From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu May  1 20:12:00 2025
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2025 22:12:00 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Charge Robbing
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLMX_zwPJRCKGTtxkvh_Lk=NX-7bSaOM5gUYt7kMz4LQw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7LLMX_zwPJRCKGTtxkvh_Lk=NX-7bSaOM5gUYt7kMz4LQw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJMRLVqnEY0CMH_BpO5DjjZy+PKPT9ih2cOm=_bViptfw@mail.gmail.com>

Michael -

I learned something new today!

I wonder if charge robbing can be addressed by offsetting the carburettors
a bit so that they are closer to  one cylinder vs another.

Cheers,

Alan

On Fri, Apr 11, 2025 at 11:42?AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> There are lots of very smart people on this list and, as it has been very
> quiet lately I thought I would throw this out for constructive feedback.
>
> Dealing with the issue of ?CHARGE robbing? with a Siamese port cylinder
> head.
>
> The cylinder head design of the Austin Healey 100 is over 80 years old
> and incorporates Siamese ports, a configuration never used in later
> designs. In this type of head, the forward and the rearward pairs of
> cylinders each share an individual intake port and the inner pair of
> cylinders share one exhaust port.
>
> Additionally, in the interests of simplicity, these engines use a firing
> order of 1-3-4-2 or, expressed differently, 2-1-3-4, with the result that
> these ports ?see? a port flow pattern of ?flow, flow, wait, wait, flow,
> flow, wait, wait?.
>
> This design results in a phenomenon called ?charge robbing? wherein a
> cylinder served by an individual port which draws the incoming air/fuel
> charge first gets ?robbed? of part of this charge by the cylinder which
> draws its charge immediately thereafter.
>
> Reputedly, this design results in the inner two cylinders (2 &3) receiving
> a ?leaner? intake charge than the outer two cylinders (1 & 4) and we were
> always told that exhaust valve failure, a frequent occurrence which was
> invariably confined to cylinders #2 or #3 in these BMC ?A? and ?B? series
> engines, was a consequence of this ?charge robbing?.
>
> My 55 years of experience has been limited almost exclusively to
> carburetted engines of this type, both single and twin carburettor
> versions, and during that time I have regularly used spark plug colour as
> an indication of the air/fuel ratio being burned in any cylinder. I?m aware
> that this test is nowhere near as accurate as modern UEGO systems but these
> weren?t available at the time however, over the years this test has never
> indicated that the inner cylinders (2 & 3) consistently run leaner.
>
> Some decades ago, it was determined that in these engines the gas
> temperature in the Siamese exhaust port of cylinders 2 & 3 can be as much
> as 100? C higher than in the outer two ports and the resulting higher
> operating temperature of the exhaust valves in those inner cylinders is a
> much more likely explanation for their premature failure.
>
> For ?charge robbing? to affect the air/fuel ratio the ?charge? must
> contain fuel droplets. To express this differently if the incoming charge
> consists entirely of an homogenized gas mixture of air and vaporized fuel,
> whatever enters either port will have the same air/fuel ratio. This is
> almost certainly the case with a carbureted engine wherein the fuel is
> introduced into the very turbulent incoming air stream as microscopic
> droplets well before that stream reaches the point in the intake port where
> the port splits, which allows plenty of time for any droplets to entirely
> vaporize. In such a situation the volume of the charge entering the inner
> cylinders may be smaller than that entering the outer cylinders, but the
> air/fuel ratio will be the same for both.
>
> The same situation does not apply in modern multi-port fuel-injected
> engines where each port has its own injector. To minimize emissions during
> throttle transitions, an absolute minimum of fuel spray is allowed to hit
> the port walls so the fuel is injected into the intake ports just upstream
> of each cylinder's intake valve. As the intake valve opens backflow of
> combustion gasses through it finalizes the vaporization of the fuel
> droplets within the incoming charge. In the very unlikely event that such a
> port injection system be used in an engine with Siamesed intake ports the
> smaller volume of air delivered to the inner cylinders would result in the
> mixture in cylinders 2 & 3 being richer unless some sort of specialized
> tuning is used to decrease the pulse width for those two cylinders.
>
> So, how does this all play out in the case of the EFI system I?m
> developing for my 1956 Austin Healey 100?
>
> The fuel injectors in this engine modification are installed inside the SU
> carburettor bodies upstream of the throttle butterfly and are therefore a
> significant distance from the point in the Siamesed intake port where the
> port splits. As throttle transition emissions are of no concern with this
> vehicle, this position is ideal in that it ensures that the fuel droplets
> are completely vaporized long before the intake charge reaches the point
> where the port splits.
>
> For this reason, it is very unlikely that there will be any difference in
> the air/fuel ratio of the charge received by any of the cylinders.
>
>
> Michael S
>
> April 2025
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250501/3a5455c1/attachment.htm>

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Sun May  4 13:22:27 2025
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2025 15:22:27 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
Message-ID: <CAB3i7L+z21_wyooXW_v1TCuVMq9dS1m3_4XHv3NJhLZONJ_m8A@mail.gmail.com>

I have a BN1 with the radiator apron panel (horizontal behind and below the
grille in front of the radiator which usually has a division panel attached
to it) missing.
If I remove the horns and grille does anyone if this panel and the division
panel can be installed. Looks a bit tight but I don't want to have to
disturb the front shroud.
Thanks.

M
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250504/dfb4e9ae/attachment.htm>

From gradea1 at charter.net  Sun May  4 18:48:00 2025
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Mon, 05 May 2025 00:48:00 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
Message-ID: <4dcb8cc1-a586-c4bb-bb50-b43334d8d4c3@charter.net>

An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250505/f1ec13fb/attachment.htm>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: front end wo grille.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 270890 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250505/f1ec13fb/attachment.jpe>

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Sun May  4 19:08:30 2025
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2025 21:08:30 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7L+z21_wyooXW_v1TCuVMq9dS1m3_4XHv3NJhLZONJ_m8A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAB3i7L+z21_wyooXW_v1TCuVMq9dS1m3_4XHv3NJhLZONJ_m8A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B5D7kVhwges1VC745e2JtRboBgu+KR7CCZY2BL2Xu+abg@mail.gmail.com>

Michael--

I don't know about the horizontal apron panel but when I installed an
electric fan I had to remove the vertical divider panel and did so after
removing the grille.

Best---Michael Oritt

On Sun, May 4, 2025 at 5:13?PM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> I have a BN1 with the radiator apron panel (horizontal behind and below
> the grille in front of the radiator which usually has a division panel
> attached to it) missing.
> If I remove the horns and grille does anyone if this panel and the
> division panel can be installed. Looks a bit tight but I don't want to have
> to disturb the front shroud.
> Thanks.
>
> M
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250504/9935a0e8/attachment.htm>

From vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com  Sun May  4 22:02:02 2025
From: vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com (Jean Caron)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2025 04:02:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
In-Reply-To: <4dcb8cc1-a586-c4bb-bb50-b43334d8d4c3@charter.net>
References: <4dcb8cc1-a586-c4bb-bb50-b43334d8d4c3@charter.net>
Message-ID: <BL0PR11MB3396E6A8DE177DD943DEF1BED18E2@BL0PR11MB3396.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>

Michael,
I agree with Hank, your car did not come with this vertical panel but if you have the grille removed you should be able to install one. You will have to drill three holes, two in  the horizontal panels and one in the bonnet hinge and cross brace assembly for the machined screw that holds the top of the vertical panel in place.

Jean

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 4, 2025 7:48:00 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator apron

Michael-the early cars did not always have the center baffle panel.  They had the lower horizontal "apron" you describe but the vertical "modesty " panel was added in late 53 into 54. Photo of my 53 #588 did not have the vertical so you can see all the way thru the front. Since your car (#172?) is early; my guess is that you never had the panel.  Are there mounting holes in the horizontal apron to receive the lip of the vertical piece? The later parts available came with drilled holes. Not sure you could install one unless you remove the grille.  Hank
--------------------

From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: May 4, 2025 at 2:04 PM PDT
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
I have a BN1 with the radiator apron panel (horizontal behind and below the grille in front of the radiator which usually has a division panel attached to it) missing.
If I remove the horns and grille does anyone if this panel and the division panel can be installed. Looks a bit tight but I don't want to have to disturb the front shroud.
Thanks.

M

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250505/3e76d538/attachment.htm>

From simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com  Mon May  5 15:24:46 2025
From: simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com (Mitch Simmons)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2025 17:24:46 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <CADK1H=KTDn=Mv4DNdfKLxm86WLp5ERodKurPJC2Ery1reUg8rw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello,
anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15 tires? I am
considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have Dayton 60 spoke
rims......Also considering Michelin XAS 180HR15...BUT not sure they will
work with 4.5 inch wide rims (any experience with those would be
appreciated ..as well

Thanks
Mitchell
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250505/b17a06d0/attachment.htm>

From gradea1 at charter.net  Mon May  5 19:26:35 2025
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Tue, 06 May 2025 01:26:35 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <48a8479b-806f-8894-18e3-5eeb36831f4a@charter.net>

An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/5ba74502/attachment.htm>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: wheel.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 331655 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/5ba74502/attachment.jpe>

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon May  5 19:35:35 2025
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2025 21:35:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <CADK1H=KTDn=Mv4DNdfKLxm86WLp5ERodKurPJC2Ery1reUg8rw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADK1H=KTDn=Mv4DNdfKLxm86WLp5ERodKurPJC2Ery1reUg8rw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7r510Jz_o5W5vp5wtDi8WURa2iFUv+bYnsfTxwhAtLjg@mail.gmail.com>

Mitch--

I have the same wheels--60 spoke 4.5" Daytons--and I am driving on my
second set of the XAS's--by far the better choice.

