaL4ZTueWyo+dA2F1Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CABXhz8-2HGznK4K87EaqWXhbZMS0Ntf4zaL4ZTueWyo+dA2F1Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CO1PR10MB4770B92A0215DDE71574F7D0A41C9@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>

Ditto, that.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 5, 2021, at 4:39 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

?
I really miss him, and thank him whenever I drive my car

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Mon, Jul 5, 2021, 12:46 PM Jean Caron <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com<mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>> wrote:
Today I remember one of the most faithful contributor to this list who left us all too soon in 2012.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul  5 20:01:52 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 10:01:52 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -
In-Reply-To: <CO1PR10MB4770B92A0215DDE71574F7D0A41C9@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABXhz8-2HGznK4K87EaqWXhbZMS0Ntf4zaL4ZTueWyo+dA2F1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CO1PR10MB4770B92A0215DDE71574F7D0A41C9@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLKY1Xfw4piu_zkfwxCXF8XhHg7+M6V5++wiGRtDL7pOw@mail.gmail.com>

Rich was a class act, 100%.  And it shows in his son Geoff, who is also a
class act!

Hope you are well up there Rich... my 100 is almost done now!

Alan

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 7:44 AM Richard Kahn <tahoehealey at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Ditto, that.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 5, 2021, at 4:39 PM, i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> I really miss him, and thank him whenever I drive my car
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
> On Mon, Jul 5, 2021, 12:46 PM Jean Caron <
> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Today I remember one of the most faithful contributor to this list who
>> left us all too soon in 2012.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jean
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
>> Windows 10
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul  5 20:14:06 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 19:14:06 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <92675e7b-9394-87eb-b76a-8df27753fdac@comcast.net>

Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before install? 
I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked 
they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull 
the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the retract 
springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be stuck. 
FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and 
Tom Monaco told me they're fine.


On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
> ?I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder?(drivers side) 
> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except 
> that on its inaugural?run, it became quickly apparent that things were 
> not right.
> ?Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder?was not 
> retracting properly.
> ? Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber 
> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes 
> that goes into a T to?feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY 
> with the driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder 
> retracts like a champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
> ?So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was 
> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both 
> rear brakes, not just one of them?
>
> ? Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel 
> cylinder?from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder?@ 
> $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder?@ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>
> ? Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly 
> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
>
> ? Thanks in advance,
>
> Neil
>


From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Tue Jul  6 02:42:07 2021
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 09:42:07 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <a5c23a71-9310-8185-c5e3-04810e8df54f@summaventures.com>

Much missed. Thanks for reminding us all.

Peter

On 05/07/2021 20:46, Jean Caron wrote:
> Today I remember one of the most faithful contributor to this list who
> left us all too soon in 2012.
> 
> ?
> 
> Jean
> 
> ?
> 
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
> 
> ?
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From rfbegani at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 06:15:17 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 08:15:17 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Cylinders not TRW etc.
Message-ID: <021701d77260$95e46880$c1ad3980$@gmail.com>

Let me tell you a story. Once upon a time I was a member of the Motor
Equipment Manufacturers International Trade committee and met with many of
the salesmen of the time.  Also, I was selling auto parts for American cars
to Central America. I became friends with a fellow who sold brake cylinders
which were made in Italy.  He wanted to shift that manufacturing to Korea
because the cost from Italy had become uncompetitive. I took him to my
hometown brake service guy who knew more about brake parts than the makers.
Slowly, we bought 2 of every brake cylinder in the TRW, Echlin catalog and
shipped them to Korea to be duplicated.  He hired an engineer to measure and
record every centimeter of the wheel cylinders to make certain they were to
original specs.  Once he had a line to sell, he quit his job and began
selling to the off brand American companies and major suppliers of their
brand of auto parts.  Eventually, he moved manufacturing to China and was
supplying the name brands in the USA.  The quality was as good if not better
than made in the USA. Kind of wish I had negotiated and piece of that
business.

 

I doubt any brake cylinders are made in the USA.  Closest would be a
Maquiladoras in Mexico such as the Cardone who is supplying lots of brand
names.  Why can't American companies make these little parts for cars, etc.
Because it is mostly hand assembled and we will not work for less a few
dollars an hour.

 

For the most part, purchase from a well-known American supplier is quality
product to be sure of quality auto parts, such as NAPA and you can return it
if defective.

 

Also, I bought the off-brand brake cylinder from Moss in my rebuild, and
have had not problems in 1,000 miles

 

 

Bob Begani

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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 06:56:57 2021
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 08:56:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -
In-Reply-To: <a5c23a71-9310-8185-c5e3-04810e8df54f@summaventures.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <a5c23a71-9310-8185-c5e3-04810e8df54f@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcg6tafdckP=8urw0Mbn_UxU7nGGtrVzDX9nQG7sGgsXg@mail.gmail.com>

Rich was extremely kind and generous with his advice.  I'm happy to see his
son Geoff is following in his footsteps.  Here's a nice interview we did
with him for the Austin-Healey Club of New England "AH-BS" calls

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGLbLVqfme8

Rick Neville

<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
Virus-free.
www.avast.com
<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link>
<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 4:43 AM Peter Dzwig <pdzwig at summaventures.com> wrote:

> Much missed. Thanks for reminding us all.
>
> Peter
>
> On 05/07/2021 20:46, Jean Caron wrote:
> > Today I remember one of the most faithful contributor to this list who
> > left us all too soon in 2012.
> >
> >
> >
> > Jean
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> > Windows 10
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> >
>
> --
>
> Dr. Peter Dzwig
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Tue Jul  6 07:39:06 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 13:39:06 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkLKY1Xfw4piu_zkfwxCXF8XhHg7+M6V5++wiGRtDL7pOw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABXhz8-2HGznK4K87EaqWXhbZMS0Ntf4zaL4ZTueWyo+dA2F1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CO1PR10MB4770B92A0215DDE71574F7D0A41C9@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFBXTkLKY1Xfw4piu_zkfwxCXF8XhHg7+M6V5++wiGRtDL7pOw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1556651814.609819.1625578746779@mail.yahoo.com>

I met Rich at a Conclave a long time ago & always looked forward to seeing him at those events & sharing our Healey stories & other common interests.I purchased a 100 project car from Rich shortly before he died. I am still slowly working on it & love the idea that when it is done it will be homage to Rich. In the mean time, I get a lot of enjoyment from having a project I like to work on!Gary Hodson



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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Jul  6 07:40:37 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 09:40:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Book
In-Reply-To: <003801d76ec3$a93af390$fbb0dab0$@xtra.co.nz>
References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <EA826028-6F36-465C-A252-0AF4F98671C7@gmail.com>
 <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz>
 <ef0b8baf-8aeb-0dc4-1060-08009f1c01bb@comcast.net>
 <233446331.1622654.1625097937381@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003801d76ec3$a93af390$fbb0dab0$@xtra.co.nz>
Message-ID: <37360b78-49fc-22dc-4953-39ffe875fdd0@earthlink.net>

Prepare to Win, page 152 attached.? Part of the chapter on Electrics, 
Instruments, Fuel Cells.? Doesn't like Lucas in general and the master 
cutoff switches and distributors in particular.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/1/21 5:54 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>
> Hello, Sarah,
>
> I will try to find the page over the weekend.
>
> But Carroll said basically something like this: *??Lucas electrics are 
> NFG and I do not intended to discuss them any further?.*
>
> I?ve had a quick look this morning but cannot find it.? I?ll have a 
> better look over the weekend.? If I find it I?ll scan the page and 
> post it.
>
> To be honest, I?ve been using Lucas electrics for 50 years and I?ve 
> had no problems that weren?t created by *ME*, taking them for 
> granted.? And even then, they were minor.
>
> Best
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore, NZ
>
> *From:*S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
> *Sent:* Friday, 2 July 2021 2:29 a.m.
> *To:* David Lodge <emmgeeteesee at gmail.com>; healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
>
> Mark ? Please tell us what the sentence said!!
>
> Sarah Carr
>
> BN1 in PA
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *David Lodge via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 30, 2021 8:08 PM
> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>; Bob 
> Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
> *Cc: *David Lodge <mailto:emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Book
>
>
> Smokey Yunick's book is pretty good, too (mostly for V8s, but plenty 
> of good tips):
>
> https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/ 
> <https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/>
>
> On 1/12/2021 8:11 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>
> A man after my own heart, Chris. ?
>
> ?And there are also the three wonderful books by the late, great, 
> *Carroll Smith*? . . .? Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and Engineer to Win.
>
> *There is a whole chapter on Lucas electrics in one other them. ?It 
> comprises just one sentence**.*?
>
> Mark
>
> Ardmore, NZ
>
> *From:*Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com> 
> <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m.
> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
>
> In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book.
>
> ?Tuning the A Series Engine?
>
> I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles apply 
> to B series and C Series BMC engines.
>
> I keep a copy beside my bed.
>
> Mostly because I?m an insomniac.
>
> ?
>
> But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind at 
> 3.00am, I can check the book....
>
> Chris
>
>     On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>     <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
>
>     ?
>
>     Hi,
>
>     Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines?
>     Preferably, AH 3000 engines!
>
>     The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options
>     regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be
>     done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some
>     rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go
>     off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have
>     platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean!
>
>     Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???..
>
>     I have looked on Google and, so far, failed.
>
>     Yes, I?ve got the manuals.
>
>     Thanks,
>
>     Simon
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys%20>http://autox.team.net/archive 
> <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys 
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk 
> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
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> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul  6 08:47:51 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 07:47:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Book
In-Reply-To: <37360b78-49fc-22dc-4953-39ffe875fdd0@earthlink.net>
References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <EA826028-6F36-465C-A252-0AF4F98671C7@gmail.com>
 <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz>
 <ef0b8baf-8aeb-0dc4-1060-08009f1c01bb@comcast.net>
 <233446331.1622654.1625097937381@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003801d76ec3$a93af390$fbb0dab0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <37360b78-49fc-22dc-4953-39ffe875fdd0@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <097a5b16-2694-cf40-9f69-9e278bce89bf@comcast.net>

Interesting that he doesn't believe in using fuses. Or electronic 
ignitions, which are in pretty much every car built today. Modern 
ECU/COP systems--with no moving parts--are vastly superior to points and 
distributors, but less fixable to us shadetree mechanics.

To say he's 'Old School' would be an understatement.


On 7/6/2021 6:40 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Prepare to Win, page 152 attached.? Part of the chapter on Electrics, 
> Instruments, Fuel Cells.? Doesn't like Lucas in general and the master 
> cutoff switches and distributors in particular.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 7/1/21 5:54 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>>
>> Hello, Sarah,
>>
>> I will try to find the page over the weekend.
>>
>> But Carroll said basically something like this: *??Lucas electrics 
>> are NFG and I do not intended to discuss them any further?.*
>>
>> I?ve had a quick look this morning but cannot find it.? I?ll have a 
>> better look over the weekend.? If I find it I?ll scan the page and 
>> post it.
>>
>> To be honest, I?ve been using Lucas electrics for 50 years and I?ve 
>> had no problems that weren?t created by *ME*, taking them for 
>> granted.? And even then, they were minor.
>>
>> Best
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> Ardmore, NZ
>>
>> *From:*S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
>> *Sent:* Friday, 2 July 2021 2:29 a.m.
>> *To:* David Lodge <emmgeeteesee at gmail.com>; healeys 
>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
>>
>> Mark ? Please tell us what the sentence said!!
>>
>> Sarah Carr
>>
>> BN1 in PA
>>
>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
>> Windows 10
>>
>> *From: *David Lodge via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 30, 2021 8:08 PM
>> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>; Bob 
>> Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>> *Cc: *David Lodge <mailto:emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk>
>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Book
>>
>>
>> Smokey Yunick's book is pretty good, too (mostly for V8s, but plenty 
>> of good tips):
>>
>> https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/ 
>> <https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/>
>>
>> On 1/12/2021 8:11 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>>
>> A man after my own heart, Chris. ?
>>
>> ?And there are also the three wonderful books by the late, great, 
>> *Carroll Smith*? . . .? Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and Engineer to 
>> Win.
>>
>> *There is a whole chapter on Lucas electrics in one other them. ?It 
>> comprises just one sentence**.*?
>>
>> Mark
>>
>> Ardmore, NZ
>>
>> *From:*Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com> 
>> <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com>
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m.
>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
>> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
>>
>> In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book.
>>
>> ?Tuning the A Series Engine?
>>
>> I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles apply 
>> to B series and C Series BMC engines.
>>
>> I keep a copy beside my bed.
>>
>> Mostly because I?m an insomniac.
>>
>> ?
>>
>> But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind at 
>> 3.00am, I can check the book....
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> ??? On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>> ??? <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
>>
>> ??? ?
>>
>> ??? Hi,
>>
>> ??? Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines?
>> ??? Preferably, AH 3000 engines!
>>
>> ??? The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options
>> ??? regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be
>> ??? done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some
>> ??? rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go
>> ??? off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have
>> ??? platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean!
>>
>> ??? Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???..
>>
>> ??? I have looked on Google and, so far, failed.
>>
>> ??? Yes, I?ve got the manuals.
>>
>> ??? Thanks,
>>
>> ??? Simon
>>


From 67healey at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 09:34:35 2021
From: 67healey at gmail.com (Healey)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 08:34:35 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <92675e7b-9394-87eb-b76a-8df27753fdac@comcast.net>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
 <92675e7b-9394-87eb-b76a-8df27753fdac@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFbzz18axOdiuvyVLPZcN_y5KddLdvaPomhmVsv8JL+LLg4QWg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Bob,

 No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never heard
of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston obviously moves
out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the problem.
 So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side works
fine), correct?

Thanks in advance

On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before install? I
> just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked they
> seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull the
> recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the retract
> springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be stuck.
> FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and
> Tom Monaco told me they're fine.
>
>
> On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
>
>>  I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
>> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on
>> its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
>>  Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
>> retracting properly.
>>   Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
>> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that
>> goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the
>> driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
>> champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>>  So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
>> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear
>> brakes, not just one of them?
>>
>>   Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
>> cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14
>> as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>>
>>   Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
>> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
>>
>>   Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Neil
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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> options/healeys/67healey at gmail.com
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Jul  6 09:35:51 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 11:35:51 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Book
In-Reply-To: <097a5b16-2694-cf40-9f69-9e278bce89bf@comcast.net>
References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <EA826028-6F36-465C-A252-0AF4F98671C7@gmail.com>
 <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz>
 <ef0b8baf-8aeb-0dc4-1060-08009f1c01bb@comcast.net>
 <233446331.1622654.1625097937381@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003801d76ec3$a93af390$fbb0dab0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <37360b78-49fc-22dc-4953-39ffe875fdd0@earthlink.net>
 <097a5b16-2694-cf40-9f69-9e278bce89bf@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8677044f-8734-dedd-c3e1-6f7a519ee2de@earthlink.net>

Bob,

Probably not too old school when the book was published in 1975.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/6/21 10:47 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> Interesting that he doesn't believe in using fuses. Or electronic 
> ignitions, which are in pretty much every car built today. Modern 
> ECU/COP systems--with no moving parts--are vastly superior to points 
> and distributors, but less fixable to us shadetree mechanics.
>
> To say he's 'Old School' would be an understatement.
>
>
> On 7/6/2021 6:40 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>> Prepare to Win, page 152 attached.? Part of the chapter on Electrics, 
>> Instruments, Fuel Cells.? Doesn't like Lucas in general and the 
>> master cutoff switches and distributors in particular.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>
>> On 7/1/21 5:54 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>>>
>>> Hello, Sarah,
>>>
>>> I will try to find the page over the weekend.
>>>
>>> But Carroll said basically something like this: *??Lucas electrics 
>>> are NFG and I do not intended to discuss them any further?.*
>>>
>>> I?ve had a quick look this morning but cannot find it.? I?ll have a 
>>> better look over the weekend.? If I find it I?ll scan the page and 
>>> post it.
>>>
>>> To be honest, I?ve been using Lucas electrics for 50 years and I?ve 
>>> had no problems that weren?t created by *ME*, taking them for 
>>> granted.? And even then, they were minor.
>>>
>>> Best
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>> Ardmore, NZ
>>>
>>> *From:*S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
>>> *Sent:* Friday, 2 July 2021 2:29 a.m.
>>> *To:* David Lodge <emmgeeteesee at gmail.com>; healeys 
>>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
>>>
>>> Mark ? Please tell us what the sentence said!!
>>>
>>> Sarah Carr
>>>
>>> BN1 in PA
>>>
>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
>>> Windows 10
>>>
>>> *From: *David Lodge via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 30, 2021 8:08 PM
>>> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>; Bob 
>>> Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>>> *Cc: *David Lodge <mailto:emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk>
>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Book
>>>
>>>
>>> Smokey Yunick's book is pretty good, too (mostly for V8s, but plenty 
>>> of good tips):
>>>
>>> https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/ 
>>> <https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/>
>>>
>>> On 1/12/2021 8:11 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>>>
>>> A man after my own heart, Chris. ?
>>>
>>> ?And there are also the three wonderful books by the late, great, 
>>> *Carroll Smith*? . . .? Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and Engineer to 
>>> Win.
>>>
>>> *There is a whole chapter on Lucas electrics in one other them. ?It 
>>> comprises just one sentence**.*?
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>> Ardmore, NZ
>>>
>>> *From:*Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com> 
>>> <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com>
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m.
>>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
>>> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>>> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
>>>
>>> In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book.
>>>
>>> ?Tuning the A Series Engine?
>>>
>>> I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles apply 
>>> to B series and C Series BMC engines.
>>>
>>> I keep a copy beside my bed.
>>>
>>> Mostly because I?m an insomniac.
>>>
>>> ?
>>>
>>> But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind 
>>> at 3.00am, I can check the book....
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> ??? On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>>> ??? <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> ??? ?
>>>
>>> ??? Hi,
>>>
>>> ??? Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines?
>>> ??? Preferably, AH 3000 engines!
>>>
>>> ??? The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options
>>> ??? regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be
>>> ??? done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some
>>> ??? rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go
>>> ??? off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have
>>> ??? platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean!
>>>
>>> ??? Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???..
>>>
>>> ??? I have looked on Google and, so far, failed.
>>>
>>> ??? Yes, I?ve got the manuals.
>>>
>>> ??? Thanks,
>>>
>>> ??? Simon
>>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Tue Jul  6 09:45:11 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 11:45:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <CAFbzz18axOdiuvyVLPZcN_y5KddLdvaPomhmVsv8JL+LLg4QWg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
 <92675e7b-9394-87eb-b76a-8df27753fdac@comcast.net>
 <CAFbzz18axOdiuvyVLPZcN_y5KddLdvaPomhmVsv8JL+LLg4QWg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <21d67d9c-4f75-9d18-ac79-a267ba8c329e@earthlink.net>

Neil,

I'd start with the wheel cylinder as that's what was replaced. What are 
you using for brake fluid?? Some master cylinders that I've bought from 
Moss aren't compatible with DOT 5 - voids the warranty.? Don't know if 
that applies to their wheel cylinders or not.

If you change the rubber hose, you ought to make sure the metal line is 
clear too.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/6/21 11:34 AM, Healey wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
> ?No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never 
> heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston 
> obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the 
> problem.
> ?So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side 
> works fine), correct?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before
>     install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but
>     when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not
>     be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's
>     anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong so the
>     cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed
>     several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and Tom Monaco
>     told me they're fine.
>
>
>     On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
>
>         ?I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder?(drivers
>         side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install &
>         adjustment, except that on its inaugural?run, it became
>         quickly apparent that things were not right.
>         ?Took the drum back off again, only to find that the
>         cylinder?was not retracting properly.
>         ? Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the
>         rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these
>         rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to?feed both rear brakes
>         - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the
>         passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ.
>         Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>         ?So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber
>         pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't
>         this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?
>
>         ? Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
>         cylinder?from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket
>         cylinder?@ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder?@ $70), or
>         do I replace both? or?
>
>         ? Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both
>         are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal
>         mounting plate underneath.
>
>         ? Thanks in advance,
>
>         Neil
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/67healey at gmail.com
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/67healey at gmail.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 09:58:41 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 11:58:41 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJPp3A=4VcR12K5Bd3vYq_t+uOaC=DpSZoNF1J+Vox4Vg@mail.gmail.com>

Perhaps you could better describe "things were not right".
If the brake was not overly hot there may be no problem.
When correctly adjusted the wheel cylinder only operates in the first
couple of mm of its stroke, the rest of the bore serves only as a guide for
the piston.

M

On Mon., Jul. 5, 2021, 6:38 p.m. Healey, <67healey at gmail.com> wrote:

>  I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on
> its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
>  Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
> retracting properly.
>   Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that
> goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the
> driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
> champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>  So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear
> brakes, not just one of them?
>
>   Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder from
> Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14 as opposed to
> the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>
>   Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
>
>   Thanks in advance,
>
> Neil
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul  6 11:02:25 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 10:02:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <CAFbzz18axOdiuvyVLPZcN_y5KddLdvaPomhmVsv8JL+LLg4QWg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
 <92675e7b-9394-87eb-b76a-8df27753fdac@comcast.net>
 <CAFbzz18axOdiuvyVLPZcN_y5KddLdvaPomhmVsv8JL+LLg4QWg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e753fa8e-b3e8-69b3-5301-1473d73ac294@comcast.net>

I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard line 
(not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some 
contaminant got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but 
might prevent withdrawal of the piston.

BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least 20K 
miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my Healeys due 
to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot completely remove 
brake or differential fluid from shoes once they've been soaked).

bs


On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
> ?No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never 
> heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston 
> obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the 
> problem.
> ?So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side 
> works fine), correct?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before
>     install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but
>     when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not
>     be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's
>     anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong so the
>     cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed
>     several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and Tom Monaco
>     told me they're fine.
>
>
>     On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
>
>         ?I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder?(drivers
>         side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install &
>         adjustment, except that on its inaugural?run, it became
>         quickly apparent that things were not right.
>         ?Took the drum back off again, only to find that the
>         cylinder?was not retracting properly.
>         ? Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the
>         rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these
>         rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to?feed both rear brakes
>         - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the
>         passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ.
>         Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>         ?So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber
>         pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't
>         this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?
>
>         ? Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
>         cylinder?from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket
>         cylinder?@ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder?@ $70), or
>         do I replace both? or?
>
>         ? Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both
>         are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal
>         mounting plate underneath.
>
>         ? Thanks in advance,
>
>         Neil
>
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue Jul  6 11:04:44 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 10:04:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Book
In-Reply-To: <8677044f-8734-dedd-c3e1-6f7a519ee2de@earthlink.net>
References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <EA826028-6F36-465C-A252-0AF4F98671C7@gmail.com>
 <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz>
 <ef0b8baf-8aeb-0dc4-1060-08009f1c01bb@comcast.net>
 <233446331.1622654.1625097937381@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003801d76ec3$a93af390$fbb0dab0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <37360b78-49fc-22dc-4953-39ffe875fdd0@earthlink.net>
 <097a5b16-2694-cf40-9f69-9e278bce89bf@comcast.net>
 <8677044f-8734-dedd-c3e1-6f7a519ee2de@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <67b784da-201c-b582-b20b-4a0879d4cdd3@comcast.net>

True dat. Electronic ignitions were still new age at that time; I had a 
'79 Subaru that had electronic points, which looked like a Pertronix 
module, and it went 175K miles with no ignition issues.

On 7/6/2021 8:35 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Probably not too old school when the book was published in 1975.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 7/6/21 10:47 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> Interesting that he doesn't believe in using fuses. Or electronic 
>> ignitions, which are in pretty much every car built today. Modern 
>> ECU/COP systems--with no moving parts--are vastly superior to points 
>> and distributors, but less fixable to us shadetree mechanics.
>>
>> To say he's 'Old School' would be an understatement.
>>
>>
>> On 7/6/2021 6:40 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>>> Prepare to Win, page 152 attached.? Part of the chapter on 
>>> Electrics, Instruments, Fuel Cells.? Doesn't like Lucas in general 
>>> and the master cutoff switches and distributors in particular.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Bob Haskell
>>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>>
>>> On 7/1/21 5:54 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hello, Sarah,
>>>>
>>>> I will try to find the page over the weekend.
>>>>
>>>> But Carroll said basically something like this: *??Lucas electrics 
>>>> are NFG and I do not intended to discuss them any further?.*
>>>>
>>>> I?ve had a quick look this morning but cannot find it.? I?ll have a 
>>>> better look over the weekend.? If I find it I?ll scan the page and 
>>>> post it.
>>>>
>>>> To be honest, I?ve been using Lucas electrics for 50 years and I?ve 
>>>> had no problems that weren?t created by *ME*, taking them for 
>>>> granted.? And even then, they were minor.
>>>>
>>>> Best
>>>>
>>>> Mark
>>>>
>>>> Ardmore, NZ
>>>>
>>>> *From:*S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
>>>> *Sent:* Friday, 2 July 2021 2:29 a.m.
>>>> *To:* David Lodge <emmgeeteesee at gmail.com>; healeys 
>>>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
>>>>
>>>> Mark ? Please tell us what the sentence said!!
>>>>
>>>> Sarah Carr
>>>>
>>>> BN1 in PA
>>>>
>>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
>>>> Windows 10
>>>>
>>>> *From: *David Lodge via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 30, 2021 8:08 PM
>>>> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>; Bob 
>>>> Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>> *Cc: *David Lodge <mailto:emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk>
>>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Book
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Smokey Yunick's book is pretty good, too (mostly for V8s, but 
>>>> plenty of good tips):
>>>>
>>>> https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/ 
>>>> <https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/>
>>>>
>>>> On 1/12/2021 8:11 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>>>>
>>>> A man after my own heart, Chris. ?
>>>>
>>>> ?And there are also the three wonderful books by the late, great, 
>>>> *Carroll Smith*? . . .? Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and Engineer 
>>>> to Win.
>>>>
>>>> *There is a whole chapter on Lucas electrics in one other them. ?It 
>>>> comprises just one sentence**.*?
>>>>
>>>> Mark
>>>>
>>>> Ardmore, NZ
>>>>
>>>> *From:*Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com> 
>>>> <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com>
>>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m.
>>>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
>>>> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>>>> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
>>>>
>>>> In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book.
>>>>
>>>> ?Tuning the A Series Engine?
>>>>
>>>> I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles 
>>>> apply to B series and C Series BMC engines.
>>>>
>>>> I keep a copy beside my bed.
>>>>
>>>> Mostly because I?m an insomniac.
>>>>
>>>> ?
>>>>
>>>> But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind 
>>>> at 3.00am, I can check the book....
>>>>
>>>> Chris
>>>>
>>>> ??? On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>>>> ??? <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> ??? ?
>>>>
>>>> ??? Hi,
>>>>
>>>> ??? Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines?
>>>> ??? Preferably, AH 3000 engines!
>>>>
>>>> ??? The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options
>>>> ??? regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be
>>>> ??? done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some
>>>> ??? rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go
>>>> ??? off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have
>>>> ??? platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean!
>>>>
>>>> ??? Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???..
>>>>
>>>> ??? I have looked on Google and, so far, failed.
>>>>
>>>> ??? Yes, I?ve got the manuals.
>>>>
>>>> ??? Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> ??? Simon
>>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>
>


From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 12:57:30 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 14:57:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Book
In-Reply-To: <67b784da-201c-b582-b20b-4a0879d4cdd3@comcast.net>
References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <EA826028-6F36-465C-A252-0AF4F98671C7@gmail.com>
 <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz>
 <ef0b8baf-8aeb-0dc4-1060-08009f1c01bb@comcast.net>
 <233446331.1622654.1625097937381@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003801d76ec3$a93af390$fbb0dab0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <37360b78-49fc-22dc-4953-39ffe875fdd0@earthlink.net>
 <097a5b16-2694-cf40-9f69-9e278bce89bf@comcast.net>
 <8677044f-8734-dedd-c3e1-6f7a519ee2de@earthlink.net>
 <67b784da-201c-b582-b20b-4a0879d4cdd3@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLbQp5U=8qBzQyP+7fWTi3diuy4W5x9cJ4LyFoiYUCoZg@mail.gmail.com>

I had a 1974 Jaguar XJ6 with Lucas Opus ignition.  It failed within the
first 100 miles and gave constant trouble with numerous flatbed rides to
the dealer until I traded it in 1975 with less than 5000 miles on it.

M

On Tue., Jul. 6, 2021, 1:04 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> True dat. Electronic ignitions were still new age at that time; I had a
> '79 Subaru that had electronic points, which looked like a Pertronix
> module, and it went 175K miles with no ignition issues.
>
> On 7/6/2021 8:35 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> > Bob,
> >
> > Probably not too old school when the book was published in 1975.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Bob Haskell
> > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> >
> > On 7/6/21 10:47 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> >> Interesting that he doesn't believe in using fuses. Or electronic
> >> ignitions, which are in pretty much every car built today. Modern
> >> ECU/COP systems--with no moving parts--are vastly superior to points
> >> and distributors, but less fixable to us shadetree mechanics.
> >>
> >> To say he's 'Old School' would be an understatement.
> >>
> >>
> >> On 7/6/2021 6:40 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> >>> Prepare to Win, page 152 attached.  Part of the chapter on
> >>> Electrics, Instruments, Fuel Cells.  Doesn't like Lucas in general
> >>> and the master cutoff switches and distributors in particular.
> >>>
> >>> Cheers,
> >>>
> >>> Bob Haskell
> >>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> >>>
> >>> On 7/1/21 5:54 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Hello, Sarah,
> >>>>
> >>>> I will try to find the page over the weekend.
> >>>>
> >>>> But Carroll said basically something like this: * ?Lucas electrics
> >>>> are NFG and I do not intended to discuss them any further?.*
> >>>>
> >>>> I?ve had a quick look this morning but cannot find it.  I?ll have a
> >>>> better look over the weekend.  If I find it I?ll scan the page and
> >>>> post it.
> >>>>
> >>>> To be honest, I?ve been using Lucas electrics for 50 years and I?ve
> >>>> had no problems that weren?t created by *ME*, taking them for
> >>>> granted.  And even then, they were minor.
> >>>>
> >>>> Best
> >>>>
> >>>> Mark
> >>>>
> >>>> Ardmore, NZ
> >>>>
> >>>> *From:*S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
> >>>> *Sent:* Friday, 2 July 2021 2:29 a.m.
> >>>> *To:* David Lodge <emmgeeteesee at gmail.com>; healeys
> >>>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> >>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
> >>>>
> >>>> Mark ? Please tell us what the sentence said!!
> >>>>
> >>>> Sarah Carr
> >>>>
> >>>> BN1 in PA
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> >>>> Windows 10
> >>>>
> >>>> *From: *David Lodge via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> >>>> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 30, 2021 8:08 PM
> >>>> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>; Bob
> >>>> Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
> >>>> *Cc: *David Lodge <mailto:emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk>
> >>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Book
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Smokey Yunick's book is pretty good, too (mostly for V8s, but
> >>>> plenty of good tips):
> >>>>
> >>>> https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/
> >>>> <https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/>
> >>>>
> >>>> On 1/12/2021 8:11 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> A man after my own heart, Chris. ?
> >>>>
> >>>>  And there are also the three wonderful books by the late, great,
> >>>> *Carroll Smith*  . . .  Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and Engineer
> >>>> to Win.
> >>>>
> >>>> *There is a whole chapter on Lucas electrics in one other them.  It
> >>>> comprises just one sentence**.*?
> >>>>
> >>>> Mark
> >>>>
> >>>> Ardmore, NZ
> >>>>
> >>>> *From:*Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
> >>>> <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com>
> >>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m.
> >>>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> >>>> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> >>>> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net
> >
> >>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
> >>>>
> >>>> In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book.
> >>>>
> >>>> ?Tuning the A Series Engine?
> >>>>
> >>>> I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles
> >>>> apply to B series and C Series BMC engines.
> >>>>
> >>>> I keep a copy beside my bed.
> >>>>
> >>>> Mostly because I?m an insomniac.
> >>>>
> >>>> ?
> >>>>
> >>>> But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind
> >>>> at 3.00am, I can check the book....
> >>>>
> >>>> Chris
> >>>>
> >>>>     On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> >>>>     <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>     ?
> >>>>
> >>>>     Hi,
> >>>>
> >>>>     Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines?
> >>>>     Preferably, AH 3000 engines!
> >>>>
> >>>>     The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options
> >>>>     regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be
> >>>>     done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some
> >>>>     rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go
> >>>>     off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have
> >>>>     platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean!
> >>>>
> >>>>     Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???..
> >>>>
> >>>>     I have looked on Google and, so far, failed.
> >>>>
> >>>>     Yes, I?ve got the manuals.
> >>>>
> >>>>     Thanks,
> >>>>
> >>>>     Simon
> >>>>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >>
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
> >>
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Tue Jul  6 13:15:28 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 19:15:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Book
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLbQp5U=8qBzQyP+7fWTi3diuy4W5x9cJ4LyFoiYUCoZg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <EA826028-6F36-465C-A252-0AF4F98671C7@gmail.com>
 <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz>
 <ef0b8baf-8aeb-0dc4-1060-08009f1c01bb@comcast.net>
 <233446331.1622654.1625097937381@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003801d76ec3$a93af390$fbb0dab0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <37360b78-49fc-22dc-4953-39ffe875fdd0@earthlink.net>
 <097a5b16-2694-cf40-9f69-9e278bce89bf@comcast.net>
 <8677044f-8734-dedd-c3e1-6f7a519ee2de@earthlink.net>
 <67b784da-201c-b582-b20b-4a0879d4cdd3@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLbQp5U=8qBzQyP+7fWTi3diuy4W5x9cJ4LyFoiYUCoZg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <639441809.1643493.1625598928654@mail.yahoo.com>

MichaelThe failure of the 1974 ignition was because of it being the "smokeless" clean air version. As the definition of Opus states:? Opus means "a piece of work."Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, Jul 6, 2021 2:57 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Book

I had a 1974 Jaguar XJ6 with Lucas Opus ignition.? It failed within the first 100 miles and gave constant trouble with numerous flatbed rides to the dealer until I traded it in 1975 with less than 5000 miles on it.
M
On Tue., Jul. 6, 2021, 1:04 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

True dat. Electronic ignitions were still new age at that time; I had a 
'79 Subaru that had electronic points, which looked like a Pertronix 
module, and it went 175K miles with no ignition issues.

On 7/6/2021 8:35 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> Bob,
>
> Probably not too old school when the book was published in 1975.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 7/6/21 10:47 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>> Interesting that he doesn't believe in using fuses. Or electronic 
>> ignitions, which are in pretty much every car built today. Modern 
>> ECU/COP systems--with no moving parts--are vastly superior to points 
>> and distributors, but less fixable to us shadetree mechanics.
>>
>> To say he's 'Old School' would be an understatement.
>>
>>
>> On 7/6/2021 6:40 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>>> Prepare to Win, page 152 attached.? Part of the chapter on 
>>> Electrics, Instruments, Fuel Cells.? Doesn't like Lucas in general 
>>> and the master cutoff switches and distributors in particular.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Bob Haskell
>>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>>>
>>> On 7/1/21 5:54 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hello, Sarah,
>>>>
>>>> I will try to find the page over the weekend.
>>>>
>>>> But Carroll said basically something like this: *??Lucas electrics 
>>>> are NFG and I do not intended to discuss them any further?.*
>>>>
>>>> I?ve had a quick look this morning but cannot find it.? I?ll have a 
>>>> better look over the weekend.? If I find it I?ll scan the page and 
>>>> post it.
>>>>
>>>> To be honest, I?ve been using Lucas electrics for 50 years and I?ve 
>>>> had no problems that weren?t created by *ME*, taking them for 
>>>> granted.? And even then, they were minor.
>>>>
>>>> Best
>>>>
>>>> Mark
>>>>
>>>> Ardmore, NZ
>>>>
>>>> *From:*S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
>>>> *Sent:* Friday, 2 July 2021 2:29 a.m.
>>>> *To:* David Lodge <emmgeeteesee at gmail.com>; healeys 
>>>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
>>>>
>>>> Mark ? Please tell us what the sentence said!!
>>>>
>>>> Sarah Carr
>>>>
>>>> BN1 in PA
>>>>
>>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
>>>> Windows 10
>>>>
>>>> *From: *David Lodge via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 30, 2021 8:08 PM
>>>> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>; Bob 
>>>> Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
>>>> *Cc: *David Lodge <mailto:emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk>
>>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Book
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Smokey Yunick's book is pretty good, too (mostly for V8s, but 
>>>> plenty of good tips):
>>>>
>>>> https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/ 
>>>> <https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/>
>>>>
>>>> On 1/12/2021 8:11 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>>>>
>>>> A man after my own heart, Chris. ?
>>>>
>>>> ?And there are also the three wonderful books by the late, great, 
>>>> *Carroll Smith*? . . .? Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and Engineer 
>>>> to Win.
>>>>
>>>> *There is a whole chapter on Lucas electrics in one other them.? It 
>>>> comprises just one sentence**.*?
>>>>
>>>> Mark
>>>>
>>>> Ardmore, NZ
>>>>
>>>> *From:*Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com> 
>>>> <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com>
>>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m.
>>>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com 
>>>> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>>>> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
>>>>
>>>> In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book.
>>>>
>>>> ?Tuning the A Series Engine?
>>>>
>>>> I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles 
>>>> apply to B series and C Series BMC engines.
>>>>
>>>> I keep a copy beside my bed.
>>>>
>>>> Mostly because I?m an insomniac.
>>>>
>>>> ?
>>>>
>>>> But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind 
>>>> at 3.00am, I can check the book....
>>>>
>>>> Chris
>>>>
>>>> ??? On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>>>> ??? <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> ??? ?
>>>>
>>>> ??? Hi,
>>>>
>>>> ??? Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines?
>>>> ??? Preferably, AH 3000 engines!
>>>>
>>>> ??? The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options
>>>> ??? regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be
>>>> ??? done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some
>>>> ??? rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go
>>>> ??? off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have
>>>> ??? platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean!
>>>>
>>>> ??? Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???..
>>>>
>>>> ??? I have looked on Google and, so far, failed.
>>>>
>>>> ??? Yes, I?ve got the manuals.
>>>>
>>>> ??? Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> ??? Simon
>>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>>
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Tue Jul  6 13:58:12 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 13:58:12 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Book
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLbQp5U=8qBzQyP+7fWTi3diuy4W5x9cJ4LyFoiYUCoZg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <EA826028-6F36-465C-A252-0AF4F98671C7@gmail.com>
 <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz>
 <ef0b8baf-8aeb-0dc4-1060-08009f1c01bb@comcast.net>
 <233446331.1622654.1625097937381@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003801d76ec3$a93af390$fbb0dab0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <37360b78-49fc-22dc-4953-39ffe875fdd0@earthlink.net>
 <097a5b16-2694-cf40-9f69-9e278bce89bf@comcast.net>
 <8677044f-8734-dedd-c3e1-6f7a519ee2de@earthlink.net>
 <67b784da-201c-b582-b20b-4a0879d4cdd3@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLbQp5U=8qBzQyP+7fWTi3diuy4W5x9cJ4LyFoiYUCoZg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <dc56c542-8ca4-ce00-0be0-44eb460aefc2@porterscustom.com>

probably that pesky Delco module..

