[Healeys] Front pulley nut

[Simon Lachlan]

I use what we refer to as “scaffolding pole” over here…..the stuff they use for erecting scaffolds around houses for building work. Anyhow, it’s tough stuff, for sure. I think that there are two sizes, one of which just fits inside the other. Anyhow………when the straits are really dire, I put my socket onto the offending nut, attach the breaker and slide the scaffolding pole right down it. Then I just put a long slow heave into it and – usually – hey presto. I suppose you’d not want to use a 12(?) point socket and your breaker bar better should be pretty robust. I’ve got various combinations but usually use about 4ft. I doubt I could bend that if I tried!

My wife has a little Toyota runabout and some clown gave it a good clout while we were on holiday last week. I had to remove one of the wheels and there was one nut which nothing would shift. Not even a ½” drive Milwaukee. So, out with the scaffolding pole….Hey presto. Brute force and ignorance every time! Good luck.

Simon

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Roger Grace
Sent: 19 February 2025 17:35
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Front pulley nut

 

I am struggling on a BJ8 engine to break the front pulley nut.

It is quite a recent rebuild so suspect Loctite or similar is maybe the culprit.

Locking tab/cup is definitely free

Using the proper size 1/2 x 1 11/16 socket.

Flywheel end securely locked via long bar onto solid concrete

Tried:

Long Crescent wrench and pounding

Breaker bar with 26 in total leverage - just bends

Electric impact wrench - had no expectations really

Air impact tool with supposed 800ft lbs (?) of loosening torque

1/2 in impact tool that pounded with 4 lb hammer

Some heat from a propane source. Probably needs proper Oxy Acet heat ?

Any thoughts ideas appreciated.and please not that it should be CC !

rg

 

 

 

 

 


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