Best--Michael Oritt

On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 7:58?PM Mitch Simmons <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hello,
> anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15 tires? I am
> considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have Dayton 60 spoke
> rims......Also considering Michelin XAS 180HR15...BUT not sure they will
> work with 4.5 inch wide rims (any experience with those would be
> appreciated ..as well
>
> Thanks
> Mitchell
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250505/7830410b/attachment.htm>

From simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com  Tue May  6 04:22:49 2025
From: simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com (Mitch Simmons)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2025 06:22:49 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <CAPTa0B7r510Jz_o5W5vp5wtDi8WURa2iFUv+bYnsfTxwhAtLjg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADK1H=KTDn=Mv4DNdfKLxm86WLp5ERodKurPJC2Ery1reUg8rw@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAPTa0B7r510Jz_o5W5vp5wtDi8WURa2iFUv+bYnsfTxwhAtLjg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CADK1H=+inR3G61eM12DwPSwz76=rRp0kf8JxeufnowhcYmy1qw@mail.gmail.com>

Michael.....Thanks for the tip!

On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 9:35?PM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Mitch--
>
> I have the same wheels--60 spoke 4.5" Daytons--and I am driving on my
> second set of the XAS's--by far the better choice.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 7:58?PM Mitch Simmons <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>> anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15 tires? I am
>> considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have Dayton 60 spoke
>> rims......Also considering Michelin XAS 180HR15...BUT not sure they will
>> work with 4.5 inch wide rims (any experience with those would be
>> appreciated ..as well
>>
>> Thanks
>> Mitchell
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>>
>>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/607877d1/attachment.htm>

From manifold at telus.net  Tue May  6 09:52:54 2025
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2025 08:52:54 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <48a8479b-806f-8894-18e3-5eeb36831f4a@charter.net>
References: <48a8479b-806f-8894-18e3-5eeb36831f4a@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCB8q2rMsOLtF4J4N_mcb7kjted6TRV2yPrXf61hJjcg7A@mail.gmail.com>

Mitchell,

Tires are a somewhat contentious issue in the Healey world. I do have a
background in the automotive world and started with the basics to pick a
tire. Originally my car had 4" wide rims which limited the tire choice to a
165 HR 15. I upgraded to 4.5" wide rims which opens up a number of
possibilities. The second consideration is to match the sidewall height of
the original tires for a couple of reasons. The profile of the wheel well
on our Healey is basically the same for all models. The tires should have
an OD close to the original Roadspeed 5.90H15 to maintain the right look.
Another consideration is the tire is a part of the suspension system and
the sidewall of the tire influences the ride. A lower sidewall tends to
produce a stiffer and harsher ride.

I chose the Michelin XAS 180 HR 15 and am very happy with the look, ride
and performance. If your BJ8 is a phase 2 with the raised suspension in my
opinion the 165 HR 15 has too small a diameter and doesn't look at home
within the wheel well profile. For the same reason I think the 185/70HR15
profile tires look out of place as well.

For comparison this is the table I put together to help pick out tires. All
of these will fit a 4.5" - 5" wide rim. The wider tires could have
clearance issues but reports are they do fit.

Tire Size  Inflated Diameter   Inflated Width
Road Speed RS5 5.90H15                    26.0                  6.4
Michelin XAS  165 HR 15                    25.4                  6.6
Michelin XAS  180 HR 15                    26.8                  6.9
Vredestein Sprint Classic 165HR15                    25.4
6.6
Vredestein Sprint Classic 185HR15                    26.7
7.4
Vredestein Sprint Classic 185/70HR15                    25.2
7.4

Hope this helps. The list has been quiet for a while so maybe this post
will start a tire controversy!

Harold



On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 6:34?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I use that tire on my BJ8 as it is closest to the original bias 590s. The
> 180 may affect your speedometer reading and could rub the sidelight wires
> but many use that size no matter. Anything bigger for sure will rub. Here
> is the look of the 165 with 60s in the the wheel well. Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Mitch Simmons" <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: May 5, 2025 at 4:50 PM PDT
> Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
> Hello,
> anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15 tires? I am
> considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have Dayton 60 spoke
> rims......Also considering Michelin XAS 180HR15...BUT not sure they will
> work with 4.5 inch wide rims (any experience with those would be
> appreciated ..as well
>
> Thanks
> Mitchell
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/7603540c/attachment.htm>

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue May  6 12:00:19 2025
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (JSARCH)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2025 11:00:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCB8q2rMsOLtF4J4N_mcb7kjted6TRV2yPrXf61hJjcg7A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48a8479b-806f-8894-18e3-5eeb36831f4a@charter.net>
 <CAFP1XCB8q2rMsOLtF4J4N_mcb7kjted6TRV2yPrXf61hJjcg7A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00df01dbbeb0$bb3c89f0$31b59dd0$@sbcglobal.net>

Mitchell,

 

Coker Tire states on their website a rim width of 5? to 6.5? for the Michelin XAS 180HR15 89H. Great tire, I just installed them for a second time last May.

 

https://cokertire.com/tires/michelin-xas-180hr15-89h.html

 

?62 BT7

John

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: Tuesday, May 6, 2025 8:53 AM
To: gradea1 at charter.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)

 

Mitchell,

 

Tires are a somewhat contentious issue in the Healey world. I do have a background in the automotive world and started with the basics to pick a tire. Originally my car had 4" wide rims which limited the tire choice to a 165 HR 15. I upgraded to 4.5" wide rims which opens up a number of possibilities. The second consideration is to match the sidewall height of the original tires for a couple of reasons. The profile of the wheel well on our Healey is basically the same for all models. The tires should have an OD close to the original Roadspeed 5.90H15 to maintain the right look. Another consideration is the tire is a part of the suspension system and the sidewall of the tire influences the ride. A lower sidewall tends to produce a stiffer and harsher ride.

 

I chose the Michelin XAS 180 HR 15 and am very happy with the look, ride and performance. If your BJ8 is a phase 2 with the raised suspension in my opinion the 165 HR 15 has too small a diameter and doesn't look at home within the wheel well profile. For the same reason I think the 185/70HR15 profile tires look out of place as well.

 

For comparison this is the table I put together to help pick out tires. All of these will fit a 4.5" - 5" wide rim. The wider tires could have clearance issues but reports are they do fit.

 


Tire

Size

 Inflated Diameter 

 Inflated Width 


Road Speed RS5

5.90H15

                   26.0 

                 6.4 


Michelin XAS 

165 HR 15

                   25.4 

                 6.6 


Michelin XAS 

180 HR 15

                   26.8 

                 6.9 


Vredestein Sprint Classic

165HR15

                   25.4 

                 6.6 


Vredestein Sprint Classic

185HR15

                   26.7 

                 7.4 


Vredestein Sprint Classic

185/70HR15

                   25.2 

                 7.4 

 

Hope this helps. The list has been quiet for a while so maybe this post will start a tire controversy!

 

Harold

 

 

 

On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 6:34?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

I use that tire on my BJ8 as it is closest to the original bias 590s. The 180 may affect your speedometer reading and could rub the sidelight wires but many use that size no matter. Anything bigger for sure will rub. Here is the look of the 165 with 60s in the the wheel well. Hank
-------------------- 

From: "Mitch Simmons" <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com <mailto:simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com> > 
To: <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > 
Sent: May 5, 2025 at 4:50 PM PDT 
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) 

Hello, 

anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15 tires? I am considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have Dayton 60 spoke rims......Also considering Michelin XAS 180HR15...BUT not sure they will work with 4.5 inch wide rims (any experience with those would be appreciated ..as well

 

Thanks

Mitchell

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/934c68d7/attachment.htm>

From rmarkovich at aol.com  Tue May  6 12:41:26 2025
From: rmarkovich at aol.com (Robert Markovich)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2025 18:41:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
References: <545440470.2140073.1746556886393.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <545440470.2140073.1746556886393@mail.yahoo.com>

So the right size, based on the standard 165/80-15, would?be 185/70-15. Some go lower on the aspect ratio, only to shorten their gearing and wind up with tires that don?t properly fill the wheel wells. Which is just what the former owner of my BN7 did?one of many corrections I had to make ?


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Tuesday, May 6, 2025, 2:35 PM, JSARCH via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

#yiv9064586517 filtered {}#yiv9064586517 filtered {}#yiv9064586517 filtered {}#yiv9064586517 p.yiv9064586517MsoNormal, #yiv9064586517 li.yiv9064586517MsoNormal, #yiv9064586517 div.yiv9064586517MsoNormal {margin:0in;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv9064586517 a:link, #yiv9064586517 span.yiv9064586517MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9064586517 span.yiv9064586517EmailStyle18 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv9064586517 .yiv9064586517MsoChpDefault {}#yiv9064586517 filtered {}#yiv9064586517 div.yiv9064586517WordSection1 {}
Mitchell,

 ?

Coker Tire states on their website a rim width of 5? to 6.5? for the Michelin XAS 180HR15 89H. Great tire, I just installed them for a second time last May.

 ?

https://cokertire.com/tires/michelin-xas-180hr15-89h.html

 ?

?62 BT7

John

 ?

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: Tuesday, May 6, 2025 8:53 AM
To: gradea1 at charter.net
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)

 ?

Mitchell,

 ?

Tires are a somewhat contentious?issue in the Healey world. I do have a background?in the automotive world and started with the basics to pick a tire. Originally my car had 4" wide rims which limited the tire choice to a 165 HR 15. I upgraded to 4.5" wide rims which opens up a number of possibilities. The second consideration is to match the sidewall height of the original tires for a couple of reasons. The profile of the wheel well on our Healey is basically the same for all models. The tires should have an OD close to the original?Roadspeed 5.90H15 to maintain the right look. Another consideration is the tire is a part of the suspension system and the sidewall of the tire influences the ride. A lower sidewall tends to produce a stiffer and harsher ride.

 ?

I chose the Michelin XAS 180 HR 15 and am very happy with the look, ride and performance. If your BJ8 is a phase 2 with the raised suspension in my opinion?the 165 HR 15 has too small a diameter and doesn't look at home within the wheel well profile. For the same reason I think the 185/70HR15 profile tires look out of place as well.

 ?

For comparison this is the table I put together to help pick out tires. All of these will fit a 4.5" - 5" wide rim. The wider tires could have clearance issues but reports are they do fit.