On 7/6/2021 12:57 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> I had a 1974 Jaguar XJ6 with Lucas Opus ignition. It failed within the 
> first 100 miles and gave constant trouble with numerous flatbed rides 
> to the dealer until I traded it in 1975 with less than 5000 miles on it.
>
> M
>
> On Tue., Jul. 6, 2021, 1:04 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net 
> <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
>
>     True dat. Electronic ignitions were still new age at that time; I
>     had a
>     '79 Subaru that had electronic points, which looked like a Pertronix
>     module, and it went 175K miles with no ignition issues.
>
>     On 7/6/2021 8:35 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>     > Bob,
>     >
>     > Probably not too old school when the book was published in 1975.
>     >
>     > Cheers,
>     >
>     > Bob Haskell
>     > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>     >
>     > On 7/6/21 10:47 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>     >> Interesting that he doesn't believe in using fuses. Or electronic
>     >> ignitions, which are in pretty much every car built today. Modern
>     >> ECU/COP systems--with no moving parts--are vastly superior to
>     points
>     >> and distributors, but less fixable to us shadetree mechanics.
>     >>
>     >> To say he's 'Old School' would be an understatement.
>     >>
>     >>
>     >> On 7/6/2021 6:40 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
>     >>> Prepare to Win, page 152 attached.? Part of the chapter on
>     >>> Electrics, Instruments, Fuel Cells.? Doesn't like Lucas in
>     general
>     >>> and the master cutoff switches and distributors in particular.
>     >>>
>     >>> Cheers,
>     >>>
>     >>> Bob Haskell
>     >>> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>     >>>
>     >>> On 7/1/21 5:54 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Hello, Sarah,
>     >>>>
>     >>>> I will try to find the page over the weekend.
>     >>>>
>     >>>> But Carroll said basically something like this: *??Lucas
>     electrics
>     >>>> are NFG and I do not intended to discuss them any further?.*
>     >>>>
>     >>>> I?ve had a quick look this morning but cannot find it.? I?ll
>     have a
>     >>>> better look over the weekend.? If I find it I?ll scan the
>     page and
>     >>>> post it.
>     >>>>
>     >>>> To be honest, I?ve been using Lucas electrics for 50 years
>     and I?ve
>     >>>> had no problems that weren?t created by *ME*, taking them for
>     >>>> granted.? And even then, they were minor.
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Best
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Mark
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Ardmore, NZ
>     >>>>
>     >>>> *From:*S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net <mailto:britfan1 at epix.net>>
>     >>>> *Sent:* Friday, 2 July 2021 2:29 a.m.
>     >>>> *To:* David Lodge <emmgeeteesee at gmail.com
>     <mailto:emmgeeteesee at gmail.com>>; healeys
>     >>>> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     >>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Mark ? Please tell us what the sentence said!!
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Sarah Carr
>     >>>>
>     >>>> BN1 in PA
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Sent from Mail
>     <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986
>     <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>> for
>     >>>> Windows 10
>     >>>>
>     >>>> *From: *David Lodge via Healeys
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     >>>> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 30, 2021 8:08 PM
>     >>>> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>; Bob
>     >>>> Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net
>     <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>>
>     >>>> *Cc: *David Lodge <mailto:emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk
>     <mailto:emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk>>
>     >>>> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Book
>     >>>>
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Smokey Yunick's book is pretty good, too (mostly for V8s, but
>     >>>> plenty of good tips):
>     >>>>
>     >>>> https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/
>     <https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/>
>     >>>> <https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/
>     <https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/>>
>     >>>>
>     >>>> On 1/12/2021 8:11 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
>     >>>>
>     >>>> A man after my own heart, Chris. ?
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ?And there are also the three wonderful books by the late,
>     great,
>     >>>> *Carroll Smith*? . . .? Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and
>     Engineer
>     >>>> to Win.
>     >>>>
>     >>>> *There is a whole chapter on Lucas electrics in one other
>     them.? It
>     >>>> comprises just one sentence**.*?
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Mark
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Ardmore, NZ
>     >>>>
>     >>>> *From:*Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com
>     <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com>>
>     >>>> <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com>>
>     >>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m.
>     >>>> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>     <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>     >>>> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>     <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>>
>     >>>> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>     >>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
>     >>>>
>     >>>> In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book.
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ?Tuning the A Series Engine?
>     >>>>
>     >>>> I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles
>     >>>> apply to B series and C Series BMC engines.
>     >>>>
>     >>>> I keep a copy beside my bed.
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Mostly because I?m an insomniac.
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ?
>     >>>>
>     >>>> But also because when I have those things racing around in my
>     mind
>     >>>> at 3.00am, I can check the book....
>     >>>>
>     >>>> Chris
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ??? On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm,
>     simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>     <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
>     >>>> ??? <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
>     <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>> wrote:
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ??? ?
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ??? Hi,
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ??? Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines?
>     >>>> ??? Preferably, AH 3000 engines!
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ??? The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options
>     >>>> ??? regarding performance parts and modifications that needed
>     to be
>     >>>> ??? done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end
>     of some
>     >>>> ??? rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz
>     needs to go
>     >>>> ??? off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit
>     and have
>     >>>> ??? platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean!
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ??? Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???..
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ??? I have looked on Google and, so far, failed.
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ??? Yes, I?ve got the manuals.
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ??? Thanks,
>     >>>>
>     >>>> ??? Simon
>     >>>>
>     >>
>     >> _______________________________________________
>     >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     >> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>     >>
>     >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     >> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>     >>
>     >> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>     >>
>     >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     >>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net>
>     >>
>     >
>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 15:25:58 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 14:25:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Main batter cable
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_oaVmnff5GYg_7twgAOm83GhM93cUG75srw8dosM8Dnw@mail.gmail.com>

Got under my car yesterday to see if I could remove the angle drive from my
Toyota 5 spd.  Could not reach it with two wheels on jack stands, but did
notice the insulation on my now positive main cable had a section about an
inch and a half where the insulation had warn away and bare metal was
exposed just ahead of a clamp holding to the frame. Not sure how I did not
short out the car. I wrapped it with black electrical tape until I can
replace the wire. I had angels looking out for me on my trip to Conclave.

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 17:06:48 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 19:06:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Book
In-Reply-To: <097a5b16-2694-cf40-9f69-9e278bce89bf@comcast.net>
References: <000a01d6e813$1d7cd030$58767090$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <EA826028-6F36-465C-A252-0AF4F98671C7@gmail.com>
 <000701d6e962$33a70920$9af51b60$@xtra.co.nz>
 <ef0b8baf-8aeb-0dc4-1060-08009f1c01bb@comcast.net>
 <233446331.1622654.1625097937381@mail.yahoo.com>
 <003801d76ec3$a93af390$fbb0dab0$@xtra.co.nz>
 <37360b78-49fc-22dc-4953-39ffe875fdd0@earthlink.net>
 <097a5b16-2694-cf40-9f69-9e278bce89bf@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7gRWeDgqXUWy2MiOwtOKVo3hD=e3sXwWMUoVdf29Nstw@mail.gmail.com>

For whatever reason the "common wisdom" is to NOT install fuses in race
cars.  I dunno why.  That said, I have them in my race cars (Ginetta G4 and
Elva MK IV) and each DC appliance on my Healey is separately
fused, including the headlights. *(Yes, David, I know, I know!)*

Best--Michael Oritt

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:47 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Interesting that he doesn't believe in using fuses. Or electronic
> ignitions, which are in pretty much every car built today. Modern
> ECU/COP systems--with no moving parts--are vastly superior to points and
> distributors, but less fixable to us shadetree mechanics.
>
> To say he's 'Old School' would be an understatement.
>
>
> On 7/6/2021 6:40 AM, Bob Haskell wrote:
> > Prepare to Win, page 152 attached.  Part of the chapter on Electrics,
> > Instruments, Fuel Cells.  Doesn't like Lucas in general and the master
> > cutoff switches and distributors in particular.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Bob Haskell
> > Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> >
> > On 7/1/21 5:54 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
> >>
> >> Hello, Sarah,
> >>
> >> I will try to find the page over the weekend.
> >>
> >> But Carroll said basically something like this: * ?Lucas electrics
> >> are NFG and I do not intended to discuss them any further?.*
> >>
> >> I?ve had a quick look this morning but cannot find it.  I?ll have a
> >> better look over the weekend.  If I find it I?ll scan the page and
> >> post it.
> >>
> >> To be honest, I?ve been using Lucas electrics for 50 years and I?ve
> >> had no problems that weren?t created by *ME*, taking them for
> >> granted.  And even then, they were minor.
> >>
> >> Best
> >>
> >> Mark
> >>
> >> Ardmore, NZ
> >>
> >> *From:*S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
> >> *Sent:* Friday, 2 July 2021 2:29 a.m.
> >> *To:* David Lodge <emmgeeteesee at gmail.com>; healeys
> >> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
> >>
> >> Mark ? Please tell us what the sentence said!!
> >>
> >> Sarah Carr
> >>
> >> BN1 in PA
> >>
> >> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> >> Windows 10
> >>
> >> *From: *David Lodge via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> >> *Sent: *Wednesday, June 30, 2021 8:08 PM
> >> *To: *healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>; Bob
> >> Spidell <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>
> >> *Cc: *David Lodge <mailto:emmgeeteecee at yahoo.co.uk>
> >> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Book
> >>
> >>
> >> Smokey Yunick's book is pretty good, too (mostly for V8s, but plenty
> >> of good tips):
> >>
> >> https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/
> >> <https://hotrodenginetech.com/smokey-yunicks-power-secrets/>
> >>
> >> On 1/12/2021 8:11 PM, Mark Donaldson wrote:
> >>
> >> A man after my own heart, Chris. ?
> >>
> >>  And there are also the three wonderful books by the late, great,
> >> *Carroll Smith*  . . .  Prepare to Win, Tune to Win, and Engineer to
> >> Win.
> >>
> >> *There is a whole chapter on Lucas electrics in one other them.  It
> >> comprises just one sentence**.*?
> >>
> >> Mark
> >>
> >> Ardmore, NZ
> >>
> >> *From:*Chris Dimmock <austin.healey at gmail.com>
> >> <mailto:austin.healey at gmail.com>
> >> *Sent:* Wednesday, 13 January 2021 1:27 a.m.
> >> *To:* simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> >> <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com>
> >> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
> >> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Book
> >>
> >> In the World of A Series engines, the ?Bible? is Vizards book.
> >>
> >> ?Tuning the A Series Engine?
> >>
> >> I?d recommend it wholeheartedly because most of the principles apply
> >> to B series and C Series BMC engines.
> >>
> >> I keep a copy beside my bed.
> >>
> >> Mostly because I?m an insomniac.
> >>
> >> ?
> >>
> >> But also because when I have those things racing around in my mind at
> >> 3.00am, I can check the book....
> >>
> >> Chris
> >>
> >>     On 11 Jan 2021, at 11:13 pm, simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com
> >>     <mailto:simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>     ?
> >>
> >>     Hi,
> >>
> >>     Is there a book out there on rebuilding BMC C-Series engines?
> >>     Preferably, AH 3000 engines!
> >>
> >>     The book would hopefully show one what to look for, options
> >>     regarding performance parts and modifications that needed to be
> >>     done by specialists. ie, I don?t want to get near the end of some
> >>     rebuild process and then be told that part number xyz needs to go
> >>     off to the lab to be machined to the nearest nanowotsit and have
> >>     platinum inserts installed. If you see what I mean!
> >>
> >>     Maybe something one stage up from ?Engines for Dummies???..
> >>
> >>     I have looked on Google and, so far, failed.
> >>
> >>     Yes, I?ve got the manuals.
> >>
> >>     Thanks,
> >>
> >>     Simon
> >>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Tue Jul  6 23:58:24 2021
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2021 22:58:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?brake_cylinders?=
Message-ID: <20210707055824.56665.qmail@server278.com>

recently i bought TRW cylinders from Moss for a BT7.  i had to file them down to fit the hole in backing plate.  when i 
quizzed moss about this, the guy on the desk looked them up in his computer and stated that it said "some grinding and 
filing may be necessary.  this was not mentioned in the catalog.  never had to file the cheapy ones.

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 15:14:55 2021
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 14:14:55 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -
In-Reply-To: <1556651814.609819.1625578746779@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABXhz8-2HGznK4K87EaqWXhbZMS0Ntf4zaL4ZTueWyo+dA2F1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CO1PR10MB4770B92A0215DDE71574F7D0A41C9@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFBXTkLKY1Xfw4piu_zkfwxCXF8XhHg7+M6V5++wiGRtDL7pOw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1556651814.609819.1625578746779@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeTRRYeLGXfZgk7kiynYgKONhHaauDMHbPbWWX5gKDuexg@mail.gmail.com>

I just talked with Geoff the other day, he just sent me my restored side
curtains in green, and a new green "Armacord" boot liner pad. My old one
was destroyed by a leaking gas tank.

Cheers,

Curt

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 6:40 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I met Rich at a Conclave a long time ago & always looked forward to seeing
> him at those events & sharing our Healey stories & other common interests.
> I purchased a 100 project car from Rich shortly before he died. I am still
> slowly working on it & love the idea that when it is done it will be homage
> to Rich. In the mean time, I get a lot of enjoyment from having a project I
> like to work on!
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue Jul  6 15:17:24 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 14:17:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Richard Chrysler -
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeTRRYeLGXfZgk7kiynYgKONhHaauDMHbPbWWX5gKDuexg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB2507128B058CF795FA0CA7B2D11C9@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
 <CABXhz8-2HGznK4K87EaqWXhbZMS0Ntf4zaL4ZTueWyo+dA2F1Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <CO1PR10MB4770B92A0215DDE71574F7D0A41C9@CO1PR10MB4770.namprd10.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFBXTkLKY1Xfw4piu_zkfwxCXF8XhHg7+M6V5++wiGRtDL7pOw@mail.gmail.com>
 <1556651814.609819.1625578746779@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAJKrNeTRRYeLGXfZgk7kiynYgKONhHaauDMHbPbWWX5gKDuexg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88HhazATZgmZEN96THFbrR2kG9G-FAzDTVzrL_cRE5y9Q@mail.gmail.com>

My wife and I visited him a few years ago on Vancouver Island. He makes his
dad proud with his attention to details. He had his MGB then.

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021, 2:15 PM Curtis Arndt <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

> I just talked with Geoff the other day, he just sent me my restored side
> curtains in green, and a new green "Armacord" boot liner pad. My old one
> was destroyed by a leaking gas tank.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 6:40 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I met Rich at a Conclave a long time ago & always looked forward to
>> seeing him at those events & sharing our Healey stories & other common
>> interests.
>> I purchased a 100 project car from Rich shortly before he died. I am
>> still slowly working on it & love the idea that when it is done it will be
>> homage to Rich. In the mean time, I get a lot of enjoyment from having a
>> project I like to work on!
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From 67healey at gmail.com  Wed Jul  7 09:41:44 2021
From: 67healey at gmail.com (Healey)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 08:41:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <21d67d9c-4f75-9d18-ac79-a267ba8c329e@earthlink.net>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
 <92675e7b-9394-87eb-b76a-8df27753fdac@comcast.net>
 <CAFbzz18axOdiuvyVLPZcN_y5KddLdvaPomhmVsv8JL+LLg4QWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <21d67d9c-4f75-9d18-ac79-a267ba8c329e@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <CAFbzz19HLtrwjNqT8-WkjZm49AjQy9uuqsTZdfqWop_RtmApwQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Bob - thanks - I just used regular DOT3 - nothing fancy

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:45 AM Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Neil,
>
> I'd start with the wheel cylinder as that's what was replaced. What are
> you using for brake fluid?  Some master cylinders that I've bought from
> Moss aren't compatible with DOT 5 - voids the warranty.  Don't know if
> that applies to their wheel cylinders or not.
>
> If you change the rubber hose, you ought to make sure the metal line is
> clear too.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
>
> On 7/6/21 11:34 AM, Healey wrote:
> > Hi Bob,
> >
> >  No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never
> > heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston
> > obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the
> > problem.
> >  So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side
> > works fine), correct?
> >
> > Thanks in advance
> >
> > On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net
> > <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net>> wrote:
> >
> >     Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before
> >     install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but
> >     when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not
> >     be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's
> >     anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong so the
> >     cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed
> >     several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and Tom Monaco
> >     told me they're fine.
> >
> >
> >     On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
> >
> >          I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers
> >         side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install &
> >         adjustment, except that on its inaugural run, it became
> >         quickly apparent that things were not right.
> >          Took the drum back off again, only to find that the
> >         cylinder was not retracting properly.
> >           Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the
> >         rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these
> >         rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to feed both rear brakes
> >         - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the
> >         passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ.
> >         Driver's side spring is ok btw.
> >          So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber
> >         pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't
> >         this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?
> >
> >           Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
> >         cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket
> >         cylinder @ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or
> >         do I replace both? or?
> >
> >           Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both
> >         are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal
> >         mounting plate underneath.
> >
> >           Thanks in advance,
> >
> >         Neil
> >
> >
> >     _______________________________________________
> >     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >     <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> >     Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> >     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> >     <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
> >     http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> >
> >     Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> >     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> >
> >     Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/67healey at gmail.com
> >     <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/67healey at gmail.com>
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
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> >
>
>
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From 67healey at gmail.com  Wed Jul  7 09:46:30 2021
From: 67healey at gmail.com (Healey)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 08:46:30 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJPp3A=4VcR12K5Bd3vYq_t+uOaC=DpSZoNF1J+Vox4Vg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJPp3A=4VcR12K5Bd3vYq_t+uOaC=DpSZoNF1J+Vox4Vg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFbzz1-7o6C09hO+33QY59Xf82f+r9Rt7xPZ-SaaWz0kJZNb7Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Michael - to elaborate - after a few miles of driving, the rear brake in
question was getting so hot, it started to smoke :-(
In retrospect, that was probably exacerbated by there still being some
residual brake fluid on the drum (even though I thought I had cleaned it
all off) from the previous / original wheel cylinder that went bad.
However, the underlying problem of the cylinder not retracting is confirmed
with the drum off.

Thanks,

Neil

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:58 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Perhaps you could better describe "things were not right".
> If the brake was not overly hot there may be no problem.
> When correctly adjusted the wheel cylinder only operates in the first
> couple of mm of its stroke, the rest of the bore serves only as a guide for
> the piston.
>
> M
>
> On Mon., Jul. 5, 2021, 6:38 p.m. Healey, <67healey at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>  I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
>> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on
>> its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
>>  Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
>> retracting properly.
>>   Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
>> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that
>> goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the
>> driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
>> champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>>  So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
>> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear
>> brakes, not just one of them?
>>
>>   Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
>> cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14
>> as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>>
>>   Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
>> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
>>
>>   Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Neil
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From 67healey at gmail.com  Wed Jul  7 09:51:32 2021
From: 67healey at gmail.com (Healey)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 08:51:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <e753fa8e-b3e8-69b3-5301-1473d73ac294@comcast.net>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
 <92675e7b-9394-87eb-b76a-8df27753fdac@comcast.net>
 <CAFbzz18axOdiuvyVLPZcN_y5KddLdvaPomhmVsv8JL+LLg4QWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <e753fa8e-b3e8-69b3-5301-1473d73ac294@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFbzz1-BD+Ur+aqmws0whmSREDjCY+6g4xjMQ9eQ3c8k_TGa4A@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any damage. And thanks
for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes.

Based on everyone's comments I'll take out the offending wheel
cylinder again to see if I can see if there is anything wrong internally
with it. And then move onto blowing out the hardline if required. That will
be a "Sunday job" so, I'll circle back with the list after that - thanks!

Cheers,

Neil

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard line
> (not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some contaminant
> got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but might prevent
> withdrawal of the piston.
>
> BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least 20K
> miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my Healeys due to
> wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot completely remove brake or
> differential fluid from shoes once they've been soaked).
>
> bs
>
>
> On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:
>
> Hi Bob,
>
>  No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never
> heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston obviously
> moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the problem.
>  So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side works
> fine), correct?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before install? I
>> just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked they
>> seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull the
>> recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the retract
>> springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be stuck.
>> FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and
>> Tom Monaco told me they're fine.
>>
>>
>> On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:
>>
>>>  I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side)
>>> earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on
>>> its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
>>>  Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not
>>> retracting properly.
>>>   Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber
>>> pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that
>>> goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the
>>> driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a
>>> champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
>>>  So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was
>>> swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear
>>> brakes, not just one of them?
>>>
>>>   Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel
>>> cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14
>>> as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?
>>>
>>>   Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly
>>> worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.
>>>
>>>   Thanks in advance,
>>>
>>> Neil
>>>
>>>
>>
>
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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul  7 10:11:00 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 09:11:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <CAFbzz1-BD+Ur+aqmws0whmSREDjCY+6g4xjMQ9eQ3c8k_TGa4A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
 <92675e7b-9394-87eb-b76a-8df27753fdac@comcast.net>
 <CAFbzz18axOdiuvyVLPZcN_y5KddLdvaPomhmVsv8JL+LLg4QWg@mail.gmail.com>
 <e753fa8e-b3e8-69b3-5301-1473d73ac294@comcast.net>
 <CAFbzz1-BD+Ur+aqmws0whmSREDjCY+6g4xjMQ9eQ3c8k_TGa4A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FE605167B4F04C06AE589B8F75ACDD8F@DavidNockHP>

This has been an issue for many years. The casting on the outer of the cylinder is a little large for the hole in the backing plate. All you need to do is file down on each side of the cylinder so it fits into the backing plate.


David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the 
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites 
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org


From: Healey 
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2021 8:51 AM
To: Bob Spidell 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake

Thanks Bob - the original brake line is intact w/o any damage. And thanks for the estimate on miles left in the existing shoes. 

Based on everyone's comments I'll take out the offending wheel cylinder again to see if I can see if there is anything wrong internally with it. And then move onto blowing out the hardline if required. That will be a "Sunday job" so, I'll circle back with the list after that - thanks!

Cheers,

Neil

On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 10:02 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

  I don't. Have you looked for any kinks or sharp bends in the hard line (not likely to change, but we're grasping here)? Possibly, some contaminant got into the line, which can be overcome with pressure but might prevent withdrawal of the piston.

  BTW, from your description, your rear shoes probably have at least 20K miles of material left. I've never had to change shoes in my Healeys due to wear; usually it's because of leaks (you cannot completely remove brake or differential fluid from shoes once they've been soaked).

  bs



  On 7/6/2021 8:34 AM, Healey wrote:

    Hi Bob, 

    No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the problem.
    So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side works fine), correct?

    Thanks in advance

    On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

      Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong so the cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and Tom Monaco told me they're fine.


      On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:

        I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install & adjustment, except that on its inaugural run, it became quickly apparent that things were not right.
        Took the drum back off again, only to find that the cylinder was not retracting properly.
          Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to feed both rear brakes - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ. Driver's side spring is ok btw.
        So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?

          Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket cylinder @ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or do I replace both? or?

          Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal mounting plate underneath.

          Thanks in advance,

        Neil








--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul  7 10:12:04 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 09:12:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <CAFbzz1-7o6C09hO+33QY59Xf82f+r9Rt7xPZ-SaaWz0kJZNb7Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJPp3A=4VcR12K5Bd3vYq_t+uOaC=DpSZoNF1J+Vox4Vg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFbzz1-7o6C09hO+33QY59Xf82f+r9Rt7xPZ-SaaWz0kJZNb7Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <c5dc652d-aa2e-6d5a-8f7d-41e29580d654@comcast.net>

re: '... there still being some residual brake fluid on the drum (even 
though I thought I had cleaned it all off) ...'

Can't be done. I tried once, by cleaning--with brake cleaner--sanding 
the 'wet' off and repeat repeat repeat. I thought I had some cleaned, 
but after sitting overnight brake fluid would ooze out, no matter how 
many times I tried to clean them. Maybe, if it's a light 'dusting' of 
fluid, and you get to it immediately you can have some success, but who 
wants to take any chances with brakes?

FWIW, I've 'voided the warranty' several times using silicone BF with no 
issues (I have had problems with DoT 3, though). I don't recall the 
'Classic Gold' cylinders I got from Moss having that warning on the box. 
I was grateful to pay a reasonable price for front cylinders for a BN2; 
years ago they were something like $70 per for F/R. I never figured out 
why, just for the front rights, but we got one that was obviously a 
return (slightly) cleaned-up and put back on the shelf. Moss, among 
others--looking at you, RockAuto--apparently put returns back on the 
shelf without inspecting them.

bs


On 7/7/2021 8:46 AM, Healey wrote:
> Hi Michael - to elaborate - after a few miles of driving, the rear 
> brake in question was getting so hot, it started to smoke :-(
> In retrospect, that was probably exacerbated by there still being some 
> residual brake fluid on the drum (even though I thought I had cleaned 
> it all off) from the previous / original wheel cylinder that went bad.
> However, the underlying problem of the cylinder?not retracting is 
> confirmed with the drum off.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Neil
>
> On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:58 AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com 
> <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>     Perhaps you could better describe "things were not right".
>     If the brake was not overly hot there may be no problem.
>     When correctly adjusted the wheel cylinder only operates in the
>     first couple of mm of its stroke, the rest of the bore serves only
>     as a guide for the piston.
>
>     M
>

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Jul  7 10:34:30 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 10:34:30 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 Rear Brake
In-Reply-To: <c5dc652d-aa2e-6d5a-8f7d-41e29580d654@comcast.net>
References: <CAFbzz1_W=_gnrnYBo8M7fX-6RtWMjnfsMM1WaitWBRgM+iRJ2w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJPp3A=4VcR12K5Bd3vYq_t+uOaC=DpSZoNF1J+Vox4Vg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFbzz1-7o6C09hO+33QY59Xf82f+r9Rt7xPZ-SaaWz0kJZNb7Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <c5dc652d-aa2e-6d5a-8f7d-41e29580d654@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <32346e2f-e748-ec43-d000-bac1bc462813@porterscustom.com>

Aside from the filing to fit, those cylinders MUST slide in the opening 
in order for the shoes to center in the drum. Lately, when both retainer 
clips are inserted the cylinder is immobile, so the side grooves must be 
filed as well.. Best to rebuild the originals if and when possible.. 
NAPA, et al have the cups and the other rubber bits from the Moss, 
etc..? daveP

On 7/7/2021 10:12 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
> re: '... there still being some residual brake fluid on the drum (even 
> though I thought I had cleaned it all off) ...'
>
> Can't be done. I tried once, by cleaning--with brake cleaner--sanding 
> the 'wet' off and repeat repeat repeat. I thought I had some cleaned, 
> but after sitting overnight brake fluid would ooze out, no matter how 
> many times I tried to clean them. Maybe, if it's a light 'dusting' of 
> fluid, and you get to it immediately you can have some success, but 
> who wants to take any chances with brakes?
>
> FWIW, I've 'voided the warranty' several times using silicone BF with 
> no issues (I have had problems with DoT 3, though). I don't recall the 
> 'Classic Gold' cylinders I got from Moss having that warning on the 
> box. I was grateful to pay a reasonable price for front cylinders for 
> a BN2; years ago they were something like $70 per for F/R. I never 
> figured out why, just for the front rights, but we got one that was 
> obviously a return (slightly) cleaned-up and put back on the shelf. 
> Moss, among others--looking at you, RockAuto--apparently put returns 
> back on the shelf without inspecting them.
>
> bs
>
>
> On 7/7/2021 8:46 AM, Healey wrote:
>> Hi Michael - to elaborate - after a few miles of driving, the rear 
>> brake in question was getting so hot, it started to smoke :-(
>> In retrospect, that was probably exacerbated by there still being 
>> some residual brake fluid on the drum (even though I thought I had 
>> cleaned it all off) from the previous / original wheel cylinder that 
>> went bad.
>> However, the underlying problem of the cylinder?not retracting is 
>> confirmed with the drum off.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Neil
>>
>> On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:58 AM Michael Salter 
>> <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     Perhaps you could better describe "things were not right".
>>     If the brake was not overly hot there may be no problem.
>>     When correctly adjusted the wheel cylinder only operates in the
>>     first couple of mm of its stroke, the rest of the bore serves
>>     only as a guide for the piston.
>>
>>     M
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From manifold at telus.net  Wed Jul  7 20:57:58 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 19:57:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Removing Side Shift Control Shaft
Message-ID: <C54AC055-2F47-4EBC-9152-75E9B511C0B2@hxcore.ol>

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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Jul  8 07:00:14 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 09:00:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake
Message-ID: <1884580018.56060745.1625749214355.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

Recently (maybe 6 months ago) I installed a new clutch disc and TOB.  (PP looked good so didn't add a new one)  Shifts great but when starting the car even with it out of gear, it "groans" a second or so when the engine starts but goes away and I would only hear it at times when I down shifted.  Once hot I never heard it.  Then--------I took a 600 mile trip over the last two days.  I began to hear it more and at different times---Pushing the clutch in, starting the car and downshifting.  Several times I heard what sounded like a "ping" when I pressed the cutch pedal.I have a hunch it is the PP-----could be one of the fingers got bent when installing??  Otherwise, I have no idea.Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than these speeds.
What to do------what to do???Any thoughts would be appreciated.Tom
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu Jul  8 07:15:00 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 09:15:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <1884580018.56060745.1625749214355.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <1884580018.56060745.1625749214355.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+6SrNdxsCtWu9MjipY_-UAfi2hN5DtN-EOr4yfXepTJw@mail.gmail.com>

Tom,  as you suspect I would be suspicious of the pressure plate. It would
be wise to take a look ...
My experience regarding scuttle shake is that "shaving" the tyres makes a
huge difference.
https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/29/tire-truing-a-home-solution/

M

On Thu., Jul. 8, 2021, 9:00 a.m. Tom Felts, <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

> Recently (maybe 6 months ago) I installed a new clutch disc and TOB.  (PP
> looked good so didn't add a new one)  Shifts great but when starting the
> car even with it out of gear, it "groans" a second or so when the engine
> starts but goes away and I would only hear it at times when I down
> shifted.  Once hot I never heard it.  Then--------I took a 600 mile trip
> over the last two days.  I began to hear it more and at different
> times---Pushing the clutch in, starting the car and downshifting.  Several
> times I heard what sounded like a "ping" when I pressed the cutch pedal.
>
> I have a hunch it is the PP-----could be one of the fingers got bent when
> installing??  Otherwise, I have no idea.
>
> Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded
> scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake
> "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear
> drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is
> comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove
> slower or faster than these speeds.
>
> What to do------what to do???
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Thu Jul  8 07:25:49 2021
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 09:25:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+6SrNdxsCtWu9MjipY_-UAfi2hN5DtN-EOr4yfXepTJw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+6SrNdxsCtWu9MjipY_-UAfi2hN5DtN-EOr4yfXepTJw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <E956D86F-6E14-420A-90DD-A30E71C30506@gmail.com>

Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no scuttle shake.

> On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Tom,  as you suspect I would be suspicious of the pressure plate. It would be wise to take a look ... 
> My experience regarding scuttle shake is that "shaving" the tyres makes a huge difference. 
> https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/29/tire-truing-a-home-solution/
> 
> M
> 
>> On Thu., Jul. 8, 2021, 9:00 a.m. Tom Felts, <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
>> Recently (maybe 6 months ago) I installed a new clutch disc and TOB.  (PP looked good so didn't add a new one)  Shifts great but when starting the car even with it out of gear, it "groans" a second or so when the engine starts but goes away and I would only hear it at times when I down shifted.  Once hot I never heard it.  Then--------I took a 600 mile trip over the last two days.  I began to hear it more and at different times---Pushing the clutch in, starting the car and downshifting.  Several times I heard what sounded like a "ping" when I pressed the cutch pedal.
>> 
>> I have a hunch it is the PP-----could be one of the fingers got bent when installing??  Otherwise, I have no idea.
>> 
>> Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than these speeds.
>> 
>> What to do------what to do???
>> 
>> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>> Tom
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift at gmail.com
> 
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Thu Jul  8 09:14:21 2021
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 16:14:21 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <1884580018.56060745.1625749214355.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <1884580018.56060745.1625749214355.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLU2hWfZRmTaMx2vtB3u6G7KAe8zOkEHjoSVy-zMNwHKZg@mail.gmail.com>

Tom

Have you checked the prop shaft?

Could it be loose, worn where the needle bearings are, or out of Phase.

Regards

On Thu, 8 Jul 2021 at 14:00, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

> Recently (maybe 6 months ago) I installed a new clutch disc and TOB.  (PP
> looked good so didn't add a new one)  Shifts great but when starting the
> car even with it out of gear, it "groans" a second or so when the engine
> starts but goes away and I would only hear it at times when I down
> shifted.  Once hot I never heard it.  Then--------I took a 600 mile trip
> over the last two days.  I began to hear it more and at different
> times---Pushing the clutch in, starting the car and downshifting.  Several
> times I heard what sounded like a "ping" when I pressed the cutch pedal.
>
> I have a hunch it is the PP-----could be one of the fingers got bent when
> installing??  Otherwise, I have no idea.
>
> Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded
> scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake
> "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear
> drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is
> comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove
> slower or faster than these speeds.
>
> What to do------what to do???
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jul  8 09:34:40 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 08:34:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <1884580018.56060745.1625749214355.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <1884580018.56060745.1625749214355.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <8ca7200e-13eb-fe13-0187-9e70f2ef2d56@comcast.net>

I've haven't been able to drive it a lot because I have brake issues and 
got kicked out of my house and have to move quickly, but new (MWS) 
wheels and tires seems to have eliminated scuttle shake in my BN2.

I'd be hard-pressed to believe a PP 'finger' got bent, that's some 
pretty strong steel (unless, like a lot of things, the new PPs have been 
cheapened to increase profit and executive bonuses). I have no clue, but 
suspect you'll have to pull the gearbox to find out what's going on.

Afterthought: I don't recall which Healey you have, but if it's a 4-cyl 
or one of the earlier 6s they have a coil spring PP instead of the later 
diaphragm type; if so it's possible one of those springs is broken. My 
BJ8 once had a disk with a busted vibration damper spring--it that's 
what they're called--which caused some judder when engaging.

Bob


On 7/8/2021 6:00 AM, Tom Felts wrote:
> Recently (maybe 6 months ago) I installed a new clutch disc and TOB.? 
> (PP looked good so didn't add a new one)? Shifts great but when 
> starting the car even with it out of gear, it "groans" a second or so 
> when the engine starts but goes away and I would only hear it at times 
> when I down shifted.? Once hot I never heard it.? Then--------I took a 
> 600 mile trip over the last two days.? I began to hear it more and at 
> different times---Pushing the clutch in, starting the car and 
> downshifting.? Several times I heard what sounded like a "ping" when I 
> pressed the cutch pedal.
>
> I have a hunch it is the PP-----could be one of the fingers got bent 
> when installing??? Otherwise, I have no idea.
>
> Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the 
> dreaded scuttle shake.? I have balanced all wheels--even added the 
> scuttle shake "mod"? (cross beams on the inner body, behind the 
> engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.? All to no 
> avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!? The drive was 
> wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than these 
> speeds.
>
> What to do------what to do???
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> Tom
>
>
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jul  8 09:36:53 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 08:36:53 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+6SrNdxsCtWu9MjipY_-UAfi2hN5DtN-EOr4yfXepTJw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1884580018.56060745.1625749214355.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <CAB3i7L+6SrNdxsCtWu9MjipY_-UAfi2hN5DtN-EOr4yfXepTJw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <d543c403-40c6-642e-4208-0a53366e2beb@comcast.net>

re: '... My experience regarding scuttle shake is that "shaving" the 
tyres makes a huge difference'

It also voids the tyres' warranty (at least for Vredesteins).

bs

On 7/8/2021 6:15 AM, Michael Salter wrote:
> Tom,? as you suspect I would be suspicious of the pressure plate. It 
> would be wise to take a look ...
> My experience regarding scuttle shake is that "shaving" the tyres 
> makes a huge difference.
> https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/29/tire-truing-a-home-solution/ 
> <https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/29/tire-truing-a-home-solution/>
>
> M
>
> On Thu., Jul. 8, 2021, 9:00 a.m. Tom Felts, <tomfelts at windstream.net 
> <mailto:tomfelts at windstream.net>> wrote:
>
>     Recently (maybe 6 months ago) I installed a new clutch disc and
>     TOB.? (PP looked good so didn't add a new one) Shifts great but
>     when starting the car even with it out of gear, it "groans" a
>     second or so when the engine starts but goes away and I would only
>     hear it at times when I down shifted.? Once hot I never heard it.?
>     Then--------I took a 600 mile trip over the last two days.? I
>     began to hear it more and at different times---Pushing the clutch
>     in, starting the car and downshifting.? Several times I heard what
>     sounded like a "ping" when I pressed the cutch pedal.
>
>     I have a hunch it is the PP-----could be one of the fingers got
>     bent when installing??? Otherwise, I have no idea.
>
>     Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the
>     dreaded scuttle shake.? I have balanced all wheels--even added the
>     scuttle shake "mod"? (cross beams on the inner body, behind the
>     engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.? All to no
>     avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!? The drive was
>     wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than
>     these speeds.
>
>     What to do------what to do???
>
>     Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>     Tom
>
>
>
>

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Thu Jul  8 10:56:38 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 12:56:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
Message-ID: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>

I had the tires shaved and balanced and the tech marked each tire as to the position the car.  The best were on the front right left and the worst were rear right and left.  Did not balance brake drums or anything else.  Now only a little shake which is acceptable.  Best $200 I ever spent on my BJ8, along with the new Michelin 180 tires which cost a little more.

 

Hard to find a garage which has the equipment.  You need to do an in-depth search for Shaving Tires Near Me.  Fortunately, I found a great guy with the original equipment 2 hours drive across the state of Florida.  Note, you may find garages listed that only have equipment for Truck Tires.

 

Bob Begani

Punta Gorda Florida

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Team.net
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 9:26 AM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no scuttle shake.





On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:

?

 

Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than these speeds.

 

What to do------what to do???

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Tom

 

 

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From rfbegani at gmail.com  Thu Jul  8 10:58:48 2021
From: rfbegani at gmail.com (rfbegani at gmail.com)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 12:58:48 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
References: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000f01d7741a$85db6a40$91923ec0$@gmail.com>

https://tinyurl.com/jnd85dvk   Youtube showing how they do it on the car and the equipment.

 

From: rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com> 
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 12:57 PM
To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>; 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

I had the tires shaved and balanced and the tech marked each tire as to the position the car.  The best were on the front right left and the worst were rear right and left.  Did not balance brake drums or anything else.  Now only a little shake which is acceptable.  Best $200 I ever spent on my BJ8, along with the new Michelin 180 tires which cost a little more.

 

Hard to find a garage which has the equipment.  You need to do an in-depth search for Shaving Tires Near Me.  Fortunately, I found a great guy with the original equipment 2 hours drive across the state of Florida.  Note, you may find garages listed that only have equipment for Truck Tires.

 

Bob Begani

Punta Gorda Florida

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Team.net
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 9:26 AM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >
Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no scuttle shake.

 

On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:

?

 

Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than these speeds.

 

What to do------what to do???

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Tom

 

 

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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Thu Jul  8 11:56:06 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 13:56:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <000f01d7741a$85db6a40$91923ec0$@gmail.com>
References: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
 <000f01d7741a$85db6a40$91923ec0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1522491550.56473781.1625766966135.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

I have no scuttle shake on my 66 E-Type OTS and it is smooth as silk at all speeds. Why would a Healey or any car be any different? If this was a function of the tires, would'nt we see tires being shaved on many different cars? I have this strange suspicion it is unique to the Healey.
----- Original Message -----
From: rfbegani at gmail.com
To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>, 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, 08 Jul 2021 12:58:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake

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-->https://tinyurl.com/jnd85dvk   Youtube showing how they do it on the car and the equipment. From: rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com> 
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 12:57 PM
To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>; 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: "SS" aka--scuttle shake I had the tires shaved and balanced and the tech marked each tire as to the position the car.  The best were on the front right left and the worst were rear right and left.  Did not balance brake drums or anything else.  Now only a little shake which is acceptable.  Best $200 I ever spent on my BJ8, along with the new Michelin 180 tires which cost a little more. Hard to find a garage which has the equipment.  You need to do an in-depth search for Shaving Tires Near Me.  Fortunately, I found a great guy with the original equipment 2 hours drive across the state of Florida.  Note, you may find garages listed that only have equipment for Truck Tires. Bob BeganiPunta Gorda Florida From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Team.net
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 9:26 AM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no scuttle shake. On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:? Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than these speeds. What to do------what to do??? Any thoughts would be appreciated.Tom  
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From llennep at verizon.net  Thu Jul  8 11:58:15 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 17:58:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
References: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2110730574.2728420.1625767095180@mail.yahoo.com>

I have been told for many years that the rear axle housing, brake assemblies etc on these cars are so heavy that any imbalance will not be noticed. ?Not so. ?I balanced mine and I could feel the difference. ?Also balanced a few other drums. ?I strongly recommend balancing drums!!! ?You will be surprised at how much out of balance some of them are.


-----Original Message-----
From: rfbegani at gmail.com
To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>; 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 8, 2021 12:56 pm
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake

<!--#yiv7991754627 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv7991754627 #yiv7991754627 p.yiv7991754627MsoNormal, #yiv7991754627 li.yiv7991754627MsoNormal, #yiv7991754627 div.yiv7991754627MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv7991754627 a:link, #yiv7991754627 span.yiv7991754627MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv7991754627 span.yiv7991754627EmailStyle19 {font-family:"Arial", sans-serif;color:windowtext;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}#yiv7991754627 .yiv7991754627MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv7991754627 div.yiv7991754627WordSection1 {}-->I had the tires shaved and balanced and the tech marked each tire as to the position the car.? The best were on the front right left and the worst were rear right and left.? Did not balance brake drums or anything else.? Now only a little shake which is acceptable.? Best $200 I ever spent on my BJ8, along with the new Michelin 180 tires which cost a little more. ?Hard to find a garage which has the equipment.? You need to do an in-depth search for Shaving Tires Near Me.? Fortunately, I found a great guy with the original equipment 2 hours drive across the state of Florida.? Note, you may find garages listed that only have equipment for Truck Tires. ?Bob BeganiPunta Gorda Florida ?From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Team.net
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 9:26 AM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake ?Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no scuttle shake.


On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

?
 ?Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded scuttle shake.? I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake "mod"? (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.? All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!? The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than these speeds. ?What to do------what to do??? ?Any thoughts would be appreciated.Tom ?
 ?
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Thu Jul  8 16:52:01 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 18:52:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <1522491550.56473781.1625766966135.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
 <000f01d7741a$85db6a40$91923ec0$@gmail.com>
 <1522491550.56473781.1625766966135.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <01ce01d7744b$de150e10$9a3f2a30$@rr.com>

Well, first of all the structures are different between the E-type and the BJ8.  The purpose of the structural mod to the firewall is to stiffen it to increase its natural vibration frequency.  I did that mod and noticed the difference, but it didn?t remove all of the shake.  Allen Hendrix did his magic by balancing and truing the wheels and shaving the tires.  It removed almost all of the shake, and balancing the drums did the rest.  I consider myself lucky to live close enough to Allen that I can take the car to him when necessary.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 1:56 PM
To: rfbegani at gmail.com
Cc: 'healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

I have no scuttle shake on my 66 E-Type OTS and it is smooth as silk at all speeds. Why would a Healey or any car be any different? If this was a function of the tires, would'nt we see tires being shaved on many different cars? I have this strange suspicion it is unique to the Healey.

 

 

 

 

----- Original Message -----
From: rfbegani at gmail.com
To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>, 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, 08 Jul 2021 12:58:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

 

 

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https://tinyurl.com/jnd85dvk   Youtube showing how they do it on the car and the equipment.

 

From: rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com> 
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 12:57 PM
To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>; 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

I had the tires shaved and balanced and the tech marked each tire as to the position the car.  The best were on the front right left and the worst were rear right and left.  Did not balance brake drums or anything else.  Now only a little shake which is acceptable.  Best $200 I ever spent on my BJ8, along with the new Michelin 180 tires which cost a little more.

 

Hard to find a garage which has the equipment.  You need to do an in-depth search for Shaving Tires Near Me.  Fortunately, I found a great guy with the original equipment 2 hours drive across the state of Florida.  Note, you may find garages listed that only have equipment for Truck Tires.

 

Bob Begani

Punta Gorda Florida

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Team.net
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 9:26 AM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no scuttle shake.

 

On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

?

 

Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than these speeds.

 

What to do------what to do???

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Tom

 

 

 

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu Jul  8 16:58:50 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 15:58:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <01ce01d7744b$de150e10$9a3f2a30$@rr.com>
References: <01ce01d7744b$de150e10$9a3f2a30$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <5CD52BC4-7FD2-4E5E-89AC-1E8AA4613825@comcast.net>

FWIW, our ?65 Mustang convertible had ?scuttle shake? as bad as my Healeys. My dad was a factory rep for Ford back then, and he said they all did.

Hagerty magazine has a big write-up on E-Types this month and news to me was that the Jag had a partially tubular chassis, which is likely stiffer than Healeys.?

> On Jul 8, 2021, at 3:52 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Well, first of all the structures are different between the E-type and the BJ8.  The purpose of the structural mod to the firewall is to stiffen it to increase its natural vibration frequency.  I did that mod and noticed the difference, but it didn?t remove all of the shake.  Allen Hendrix did his magic by balancing and truing the wheels and shaving the tires.  It removed almost all of the shake, and balancing the drums did the rest.  I consider myself lucky to live close enough to Allen that I can take the car to him when necessary.
>  
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC 
>  
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts
> Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 1:56 PM
> To: rfbegani at gmail.com
> Cc: 'healeys'
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
>  
> I have no scuttle shake on my 66 E-Type OTS and it is smooth as silk at all speeds. Why would a Healey or any car be any different? If this was a function of the tires, would'nt we see tires being shaved on many different cars? I have this strange suspicion it is unique to the Healey.
>  
>  
>  
>  
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com
> To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>, 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, 08 Jul 2021 12:58:48 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
>  
>  
>  
> @font-face
> {font-family:"Cambria Math";
> panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
> @font-face
> {font-family:Calibri;
> panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
>  
> p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
> {margin:0in;
> font-size:11.0pt;
> font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;}
> a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
> {mso-style-priority:99;
> color:blue;
> text-decoration:underline;}
> span.EmailStyle20
> {mso-style-type:personal-reply;
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> {size:8.5in 11.0in;
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> div.WordSection1
> {page:WordSection1;}
> -->
> https://tinyurl.com/jnd85dvk   Youtube showing how they do it on the car and the equipment.
>  
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com> 
> Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 12:57 PM
> To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>; 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: "SS" aka--scuttle shake
>  
> I had the tires shaved and balanced and the tech marked each tire as to the position the car.  The best were on the front right left and the worst were rear right and left.  Did not balance brake drums or anything else.  Now only a little shake which is acceptable.  Best $200 I ever spent on my BJ8, along with the new Michelin 180 tires which cost a little more.
>  
> Hard to find a garage which has the equipment.  You need to do an in-depth search for Shaving Tires Near Me.  Fortunately, I found a great guy with the original equipment 2 hours drive across the state of Florida.  Note, you may find garages listed that only have equipment for Truck Tires.
>  
> Bob Begani
> Punta Gorda Florida
>  
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Team.net
> Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 9:26 AM
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake
>  
> Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no scuttle shake.
>  
> 
> On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
>  
> Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than these speeds.
>  
> What to do------what to do???
>  
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> Tom
>  
>  
> 
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
> 
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From jpaynepbr at cox.net  Thu Jul  8 17:22:47 2021
From: jpaynepbr at cox.net (jpaynepbr at cox.net)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 16:22:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <5CD52BC4-7FD2-4E5E-89AC-1E8AA4613825@comcast.net>
References: <01ce01d7744b$de150e10$9a3f2a30$@rr.com>
 <5CD52BC4-7FD2-4E5E-89AC-1E8AA4613825@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000801d77450$2bab6ee0$83024ca0$@cox.net>

An E Type is a full unibody aft of the firewall and its sills/rockers form what is effectively a tube chassis.  The front subframe IS a tube chassis.  

 

The sill/tubes are enormous, much like you would see in a serious race car ? GT40, Porsche 917, etc.  The front subframe IS what you would see on any current race car.  

 

Very little comparison between the way an E-Type is engineered and constructed compared to a Healey. 

 

I own both, I love both, but there is no comparisons to be made between the two.   Apples and Coconuts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 3:59 PM
To: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

FWIW, our ?65 Mustang convertible had ?scuttle shake? as bad as my Healeys. My dad was a factory rep for Ford back then, and he said they all did.

 

Hagerty magazine has a big write-up on E-Types this month and news to me was that the Jag had a partially tubular chassis, which is likely stiffer than Healeys.?

 

On Jul 8, 2021, at 3:52 PM, BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com <mailto:sbyers at ec.rr.com> > wrote:

? 

Well, first of all the structures are different between the E-type and the BJ8.  The purpose of the structural mod to the firewall is to stiffen it to increase its natural vibration frequency.  I did that mod and noticed the difference, but it didn?t remove all of the shake.  Allen Hendrix did his magic by balancing and truing the wheels and shaving the tires.  It removed almost all of the shake, and balancing the drums did the rest.  I consider myself lucky to live close enough to Allen that I can take the car to him when necessary.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC  

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tom Felts
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 1:56 PM
To: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> 
Cc: 'healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

I have no scuttle shake on my 66 E-Type OTS and it is smooth as silk at all speeds. Why would a Healey or any car be any different? If this was a function of the tires, would'nt we see tires being shaved on many different cars? I have this strange suspicion it is unique to the Healey.

 

 

 

 

----- Original Message -----
From: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> 
To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com <mailto:lawrence.swift at gmail.com> >, 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >
Sent: Thu, 08 Jul 2021 12:58:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

 

 

@font-face
{font-family:"Cambria Math";
panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
@font-face
{font-family:Calibri;
panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}

 

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https://tinyurl.com/jnd85dvk   Youtube showing how they do it on the car and the equipment.

 

From: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>  <rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 12:57 PM
To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com <mailto:lawrence.swift at gmail.com> >; 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

I had the tires shaved and balanced and the tech marked each tire as to the position the car.  The best were on the front right left and the worst were rear right and left.  Did not balance brake drums or anything else.  Now only a little shake which is acceptable.  Best $200 I ever spent on my BJ8, along with the new Michelin 180 tires which cost a little more.

 

Hard to find a garage which has the equipment.  You need to do an in-depth search for Shaving Tires Near Me.  Fortunately, I found a great guy with the original equipment 2 hours drive across the state of Florida.  Note, you may find garages listed that only have equipment for Truck Tires.

 

Bob Begani

Punta Gorda Florida

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Team.net
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 9:26 AM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> >
Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> >
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no scuttle shake.

 

On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com> > wrote:

?

 

Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than these speeds.

 

What to do------what to do???

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Tom

 

 

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Thu Jul  8 18:27:31 2021
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 20:27:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <2110730574.2728420.1625767095180@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
 <2110730574.2728420.1625767095180@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CADkpZwHLaT5injU1zMvcOLdF5nfEmrRaG8x+dEN582Dqy_pgog@mail.gmail.com>

I had "interesting" conversations with the machine shop the last time I had
drums balanced... I was in the parts store for something else and asked
whether their machines could handle drum balance. They patted me on the
head and said 'you mean turn the drums'. No, I really mean balance.

Machine shop guy says they can handle it, but it's almost impossible the
drums will need it. I dropped off the drums and waited for the call.

Machine shop guy calls to ask how much clearance between the drum and the
wheel? Why, I ask? Because the drums are so far out of balance that
grinding the fins won't work - he needed to weld on weight! There was
clearance, and the car rides MUCH smoother.

They were amazed. I wasn't surprised a bit.

On Thu, Jul 8, 2021, 1:58 PM llennep--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> I have been told for many years that the rear axle housing, brake
> assemblies etc on these cars are so heavy that any imbalance will not be
> noticed.  Not so.  I balanced mine and I could feel the difference.  Also
> balanced a few other drums.  I strongly recommend balancing drums!!!  You
> will be surprised at how much out of balance some of them are.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com
> To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>; 'Michael Salter' <
> michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Jul 8, 2021 12:56 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
>
> I had the tires shaved and balanced and the tech marked each tire as to
> the position the car.  The best were on the front right left and the worst
> were rear right and left.  Did not balance brake drums or anything else.
> Now only a little shake which is acceptable.  Best $200 I ever spent on my
> BJ8, along with the new Michelin 180 tires which cost a little more.
>
> Hard to find a garage which has the equipment.  You need to do an in-depth
> search for Shaving Tires Near Me.  Fortunately, I found a great guy with
> the original equipment 2 hours drive across the state of Florida.  Note,
> you may find garages listed that only have equipment for Truck Tires.
>
> Bob Begani
> Punta Gorda Florida
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Team.net
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 8, 2021 9:26 AM
> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake
>
> Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no
> scuttle shake.
>
>
> On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
>
>
> Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded
> scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake
> "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear
> drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is
> comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove
> slower or faster than these speeds.
>
> What to do------what to do???
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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From healeyrik at gmail.com  Thu Jul  8 19:40:56 2021
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 21:40:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <CADkpZwHLaT5injU1zMvcOLdF5nfEmrRaG8x+dEN582Dqy_pgog@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
 <2110730574.2728420.1625767095180@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CADkpZwHLaT5injU1zMvcOLdF5nfEmrRaG8x+dEN582Dqy_pgog@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZcO=RpQF0O-ALrcxfQzrv2H4RyiFgPswjmKHxPj7njZgg@mail.gmail.com>

When I did the changeover to the Ford V8 I was determined to solve the
scuttle shake problem.  Here's what I did:  New Dayton 72 spokes with
Michelin XaS tires, shaved and balanced by Hendrix.  Rear drum brakes
balanced by Hendrix.  Front suspension totally rebuilt.  Additional
stiffening of the BJ7 by welding in the stiffeners (Keith Pennel
suggestions I think) doghouse while all the fab was going on to widen the
footwells.  Guess what?  I've had it over the ton without a bit of scuttle
shake.  But which one or a combination of the above cured it, I have no
idea.

Happy Healeying,
Rick Neville

<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon>
Virus-free.
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On Thu, Jul 8, 2021 at 8:28 PM Al Fuller <alfuller194 at gmail.com> wrote:

> I had "interesting" conversations with the machine shop the last time I
> had drums balanced... I was in the parts store for something else and asked
> whether their machines could handle drum balance. They patted me on the
> head and said 'you mean turn the drums'. No, I really mean balance.
>
> Machine shop guy says they can handle it, but it's almost impossible the
> drums will need it. I dropped off the drums and waited for the call.
>
> Machine shop guy calls to ask how much clearance between the drum and the
> wheel? Why, I ask? Because the drums are so far out of balance that
> grinding the fins won't work - he needed to weld on weight! There was
> clearance, and the car rides MUCH smoother.
>
> They were amazed. I wasn't surprised a bit.
>
> On Thu, Jul 8, 2021, 1:58 PM llennep--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I have been told for many years that the rear axle housing, brake
>> assemblies etc on these cars are so heavy that any imbalance will not be
>> noticed.  Not so.  I balanced mine and I could feel the difference.  Also
>> balanced a few other drums.  I strongly recommend balancing drums!!!  You
>> will be surprised at how much out of balance some of them are.
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: rfbegani at gmail.com
>> To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>; 'Michael Salter' <
>> michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thu, Jul 8, 2021 12:56 pm
>> Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
>>
>> I had the tires shaved and balanced and the tech marked each tire as to
>> the position the car.  The best were on the front right left and the worst
>> were rear right and left.  Did not balance brake drums or anything else.
>> Now only a little shake which is acceptable.  Best $200 I ever spent on my
>> BJ8, along with the new Michelin 180 tires which cost a little more.
>>
>> Hard to find a garage which has the equipment.  You need to do an
>> in-depth search for Shaving Tires Near Me.  Fortunately, I found a great
>> guy with the original equipment 2 hours drive across the state of Florida.
>> Note, you may find garages listed that only have equipment for Truck Tires.
>>
>> Bob Begani
>> Punta Gorda Florida
>>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Team.net
>> *Sent:* Thursday, July 8, 2021 9:26 AM
>> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> *Cc:* healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake
>>
>> Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no
>> scuttle shake.
>>
>>
>> On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>>
>>
>> Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded
>> scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake
>> "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear
>> drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is
>> comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove
>> slower or faster than these speeds.
>>
>> What to do------what to do???
>>
>> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
>> Tom
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/alfuller194 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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From simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com  Fri Jul  9 04:28:28 2021
From: simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com (Mitch Simmons)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2021 06:28:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <1522491550.56473781.1625766966135.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
 <000f01d7741a$85db6a40$91923ec0$@gmail.com>
 <1522491550.56473781.1625766966135.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <9D4E9E28-FA4B-49B1-BA61-26A8EC9C838E@gmail.com>

I had the brake drums balanced ,new vrendstein tires,new Dayton 60 spoke wheels??..no scuttle shake?smooth as silk (at any speed)
The brake drums (original untouched) were way off balance

Mitch

> On Jul 8, 2021, at 1:56 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
> 
> I have no scuttle shake on my 66 E-Type OTS and it is smooth as silk at all speeds. Why would a Healey or any car be any different? If this was a function of the tires, would'nt we see tires being shaved on many different cars? I have this strange suspicion it is unique to the Healey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>
> To: 'Team.net <http://team.net/>' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com <mailto:lawrence.swift at gmail.com>>, 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>>
> Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Sent: Thu, 08 Jul 2021 12:58:48 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
> 
> https://tinyurl.com/jnd85dvk <https://tinyurl.com/jnd85dvk>   Youtube showing how they do it on the car and the equipment.
> 
>  
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com> <rfbegani at gmail.com <mailto:rfbegani at gmail.com>> 
> Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 12:57 PM
> To: 'Team.net <http://team.net/>' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com <mailto:lawrence.swift at gmail.com>>; 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>>
> Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: "SS" aka--scuttle shake
> 
>  
> I had the tires shaved and balanced and the tech marked each tire as to the position the car.  The best were on the front right left and the worst were rear right and left.  Did not balance brake drums or anything else.  Now only a little shake which is acceptable.  Best $200 I ever spent on my BJ8, along with the new Michelin 180 tires which cost a little more.
> 
>  
> Hard to find a garage which has the equipment.  You need to do an in-depth search for Shaving Tires Near Me.  Fortunately, I found a great guy with the original equipment 2 hours drive across the state of Florida.  Note, you may find garages listed that only have equipment for Truck Tires.
> 
>  
> Bob Begani
> 
> Punta Gorda Florida
> 
>  
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Team.net <http://team.net/>
> Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 9:26 AM
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>>
> Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake
> 
>  
> Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no scuttle shake.
> 
>  
> On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com <mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>> wrote:
> 
> ?
> 
>  
> Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than these speeds.
> 
>  
> What to do------what to do???
> 
>  
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> 
> Tom
> 
>  
>  
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com>
> 

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From sbyers at ec.rr.com  Fri Jul  9 04:52:02 2021
From: sbyers at ec.rr.com (BJ8Healeys)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2021 06:52:02 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <9D4E9E28-FA4B-49B1-BA61-26A8EC9C838E@gmail.com>
References: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
 <000f01d7741a$85db6a40$91923ec0$@gmail.com>
 <1522491550.56473781.1625766966135.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <9D4E9E28-FA4B-49B1-BA61-26A8EC9C838E@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <021f01d774b0$73e061b0$5ba12510$@rr.com>

Allen Hendrix?s theory about why modern cars don?t need shaved tires is that the suspension systems are much better at absorbing the contribution of out-of-round tires to the vibration, and the stiffer unit-construction chassis is also a factor.

 

Steve Byers

HBJ8L/36666

BJ8 Registry

AHCA Delegate at Large

Havelock, NC

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mitch Simmons
Sent: Friday, July 9, 2021 6:28 AM
To: Tom Felts
Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

I had the brake drums balanced ,new vrendstein tires,new Dayton 60 spoke wheels??..no scuttle shake?smooth as silk (at any speed)

The brake drums (original untouched) were way off balance

 

Mitch





On Jul 8, 2021, at 1:56 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

 

I have no scuttle shake on my 66 E-Type OTS and it is smooth as silk at all speeds. Why would a Healey or any car be any different? If this was a function of the tires, would'nt we see tires being shaved on many different cars? I have this strange suspicion it is unique to the Healey.

 

 

 

 

----- Original Message -----
From: rfbegani at gmail.com
To: 'Team.net <http://team.net/> ' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>, 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, 08 Jul 2021 12:58:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

https://tinyurl.com/jnd85dvk   Youtube showing how they do it on the car and the equipment.

 

From: rfbegani at gmail.com <rfbegani at gmail.com> 
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 12:57 PM
To: 'Team.net <http://team.net/> ' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>; 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

I had the tires shaved and balanced and the tech marked each tire as to the position the car.  The best were on the front right left and the worst were rear right and left.  Did not balance brake drums or anything else.  Now only a little shake which is acceptable.  Best $200 I ever spent on my BJ8, along with the new Michelin 180 tires which cost a little more.

 

Hard to find a garage which has the equipment.  You need to do an in-depth search for Shaving Tires Near Me.  Fortunately, I found a great guy with the original equipment 2 hours drive across the state of Florida.  Note, you may find garages listed that only have equipment for Truck Tires.

 

Bob Begani

Punta Gorda Florida

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Team.net <http://team.net/> 
Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2021 9:26 AM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake

 

Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no scuttle shake.

 

On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:

?

 

Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove slower or faster than these speeds.

 

What to do------what to do???

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Tom

 

 

 

_______________________________________________
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Jul  9 06:16:19 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2021 20:16:19 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <1884580018.56060745.1625749214355.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <1884580018.56060745.1625749214355.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+rg1BCwpS3B5ZmAAiMmwBJFTfKOS1zCnu3WW7NTBUihA@mail.gmail.com>

Also scuttle shake at that speed often can be caused by a bouncing tire due
to worn shocks

On Thu, 8 Jul 2021 at 9:01 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:

> Recently (maybe 6 months ago) I installed a new clutch disc and TOB.  (PP
> looked good so didn't add a new one)  Shifts great but when starting the
> car even with it out of gear, it "groans" a second or so when the engine
> starts but goes away and I would only hear it at times when I down
> shifted.  Once hot I never heard it.  Then--------I took a 600 mile trip
> over the last two days.  I began to hear it more and at different
> times---Pushing the clutch in, starting the car and downshifting.  Several
> times I heard what sounded like a "ping" when I pressed the cutch pedal.
>
> I have a hunch it is the PP-----could be one of the fingers got bent when
> installing??  Otherwise, I have no idea.
>
> Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded
> scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake
> "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear
> drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is
> comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove
> slower or faster than these speeds.
>
> What to do------what to do???
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
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From warthodson at aol.com  Fri Jul  9 07:05:15 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2021 13:05:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <01ce01d7744b$de150e10$9a3f2a30$@rr.com>
References: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
 <000f01d7741a$85db6a40$91923ec0$@gmail.com>
 <1522491550.56473781.1625766966135.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <01ce01d7744b$de150e10$9a3f2a30$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <1247284864.4426776.1625835915250@mail.yahoo.com>

I never tried stiffening the frame, but I did have my wire wheels trued & the tires shaved & the the rear drums balanced by Hendrix and it removed all of the shake & vibration.?Gary Hodson


-----Original Message-----
From: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
To: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 8, 2021 5:52 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake

#yiv1879054390 #yiv1879054390 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv1879054390 #yiv1879054390 p.yiv1879054390MsoNormal, #yiv1879054390 li.yiv1879054390MsoNormal, #yiv1879054390 div.yiv1879054390MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New;}#yiv1879054390 a:link, #yiv1879054390 span.yiv1879054390MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1879054390 a:visited, #yiv1879054390 span.yiv1879054390MsoHyperlinkFollowed {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv1879054390 span.yiv1879054390EmailStyle17 {color:#1F497D;}#yiv1879054390 .yiv1879054390MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv1879054390 div.yiv1879054390Section1 {}#yiv1879054390 Well, first of all the structures are different between theE-type and the BJ8.? The purpose of the structural mod to the firewall is tostiffen it to increase its natural vibration frequency.? I did that mod and noticedthe difference, but it didn?t remove all of the shake.? Allen Hendrix did hismagic by balancing and truing the wheels and shaving the tires.? It removedalmost all of the shake, and balancing the drums did the rest.? I considermyself lucky to live close enough to Allen that I can take the car to him whennecessary.  ? Steve Byers HBJ8L/36666 BJ8 Registry AHCA Delegate at Large Havelock, NC?   ? 
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri Jul  9 07:19:09 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2021 21:19:09 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <1247284864.4426776.1625835915250@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
 <000f01d7741a$85db6a40$91923ec0$@gmail.com>
 <1522491550.56473781.1625766966135.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
 <01ce01d7744b$de150e10$9a3f2a30$@rr.com>
 <1247284864.4426776.1625835915250@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+LgF_vSa3nFA9CSxcYYMOYUYackye1gV7xVzGyfLraaA@mail.gmail.com>

Scuttle shake in my experience comes from bouncing tires.  Shaving and
balancing is very good , but my experience is having good shocks is the
easy fix to keep the tires from bouncing around.

On Fri, Jul 9, 2021 at 9:05 PM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I never tried stiffening the frame, but I did have my wire wheels trued &
> the tires shaved & the the rear drums balanced by Hendrix and it removed
> all of the shake & vibration.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BJ8Healeys <sbyers at ec.rr.com>
> To: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Jul 8, 2021 5:52 pm
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
>
> Well, first of all the structures are different between the E-type and the
> BJ8.  The purpose of the structural mod to the firewall is to stiffen it to
> increase its natural vibration frequency.  I did that mod and noticed the
> difference, but it didn?t remove all of the shake.  Allen Hendrix did his
> magic by balancing and truing the wheels and shaving the tires.  It removed
> almost all of the shake, and balancing the drums did the rest.  I consider
> myself lucky to live close enough to Allen that I can take the car to him
> when necessary.
>
> Steve Byers
> HBJ8L/36666
> BJ8 Registry
> AHCA Delegate at Large
> Havelock, NC
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From llennep at verizon.net  Fri Jul  9 13:05:24 2021
From: llennep at verizon.net (llennep at verizon.net)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2021 19:05:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Another sign that we are all doomed not Healey
In-Reply-To: <1707969154.2447202.1625670801772@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1707969154.2447202.1625670801772.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1707969154.2447202.1625670801772@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <725594484.3367306.1625857524676@mail.yahoo.com>


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



How Software Is Eating the Car

The trend toward self-driving and electric vehicles will add hundreds of millions of lines of code to cars. Can the auto industry cope?
By?Robert N. CharettePredictions of lost global vehicle production caused by the?ongoing semiconductor shortage?continue to rise. In January,?analysts forecast?that?1.5 million fewer vehicles would be produced as a result of the shortage; by April that?number had steadily climbed?to more than 2.7 million units, and by May, to?more than 4.1 million units.The semiconductor shortage has underscored not only the?fragility of the automotive supply chain, but placed an intense spotlight on the auto industry?s reliance on the dozens?of concealed computers embedded throughout vehicles today.?No other industry is undergoing as rapid technological change as the auto industry,? says?Zoran Filipi, Chair of the Department of Automotive Engineering at?Clemson University?s International Center for Automotive Research.??This is driven by the need to address impending, evermore stringent CO2?and criteria emission regulations, while sustaining unprecedented rate of progress with development of automation and infotainment, and meeting the customer expectations regarding performance, comfort, and utility.??The coming years will see even greater change, as more auto manufacturers?commit?to phasing out their internal combustion engine (ICE) powered vehicles to meet?global climate-change targets?by?replacing them with electric vehicles?(EVs) that will eventually be?capable of autonomous operation.The past decade of ICE vehicle development illustrates the rapid progress it has made, as well as where it is heading.
?Once, software was a part of the car. Now, software determines the value of a car,? notes?Manfred Broy, emeritus professor of informatics at?Technical University, Munich and a leading expert on software in automobiles.??The success of a car depends on its software much more than the mechanical side.? Nearly all vehicle innovations by auto manufacturers, or original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) as they are called by industry insiders, are now tied to software, he says.Ten years ago, only premium cars contained 100 microprocessor-based electronic control units (ECUs) networked throughout the body of a car, executing 100 million lines of code or more. Today, high-end cars like the BMW 7-series with advanced technology like?advanced driver-assist systems?(ADAS)?may contain?150 ECUs or more, while pick-up trucks like?Ford?s F-150 top 150 million lines of code. Even low-end vehicles?are quickly approaching 100?ECUs and 100 million?of lines of code as more features that were once considered luxury options, such as?adaptive cruise control?and?automatic emergency braking, are becoming standard.Additional safety features that have been mandated since 2010 like?electronic stability control,?backup cameras, and?automatic emergency calling (eCall)?in the EU, as well as more?stringent emission standards?that ICE vehicles?can only meet?using yet more innovative electronics and software, have further driven ECU and software proliferation.Consulting firm?Deloitte Touche Tohmatsu Limited?estimates that as of 2017, some?40% of the cost of a new car?can be attributed to semiconductor-based electronic systems, a cost doubling since 2007. It estimates this total will approach 50% by 2030. The company further predicts that each new car today has about $600 worth of semiconductors packed into it,?consisting of up to?3,000 chips?of all types.Totaling the number of ECUs and lines of software only hints at the intricate electronic orchestration and software choreography found in vehicles today. By observing how they perform together, the extraordinary complexity that is meant to be invisible from a driver?s perspective begins to emerge. New safety, comfort, performance and entertainment features, the commercial imperative to offer scores of options to buyers resulting in a multiplicity of variants for each make and model, and the shift from gasoline and human drivers to electric and artificially intelligent drivers and the hundreds of millions of lines of new code that will need to be written, checked, debugged and secured against hackers, are making cars into supercomputers on wheels and forcing the auto industry to adapt. But can it??
Features?and Variants Drive?Complexity
The drive over the last two decades to provide more safety and entertainment features has transformed automobiles from mere conveyances to mobile computing centers.?Instead of racks of servers and high-speed optical interconnects, ECUs and wiring harnesses communicate?data throughout the vehicle and beyond. And then there are the 10s of millions of lines code that run every time to you go to the grocery store.
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From healeymk3 at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  9 18:39:18 2021
From: healeymk3 at hotmail.com (Laurie Wilford)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 00:39:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Another sign that we are all doomed not Healey
Message-ID: <YTXPR0101MB2205546E010DB16F6F8305AAE6179@YTXPR0101MB2205.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

^^&&;&&::::&^^^;^::^&:^^&?^&;&?:&&**1w1s the w
?^ jvvvjhhhjhbj hiva
The dua2e2Kamloops 3sa
223 21qq read sei 91q 21qq23wa221qq23wa a221geyfg tech
Sent from my Galaxy2szszuy
A3ru

-------- Original message --------
From: llennep--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>66uf67?x
Date: 2021-07-09 3:06 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Another sign that we are all doomed not Healey


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



How Software Is Eating the Car
The trend toward self-driving and electric vehicles will add hundreds of millions of lines of code to cars. Can the auto industry cope?
By Robert N. Charette<https://spectrum.ieee.org/author/robert-n-charette>
Predictions of lost global vehicle production caused by the ongoing semiconductor shortage<https://asia.nikkei.com/Business/Business-Spotlight/How-the-chip-shortage-got-so-bad-and-why-it-s-so-hard-to-fix> continue to rise. In January, analysts forecast<https://www.business-standard.com/article/automobile/world-s-biggest-automakers-suspend-operations-as-chip-supplies-dry-up-121032400488_1.html> that 1.5 million fewer vehicles would be produced as a result of the shortage; by April that number had steadily climbed<https://www.autonews.com/manufacturing/latest-numbers-microchip-shortage-pickups-taking-bigger-hits> to more than 2.7 million units, and by May, to more than 4.1 million units<https://www.autonews.com/manufacturing/plants-big-worry-missing-demand-because-chip-crisis>.
The semiconductor shortage has underscored not only the fragility of the automotive supply chain<https://www.reuters.com/article/us-autos-semiconductors-supply-chain-ins/auto-industry-rethinks-cost-cutting-playbook-as-covid-19-chip-shortages-disrupt-supply-chains-idUSKBN2BO4ZW>, but placed an intense spotlight on the auto industry?s reliance on the dozens of concealed computers embedded throughout vehicles today.
?No other industry is undergoing as rapid technological change as the auto industry,? says Zoran Filipi, Chair of the Department of Automotive Engineering at Clemson University?s International Center for Automotive Research<https://cuicar.com/>. ?This is driven by the need to address impending, evermore stringent CO2 and criteria emission regulations, while sustaining unprecedented rate of progress with development of automation and infotainment, and meeting the customer expectations regarding performance, comfort, and utility.?
The coming years will see even greater change, as more auto manufacturers commit<https://www.caranddriver.com/news/g35562831/ev-plans-automakers-timeline/> to phasing out their internal combustion engine (ICE) powered vehicles to meet global climate-change targets<https://www.automotiveworld.com/news-releases/growing-momentum-global-overview-of-government-targets-for-phasing-out-sales-of-new-internal-combustion-engine-vehicles/> by replacing them with electric vehicles<https://www.caranddriver.com/news/g29994375/future-electric-cars-trucks/> (EVs) that will eventually be capable of autonomous operation<https://www.jdpower.com/cars/shopping-guides/levels-of-autonomous-driving-explained>.
The past decade of ICE vehicle development illustrates the rapid progress it has made, as well as where it is heading.
[Chart titled Vehicle production shortfall due to chip shortage.]
?Once, software was a part of the car. Now, software determines the value of a car,? notes Manfred Broy, emeritus professor of informatics at Technical University<https://www.tum.de/en/>, Munich and a leading expert on software in automobiles. ?The success of a car depends on its software much more than the mechanical side.? Nearly all vehicle innovations by auto manufacturers, or original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) as they are called by industry insiders, are now tied to software, he says.
Ten years ago<https://spectrum.ieee.org/transportation/systems/this-car-runs-on-code>, only premium cars contained 100 microprocessor-based electronic control units (ECUs) networked throughout the body of a car, executing 100 million lines of code or more. Today, high-end cars like the BMW 7-series with advanced technology like advanced driver-assist systems<https://www.caranddriver.com/research/a31880412/adas/> (ADAS) may contain<https://www.embitel.com/blog/embedded-blog/automotive-control-units-development-innovations-mechanical-to-electronics> 150 ECUs or more, while pick-up trucks like Ford?s F-150 top 150 million lines of code<https://cmte.ieee.org/futuredirections/2016/01/13/guess-what-requires-150-million-lines-of-code/>. Even low-end vehicles are quickly approaching 100 ECUs and 100 million of lines of code as more features that were once considered luxury options, such as adaptive cruise control<https://www.motortrend.com/news/adaptive-cruise-control/> and automatic emergency braking<https://www.motortrend.com/news/automatic-emergency-braking/>, are becoming standard.
Additional safety features that have been mandated since 2010 like electronic stability control,<https://mycardoeswhat.org/safety-features/electronic-stability-control/> backup cameras<https://abcnews.go.com/US/cars-us-now-required-backup-cameras/story?id=54854404>, and automatic emergency calling (eCall)<https://etsc.eu/automated-emergency-calling-ecall-now-mandatory-on-new-car-models/#:~:text=Automated%2520emergency%2520calling%2520(eCall)%2520now%2520mandatory%2520on%2520new%2520car%2520models,-April%25203%252C%25202018&text=All%2520new%2520models%2520of%2520car,the%2520event%2520of%2520a%2520collision.&text=The%2520system%2520was%2520launched%2520on%2520Android%2520phones%2520in%25202016.> in the EU, as well as more stringent emission standards<https://theicct.org/sites/default/files/publications/ICCT_Euro6-VI_briefing_jun2016.pdf> that ICE vehicles can only meet<https://autotechreview.com/opinion/guest-commentary/how-software-in-automobiles-helps-curb-pollution> using yet more innovative electronics and software, have further driven ECU and software proliferation.
Consulting firm Deloitte Touche Tohmatsu Limited<https://www2.deloitte.com/global/en.html> estimates that as of 2017, some 40% of the cost of a new car<https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/cn/Documents/technology-media-telecommunications/deloitte-cn-tmt-semiconductors-the-next-wave-en-190422.pdf> can be attributed to semiconductor-based electronic systems, a cost doubling since 2007. It estimates this total will approach 50% by 2030. The company further predicts that each new car today has about $600 worth of semiconductors packed into it, consisting of up to 3,000 chips<https://www.nytimes.com/2021/04/23/business/auto-semiconductors-general-motors-mercedes.html> of all types.
Totaling the number of ECUs and lines of software only hints at the intricate electronic orchestration and software choreography found in vehicles today. By observing how they perform together, the extraordinary complexity that is meant to be invisible from a driver?s perspective begins to emerge. New safety, comfort, performance and entertainment features, the commercial imperative to offer scores of options to buyers resulting in a multiplicity of variants for each make and model, and the shift from gasoline and human drivers to electric and artificially intelligent drivers and the hundreds of millions of lines of new code that will need to be written, checked, debugged and secured against hackers, are making cars into supercomputers on wheels and forcing the auto industry to adapt. But can it?
Features and Variants Drive Complexity
The drive over the last two decades to provide more safety and entertainment features has transformed automobiles from mere conveyances to mobile computing centers. Instead of racks of servers and high-speed optical interconnects, ECUs and wiring harnesses communicate data throughout the vehicle and beyond. And then there are the 10s of millions of lines code that run every time to you go to the grocery store.

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From phoenix722 at comcast.net  Fri Jul  9 19:25:50 2021
From: phoenix722 at comcast.net (Mike Sinclair)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2021 18:25:50 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Another sign that we are all doomed not Healey
In-Reply-To: <YTXPR0101MB2205546E010DB16F6F8305AAE6179@YTXPR0101MB2205.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <YTXPR0101MB2205546E010DB16F6F8305AAE6179@YTXPR0101MB2205.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <2351791f-9576-036f-95f5-420cd542caef@comcast.net>

:)

On 7/9/2021 5:39 PM, Laurie Wilford wrote:
> ^^&&;&&::::&^^^;^::^&:^^&?^&;&?:&&**1w1s the w
> ?^ jvvvjhhhjhbj hiva
> The dua2e2Kamloops 3sa
> 223 21qq read sei 91q 21qq23wa221qq23wa a221geyfg tech
> Sent from my Galaxy2szszuy
> A3ru
>
> -------- Original message --------
>
>     From: llennep--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>66uf67?x
>
> Date: 2021-07-09 3:06 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Another sign that we are all doomed not Healey
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>   How Software Is Eating the Car
>
>
>     The trend toward self-driving and electric vehicles will add
>     hundreds of millions of lines of code to cars. Can the auto
>     industry cope?
>
> By Robert N. Charette <https://spectrum.ieee.org/author/robert-n-charette>
> Predictions of lost global vehicle production caused by the ongoing 
> semiconductor shortage 
> <https://asia.nikkei.com/Business/Business-Spotlight/How-the-chip-shortage-got-so-bad-and-why-it-s-so-hard-to-fix>?continue 
> to rise. In January, analysts forecast 
> <https://www.business-standard.com/article/automobile/world-s-biggest-automakers-suspend-operations-as-chip-supplies-dry-up-121032400488_1.html>?that?1.5 
> million fewer vehicles would be produced as a result of the shortage; 
> by April that number had steadily climbed 
> <https://www.autonews.com/manufacturing/latest-numbers-microchip-shortage-pickups-taking-bigger-hits>?to 
> more than 2.7 million units, and by May, to more than 4.1 million 
> units 
> <https://www.autonews.com/manufacturing/plants-big-worry-missing-demand-because-chip-crisis>.
> The semiconductor shortage has underscored not only the fragility of 
> the automotive supply chain 
> <https://www.reuters.com/article/us-autos-semiconductors-supply-chain-ins/auto-industry-rethinks-cost-cutting-playbook-as-covid-19-chip-shortages-disrupt-supply-chains-idUSKBN2BO4ZW>, 
> but placed an intense spotlight on the auto industry?s reliance on the 
> dozens?of concealed computers embedded throughout vehicles today.
> ?No other industry is undergoing as rapid technological change as the 
> auto industry,? says Zoran Filipi, Chair of the Department of 
> Automotive Engineering at Clemson University?s International Center 
> for Automotive Research <https://cuicar.com/>.??This is driven by the 
> need to address impending, evermore stringent CO2?and criteria 
> emission regulations, while sustaining unprecedented rate of progress 
> with development of automation and infotainment, and meeting the 
> customer expectations regarding performance, comfort, and utility.?
> The coming years will see even greater change, as more auto 
> manufacturers commit 
> <https://www.caranddriver.com/news/g35562831/ev-plans-automakers-timeline/>?to 
> phasing out their internal combustion engine (ICE) powered vehicles to 
> meet global climate-change targets 
> <https://www.automotiveworld.com/news-releases/growing-momentum-global-overview-of-government-targets-for-phasing-out-sales-of-new-internal-combustion-engine-vehicles/>?by 
> replacing them with electric vehicles 
> <https://www.caranddriver.com/news/g29994375/future-electric-cars-trucks/>?(EVs) 
> that will eventually be capable of autonomous operation 
> <https://www.jdpower.com/cars/shopping-guides/levels-of-autonomous-driving-explained>.
> The past decade of ICE vehicle development illustrates the rapid 
> progress it has made, as well as where it is heading.
> Chart titled Vehicle production shortfall due to chip shortage.
> ?Once, software was a part of the car. Now, software determines the 
> value of a car,? notes Manfred Broy, emeritus professor of informatics 
> at Technical University <https://www.tum.de/en/>, Munich and a leading 
> expert on software in automobiles.??The success of a car depends on 
> its software much more than the mechanical side.? Nearly all vehicle 
> innovations by auto manufacturers, or original equipment manufacturers 
> (OEMs) as they are called by industry insiders, are now tied to 
> software, he says.
> Ten years ago 
> <https://spectrum.ieee.org/transportation/systems/this-car-runs-on-code>, 
> only premium cars contained 100 microprocessor-based electronic 
> control units (ECUs) networked throughout the body of a car, executing 
> 100 million lines of code or more. Today, high-end cars like the BMW 
> 7-series with advanced technology like advanced driver-assist systems 
> <https://www.caranddriver.com/research/a31880412/adas/>?(ADAS) may 
> contain 
> <https://www.embitel.com/blog/embedded-blog/automotive-control-units-development-innovations-mechanical-to-electronics>?150 
> ECUs or more, while pick-up trucks like Ford?s F-150 top 150 million 
> lines of code 
> <https://cmte.ieee.org/futuredirections/2016/01/13/guess-what-requires-150-million-lines-of-code/>. 
> Even low-end vehicles?are quickly approaching 100?ECUs and 100 
> million?of lines of code as more features that were once considered 
> luxury options, such as adaptive cruise control 
> <https://www.motortrend.com/news/adaptive-cruise-control/>?and 
> automatic emergency braking 
> <https://www.motortrend.com/news/automatic-emergency-braking/>, are 
> becoming standard.
> Additional safety features that have been mandated since 2010 like 
> electronic stability control, 
> <https://mycardoeswhat.org/safety-features/electronic-stability-control/> 
> backup cameras 
> <https://abcnews.go.com/US/cars-us-now-required-backup-cameras/story?id=54854404>, 
> and automatic emergency calling (eCall) 
> <https://etsc.eu/automated-emergency-calling-ecall-now-mandatory-on-new-car-models/#:~:text=Automated%2520emergency%2520calling%2520(eCall)%2520now%2520mandatory%2520on%2520new%2520car%2520models,-April%25203%252C%25202018&text=All%2520new%2520models%2520of%2520car,the%2520event%2520of%2520a%2520collision.&text=The%2520system%2520was%2520launched%2520on%2520Android%2520phones%2520in%25202016.>?in 
> the EU, as well as more stringent emission standards 
> <https://theicct.org/sites/default/files/publications/ICCT_Euro6-VI_briefing_jun2016.pdf>?that 
> ICE vehicles can only meet 
> <https://autotechreview.com/opinion/guest-commentary/how-software-in-automobiles-helps-curb-pollution>?using 
> yet more innovative electronics and software, have further driven ECU 
> and software proliferation.
> Consulting firm Deloitte Touche Tohmatsu Limited 
> <https://www2.deloitte.com/global/en.html>?estimates that as of 2017, 
> some 40% of the cost of a new car 
> <https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/cn/Documents/technology-media-telecommunications/deloitte-cn-tmt-semiconductors-the-next-wave-en-190422.pdf>?can 
> be attributed to semiconductor-based electronic systems, a cost 
> doubling since 2007. It estimates this total will approach 50% by 
> 2030. The company further predicts that each new car today has about 
> $600 worth of semiconductors packed into it, consisting of up to?3,000 
> chips 
> <https://www.nytimes.com/2021/04/23/business/auto-semiconductors-general-motors-mercedes.html>?of 
> all types.
> Totaling the number of ECUs and lines of software only hints at the 
> intricate electronic orchestration and software choreography found in 
> vehicles today. By observing how they perform together, the 
> extraordinary complexity that is meant to be invisible from a driver?s 
> perspective begins to emerge. New safety, comfort, performance and 
> entertainment features, the commercial imperative to offer scores of 
> options to buyers resulting in a multiplicity of variants for each 
> make and model, and the shift from gasoline and human drivers to 
> electric and artificially intelligent drivers and the hundreds of 
> millions of lines of new code that will need to be written, checked, 
> debugged and secured against hackers, are making cars into 
> supercomputers on wheels and forcing the auto industry to adapt. But 
> can it?
>
>
>       Features?and Variants Drive?Complexity
>
> The drive over the last two decades to provide more safety and 
> entertainment features has transformed automobiles from mere 
> conveyances to mobile computing centers.?Instead of racks of servers 
> and high-speed optical interconnects, ECUs and wiring harnesses 
> communicate?data throughout the vehicle and beyond. And then there are 
> the 10s of millions of lines code that run every time to you go to the 
> grocery store.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/phoenix722 at comcast.net
>
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Fri Jul  9 19:42:35 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Fri, 9 Jul 2021 21:42:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Another sign that we are all doomed not Healey
In-Reply-To: <725594484.3367306.1625857524676@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1707969154.2447202.1625670801772.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1707969154.2447202.1625670801772@mail.yahoo.com>
 <725594484.3367306.1625857524676@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <015201d7752c$dbad0880$93071980$@sympatico.ca>

Interesting clip,  here is a perspective from my IT-savvy son, who also likes old simple stuff like Healeys:

 

?Interesting for sure. Technology is weird in that the R&D is so expensive, but the 'magic' then becomes very inexpensive at scale. So features that are considered premium and costly are only so for a short time, then they are standard and inexpensive. This puts the auto industry on a similar treadmill as other tech industries, where the consumer appetite and expectation of novelty becomes a formula the industry needs to solve both technically and financially.?