 ?

| 
Tire
 | 
Size
 | 
?Inflated Diameter?
 | 
?Inflated Width?
 |
| 
Road Speed RS5
 | 
5.90H15
 | 
?????????????????? 26.0 
 | 
???????????????? 6.4 
 |
| 
Michelin XAS?
 | 
165 HR 15
 | 
?????????????????? 25.4 
 | 
???????????????? 6.6 
 |
| 
Michelin XAS?
 | 
180 HR 15
 | 
?????????????????? 26.8 
 | 
???????????????? 6.9 
 |
| 
Vredestein Sprint Classic
 | 
165HR15
 | 
?????????????????? 25.4 
 | 
???????????????? 6.6 
 |
| 
Vredestein Sprint Classic
 | 
185HR15
 | 
?????????????????? 26.7 
 | 
???????????????? 7.4 
 |
| 
Vredestein Sprint Classic
 | 
185/70HR15
 | 
?????????????????? 25.2 
 | 
???????????????? 7.4 
 |


 ?

Hope this helps. The list has been quiet for a while so maybe this post will start a tire controversy!

 ?

Harold

 ?

 ?

 ?

On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 6:34?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:


I use that tire on my BJ8 as it is closest to the original bias 590s. The 180 may affect your speedometer reading and could rub the sidelight wires but many use that size no matter. Anything bigger for sure will rub. Here is the look of the 165 with 60s in the the wheel well. Hank
-------------------- 

From: "Mitch Simmons" <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com> 
To: <healeys at autox.team.net> 
Sent: May 5, 2025 at 4:50 PM PDT 
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) 

Hello, 

anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15 tires? I am considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have Dayton 60 spoke rims......Also considering Michelin XAS 180HR15...BUT not sure they will work with 4.5 inch wide rims (any experience with those would be appreciated ..as well

?

Thanks

Mitchell

?

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rmarkovich at aol.com




-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/b3c00438/attachment.htm>

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue May  6 12:51:15 2025
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (JSARCH)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2025 11:51:15 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <545440470.2140073.1746556886393@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <545440470.2140073.1746556886393.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <545440470.2140073.1746556886393@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <013601dbbeb7$da0b5530$8e21ff90$@sbcglobal.net>

Michelin XAS 180HR15 89H on my BT7, great fit in my opinion. The front tires will sometimes rub on the wheel arch splash panel if I turn the wheel too much.

 



 

From: Robert Markovich <rmarkovich at aol.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, May 6, 2025 11:41 AM
To: JSARCH <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>; simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)

 

So the right size, based on the standard 165/80-15, would be 185/70-15. Some go lower on the aspect ratio, only to shorten their gearing and wind up with tires that don?t properly fill the wheel wells. Which is just what the former owner of my BN7 did?one of many corrections I had to make ?



 <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS

 

On Tuesday, May 6, 2025, 2:35 PM, JSARCH via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

Mitchell,

 

Coker Tire states on their website a rim width of 5? to 6.5? for the Michelin XAS 180HR15 89H. Great tire, I just installed them for a second time last May.

 

https://cokertire.com/tires/michelin-xas-180hr15-89h.html

 

?62 BT7

John

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Harold Manifold
Sent: Tuesday, May 6, 2025 8:53 AM
To: gradea1 at charter.net <mailto:gradea1 at charter.net> 
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)

 

Mitchell,

 

Tires are a somewhat contentious issue in the Healey world. I do have a background in the automotive world and started with the basics to pick a tire. Originally my car had 4" wide rims which limited the tire choice to a 165 HR 15. I upgraded to 4.5" wide rims which opens up a number of possibilities. The second consideration is to match the sidewall height of the original tires for a couple of reasons. The profile of the wheel well on our Healey is basically the same for all models. The tires should have an OD close to the original Roadspeed 5.90H15 to maintain the right look. Another consideration is the tire is a part of the suspension system and the sidewall of the tire influences the ride. A lower sidewall tends to produce a stiffer and harsher ride.

 

I chose the Michelin XAS 180 HR 15 and am very happy with the look, ride and performance. If your BJ8 is a phase 2 with the raised suspension in my opinion the 165 HR 15 has too small a diameter and doesn't look at home within the wheel well profile. For the same reason I think the 185/70HR15 profile tires look out of place as well.

 

For comparison this is the table I put together to help pick out tires. All of these will fit a 4.5" - 5" wide rim. The wider tires could have clearance issues but reports are they do fit.

 


Tire

Size

 Inflated Diameter 

 Inflated Width 


Road Speed RS5

5.90H15

                   26.0 

                 6.4 


Michelin XAS 

165 HR 15

                   25.4 

                 6.6 


Michelin XAS 

180 HR 15

                   26.8 

                 6.9 


Vredestein Sprint Classic

165HR15

                   25.4 

                 6.6 


Vredestein Sprint Classic

185HR15

                   26.7 

                 7.4 


Vredestein Sprint Classic

185/70HR15

                   25.2 

                 7.4 

 

Hope this helps. The list has been quiet for a while so maybe this post will start a tire controversy!

 

Harold

 

 

 

On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 6:34?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

I use that tire on my BJ8 as it is closest to the original bias 590s. The 180 may affect your speedometer reading and could rub the sidelight wires but many use that size no matter. Anything bigger for sure will rub. Here is the look of the 165 with 60s in the the wheel well. Hank
-------------------- 

From: "Mitch Simmons" <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com <mailto:simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com> > 
To: <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > 
Sent: May 5, 2025 at 4:50 PM PDT 
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) 

Hello, 

anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15 tires? I am considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have Dayton 60 spoke rims......Also considering Michelin XAS 180HR15...BUT not sure they will work with 4.5 inch wide rims (any experience with those would be appreciated ..as well

 

Thanks

Mitchell

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rmarkovich at aol.com

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/70b231d3/attachment.htm>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: image001.png
Type: image/png
Size: 1620530 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/70b231d3/attachment.png>

From s.hutchings at rogers.com  Tue May  6 15:49:24 2025
From: s.hutchings at rogers.com (Stephen Hutchings)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2025 17:49:24 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCB8q2rMsOLtF4J4N_mcb7kjted6TRV2yPrXf61hJjcg7A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48a8479b-806f-8894-18e3-5eeb36831f4a@charter.net>
 <CAFP1XCB8q2rMsOLtF4J4N_mcb7kjted6TRV2yPrXf61hJjcg7A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B955A641-D6FD-46FD-A1AD-ED5B2E6B12B7@rogers.com>

Harold, that chart is really useful.
What I?m wondering, is if you opt for the 165 15 size- what height ratio works best?
I mean, some of the brands like Continental have a specification like 165 65 15.
I noticed that you said you find the Vredestein Classic 185/70 HR 15 look out of place?so you find the 70 height ratio too small?
I don?t want any rubbing.

Stephen BJ8

> On May 6, 2025, at 11:52?AM, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:
> 
> Mitchell,
> 
> Tires are a somewhat contentious issue in the Healey world. I do have a background in the automotive world and started with the basics to pick a tire. Originally my car had 4" wide rims which limited the tire choice to a 165 HR 15. I upgraded to 4.5" wide rims which opens up a number of possibilities. The second consideration is to match the sidewall height of the original tires for a couple of reasons. The profile of the wheel well on our Healey is basically the same for all models. The tires should have an OD close to the original Roadspeed 5.90H15 to maintain the right look. Another consideration is the tire is a part of the suspension system and the sidewall of the tire influences the ride. A lower sidewall tends to produce a stiffer and harsher ride.
> 
> I chose the Michelin XAS 180 HR 15 and am very happy with the look, ride and performance. If your BJ8 is a phase 2 with the raised suspension in my opinion the 165 HR 15 has too small a diameter and doesn't look at home within the wheel well profile. For the same reason I think the 185/70HR15 profile tires look out of place as well.
> 
> For comparison this is the table I put together to help pick out tires. All of these will fit a 4.5" - 5" wide rim. The wider tires could have clearance issues but reports are they do fit.
> 
> Tire	Size	 Inflated Diameter 	 Inflated Width 
> Road Speed RS5	5.90H15	                   26.0	                 6.4
> Michelin XAS 	165 HR 15	                   25.4	                 6.6
> Michelin XAS 	180 HR 15	                   26.8	                 6.9
> Vredestein Sprint Classic	165HR15	                   25.4	                 6.6
> Vredestein Sprint Classic	185HR15	                   26.7	                 7.4
> Vredestein Sprint Classic	185/70HR15	                   25.2	                 7.4
> 
> Hope this helps. The list has been quiet for a while so maybe this post will start a tire controversy!
> 
> Harold
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 6:34?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> I use that tire on my BJ8 as it is closest to the original bias 590s. The 180 may affect your speedometer reading and could rub the sidelight wires but many use that size no matter. Anything bigger for sure will rub. Here is the look of the 165 with 60s in the the wheel well. Hank
>> -------------------- 
>> 
>> From: "Mitch Simmons" <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com <mailto:simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com>> 
>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> 
>> Sent: May 5, 2025 at 4:50 PM PDT 
>> Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
>> Hello,
>> anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15 tires? I am considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have Dayton 60 spoke rims......Also considering Michelin XAS 180HR15...BUT not sure they will work with 4.5 inch wide rims (any experience with those would be appreciated ..as well
>>  
>> Thanks
>> Mitchell
>>  
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>> 
>> Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>> 
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>> 
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
> 
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
> 

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/ae8c0ab6/attachment.htm>

From manifold at telus.net  Tue May  6 16:14:31 2025
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2025 15:14:31 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <B955A641-D6FD-46FD-A1AD-ED5B2E6B12B7@rogers.com>
References: <48a8479b-806f-8894-18e3-5eeb36831f4a@charter.net>
 <CAFP1XCB8q2rMsOLtF4J4N_mcb7kjted6TRV2yPrXf61hJjcg7A@mail.gmail.com>
 <B955A641-D6FD-46FD-A1AD-ED5B2E6B12B7@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCBfoezvCYXwbBSOAcndA0icEFzvC9Ts=WRusqO-E66Hng@mail.gmail.com>

My personal opinion is the sidewall is too narrow and OD too small on a 65
or 70 series tires.