 

?Wariness of "millions of lines of code" is a bit silly though. The rest of the world has been largely governed by software for decades. I couldn't guess how many 'lines of code' are executed for a single stock trade or eBay purchase. This is just auto catching up. Mechanics are, to most people, wizards who make the vehicle work; which will continue to be true. It's just that we will now have an additional order of that clergy to minister to the flashy bits too.?

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of llennep--- via Healeys
Sent: July 9, 2021 3:05 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: [Healeys] Another sign that we are all doomed not Healey

 

 

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

 

 


How Software Is Eating the Car


The trend toward self-driving and electric vehicles will add hundreds of millions of lines of code to cars. Can the auto industry cope?


By  <https://spectrum.ieee.org/author/robert-n-charette> Robert N. Charette

Predictions of lost global vehicle production caused by the  <https://asia.nikkei.com/Business/Business-Spotlight/How-the-chip-shortage-got-so-bad-and-why-it-s-so-hard-to-fix> ongoing semiconductor shortage continue to rise. In January,  <https://www.business-standard.com/article/automobile/world-s-biggest-automakers-suspend-operations-as-chip-supplies-dry-up-121032400488_1.html> analysts forecast that 1.5 million fewer vehicles would be produced as a result of the shortage; by April that  <https://www.autonews.com/manufacturing/latest-numbers-microchip-shortage-pickups-taking-bigger-hits> number had steadily climbed to more than 2.7 million units, and by May, to  <https://www.autonews.com/manufacturing/plants-big-worry-missing-demand-because-chip-crisis> more than 4.1 million units.

The semiconductor shortage has underscored not only the  <https://www.reuters.com/article/us-autos-semiconductors-supply-chain-ins/auto-industry-rethinks-cost-cutting-playbook-as-covid-19-chip-shortages-disrupt-supply-chains-idUSKBN2BO4ZW> fragility of the automotive supply chain, but placed an intense spotlight on the auto industry?s reliance on the dozens of concealed computers embedded throughout vehicles today.

?No other industry is undergoing as rapid technological change as the auto industry,? says Zoran Filipi, Chair of the Department of Automotive Engineering at  <https://cuicar.com/> Clemson University?s International Center for Automotive Research. ?This is driven by the need to address impending, evermore stringent CO2 and criteria emission regulations, while sustaining unprecedented rate of progress with development of automation and infotainment, and meeting the customer expectations regarding performance, comfort, and utility.? 

The coming years will see even greater change, as more auto manufacturers  <https://www.caranddriver.com/news/g35562831/ev-plans-automakers-timeline/> commit to phasing out their internal combustion engine (ICE) powered vehicles to meet  <https://www.automotiveworld.com/news-releases/growing-momentum-global-overview-of-government-targets-for-phasing-out-sales-of-new-internal-combustion-engine-vehicles/> global climate-change targets by  <https://www.caranddriver.com/news/g29994375/future-electric-cars-trucks/> replacing them with electric vehicles (EVs) that will eventually be  <https://www.jdpower.com/cars/shopping-guides/levels-of-autonomous-driving-explained> capable of autonomous operation.

The past decade of ICE vehicle development illustrates the rapid progress it has made, as well as where it is heading.



?Once, software was a part of the car. Now, software determines the value of a car,? notes Manfred Broy, emeritus professor of informatics at  <https://www.tum.de/en/> Technical University, Munich and a leading expert on software in automobiles. ?The success of a car depends on its software much more than the mechanical side.? Nearly all vehicle innovations by auto manufacturers, or original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) as they are called by industry insiders, are now tied to software, he says.

 <https://spectrum.ieee.org/transportation/systems/this-car-runs-on-code> Ten years ago, only premium cars contained 100 microprocessor-based electronic control units (ECUs) networked throughout the body of a car, executing 100 million lines of code or more. Today, high-end cars like the BMW 7-series with advanced technology like  <https://www.caranddriver.com/research/a31880412/adas/> advanced driver-assist systems (ADAS)  <https://www.embitel.com/blog/embedded-blog/automotive-control-units-development-innovations-mechanical-to-electronics> may contain 150 ECUs or more, while pick-up trucks like  <https://cmte.ieee.org/futuredirections/2016/01/13/guess-what-requires-150-million-lines-of-code/> Ford?s F-150 top 150 million lines of code. Even low-end vehicles are quickly approaching 100 ECUs and 100 million of lines of code as more features that were once considered luxury options, such as  <https://www.motortrend.com/news/adaptive-cruise-control/> adaptive cruise control and  <https://www.motortrend.com/news/automatic-emergency-braking/> automatic emergency braking, are becoming standard.

Additional safety features that have been mandated since 2010 like  <https://mycardoeswhat.org/safety-features/electronic-stability-control/> electronic stability control,  <https://abcnews.go.com/US/cars-us-now-required-backup-cameras/story?id=54854404> backup cameras, and  <https://etsc.eu/automated-emergency-calling-ecall-now-mandatory-on-new-car-models/#:~:text=Automated%2520emergency%2520calling%2520(eCall)%2520now%2520mandatory%2520on%2520new%2520car%2520models,-April%25203%252C%25202018&text=All%2520new%2520models%2520of%2520car,the%2520event%2520of%2520a%2520collision.&text=The%2520system%2520was%2520launched%2520on%2520Android%2520phones%2520in%25202016.> automatic emergency calling (eCall) in the EU, as well as more  <https://theicct.org/sites/default/files/publications/ICCT_Euro6-VI_briefing_jun2016.pdf> stringent emission standards that ICE vehicles  <https://autotechreview.com/opinion/guest-commentary/how-software-in-automobiles-helps-curb-pollution> can only meet using yet more innovative electronics and software, have further driven ECU and software proliferation.

Consulting firm  <https://www2.deloitte.com/global/en.html> Deloitte Touche Tohmatsu Limited estimates that as of 2017, some  <https://www2.deloitte.com/content/dam/Deloitte/cn/Documents/technology-media-telecommunications/deloitte-cn-tmt-semiconductors-the-next-wave-en-190422.pdf> 40% of the cost of a new car can be attributed to semiconductor-based electronic systems, a cost doubling since 2007. It estimates this total will approach 50% by 2030. The company further predicts that each new car today has about $600 worth of semiconductors packed into it,  <https://www.nytimes.com/2021/04/23/business/auto-semiconductors-general-motors-mercedes.html> consisting of up to 3,000 chips of all types.

Totaling the number of ECUs and lines of software only hints at the intricate electronic orchestration and software choreography found in vehicles today. By observing how they perform together, the extraordinary complexity that is meant to be invisible from a driver?s perspective begins to emerge. New safety, comfort, performance and entertainment features, the commercial imperative to offer scores of options to buyers resulting in a multiplicity of variants for each make and model, and the shift from gasoline and human drivers to electric and artificially intelligent drivers and the hundreds of millions of lines of new code that will need to be written, checked, debugged and secured against hackers, are making cars into supercomputers on wheels and forcing the auto industry to adapt. But can it? 


Features and Variants Drive Complexity


The drive over the last two decades to provide more safety and entertainment features has transformed automobiles from mere conveyances to mobile computing centers. Instead of racks of servers and high-speed optical interconnects, ECUs and wiring harnesses communicate data throughout the vehicle and beyond. And then there are the 10s of millions of lines code that run every time to you go to the grocery store.

 

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Jul 10 17:39:29 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 19:39:29 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder extension for the Sprite
Message-ID: <f1f9f8a2-3c93-d8ba-ad01-c79f89e17e93@earthlink.net>

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From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sat Jul 10 19:02:39 2021
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 21:02:39 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder extension for the Sprite
In-Reply-To: <f1f9f8a2-3c93-d8ba-ad01-c79f89e17e93@earthlink.net>
References: <f1f9f8a2-3c93-d8ba-ad01-c79f89e17e93@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4A591597-1F37-4265-8D44-4A4F33809817@mac.com>

I have one, Bob. Will send along a photo.
Lin

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 10, 2021, at 7:40 PM, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> ? Listers,
> 
> I understand from a response to my 6 cylinder clutch bleeder extension ad on the British Car Forum that Doug Reid also produced one for the Sprite.  I've not seen one.  Can anyone provide a picture and/or details?  Work well?
>   
> Cheers,
> 
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com
> 
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From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sat Jul 10 19:07:04 2021
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 21:07:04 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Clutch bleeder extension for the Sprite
In-Reply-To: <f1f9f8a2-3c93-d8ba-ad01-c79f89e17e93@earthlink.net>
References: <f1f9f8a2-3c93-d8ba-ad01-c79f89e17e93@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <97B4C81E-B833-4DA1-829B-320021CDC610@mac.com>

Bob,
Here you go:



Lin
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 10, 2021, at 7:40 PM, Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net> wrote:
> 
> ? Listers,
> 
> I understand from a response to my 6 cylinder clutch bleeder extension ad on the British Car Forum that Doug Reid also produced one for the Sprite.  I've not seen one.  Can anyone provide a picture and/or details?  Work well?
>   
> Cheers,
> 
> Bob Haskell
> Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/linwoodrose at mac.com
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 10 20:07:08 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 19:07:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Exhausting Problem
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEON86+BnPh5zc+KdsHgxn=LW9w6YMpgLXHvJrkbrNPStyg@mail.gmail.com>

Can someone give me a measurement of the front pipe from the flange to the
end that slips on to the muffler of a 100?  I bought a muffler and a tail
pipe new, but a used front pipe was given to me.  This front pipe seems to
have been welded to the muffler in the past and was cut off just aft of the
weld.  I would like to send the front pipe to Jet Hot for coating, but I
need to cut it to the correct length.  I'm not sure that is even a good
idea with the flexible section in the pipe.  Would the coating crack in
this area.  How much flexing does it do?  The exhaust manifold is already
ceramic coated.  Just trying to keep the inevitable heat down in the engine
bay.
Mike MacLean
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From healeymanjim at hansencc.net  Sat Jul 10 20:52:37 2021
From: healeymanjim at hansencc.net (=?utf-8?Q?healeymanjim?=)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 19:52:37 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] =?utf-8?q?o/d?=
Message-ID: <20210711025237.27993.qmail@server278.com>

for a few months i have been struggling with an overdrive that fails to engage with the solenoid (new one) but will engage if 
i push on the right side setting  lever.  made many different adjustments and none worked.  solenoid will instantly lift the 
left side adjusting arm as long as there is no oil pressure.  it will not lift the adjustment arm more than a few millimeters 
when car is moving.  we had removed the solenoid bracket and replaced a gasket.  not sure what could have happened but 
trans and o/d are now separated on my workbench and i can see nothing wrong anywhere.  checked and reseated ball on 
oil pump and found no grit or dirt.  small accumulator piston moves up and down inside housing assembly.  there were no 
problems with overdrive until gasket change.   any help appreciated.

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat Jul 10 21:10:19 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 23:10:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] o/d
In-Reply-To: <20210711025237.27993.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20210711025237.27993.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B56FhpYWvOu0=2AMbW4hxN5LudPZXGA8esPWn2ebPhUcQ@mail.gmail.com>

Did you test the solenoid on the bench?  How does it act there?

Best-Michael Oritt

On Sat, Jul 10, 2021, 10:52 PM healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net>
wrote:

> for a few months i have been struggling with an overdrive that fails to
> engage with the solenoid (new one) but will engage if
> i push on the right side setting  lever.  made many different adjustments
> and none worked.  solenoid will instantly lift the
> left side adjusting arm as long as there is no oil pressure.  it will not
> lift the adjustment arm more than a few millimeters
> when car is moving.  we had removed the solenoid bracket and replaced a
> gasket.  not sure what could have happened but
> trans and o/d are now separated on my workbench and i can see nothing
> wrong anywhere.  checked and reseated ball on
> oil pump and found no grit or dirt.  small accumulator piston moves up and
> down inside housing assembly.  there were no
> problems with overdrive until gasket change.   any help appreciated.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul 10 21:32:24 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 20:32:24 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] o/d
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B56FhpYWvOu0=2AMbW4hxN5LudPZXGA8esPWn2ebPhUcQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20210711025237.27993.qmail@server278.com>
 <CAPTa0B56FhpYWvOu0=2AMbW4hxN5LudPZXGA8esPWn2ebPhUcQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <afb891d5-12cc-94c9-256b-d20a2dfcd4df@comcast.net>

If the lever from the solenoid to the operating shaft--the one with the 
cam that actuates the valve--wasn't cinched down properly it could cause 
the symptoms you describe. I've never been entirely comfortable with 
this type of arrangement, where you have a pinch-type clamp on a shaft 
with no flat spots or splines to prevent slippage (I guess it works well 
enough most of the time). I've seen instances where the bolt on the 
clamp bottomed-out before the clamp was secure (note the 'test' lever on 
the right side has a pin through it).

We're spitballing here, right?


On 7/10/2021 8:10 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
> Did you test the solenoid on the bench?? How does it act there?
>
> Best-Michael Oritt
>
> On Sat, Jul 10, 2021, 10:52 PM healeymanjim <healeymanjim at hansencc.net 
> <mailto:healeymanjim at hansencc.net>> wrote:
>
>     for a few months i have been struggling with an overdrive that
>     fails to engage with the solenoid (new one) but will engage if
>     i push on the right side setting? lever.? made many different
>     adjustments and none worked.? solenoid will instantly lift the
>     left side adjusting arm as long as there is no oil pressure. it
>     will not lift the adjustment arm more than a few millimeters
>     when car is moving.? we had removed the solenoid bracket and
>     replaced a gasket.? not sure what could have happened but
>     trans and o/d are now separated on my workbench and i can see
>     nothing wrong anywhere.? checked and reseated ball on
>     oil pump and found no grit or dirt.? small accumulator piston
>     moves up and down inside housing assembly.? there were no
>     problems with overdrive until gasket change.? ?any help appreciated.
>

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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 10 21:57:47 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2021 20:57:47 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft Nut
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOMus5qX2bsz9vLB5SpN-De_9qjFb6Y=+2mECL2hcWiyJw@mail.gmail.com>

I can't seem to find the torque setting for the crankshaft nut at the
pulley for my BN2.
Mike MacLean
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 02:25:19 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 04:25:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft Nut
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOMus5qX2bsz9vLB5SpN-De_9qjFb6Y=+2mECL2hcWiyJw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMus5qX2bsz9vLB5SpN-De_9qjFb6Y=+2mECL2hcWiyJw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+Q_Wy+O=5Z1xqNGwgOH2LKtb72EB9iZ=uUGadBFRZ+6w@mail.gmail.com>

I don't think a torque is specified for that nut.
The factory tool is a "slugging wrench"
[image: image.png]
so very tight is what is required.
M

On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 11:59 PM Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I can't seem to find the torque setting for the crankshaft nut at the
> pulley for my BN2.
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sun Jul 11 06:06:40 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 08:06:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] o/d
In-Reply-To: <20210711025237.27993.qmail@server278.com>
References: <20210711025237.27993.qmail@server278.com>
Message-ID: <9111cf79-9f35-563a-c5ee-d50e891d63f3@earthlink.net>

The overdrive solenoid has two coils.? A powerful one to engage the 
overdrive and a holding one that just keeps it engaged. When properly 
adjusted, the solenoid's plunger will open the switch under the rubber 
boot to disengage the first coil as it will burn out if energized for 
too long. I wonder if the first coil is burned out.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/10/21 10:52 PM, healeymanjim wrote:
> for a few months i have been struggling with an overdrive that fails to engage with the solenoid (new one) but will engage if
> i push on the right side setting  lever.  made many different adjustments and none worked.  solenoid will instantly lift the
> left side adjusting arm as long as there is no oil pressure.  it will not lift the adjustment arm more than a few millimeters
> when car is moving.  we had removed the solenoid bracket and replaced a gasket.  not sure what could have happened but
> trans and o/d are now separated on my workbench and i can see nothing wrong anywhere.  checked and reseated ball on
> oil pump and found no grit or dirt.  small accumulator piston moves up and down inside housing assembly.  there were no
> problems with overdrive until gasket change.   any help appreciated.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Jul 11 11:21:59 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 17:21:59 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] o/d not engaging
Message-ID: <cb0e587c4565d61c2de8fdf2752f5a57856a4558@webmail>

First thing I would do is swap out the "new" solenoid for another, to
see if the unit works properly. It sounds like this one is wimpy.
When you say gasket replacement, I'm assuming that you mean the gasket
between the side cover and the body. The solenoid has no gasket and
adding one would create a problem. The side cover gasket is not very
thick, so use sealant to prevent any leaks. (also replace o-ring).
Other than that, there is no reason that the gasket replacement would
affect the operation, providing the accumulator parts are assembled
correctly, and are in good working order.
Four hundred pounds of pressure is needed to overcome the 8 springs
which keep the unit in direct drive. Any less will not shift properly.
Now carefully read and adjust the solenoid position as described in
the manual. When adjusted, the lever only moves about 1/16" to engage
OD. Regards, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "healeymanjim" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday July 10 2021 7:53:21PM
Subject: [Healeys] o/d

 for a few months i have been struggling with an overdrive that fails
to engage with the solenoid (new one) but will engage if
 i push on the right side setting lever. made many different
adjustments and none worked. solenoid will instantly lift the
 left side adjusting arm as long as there is no oil pressure. it will
not lift the adjustment arm more than a few millimeters
 when car is moving. we had removed the solenoid bracket and replaced
a gasket. not sure what could have happened but
 trans and o/d are now separated on my workbench and i can see nothing
wrong anywhere. checked and reseated ball on
 oil pump and found no grit or dirt. small accumulator piston moves up
and down inside housing assembly. there were no
 problems with overdrive until gasket change. any help appreciated.
 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 /> Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [1]
http://autox.team.net/archive
 />
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 />
 Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net
 />
 

Links:
------
[1] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun Jul 11 11:27:04 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 17:27:04 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft Nut
Message-ID: <463bc36a68e76e065ee8e43ae37b49c94a380e06@webmail>

Michael-there is none. Use a big 1-1/2" wrench and tighten to a good
100lbs...tight. then bend the tab washer flat to hold the position.
Lock the crank with a block of wood (pan off) while tightening. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Michael MacLean" 
To: "Ahealey help"
Cc: 
Sent: Saturday July 10 2021 9:00:15PM
Subject: [Healeys] Crankshaft Nut

 I can't seem to find the torque setting for the crankshaft nut at the
pulley for my BN2. Mike MacLean
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 12:25:15 2021
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 19:25:15 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] o/d not engaging
In-Reply-To: <cb0e587c4565d61c2de8fdf2752f5a57856a4558@webmail>
References: <cb0e587c4565d61c2de8fdf2752f5a57856a4558@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLW_VXZrQPyqOFAMEXgpKq3t+UOaxcGBK89mj-bUjt0qqA@mail.gmail.com>

Hank

On the open type of mechanism the bottom rubber stop often rots away in oil
and allows the solenoid armature to drop too low for the heavy current
solenoid coil to lift it up to the point where the heavy coil is no longer
connected.

There are situations where the armature will not lift until the car goes
over a bump. This is sometimes the reason why overdrives can come in
erratically.

One can replace the bottom rubber stop but a more reliable cure is to tap
and thread in a small bolt in its place and then adjust it in the same way
as it is explained in the enclosed version.

Best regards

On Sun, 11 Jul 2021 at 18:23, Henry G Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> First thing I would do is swap out the "new" solenoid for another, to see
> if the unit works properly.  It sounds like this one is wimpy.
>
> When you say gasket replacement, I'm assuming that you mean the gasket
> between the side cover and the body.  The solenoid has no gasket and adding
> one would create a problem. The side cover gasket is not very thick, so
> use sealant to prevent any leaks. (also replace o-ring).  Other than that,
> there is no reason that the gasket replacement would affect the operation,
> providing the accumulator parts are assembled correctly, and are in good
> working order.
>
> Four hundred pounds of pressure is needed to overcome the 8 springs which
> keep the unit in direct drive. Any less will not shift properly.
>
> Now carefully read and adjust the solenoid position as described in the
> manual. When adjusted, the lever only moves about 1/16" to engage OD.
> Regards, Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "healeymanjim"
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
> Cc:
> Sent: Saturday July 10 2021 7:53:21PM
> Subject: [Healeys] o/d
>
> for a few months i have been struggling with an overdrive that fails to
> engage with the solenoid (new one) but will engage if
> i push on the right side setting lever. made many different adjustments
> and none worked. solenoid will instantly lift the
> left side adjusting arm as long as there is no oil pressure. it will not
> lift the adjustment arm more than a few millimeters
> when car is moving. we had removed the solenoid bracket and replaced a
> gasket. not sure what could have happened but
> trans and o/d are now separated on my workbench and i can see nothing
> wrong anywhere. checked and reseated ball on
> oil pump and found no grit or dirt. small accumulator piston moves up and
> down inside housing assembly. there were no
> problems with overdrive until gasket change. any help appreciated.
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> /> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: <http://www.team.net/donate.html%3Cbr>
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> />
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> <http://autox.team.net/archive%3Cbr>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> />
> Unsubscribe/Manage: <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys%3Cbr>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gradea1 at charter.net
> />
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> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 14:22:07 2021
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 16:22:07 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hot & Cold Brake Wires
Message-ID: <618226AC-AAE8-4738-BAC2-96D4A1ABC38B@gmail.com>

Is there a ?hot? or ?cold? side to the wiring of the brake switch in a 67 BJ8.  I can see there are two wires to the switch, Green and Green/Purple.  I presume the current enters the switch off of one wire and leaves the switch off the other.  I would guess the current comes to the switch from the green wire and exits via the green/purple, but its only a guess.  Further the ?hot? side, I?d guess, is the one that takes the current to the switch (green.)

Is my thinking correct, wrong or neither, i.e., there is no hot or cold side.  Thank you for your input. 

Price Lindsay

Sent from my iPad

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 14:41:23 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 16:41:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hot & Cold Brake Wires
In-Reply-To: <618226AC-AAE8-4738-BAC2-96D4A1ABC38B@gmail.com>
References: <618226AC-AAE8-4738-BAC2-96D4A1ABC38B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLP=_5XemHWP6KYD-yB5pGS+3a-PasK3u+c_2K9xk2Y-w@mail.gmail.com>

You are correct.  The live side is the solid green. Live with ignition on.

M

On Sun., Jul. 11, 2021, 4:22 p.m. R. Lindsay via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Is there a ?hot? or ?cold? side to the wiring of the brake switch in a 67
> BJ8.  I can see there are two wires to the switch, Green and Green/Purple.
> I presume the current enters the switch off of one wire and leaves the
> switch off the other.  I would guess the current comes to the switch from
> the green wire and exits via the green/purple, but its only a guess.
> Further the ?hot? side, I?d guess, is the one that takes the current to the
> switch (green.)
>
> Is my thinking correct, wrong or neither, i.e., there is no hot or cold
> side.  Thank you for your input.
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
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From eps2660 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 14:52:57 2021
From: eps2660 at gmail.com (Elton S)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 16:52:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hot & Cold Brake Wires
In-Reply-To: <618226AC-AAE8-4738-BAC2-96D4A1ABC38B@gmail.com>
References: <618226AC-AAE8-4738-BAC2-96D4A1ABC38B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFKLAdiQb_VBBRgi7+LHdMHqJ+oXYCNWp4jEQYD4g+q9_Pxr7Q@mail.gmail.com>

 According to the wiring diagram, the green-purple goes to the brakelights.
The green comes from the fusebox.
Elton

On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 4:22 PM R. Lindsay via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Is there a ?hot? or ?cold? side to the wiring of the brake switch in a 67
> BJ8.  I can see there are two wires to the switch, Green and Green/Purple.
> I presume the current enters the switch off of one wire and leaves the
> switch off the other.  I would guess the current comes to the switch from
> the green wire and exits via the green/purple, but its only a guess.
> Further the ?hot? side, I?d guess, is the one that takes the current to the
> switch (green.)
>
> Is my thinking correct, wrong or neither, i.e., there is no hot or cold
> side.  Thank you for your input.
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>
>
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul 11 15:21:25 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 14:21:25 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Hot & Cold Brake Wires
In-Reply-To: <CAFKLAdiQb_VBBRgi7+LHdMHqJ+oXYCNWp4jEQYD4g+q9_Pxr7Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <618226AC-AAE8-4738-BAC2-96D4A1ABC38B@gmail.com>
 <CAFKLAdiQb_VBBRgi7+LHdMHqJ+oXYCNWp4jEQYD4g+q9_Pxr7Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <12f3d4b7-b875-e688-f081-0266acde22a1@comcast.net>

Matters not to the switch, though.

On 7/11/2021 1:52 PM, Elton S via Healeys wrote:
> ?According to the wiring diagram, the green-purple goes to the 
> brakelights. The green comes from the fusebox.
> Elton
>
> On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 4:22 PM R. Lindsay via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Is there a ?hot? or ?cold? side to the wiring of the brake switch
>     in a 67 BJ8.? I can see there are two wires to the switch, Green
>     and Green/Purple.? I presume the current enters the switch off of
>     one wire and leaves the switch off the other.? I would guess the
>     current comes to the switch from the green wire and exits via the
>     green/purple, but its only a guess. Further the ?hot? side, I?d
>     guess, is the one that takes the current to the switch (green.)
>
>     Is my thinking correct, wrong or neither, i.e., there is no hot or
>     cold side.? Thank you for your input.
>
>     Price Lindsay
>

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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 16:35:08 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 15:35:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Generator
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOOBYYrNMgU-VkfAdZY-oWrmDh4Yu5+XbxVVUiV=3oGEtQ@mail.gmail.com>

I had the generator for my BN2 rebuilt by a well established shop with
experience in British cars since the 50s.  One thing they could not tell me
was about the rear bearing lubricator.  My generator came with a flush
threaded plug where a brass greas filled cup (with a spring and felt pad)
is on my 60 Bugeye generator.  One of the listers here was kind enough to
provide a brass screw in lubricator cup for my generator.  My question is
whether the flush plug or the Grease filled cup is correct for a 56 BN2
generator?
Mike MacLean
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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 16:38:11 2021
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 18:38:11 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hot & Cold Brake Wires
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLP=_5XemHWP6KYD-yB5pGS+3a-PasK3u+c_2K9xk2Y-w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLP=_5XemHWP6KYD-yB5pGS+3a-PasK3u+c_2K9xk2Y-w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9A9130D7-6002-4DF4-9F61-428515CB439E@gmail.com>

Thanks Michael. 

Price Lindsay

Cell: 630-841-6300
Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 11, 2021, at 4:41 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> You are correct.  The live side is the solid green. Live with ignition on.
> 
> M
> 
>> On Sun., Jul. 11, 2021, 4:22 p.m. R. Lindsay via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> Is there a ?hot? or ?cold? side to the wiring of the brake switch in a 67 BJ8.  I can see there are two wires to the switch, Green and Green/Purple.  I presume the current enters the switch off of one wire and leaves the switch off the other.  I would guess the current comes to the switch from the green wire and exits via the green/purple, but its only a guess.  Further the ?hot? side, I?d guess, is the one that takes the current to the switch (green.)
>> 
>> Is my thinking correct, wrong or neither, i.e., there is no hot or cold side.  Thank you for your input. 
>> 
>> Price Lindsay
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>> 
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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 16:39:00 2021
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 18:39:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hot & Cold Brake Wires
In-Reply-To: <CAFKLAdiQb_VBBRgi7+LHdMHqJ+oXYCNWp4jEQYD4g+q9_Pxr7Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFKLAdiQb_VBBRgi7+LHdMHqJ+oXYCNWp4jEQYD4g+q9_Pxr7Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2489F367-257B-4410-A8D2-43767A7DF49B@gmail.com>

Thank you. 

Price Lindsay

Cell: 630-841-6300
Email: 050.rpl at gmail.com

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 11, 2021, at 4:53 PM, Elton S <eps2660 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
>  According to the wiring diagram, the green-purple goes to the brakelights. The green comes from the fusebox.
> Elton
> 
>> On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 4:22 PM R. Lindsay via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> Is there a ?hot? or ?cold? side to the wiring of the brake switch in a 67 BJ8.  I can see there are two wires to the switch, Green and Green/Purple.  I presume the current enters the switch off of one wire and leaves the switch off the other.  I would guess the current comes to the switch from the green wire and exits via the green/purple, but its only a guess.  Further the ?hot? side, I?d guess, is the one that takes the current to the switch (green.)
>> 
>> Is my thinking correct, wrong or neither, i.e., there is no hot or cold side.  Thank you for your input. 
>> 
>> Price Lindsay
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>> 
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 17:15:47 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 19:15:47 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hot & Cold Brake Wires
In-Reply-To: <618226AC-AAE8-4738-BAC2-96D4A1ABC38B@gmail.com>
References: <618226AC-AAE8-4738-BAC2-96D4A1ABC38B@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4bapvT-mui8psAiu5MphFwS4X+T1Ug26P+QtYQVp9yaw@mail.gmail.com>

There's no "hot" or "cold" side.  It's just a pressure switch and can be
oriented wherever it comes "tight" against the threads.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 4:22 PM R. Lindsay via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Is there a ?hot? or ?cold? side to the wiring of the brake switch in a 67
> BJ8.  I can see there are two wires to the switch, Green and Green/Purple.
> I presume the current enters the switch off of one wire and leaves the
> switch off the other.  I would guess the current comes to the switch from
> the green wire and exits via the green/purple, but its only a guess.
> Further the ?hot? side, I?d guess, is the one that takes the current to the
> switch (green.)
>
> Is my thinking correct, wrong or neither, i.e., there is no hot or cold
> side.  Thank you for your input.
>
> Price Lindsay
>
> Sent from my iPad
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 17:18:03 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 19:18:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Hot & Cold Brake Wires
In-Reply-To: <CAFKLAdiQb_VBBRgi7+LHdMHqJ+oXYCNWp4jEQYD4g+q9_Pxr7Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <618226AC-AAE8-4738-BAC2-96D4A1ABC38B@gmail.com>
 <CAFKLAdiQb_VBBRgi7+LHdMHqJ+oXYCNWp4jEQYD4g+q9_Pxr7Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B6XmGFdU-ymiWhsdUQ8o13LtvgkQR-vC2aJpaX=Nm9dag@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry, I did not read the question carefully and yes the wiring is "hot"
and "cold" as stated by others.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 4:54 PM Elton S via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

>  According to the wiring diagram, the green-purple goes to the
> brakelights. The green comes from the fusebox.
> Elton
>
> On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 4:22 PM R. Lindsay via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Is there a ?hot? or ?cold? side to the wiring of the brake switch in a 67
>> BJ8.  I can see there are two wires to the switch, Green and Green/Purple.
>> I presume the current enters the switch off of one wire and leaves the
>> switch off the other.  I would guess the current comes to the switch from
>> the green wire and exits via the green/purple, but its only a guess.
>> Further the ?hot? side, I?d guess, is the one that takes the current to the
>> switch (green.)
>>
>> Is my thinking correct, wrong or neither, i.e., there is no hot or cold
>> side.  Thank you for your input.
>>
>> Price Lindsay
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eps2660 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
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>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 11 22:01:44 2021
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2021 21:01:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Generator
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOOBYYrNMgU-VkfAdZY-oWrmDh4Yu5+XbxVVUiV=3oGEtQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOBYYrNMgU-VkfAdZY-oWrmDh4Yu5+XbxVVUiV=3oGEtQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeRmGPJwW=X2JvUVhE5vxYktj-VUZgV5ssq7HMiVD=BFmg@mail.gmail.com>

Early BN2s had this feature, but late ones did not.  I'll have to check the
Concours guidelines for the changeover point.

That being said, the rear aluminum plate on these generators is prone to
breaking at the ear.  Almost ALL of the NOS replacements that I've found
over the last 30 years have this brass oiler.  So it is likely that if your
car did not come with this feature from the factory, there is a good chance
that if it broke sometime during its life, it was replaced with one of
these early back plates. It's a good feature, so don't worry.

Cheers,

Curt

On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 3:47 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I had the generator for my BN2 rebuilt by a well established shop with
> experience in British cars since the 50s.  One thing they could not tell me
> was about the rear bearing lubricator.  My generator came with a flush
> threaded plug where a brass greas filled cup (with a spring and felt pad)
> is on my 60 Bugeye generator.  One of the listers here was kind enough to
> provide a brass screw in lubricator cup for my generator.  My question is
> whether the flush plug or the Grease filled cup is correct for a 56 BN2
> generator?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon Jul 12 06:42:52 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2021 08:42:52 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Generator
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeRmGPJwW=X2JvUVhE5vxYktj-VUZgV5ssq7HMiVD=BFmg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOBYYrNMgU-VkfAdZY-oWrmDh4Yu5+XbxVVUiV=3oGEtQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAJKrNeRmGPJwW=X2JvUVhE5vxYktj-VUZgV5ssq7HMiVD=BFmg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B724NHdCQR7+_iCy1Y0nMDB0H6SqNmYW2G5tNKT6V0pCA@mail.gmail.com>

If anyone is in need of a generator I wl be happy to send for packing g and
postage.  I have several and a. not sure of configuration.

Please contact me offlist.

Michael Oritt
michael.oritt at gmail.com
305-793-9467

On Mon, Jul 12, 2021, 12:02 AM Curtis Arndt via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Early BN2s had this feature, but late ones did not.  I'll have to check
> the Concours guidelines for the changeover point.
>
> That being said, the rear aluminum plate on these generators is prone to
> breaking at the ear.  Almost ALL of the NOS replacements that I've found
> over the last 30 years have this brass oiler.  So it is likely that if your
> car did not come with this feature from the factory, there is a good chance
> that if it broke sometime during its life, it was replaced with one of
> these early back plates. It's a good feature, so don't worry.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Curt
>
> On Sun, Jul 11, 2021 at 3:47 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I had the generator for my BN2 rebuilt by a well established shop with
>> experience in British cars since the 50s.  One thing they could not tell me
>> was about the rear bearing lubricator.  My generator came with a flush
>> threaded plug where a brass greas filled cup (with a spring and felt pad)
>> is on my 60 Bugeye generator.  One of the listers here was kind enough to
>> provide a brass screw in lubricator cup for my generator.  My question is
>> whether the flush plug or the Grease filled cup is correct for a 56 BN2
>> generator?
>> Mike MacLean
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Mon Jul 12 19:00:16 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2021 18:00:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 rear springs vs BN4 and later
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqO-izUbveej+rOQDVr-AcO=YVJBHit1-23_33MGgERrqA@mail.gmail.com>

What is the difference in rear springs between BN1/BN2  and the later
cars.  Moss wants $30 more per spring for the later springs.  That's $149
vs $119.  Different length?  Different camber?
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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Tue Jul 13 05:34:00 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 11:34:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 seat recovering
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881BAC012EE33C41AE43F06D4149@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

It's been a long time since I recovered a set of 100 seats (actually early 100-6). I can't recall how I addressed the seat back ears where the three pieces seperate (inside/ piping/ outside). It seems to make sense to wrap and glue the inside piece over to the outside, and upholstery nail the piping over the inside piece (on the outside) into the wood.  Here is where I'm debating my plan of attack on the outer piece:

A) Carefully trim the outer ear piece, fold over and glue the edges, and glue it nicely up to the piping edge.

B) Same as above but stitch the outer ear piece to the piping.

C) Same as (A), but place a few hidden upholstery nails between the folded over edge of the outer ear and attempt to carefully nail them in with the head under the outer piece but through the inner edge. Risking the nail head damaging the outer material.

Unfortunately my original seats had some repairs done in this area,  so I can't see how it was originally done.

Thanks in advance,  Shawn

The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
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From svilanspeter at xplornet.ca  Tue Jul 13 11:20:31 2021
From: svilanspeter at xplornet.ca (Peter Svilans)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 13:20:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] 100 seat recovering
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR04MB4881BAC012EE33C41AE43F06D4149@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881BAC012EE33C41AE43F06D4149@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <58582fe9faf76b9b1b83d758eb40b5d6@xplornet.ca>

Hi Shawn,

(B) was the original method used by trimmers skilled in curved needle 
work.

(A) can be used with our modern SuperGlues, not available back in the 
day.  Normal contact adhesive doesn't work with vinyl to vinyl.

The intent was to fold the outer ear up to the piping ball with a near 
invisible joint. Glue will accomplish this, but if you want the original 
slightly bumpier look, then stitch.

The picture is of an original seat ear with the Hidem strip removed 
(hence the tack holes).  Note the little cut along the bottom which is 
the transition between the folded over edge to the main cover sitting 
behind the lower piping bead.

Best regards,

Peter
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Tue Jul 13 13:37:40 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2021 19:37:40 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 rear springs vs BN4 and later
Message-ID: <e789d372676e3b2d6e195f1a08bc82a7f17b22de@webmail>

Richard-section L/9 in 100 workshop manual describes the springs and
their differences. There were three types- A,B & C with the C being
used on the later cars up to BJ7-8. They go from neg camber to pos and
back to neg, but the double loop eye is the most important feature.
FYI, I had springs rebuilt at the shop in Portland, but be aware that
the original thickness (.055, I believe) shackle is no longer
available and they now use .066. This stack may be too strong for
Healeys. and changes the stiffness rate and ride height. I kept my
original main leaf, and had them rebuild the balance with the thicker,
so it still fit the clamps and has a good ride height.
These old cars had materials that just don't exist today, so you have
to be careful what you replace parts with...have seen many issues with
"exact replacement" items and Moss is at the top of the list! 
Remember, Austin Design Department were real penny pinchers and
specified the minimum whenever they could. Regards, Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "richard mayor via
Healeys" 
To: "healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Monday July 12 2021 6:10:01PM
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 rear springs vs BN4 and later

 What is the difference in rear springs between BN1/BN2 and the later
cars. Moss wants $30 more per spring for the later springs. That's
$149 vs $119. Different length? Different camber?

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From stmiller96 at hotmail.com  Tue Jul 13 18:45:19 2021
From: stmiller96 at hotmail.com (S and T Miller)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 00:45:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] 100 seat recovering
In-Reply-To: <58582fe9faf76b9b1b83d758eb40b5d6@xplornet.ca>
References: <BL0PR04MB4881BAC012EE33C41AE43F06D4149@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>,
 <58582fe9faf76b9b1b83d758eb40b5d6@xplornet.ca>
Message-ID: <BL0PR04MB4881FE5BDA366042EE145EE1D4139@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com>

Perfect, exactly the info I needed. Thank you.


The Millers

"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."
________________________________
From: Peter Svilans <svilanspeter at xplornet.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2021 1:20 PM
To: S and T Miller <stmiller96 at hotmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 seat recovering


Hi Shawn,

(B) was the original method used by trimmers skilled in curved needle work.

(A) can be used with our modern SuperGlues, not available back in the day.  Normal contact adhesive doesn't work with vinyl to vinyl.

The intent was to fold the outer ear up to the piping ball with a near invisible joint. Glue will accomplish this, but if you want the original slightly bumpier look, then stitch.

The picture is of an original seat ear with the Hidem strip removed (hence the tack holes).  Note the little cut along the bottom which is the transition between the folded over edge to the main cover sitting behind the lower piping bead.

Best regards,

Peter



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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Jul 13 19:37:41 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 09:37:41 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 rear springs vs BN4 and later
In-Reply-To: <e789d372676e3b2d6e195f1a08bc82a7f17b22de@webmail>
References: <e789d372676e3b2d6e195f1a08bc82a7f17b22de@webmail>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+mV-OGVfTPSEO-ZfBstXuEaJr=4tL_tDJk4bmGbuWg5g@mail.gmail.com>

I take offense that Austin engineers were "penny pinchers"!  I can assert
that in my Austin A90 Atlantic, penny pinching was the furthest thing from
their mind.

But then again I agree, by the time they got to the BJ8 there was alot of
penny pinching going on.... probably the worst of it was not upgrading the
exhaust mounts to something that actually holds on to the exhaust!

Cheers,

Alan

On Wed, Jul 14, 2021 at 3:38 AM Henry G Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Richard-section L/9 in 100 workshop manual describes the springs and their
> differences. There were three types- A,B & C with the C being used on the
> later cars up to BJ7-8.  They go from neg camber to pos and back to neg,
> but the double loop eye is the most important feature.
>
> FYI, I had springs rebuilt at the shop in Portland, but be aware that the
> original thickness (.055, I believe) shackle is no longer available and
> they now use .066.  This stack may be too strong for Healeys. and changes
> the stiffness rate and ride height. I kept my original main leaf, and had
> them rebuild the balance with the thicker, so it still fit the clamps and
> has a good ride height.
>
> These old cars had materials that just don't exist today, so you have to
> be careful what you replace parts with...have seen many issues with "exact
> replacement" items and Moss is at the top of the list!
>
> Remember, Austin Design Department were real penny pinchers and specified
> the minimum whenever they could. Regards, Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "richard mayor via Healeys"
> To: "healeys"
> Cc:
> Sent: Monday July 12 2021 6:10:01PM
> Subject: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 rear springs vs BN4 and later
>
> What is the difference in rear springs between BN1/BN2  and the later
> cars.  Moss wants $30 more per spring for the later springs.  That's $149
> vs $119.  Different length?  Different camber?
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com  Wed Jul  7 04:47:30 2021
From: simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com (Mitch Simmons)
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2021 06:47:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Rich Chrysler
Message-ID: <DECA1AF0-69AA-432A-AB7B-C60D17D5EF2C@gmail.com>

Rich shared his knowledge freely with others, but was a an advocate for correctness ??.which I admired
The Healey community lost one of its greatest assets with his passing.

His son Geoff did a complete interior for me several years ago??..beautiful work!!!

Cheers
Mitch

From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Thu Jul  8 13:51:14 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2021 12:51:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <2110730574.2728420.1625767095180@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
 <2110730574.2728420.1625767095180@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOM+xRb3tQ241HQjj32HRcRuQuE6YeTuoqNSgF8t=KOfsg@mail.gmail.com>

First of all I want to ask if the is some of the raised rim on the out side
of the brake drum, does that mean they have been balanced in the past?
Second, we have a long established shop in Los Angeles that specializes in
antique auto wheel with much experience in British wire wheels.  They shave
tires and mount plus balance correctly.  When I had tires installed on my
MGB GT he marked which should be in front and which in back.  Smooth
running since.  When the time comes the BN2 wheels will get the full
treatment there.
Mike MacLean

On Thu, Jul 8, 2021, 10:58 AM llennep--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> I have been told for many years that the rear axle housing, brake
> assemblies etc on these cars are so heavy that any imbalance will not be
> noticed.  Not so.  I balanced mine and I could feel the difference.  Also
> balanced a few other drums.  I strongly recommend balancing drums!!!  You
> will be surprised at how much out of balance some of them are.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rfbegani at gmail.com
> To: 'Team.net' <lawrence.swift at gmail.com>; 'Michael Salter' <
> michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: 'healeys' <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thu, Jul 8, 2021 12:56 pm
> Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
>
> I had the tires shaved and balanced and the tech marked each tire as to
> the position the car.  The best were on the front right left and the worst
> were rear right and left.  Did not balance brake drums or anything else.
> Now only a little shake which is acceptable.  Best $200 I ever spent on my
> BJ8, along with the new Michelin 180 tires which cost a little more.
>
> Hard to find a garage which has the equipment.  You need to do an in-depth
> search for Shaving Tires Near Me.  Fortunately, I found a great guy with
> the original equipment 2 hours drive across the state of Florida.  Note,
> you may find garages listed that only have equipment for Truck Tires.
>
> Bob Begani
> Punta Gorda Florida
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Team.net
> *Sent:* Thursday, July 8, 2021 9:26 AM
> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* healeys <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BJ8---clutch and "SS" aka--scuttle shake
>
> Agreed, I had the tires shaved and the rear brake drums balanced - now no
> scuttle shake.
>
>
> On Jul 8, 2021, at 09:16, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
>
>
> Second------for the years I have had this car, I have hated the dreaded
> scuttle shake.  I have balanced all wheels--even added the scuttle shake
> "mod"  (cross beams on the inner body, behind the engine) and had the rear
> drums balanced locally.  All to no avail-----between 55 and 65 there is
> comes again!!  The drive was wonderful all the while as long as I drove
> slower or faster than these speeds.
>
> What to do------what to do???
>
> Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> Tom
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/llennep at verizon.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Wed Jul 14 07:13:04 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2021 13:13:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOM+xRb3tQ241HQjj32HRcRuQuE6YeTuoqNSgF8t=KOfsg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000801d7741a$37e44f00$a7aced00$@gmail.com>
 <2110730574.2728420.1625767095180@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAL4ZEOM+xRb3tQ241HQjj32HRcRuQuE6YeTuoqNSgF8t=KOfsg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1640028078.4892193.1626268384153@mail.yahoo.com>

Mike and ListersCurrently I have a bunch of Austin Healey brake drums, over 50 of BN1-BJ8 types, and some have signs that balancing was attempted by grinding off material on the drum exterior surfaces.? Maybe 10 percent. Next time I have to move them I will do a better survey. these are all old buggers so I doubt this balancing attempt was done in the last 40 years.?While on the issue of drums, how many of you remember when mechanics would put a spring around the outer circumference of the drum. I have seen that many times but never looked into the reason.?Perry


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>

Subject: Re: [Healeys] "SS" aka--scuttle shake

First of all I want to ask if the is some of the raised rim on the out side of the brake drum, does that mean they have been balanced in the past???Mike MacLean




 ?

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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 15 01:26:57 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2021 00:26:57 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 rear springs vs BN4 and later
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTk+mV-OGVfTPSEO-ZfBstXuEaJr=4tL_tDJk4bmGbuWg5g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e789d372676e3b2d6e195f1a08bc82a7f17b22de@webmail>
 <CAFBXTk+mV-OGVfTPSEO-ZfBstXuEaJr=4tL_tDJk4bmGbuWg5g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOMxg-Ca86zuu=s+o+noarwxQM4D71_f_Pjhbg8wKb=sXg@mail.gmail.com>

This is what I got for my BN2 restoration.

https://britishclassiccarparts.com/collections/suspension/products/100-bn2-heavy-duty-rear-leaf-spring-set

On Tue, Jul 13, 2021 at 6:44 PM Alan Seigrist via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I take offense that Austin engineers were "penny pinchers"!  I can assert
> that in my Austin A90 Atlantic, penny pinching was the furthest thing from
> their mind.
>
> But then again I agree, by the time they got to the BJ8 there was alot of
> penny pinching going on.... probably the worst of it was not upgrading the
> exhaust mounts to something that actually holds on to the exhaust!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Wed, Jul 14, 2021 at 3:38 AM Henry G Leach via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Richard-section L/9 in 100 workshop manual describes the springs and
>> their differences. There were three types- A,B & C with the C being used on
>> the later cars up to BJ7-8.  They go from neg camber to pos and back to
>> neg, but the double loop eye is the most important feature.
>>
>> FYI, I had springs rebuilt at the shop in Portland, but be aware that the
>> original thickness (.055, I believe) shackle is no longer available and
>> they now use .066.  This stack may be too strong for Healeys. and changes
>> the stiffness rate and ride height. I kept my original main leaf, and had
>> them rebuild the balance with the thicker, so it still fit the clamps and
>> has a good ride height.
>>
>> These old cars had materials that just don't exist today, so you have to
>> be careful what you replace parts with...have seen many issues with "exact
>> replacement" items and Moss is at the top of the list!
>>
>> Remember, Austin Design Department were real penny pinchers and specified
>> the minimum whenever they could. Regards, Hank
>>
>> -----------------------------------------
>> From: "richard mayor via Healeys"
>> To: "healeys"
>> Cc:
>> Sent: Monday July 12 2021 6:10:01PM
>> Subject: [Healeys] BN1/BN2 rear springs vs BN4 and later
>>
>> What is the difference in rear springs between BN1/BN2  and the later
>> cars.  Moss wants $30 more per spring for the later springs.  That's $149
>> vs $119.  Different length?  Different camber?
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>
>
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From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 17 09:42:03 2021
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 11:42:03 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 servo bracket
Message-ID: <002701d77b22$4ab1a6a0$e014f3e0$@gmail.com>

Has anyone installed the aftermarket servo as sold by British Car
Specialists (Nock)? The booster comes with no instructions, and we are
trying to determine how to mount the 'P' shaped steady bracket. It looks
like they took some effort to make it a particular shape and size, but I'll
be darned if I can see what it should mount to.  Here is a picture of the
bracket in question:

 



 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jul 17 10:11:16 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 09:11:16 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 servo bracket
In-Reply-To: <002701d77b22$4ab1a6a0$e014f3e0$@gmail.com>
References: <002701d77b22$4ab1a6a0$e014f3e0$@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7309734D-1216-4B48-BA85-9C4DAF6A75E7@sbcglobal.net>

The servo kit is a universal servo kit. That bracket is supplied to support the outer end of the cylinder. 

It is not alway needed but when used we install it around the end of the cylinder and then attach to the motor mount bracket bolt to the frame.

David Nock



> On Jul 17, 2021, at 8:42 AM, alfuller194--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Has anyone installed the aftermarket servo as sold by British Car Specialists (Nock)? The booster comes with no instructions, and we are trying to determine how to mount the ?P? shaped steady bracket. It looks like they took some effort to make it a particular shape and size, but I?ll be darned if I can see what it should mount to.  Here is a picture of the bracket in question:
>  
> <image001.jpg>
>  
> ----------------
> All the best,
>  
> Al Fuller
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net <http://team.net/> http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net>
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From healey53 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 17 11:34:45 2021
From: healey53 at gmail.com (Joseph Costa)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 13:34:45 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] No spark
Message-ID: <CADigPhR_Pho9eS80ZeptUXbRvO2foqEbEa18Hoqk64hi7L6ipQ@mail.gmail.com>

Just finished changing the head gasket on the '53.  When I went to start it
I had no spark.  I've followed the procedure for checking the circuit
outlined in the service  manual and all checks - one curious item is the
check across the points.  The manual says "if you get a reading" which I do
but it is only .19 volts.
  On a side note my grandson was playing with the cap and swapped the coil
wire with #2.  Is it possible I blew the condenser when I tried to start it
the first time?
Any all all suggestions appreciated.  TIA

Joe
#923 Coronet Cream
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul 17 11:47:38 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 10:47:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] No spark
In-Reply-To: <CADigPhR_Pho9eS80ZeptUXbRvO2foqEbEa18Hoqk64hi7L6ipQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADigPhR_Pho9eS80ZeptUXbRvO2foqEbEa18Hoqk64hi7L6ipQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <27aa7966-43df-d04e-cba5-eaefa369e938@comcast.net>

"Is it possible I blew the condenser when I tried to start it 
the?first?time?"

Certainly possible; I blew a condenser on a tractor when I installed a 
battery for pos. gnd. when it's a neg. gnd. tractor. I think condensers 
are electrolytic capacitors, which are polarity sensitive (reverse 
polarity blows holes in the insulator between the terminals).

I don't know if the 4-cyls use the same distributor rotor, but there has 
been some bum 6-cyl rotors making the rounds.


On 7/17/2021 10:34 AM, Joseph Costa via Healeys wrote:
> Just finished changing the head gasket on the '53. When I went to 
> start it I had no spark.? I've followed the procedure for checking the 
> circuit outlined in the service ?manual and all checks - one curious 
> item is the check across the points.? The manual says "if you get a 
> reading" which I do but it is only .19 volts.
> ? On a side note?my grandson?was playing with the cap and swapped the 
> coil wire with #2.? Is it possible I blew the condenser when I tried 
> to start it the?first?time?
> Any all all suggestions appreciated.? TIA
>
> Joe
> #923 Coronet Cream
>


From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 17 14:03:27 2021
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (alfuller194 at gmail.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 16:03:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BJ-8 servo bracket
In-Reply-To: <7309734D-1216-4B48-BA85-9C4DAF6A75E7@sbcglobal.net>
References: <002701d77b22$4ab1a6a0$e014f3e0$@gmail.com>
 <7309734D-1216-4B48-BA85-9C4DAF6A75E7@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <008401d77b46$cf1adb90$6d5092b0$@gmail.com>

Thanks David.

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

From: David Nock <healeydoc at sbcglobal.net> 
Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2021 12:11 PM
To: alfuller194 at gmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox team. net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BJ-8 servo bracket

 

The servo kit is a universal servo kit. That bracket is supplied to support the outer end of the cylinder. 

 

It is not alway needed but when used we install it around the end of the cylinder and then attach to the motor mount bracket bolt to the frame.

 

David Nock

 

 





On Jul 17, 2021, at 8:42 AM, alfuller194--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

 

Has anyone installed the aftermarket servo as sold by British Car Specialists (Nock)? The booster comes with no instructions, and we are trying to determine how to mount the ?P? shaped steady bracket. It looks like they took some effort to make it a particular shape and size, but I?ll be darned if I can see what it should mount to.  Here is a picture of the bracket in question:

 

<image001.jpg>

 

----------------

All the best,

 

Al Fuller

 

_______________________________________________
Support  <http://team.net/> Team.Net  <http://www.team.net/donate.html> http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive:  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  <http://autox.team.net/archive> http://autox.team.net/archive

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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Jul 17 18:26:31 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (healeyguy at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 00:26:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 GT
In-Reply-To: <962466678.171208.1626564940386@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <962466678.171208.1626564940386.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <962466678.171208.1626564940386@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1991980619.180185.1626567991220@mail.yahoo.com>


ListersHave you folks seen the Austin Healey chassis under a Fiberfab Jamaican on ebay?? Listed under 1967?Austin Healey 3000 GT.?I have no connection to the car or seller. Let him/her know what the origins of the body was but the description was not changed.InterestingP?

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Sat Jul 17 18:43:13 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 20:43:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 GT
In-Reply-To: <1991980619.180185.1626567991220@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <962466678.171208.1626564940386.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <962466678.171208.1626564940386@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1991980619.180185.1626567991220@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <bec774dc-b1d8-8995-56a9-3cae69664161@earthlink.net>

Nice looking car.? I wonder where the turn signal switch is.? Based on a 
3000 MkI (carbs /dizzy)?

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/17/21 8:26 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Listers
> Have you folks seen the Austin Healey chassis under a Fiberfab 
> Jamaican on ebay?? Listed under 1967?Austin Healey 3000 GT.
> I have no connection to the car or seller. Let him/her know what the 
> origins of the body was but the description was not changed.
> Interesting
> P
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul 17 18:52:41 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 2021 17:52:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Austin Healey 3000 GT
In-Reply-To: <1991980619.180185.1626567991220@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <962466678.171208.1626564940386.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <962466678.171208.1626564940386@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1991980619.180185.1626567991220@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <c2572ffd-6cd9-b83e-cc4c-bb7471ebb950@comcast.net>

https://www.britishcarforum.com/community/threads/custom-bodied-austin-healey-3000-coupe.123405/

On 7/17/2021 5:26 PM, healeyguy--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> Listers
> Have you folks seen the Austin Healey chassis under a Fiberfab 
> Jamaican on ebay?? Listed under 1967?Austin Healey 3000 GT.
> I have no connection to the car or seller. Let him/her know what the 
> origins of the body was but the description was not changed.
> Interesting
> P
>
>
>

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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Sun Jul 18 07:27:27 2021
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 14:27:27 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Senders and gauges - again!
Message-ID: <ccaa454c-312a-b867-9045-58695f13c475@summaventures.com>

All,

as we all know Healey fuel gauges are notoriously unreliable.

I want you to cast you minds back a few years. In the past somebody on
the list came up with a solution that got things to work properly (and,
no, it had nothing to do with a piece of wood and a pen!).

I have some vague idea that it may have involved switching polarities or
something and fitting a modern gauge, but I can't recall what it was.
Can any of you remember?

The original also offered a cogent explanation of why the standard parts
didn't work which I'd also be interested in.

Thanks in advance for any help that you can offer.

Peter
-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From bluehealey at gmail.com  Sun Jul 18 07:41:41 2021
From: bluehealey at gmail.com (Bluehealey)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 14:41:41 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Senders and gauges - again!
In-Reply-To: <ccaa454c-312a-b867-9045-58695f13c475@summaventures.com>
References: <ccaa454c-312a-b867-9045-58695f13c475@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <23DD6578-DB81-4201-8EEA-BC23618F168F@gmail.com>

Would you be thinking of this Peter?

https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/06/smiths-and-jaegar-fuel-gauge-solution/

Alan - from my iPad

> On 18 Jul 2021, at 14:31, Peter Dzwig via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?All,
> 
> as we all know Healey fuel gauges are notoriously unreliable.
> 
> I want you to cast you minds back a few years. In the past somebody on
> the list came up with a solution that got things to work properly (and,
> no, it had nothing to do with a piece of wood and a pen!).
> 
> I have some vague idea that it may have involved switching polarities or
> something and fitting a modern gauge, but I can't recall what it was.
> Can any of you remember?
> 
> The original also offered a cogent explanation of why the standard parts
> didn't work which I'd also be interested in.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help that you can offer.
> 
> Peter
> -- 
> 
> Dr. Peter Dzwig
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com
> 
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From roggrace at telus.net  Sun Jul 18 09:46:17 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 08:46:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Senders and gauges - again!
In-Reply-To: <ccaa454c-312a-b867-9045-58695f13c475@summaventures.com>
References: <ccaa454c-312a-b867-9045-58695f13c475@summaventures.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiOL=67tmPb8LJV0u_W5eNmfeyxf0JK2t7TfBmTq5tr_JQ@mail.gmail.com>

I have had some success with a capacitive probe and a 5V gauge - Speedy
cables in Wales built me one with an original looking face.
Not a 5min project - mainiy because our senders are 6 hole mounting and
modern ones use 5 hole sae centers.
Also a fundamental problem is the horizontal suitcase shape of AH tanks and
only 5in range form E to F.
rg

On Sun, Jul 18, 2021 at 6:31 AM Peter Dzwig via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> All,
>
> as we all know Healey fuel gauges are notoriously unreliable.
>
> I want you to cast you minds back a few years. In the past somebody on
> the list came up with a solution that got things to work properly (and,
> no, it had nothing to do with a piece of wood and a pen!).
>
> I have some vague idea that it may have involved switching polarities or
> something and fitting a modern gauge, but I can't recall what it was.
> Can any of you remember?
>
> The original also offered a cogent explanation of why the standard parts
> didn't work which I'd also be interested in.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help that you can offer.
>
> Peter
> --
>
> Dr. Peter Dzwig
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Sun Jul 18 11:06:40 2021
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 18:06:40 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Senders and gauges - again!
In-Reply-To: <23DD6578-DB81-4201-8EEA-BC23618F168F@gmail.com>
References: <ccaa454c-312a-b867-9045-58695f13c475@summaventures.com>
 <23DD6578-DB81-4201-8EEA-BC23618F168F@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ee92ac39-67df-be4d-1e93-ed273e1d4774@summaventures.com>

Alan,

I am not really sure, but I am certainly going to look into it further,
along with Roger Grace's suggestion. Thanks for  posting the link.

Regards,

Peter

On 18/07/2021 14:41, Bluehealey wrote:
> Would you be thinking of this Peter?
> 
> https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/06/smiths-and-jaegar-fuel-gauge-solution/
> <https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2015/09/06/smiths-and-jaegar-fuel-gauge-solution/>
> 
> Alan - from my iPad
> 
>> On 18 Jul 2021, at 14:31, Peter Dzwig via Healeys
>> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?All,
>>
>> as we all know Healey fuel gauges are notoriously unreliable.
>>
>> I want you to cast you minds back a few years. In the past somebody on
>> the list came up with a solution that got things to work properly (and,
>> no, it had nothing to do with a piece of wood and a pen!).
>>
>> I have some vague idea that it may have involved switching polarities or
>> something and fitting a modern gauge, but I can't recall what it was.
>> Can any of you remember?
>>
>> The original also offered a cogent explanation of why the standard parts
>> didn't work which I'd also be interested in.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any help that you can offer.
>>
>> Peter
>> -- 
>>
>> Dr. Peter Dzwig
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com
>>

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Sun Jul 18 12:05:10 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 20:05:10 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Senders and gauges - again!
Message-ID: <886892122.191563.1626631510728@mail.ziggo.nl>

The very simple Smiths/Jaeger gauges are very reliable but they need to be fitted properly. After 55+ years the sender of the fuel gauge may give up because of corrosion or a leaking float or a capillary tube of a temperature may break. All easily repaired or cheaply replaced. Look at the electronic dash rubbish from Ford Mustang, BMW and most others. These can go wrong at any time costing horrendous amounts of money to put them right or replace them.
Kees Oudesluijs

From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 18 15:48:36 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 14:48:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crank Nut Socket
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOMXrOW76xFSP9RO47CCSBUVw3dfPqStp1pjd5vjnFj3xA@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone know where to get a 1" Whitworth/1 1/8" BS socket to tighten my BN2
Crank nut?
Mike MacLean
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 18 15:51:36 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 17:51:36 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crank Nut Socket
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOMXrOW76xFSP9RO47CCSBUVw3dfPqStp1pjd5vjnFj3xA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMXrOW76xFSP9RO47CCSBUVw3dfPqStp1pjd5vjnFj3xA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJ0Te4YbU5p9h+Os-Rm=mqNcatoqydzVZeaD_tY+kJnTg@mail.gmail.com>

The socket isn't that special Mike. 1 3/16 as I recall.

M

On Sun., Jul. 18, 2021, 5:49 p.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Anyone know where to get a 1" Whitworth/1 1/8" BS socket to tighten my BN2
> Crank nut?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca  Sun Jul 18 19:30:56 2021
From: m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca (m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca)
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2021 21:30:56 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Senders and gauges - again!
In-Reply-To: <886892122.191563.1626631510728@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <886892122.191563.1626631510728@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <010901d77c3d$b8b22190$2a1664b0$@sympatico.ca>

I agree with Kees, my gauge/sender unit have been trouble-free since I
bought the car 46 years ago.  The needle fluctuates a bit but Mike's
solution would fix that.  My advice is to stick to the original parts and
just fix them.

MIrek

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs
via Healeys
Sent: July 18, 2021 2:05 PM
To: pdzwig at summaventures.com; Peter Dzwig via Healeys
<healeys at autox.team.net>; Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Senders and gauges - again!

The very simple Smiths/Jaeger gauges are very reliable but they need to be
fitted properly. After 55+ years the sender of the fuel gauge may give up
because of corrosion or a leaking float or a capillary tube of a temperature
may break. All easily repaired or cheaply replaced. Look at the electronic
dash rubbish from Ford Mustang, BMW and most others. These can go wrong at
any time costing horrendous amounts of money to put them right or replace
them.
Kees Oudesluijs
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca


From pdzwig at summaventures.com  Mon Jul 19 03:35:51 2021
From: pdzwig at summaventures.com (Peter Dzwig)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 10:35:51 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Senders and gauges - again!
In-Reply-To: <010901d77c3d$b8b22190$2a1664b0$@sympatico.ca>
References: <886892122.191563.1626631510728@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <010901d77c3d$b8b22190$2a1664b0$@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <2166cac1-22ae-180c-8665-ddcdd87fd9a1@summaventures.com>

Thanks to all for all the advice and comments. I will look at the
various solutions, make a decision and let you know how I get on.

Regards,

Peter

On 19/07/2021 02:30, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
> I agree with Kees, my gauge/sender unit have been trouble-free since I
> bought the car 46 years ago.  The needle fluctuates a bit but Mike's
> solution would fix that.  My advice is to stick to the original parts and
> just fix them.
> 
> MIrek
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Kees Oudesluijs
> via Healeys
> Sent: July 18, 2021 2:05 PM
> To: pdzwig at summaventures.com; Peter Dzwig via Healeys
> <healeys at autox.team.net>; Bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Fuel Senders and gauges - again!
> 
> The very simple Smiths/Jaeger gauges are very reliable but they need to be
> fitted properly. After 55+ years the sender of the fuel gauge may give up
> because of corrosion or a leaking float or a capillary tube of a temperature
> may break. All easily repaired or cheaply replaced. Look at the electronic
> dash rubbish from Ford Mustang, BMW and most others. These can go wrong at
> any time costing horrendous amounts of money to put them right or replace
> them.
> Kees Oudesluijs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation
> $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/m.g.sharp at sympatico.ca
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/pdzwig at summaventures.com
> 

-- 

Dr. Peter Dzwig

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Mon Jul 19 06:44:40 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 08:44:40 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Crank Nut Socket
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOO3_mwmA=xTgDFxa_+4zOcR+fNPE7uJG23raVL=9jn9Fg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMXrOW76xFSP9RO47CCSBUVw3dfPqStp1pjd5vjnFj3xA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ0Te4YbU5p9h+Os-Rm=mqNcatoqydzVZeaD_tY+kJnTg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL4ZEOO3_mwmA=xTgDFxa_+4zOcR+fNPE7uJG23raVL=9jn9Fg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LKoOyLrnTjzzyfGFKt_tKkwkQofvY=8zwgkh1qYff_vOw@mail.gmail.com>

Pretty positive that the4's & 6's use the same nut ...
I  guesseg the socket size incorrectly.  1  11/16.

On Sun., Jul. 18, 2021, 11:23 p.m. Michael MacLean, <
springer.mike51 at gmail.com> wrote:

> The only SAE socket I have that fits a little loosely is 1 3/4".  It's a
> rather large nut with the catch lugs for a starter crank.  Possibly from
> another car?
> Mike MacLean
>
> On Sun, Jul 18, 2021, 2:51 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> The socket isn't that special Mike. 1 3/16 as I recall.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Sun., Jul. 18, 2021, 5:49 p.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Anyone know where to get a 1" Whitworth/1 1/8" BS socket to tighten my
>>> BN2 Crank nut?
>>> Mike MacLean
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Mon Jul 19 07:26:02 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 21:26:02 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Crank Nut Socket
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKoOyLrnTjzzyfGFKt_tKkwkQofvY=8zwgkh1qYff_vOw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOMXrOW76xFSP9RO47CCSBUVw3dfPqStp1pjd5vjnFj3xA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LJ0Te4YbU5p9h+Os-Rm=mqNcatoqydzVZeaD_tY+kJnTg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL4ZEOO3_mwmA=xTgDFxa_+4zOcR+fNPE7uJG23raVL=9jn9Fg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LKoOyLrnTjzzyfGFKt_tKkwkQofvY=8zwgkh1qYff_vOw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+44i36mLfeMO2qvB7eoUWdimYSbojJ-C3-XBcoeUTB4A@mail.gmail.com>

once you go that big, you can easily get the socket in mm as well.  In
fact, all my large sockets are mm because they are much cheaper!


On Mon, Jul 19, 2021 at 8:47 PM Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Pretty positive that the4's & 6's use the same nut ...
> I  guesseg the socket size incorrectly.  1  11/16.
>
> On Sun., Jul. 18, 2021, 11:23 p.m. Michael MacLean, <
> springer.mike51 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> The only SAE socket I have that fits a little loosely is 1 3/4".  It's a
>> rather large nut with the catch lugs for a starter crank.  Possibly from
>> another car?
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 18, 2021, 2:51 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The socket isn't that special Mike. 1 3/16 as I recall.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Sun., Jul. 18, 2021, 5:49 p.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Anyone know where to get a 1" Whitworth/1 1/8" BS socket to tighten my
>>>> BN2 Crank nut?
>>>> Mike MacLean
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From rjhco at att.net  Mon Jul 19 07:27:24 2021
From: rjhco at att.net (Richard J. Hockert)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 08:27:24 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Crank Nut Socket
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LKoOyLrnTjzzyfGFKt_tKkwkQofvY=8zwgkh1qYff_vOw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LKoOyLrnTjzzyfGFKt_tKkwkQofvY=8zwgkh1qYff_vOw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3C778BEB-CF32-41BE-900E-C57A54B7FD46@att.net>

43 mm

Best regards,
Jim

> On Jul 19, 2021, at 7:45 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Pretty positive that the4's & 6's use the same nut ...
> I  guesseg the socket size incorrectly.  1  11/16.
> 
>> On Sun., Jul. 18, 2021, 11:23 p.m. Michael MacLean, <springer.mike51 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> The only SAE socket I have that fits a little loosely is 1 3/4".  It's a rather large nut with the catch lugs for a starter crank.  Possibly from another car?
>> Mike MacLean
>> 
>>> On Sun, Jul 18, 2021, 2:51 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> The socket isn't that special Mike. 1 3/16 as I recall.
>>> 
>>> M
>>> 
>>>> On Sun., Jul. 18, 2021, 5:49 p.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>> Anyone know where to get a 1" Whitworth/1 1/8" BS socket to tighten my BN2 Crank nut?
>>>> Mike MacLean
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> 
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>> 
> 
> <20210719_084125.jpg>
> <20210719_084022.jpg>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjhco at att.net
> 
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From rcobb at sonic.net  Mon Jul 19 13:05:38 2021
From: rcobb at sonic.net (RCobb)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 12:05:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] virtual sighting of an AH
Message-ID: <23408258-f2c0-0952-95b9-435feb5f0af9@sonic.net>

BRG BJ8 spotted in the music video for "Everybody Wants to Rule the World":

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGCdLKXNF3w

"The video begins with Smith driving a vintage Austin-Healey 3000 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Austin-Healey_3000> sports car while a 
toddler points toy guns in Smith's direction.^[58] 
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Everybody_Wants_to_Rule_the_World#cite_note-PitchforkVideo-58> 
The car is then seen driving through a desert, this scene is intercut 
with the band performing the song in a studio. Smith parks the car at 
the Wheel Inn diner and makes a call from a telephone booth."

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Everybody_Wants_to_Rule_the_World

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Mon Jul 19 19:27:19 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2021 18:27:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Fuel Senders and gauges - again!
In-Reply-To: <886892122.191563.1626631510728@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <886892122.191563.1626631510728@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <35fac56d-7a29-f99c-a03a-95f462a70cf0@comcast.net>

I rather like my Mustang's digital gauge cluster. This is 'Sport+' mode; 
mileage, tire pressure, navigation readouts are also available. Other 
modes include Track, Drag, Ice/Snow and Normal.

But, the nannies do quit working sometimes when the car gets heat-soaked 
(which, of course, never happens at the dealer's shop).

bs

On 7/18/2021 11:05 AM, Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys wrote:
> The very simple Smiths/Jaeger gauges are very reliable but they need to be fitted properly. After 55+ years the sender of the fuel gauge may give up because of corrosion or a leaking float or a capillary tube of a temperature may break. All easily repaired or cheaply replaced. Look at the electronic dash rubbish from Ford Mustang, BMW and most others. These can go wrong at any time costing horrendous amounts of money to put them right or replace them.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>

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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Tue Jul 20 08:09:39 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2021 07:09:39 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
Message-ID: <00a501d77d70$e1403690$a3c0a3b0$@roadrunner.com>

I've a question for those who have installed an auxiliary electric pusher
fan.  Install using the thermoswitch only?  Use a manual switch only?  Both?

 

Also, anyone have plans or dimensions for a baffle that fits between the
radiator tank (standard radiator) and the edge of the bonnet opening,
spanning the radiator support brackets? 

 

Thanks.

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Tue Jul 20 08:22:47 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2021 16:22:47 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
Message-ID: <397208926.236064.1626790967704@mail.ziggo.nl>

Always fit a thermo-switch and a manual override switch. The thermo switch should be compatible with the opening temperature of the engine thermostat. The thermoswitch should switch off at a temperature about 5 degrees C over the opening temperature of the thermostat. It should switch on near 90-95 degrees C.

Remember, the higher the temperature the better the cooling because of an increase in Delta T.

Kees Oudesluijs
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From manifold at telus.net  Tue Jul 20 11:09:23 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2021 10:09:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
In-Reply-To: <397208926.236064.1626790967704@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <397208926.236064.1626790967704@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <469DB2D6-5E3C-4FEB-B189-48CC277BA835@hxcore.ol>

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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue Jul 20 21:31:56 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 11:31:56 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
In-Reply-To: <469DB2D6-5E3C-4FEB-B189-48CC277BA835@hxcore.ol>
References: <397208926.236064.1626790967704@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <469DB2D6-5E3C-4FEB-B189-48CC277BA835@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkL-uVOrCkm4B-b862qL7LFbzz83Kz-bi8B4w3aVxD7B9g@mail.gmail.com>

In 1991 bolt on cooling fans didn't have sufficient CFMs to be particularly
effective, but worked well on the jags and MGs that had them simply because
they designed the systems around the CFMs they could produce.  In the last
10-15 years, the fans you can buy now can move a huge amount of air, so
putting a pusher in front of the radiator is a viable option now.

Although my view still remains to make sure the cooling system is sorted,
suggest jet hot coating the exhaust header first, and go with a plastic 5
blade fan and use a 165 deg thermostat.  If that still doesn't work then
consider adding a fan.

Cheers,

Alan

On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 1:11 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Bruce,
>
>
>
> See this 1991 memo form Geoff Healey. An electric fan could worsen cooling
> problems if it doesn?t always draw ambient air.
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
> *From: *Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *Tuesday, July 20, 2021 7:23 AM
> *To: *Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; Austin Healey
> <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
>
>
>
> Always fit a thermo-switch and a manual override switch. The thermo switch
> should be compatible with the opening temperature of the engine thermostat.
> The thermoswitch should switch off at a temperature about 5 degrees C over
> the opening temperature of the thermostat. It should switch on near 90-95
> degrees C.
>
> Remember, the higher the temperature the better the cooling because of an
> increase in Delta T.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Wed Jul 21 03:48:03 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 11:48:03 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
Message-ID: <1728694915.252233.1626860883591@mail.ziggo.nl>

A thermostat with a lower opening temperature does not prevent overheating. It may buy you some time before the engine overheats but if you are long enough in a traffic jam it will overheat eventually. A more powerful fixed fan may alleviate the problem a bit but the only real solution will be a properly installed electric fan.

I have done this from the sixties on all my cars that had a fixed fan. However even in those days many of the more powerful cars were already equipped with thermostatically controlled radiator fans.

An electric fan does not solve overheating because of other issues like a dirty or blocked radiator, silted up engine, faulty cowling etc.


Kees Oudesluijs
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed Jul 21 08:19:32 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 07:19:32 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
In-Reply-To: <1728694915.252233.1626860883591@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <1728694915.252233.1626860883591@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8-+SL2gmB4yGrDtrdrbKNL2RPfK02v5xUpi+cree6_91A@mail.gmail.com>

Been following this thread.  When I lived in Los Angeles I had a pusher fan
as I commuted into downtown. I had a switch control. I removed it when I
moved to Oregon.  I recently installed a more powerful one for my Conclave
trip with thermostat and switch control.  It helped.  I just installed an
air shovel and it has improved airflow a lot. Car stayed cool on a 250
drive and stop and go freeway traffic.

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR

On Wed, Jul 21, 2021, 2:49 AM Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> A thermostat with a lower opening temperature does not prevent
> overheating. It may buy you some time before the engine overheats but if
> you are long enough in a traffic jam it will overheat eventually. A more
> powerful fixed fan may alleviate the problem a bit but the only real
> solution will be a properly installed electric fan.
>
> I have done this from the sixties on all my cars that had a fixed fan.
> However even in those days many of the more powerful cars were already
> equipped with thermostatically controlled radiator fans.
>
> An electric fan does not solve overheating because of other issues like a
> dirty or blocked radiator, silted up engine, faulty cowling etc.
>
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
>
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From rubino at truespeed.ca  Wed Jul 21 08:28:56 2021
From: rubino at truespeed.ca (rubino at truespeed.ca)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 14:28:56 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] old problem of cockpit heat
Message-ID: <em18fa42d5-0d4b-4f54-90fb-8d86a42a1da5@p6520f>

I recently noticed that when I push the air intake on my 100-6 I get 
really hot air not by far the same temp as outside. Consequently I have 
been running with the intake closed.

I checked the cold air hose to make sure it is properly connected at 
both ends so as not to pick up heat from the engine compartment. Hose 
appears to be intact.

I have been thinking about getting a 3 inch hose wrapping it in 
insulating tape and put it inside the existing cold air hose.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Carl
1957-Longbridge
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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Wed Jul 21 09:04:48 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 08:04:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkL-uVOrCkm4B-b862qL7LFbzz83Kz-bi8B4w3aVxD7B9g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <397208926.236064.1626790967704@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <469DB2D6-5E3C-4FEB-B189-48CC277BA835@hxcore.ol>
 <CAFBXTkL-uVOrCkm4B-b862qL7LFbzz83Kz-bi8B4w3aVxD7B9g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <03a201d77e41$c059e5d0$410db170$@roadrunner.com>

Thanks, Alan.  I had the exhaust manifold ceramic coated years ago.  

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 8:32 PM
To: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>; Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; Austin Healey <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan

 

In 1991 bolt on cooling fans didn't have sufficient CFMs to be particularly effective, but worked well on the jags and MGs that had them simply because they designed the systems around the CFMs they could produce.  In the last 10-15 years, the fans you can buy now can move a huge amount of air, so putting a pusher in front of the radiator is a viable option now.

 

Although my view still remains to make sure the cooling system is sorted, suggest jet hot coating the exhaust header first, and go with a plastic 5 blade fan and use a 165 deg thermostat.  If that still doesn't work then consider adding a fan.

 

Cheers,

 

Alan

 

On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 1:11 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Bruce,

 

See this 1991 memo form Geoff Healey. An electric fan could worsen cooling problems if it doesn?t always draw ambient air. 

 

Harold

 

From: Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 7:23 AM
To: Bruce Steele <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> ; Austin Healey <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan

 

Always fit a thermo-switch and a manual override switch. The thermo switch should be compatible with the opening temperature of the engine thermostat. The thermoswitch should switch off at a temperature about 5 degrees C over the opening temperature of the thermostat. It should switch on near 90-95 degrees C.

Remember, the higher the temperature the better the cooling because of an increase in Delta T.

Kees Oudesluijs

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Jul 21 09:54:04 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 08:54:04 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
In-Reply-To: <03a201d77e41$c059e5d0$410db170$@roadrunner.com>
References: <397208926.236064.1626790967704@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <469DB2D6-5E3C-4FEB-B189-48CC277BA835@hxcore.ol>
 <CAFBXTkL-uVOrCkm4B-b862qL7LFbzz83Kz-bi8B4w3aVxD7B9g@mail.gmail.com>
 <03a201d77e41$c059e5d0$410db170$@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <ba83b80e-139a-b04f-9357-72c0d2019046@comcast.net>

FWIW, I had my BJ8's manifold coated--by JetHot--during an overhaul and 
didn't notice any difference in running temps.


On 7/21/2021 8:04 AM, Bruce Steele via Healeys wrote:
>
> Thanks, Alan.? I had the exhaust manifold ceramic coated years ago.
>
> Bruce Steele
>
> Brea, CA
>
> 1960 BN7
>
> *From:*Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 20, 2021 8:32 PM
> *To:* Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
> *Cc:* Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>; Bruce Steele 
> <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; Austin Healey <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
>
> In 1991 bolt?on cooling fans didn't have sufficient CFMs to be 
> particularly effective, but worked well on the jags and MGs that had 
> them simply because they designed the systems around the CFMs they 
> could produce.? In the last 10-15 years, the fans you can buy now can 
> move a huge amount of air, so putting a pusher in front of the 
> radiator is a viable option now.
>
> Although my view still remains to make sure the cooling system is 
> sorted, suggest jet hot coating the exhaust header first, and go with 
> a plastic 5 blade fan and use a 165 deg thermostat.? If that still 
> doesn't work then consider adding a fan.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Alan
>
> On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 1:11 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     Bruce,
>
>     See this 1991 memo form Geoff Healey. An electric fan could worsen
>     cooling problems if it doesn?t always draw ambient air.
>
>     Harold
>
>     *From: *Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Sent: *Tuesday, July 20, 2021 7:23 AM
>     *To: *Bruce Steele <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; Austin
>     Healey <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>     *Subject: *Re: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
>
>     Always fit a thermo-switch and a manual override switch. The
>     thermo switch should be compatible with the opening temperature of
>     the engine thermostat. The thermoswitch should switch off at a
>     temperature about 5 degrees C over the opening temperature of the
>     thermostat. It should switch on near 90-95 degrees C.
>
>     Remember, the higher the temperature the better the cooling
>     because of an increase in Delta T.
>
>     Kees Oudesluijs
>
>     _______________________________________________
>

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From frogeye at porterscustom.com  Wed Jul 21 12:53:09 2021
From: frogeye at porterscustom.com (David P)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 12:53:09 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] old problem of cockpit heat
In-Reply-To: <em18fa42d5-0d4b-4f54-90fb-8d86a42a1da5@p6520f>
References: <em18fa42d5-0d4b-4f54-90fb-8d86a42a1da5@p6520f>
Message-ID: <a9373873-da3e-67ed-e575-ea114ff49180@porterscustom.com>

buy a second set of ducts, slice them length wise and slip over with the 
slice hidden under the fenders.. can't hurt?