If you are not familiar with the calculation. The section height is the
height of the tire measured from the rim to the outer edge of the tire; the
section width is the width from sidewall to sidewall. A tire with the code
xxx/65 indicates that the section height of the tire is 65% of its width.
For example, for a tire with code 200/65, the section height is 200 ? 65% =
130 mm. If no aspect ratio is stated then the default is usually 80.

The Michelin XAS 180 HR 15 calcultes to an 85 series tire and the original
Road Speed RS5 5.90H15 calcultes to an 86 series tire. Once the tire is
larger than 180 the lower aspect ratio is needed to prevent rubbing.

Not everyone agrees with me but I think Healeys look best with 80 series or
better tires.

Harold


On Tue, May 6, 2025 at 2:49?PM Stephen Hutchings <s.hutchings at rogers.com>
wrote:

> Harold, that chart is really useful.
> What I?m wondering, is if you opt for the 165 15 size- what height ratio
> works best?
> I mean, some of the brands like Continental have a specification like 165
> 65 15.
> I noticed that you said you find the Vredestein Classic 185/70 HR 15 look
> out of place?so you find the 70 height ratio too small?
> I don?t want any rubbing.
>
> Stephen BJ8
>
> On May 6, 2025, at 11:52?AM, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:
>
> Mitchell,
>
> Tires are a somewhat contentious issue in the Healey world. I do have a
> background in the automotive world and started with the basics to pick a
> tire. Originally my car had 4" wide rims which limited the tire choice to a
> 165 HR 15. I upgraded to 4.5" wide rims which opens up a number of
> possibilities. The second consideration is to match the sidewall height of
> the original tires for a couple of reasons. The profile of the wheel well
> on our Healey is basically the same for all models. The tires should have
> an OD close to the original Roadspeed 5.90H15 to maintain the right look.
> Another consideration is the tire is a part of the suspension system and
> the sidewall of the tire influences the ride. A lower sidewall tends to
> produce a stiffer and harsher ride.
>
> I chose the Michelin XAS 180 HR 15 and am very happy with the look, ride
> and performance. If your BJ8 is a phase 2 with the raised suspension in my
> opinion the 165 HR 15 has too small a diameter and doesn't look at home
> within the wheel well profile. For the same reason I think the 185/70HR15
> profile tires look out of place as well.
>
> For comparison this is the table I put together to help pick out tires.
> All of these will fit a 4.5" - 5" wide rim. The wider tires could have
> clearance issues but reports are they do fit.
>
> Tire Size  Inflated Diameter   Inflated Width
> Road Speed RS5 5.90H15                    26.0                  6.4
> Michelin XAS  165 HR 15                    25.4                  6.6
> Michelin XAS  180 HR 15                    26.8                  6.9
> Vredestein Sprint Classic 165HR15                    25.4
> 6.6
> Vredestein Sprint Classic 185HR15                    26.7
> 7.4
> Vredestein Sprint Classic 185/70HR15                    25.2
> 7.4
>
> Hope this helps. The list has been quiet for a while so maybe this post
> will start a tire controversy!
>
> Harold
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 6:34?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> I use that tire on my BJ8 as it is closest to the original bias 590s. The
>> 180 may affect your speedometer reading and could rub the sidelight wires
>> but many use that size no matter. Anything bigger for sure will rub. Here
>> is the look of the 165 with 60s in the the wheel well. Hank
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "Mitch Simmons" <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com>
>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: May 5, 2025 at 4:50 PM PDT
>> Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
>> Hello,
>> anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15 tires? I am
>> considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have Dayton 60 spoke
>> rims......Also considering Michelin XAS 180HR15...BUT not sure they will
>> work with 4.5 inch wide rims (any experience with those would be
>> appreciated ..as well
>>
>> Thanks
>> Mitchell
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/eea5938d/attachment.htm>

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue May  6 16:47:08 2025
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2025 15:47:08 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <B955A641-D6FD-46FD-A1AD-ED5B2E6B12B7@rogers.com>
References: <48a8479b-806f-8894-18e3-5eeb36831f4a@charter.net>
 <CAFP1XCB8q2rMsOLtF4J4N_mcb7kjted6TRV2yPrXf61hJjcg7A@mail.gmail.com>
 <B955A641-D6FD-46FD-A1AD-ED5B2E6B12B7@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <ee1a2020-6970-44d4-a50a-b2d0c0c0e9ec@comcast.net>

FWIW, I'm on my 4th (5th?) set of Vredestein Sprint Classics 185/70R-15 
on my BJ8. I've run them for well over 100K miles and have never had an 
issue; they're a good all-around (all-season) tire that is more than 
adequate for all but all-out racing. They are good in the rain, adequate 
in snow, grip well on pavement, have a smooth ride and are good for 
20-25K miles (they'll 'age out' before most owners put that many miles 
on them).

I run 6-inch Dayton 72-spoke stainless/chrome wires I bought from Bruce 
Erfer when he sold out of his garage in Soquel, before he opened his 
shop (British Wire Wheel). If I ever buy new wheels, I'd probably go 
with 5.5" rims as the wheels protrude a bit more from the sides than 
ideal, and the sidewalls look a little 'splayed'. The only rubbing I had 
was a R/R wheel that rubbed against a rebound bolt on hard left corners 
(but caused no appreciable damage). I have had problems with tubes 
leaking due to chafing (yes, I talced the tubes). I got a new set of MWS 
painted for the BN2 shod with 165/80 Vredesteins from Tom Monaco (the 
mounting was perfect but Tom said it was a lot of work). These are 
sealed wheels which, IMO, are the only way to go.

I haven't priced any Michelins, but if they're a lot more expensive I 
can't see the value (IIRC the Michelins require tubes but I don't know 
for sure). Note Michelin is otherwise my go-to; I have Cross Climate 2s 
on the Lincoln and Pilot Sport 4Ses on the Mustang. Years ago, the NA 
director for Vredestein owned a BJ8, and there was a red one on their 
pamphlets but I don't know for a fact it was his.

Bob

On 5/6/2025 2:49 PM, Stephen Hutchings wrote:
> Harold, that chart is really useful.
> What I?m wondering, is if you opt for the 165 15 size- what height 
> ratio works best?
> I mean, some of the brands like Continental have a specification like 
> 165 65 15.
> I noticed that you said you find the Vredestein Classic 185/70 HR 15 
> look out of place?so you find the 70 height ratio too small?
> I don?t want any rubbing.
>
> Stephen BJ8
>
>> On May 6, 2025, at 11:52?AM, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:
>>
>> Mitchell,
>>
>> Tires are a somewhat contentious?issue in the Healey world. I do have 
>> a background?in the automotive world and started with the basics to 
>> pick a tire. Originally my car had 4" wide rims which limited the 
>> tire choice to a 165 HR 15. I upgraded to 4.5" wide rims which opens 
>> up a number of possibilities. The second consideration is to match 
>> the sidewall height of the original tires for a couple of reasons. 
>> The profile of the wheel well on our Healey is basically the same for 
>> all models. The tires should have an OD close to the 
>> original?Roadspeed 5.90H15 to maintain the right look. Another 
>> consideration is the tire is a part of the suspension system and the 
>> sidewall of the tire influences the ride. A lower sidewall tends to 
>> produce a stiffer and harsher ride.
>>
>> I chose the Michelin XAS 180 HR 15 and am very happy with the look, 
>> ride and performance. If your BJ8 is a phase 2 with the raised 
>> suspension in my opinion?the 165 HR 15 has too small a diameter and 
>> doesn't look at home within the wheel well profile. For the same 
>> reason I think the 185/70HR15 profile tires look out of place as well.
>>
>> For comparison this is the table I put together to help pick out 
>> tires. All of these will fit a 4.5" - 5" wide rim. The wider tires 
>> could have clearance issues but reports are they do fit.
>>
>> Tire 	Size 	?Inflated Diameter 	?Inflated Width
>> Road Speed RS5 	5.90H15 	26.0 	6.4
>> Michelin XAS 	165 HR 15 	25.4 	6.6
>> Michelin XAS 	180 HR 15 	26.8 	6.9
>> Vredestein Sprint Classic 	165HR15 	25.4 	6.6
>> Vredestein Sprint Classic 	185HR15 	26.7 	7.4
>> Vredestein Sprint Classic 	185/70HR15 	25.2 	7.4
>>
>>
>> Hope this helps. The list has been quiet for a while so maybe this 
>> post will start a tire controversy!
>>
>> Harold
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 6:34?PM Hank Leach via Healeys 
>> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>     I use that tire on my BJ8 as it is closest to the original bias
>>     590s. The 180 may affect your speedometer reading and could rub
>>     the sidelight wires but many use that size no matter. Anything
>>     bigger for sure will rub. Here is the look of the 165 with 60s in
>>     the the wheel well. Hank
>>     --------------------
>>
>>     From: "Mitch Simmons" <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com>
>>     To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>     Sent: May 5, 2025 at 4:50 PM PDT
>>     Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
>>     Hello,
>>     anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15
>>     tires? I am considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have
>>     Dayton 60 spoke rims......Also considering Michelin XAS
>>     180HR15...BUT not sure they will work with 4.5 inch wide rims
>>     (any experience with those would be appreciated ..as well
>>     Thanks
>>     Mitchell
>>     _______________________________________________
>>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/4e3d80ba/attachment-0001.htm>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: IMG_2014.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 3155931 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/4e3d80ba/attachment-0001.jpe>

From javrugtman at htcnet.org  Tue May  6 17:48:22 2025
From: javrugtman at htcnet.org (John Vrugtman)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2025 19:48:22 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCB8q2rMsOLtF4J4N_mcb7kjted6TRV2yPrXf61hJjcg7A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48a8479b-806f-8894-18e3-5eeb36831f4a@charter.net>
 <CAFP1XCB8q2rMsOLtF4J4N_mcb7kjted6TRV2yPrXf61hJjcg7A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <e78e2ecf-d6ee-4b59-8fbe-1b4eec90b89d@htcnet.org>

I'm using the XAS 180s with 72 spoke wheel on my phase I with slightly 
uprated springs; like them a lot, fits the wheel well well (sorry).