On 7/21/2021 8:28 AM, Dr C A Rubino via Healeys wrote:
> I recently noticed that when I push the air intake on my 100-6 I get 
> really hot air not by far the same temp as outside. Consequently I 
> have been running with the intake closed.
>
> I checked the cold air hose to make sure it is properly connected at 
> both ends so as not to pick up heat from the engine compartment. Hose 
> appears to be intact.
>
> I have been thinking about getting a 3 inch hose wrapping it in 
> insulating tape and put it inside the existing cold air hose.
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions?
>
> Carl
> 1957-Longbridge
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com
>
-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Jul 21 13:08:53 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 19:08:53 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] old problem of cockpit heat
Message-ID: <7afb56fee4f6a772b1aebe90ee28ea1c6825dd68@webmail>

Remember too, the Longbridge 100-6s do not have baffles. After Geoff
Healey "smoked" them they added the parts to Abingdon cars. You can
buy a set from Moss to upgrade. That may control some of the cockpit
heat. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "David P via Healeys" 
To: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday July 21 2021 12:01:50PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] old problem of cockpit heat

	buy a second set of ducts, slice them length wise and slip over with
the slice hidden under the fenders.. can't hurt?
 On 7/21/2021 8:28 AM, Dr C A Rubino via Healeys wrote:
  I recently noticed that when I push the air intake on my 100-6 I get
really hot air not by far the same temp as outside. Consequently I
have been running with the intake closed. 
 I checked the cold air hose to make sure it is properly connected at
both ends so as not to pick up heat from the engine compartment. Hose
appears to be intact. 
 I have been thinking about getting a 3 inch hose wrapping it in
insulating tape and put it inside the existing cold air hose. 
 Any thoughts or suggestions? 
 Carl 1957-Longbridge 

 _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  "http://www.team.net/donate.html">
"http://www.team.net/donate.html" target=
 "_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  "http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">
"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" target=
 "_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 

Links:
------
[1]
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/frogeye at porterscustom.com

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From healeybruce at roadrunner.com  Wed Jul 21 13:41:46 2021
From: healeybruce at roadrunner.com (Bruce Steele)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 12:41:46 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
In-Reply-To: <ba83b80e-139a-b04f-9357-72c0d2019046@comcast.net>
References: <397208926.236064.1626790967704@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <469DB2D6-5E3C-4FEB-B189-48CC277BA835@hxcore.ol>
 <CAFBXTkL-uVOrCkm4B-b862qL7LFbzz83Kz-bi8B4w3aVxD7B9g@mail.gmail.com>
 <03a201d77e41$c059e5d0$410db170$@roadrunner.com>
 <ba83b80e-139a-b04f-9357-72c0d2019046@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <051a01d77e68$712a38d0$537eaa70$@roadrunner.com>

I?m not sure it reduced heat, but it looks great!

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Spidell
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2021 8:54 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan

 

FWIW, I had my BJ8's manifold coated--by JetHot--during an overhaul and didn't notice any difference in running temps.



On 7/21/2021 8:04 AM, Bruce Steele via Healeys wrote:

Thanks, Alan.  I had the exhaust manifold ceramic coated years ago.  

 

Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7

 

From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut at gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 8:32 PM
To: Harold Manifold  <mailto:manifold at telus.net> <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: Kees Oudesluijs  <mailto:coudesluijs at upcmail.nl> <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>; Bruce Steele  <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> <healeybruce at roadrunner.com>; Austin Healey  <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan

 

In 1991 bolt on cooling fans didn't have sufficient CFMs to be particularly effective, but worked well on the jags and MGs that had them simply because they designed the systems around the CFMs they could produce.  In the last 10-15 years, the fans you can buy now can move a huge amount of air, so putting a pusher in front of the radiator is a viable option now.

 

Although my view still remains to make sure the cooling system is sorted, suggest jet hot coating the exhaust header first, and go with a plastic 5 blade fan and use a 165 deg thermostat.  If that still doesn't work then consider adding a fan.

 

Cheers,

 

Alan

 

On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 1:11 AM Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Bruce,

 

See this 1991 memo form Geoff Healey. An electric fan could worsen cooling problems if it doesn?t always draw ambient air. 

 

Harold

 

From: Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 7:23 AM
To: Bruce Steele <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com> ; Austin Healey <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan

 

Always fit a thermo-switch and a manual override switch. The thermo switch should be compatible with the opening temperature of the engine thermostat. The thermoswitch should switch off at a temperature about 5 degrees C over the opening temperature of the thermostat. It should switch on near 90-95 degrees C.

Remember, the higher the temperature the better the cooling because of an increase in Delta T.

Kees Oudesluijs

 

_______________________________________________

 

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From warthodson at aol.com  Wed Jul 21 13:48:44 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2021 19:48:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] old problem of cockpit heat
In-Reply-To: <a9373873-da3e-67ed-e575-ea114ff49180@porterscustom.com>
References: <em18fa42d5-0d4b-4f54-90fb-8d86a42a1da5@p6520f>
 <a9373873-da3e-67ed-e575-ea114ff49180@porterscustom.com>
Message-ID: <2027671417.13023.1626896924110@mail.yahoo.com>

It may not hurt, but it probably won't measurably help either.?If there were more room around the existing 4" (?) duct, insulating it with about 1/2" closed cell rubber insulation might produce measurable results.Given the lack of space around the 4" duct, perhaps wrapping 1/2" closed cell rubber insulation around a 3" diameter duct might work well. The air flow thru the 3" duct might not be reduced much & it should be much closer to ambient temperature.?
Gary Hodson

-----Original Message-----
From: David P via Healeys <healeys at auto.team.net>
To: rubino at truespeed.ca; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Jul 21, 2021 1:53 pm
Subject: Re: [Healeys] old problem of cockpit heat

 buy a second set of ducts, slice them length wise and slip over with the slice hidden under the fenders.. can't hurt?
  On 7/21/2021 8:28 AM, Dr C A Rubino via Healeys wrote:
  
 
#yiv3963511179 blockquote.yiv3963511179cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;}#yiv3963511179 blockquote.yiv3963511179cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;}#yiv3963511179 a img {border:0px;}#yiv3963511179 #yiv3963511179 #yiv3963511179 #yiv3963511179 , #yiv3963511179 #yiv3963511179 #yiv3963511179 #yiv3963511179 , #yiv3963511179 #yiv3963511179 #yiv3963511179 #yiv3963511179 , #yiv3963511179 #yiv3963511179 #yiv3963511179 #yiv3963511179 {list-style-position:inside;}#yiv3963511179 body {font-family:Segoe UI;font-size:12pt;}#yiv3963511179 .yiv3963511179quote {margin-left:1em;margin-right:1em;border-left:5px #ebebeb solid;padding-left:0.3em;} I recently noticed that when I push the air intake on my 100-6 I get really hot air not by far the same temp as outside. Consequently I have been running with the intake closed. 
  I checked the cold air hose to make sure it is properly connected at both ends so as not to pick up heat from the engine compartment. Hose appears to be intact. 
  I have been thinking about getting a 3 inch hose wrapping it in insulating tape and put it inside the existing cold air hose. 
  Any thoughts or suggestions? 
  Carl 1957-Longbridge 
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jul 21 19:06:24 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2021 09:06:24 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
In-Reply-To: <1728694915.252233.1626860883591@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <1728694915.252233.1626860883591@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJxREHX88wR8GqkP3Jiy0TVqniDz=dLSx9C4_2kOqR0kQ@mail.gmail.com>

Kees -

Living in hot and tropical climates like I have, I can confirm that using
cooler thermostats helps a great deal to reduce heat spikes in traffic, as
there is significantly less heat energy stored in the coolant at 165F vs
180F.  That combined with a well sorted system will be sufficient to give
you a few more minutes at idle than if you were running a 180 or 190F
thermostat on a very hot day.

You are correct it technically will not prevent overheating, but it will
postpone it long enough until you get driving again.

Best,

Alan

On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 5:48 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
wrote:

> A thermostat with a lower opening temperature does not prevent
> overheating. It may buy you some time before the engine overheats but if
> you are long enough in a traffic jam it will overheat eventually. A more
> powerful fixed fan may alleviate the problem a bit but the only real
> solution will be a properly installed electric fan.
>
> I have done this from the sixties on all my cars that had a fixed fan.
> However even in those days many of the more powerful cars were already
> equipped with thermostatically controlled radiator fans.
>
> An electric fan does not solve overheating because of other issues like a
> dirty or blocked radiator, silted up engine, faulty cowling etc.
>
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 22 11:31:44 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2021 10:31:44 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] $250 discount for Quickjack
Message-ID: <CABXhz89dB0UR5QNjAwgeWTYBADUD14dBXc46ADr_zMzxqyzOgQ@mail.gmail.com>

NFI. got this email from another forum
https://tinyurl.com/nmz4zmm8   discount code for quickjack
Ira Erbs
59 BN4
67 MGB
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
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From jim at jimbunte.com  Thu Jul 22 11:59:27 2021
From: jim at jimbunte.com (jim at jimbunte.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2021 12:59:27 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] possible jaguar parts?
Message-ID: <C4FBD662-6163-BE42-892C-5B6E287597F0@hxcore.ol>

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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Thu Jul 22 15:51:42 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2021 14:51:42 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkJxREHX88wR8GqkP3Jiy0TVqniDz=dLSx9C4_2kOqR0kQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1728694915.252233.1626860883591@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <CAFBXTkJxREHX88wR8GqkP3Jiy0TVqniDz=dLSx9C4_2kOqR0kQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqNxy_xFax+JQ1QG5e5ofi1tFdXvR3RWDM9b_kV3voTidg@mail.gmail.com>

What is the down side of running a 165 degree thermostat?  Is your engine
not running at optimum efficiency?  I have been led to believe that an
engine's optimum running temperature is somewhere around 185 - 190 degrees.

On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 6:07 PM Alan Seigrist via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Kees -
>
> Living in hot and tropical climates like I have, I can confirm that using
> cooler thermostats helps a great deal to reduce heat spikes in traffic, as
> there is significantly less heat energy stored in the coolant at 165F vs
> 180F.  That combined with a well sorted system will be sufficient to give
> you a few more minutes at idle than if you were running a 180 or 190F
> thermostat on a very hot day.
>
> You are correct it technically will not prevent overheating, but it will
> postpone it long enough until you get driving again.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
> On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 5:48 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
> wrote:
>
>> A thermostat with a lower opening temperature does not prevent
>> overheating. It may buy you some time before the engine overheats but if
>> you are long enough in a traffic jam it will overheat eventually. A more
>> powerful fixed fan may alleviate the problem a bit but the only real
>> solution will be a properly installed electric fan.
>>
>> I have done this from the sixties on all my cars that had a fixed fan.
>> However even in those days many of the more powerful cars were already
>> equipped with thermostatically controlled radiator fans.
>>
>> An electric fan does not solve overheating because of other issues like a
>> dirty or blocked radiator, silted up engine, faulty cowling etc.
>>
>>
>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Jul 22 18:54:48 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 08:54:48 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqNxy_xFax+JQ1QG5e5ofi1tFdXvR3RWDM9b_kV3voTidg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1728694915.252233.1626860883591@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <CAFBXTkJxREHX88wR8GqkP3Jiy0TVqniDz=dLSx9C4_2kOqR0kQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqNxy_xFax+JQ1QG5e5ofi1tFdXvR3RWDM9b_kV3voTidg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKkHq9o2zL+EqStVPkCH+Oe8S45QmB7aaZ1qKD4hWQWyQ@mail.gmail.com>

Honestly I have never found a downside to it.  Actually my experience is at
190 some stuff gets loose on the car, so at 165 stuff seems to run better.
180 works okay but I prefer to have a wide mouth thermostat like the
Waller, then that's okay too.

On Fri, Jul 23, 2021 at 5:51 AM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

> What is the down side of running a 165 degree thermostat?  Is your engine
> not running at optimum efficiency?  I have been led to believe that an
> engine's optimum running temperature is somewhere around 185 - 190 degrees.
>
> On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 6:07 PM Alan Seigrist via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Kees -
>>
>> Living in hot and tropical climates like I have, I can confirm that using
>> cooler thermostats helps a great deal to reduce heat spikes in traffic, as
>> there is significantly less heat energy stored in the coolant at 165F vs
>> 180F.  That combined with a well sorted system will be sufficient to give
>> you a few more minutes at idle than if you were running a 180 or 190F
>> thermostat on a very hot day.
>>
>> You are correct it technically will not prevent overheating, but it will
>> postpone it long enough until you get driving again.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 5:48 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> A thermostat with a lower opening temperature does not prevent
>>> overheating. It may buy you some time before the engine overheats but if
>>> you are long enough in a traffic jam it will overheat eventually. A more
>>> powerful fixed fan may alleviate the problem a bit but the only real
>>> solution will be a properly installed electric fan.
>>>
>>> I have done this from the sixties on all my cars that had a fixed fan.
>>> However even in those days many of the more powerful cars were already
>>> equipped with thermostatically controlled radiator fans.
>>>
>>> An electric fan does not solve overheating because of other issues like
>>> a dirty or blocked radiator, silted up engine, faulty cowling etc.
>>>
>>>
>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Thu Jul 22 20:09:31 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2021 22:09:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
In-Reply-To: <CAFBXTkKkHq9o2zL+EqStVPkCH+Oe8S45QmB7aaZ1qKD4hWQWyQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1728694915.252233.1626860883591@mail.ziggo.nl>
 <CAFBXTkJxREHX88wR8GqkP3Jiy0TVqniDz=dLSx9C4_2kOqR0kQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqNxy_xFax+JQ1QG5e5ofi1tFdXvR3RWDM9b_kV3voTidg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAFBXTkKkHq9o2zL+EqStVPkCH+Oe8S45QmB7aaZ1qKD4hWQWyQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5mWCoBxFiO3sstV2djHerEEddCLKsFZeMy+=Yj6CSBgg@mail.gmail.com>

"Overheating" is an imprecise term and so long as the rad does not boil
over and/or the carbs go into vapor lock the fact that the indicated temp
is at or slightly above 212 is not a conversation stopper.
For those really challenging situations where traffic is stop and go, etc.
I turn on the auxiliary fan ASAP and place some duct tape over the temp
gauge so I will not constantly look at it.  If things get drastic the car
will tell you....

Best--Michael Oritt

On Thu, Jul 22, 2021 at 8:55 PM Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com> wrote:

> Honestly I have never found a downside to it.  Actually my experience is
> at 190 some stuff gets loose on the car, so at 165 stuff seems to run
> better.  180 works okay but I prefer to have a wide mouth thermostat like
> the Waller, then that's okay too.
>
> On Fri, Jul 23, 2021 at 5:51 AM richard mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> What is the down side of running a 165 degree thermostat?  Is your engine
>> not running at optimum efficiency?  I have been led to believe that an
>> engine's optimum running temperature is somewhere around 185 - 190 degrees.
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 6:07 PM Alan Seigrist via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Kees -
>>>
>>> Living in hot and tropical climates like I have, I can confirm that
>>> using cooler thermostats helps a great deal to reduce heat spikes in
>>> traffic, as there is significantly less heat energy stored in the coolant
>>> at 165F vs 180F.  That combined with a well sorted system will be
>>> sufficient to give you a few more minutes at idle than if you were running
>>> a 180 or 190F thermostat on a very hot day.
>>>
>>> You are correct it technically will not prevent overheating, but it will
>>> postpone it long enough until you get driving again.
>>>
>>> Best,
>>>
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 5:48 PM Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> A thermostat with a lower opening temperature does not prevent
>>>> overheating. It may buy you some time before the engine overheats but if
>>>> you are long enough in a traffic jam it will overheat eventually. A more
>>>> powerful fixed fan may alleviate the problem a bit but the only real
>>>> solution will be a properly installed electric fan.
>>>>
>>>> I have done this from the sixties on all my cars that had a fixed fan.
>>>> However even in those days many of the more powerful cars were already
>>>> equipped with thermostatically controlled radiator fans.
>>>>
>>>> An electric fan does not solve overheating because of other issues like
>>>> a dirty or blocked radiator, silted up engine, faulty cowling etc.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Kees Oudesluijs
>>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Fri Jul 23 01:44:30 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 09:44:30 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Auxiliary electric fan
Message-ID: <295977010.295247.1627026270492@mail.ziggo.nl>

Depending on the engine type the optimal running coolant temperature measured in the cylinder head or top tank of the radiator is around 90C. To low a temperature may cause insufficient combustion leaving deposits on the cylinder head and valves. There is also a chance for condensation not being boiled off sufficiently in the oil in the crankcase.

A higher coolant temperature also means better cooling in the radiator as the delta T is higher.

Obviously this will not work satisfactory if the engine and cooling system are not ship shape.

Kees Oudesluijs
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From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Tue Jul 20 14:55:56 2021
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 2021 13:55:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Crank Nut Socket
In-Reply-To: <3C778BEB-CF32-41BE-900E-C57A54B7FD46@att.net>
References: <CAB3i7LKoOyLrnTjzzyfGFKt_tKkwkQofvY=8zwgkh1qYff_vOw@mail.gmail.com>
 <3C778BEB-CF32-41BE-900E-C57A54B7FD46@att.net>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeQKoThUvsA9bJYrw2mFv3fMzf-kbY_dDgA3kXNkCj1E7A@mail.gmail.com>

Mike,

FWIW, I do have a proper 1"W wrench, but you probably would prefer a socket
to torque it correctly.

Curt

On Mon, Jul 19, 2021 at 6:28 AM Richard J. Hockert via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> 43 mm
>
> Best regards,
> Jim
>
> On Jul 19, 2021, at 7:45 AM, Michael Salter via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> ?
> Pretty positive that the4's & 6's use the same nut ...
> I  guesseg the socket size incorrectly.  1  11/16.
>
> On Sun., Jul. 18, 2021, 11:23 p.m. Michael MacLean, <
> springer.mike51 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> The only SAE socket I have that fits a little loosely is 1 3/4".  It's a
>> rather large nut with the catch lugs for a starter crank.  Possibly from
>> another car?
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 18, 2021, 2:51 PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> The socket isn't that special Mike. 1 3/16 as I recall.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> On Sun., Jul. 18, 2021, 5:49 p.m. Michael MacLean via Healeys, <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Anyone know where to get a 1" Whitworth/1 1/8" BS socket to tighten my
>>>> BN2 Crank nut?
>>>> Mike MacLean
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>> <20210719_084125.jpg>
> <20210719_084022.jpg>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rjhco at att.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 23 15:03:58 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 14:03:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ@mail.gmail.com>

The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake
system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake
fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this
decision?
Mike MacLean
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Fri Jul 23 15:35:23 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 23:35:23 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID: <847290308.312336.1627076123765@mail.ziggo.nl>

DOT4. If you want to try silicon you would have to rebuild your entire hydraulic circuit and fit all new rubber components. It may sometimes work without a rebuild or it may fail as DOT4 and DOT5 (silicon) are not compatible and do not mix.

What your life (and others) worth??

Kees Oudesluijs
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Fri Jul 23 15:44:24 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 23:44:24 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID: <1867776020.312388.1627076664916@mail.ziggo.nl>

Sorry, did not read the question properly.

In a new system you have the choice obviously.

I would go for DOT4, which absorbs water, and change that every two years. That will get rid of any moisture getting into your system before it can do any harm. It also forces you to check the system when you replace the fluid. It is cheap and available anywhere.

The problem with silicon brake fluid is that it does not absorb water. Water will always enter the system because of condensation in the brake fluid reservoir. This moisture can than settle in the lower parts of the system and cause havoc unnoticed until it leaks.


Kees Oudesluijs
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Fri Jul 23 15:52:37 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 17:52:37 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <1867776020.312388.1627076664916@mail.ziggo.nl>
References: <1867776020.312388.1627076664916@mail.ziggo.nl>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+fj0-n9ms+P4=Coe=QFUdHyPEMyiwk75sdq64gkWPrSA@mail.gmail.com>

In this instance I  agree with Kees.
The decision comes down to personal preference IMHO.

M

On Fri., Jul. 23, 2021, 5:48 p.m. Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Sorry, did not read the question properly.
>
> In a new system you have the choice obviously.
>
> I would go for DOT4, which absorbs water, and change that every two years.
> That will get rid of any moisture getting into your system before it can do
> any harm. It also forces you to check the system when you replace the
> fluid. It is cheap and available anywhere.
>
> The problem with silicon brake fluid is that it does not absorb water.
> Water will always enter the system because of condensation in the brake
> fluid reservoir. This moisture can than settle in the lower parts of the
> system and cause havoc unnoticed until it leaks.
>
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From airtightproductions at icloud.com  Fri Jul 23 17:29:48 2021
From: airtightproductions at icloud.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 23:29:48 -0000
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
References: <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe@me.com>

I'm with everyone else I've read so far; DOT 4. Simple and it works.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1

On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?
Mike MacLean
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 23 21:26:15 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 20:26:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting
Message-ID: <c2ed5095-f375-2468-ac4f-d58cf6265e6c@comcast.net>

I think they're listening to Apollo 11 on the radio.


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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sat Jul 24 03:28:56 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 05:28:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe@me.com>
References: <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe@me.com>
Message-ID: <2133467853.110536294.1627118936470.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

I have been using DOT 5 in my BJ8 for years.  Works fine for me.
----- Original Message -----
From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 19:29:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

I'm with everyone else I've read so far; DOT 4. Simple and it works.Steven KingsburyBN1
On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this decision?Mike MacLean_______________________________________________
Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From warthodson at aol.com  Sat Jul 24 07:03:25 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 13:03:25 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe@me.com>
References: <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe@me.com>
Message-ID: <1485251345.715106.1627131805514@mail.yahoo.com>

I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.
The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.?

Gary Hodson



On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?Mike MacLean

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat Jul 24 07:18:38 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 09:18:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <1485251345.715106.1627131805514@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe@me.com>
 <1485251345.715106.1627131805514@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B4CdEdqt6orZf-ujz=Di5KjYAHKAekuhPFq1hfgDAFg=w@mail.gmail.com>

"The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"

Not necessarily a good one.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.
> It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).
> It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
> A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone
> fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.
> The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.
>
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
> On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake
> system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake
> fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this
> decision?
> Mike MacLean
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Sat Jul 24 07:33:05 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 15:33:05 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID: <1204316342.319344.1627133585866@mail.ziggo.nl>

Perhaps the military also specify corrosion proof/lined/SS hydraulic parts??
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From warthodson at aol.com  Sat Jul 24 07:38:04 2021
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 13:38:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4CdEdqt6orZf-ujz=Di5KjYAHKAekuhPFq1hfgDAFg=w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe@me.com>
 <1485251345.715106.1627131805514@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B4CdEdqt6orZf-ujz=Di5KjYAHKAekuhPFq1hfgDAFg=w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <731761970.726376.1627133884098@mail.yahoo.com>

You really believe that?

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; springer.mike51 at gmail.com <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 8:18 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

"The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"
Not necessarily a good one.
Best--Michael Oritt
On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.
The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.?

Gary Hodson



On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?Mike MacLean

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

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-- 
Best--Michael
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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sat Jul 24 07:38:53 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 09:38:53 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5qLUzADh9=maWD1w0mW6-+rRQN3W3OweoJ2B3CuakUYQ@mail.gmail.com>

Michael--

Both have pluses and minuses--I simply feel that DOT 3/4 has more of the
former and fewer of the latter than does silicone, but that's just me.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Fri, Jul 23, 2021 at 5:04 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake
> system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake
> fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this
> decision?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From linwoodrose at mac.com  Sat Jul 24 13:27:18 2021
From: linwoodrose at mac.com (Linwood Rose)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 15:27:18 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Oil sump gasket/seal sealant question
Message-ID: <CC00F97F-3655-41B0-90B7-88419B04F992@mac.com>

Hello all, I apologize if this comes through twice. I am not sure that the first one got through?

I am ready to reinstall the oil sump on my son?s Bugeye that has a 1275. Not a Big Healey I know but the same knowledge base applies. I have glued the gasket/seals to the pan and will use hylomar on the gasket. What should be used on the front cork seal and the rear neoprene seal? Hylomar, silicone, grease, nothing?

Thanks very much.

Lin

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Sent from my iPad

From coudesluijs at upcmail.nl  Sat Jul 24 14:14:56 2021
From: coudesluijs at upcmail.nl (Kees Oudesluijs)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 22:14:56 +0200 (CEST)
Subject: [Healeys] Oil sump gasket/seal sealant question
Message-ID: <1202409662.324040.1627157696507@mail.ziggo.nl>

Definitely no silicone. Hylomar would be my choice and perhaps only some grease on the cork in stead of Hylomar.

Kees Oudesluijs
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 24 16:15:09 2021
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (richard mayor)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 15:15:09 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B4CdEdqt6orZf-ujz=Di5KjYAHKAekuhPFq1hfgDAFg=w@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe@me.com>
 <1485251345.715106.1627131805514@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B4CdEdqt6orZf-ujz=Di5KjYAHKAekuhPFq1hfgDAFg=w@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAKkXjqM=nggC1OJ1HS1vGGOQb-QVp36Y8LHX-vZQZMqXtaeEcQ@mail.gmail.com>

The military uses silicone because some military vehicles sit for long
periods of time when not in use..... waiting for that day when they need to
spring into action.   Silicone fluid is not the best performance wise but
because it does not accumulate moisture over time, it is best for military
vehicles that sit unused for long periods of time.

FWIW, I was in the military and I use DOT 3


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 6:19 AM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> "The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"
>
> Not necessarily a good one.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.
>> It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).
>> It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
>> A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone
>> fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.
>> The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.
>>
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>>
>> On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake
>> system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake
>> fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this
>> decision?
>> Mike MacLean
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
> --
> Best--Michael
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>
>
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sat Jul 24 17:58:00 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 16:58:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqM=nggC1OJ1HS1vGGOQb-QVp36Y8LHX-vZQZMqXtaeEcQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe@me.com>
 <1485251345.715106.1627131805514@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B4CdEdqt6orZf-ujz=Di5KjYAHKAekuhPFq1hfgDAFg=w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqM=nggC1OJ1HS1vGGOQb-QVp36Y8LHX-vZQZMqXtaeEcQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEON4tm9S4v_-oyeOqNfn01JmxKBQCx7MQwqPzxq+O1PTJA@mail.gmail.com>

Well apparently DOT 3/4 is ahead in the poll.  I have used it exclusively
in the Bugeye for over 20 years with no problems.  I was only asking to see
if there was some advantage to using the silicone over synthetic because
the BN2 has a completely new brake system which has never seen any type of
fluid yet.  This would be the time to make that decision.  I  made all the
brake lines, flares and used the original fittings when I restored the
Bugeye and there were no leaks when I filled it.  I feel reasonably sure
there won't be much of a problem with the BN2 in this respect.  So, I am
leaning towards DOT 3/4.  As an interesting aside, the local parts supplier
here in San Bernardino that has been selling British car parts and supplies
recommended Delphi brake fluid.  The low moisture Castrol we were getting
in the past no longer is made.  Today's Castrol brake fluid is made in
India according to the shop owner.  The Delphi brake fluid is supposedly
superior.  What do I know, but I bought it.

On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 3:15 PM richard mayor via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The military uses silicone because some military vehicles sit for long
> periods of time when not in use..... waiting for that day when they need to
> spring into action.   Silicone fluid is not the best performance wise but
> because it does not accumulate moisture over time, it is best for military
> vehicles that sit unused for long periods of time.
>
> FWIW, I was in the military and I use DOT 3
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 6:19 AM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> "The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"
>>
>> Not necessarily a good one.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>> I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.
>>> It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).
>>> It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
>>> A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone
>>> fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.
>>> The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.
>>>
>>> Gary Hodson
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake
>>> system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake
>>> fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this
>>> decision?
>>> Mike MacLean
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Best--Michael
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>
>
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sat Jul 24 18:36:57 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 20:36:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEON4tm9S4v_-oyeOqNfn01JmxKBQCx7MQwqPzxq+O1PTJA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEON4tm9S4v_-oyeOqNfn01JmxKBQCx7MQwqPzxq+O1PTJA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <39510B7B-7D50-488D-AC78-343E46663A4B@aol.com>

Have had DOT 3/4 in our BN2 for over 20 years this time around. Seems like the only issue I have had is replacing the rear wheel cylinders seal twice in that time. During regular inspections have found a very small leak on one side or the other and replaced seals on both sides. Front brakes and master seem to hold up better. 
P

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 24, 2021, at 7:59 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Well apparently DOT 3/4 is ahead in the poll.  I have used it exclusively in the Bugeye for over 20 years with no problems.  I was only asking to see if there was some advantage to using the silicone over synthetic because the BN2 has a completely new brake system which has never seen any type of fluid yet.  This would be the time to make that decision.  I  made all the brake lines, flares and used the original fittings when I restored the Bugeye and there were no leaks when I filled it.  I feel reasonably sure there won't be much of a problem with the BN2 in this respect.  So, I am leaning towards DOT 3/4.  As an interesting aside, the local parts supplier here in San Bernardino that has been selling British car parts and supplies recommended Delphi brake fluid.  The low moisture Castrol we were getting in the past no longer is made.  Today's Castrol brake fluid is made in India according to the shop owner.  The Delphi brake fluid is supposedly superior.  What do I know, but I bought it.
> 
>> On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 3:15 PM richard mayor via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> The military uses silicone because some military vehicles sit for long periods of time when not in use..... waiting for that day when they need to spring into action.   Silicone fluid is not the best performance wise but because it does not accumulate moisture over time, it is best for military vehicles that sit unused for long periods of time. 
>> 
>> FWIW, I was in the military and I use DOT 3
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 6:19 AM Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> "The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"
>>> 
>>> Not necessarily a good one.
>>> 
>>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>> I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.
>>>> It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).
>>>> It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
>>>> A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.
>>>> The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason. 
>>>> 
>>>> Gary Hodson
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this decision?
>>>>> Mike MacLean
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> 
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>> 
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Best--Michael
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>> 
> 
> <Delphi.jpg>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
> 
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul 24 19:00:43 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 18:00:43 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <CAKkXjqM=nggC1OJ1HS1vGGOQb-QVp36Y8LHX-vZQZMqXtaeEcQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe@me.com>
 <1485251345.715106.1627131805514@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CAPTa0B4CdEdqt6orZf-ujz=Di5KjYAHKAekuhPFq1hfgDAFg=w@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAKkXjqM=nggC1OJ1HS1vGGOQb-QVp36Y8LHX-vZQZMqXtaeEcQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <0788826c-eeb2-257c-4010-ae8d54e6e520@comcast.net>

FWIW, I've had DoT5 in my BJ8 for nearly 30 years with no issues, 
including bleeding. My dad put Lockheed DoT4 in our BN2--a complete new 
system--and it gelled when the car sat for a couple years. I tried 
Petrosin--BMW's bespoke brand--and several seals failed, with a 
crystalline residue, after just a few years. There was a thread on the 
BCF a while back on owners having failures with DoT3/4. Tom Monaco 
strongly recommends Castrol DoT4 'synthetic*' but, so far, I haven't 
been able to get a good pedal with it (I'm not blaming the fluid). Note 
DoT5 is not hygroscopic, but does need to be flushed occasionally since 
any water will pool and settle in low points.

* Some brands of BF are now calling their product 'synthetic,' which is 
odd since, AFAIK, no BF is made from naturally occurring compounds. I 
suspect this is marketing, to ride on the popularity of synthetic motor oil.


On 7/24/2021 3:15 PM, richard mayor via Healeys wrote:
> The military uses silicone because some military vehicles sit for long 
> periods of time when not in use..... waiting for that day when they 
> need to spring into action. ? Silicone fluid is not the best 
> performance wise but because it does not accumulate moisture over 
> time, it is best for military vehicles that sit unused for long 
> periods of time.
>
> FWIW, I was in the military and I use DOT 3
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 6:19 AM Michael Oritt via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>     "The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"
>
>     Not necessarily a good one.
>
>     Best--Michael Oritt
>
>     On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys
>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>         I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake
>         fluid.
>         It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).
>         It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
>         A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled
>         with silicone fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol
>         fluid by several times.
>         The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.
>
>         Gary Hodson
>
>
>
>         On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys
>         <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>>         The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed
>>         the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether
>>         to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any
>>         recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?
>>         Mike MacLean
>
>

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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul 24 19:07:40 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 18:07:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
In-Reply-To: <39510B7B-7D50-488D-AC78-343E46663A4B@aol.com>
References: <CAL4ZEON4tm9S4v_-oyeOqNfn01JmxKBQCx7MQwqPzxq+O1PTJA@mail.gmail.com>
 <39510B7B-7D50-488D-AC78-343E46663A4B@aol.com>
Message-ID: <feab8878-7185-82f5-5a98-732373f35610@comcast.net>

Delphi == Lockheed

On 7/24/2021 5:36 PM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote:
> Have had DOT 3/4 in our BN2 for over 20 years this time around. Seems 
> like the only issue I have had is replacing the rear wheel cylinders 
> seal twice in that time. During regular inspections have found a very 
> small leak on one side or the other and replaced seals on both sides. 
> Front brakes and master seem to hold up better.
> P
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jul 24, 2021, at 7:59 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys 
>> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>> ?
>> Well apparently DOT 3/4 is ahead in the poll.? I have used it 
>> exclusively in the Bugeye for over 20 years with no problems.? I was 
>> only asking to see if there was some advantage to using the silicone 
>> over synthetic because the BN2 has a completely new brake system 
>> which has never seen any type of fluid yet.? This would be the time 
>> to make that decision.? I? made all the brake lines, flares and used 
>> the original fittings when I restored the Bugeye and there were no 
>> leaks when I filled it.? I feel reasonably sure there won't be much 
>> of a problem with the BN2 in this respect.? So, I am leaning towards 
>> DOT 3/4.? As an interesting aside, the local parts supplier here in 
>> San Bernardino that has been selling British car parts and supplies 
>> recommended Delphi brake fluid.? The low moisture Castrol we were 
>> getting in the past no longer is made.? Today's Castrol brake fluid 
>> is made in India according to the shop owner.? The Delphi brake fluid 
>> is supposedly superior. What do I know, but I bought it.
>>
>> On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 3:15 PM richard mayor via Healeys 
>> <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     The military uses silicone because some military vehicles sit for
>>     long periods of time when not in use..... waiting for that day
>>     when they need to spring into action. ? Silicone fluid is not the
>>     best performance wise but because it does not accumulate moisture
>>     over time, it is best for military vehicles that sit unused for
>>     long periods of time.
>>
>>     FWIW, I was in the military and I use DOT 3
>>
>>
>>     On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 6:19 AM Michael Oritt via Healeys
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>         "The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"
>>
>>         Not necessarily a good one.
>>
>>         Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>         On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys
>>         <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>             I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone
>>             brake fluid.
>>             It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).
>>             It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
>>             A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system
>>             filled with silicone fluid should outlast a system filled
>>             with glycol fluid by several times.
>>             The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.
>>
>>             Gary Hodson
>>
>>
>>
>>             On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys
>>             <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
>>             wrote:
>>
>>>             The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and
>>>             bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to
>>>             decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try
>>>             silicone. Any recommendations, advice or warnings on
>>>             this decision?
>>>             Mike MacLean
>>

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From gmcharris at hotmail.com  Sat Jul 24 19:47:20 2021
From: gmcharris at hotmail.com (george mcharris)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 01:47:20 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Which brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1627149602.6990.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1627149602.6990.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BY5PR11MB422784A213F4703E11181FFDB5E79@BY5PR11MB4227.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

I have used silicone for years without any problems....added  plus it does not attack paint..an accidental drop can wreck on a nice paint job. Have seen comments that silicone gives a spongey feel, but not that I noticed.

________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net <healeys-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2021 11:00 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 268

Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
        healeys at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
        http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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You can reach the person managing the list at
        healeys-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Which Brake Fluid? (Michael MacLean)
   2. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Kees Oudesluijs)
   3. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Kees Oudesluijs)
   4. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Michael Salter)
   5. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Steven Kingsbury)
   6. Healey Sighting (Bob Spidell)
   7. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Tom Felts)
   8. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (warthodson at aol.com)
   9. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Michael Oritt)
  10. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Kees Oudesluijs)
  11. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (warthodson at aol.com)
  12. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Michael Oritt)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 14:03:58 -0700
From: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID:
        <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake
system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake
fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this
decision?
Mike MacLean
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 23:35:23 +0200 (CEST)
From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>, Michael MacLean via
        Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID: <847290308.312336.1627076123765 at mail.ziggo.nl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

DOT4. If you want to try silicon you would have to rebuild your entire hydraulic circuit and fit all new rubber components. It may sometimes work without a rebuild or it may fail as DOT4 and DOT5 (silicon) are not compatible and do not mix.

What your life (and others) worth??

Kees Oudesluijs
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 23:44:24 +0200 (CEST)
From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>, Michael MacLean via
        Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID: <1867776020.312388.1627076664916 at mail.ziggo.nl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Sorry, did not read the question properly.

In a new system you have the choice obviously.

I would go for DOT4, which absorbs water, and change that every two years. That will get rid of any moisture getting into your system before it can do any harm. It also forces you to check the system when you replace the fluid. It is cheap and available anywhere.

The problem with silicon brake fluid is that it does not absorb water. Water will always enter the system because of condensation in the brake fluid reservoir. This moisture can than settle in the lower parts of the system and cause havoc unnoticed until it leaks.


Kees Oudesluijs
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 17:52:37 -0400
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
Cc: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>,  Michael MacLean via
        Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID:
        <CAB3i7L+fj0-n9ms+P4=Coe=QFUdHyPEMyiwk75sdq64gkWPrSA at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

In this instance I  agree with Kees.
The decision comes down to personal preference IMHO.

M

On Fri., Jul. 23, 2021, 5:48 p.m. Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Sorry, did not read the question properly.
>
> In a new system you have the choice obviously.
>
> I would go for DOT4, which absorbs water, and change that every two years.
> That will get rid of any moisture getting into your system before it can do
> any harm. It also forces you to check the system when you replace the
> fluid. It is cheap and available anywhere.
>
> The problem with silicon brake fluid is that it does not absorb water.
> Water will always enter the system because of condensation in the brake
> fluid reservoir. This moisture can than settle in the lower parts of the
> system and cause havoc unnoticed until it leaks.
>
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 23:29:48 -0000
From: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at icloud.com>
To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID: <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe at me.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

I'm with everyone else I've read so far; DOT 4. Simple and it works.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1

On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?
Mike MacLean
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com

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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 20:26:15 -0700
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting
Message-ID: <c2ed5095-f375-2468-ac4f-d58cf6265e6c at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

I think they're listening to Apollo 11 on the radio.


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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 05:28:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
To: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at icloud.com>
Cc: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>,
        healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID:
        <2133467853.110536294.1627118936470.JavaMail.zimbra at windstream.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I have been using DOT 5 in my BJ8 for years.  Works fine for me.
----- Original Message -----
From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 19:29:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

I'm with everyone else I've read so far; DOT 4. Simple and it works.Steven KingsburyBN1
On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this decision?Mike MacLean_______________________________________________
Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com


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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 13:03:25 +0000 (UTC)
From: warthodson at aol.com
To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>,
        "springer.mike51 at gmail.com" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID: <1485251345.715106.1627131805514 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.
The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.?

Gary Hodson



On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?Mike MacLean

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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 09:18:38 -0400
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>,
        "springer.mike51 at gmail.com" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID:
        <CAPTa0B4CdEdqt6orZf-ujz=Di5KjYAHKAekuhPFq1hfgDAFg=w at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

"The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"

Not necessarily a good one.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.
> It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).
> It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
> A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone
> fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.
> The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.
>
> Gary Hodson
>
>
>
> On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake
> system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake
> fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this
> decision?
> Mike MacLean
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

--
Best--Michael
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 15:33:05 +0200 (CEST)
From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>, Michael Oritt via Healeys
        <healeys at autox.team.net>, warthodson at aol.com
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID: <1204316342.319344.1627133585866 at mail.ziggo.nl>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Perhaps the military also specify corrosion proof/lined/SS hydraulic parts??
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 13:38:04 +0000 (UTC)
From: warthodson at aol.com
To: "michael.oritt at gmail.com" <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>,
        "springer.mike51 at gmail.com" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID: <731761970.726376.1627133884098 at mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

You really believe that?

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: warthodson at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; springer.mike51 at gmail.com <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 8:18 am
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

"The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"
Not necessarily a good one.
Best--Michael Oritt
On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.
The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.?