John
64BJ8

On 5/6/2025 11:52 AM, Harold Manifold wrote:
> Mitchell,
>
> Tires are a somewhat contentious?issue in the Healey world. I do have 
> a background?in the automotive world and started with the basics to 
> pick a tire. Originally my car had 4" wide rims which limited the tire 
> choice to a 165 HR 15. I upgraded to 4.5" wide rims which opens up a 
> number of possibilities. The second consideration is to match the 
> sidewall height of the original tires for a couple of reasons. The 
> profile of the wheel well on our Healey is basically the same for all 
> models. The tires should have an OD close to the original?Roadspeed 
> 5.90H15 to maintain the right look. Another consideration is the tire 
> is a part of the suspension system and the sidewall of the tire 
> influences the ride. A lower sidewall tends to produce a stiffer and 
> harsher ride.
>
> I chose the Michelin XAS 180 HR 15 and am very happy with the look, 
> ride and performance. If your BJ8 is a phase 2 with the raised 
> suspension in my opinion?the 165 HR 15 has too small a diameter and 
> doesn't look at home within the wheel well profile. For the same 
> reason I think the 185/70HR15 profile tires look out of place as well.
>
> For comparison this is the table I put together to help pick out 
> tires. All of these will fit a 4.5" - 5" wide rim. The wider tires 
> could have clearance issues but reports are they do fit.
>
> Tire 	Size 	?Inflated Diameter 	?Inflated Width
> Road Speed RS5 	5.90H15 	26.0 	6.4
> Michelin XAS 	165 HR 15 	25.4 	6.6
> Michelin XAS 	180 HR 15 	26.8 	6.9
> Vredestein Sprint Classic 	165HR15 	25.4 	6.6
> Vredestein Sprint Classic 	185HR15 	26.7 	7.4
> Vredestein Sprint Classic 	185/70HR15 	25.2 	7.4
>
>
> Hope this helps. The list has been quiet for a while so maybe this 
> post will start a tire controversy!
>
> Harold
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 6:34?PM Hank Leach via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     I use that tire on my BJ8 as it is closest to the original bias
>     590s. The 180 may affect your speedometer reading and could rub
>     the sidelight wires but many use that size no matter. Anything
>     bigger for sure will rub. Here is the look of the 165 with 60s in
>     the the wheel well. Hank
>     --------------------
>
>     From: "Mitch Simmons" <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com>
>     To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>     Sent: May 5, 2025 at 4:50 PM PDT
>     Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
>     Hello,
>     anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15
>     tires? I am considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have
>     Dayton 60 spoke rims......Also considering Michelin XAS
>     180HR15...BUT not sure they will work with 4.5 inch wide rims (any
>     experience with those would be appreciated ..as well
>     Thanks
>     Mitchell
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys  http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/javrugtman at htcnet.org
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/c71ee759/attachment.htm>

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue May  6 19:23:56 2025
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (JSARCH)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2025 18:23:56 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
In-Reply-To: <ee1a2020-6970-44d4-a50a-b2d0c0c0e9ec@comcast.net>
References: <48a8479b-806f-8894-18e3-5eeb36831f4a@charter.net>
 <CAFP1XCB8q2rMsOLtF4J4N_mcb7kjted6TRV2yPrXf61hJjcg7A@mail.gmail.com>
 <B955A641-D6FD-46FD-A1AD-ED5B2E6B12B7@rogers.com>
 <ee1a2020-6970-44d4-a50a-b2d0c0c0e9ec@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <019901dbbeee$b4fbdb20$1ef39160$@sbcglobal.net>

The Michelin XAS 180 HR 15 requires a tube. I have them mounted on a 5.5? seventy-two spoke Dayton rim. The only rubbing is when I turn the steering wheel to a full lock. Rubbing does not occur under normal driving conditions.

 

John

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, May 6, 2025 3:47 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] (no subject)

 

FWIW, I'm on my 4th (5th?) set of Vredestein Sprint Classics 185/70R-15 on my BJ8. I've run them for well over 100K miles and have never had an issue; they're a good all-around (all-season) tire that is more than adequate for all but all-out racing. They are good in the rain, adequate in snow, grip well on pavement, have a smooth ride and are good for 20-25K miles (they'll 'age out' before most owners put that many miles on them).

I run 6-inch Dayton 72-spoke stainless/chrome wires I bought from Bruce Erfer when he sold out of his garage in Soquel, before he opened his shop (British Wire Wheel). If I ever buy new wheels, I'd probably go with 5.5" rims as the wheels protrude a bit more from the sides than ideal, and the sidewalls look a little 'splayed'. The only rubbing I had was a R/R wheel that rubbed against a rebound bolt on hard left corners (but caused no appreciable damage). I have had problems with tubes leaking due to chafing (yes, I talced the tubes). I got a new set of MWS painted for the BN2 shod with 165/80 Vredesteins from Tom Monaco (the mounting was perfect but Tom said it was a lot of work). These are sealed wheels which, IMO, are the only way to go.

I haven't priced any Michelins, but if they're a lot more expensive I can't see the value (IIRC the Michelins require tubes but I don't know for sure). Note Michelin is otherwise my go-to; I have Cross Climate 2s on the Lincoln and Pilot Sport 4Ses on the Mustang. Years ago, the NA director for Vredestein owned a BJ8, and there was a red one on their pamphlets but I don't know for a fact it was his. 

Bob 

On 5/6/2025 2:49 PM, Stephen Hutchings wrote:

Harold, that chart is really useful. 

What I?m wondering, is if you opt for the 165 15 size- what height ratio works best?

I mean, some of the brands like Continental have a specification like 165 65 15.

I noticed that you said you find the Vredestein Classic 185/70 HR 15 look out of place?so you find the 70 height ratio too small?

I don?t want any rubbing.

 

Stephen BJ8





On May 6, 2025, at 11:52?AM, Harold Manifold  <mailto:manifold at telus.net> <manifold at telus.net> wrote:

 

Mitchell, 

 

Tires are a somewhat contentious issue in the Healey world. I do have a background in the automotive world and started with the basics to pick a tire. Originally my car had 4" wide rims which limited the tire choice to a 165 HR 15. I upgraded to 4.5" wide rims which opens up a number of possibilities. The second consideration is to match the sidewall height of the original tires for a couple of reasons. The profile of the wheel well on our Healey is basically the same for all models. The tires should have an OD close to the original Roadspeed 5.90H15 to maintain the right look. Another consideration is the tire is a part of the suspension system and the sidewall of the tire influences the ride. A lower sidewall tends to produce a stiffer and harsher ride.

 

I chose the Michelin XAS 180 HR 15 and am very happy with the look, ride and performance. If your BJ8 is a phase 2 with the raised suspension in my opinion the 165 HR 15 has too small a diameter and doesn't look at home within the wheel well profile. For the same reason I think the 185/70HR15 profile tires look out of place as well.

 

For comparison this is the table I put together to help pick out tires. All of these will fit a 4.5" - 5" wide rim. The wider tires could have clearance issues but reports are they do fit.

 


Tire

Size

 Inflated Diameter 

 Inflated Width 


Road Speed RS5

5.90H15

                   26.0 

                 6.4 


Michelin XAS 

165 HR 15

                   25.4 

                 6.6 


Michelin XAS 

180 HR 15

                   26.8 

                 6.9 


Vredestein Sprint Classic

165HR15

                   25.4 

                 6.6 


Vredestein Sprint Classic

185HR15

                   26.7 

                 7.4 


Vredestein Sprint Classic

185/70HR15

                   25.2 

                 7.4 

 

Hope this helps. The list has been quiet for a while so maybe this post will start a tire controversy!

 

Harold

 

 

 

On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 6:34?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > wrote:

I use that tire on my BJ8 as it is closest to the original bias 590s. The 180 may affect your speedometer reading and could rub the sidelight wires but many use that size no matter. Anything bigger for sure will rub. Here is the look of the 165 with 60s in the the wheel well. Hank
-------------------- 

From: "Mitch Simmons" <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com <mailto:simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com> > 
To: <healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> > 
Sent: May 5, 2025 at 4:50 PM PDT 
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject) 

Hello, 

anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15 tires? I am considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have Dayton 60 spoke rims......Also considering Michelin XAS 180HR15...BUT not sure they will work with 4.5 inch wide rims (any experience with those would be appreciated ..as well

 

Thanks

Mitchell

 

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net

_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com

 





_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
 
Healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net> 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net
 

 

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250506/bfb7880b/attachment.htm>

From rmarkovich at aol.com  Wed May  7 07:03:18 2025
From: rmarkovich at aol.com (Robert Markovich)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2025 13:03:18 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
References: <1565323603.2461337.1746622998671.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1565323603.2461337.1746622998671@mail.yahoo.com>

I?ve been using Vredesteins for years with fine results. I?ve always stuck with the closest-to-original-size 165/80-15 on either 15 x 5.5 minilite replicas or, currently,15 x 4.5 60-spoke?tubeless MWS wires and recommend them?highly for performance and vintage looks. They have?a more traditional tread pattern, though, so stopping and handling in the?wet require a bit more caution?which is merited anyway!


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Tuesday, May 6, 2025, 7:05 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

 FWIW, I'm on my 4th (5th?) set of Vredestein Sprint Classics 185/70R-15 on my BJ8. I've run them for well over 100K miles and have never had an issue; they're a good all-around (all-season) tire that is more than adequate for all but all-out racing. They are good in the rain, adequate in snow, grip well on pavement, have a smooth ride and are good for 20-25K miles (they'll 'age out' before most owners put that many miles on them).
 
 I run 6-inch Dayton 72-spoke stainless/chrome wires I bought from Bruce Erfer when he sold out of his garage in Soquel, before he opened his shop (British Wire Wheel). If I ever buy new wheels, I'd probably go with 5.5" rims as the wheels protrude a bit more from the sides than ideal, and the sidewalls look a little 'splayed'. The only rubbing I had was a R/R wheel that rubbed against a rebound bolt on hard left corners (but caused no appreciable damage). I have had problems with tubes leaking due to chafing (yes, I talced the tubes). I got a new set of MWS painted for the BN2 shod with 165/80 Vredesteins from Tom Monaco (the mounting was perfect but Tom said it was a lot of work). These are sealed wheels which, IMO, are the only way to go.
 
 I haven't priced any Michelins, but if they're a lot more expensive I can't see the value (IIRC the Michelins require tubes but I don't know for sure). Note Michelin is otherwise my go-to; I have Cross Climate 2s on the Lincoln and Pilot Sport 4Ses on the Mustang. Years ago, the NA director for Vredestein owned a BJ8, and there was a red one on their pamphlets but I don't know for a fact it was his. 
 
 Bob 
 
 On 5/6/2025 2:49 PM, Stephen Hutchings wrote:
  
 
 Harold, that chart is really useful. What I?m wondering, is if you opt for the 165 15 size- what height ratio works best? I mean, some of the brands like Continental have a specification like 165 65 15. I noticed that you said you find the Vredestein Classic 185/70 HR 15 look out of place?so you find the 70 height ratio too small? I don?t want any rubbing. 
  Stephen BJ8
 
 
 On May 6, 2025, at 11:52?AM, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote: 
  Mitchell, 
  Tires are a somewhat contentious?issue in the Healey world. I do have a background?in the automotive world and started with the basics to pick a tire. Originally my car had 4" wide rims which limited the tire choice to a 165 HR 15. I upgraded to 4.5" wide rims which opens up a number of possibilities. The second consideration is to match the sidewall height of the original tires for a couple of reasons. The profile of the wheel well on our Healey is basically the same for all models. The tires should have an OD close to the original?Roadspeed 5.90H15 to maintain the right look. Another consideration is the tire is a part of the suspension system and the sidewall of the tire influences the ride. A lower sidewall tends to produce a stiffer and harsher ride. 
  I chose the Michelin XAS 180 HR 15 and am very happy with the look, ride and performance. If your BJ8 is a phase 2 with the raised suspension in my opinion?the 165 HR 15 has too small a diameter and doesn't look at home within the wheel well profile. For the same reason I think the 185/70HR15 profile tires look out of place as well. 
  For comparison this is the table I put together to help pick out tires. All of these will fit a 4.5" - 5" wide rim. The wider tires could have clearance issues but reports are they do fit. 
   
| Tire | Size | ?Inflated Diameter? | ?Inflated Width? |
| Road Speed RS5 | 5.90H15 | ?????????????????? 26.0  | ???????????????? 6.4  |
| Michelin XAS? | 165 HR 15 | ?????????????????? 25.4  | ???????????????? 6.6  |
| Michelin XAS? | 180 HR 15 | ?????????????????? 26.8  | ???????????????? 6.9  |
| Vredestein Sprint Classic | 165HR15 | ?????????????????? 25.4  | ???????????????? 6.6  |
| Vredestein Sprint Classic | 185HR15 | ?????????????????? 26.7  | ???????????????? 7.4  |
| Vredestein Sprint Classic | 185/70HR15 | ?????????????????? 25.2  | ???????????????? 7.4  |

  
 Hope this helps. The list has been quiet for a while so maybe this post will start a tire controversy! 
  Harold 
  
   
  On Mon, May 5, 2025 at 6:34?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
  
 I use that tire on my BJ8 as it is closest to the original bias 590s. The 180 may affect your speedometer reading and could rub the sidelight wires but many use that size no matter. Anything bigger for sure will rub. Here is the look of the 165 with 60s in the the wheel well. Hank
 -------------------- 
 
 From: "Mitch Simmons" <simmonsmitch23 at gmail.com> 
 To: <healeys at autox.team.net> 
 Sent: May 5, 2025 at 4:50 PM PDT 
 Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)  Hello, anyone have recent experience with .....Michelin XZX 165SR15 tires? I am considering them on my 66 BJ8......LMK....I have Dayton 60 spoke rims......Also considering Michelin XAS 180HR15...BUT not sure they will work with 4.5 inch wide rims (any experience with those would be appreciated ..as well ? Thanks Mitchell  ? _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation? $12.75
 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
 
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
 
 
  _______________________________________________
 Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
 
 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
 
 Healeys at autox.team.net
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
 
 Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/s.hutchings at rogers.com
 
  
  
  
  _______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeysHealeys at autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell at comcast.net 
 _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rmarkovich at aol.com




-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250507/5fdacd46/attachment.htm>

From cnaarndt at gmail.com  Wed May  7 07:20:19 2025
From: cnaarndt at gmail.com (Curtis Arndt)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2025 06:20:19 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
In-Reply-To: <BL0PR11MB3396E6A8DE177DD943DEF1BED18E2@BL0PR11MB3396.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
References: <4dcb8cc1-a586-c4bb-bb50-b43334d8d4c3@charter.net>
 <BL0PR11MB3396E6A8DE177DD943DEF1BED18E2@BL0PR11MB3396.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAJKrNeR5XGYwED-8ucw1o+w9gLdv10xSY7J1wxH80EzeUjupDA@mail.gmail.com>

Hank and Jean

Michael is a long time member of the AH Concours Guidelines Committee, an
early 100 expert and as such is well aware of this fact. I judged his car
Concours gold as I recall several years ago at the Gettysburg Conclave and
the vertical portion was not there as is correct for around the first 350
BN1s. As such, there was no deduction for the missing panel.

I have to assume that he now wants to add the panel to help improve cooling.

As for his question, it can be done but will require drilling three 3/16"
holes, two in the lower portion for 10-32 pan head phillips screws and one
in the top center portion of the upper support. Both the grill and radiator
may need to be removed. Pain in the butt if you ask me.

If you want to improve cooling without permanently altering your very
original car, I have several better options.

Cheers

Curtis Arndt
AH Concours Guidelines Committee

On Sun, May 4, 2025, 9:30?PM Jean Caron <
vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Michael,
> I agree with Hank, your car did not come with this vertical panel but if
> you have the grille removed you should be able to install one. You will
> have to drill three holes, two in  the horizontal panels and one in the
> bonnet hinge and cross brace assembly for the machined screw that holds the
> top of the vertical panel in place.
>
> Jean
>
> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach
> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 4, 2025 7:48:00 PM
> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>
> Michael-the early cars did not always have the center baffle panel.  They
> had the lower horizontal "apron" you describe but the vertical "modesty "
> panel was added in late 53 into 54. Photo of my 53 #588 did not have the
> vertical so you can see all the way thru the front. Since your car (#172?)
> is early; my guess is that you never had the panel.  Are there mounting
> holes in the horizontal apron to receive the lip of the vertical piece? The
> later parts available came with drilled holes. Not sure you could install
> one unless you remove the grille.  Hank
> --------------------
>
> From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: May 4, 2025 at 2:04 PM PDT
> Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
> I have a BN1 with the radiator apron panel (horizontal behind and below
> the grille in front of the radiator which usually has a division panel
> attached to it) missing.
> If I remove the horns and grille does anyone if this panel and the
> division panel can be installed. Looks a bit tight but I don't want to have
> to disturb the front shroud.
> Thanks.
>
> M
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250507/9bccfd2d/attachment.htm>

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Wed May  7 09:09:19 2025
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2025 11:09:19 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
In-Reply-To: <CAJKrNeR5XGYwED-8ucw1o+w9gLdv10xSY7J1wxH80EzeUjupDA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4dcb8cc1-a586-c4bb-bb50-b43334d8d4c3@charter.net>
 <BL0PR11MB3396E6A8DE177DD943DEF1BED18E2@BL0PR11MB3396.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJKrNeR5XGYwED-8ucw1o+w9gLdv10xSY7J1wxH80EzeUjupDA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLO5yoj466gpDYs=iJFoP9bG8Xiyc7XLPSbj13sw6ijqg@mail.gmail.com>

As I mentioned this issue is not with my early BN1 ... another car
altogether.
However that said, in order to improve the cooling cooling in traffic with
my BN1, I  have installed vertical panels, very like the division panel
used on later 100s, but at the ends of the apron panel. The improvement has
be remarkable and is something I would recommend for any 100 with
overheating issues.


M

On Wed., May 7, 2025, 9:20 a.m. Curtis Arndt, <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hank and Jean
>
> Michael is a long time member of the AH Concours Guidelines Committee, an
> early 100 expert and as such is well aware of this fact. I judged his car
> Concours gold as I recall several years ago at the Gettysburg Conclave and
> the vertical portion was not there as is correct for around the first 350
> BN1s. As such, there was no deduction for the missing panel.
>
> I have to assume that he now wants to add the panel to help improve
> cooling.
>
> As for his question, it can be done but will require drilling three 3/16"
> holes, two in the lower portion for 10-32 pan head phillips screws and one
> in the top center portion of the upper support. Both the grill and radiator
> may need to be removed. Pain in the butt if you ask me.
>
> If you want to improve cooling without permanently altering your very
> original car, I have several better options.
>
> Cheers
>
> Curtis Arndt
> AH Concours Guidelines Committee
>
> On Sun, May 4, 2025, 9:30?PM Jean Caron <
> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Michael,
>> I agree with Hank, your car did not come with this vertical panel but if
>> you have the grille removed you should be able to install one. You will
>> have to drill three holes, two in  the horizontal panels and one in the
>> bonnet hinge and cross brace assembly for the machined screw that holds the
>> top of the vertical panel in place.
>>
>> Jean
>>
>> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach
>> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 4, 2025 7:48:00 PM
>> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <
>> healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>>
>> Michael-the early cars did not always have the center baffle panel.  They
>> had the lower horizontal "apron" you describe but the vertical "modesty "
>> panel was added in late 53 into 54. Photo of my 53 #588 did not have the
>> vertical so you can see all the way thru the front. Since your car (#172?)
>> is early; my guess is that you never had the panel.  Are there mounting
>> holes in the horizontal apron to receive the lip of the vertical piece? The
>> later parts available came with drilled holes. Not sure you could install
>> one unless you remove the grille.  Hank
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: May 4, 2025 at 2:04 PM PDT
>> Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>> I have a BN1 with the radiator apron panel (horizontal behind and below
>> the grille in front of the radiator which usually has a division panel
>> attached to it) missing.
>> If I remove the horns and grille does anyone if this panel and the
>> division panel can be installed. Looks a bit tight but I don't want to have
>> to disturb the front shroud.
>> Thanks.
>>
>> M
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250507/d76ba91f/attachment.htm>

From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed May  7 12:41:49 2025
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2025 18:41:49 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
Message-ID: <1bda4c24-84c6-25dd-59f3-12aa532bc229@charter.net>

An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250507/eeb4a7ba/attachment.htm>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: debut 9.JPG
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 166861 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250507/eeb4a7ba/attachment.jpe>
-------------- next part --------------
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: AH 174 Michael S..jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 207533 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250507/eeb4a7ba/attachment.jpg>

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed May  7 14:52:23 2025
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2025 16:52:23 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
In-Reply-To: <1bda4c24-84c6-25dd-59f3-12aa532bc229@charter.net>
References: <1bda4c24-84c6-25dd-59f3-12aa532bc229@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkKvrs3o+bmodNA6Zbu4f=UWFXC49KtmDC0eF3sMP-N7Xg@mail.gmail.com>

I'm baffled!