Gary Hodson



On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?Mike MacLean

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com




--
Best--Michael
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 09:38:53 -0400
From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
Message-ID:
        <CAPTa0B5qLUzADh9=maWD1w0mW6-+rRQN3W3OweoJ2B3CuakUYQ at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Michael--

Both have pluses and minuses--I simply feel that DOT 3/4 has more of the
former and fewer of the latter than does silicone, but that's just me.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Fri, Jul 23, 2021 at 5:04 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake
> system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake
> fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this
> decision?
> Mike MacLean
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

--
Best--Michael
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Subject: Digest Footer

_______________________________________________
Healeys mailing list
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive



------------------------------

End of Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 268
****************************************
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From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Jul 25 04:56:46 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 06:56:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Which brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <BY5PR11MB422784A213F4703E11181FFDB5E79@BY5PR11MB4227.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <mailman.3.1627149602.6990.healeys@autox.team.net>
 <BY5PR11MB422784A213F4703E11181FFDB5E79@BY5PR11MB4227.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1141514359.114454863.1627210606737.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

ditto
----- Original Message -----
From: george mcharris via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 21:47:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which brake fluid

 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} 
I have used silicone for years without any problems....added  plus it does not attack paint..an accidental drop can wreck on a nice paint job. Have seen comments that silicone gives a spongey feel, but not that I noticed.

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net <healeys-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2021 11:00 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 268 Send Healeys mailing list submissions to

        healeys at autox.team.net


To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit

        http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific

than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."



Today's Topics:


   1. Which Brake Fluid? (Michael MacLean)

   2. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Kees Oudesluijs)

   3. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Kees Oudesluijs)

   4. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Michael Salter)

   5. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Steven Kingsbury)

   6. Healey Sighting (Bob Spidell)

   7. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Tom Felts)

   8. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (warthodson at aol.com)

   9. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Michael Oritt)

  10. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Kees Oudesluijs)

  11. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (warthodson at aol.com)

  12. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Michael Oritt)



----------------------------------------------------------------------


Message: 1

Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 14:03:58 -0700

From: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>

To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>

Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

Message-ID:

        <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ at mail.gmail.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake

system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake

fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this

decision?

Mike MacLean

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Message: 2

Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 23:35:23 +0200 (CEST)

From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>

To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>, Michael MacLean via

        Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

Message-ID: <847290308.312336.1627076123765 at mail.ziggo.nl>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


DOT4. If you want to try silicon you would have to rebuild your entire hydraulic circuit and fit all new rubber components. It may sometimes work without a rebuild or it may fail as DOT4 and DOT5 (silicon) are not compatible and do not mix.


What your life (and others) worth??


Kees Oudesluijs

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Message: 3

Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 23:44:24 +0200 (CEST)

From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>

To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>, Michael MacLean via

        Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

Message-ID: <1867776020.312388.1627076664916 at mail.ziggo.nl>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


Sorry, did not read the question properly.


In a new system you have the choice obviously.


I would go for DOT4, which absorbs water, and change that every two years. That will get rid of any moisture getting into your system before it can do any harm. It also forces you to check the system when you replace the fluid. It is cheap and available anywhere.


The problem with silicon brake fluid is that it does not absorb water. Water will always enter the system because of condensation in the brake fluid reservoir. This moisture can than settle in the lower parts of the system and cause havoc unnoticed until it
 leaks.



Kees Oudesluijs

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Message: 4

Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 17:52:37 -0400

From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>

To: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>

Cc: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>,  Michael MacLean via

        Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

Message-ID:

        <CAB3i7L+fj0-n9ms+P4=Coe=QFUdHyPEMyiwk75sdq64gkWPrSA at mail.gmail.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


In this instance I  agree with Kees.

The decision comes down to personal preference IMHO.


M


On Fri., Jul. 23, 2021, 5:48 p.m. Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys, <

healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


> Sorry, did not read the question properly.

>

> In a new system you have the choice obviously.

>

> I would go for DOT4, which absorbs water, and change that every two years.

> That will get rid of any moisture getting into your system before it can do

> any harm. It also forces you to check the system when you replace the

> fluid. It is cheap and available anywhere.

>

> The problem with silicon brake fluid is that it does not absorb water.

> Water will always enter the system because of condensation in the brake

> fluid reservoir. This moisture can than settle in the lower parts of the

> system and cause havoc unnoticed until it leaks.

>

>

> Kees Oudesluijs

> _______________________________________________

> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

> Suggested annual donation  $12.75

>

> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys

> http://autox.team.net/archive

>

> Healeys at autox.team.net

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

>

> Unsubscribe/Manage:

> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com

>

>

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Message: 5

Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 23:29:48 -0000

From: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at icloud.com>

To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>

Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

Message-ID: <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe at me.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"


I'm with everyone else I've read so far; DOT 4. Simple and it works.

Steven Kingsbury

BN1


On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:



The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?

Mike MacLean

_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation $12.75


Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive


Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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Message: 6

Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 20:26:15 -0700

From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>

To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>

Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting

Message-ID: <c2ed5095-f375-2468-ac4f-d58cf6265e6c at comcast.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"


I think they're listening to Apollo 11 on the radio.



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Message: 7

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 05:28:56 -0400 (EDT)

From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>

To: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at icloud.com>

Cc: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>,

        healeys at autox.team.net

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

Message-ID:

        <2133467853.110536294.1627118936470.JavaMail.zimbra at windstream.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


I have been using DOT 5 in my BJ8 for years.  Works fine for me.

----- Original Message -----

From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>

To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>

Cc: healeys at autox.team.net

Sent: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 19:29:48 -0400 (EDT)

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?


I'm with everyone else I've read so far; DOT 4. Simple and it works.Steven KingsburyBN1

On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this decision?Mike MacLean_______________________________________________

Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation $12.75


Archive: 
http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive


Healeys at autox.team.net
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Message: 8

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 13:03:25 +0000 (UTC)

From: warthodson at aol.com

To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>,

        "springer.mike51 at gmail.com" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>

Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

Message-ID: <1485251345.715106.1627131805514 at mail.yahoo.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.

A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.

The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.?


Gary Hodson




On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:



The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?Mike MacLean


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Message: 9

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 09:18:38 -0400

From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>

To: warthodson at aol.com

Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>,

        "springer.mike51 at gmail.com" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

Message-ID:

        <CAPTa0B4CdEdqt6orZf-ujz=Di5KjYAHKAekuhPFq1hfgDAFg=w at mail.gmail.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


"The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"


Not necessarily a good one.


Best--Michael Oritt


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <

healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


> I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.

> It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).

> It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.

> A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone

> fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.

> The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.

>

> Gary Hodson

>

>

>

> On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <

> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

>

> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake

> system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake

> fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this

> decision?

> Mike MacLean

>

>

> _______________________________________________

> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

> Suggested annual donation  $12.75

>

> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys

> http://autox.team.net/archive

>

> Healeys at autox.team.net

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

>

> Unsubscribe/Manage:

> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

>

>


-- 

Best--Michael

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Message: 10

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 15:33:05 +0200 (CEST)

From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>

To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>, Michael Oritt via Healeys

        <healeys at autox.team.net>, warthodson at aol.com

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

Message-ID: <1204316342.319344.1627133585866 at mail.ziggo.nl>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


Perhaps the military also specify corrosion proof/lined/SS hydraulic parts??

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Message: 11

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 13:38:04 +0000 (UTC)

From: warthodson at aol.com

To: "michael.oritt at gmail.com" <michael.oritt at gmail.com>

Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>,

        "springer.mike51 at gmail.com" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

Message-ID: <731761970.726376.1627133884098 at mail.yahoo.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


You really believe that?


-----Original Message-----

From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>

To: warthodson at aol.com

Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; springer.mike51 at gmail.com <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>

Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 8:18 am

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?


"The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"

Not necessarily a good one.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.

A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.

The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.?


Gary Hodson




On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:



The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?Mike MacLean


_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

Suggested annual donation? $12.75


Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive


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-- 

Best--Michael

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Message: 12

Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 09:38:53 -0400

From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>

To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>

Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>

Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?

Message-ID:

        <CAPTa0B5qLUzADh9=maWD1w0mW6-+rRQN3W3OweoJ2B3CuakUYQ at mail.gmail.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"


Michael--


Both have pluses and minuses--I simply feel that DOT 3/4 has more of the

former and fewer of the latter than does silicone, but that's just me.


Best--Michael Oritt


On Fri, Jul 23, 2021 at 5:04 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <

healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake

> system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake

> fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this

> decision?

> Mike MacLean

> _______________________________________________

> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html

> Suggested annual donation  $12.75

>

> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys

> http://autox.team.net/archive

>

> Healeys at autox.team.net

> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

>

> Unsubscribe/Manage:

> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com

>

>


-- 

Best--Michael

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Subject: Digest Footer


_______________________________________________

Healeys mailing list

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys


archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive




------------------------------


End of Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 268

****************************************


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From fsufan1952 at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 25 07:05:27 2021
From: fsufan1952 at yahoo.com (fsufan1952 at yahoo.com)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 09:05:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Which brake fluid
In-Reply-To: <1141514359.114454863.1627210606737.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <1141514359.114454863.1627210606737.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <5DA72834-98F3-4753-86B2-297B4AA0E8C8@yahoo.com>

When I did my restoration 9 years ago on my 67 BJ-8  I replaced all my brake lines with SS lines . 2 new rear wheel cylinders . Had the front calipers rebuilt along with my brake booster . Everything on the Hydraulic system either new or rebuilt. 
Then I filled it up with silicone brake fluid. Then I moved to Fl. Around 3,000 miles later , no problems no sponginess in the brake pedal. Or clutch pedal. I would do it again on another complete rebuild, if that ever happened ? . 
         Don 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 25, 2021, at 6:57 AM, Tom Felts via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> ditto
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: george mcharris via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 21:47:20 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which brake fluid
> 
> 
> I have used silicone for years without any problems....added  plus it does not attack paint..an accidental drop can wreck on a nice paint job. Have seen comments that silicone gives a spongey feel, but not that I noticed.
> 
> 
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request at autox.team.net <healeys-request at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, July 24, 2021 11:00 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 268
>  
> Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
> 
>         healeys at autox.team.net
> 
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> 
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> 
>         healeys-request at autox.team.net
> 
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 
>         healeys-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> 
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> 
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
> 
>    1. Which Brake Fluid? (Michael MacLean)
> 
>    2. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Kees Oudesluijs)
> 
>    3. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Kees Oudesluijs)
> 
>    4. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Michael Salter)
> 
>    5. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Steven Kingsbury)
> 
>    6. Healey Sighting (Bob Spidell)
> 
>    7. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Tom Felts)
> 
>    8. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (warthodson at aol.com)
> 
>    9. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Michael Oritt)
> 
>   10. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Kees Oudesluijs)
> 
>   11. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (warthodson at aol.com)
> 
>   12. Re: Which Brake Fluid? (Michael Oritt)
> 
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 
> Message: 1
> 
> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 14:03:58 -0700
> 
> From: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> 
> To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> Subject: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> Message-ID:
> 
>         <CAL4ZEONGjf41c0rSmzX+nTVPHgBAOV=RjCjRUwkXLOzQtqWqGQ at mail.gmail.com>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake
> 
> system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake
> 
> fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this
> 
> decision?
> 
> Mike MacLean
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> 
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> 
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20210723/1f5962f7/attachment-0001.htm>
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Message: 2
> 
> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 23:35:23 +0200 (CEST)
> 
> From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
> 
> To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>, Michael MacLean via
> 
>         Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> Message-ID: <847290308.312336.1627076123765 at mail.ziggo.nl>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> DOT4. If you want to try silicon you would have to rebuild your entire hydraulic circuit and fit all new rubber components. It may sometimes work without a rebuild or it may fail as DOT4 and DOT5 (silicon) are not compatible and do not mix.
> 
> 
> What your life (and others) worth??
> 
> 
> Kees Oudesluijs
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Message: 3
> 
> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 23:44:24 +0200 (CEST)
> 
> From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
> 
> To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>, Michael MacLean via
> 
>         Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> Message-ID: <1867776020.312388.1627076664916 at mail.ziggo.nl>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> Sorry, did not read the question properly.
> 
> 
> In a new system you have the choice obviously.
> 
> 
> I would go for DOT4, which absorbs water, and change that every two years. That will get rid of any moisture getting into your system before it can do any harm. It also forces you to check the system when you replace the fluid. It is cheap and available anywhere.
> 
> 
> The problem with silicon brake fluid is that it does not absorb water. Water will always enter the system because of condensation in the brake fluid reservoir. This moisture can than settle in the lower parts of the system and cause havoc unnoticed until it
> leaks.
> 
> 
> 
> Kees Oudesluijs
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Message: 4
> 
> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 17:52:37 -0400
> 
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> 
> To: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
> 
> Cc: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>,  Michael MacLean via
> 
>         Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> Message-ID:
> 
>         <CAB3i7L+fj0-n9ms+P4=Coe=QFUdHyPEMyiwk75sdq64gkWPrSA at mail.gmail.com>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> In this instance I  agree with Kees.
> 
> The decision comes down to personal preference IMHO.
> 
> 
> M
> 
> 
> On Fri., Jul. 23, 2021, 5:48 p.m. Kees Oudesluijs via Healeys, <
> 
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> > Sorry, did not read the question properly.
> 
> >
> 
> > In a new system you have the choice obviously.
> 
> >
> 
> > I would go for DOT4, which absorbs water, and change that every two years.
> 
> > That will get rid of any moisture getting into your system before it can do
> 
> > any harm. It also forces you to check the system when you replace the
> 
> > fluid. It is cheap and available anywhere.
> 
> >
> 
> > The problem with silicon brake fluid is that it does not absorb water.
> 
> > Water will always enter the system because of condensation in the brake
> 
> > fluid reservoir. This moisture can than settle in the lower parts of the
> 
> > system and cause havoc unnoticed until it leaks.
> 
> >
> 
> >
> 
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> 
> > _______________________________________________
> 
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> >
> 
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> 
> > http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> >
> 
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> 
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> >
> 
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> 
> > 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
> 
> >
> 
> >
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Message: 5
> 
> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 23:29:48 -0000
> 
> From: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at icloud.com>
> 
> To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> 
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> Message-ID: <a28a63a4-2605-4547-96f5-9e12fa066efe at me.com>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> 
> I'm with everyone else I've read so far; DOT 4. Simple and it works.
> 
> Steven Kingsbury
> 
> BN1
> 
> 
> On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?
> 
> Mike MacLean
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> 
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com
> 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Message: 6
> 
> Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 20:26:15 -0700
> 
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> 
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> Subject: [Healeys] Healey Sighting
> 
> Message-ID: <c2ed5095-f375-2468-ac4f-d58cf6265e6c at comcast.net>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
> 
> 
> I think they're listening to Apollo 11 on the radio.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Message: 7
> 
> Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 05:28:56 -0400 (EDT)
> 
> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> 
> To: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at icloud.com>
> 
> Cc: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>,
> 
>         healeys at autox.team.net
> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> Message-ID:
> 
>         <2133467853.110536294.1627118936470.JavaMail.zimbra at windstream.net>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> I have been using DOT 5 in my BJ8 for years.  Works fine for me.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> 
> From: Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> 
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
> 
> Sent: Fri, 23 Jul 2021 19:29:48 -0400 (EDT)
> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> 
> I'm with everyone else I've read so far; DOT 4. Simple and it works.Steven KingsburyBN1
> 
> On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this decision?Mike MacLean_______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> 
> 
> Archive: 
> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com
> 
> 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> 
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Message: 8
> 
> Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 13:03:25 +0000 (UTC)
> 
> From: warthodson at aol.com
> 
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>,
> 
>         "springer.mike51 at gmail.com" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> 
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> Message-ID: <1485251345.715106.1627131805514 at mail.yahoo.com>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
> 
> A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.
> 
> The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.?
> 
> 
> Gary Hodson
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?Mike MacLean
> 
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> 
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Message: 9
> 
> Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 09:18:38 -0400
> 
> From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> 
> To: warthodson at aol.com
> 
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>,
> 
>         "springer.mike51 at gmail.com" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> Message-ID:
> 
>         <CAPTa0B4CdEdqt6orZf-ujz=Di5KjYAHKAekuhPFq1hfgDAFg=w at mail.gmail.com>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> "The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"
> 
> 
> Not necessarily a good one.
> 
> 
> Best--Michael Oritt
> 
> 
> On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
> 
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> > I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.
> 
> > It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).
> 
> > It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
> 
> > A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone
> 
> > fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.
> 
> > The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.
> 
> >
> 
> > Gary Hodson
> 
> >
> 
> >
> 
> >
> 
> > On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <
> 
> > healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> >
> 
> > The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake
> 
> > system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake
> 
> > fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this
> 
> > decision?
> 
> > Mike MacLean
> 
> >
> 
> >
> 
> > _______________________________________________
> 
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> >
> 
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> 
> > http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> >
> 
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> 
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> >
> 
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> 
> > 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> 
> >
> 
> >
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> Best--Michael
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Message: 10
> 
> Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 15:33:05 +0200 (CEST)
> 
> From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at upcmail.nl>
> 
> To: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>, Michael Oritt via Healeys
> 
>         <healeys at autox.team.net>, warthodson at aol.com
> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> Message-ID: <1204316342.319344.1627133585866 at mail.ziggo.nl>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> Perhaps the military also specify corrosion proof/lined/SS hydraulic parts??
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Message: 11
> 
> Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 13:38:04 +0000 (UTC)
> 
> From: warthodson at aol.com
> 
> To: "michael.oritt at gmail.com" <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> 
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>,
> 
>         "springer.mike51 at gmail.com" <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> Message-ID: <731761970.726376.1627133884098 at mail.yahoo.com>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> You really believe that?
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> 
> To: warthodson at aol.com
> 
> Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>; springer.mike51 at gmail.com <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> 
> Sent: Sat, Jul 24, 2021 8:18 am
> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> 
> "The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason"
> 
> Not necessarily a good one.
> 
> Best--Michael Oritt
> 
> On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 9:04 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> I would like to say a few words on behalf of silicone brake fluid.It is non-hygroscopic (does not absorb moisture).It does not damage paint as do glycol fluids.
> 
> A newly rebuilt and scrupulously clean brake system filled with silicone fluid should outlast a system filled with glycol fluid by several times.
> 
> The military specifies Silicone brake fluid for a reason.?
> 
> 
> Gary Hodson
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On July 23, 2021 at 2:05 PM, Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake system.? Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake fluid or try silicone.? Any recommendations,? advice or warnings on this decision?Mike MacLean
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> Best--Michael
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Message: 12
> 
> Date: Sat, 24 Jul 2021 09:38:53 -0400
> 
> From: Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
> 
> To: Michael MacLean <springer.mike51 at gmail.com>
> 
> Cc: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
> 
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Which Brake Fluid?
> 
> Message-ID:
> 
>         <CAPTa0B5qLUzADh9=maWD1w0mW6-+rRQN3W3OweoJ2B3CuakUYQ at mail.gmail.com>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> 
> Michael--
> 
> 
> Both have pluses and minuses--I simply feel that DOT 3/4 has more of the
> 
> former and fewer of the latter than does silicone, but that's just me.
> 
> 
> Best--Michael Oritt
> 
> 
> On Fri, Jul 23, 2021 at 5:04 PM Michael MacLean via Healeys <
> 
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> > The BN2 is at the point where it is time to fill and bleed the new brake
> 
> > system.  Now comes the time to decide whether to go with DOT 3/4 brake
> 
> > fluid or try silicone.  Any recommendations,  advice or warnings on this
> 
> > decision?
> 
> > Mike MacLean
> 
> > _______________________________________________
> 
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> >
> 
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> 
> > http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> >
> 
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> 
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> >
> 
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> 
> > 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
> 
> >
> 
> >
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> Best--Michael
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Healeys mailing list
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> 
> archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> 
> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 268
> 
> ****************************************
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fsufan1952 at yahoo.com
> 
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Jul 25 12:39:15 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 11:39:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?
Message-ID: <4568C3D9-5343-4EC1-BFE5-AF7EDD5F4EA9@hxcore.ol>

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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 25 13:06:15 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 19:06:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?
In-Reply-To: <4568C3D9-5343-4EC1-BFE5-AF7EDD5F4EA9@hxcore.ol>
References: <4568C3D9-5343-4EC1-BFE5-AF7EDD5F4EA9@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB2507D594323EA9AAF7604E9FD1E79@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

The washers are made of steel.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Harold Manifold via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: July 25, 2021 1:40 PM
To: Ken Fleming via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?

Hello,

I am getting ready to install the rubber fender and hood buffers. I have copper split rivets but what material should the washers be? These are quite visible when the hood is opened so I would like to get it right. All of the original washers used on my 1960 BT7 were zinc plated steel but I have read the washers should be copper.
The attached picture is one of the fender buffers but I assume all of the washers should be the same.

I would appreciate any advise for my car.

Harold


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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 25 13:09:59 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 15:09:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Oil sump gasket/seal sealant question
In-Reply-To: <CC00F97F-3655-41B0-90B7-88419B04F992@mac.com>
References: <CC00F97F-3655-41B0-90B7-88419B04F992@mac.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B68i1T=j4RTK_v0Ouw+yA4piHaV5yfW+Kd2WaiaDyW4jA@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Lin--

What works best for me is to glue the sump/valve cover gaskets to the
sump/head with 3M yellow brush-on contact cement and to use a non-hardening
sealant such as Hylomar on the top surfaces.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 3:28 PM Linwood Rose via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hello all, I apologize if this comes through twice. I am not sure that the
> first one got through?
>
> I am ready to reinstall the oil sump on my son?s Bugeye that has a 1275.
> Not a Big Healey I know but the same knowledge base applies. I have glued
> the gasket/seals to the pan and will use hylomar on the gasket. What should
> be used on the front cork seal and the rear neoprene seal? Hylomar,
> silicone, grease, nothing?
>
> Thanks very much.
>
> Lin
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun Jul 25 13:34:22 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 15:34:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB2507D594323EA9AAF7604E9FD1E79@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <4568C3D9-5343-4EC1-BFE5-AF7EDD5F4EA9@hxcore.ol>
 <DM6PR17MB2507D594323EA9AAF7604E9FD1E79@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LJm3S-S6YLxCjHwZtgUAC74ChkVQYCRc97U+XAYEN7jGw@mail.gmail.com>

Yes I  believe that Jean is correct however I  think originally they were
copper plated.

M

On Sun., Jul. 25, 2021, 3:07 p.m. Jean Caron via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The washers are made of steel.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *July 25, 2021 1:40 PM
> *To: *Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
>
>
> I am getting ready to install the rubber fender and hood buffers. I have
> copper split rivets but what material should the washers be? These are
> quite visible when the hood is opened so I would like to get it right. All
> of the original washers used on my 1960 BT7 were zinc plated steel but I
> have read the washers should be copper.
>
> The attached picture is one of the fender buffers but I assume all of the
> washers should be the same.
>
>
>
> I would appreciate any advise for my car.
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
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From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 25 13:37:19 2021
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 19:37:19 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LJm3S-S6YLxCjHwZtgUAC74ChkVQYCRc97U+XAYEN7jGw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4568C3D9-5343-4EC1-BFE5-AF7EDD5F4EA9@hxcore.ol>
 <DM6PR17MB2507D594323EA9AAF7604E9FD1E79@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>,
 <CAB3i7LJm3S-S6YLxCjHwZtgUAC74ChkVQYCRc97U+XAYEN7jGw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DM6PR17MB25070BA680B3BEC929FFF36FD1E79@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>

I got the information from the Concours Guide, it indicated they were steel. I agree that they would look better in copper, not sure why they would not have come that way originally.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Michael Salter<mailto:michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Sent: July 25, 2021 2:34 PM
To: Jean Caron<mailto:vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
Cc: Harold Manifold<mailto:manifold at telus.net>; Ken Fleming via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?

Yes I  believe that Jean is correct however I  think originally they were copper plated.

M

On Sun., Jul. 25, 2021, 3:07 p.m. Jean Caron via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
The washers are made of steel.

Jean

Sent from Mail<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986&data=04%7C01%7C%7C20e39ff552ae419463d208d94fa33ba4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637628384759993691%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=2Mke4JjWmhnacuaTLSq8Gs4xCOY0hWCVuZFtcgnpfOE%3D&reserved=0> for Windows 10

From: Harold Manifold via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: July 25, 2021 1:40 PM
To: Ken Fleming via Healeys<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?

Hello,

I am getting ready to install the rubber fender and hood buffers. I have copper split rivets but what material should the washers be? These are quite visible when the hood is opened so I would like to get it right. All of the original washers used on my 1960 BT7 were zinc plated steel but I have read the washers should be copper.
The attached picture is one of the fender buffers but I assume all of the washers should be the same.

I would appreciate any advise for my car.

Harold


_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fdonate.html&data=04%7C01%7C%7C20e39ff552ae419463d208d94fa33ba4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637628384760003684%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=HZCIAz4vFo%2FirjVHMLCjwx0Hfj93u2sd4fRFejRBPUA%3D&reserved=0>
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.team.net%2Fpipermail%2Fhealeys&data=04%7C01%7C%7C20e39ff552ae419463d208d94fa33ba4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637628384760003684%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=PtBccQwVWj00qoGCHAo7QQ%2F0tqdxYJq00wACz1qFvvw%3D&reserved=0> http://autox.team.net/archive<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fautox.team.net%2Farchive&data=04%7C01%7C%7C20e39ff552ae419463d208d94fa33ba4%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%7C0%7C637628384760013683%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000&sdata=1%2FtxIsn3SfvrLqNE37z0DkfYh%2BB0CjIM%2BEbUrI3UE6A%3D&reserved=0>

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From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun Jul 25 14:51:57 2021
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 16:51:57 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB2507D594323EA9AAF7604E9FD1E79@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <4568C3D9-5343-4EC1-BFE5-AF7EDD5F4EA9@hxcore.ol>
 <DM6PR17MB2507D594323EA9AAF7604E9FD1E79@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7j-+s_q6N9y6OJfbUU+K5wk-ZePg=q8xOLYZ6yRHh_XA@mail.gmail.com>

Putting originality considerations aside I would vote for using copper
washers with copper rivets.
There is no "load" placed on the washers calling for a stronger
materiaI such as steel and using metals with same or similar galvanic
values is always good practice.

On Sun, Jul 25, 2021 at 3:06 PM Jean Caron via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The washers are made of steel.
>
>
>
> Jean
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Harold Manifold via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent: *July 25, 2021 1:40 PM
> *To: *Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *[Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
>
>
> I am getting ready to install the rubber fender and hood buffers. I have
> copper split rivets but what material should the washers be? These are
> quite visible when the hood is opened so I would like to get it right. All
> of the original washers used on my 1960 BT7 were zinc plated steel but I
> have read the washers should be copper.
>
> The attached picture is one of the fender buffers but I assume all of the
> washers should be the same.
>
>
>
> I would appreciate any advise for my car.
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>

-- 
Best--Michael
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From healeyguy at aol.com  Sun Jul 25 14:56:31 2021
From: healeyguy at aol.com (Perry Small)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 16:56:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?
In-Reply-To: <DM6PR17MB25070BA680B3BEC929FFF36FD1E79@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
References: <DM6PR17MB25070BA680B3BEC929FFF36FD1E79@DM6PR17MB2507.namprd17.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1FA331CA-A890-438E-A975-4A6BC7378AE8@aol.com>

Magnet test on very old original buffers show rivets not iron, washers are. Color of washer not determined. To much rust!
P

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 25, 2021, at 3:38 PM, Jean Caron via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I got the information from the Concours Guide, it indicated they were steel. I agree that they would look better in copper, not sure why they would not have come that way originally.
>  
> Jean
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Michael Salter
> Sent: July 25, 2021 2:34 PM
> To: Jean Caron
> Cc: Harold Manifold; Ken Fleming via Healeys
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?
>  
> Yes I  believe that Jean is correct however I  think originally they were copper plated.
>  
> M
>  
> On Sun., Jul. 25, 2021, 3:07 p.m. Jean Caron via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> The washers are made of steel.
>  
> Jean
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Harold Manifold via Healeys
> Sent: July 25, 2021 1:40 PM
> To: Ken Fleming via Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Washers for Rubber Buffers?
>  
> Hello,
>  
> I am getting ready to install the rubber fender and hood buffers. I have copper split rivets but what material should the washers be? These are quite visible when the hood is opened so I would like to get it right. All of the original washers used on my 1960 BT7 were zinc plated steel but I have read the washers should be copper.
> The attached picture is one of the fender buffers but I assume all of the washers should be the same.
>  
> I would appreciate any advise for my car.
>  
> Harold
>  
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
> 
>  
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyguy at aol.com
> 
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From garyandersonmm at gmail.com  Sun Jul 25 16:36:58 2021
From: garyandersonmm at gmail.com (Gary Anderson)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 15:36:58 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid -- Silicone vs. glycol
Message-ID: <CAO-Hfn-e4qioEy_ez11QYfYehAmgoXCPbH+96Lq5RTknQZso=A@mail.gmail.com>

Having co-authored the book on restoration of Austin-Healeys and been
involved in classic cars for over 30 years, I've confronted this question
in many forms and many times. I've talked to vintage racers and great
collections managers on whose decisions thousands of dollars and human
lives can depend.
Out of all this, the simple neutral answer depends on how you will use the
car.

Assuming you've replaced the complete brake system AND all seals and
gaskets, then:

If you use your classic car regularly and maintain it carefully, then by
all means use glycol-based fluid and change it at least every two years
(more frequently if you're racing and/or doing long tours).

If you don't use your classic car regularly -- it's parked for months on
end or used for display and show rather than regular driving and touring --
then use silicone fluid.

Regarding the proviso above, if you're not changing gaskets and seals, then
use whatever fluid was used before, but with glycol replace it every two
years at minimum and with silicone, check the level frequently and top up
as necessary.

Let me know if you can find a classic collection manager or racing driver
who will disagree with that answer.

Best
Gary Anderson
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sun Jul 25 17:13:22 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 16:13:22 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid -- Silicone vs. glycol
In-Reply-To: <CAO-Hfn-e4qioEy_ez11QYfYehAmgoXCPbH+96Lq5RTknQZso=A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn-e4qioEy_ez11QYfYehAmgoXCPbH+96Lq5RTknQZso=A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1d416634-5989-373c-26d4-93e4c4563550@comcast.net>

I'd add that DoT5/Silicone BF should be flushed occasionally (like, 
every 5-10 years). It doesn't absorb moisture, but supposedly water can 
pool in low spots (you'll get some condesation in the reservoir every 
time you check the level). I usually have to do something to my brake 
systems that often anyway. I've noticed that DoT5, which is purple 
coming out of the bottle, turns clear/amber near the wheels where, of 
course, heat is generated.

bs

ps. I've followed several threads where owners are reporting 
crystallization or gelling of Dot3/4, and no one has come up with a 
definitive cause.



On 7/25/2021 3:36 PM, Gary Anderson via Healeys wrote:
> Having co-authored the book on restoration of Austin-Healeys and been 
> involved in classic cars for over 30 years, I've confronted this 
> question in many forms and many times. I've talked to vintage racers 
> and great collections managers on whose decisions thousands of dollars 
> and human lives can depend.
> Out of all this, the simple neutral answer depends on how you will use 
> the car.
>
> Assuming you've replaced the complete brake system AND all seals and 
> gaskets, then:
>
> If you use your classic car regularly and maintain it carefully, then 
> by all means use glycol-based fluid and change it at least every two 
> years (more frequently if you're racing and/or doing long tours).
>
> If you don't use your classic car regularly -- it's parked for months 
> on end or used for display and show rather than regular driving and 
> touring -- then use silicone fluid.
>
> Regarding the proviso above, if you're not changing gaskets and seals, 
> then use whatever fluid was used before, but with glycol replace it 
> every two years at minimum and with silicone, check the level 
> frequently and top up as necessary.
>
> Let me know if you can find a classic collection manager or racing 
> driver who will disagree with that answer.
>
> Best
> Gary Anderson
>


From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Jul 25 18:14:00 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 20:14:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid -- Silicone vs. glycol
In-Reply-To: <CAO-Hfn-e4qioEy_ez11QYfYehAmgoXCPbH+96Lq5RTknQZso=A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAO-Hfn-e4qioEy_ez11QYfYehAmgoXCPbH+96Lq5RTknQZso=A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <800297037.116695354.1627258440349.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

I have used silicone in my Healey and E-Type for years and do lots of driving in them.  The only problem o had was not changing it when I should and the water pooled in the caliper pistons and they ultimately froze due to rust. 
----- Original Message -----
From: Gary Anderson via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 18:36:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid -- Silicone vs. glycol

Having co-authored the book on restoration of Austin-Healeys and been
involved in classic cars for over 30 years, I've confronted this question
in many forms and many times. I've talked to vintage racers and great
collections managers on whose decisions thousands of dollars and human
lives can depend.
Out of all this, the simple neutral answer depends on how you will use the
car.

Assuming you've replaced the complete brake system AND all seals and
gaskets, then:

If you use your classic car regularly and maintain it carefully, then by
all means use glycol-based fluid and change it at least every two years
(more frequently if you're racing and/or doing long tours).

If you don't use your classic car regularly -- it's parked for months on
end or used for display and show rather than regular driving and touring --
then use silicone fluid.

Regarding the proviso above, if you're not changing gaskets and seals, then
use whatever fluid was used before, but with glycol replace it every two
years at minimum and with silicone, check the level frequently and top up
as necessary.

Let me know if you can find a classic collection manager or racing driver
who will disagree with that answer.

Best
Gary Anderson


From tomfelts at windstream.net  Sun Jul 25 18:16:20 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 20:16:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] Oil sump gasket/seal sealant question
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B68i1T=j4RTK_v0Ouw+yA4piHaV5yfW+Kd2WaiaDyW4jA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CC00F97F-3655-41B0-90B7-88419B04F992@mac.com>
 <CAPTa0B68i1T=j4RTK_v0Ouw+yA4piHaV5yfW+Kd2WaiaDyW4jA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <916079202.116702698.1627258580771.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

Missed you at the PVGP this weekend!! It was well attended.
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael Oritt via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
To: Linwood Rose <linwoodrose at mac.com>
Cc: healeylist <Healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 15:09:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Oil sump gasket/seal sealant question

Hi Lin--

What works best for me is to glue the sump/valve cover gaskets to the
sump/head with 3M yellow brush-on contact cement and to use a non-hardening
sealant such as Hylomar on the top surfaces.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Sat, Jul 24, 2021 at 3:28 PM Linwood Rose via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hello all, I apologize if this comes through twice. I am not sure that the
> first one got through?
>
> I am ready to reinstall the oil sump on my son?s Bugeye that has a 1275.
> Not a Big Healey I know but the same knowledge base applies. I have glued
> the gasket/seals to the pan and will use hylomar on the gasket. What should
> be used on the front cork seal and the rear neoprene seal? Hylomar,
> silicone, grease, nothing?
>
> Thanks very much.
>
> Lin
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
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>
>

-- 
Best--Michael


From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 25 22:35:31 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 21:35:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Line
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOOfE2gyxe0zq10ne354_b8WZ0Ryk-h6khDmwmrYpM4bhw@mail.gmail.com>

Can someone describe the routing inside the car under the dash to the oil
pressure gauge of a BN1/2?    Here is a picture of the original oil line
that came with the basket case I bought.  I suspect it is not bent
correctly.
Mike MacLean
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 25 23:22:01 2021
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2021 22:22:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] US based digital conversion
Message-ID: <CABXhz88SrFqMs5RPj1L5GmO_sJQRL6Ma-wR=qztT=2xcj2mcjg@mail.gmail.com>

Howdy all.
I found a UK based company that does digital conversion to BN4 speedo, that
still looks stock,but the want many many months to complete the conversion.
Anyone know of a place in the States or Canada that can do the work?
Thanks

Ira Erbs
1959 AH 100-6
1967 MGB
Milwaukie, OR
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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Mon Jul 26 02:49:11 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 09:49:11 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid -- Silicone vs. glycol
In-Reply-To: <800297037.116695354.1627258440349.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <CAO-Hfn-e4qioEy_ez11QYfYehAmgoXCPbH+96Lq5RTknQZso=A@mail.gmail.com>
 <800297037.116695354.1627258440349.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <000a01d781fb$1d3e3730$57baa590$@alexarevel.plus.com>



I was getting myself in a muddle over brake fluid once so I made myself some
notes. Probably pinched from Google; I don't recall:-

1)	All brake fluid is "synthetic".it's not a "natural" product.
2)	Most synthetic fluids are NOT silicone. They are polyethylene glycol
ether based.
3)	DOT 3 & 4, which can be mixed, are not silicone. They are glycol.
4)	DOT 5, which cannot be mixed with 3 or 4, is silicone. Can't be
mixed with anything!
5)	DOT 5.1 is glycol based and cannot be mixed with DOT 5.
6)	DOT 5.1 can be mixed with DOT 3 or 4, as both are glycol based.

The word "synthetic" began to appear when manufacturers worked out that it
made regular brake fluid sound more special ie they could charge us more
money for the same old stuff.

DOT stands for Dept. Of Transport and relates to the fluids' boiling points.
If a car brakes at high speed, the brakes get hot. Some heat is carried away
from the brakes by the brake fluid. Bad news if the fluid boils! The faster
you're going, the higher DOT you need. Higher DOT numbers indicate higher
boiling points for "Dry" fluid (has not absorbed any water) and "Wet" fluids
(has absorbed water). ie, the wetter it is, the more problematic it becomes.
Mixing 3 with 4 lowers the boiling points and vice verca.


From gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com  Mon Jul 26 05:43:38 2021
From: gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com (Greg Wilkinson)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 04:43:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] US based digital conversion
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88SrFqMs5RPj1L5GmO_sJQRL6Ma-wR=qztT=2xcj2mcjg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CABXhz88SrFqMs5RPj1L5GmO_sJQRL6Ma-wR=qztT=2xcj2mcjg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3f4a6828-83e7-b2f2-31ff-4f82fdfb9245@roadrunner.com>

You could try North Hollywood Speedometer.

https://www.nhspeedometer.com/

On 7/25/21 10:22 PM, i erbs via Healeys wrote:
> Howdy all.
> I found a UK based company that does digital conversion to BN4 speedo, 
> that still looks stock,but the want many many months to complete 
> the?conversion. Anyone know of a place in the States or Canada that 
> can do the work?
> Thanks
>
> Ira Erbs
> 1959 AH 100-6
> 1967 MGB
> Milwaukie, OR
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gregwilkinson at roadrunner.com
>
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From bluehealey at gmail.com  Mon Jul 26 05:54:46 2021
From: bluehealey at gmail.com ('bluehealey')
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 12:54:46 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid -- Silicone vs. glycol
In-Reply-To: <000a01d781fb$1d3e3730$57baa590$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000a01d781fb$1d3e3730$57baa590$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <FBF86409-6373-43A2-92FB-7BE0473F42DF@gmail.com>

Now that is a perfect checklist Simon. Captures everything you need to know. 
In addition I work on the basis that glycol mixtures, if neglected (not flushed) for more than 3-4 years, can cause minor problems with the hardware. 
Silicone, if neglected for a similar period, can cause major problems with the hardware. 
Guess which I choose to use. 

AlanB - iPhone message.