#793 has the centre baffle ?

On Wed, May 7, 2025 at 3:04?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Thanks, Curt for that information. My car is the 519th built-without the
> center baffle and Michael's and my car look very much alike. I'm a stuck in
> the mud original guy so I would never add that panel and fortunately my car
> runs cool-about 70-80C on the gauge.(also an early item).
> By the way-you have a brief mention in my book-a photo you supplied.
> Regards, Hank
>
> --------------------
>
> From: "Curtis Arndt" <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
> To: "Jean Caron" <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
> Cc: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net>, "Michael Salter" <
> michaelsalter at gmail.com>, "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: May 7, 2025 at 6:20 AM PDT
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>
> Hank and Jean
>
> Michael is a long time member of the AH Concours Guidelines Committee, an
> early 100 expert and as such is well aware of this fact. I judged his car
> Concours gold as I recall several years ago at the Gettysburg Conclave and
> the vertical portion was not there as is correct for around the first 350
> BN1s. As such, there was no deduction for the missing panel.
>
> I have to assume that he now wants to add the panel to help improve
> cooling.
>
> As for his question, it can be done but will require drilling three 3/16"
> holes, two in the lower portion for 10-32 pan head phillips screws and one
> in the top center portion of the upper support. Both the grill and radiator
> may need to be removed. Pain in the butt if you ask me.
>
> If you want to improve cooling without permanently altering your very
> original car, I have several better options.
>
> Cheers
>
> Curtis Arndt
> AH Concours Guidelines Committee
>
> On Sun, May 4, 2025, 9:30?PM Jean Caron <
> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Michael,
>> I agree with Hank, your car did not come with this vertical panel but if
>> you have the grille removed you should be able to install one. You will
>> have to drill three holes, two in  the horizontal panels and one in the
>> bonnet hinge and cross brace assembly for the machined screw that holds the
>> top of the vertical panel in place.
>>
>> Jean
>> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
>> ------------------------------
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank Leach
>> via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 4, 2025 7:48:00 PM
>> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <
>> healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>>
>> Michael-the early cars did not always have the center baffle panel.  They
>> had the lower horizontal "apron" you describe but the vertical "modesty "
>> panel was added in late 53 into 54. Photo of my 53 #588 did not have the
>> vertical so you can see all the way thru the front. Since your car (#172?)
>> is early; my guess is that you never had the panel.  Are there mounting
>> holes in the horizontal apron to receive the lip of the vertical piece? The
>> later parts available came with drilled holes. Not sure you could install
>> one unless you remove the grille.  Hank
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: May 4, 2025 at 2:04 PM PDT
>> Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>> I have a BN1 with the radiator apron panel (horizontal behind and below
>> the grille in front of the radiator which usually has a division panel
>> attached to it) missing.
>> If I remove the horns and grille does anyone if this panel and the
>> division panel can be installed. Looks a bit tight but I don't want to have
>> to disturb the front shroud.
>> Thanks.
>>
>> M
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250507/375e8b52/attachment.htm>

From gradea1 at charter.net  Wed May  7 15:17:26 2025
From: gradea1 at charter.net (Hank Leach)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2025 21:17:26 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
Message-ID: <a0883566-9b17-0dec-1216-ec8d6e814b73@charter.net>

An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250507/ddf524d4/attachment.htm>

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Wed May  7 16:12:42 2025
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2025 18:12:42 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
In-Reply-To: <a0883566-9b17-0dec-1216-ec8d6e814b73@charter.net>
References: <a0883566-9b17-0dec-1216-ec8d6e814b73@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJ6jUWdeD+4fRKUYNcGWCSC22mz9+MydZWJP3hL+0Mjjw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Hank -

She has a two piece dash, with centrigrade temp guage and adjustable
steering wheel.

Yes that is my car.  You have all the correct data / color.

I thought I registered her a long time ago, I can do it.

Cheers,

Alan

On Wed, May 7, 2025 at 5:17?PM Hank Leach <gradea1 at charter.net> wrote:

> Alan- I can believe that. Body #793 was billed out on November 28, 1953
> and was destined to go to the US but was sent to Canada.  Rich Chrysler had
> the car. Fact says it was Coronet Cream with chassis #148521 and engine
> #139809.
> I would imagine from that late production date that it may have a
> Fahrenheit  temp gauge and one piece dash with non adjustable steering
> wheel. If that is your car I will note it on my registry, or you could
> register it yourself at: http://healeyhelper.com/early-100-registry/
> Hank
>
> --------------------
>
> From: "Alan Seigrist" <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: <gradea1 at charter.net>
> Cc: "Curtis Arndt" <cnaarndt at gmail.com>, "Jean Caron" <
> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>, "Healey List" <
> healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: May 7, 2025 at 1:52 PM PDT
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator apron
> I'm baffled!
>
> #793 has the centre baffle ?
>
> On Wed, May 7, 2025 at 3:04?PM Hank Leach via Healeys <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Thanks, Curt for that information. My car is the 519th built-without the
>> center baffle and Michael's and my car look very much alike. I'm a stuck in
>> the mud original guy so I would never add that panel and fortunately my car
>> runs cool-about 70-80C on the gauge.(also an early item).
>> By the way-you have a brief mention in my book-a photo you supplied.
>> Regards, Hank
>>
>> --------------------
>>
>> From: "Curtis Arndt" <cnaarndt at gmail.com>
>> To: "Jean Caron" <vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com>
>> Cc: "Hank Leach" <gradea1 at charter.net>, "Michael Salter" <
>> michaelsalter at gmail.com>, "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: May 7, 2025 at 6:20 AM PDT
>> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>>
>> Hank and Jean
>>
>> Michael is a long time member of the AH Concours Guidelines Committee, an
>> early 100 expert and as such is well aware of this fact. I judged his car
>> Concours gold as I recall several years ago at the Gettysburg Conclave and
>> the vertical portion was not there as is correct for around the first 350
>> BN1s. As such, there was no deduction for the missing panel.
>>
>> I have to assume that he now wants to add the panel to help improve
>> cooling.
>>
>> As for his question, it can be done but will require drilling three 3/16"
>> holes, two in the lower portion for 10-32 pan head phillips screws and one
>> in the top center portion of the upper support. Both the grill and radiator
>> may need to be removed. Pain in the butt if you ask me.
>>
>> If you want to improve cooling without permanently altering your very
>> original car, I have several better options.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Curtis Arndt
>> AH Concours Guidelines Committee
>>
>> On Sun, May 4, 2025, 9:30?PM Jean Caron <
>> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Michael,
>>> I agree with Hank, your car did not come with this vertical panel but if
>>> you have the grille removed you should be able to install one. You will
>>> have to drill three holes, two in  the horizontal panels and one in the
>>> bonnet hinge and cross brace assembly for the machined screw that holds the
>>> top of the vertical panel in place.
>>>
>>> Jean
>>> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank
>>> Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 4, 2025 7:48:00 PM
>>> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>>>
>>> Michael-the early cars did not always have the center baffle panel.
>>> They had the lower horizontal "apron" you describe but the vertical
>>> "modesty " panel was added in late 53 into 54. Photo of my 53 #588 did not
>>> have the vertical so you can see all the way thru the front. Since your car
>>> (#172?) is early; my guess is that you never had the panel.  Are there
>>> mounting holes in the horizontal apron to receive the lip of the vertical
>>> piece? The later parts available came with drilled holes. Not sure you
>>> could install one unless you remove the grille.  Hank
>>> --------------------
>>>
>>> From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: May 4, 2025 at 2:04 PM PDT
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>>> I have a BN1 with the radiator apron panel (horizontal behind and below
>>> the grille in front of the radiator which usually has a division panel
>>> attached to it) missing.
>>> If I remove the horns and grille does anyone if this panel and the
>>> division panel can be installed. Looks a bit tight but I don't want to have
>>> to disturb the front shroud.
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>>
>>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250507/93cbc961/attachment.htm>

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Thu May  8 06:55:26 2025
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2025 08:55:26 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLO5yoj466gpDYs=iJFoP9bG8Xiyc7XLPSbj13sw6ijqg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4dcb8cc1-a586-c4bb-bb50-b43334d8d4c3@charter.net>
 <BL0PR11MB3396E6A8DE177DD943DEF1BED18E2@BL0PR11MB3396.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJKrNeR5XGYwED-8ucw1o+w9gLdv10xSY7J1wxH80EzeUjupDA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLO5yoj466gpDYs=iJFoP9bG8Xiyc7XLPSbj13sw6ijqg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLsBt-iEDwrijnFjwrQN0SH=EGYEQD8d_pOiYSOaoEwaw@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to all who proffered an opinion regarding installing the apron
panel. I have now made a new panel and hope to be installing it soon.
I should add for the concous folks that the divider panels that I installed
on the outer edges of the apron panel of B#174 meerly clip onto the apron
and are easily removed to afford an unobstructed view from one front wheel
well to the other, which always looks a bit weird to me.