> On 26 Jul 2021, at 09:57, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> 
> I was getting myself in a muddle over brake fluid once so I made myself some
> notes. Probably pinched from Google; I don't recall:-
> 
> 1)    All brake fluid is "synthetic".it's not a "natural" product.
> 2)    Most synthetic fluids are NOT silicone. They are polyethylene glycol
> ether based.
> 3)    DOT 3 & 4, which can be mixed, are not silicone. They are glycol.
> 4)    DOT 5, which cannot be mixed with 3 or 4, is silicone. Can't be
> mixed with anything!
> 5)    DOT 5.1 is glycol based and cannot be mixed with DOT 5.
> 6)    DOT 5.1 can be mixed with DOT 3 or 4, as both are glycol based.
> 
> The word "synthetic" began to appear when manufacturers worked out that it
> made regular brake fluid sound more special ie they could charge us more
> money for the same old stuff.
> 
> DOT stands for Dept. Of Transport and relates to the fluids' boiling points.
> If a car brakes at high speed, the brakes get hot. Some heat is carried away
> from the brakes by the brake fluid. Bad news if the fluid boils! The faster
> you're going, the higher DOT you need. Higher DOT numbers indicate higher
> boiling points for "Dry" fluid (has not absorbed any water) and "Wet" fluids
> (has absorbed water). ie, the wetter it is, the more problematic it becomes.
> Mixing 3 with 4 lowers the boiling points and vice verca.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com
> 

From tomfelts at windstream.net  Mon Jul 26 09:48:32 2021
From: tomfelts at windstream.net (Tom Felts)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 11:48:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Healeys] update on "clutch" noise--BJ8
Message-ID: <123136101.118959678.1627314512609.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>

I had mentioned in the recent past about a "grinding" noise coming from what i thought was the clutch.  What was happenng was that 'sometimes when pushing in the clutch and engaging the gears I would get a grinding noise----then it would go away and shifting would be normal---and it never made the noise while moving.  today I took the tunnel cover off and I could hear the noise better and could pinpoint it. ---and------it seems to be coming from the OD unit, not where the pressure plate is. It is a scary sound.   I'm now thinking the noise is coming from the OD unit, but have no idea what is causing the noise. and---I'm wondering why there would be this noise only when depressing the clutch and engaging the gears---and why sometimes and not all the time.could something be misaligned in the drive train?  Any other ideas would be appreciated.If it is the OD, i'm looking for a OK mechanic in the Pittsburgh area.  Healey Surgeons is a bit far.Thankstom
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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Mon Jul 26 10:03:28 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 12:03:28 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] update on "clutch" noise--BJ8
In-Reply-To: <123136101.118959678.1627314512609.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
References: <123136101.118959678.1627314512609.JavaMail.zimbra@windstream.net>
Message-ID: <448c9742-63a4-c395-2f56-84f0f14f0163@earthlink.net>

Tom,

OD mechanic/rebuilder: Leo Ruof in Columbus OH. 614 216-1608. Drove his 
100 to Conclave this year.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/26/21 11:48 AM, Tom Felts via Healeys wrote:
> I had mentioned in the recent past about a "grinding" noise coming 
> from what i thought was the clutch.? What was happenng was that 
> 'sometimes when pushing in the clutch and engaging the gears I would 
> get a grinding noise----then it would go away and shifting would be 
> normal---and it never made the noise while moving.
>
> today I took the tunnel cover off and I could hear the noise better 
> and could pinpoint it. ---and------it seems to be coming from the OD 
> unit, not where the pressure plate is. It is a scary sound.? ?I'm now 
> thinking the noise is coming from the OD unit, but have no idea what 
> is causing the noise. and---I'm wondering why there would be this 
> noise only when depressing the clutch and engaging the gears---and why 
> sometimes and not all the time.
>
> could something be misaligned in the drive train?? Any other ideas 
> would be appreciated.
>
> If it is the OD, i'm looking for a OK mechanic in the Pittsburgh area. 
> Healey Surgeons is a bit far.
>
> Thanks
> tom
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From roggrace at telus.net  Mon Jul 26 14:25:15 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 13:25:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid -- Silicone vs. glycol
In-Reply-To: <FBF86409-6373-43A2-92FB-7BE0473F42DF@gmail.com>
References: <000a01d781fb$1d3e3730$57baa590$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <FBF86409-6373-43A2-92FB-7BE0473F42DF@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiPKCwCczN926oJ11DNBXzdMim7=iQEo7zZJv2f=TyUQYA@mail.gmail.com>

Does anyone have an opinion as to the accuracy of those cheepo pen style
brake fluid moisture detectors ?
You dip the probes into the reservoir and they give led indication for
range % moisture present.
Just wondering ... ??
rg

On Mon, Jul 26, 2021 at 4:55 AM bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com> wrote:

> Now that is a perfect checklist Simon. Captures everything you need to
> know.
> In addition I work on the basis that glycol mixtures, if neglected (not
> flushed) for more than 3-4 years, can cause minor problems with the
> hardware.
> Silicone, if neglected for a similar period, can cause major problems with
> the hardware.
> Guess which I choose to use.
>
> AlanB - iPhone message.
>
> > On 26 Jul 2021, at 09:57, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> >
> > ?
> >
> > I was getting myself in a muddle over brake fluid once so I made myself
> some
> > notes. Probably pinched from Google; I don't recall:-
> >
> > 1)    All brake fluid is "synthetic".it's not a "natural" product.
> > 2)    Most synthetic fluids are NOT silicone. They are polyethylene
> glycol
> > ether based.
> > 3)    DOT 3 & 4, which can be mixed, are not silicone. They are glycol.
> > 4)    DOT 5, which cannot be mixed with 3 or 4, is silicone. Can't be
> > mixed with anything!
> > 5)    DOT 5.1 is glycol based and cannot be mixed with DOT 5.
> > 6)    DOT 5.1 can be mixed with DOT 3 or 4, as both are glycol based.
> >
> > The word "synthetic" began to appear when manufacturers worked out that
> it
> > made regular brake fluid sound more special ie they could charge us more
> > money for the same old stuff.
> >
> > DOT stands for Dept. Of Transport and relates to the fluids' boiling
> points.
> > If a car brakes at high speed, the brakes get hot. Some heat is carried
> away
> > from the brakes by the brake fluid. Bad news if the fluid boils! The
> faster
> > you're going, the higher DOT you need. Higher DOT numbers indicate higher
> > boiling points for "Dry" fluid (has not absorbed any water) and "Wet"
> fluids
> > (has absorbed water). ie, the wetter it is, the more problematic it
> becomes.
> > Mixing 3 with 4 lowers the boiling points and vice verca.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> >
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com  Mon Jul 26 15:16:33 2021
From: gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com (Richard Collins)
Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2021 21:16:33 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid -- Silicone vs. glycol
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiPKCwCczN926oJ11DNBXzdMim7=iQEo7zZJv2f=TyUQYA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000a01d781fb$1d3e3730$57baa590$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <FBF86409-6373-43A2-92FB-7BE0473F42DF@gmail.com>,
 <CALPtYiPKCwCczN926oJ11DNBXzdMim7=iQEo7zZJv2f=TyUQYA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BN7PR08MB4276E363DDA54B268E630F24BFE89@BN7PR08MB4276.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

I had one and it worked well. Lasted about 2 years.
My wrench has one and swears by it. But other than the Healey, I track my cars so change fluid frequently. DOT4 HiTemp for them, DOT4 regular for the Healey. No problems.  Never used silicone even though I completely rebuilt and or replaced the Healey system last year (calipers, drums, and lines)

Regards,
Richard C
BN7 440

On Jul 26, 2021, at 15:26, Roger Grace via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

?
Does anyone have an opinion as to the accuracy of those cheepo pen style brake fluid moisture detectors ?
You dip the probes into the reservoir and they give led indication for range % moisture present.
Just wondering ... ??
rg

On Mon, Jul 26, 2021 at 4:55 AM bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com<mailto:bluehealey at gmail.com>> wrote:
Now that is a perfect checklist Simon. Captures everything you need to know.
In addition I work on the basis that glycol mixtures, if neglected (not flushed) for more than 3-4 years, can cause minor problems with the hardware.
Silicone, if neglected for a similar period, can cause major problems with the hardware.
Guess which I choose to use.

AlanB - iPhone message.

> On 26 Jul 2021, at 09:57, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
> ?
>
> I was getting myself in a muddle over brake fluid once so I made myself some
> notes. Probably pinched from Google; I don't recall:-
>
> 1)    All brake fluid is "synthetic".it's not a "natural" product.
> 2)    Most synthetic fluids are NOT silicone. They are polyethylene glycol
> ether based.
> 3)    DOT 3 & 4, which can be mixed, are not silicone. They are glycol.
> 4)    DOT 5, which cannot be mixed with 3 or 4, is silicone. Can't be
> mixed with anything!
> 5)    DOT 5.1 is glycol based and cannot be mixed with DOT 5.
> 6)    DOT 5.1 can be mixed with DOT 3 or 4, as both are glycol based.
>
> The word "synthetic" began to appear when manufacturers worked out that it
> made regular brake fluid sound more special ie they could charge us more
> money for the same old stuff.
>
> DOT stands for Dept. Of Transport and relates to the fluids' boiling points.
> If a car brakes at high speed, the brakes get hot. Some heat is carried away
> from the brakes by the brake fluid. Bad news if the fluid boils! The faster
> you're going, the higher DOT you need. Higher DOT numbers indicate higher
> boiling points for "Dry" fluid (has not absorbed any water) and "Wet" fluids
> (has absorbed water). ie, the wetter it is, the more problematic it becomes.
> Mixing 3 with 4 lowers the boiling points and vice verca.
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com
>
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
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From ynotink at msn.com  Mon Jul 26 22:17:50 2021
From: ynotink at msn.com (WILLIAM B LAWRENCE)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2021 04:17:50 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Line
In-Reply-To: <CAL4ZEOOfE2gyxe0zq10ne354_b8WZ0Ryk-h6khDmwmrYpM4bhw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAL4ZEOOfE2gyxe0zq10ne354_b8WZ0Ryk-h6khDmwmrYpM4bhw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CY4PR13MB11437298833C4DAD4F742812A5E99@CY4PR13MB1143.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>

The solid line goes through the fire wall close to the center and needs to route to the left(on a LHD car). The flexible line runs from down on the block and attaches to the solid line from below. As shown on the pic it is upside down.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Michael MacLean via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2021 4:35 AM
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Oil Pressure Line

Can someone describe the routing inside the car under the dash to the oil pressure gauge of a BN1/2?    Here is a picture of the original oil line that came with the basket case I bought.  I suspect it is not bent correctly.
Mike MacLean
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From 050.rpl at gmail.com  Tue Jul 27 15:33:42 2021
From: 050.rpl at gmail.com (R. Lindsay)
Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2021 17:33:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Top Seal Caps
Message-ID: <75757388-B8A6-4CCF-AD32-A3FBA59E5B6E@gmail.com>

?
Does anyone have pictures of the process for installing the end caps on the seals for the BJ8 top?  Also, I have looked at the archives and note the caps must be cut to fit over the barbed portion of the retainer.  Where is this cut?  Inside the cap where is a ?slot? that looks like it should go over the barbed portion or on the outside?

Thank you for your help.

Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
Sent from my iPad

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 02:04:14 2021
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 16:04:14 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] possible jaguar parts?
In-Reply-To: <C4FBD662-6163-BE42-892C-5B6E287597F0@hxcore.ol>
References: <C4FBD662-6163-BE42-892C-5B6E287597F0@hxcore.ol>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLLow-yzmJC0JuUifhgU2m73ZbMuFrL+PEJ8CQWgKWnxw@mail.gmail.com>

Yep, they look like XK120 parts.  They will be very valuable.

On Fri, Jul 23, 2021 at 2:02 AM jim--- via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Hello list, longtime lurker and former 62 tricarb owner (I enjoy reading
> about everyone?s love for healeys).
>
>
>
> My friend is assisting an estate sale in southern Indiana and we believe
> these are XK120 DHC windshield components and side curtains. Can anyone
> verify or correct us? Any ideas on value?
>
>
>
> Thank you in advance for your help.
>
>
>
> jim
>
>
>
>
>
> _____________________
> *Jim Bunte*
>
> 310-497-7536
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
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>
>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 08:14:14 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 10:14:14 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive inhibitor switch BN1
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLa1NPWTuMq4gcKQ15M3wicTQ=3VXZf2sxqy0DQLfsCSw@mail.gmail.com>

On the BN1 gearbox the overdrive inhibitor switch is immersed in oil and is
frequently a source of leakage.  The original switch was part # 2H2272
which changed up to 11G3062. The Lucas # for that switch is 31077 and these
are screw terminal switches.
These switches incorporate an "O" ring seal on the plunger to stop oil
leaking through the switch.  After 60 years the "O" rings tend to leak
(appalling quality) and it becomes necessary to  change the switch, as
replacing the "O" ring involves disassembling the switch and usually
doesn't work.
The original Lucas 31077 switches are of course NLA.
Lucas now supplies a Lucar terminal switch as a replacement.
In later applications the "O" ring seal in not required as the switch is no
longer immersed in oil, although on the side shift boxes it is subjected to
oil splash.
I have installed a new Lucas switch on a BN1 gearbox but during a Varsol
leak test it leaks significantly and I'm suspicious that it has no oil
seal.
I'm awaiting the delivery of a replacement but was wondering if anyone else
has had success with the currently available switch in a BN1 box.

M
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From ah100tech at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 09:14:26 2021
From: ah100tech at gmail.com (john harper)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 16:14:26 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive inhibitor switch BN1
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLa1NPWTuMq4gcKQ15M3wicTQ=3VXZf2sxqy0DQLfsCSw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLa1NPWTuMq4gcKQ15M3wicTQ=3VXZf2sxqy0DQLfsCSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAL28cLVJN4mtkUFREXnEoGErRV7HLsz6LUV2LM6rj1Qt5NSokA@mail.gmail.com>

Mike

I have been successful in replacing the 'O' ring but I had a problem
getting the correct size and being oil resistant.

I say successful but this was only about 4 years ago so it may not last as
long as the original. Time will tell!

Best regards

On Wed, 28 Jul 2021 at 15:15, Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> On the BN1 gearbox the overdrive inhibitor switch is immersed in oil and
> is frequently a source of leakage.  The original switch was part # 2H2272
> which changed up to 11G3062. The Lucas # for that switch is 31077 and these
> are screw terminal switches.
> These switches incorporate an "O" ring seal on the plunger to stop oil
> leaking through the switch.  After 60 years the "O" rings tend to leak
> (appalling quality) and it becomes necessary to  change the switch, as
> replacing the "O" ring involves disassembling the switch and usually
> doesn't work.
> The original Lucas 31077 switches are of course NLA.
> Lucas now supplies a Lucar terminal switch as a replacement.
> In later applications the "O" ring seal in not required as the switch is
> no longer immersed in oil, although on the side shift boxes it is subjected
> to oil splash.
> I have installed a new Lucas switch on a BN1 gearbox but during a Varsol
> leak test it leaks significantly and I'm suspicious that it has no oil
> seal.
> I'm awaiting the delivery of a replacement but was wondering if anyone
> else has had success with the currently available switch in a BN1 box.
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>
>
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From roggrace at telus.net  Wed Jul 28 09:23:54 2021
From: roggrace at telus.net (Roger Grace)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 08:23:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive inhibitor switch BN1
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLa1NPWTuMq4gcKQ15M3wicTQ=3VXZf2sxqy0DQLfsCSw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLa1NPWTuMq4gcKQ15M3wicTQ=3VXZf2sxqy0DQLfsCSw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CALPtYiMe0jckzeMK9yJkXwZ-UrvcQA6-HgTfqNR46Odu0MBnQQ@mail.gmail.com>

What is a Varsol leak test ? !
rg

On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 7:15 AM Michael Salter via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> On the BN1 gearbox the overdrive inhibitor switch is immersed in oil and
> is frequently a source of leakage.  The original switch was part # 2H2272
> which changed up to 11G3062. The Lucas # for that switch is 31077 and these
> are screw terminal switches.
> These switches incorporate an "O" ring seal on the plunger to stop oil
> leaking through the switch.  After 60 years the "O" rings tend to leak
> (appalling quality) and it becomes necessary to  change the switch, as
> replacing the "O" ring involves disassembling the switch and usually
> doesn't work.
> The original Lucas 31077 switches are of course NLA.
> Lucas now supplies a Lucar terminal switch as a replacement.
> In later applications the "O" ring seal in not required as the switch is
> no longer immersed in oil, although on the side shift boxes it is subjected
> to oil splash.
> I have installed a new Lucas switch on a BN1 gearbox but during a Varsol
> leak test it leaks significantly and I'm suspicious that it has no oil
> seal.
> I'm awaiting the delivery of a replacement but was wondering if anyone
> else has had success with the currently available switch in a BN1 box.
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>
>
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From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Wed Jul 28 10:18:00 2021
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (s.hutchings at rogers.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 12:18:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Brake Fluid -- Silicone vs. glycol
In-Reply-To: <BN7PR08MB4276E363DDA54B268E630F24BFE89@BN7PR08MB4276.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
References: <000a01d781fb$1d3e3730$57baa590$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <FBF86409-6373-43A2-92FB-7BE0473F42DF@gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiPKCwCczN926oJ11DNBXzdMim7=iQEo7zZJv2f=TyUQYA@mail.gmail.com>
 <BN7PR08MB4276E363DDA54B268E630F24BFE89@BN7PR08MB4276.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <93A78FCE-6C1E-45BF-AEE0-8FAC940FBC96@rogers.com>

I?ve used DOT 5 silicone fluid for many years, and no problems.
My only reservation with it is - if something goes wrong with your servo, the fluid will be sucked through the manifold into the engine, and you don?t want that!
I?ve changed the size of my master cylinder and bypassed the servo so that I can continue to use DOT 5. Again, no problems, but I do tend to do some work on the brakes often enough to change the fluid within the required period.

Stephen, BJ8

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 26, 2021, at 5:16 PM, Richard Collins via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> I had one and it worked well. Lasted about 2 years.
> My wrench has one and swears by it. But other than the Healey, I track my cars so change fluid frequently. DOT4 HiTemp for them, DOT4 regular for the Healey. No problems.  Never used silicone even though I completely rebuilt and or replaced the Healey system last year (calipers, drums, and lines)
> 
> Regards,
> Richard C
> BN7 440
> 
>> On Jul 26, 2021, at 15:26, Roger Grace via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ?
>> Does anyone have an opinion as to the accuracy of those cheepo pen style brake fluid moisture detectors ?
>> You dip the probes into the reservoir and they give led indication for range % moisture present.
>> Just wondering ... ??
>> rg
>> 
>>> On Mon, Jul 26, 2021 at 4:55 AM bluehealey <bluehealey at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Now that is a perfect checklist Simon. Captures everything you need to know. 
>>> In addition I work on the basis that glycol mixtures, if neglected (not flushed) for more than 3-4 years, can cause minor problems with the hardware. 
>>> Silicone, if neglected for a similar period, can cause major problems with the hardware. 
>>> Guess which I choose to use. 
>>> 
>>> AlanB - iPhone message.
>>> 
>>> > On 26 Jul 2021, at 09:57, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> > 
>>> > ?
>>> > 
>>> > I was getting myself in a muddle over brake fluid once so I made myself some
>>> > notes. Probably pinched from Google; I don't recall:-
>>> > 
>>> > 1)    All brake fluid is "synthetic".it's not a "natural" product.
>>> > 2)    Most synthetic fluids are NOT silicone. They are polyethylene glycol
>>> > ether based.
>>> > 3)    DOT 3 & 4, which can be mixed, are not silicone. They are glycol.
>>> > 4)    DOT 5, which cannot be mixed with 3 or 4, is silicone. Can't be
>>> > mixed with anything!
>>> > 5)    DOT 5.1 is glycol based and cannot be mixed with DOT 5.
>>> > 6)    DOT 5.1 can be mixed with DOT 3 or 4, as both are glycol based.
>>> > 
>>> > The word "synthetic" began to appear when manufacturers worked out that it
>>> > made regular brake fluid sound more special ie they could charge us more
>>> > money for the same old stuff.
>>> > 
>>> > DOT stands for Dept. Of Transport and relates to the fluids' boiling points.
>>> > If a car brakes at high speed, the brakes get hot. Some heat is carried away
>>> > from the brakes by the brake fluid. Bad news if the fluid boils! The faster
>>> > you're going, the higher DOT you need. Higher DOT numbers indicate higher
>>> > boiling points for "Dry" fluid (has not absorbed any water) and "Wet" fluids
>>> > (has absorbed water). ie, the wetter it is, the more problematic it becomes.
>>> > Mixing 3 with 4 lowers the boiling points and vice verca.
>>> > 
>>> > _______________________________________________
>>> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> > Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> > 
>>> > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> > 
>>> > Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> > 
>>> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey at gmail.com
>>> > 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90 at hotmail.com
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
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From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed Jul 28 10:58:37 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 16:58:37 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive inhibitor switch BN1
Message-ID: <2a967106d6f62316aa94acc6c600a8d4ad042225@webmail>

Guys, I'm afraid that if you want the original screw terminal switch
you just have to live with some minor leakage. I did use a minute
amount of Permatec "The right stuff" in those areas around the switch
but it still gives a wet finger. So, all the boxes that I did have a
"wet switch". I even found some replacement units (very rare) which
also leaked. Presently there is one on ebay for $45.
The fact that you were able to replace the o-ring is just amazing,
John. Such persistence! I would rather have the original screw
terminals, than a dry Lucar switch. But some of my customers were not
so fussy. I hated to modify that harness! Then too, they put the unit
at the bottom of the gearbox where it receives the most pressure, and
is prone to being hit by debris, Hank, healeyhelper.com

	-----------------------------------------From: "john harper" 
To: "Michael Salter"
Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net"
Sent: Wednesday July 28 2021 8:15:49AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive inhibitor switch BN1

 Mike 
 I have been successful in replacing the 'O' ring but I had a problem
getting the correct size and being oil resistant. 
 I say successful but this was only about 4 years ago so it may not
last as long as the original. Time will tell! 
 Best regards  
 On Wed, 28 Jul 2021 at 15:15, Michael Salter via Healeys  wrote:
  On the BN1 gearbox the overdrive inhibitor switch is immersed in oil
and is frequently a source of leakage. The original switch was part #
2H2272 which changed up to 11G3062. The Lucas # for that switch is
31077 and these are screw terminal switches. These switches
incorporate an "O" ring seal on the plunger to stop oil leaking
through the switch. After 60 years the "O" rings tend to leak
(appalling quality) and it becomes necessary to change the switch, as
replacing the "O" ring involves disassembling the switch and usually
doesn't work. The original Lucas 31077 switches are of course NLA. 
Lucas now supplies a Lucar terminal switch as a replacement. In later
applications the "O" ring seal in not required as the switch is no
longer immersed in oil, although on the side shift boxes it is
subjected to oil splash. I have installed a new Lucas switch on a BN1
gearbox but during a Varsol leak test it leaks significantly and I'm
suspicious that it has no oil seal.  I'm awaiting the delivery of a
replacement but was wondering if anyone else has had success with the
currently available switch in a BN1 box. 
 M  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net  [1]http://www.team.net/donate.html [2]
 Suggested annual donation $12.75

 Archive:  [3]http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys [4] 
[5]http://autox.team.net/archive [6]

Healeys at autox.team.net
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 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
[9]http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
[10]

  

Links:
------
[1] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[2] http://www.team.net/donate.html
[3] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
[4] http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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[8] http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 11:02:26 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 13:02:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive inhibitor switch BN1
In-Reply-To: <CALPtYiMe0jckzeMK9yJkXwZ-UrvcQA6-HgTfqNR46Odu0MBnQQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLa1NPWTuMq4gcKQ15M3wicTQ=3VXZf2sxqy0DQLfsCSw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CALPtYiMe0jckzeMK9yJkXwZ-UrvcQA6-HgTfqNR46Odu0MBnQQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLD0W3P2pTWEniyXre_-osJqopYwL3dORoWk8wsCAOmCw@mail.gmail.com>

Varsol leak test.
The BN1 gearbox is notorious for leaks, some of which cannot be corrected
without removing and disassembling the gearbox.
After I  rebuild one I set it up level on my work bench and add the full
capacity of Varsol. I leave the box overnight then check for leaks the next
day.
If all is good I  drain off the Varsol and install the box.
Well worth the effort as I  don't enjoy re & reing the box to resolve leaks.

M

On Wed., Jul. 28, 2021, 11:24 a.m. Roger Grace, <roggrace at telus.net> wrote:

> What is a Varsol leak test ? !
> rg
>
> On Wed, Jul 28, 2021 at 7:15 AM Michael Salter via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> On the BN1 gearbox the overdrive inhibitor switch is immersed in oil and
>> is frequently a source of leakage.  The original switch was part # 2H2272
>> which changed up to 11G3062. The Lucas # for that switch is 31077 and these
>> are screw terminal switches.
>> These switches incorporate an "O" ring seal on the plunger to stop oil
>> leaking through the switch.  After 60 years the "O" rings tend to leak
>> (appalling quality) and it becomes necessary to  change the switch, as
>> replacing the "O" ring involves disassembling the switch and usually
>> doesn't work.
>> The original Lucas 31077 switches are of course NLA.
>> Lucas now supplies a Lucar terminal switch as a replacement.
>> In later applications the "O" ring seal in not required as the switch is
>> no longer immersed in oil, although on the side shift boxes it is subjected
>> to oil splash.
>> I have installed a new Lucas switch on a BN1 gearbox but during a Varsol
>> leak test it leaks significantly and I'm suspicious that it has no oil
>> seal.
>> I'm awaiting the delivery of a replacement but was wondering if anyone
>> else has had success with the currently available switch in a BN1 box.
>>
>> M
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace at telus.net
>>
>>
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From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed Jul 28 11:06:13 2021
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 13:06:13 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive inhibitor switch BN1
In-Reply-To: <CAL28cLVJN4mtkUFREXnEoGErRV7HLsz6LUV2LM6rj1Qt5NSokA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLa1NPWTuMq4gcKQ15M3wicTQ=3VXZf2sxqy0DQLfsCSw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAL28cLVJN4mtkUFREXnEoGErRV7HLsz6LUV2LM6rj1Qt5NSokA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLgkWmC6rsqMtQL5R8DmRy+EZ2YZpj0Q=d7Hpy6L3jwGw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the reply John, I  have some of the "O" rings so maybe I'll give
it another try. I really don't like "putting up" with a leak.

M

On Wed., Jul. 28, 2021, 11:14 a.m. john harper, <ah100tech at gmail.com> wrote:

> Mike
>
> I have been successful in replacing the 'O' ring but I had a problem
> getting the correct size and being oil resistant.
>
> I say successful but this was only about 4 years ago so it may not last as
> long as the original. Time will tell!
>
> Best regards
>
> On Wed, 28 Jul 2021 at 15:15, Michael Salter via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> On the BN1 gearbox the overdrive inhibitor switch is immersed in oil and
>> is frequently a source of leakage.  The original switch was part # 2H2272
>> which changed up to 11G3062. The Lucas # for that switch is 31077 and these
>> are screw terminal switches.
>> These switches incorporate an "O" ring seal on the plunger to stop oil
>> leaking through the switch.  After 60 years the "O" rings tend to leak
>> (appalling quality) and it becomes necessary to  change the switch, as
>> replacing the "O" ring involves disassembling the switch and usually
>> doesn't work.
>> The original Lucas 31077 switches are of course NLA.
>> Lucas now supplies a Lucar terminal switch as a replacement.
>> In later applications the "O" ring seal in not required as the switch is
>> no longer immersed in oil, although on the side shift boxes it is subjected
>> to oil splash.
>> I have installed a new Lucas switch on a BN1 gearbox but during a Varsol
>> leak test it leaks significantly and I'm suspicious that it has no oil
>> seal.
>> I'm awaiting the delivery of a replacement but was wondering if anyone
>> else has had success with the currently available switch in a BN1 box.
>>
>> M
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/ah100tech at gmail.com
>>
>>
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From manifold at telus.net  Wed Jul 28 12:22:48 2021
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 11:22:48 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BT7 Rear Wing Turnbuckle
Message-ID: <E5E16790-1049-43A9-BACC-58CA39BC4DC9@hxcore.ol>

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From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Wed Jul 28 15:45:55 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 22:45:55 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive query
Message-ID: <000001d783f9$f290f300$d7b2d900$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Hi,

Attached is Del Border's excellent work on, you guessed it, the overdrive.
Doubtless, you've all got a copy. 

 

Page 4, illustration 6.9. Can anyone tell me what the second handwritten
figure is? ie, "Increase this dimension from 0.125" to ?????".

 

And...Page 5, paragraph starting, "Now to get the pressure." Does anyone
have the precise dimensions of these washers? ie 1/16" thick by ????" wide?

 

Lastly, has anyone tried these two mods? 

 

Page 6's work the springs is interesting but OTT for my purposes! 

 

Thanks,

Simon

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From rchaskell at earthlink.net  Wed Jul 28 16:47:10 2021
From: rchaskell at earthlink.net (Bob Haskell)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 18:47:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive query
In-Reply-To: <000001d783f9$f290f300$d7b2d900$@alexarevel.plus.com>
References: <000001d783f9$f290f300$d7b2d900$@alexarevel.plus.com>
Message-ID: <d0052711-5732-7932-eaa5-8c0fb1953f86@earthlink.net>

Simon,

The handwritten dimension on page 4, illustration 6.9 is 0.125" -> 
0.219".? It's 0.125" plus 3/32" as mention in the text.

I don't have a loose piston.? For the washers to install in the piston, 
the inside diameter ought to be smaller than the spring and the outside 
diameter a bit smaller than the piston's inside diameter.? Might have to 
chamfer the OD to match the piston.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/28/21 5:45 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Attached is Del Border?s excellent work on, you guessed it, the 
> overdrive. Doubtless, you?ve all got a copy.
>
> Page 4, illustration 6.9. Can anyone tell me what the second 
> handwritten figure is? ie, ?Increase this dimension from 0.125? to ??????.
>
> And?..Page 5, paragraph starting, ?Now to get the pressure?? Does 
> anyone have the precise dimensions of these washers? ie 1/16? thick by 
> ????? wide?
>
> Lastly, has anyone tried these two mods?
>
> Page 6?s work the springs is interesting but OTT for my purposes!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>


From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jul 28 17:08:40 2021
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock BCS)
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 16:08:40 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive query
In-Reply-To: <d0052711-5732-7932-eaa5-8c0fb1953f86@earthlink.net>
References: <000001d783f9$f290f300$d7b2d900$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <d0052711-5732-7932-eaa5-8c0fb1953f86@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <D89C085657C3498899665CF18F47C03A@DavidNockHP>

The most common problem with the check valve on the pump is the ball does 
not come off its seat straight. It always come off at an angle and wears the 
seat in the pump on one side. So what you will need to do is remove the 
pump. Then purchase a 1/4 " ball reamer and cut a new seat on the pump.




David Nock
healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com

Help us have our Founder Norman Nock inducteed into the
British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for your favorites
by visiting the site at.
www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org




-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob Haskell via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2021 3:47 PM
To: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com ; 'Healeys'
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive query

Simon,

The handwritten dimension on page 4, illustration 6.9 is 0.125" ->
0.219".  It's 0.125" plus 3/32" as mention in the text.

I don't have a loose piston.  For the washers to install in the piston,
the inside diameter ought to be smaller than the spring and the outside
diameter a bit smaller than the piston's inside diameter.  Might have to
chamfer the OD to match the piston.

Cheers,

Bob Haskell
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar

On 7/28/21 5:45 PM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Attached is Del Border???s excellent work on, you guessed it, the overdrive. 
> Doubtless, you???ve all got a copy.
>
> Page 4, illustration 6.9. Can anyone tell me what the second handwritten 
> figure is? ie, ???Increase this dimension from 0.125??? to ????????.
>
> And???..Page 5, paragraph starting, ???Now to get the pressure?????? Does anyone 
> have the precise dimensions of these washers? ie 1/16??? thick by ??????? 
> wide?
>
> Lastly, has anyone tried these two mods?
>
> Page 6???s work the springs is interesting but OTT for my purposes!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell at earthlink.net
>

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at gmail.com


From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Fri Jul 30 08:11:57 2021
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 15:11:57 +0100
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure drop
Message-ID: <000001d7854c$dc4a3b20$94deb160$@alexarevel.plus.com>

Hi,

I've been having issues with my OD. Similar to someone else quite recently..

The OD would engage and disengage properly at high revs but once the car was
cruising along at low revs, the OD would somehow act like it was on the
verge of dropping out &/or dropping back in.

It may be electrical, but I doubt it. The solenoid goes in with a nice
robust click.

 

I was thinking that it would be pressure related. So.....

I've bought a gauge from OD Spares here in UK and got the car up on axle
stands.

 

I did the test procedure much per the Del Border article which I sent out
the other day.

1.	Pressure is good, at the top end of 470 to 490 with gearbox oil
cold. ie 470 to 490 psi at 1500 rpm in 4th and then same in 4thOD after a
momentary drop. (40wt non-detergent).
2.	When I go out of OD, brake and switch off, the pressure drops to nil
at once. Which is, apparently and according to the article, WRONG.

I am now leaning towards something in the so-called "ball valve", items 33
to 37 on page 2 of attached. 

 

Does the above seem like a good place to start? 

Could, say, a worn spring or a piece of dirt in that area cause these
issues?

 

The names of these valves, "Operating valve" at top and "Ball valve" at
bottom seems to vary with every article I read.

The "non-return valve" and the "check valve"..are these the same thing and
are they what BMC calls the "Ball valve", item 37.

 

Thanks, hopefully!

Simon

 

 

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From gradea1 at charter.net  Fri Jul 30 11:04:49 2021
From: gradea1 at charter.net (gradea1 at charter.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 17:04:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure drop
Message-ID: <32d7457e41365c17ea022d3f0294c0dbfb69d112@webmail>

Simon-yes, there are two balls which control the pressure in the unit.
In the operating valve which is engaged by the action of the solenoid,
dirt is a possible issue. There is a very tiny hole drilling in the
stem of the valve which allows the oil to circulate. That opening can
plug with debris and stop the flow. Oil from the accumulator goes thru
this valve and lifts the ball allowing the operating cylinders to move
forward on the clutch producing the overdrive. When the ball is seated
(solenoid off) oil does not pass and is dumped into the OD sump.
You can see that this tiny drilling is very important and must be kept
clear. Often rebuilders suggest to enlarge the hole to 1MM. It may
change the dwell time of the OD action, but its has a better chance of
staying clean...a theory not proven.
The other ball is on the oil pump and that is the one that Del
suggested needed a new spring or extended plunger to enhance
pressure-another theory.
As you measured no pressure when out of OD, that is due to the ball
properly seating on the valve and reliving the pressure that operates
the two pistons. If you move the lever or engage the solenoid you
should get 470 lbs. again.
I would suggest cleaning the valve-use a magnet to get the parts out
and don't use a shop rage to clean them (no lint). If all is ok in the
valve body you need to look further into the accumulator and o-rings
and piston rings. I suggest you contact David at OD Spares for some
additional advise. Hank

	-----------------------------------------From: "Simon Lachlan via
Healeys" 
To: "Healeys"
Cc: 
Sent: Friday July 30 2021 7:32:48AM
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure drop

	Hi, 

	I?ve been having issues with my OD. Similar to someone else quite
recently?? 

	The OD would engage and disengage properly at high revs but once the
car was cruising along at low revs, the OD would somehow act like it
was on the verge of dropping out &/or dropping back in. 

	It _may_ be electrical, but I doubt it. The solenoid goes in with a
nice robust click. 

	I was thinking that it would be pressure related. So????? 

	I?ve bought a gauge from OD Spares here in UK and got the car up on
axle stands. 

	I did the test procedure much per the Del Border article which I sent
out the other day. 

	* Pressure is good, at the top end of 470 to 490 with gearbox oil
cold. ie 470 to 490 psi at 1500 rpm in 4th and then same in 4thOD
after a momentary drop. (40wt non-detergent).
 	* When I go out of OD, brake and switch off, the pressure drops to
nil at once. Which is, apparently and according to the article, WRONG.

	I am now leaning towards something in the so-called ?ball valve?,
items 33 to 37 on page 2 of attached. 

	Does the above seem like a good place to start? 

	Could, say, a worn spring or a piece of dirt in that area cause these
issues? 

	The names of these valves, ?Operating valve? at top and ?Ball
valve? at bottom seems to vary with every article I read. 

	The ?non-return valve? and the ?check valve??.are these the
same thing and are they what BMC calls the ?Ball valve?, item 37. 

	Thanks, hopefully! 

	Simon 

	
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Fri Jul 30 11:50:36 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 10:50:36 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure drop
In-Reply-To: <32d7457e41365c17ea022d3f0294c0dbfb69d112@webmail>
References: <32d7457e41365c17ea022d3f0294c0dbfb69d112@webmail>
Message-ID: <bde67af9-10b0-6624-a97d-efd9bdca971b@comcast.net>

Sounds to me like your hydraulics are OK; sounds more electrical to me. 
I had similar symptoms with an intermittent OD relay; I fixed it in a 
hotel room in Canada by opening up the relay and filing the points (and 
replaced it when I got home).

I suspect--and it's only a guess--that you get the drop out/in symptom 
at lower revs because most of us--racers aside--spend the vast majority 
of time cruising at 2-2.5K RPM, so you get that symptom in that regimen 
more often.

Bob

On 7/30/2021 10:04 AM, Henry G Leach via Healeys wrote:
> Simon-yes, there are two balls which control the pressure in the unit. 
> In the operating valve which is engaged by the action of the solenoid, 
> dirt is a possible issue. There is a very tiny hole drilling in the 
> stem of the valve which allows the oil to circulate.? That opening can 
> plug with debris and stop the flow. Oil from the accumulator goes thru 
> this valve and lifts the ball allowing the operating cylinders to move 
> forward on the clutch producing the overdrive. When the ball is seated 
> (solenoid off) oil does not pass and is dumped into the OD sump.
>
> You can see that this tiny drilling is very important and must be kept 
> clear.? Often rebuilders suggest to enlarge the hole to 1MM. It may 
> change the dwell time of the OD action, but its has a better chance of 
> staying clean...a theory not proven.
>
> The other ball is on the oil pump and that is the one that Del 
> suggested needed a new spring or extended plunger? to enhance 
> pressure-another theory.
>
> As you measured no pressure when out of OD, that is due to the ball 
> properly seating on the valve and reliving the pressure that operates 
> the two pistons. If you move the lever or engage the solenoid you 
> should get 470 lbs. again.
>
> I would suggest cleaning the valve-use a magnet to get the parts out 
> and don't use a shop rage to clean them (no lint). If all is ok in the 
> valve body you need to look further into the accumulator and o-rings 
> and piston rings. I suggest you contact David at OD Spares for some 
> additional advise. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Simon Lachlan via Healeys"
> To: "Healeys"
> Cc:
> Sent: Friday July 30 2021 7:32:48AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive pressure drop
>
> Hi,
>
> I?ve been having issues with my OD. Similar to someone else quite 
> recently??
>
> The OD would engage and disengage properly at high revs but once the 
> car was cruising along at low revs, the OD would somehow act like it 
> was on the verge of dropping out &/or dropping back in.
>
> It /may/ be electrical, but I doubt it. The solenoid goes in with a 
> nice robust click.
>
> I was thinking that it would be pressure related. So?????
>
> I?ve bought a gauge from OD Spares here in UK and got the car up on 
> axle stands.
>
> I did the test procedure much per the Del Border article which I sent 
> out the other day.
>
>  1. Pressure is good, at the top end of 470 to 490 with gearbox oil
>     cold. ie 470 to 490 psi at 1500 rpm in 4^th and then same in 4thOD
>     after a momentary drop. (40wt non-detergent).
>  2. When I go out of OD, brake and switch off, the pressure drops to
>     nil at once. Which is, apparently and according to the article, WRONG.
>
> I am now leaning towards something in the so-called ?ball valve?, 
> items 33 to 37 on page 2 of attached.
>
> Does the above seem like a good place to start?
>
> Could, say, a worn spring or a piece of dirt in that area cause these 
> issues?
>
> The names of these valves, ?Operating valve? at top and ?Ball valve? 
> at bottom seems to vary with every article I read.
>
> The ?non-return valve? and the ?check valve??.are these the same thing 
> and are they what BMC calls the ?Ball valve?, item 37.
>
> Thanks, hopefully!
>
> Simon
>
>

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From gmcharris at hotmail.com  Fri Jul 30 17:15:31 2021
From: gmcharris at hotmail.com (george mcharris)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 23:15:31 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Blue paint for Armacord
Message-ID: <BY5PR11MB4227D07E191887310C60498FB5EC9@BY5PR11MB4227.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

Years ago I purchased some paint from AH Spares, however it does not show on their site anymore.
Does anyone out there have a source or recommendation for painting/dying the black armacord to blue?

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 30 18:19:08 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 17:19:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Blue paint for Armacord
In-Reply-To: <BY5PR11MB4227D07E191887310C60498FB5EC9@BY5PR11MB4227.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BY5PR11MB4227D07E191887310C60498FB5EC9@BY5PR11MB4227.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEON8nAwQgbmHGxL9X9cmDu_dGdDe9Vbe5CrBfnzcdbZy8Q@mail.gmail.com>

Any auto paint supply house has excellent spray on dyes for vinyl.
Mike MacLean

On Fri, Jul 30, 2021 at 4:15 PM george mcharris via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Years ago I purchased some paint from AH Spares, however it does not show
> on their site anymore.
>
> Does anyone out there have a source or recommendation for painting/dying
> the black armacord to blue?
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/springer.mike51 at gmail.com
>
>
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From springer.mike51 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 30 19:03:51 2021
From: springer.mike51 at gmail.com (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2021 18:03:51 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Jet Hot
Message-ID: <CAL4ZEOOgk9QVezF3DWnSBZRj6yro2d_CaqJJgmV7fy+uwZtgJA@mail.gmail.com>

 Got my BN2 exhaust pipe back from Jet Hot today.  As you can see, not
exactly concours standards.  Well, the car will not be concours either so I
went with the maximum heat containment coating.  Jet Hot Claims the Extreme
1300 coating will remove up to 65% of the surrounding external heat.  We'll
see.
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From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul 31 10:44:14 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2021 09:44:14 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [OT-No Healey Content] Embracing Vintage Cars in the
 Catskills - The New York Times
Message-ID: <bcc2b656-ba3f-1546-dd7f-1d7c1edaeeb5@comcast.net>

May be behind a paywall:

https://www.nytimes.com/2021/07/29/business/catskills-vintage-cars.html?action=click&module=Features&pgtype=Homepage 


From bspidell at comcast.net  Sat Jul 31 10:47:31 2021
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2021 09:47:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] [OT-No Healey Content] At the edge of Santa Barbara
 County, Cuyama is Central California's cowboy valley of enchantment
Message-ID: <d135075a-5c1b-9de1-017d-3b71dbe281ae@comcast.net>

One of my favorite Healey drives; Hwy 33 into Ojai is like a 'mini 
Stelvio Pass:'

https://www.sfgate.com/travel/article/Santa-Barbara-Central-California-Cuyama-SLO-cowboy-16341648.php?IPID=SFGate-HP-CP-Spotlight