M

On Wed., May 7, 2025, 11:09 a.m. Michael Salter, <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> As I mentioned this issue is not with my early BN1 ... another car
> altogether.
> However that said, in order to improve the cooling cooling in traffic with
> my BN1, I  have installed vertical panels, very like the division panel
> used on later 100s, but at the ends of the apron panel. The improvement has
> be remarkable and is something I would recommend for any 100 with
> overheating issues.
>
>
> M
>
> On Wed., May 7, 2025, 9:20 a.m. Curtis Arndt, <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hank and Jean
>>
>> Michael is a long time member of the AH Concours Guidelines Committee, an
>> early 100 expert and as such is well aware of this fact. I judged his car
>> Concours gold as I recall several years ago at the Gettysburg Conclave and
>> the vertical portion was not there as is correct for around the first 350
>> BN1s. As such, there was no deduction for the missing panel.
>>
>> I have to assume that he now wants to add the panel to help improve
>> cooling.
>>
>> As for his question, it can be done but will require drilling three 3/16"
>> holes, two in the lower portion for 10-32 pan head phillips screws and one
>> in the top center portion of the upper support. Both the grill and radiator
>> may need to be removed. Pain in the butt if you ask me.
>>
>> If you want to improve cooling without permanently altering your very
>> original car, I have several better options.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Curtis Arndt
>> AH Concours Guidelines Committee
>>
>> On Sun, May 4, 2025, 9:30?PM Jean Caron <
>> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Michael,
>>> I agree with Hank, your car did not come with this vertical panel but if
>>> you have the grille removed you should be able to install one. You will
>>> have to drill three holes, two in  the horizontal panels and one in the
>>> bonnet hinge and cross brace assembly for the machined screw that holds the
>>> top of the vertical panel in place.
>>>
>>> Jean
>>>
>>> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
>>> ------------------------------
>>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank
>>> Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 4, 2025 7:48:00 PM
>>> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net <
>>> healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>>>
>>> Michael-the early cars did not always have the center baffle panel.
>>> They had the lower horizontal "apron" you describe but the vertical
>>> "modesty " panel was added in late 53 into 54. Photo of my 53 #588 did not
>>> have the vertical so you can see all the way thru the front. Since your car
>>> (#172?) is early; my guess is that you never had the panel.  Are there
>>> mounting holes in the horizontal apron to receive the lip of the vertical
>>> piece? The later parts available came with drilled holes. Not sure you
>>> could install one unless you remove the grille.  Hank
>>> --------------------
>>>
>>> From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>> Sent: May 4, 2025 at 2:04 PM PDT
>>> Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>>> I have a BN1 with the radiator apron panel (horizontal behind and below
>>> the grille in front of the radiator which usually has a division panel
>>> attached to it) missing.
>>> If I remove the horns and grille does anyone if this panel and the
>>> division panel can be installed. Looks a bit tight but I don't want to have
>>> to disturb the front shroud.
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> M
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>>
>>>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250508/10ce4814/attachment.htm>

From tappiokie at gmail.com  Thu May  8 07:13:16 2025
From: tappiokie at gmail.com (Jim Cox)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2025 09:13:16 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] (no subject)
Message-ID: <CACkEpkQELmxMBnZz4rp4+ySRwPWsL73qN3HPXbFdiN61p_FoDg@mail.gmail.com>

Consider contacting Allan Hendrix at Hendrix Wire Wheels in Greensboro,  NC
for advice.
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250508/0cadfddc/attachment.htm>

From britishauto at gmail.com  Thu May  8 08:11:31 2025
From: britishauto at gmail.com (Jake V)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2025 10:11:31 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLsBt-iEDwrijnFjwrQN0SH=EGYEQD8d_pOiYSOaoEwaw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4dcb8cc1-a586-c4bb-bb50-b43334d8d4c3@charter.net>
 <BL0PR11MB3396E6A8DE177DD943DEF1BED18E2@BL0PR11MB3396.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAJKrNeR5XGYwED-8ucw1o+w9gLdv10xSY7J1wxH80EzeUjupDA@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLO5yoj466gpDYs=iJFoP9bG8Xiyc7XLPSbj13sw6ijqg@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAB3i7LLsBt-iEDwrijnFjwrQN0SH=EGYEQD8d_pOiYSOaoEwaw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAACo9bAJzzZ5qMnJMztrPRArT3sLixKv-sdqrxkoeXoZ4KiKqQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Michael,
Do you have any pictures of how this looks in your car?
Thanks,
Jake

On Thu, May 8, 2025 at 9:39?AM Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Thanks to all who proffered an opinion regarding installing the apron
> panel. I have now made a new panel and hope to be installing it soon.
> I should add for the concous folks that the divider panels that I
> installed on the outer edges of the apron panel of B#174 meerly clip onto
> the apron and are easily removed to afford an unobstructed view from one
> front wheel well to the other, which always looks a bit weird to me.
>
> M
>
> On Wed., May 7, 2025, 11:09 a.m. Michael Salter, <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> As I mentioned this issue is not with my early BN1 ... another car
>> altogether.
>> However that said, in order to improve the cooling cooling in traffic
>> with my BN1, I  have installed vertical panels, very like the division
>> panel used on later 100s, but at the ends of the apron panel. The
>> improvement has be remarkable and is something I would recommend for any
>> 100 with overheating issues.
>>
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Wed., May 7, 2025, 9:20 a.m. Curtis Arndt, <cnaarndt at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hank and Jean
>>>
>>> Michael is a long time member of the AH Concours Guidelines Committee,
>>> an early 100 expert and as such is well aware of this fact. I judged his
>>> car Concours gold as I recall several years ago at the Gettysburg Conclave
>>> and the vertical portion was not there as is correct for around the first
>>> 350 BN1s. As such, there was no deduction for the missing panel.
>>>
>>> I have to assume that he now wants to add the panel to help improve
>>> cooling.
>>>
>>> As for his question, it can be done but will require drilling three
>>> 3/16" holes, two in the lower portion for 10-32 pan head phillips screws
>>> and one in the top center portion of the upper support. Both the grill and
>>> radiator may need to be removed. Pain in the butt if you ask me.
>>>
>>> If you want to improve cooling without permanently altering your very
>>> original car, I have several better options.
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> Curtis Arndt
>>> AH Concours Guidelines Committee
>>>
>>> On Sun, May 4, 2025, 9:30?PM Jean Caron <
>>> vintage_roadster_restoration at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Michael,
>>>> I agree with Hank, your car did not come with this vertical panel but
>>>> if you have the grille removed you should be able to install one. You will
>>>> have to drill three holes, two in  the horizontal panels and one in the
>>>> bonnet hinge and cross brace assembly for the machined screw that holds the
>>>> top of the vertical panel in place.
>>>>
>>>> Jean
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada?s largest network.
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Hank
>>>> Leach via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 4, 2025 7:48:00 PM
>>>> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>; healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>>>>
>>>> Michael-the early cars did not always have the center baffle panel.
>>>> They had the lower horizontal "apron" you describe but the vertical
>>>> "modesty " panel was added in late 53 into 54. Photo of my 53 #588 did not
>>>> have the vertical so you can see all the way thru the front. Since your car
>>>> (#172?) is early; my guess is that you never had the panel.  Are there
>>>> mounting holes in the horizontal apron to receive the lip of the vertical
>>>> piece? The later parts available came with drilled holes. Not sure you
>>>> could install one unless you remove the grille.  Hank
>>>> --------------------
>>>>
>>>> From: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
>>>> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
>>>> Sent: May 4, 2025 at 2:04 PM PDT
>>>> Subject: [Healeys] Radiator apron
>>>> I have a BN1 with the radiator apron panel (horizontal behind and below
>>>> the grille in front of the radiator which usually has a division panel
>>>> attached to it) missing.
>>>> If I remove the horns and grille does anyone if this panel and the
>>>> division panel can be installed. Looks a bit tight but I don't want to have
>>>> to disturb the front shroud.
>>>> Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> M
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/cnaarndt at gmail.com
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishauto at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250508/1daece06/attachment.htm>

From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu May  8 16:26:41 2025
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2025 22:26:41 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Carb queries on a Tricarb with 3 HD6s
Message-ID: <CWLP265MB1492ADC08666D015540DE2BDF38BA@CWLP265MB1492.GBRP265.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

They are HD6s, not HS4s.
A good local mechanic pointed out that my three "piston lifting pins" don't drop with a satisfactory click or whatever. He suggested that this indicates that the jets are not correctly centred. He proposes taking the carbs off the car and centring them appropriately.

  1.
How important is this "click"? Not centred correctly....does this effect performance? Presumably their falling at different speeds indicates a certain lack of synchronicity between the carbs??
  2.
Am I going to need new jets? Approx ?43:00 each. Seems to me that being screwed down into wrong position may have distorted the rubber.....

I could do the work myself but fear that other things are getting in the way right now.
Simon

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250508/265d9e56/attachment.htm>

From bspidell at comcast.net  Thu May  8 21:30:41 2025
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2025 20:30:41 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Carb queries on a Tricarb with 3 HD6s
In-Reply-To: <CWLP265MB1492ADC08666D015540DE2BDF38BA@CWLP265MB1492.GBRP265.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <CWLP265MB1492ADC08666D015540DE2BDF38BA@CWLP265MB1492.GBRP265.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <f7e159b7-02d1-43b1-8698-a10aaa278121@comcast.net>

The issue with jets not being centered--besides the 'drop test'--is that 
the needles will rub against the jets and eventually cause the orifice 
them to become oblonged. This makes the already somewhat crude metering 
of fuel into the carb throats even less precise. The jet is held in 
place by a 'bearing'--really more of a sleeve--which is loosened to 
allow the jet to be positioned. I don't think the diaphragm is an 
issue--it can only be assembled one way--unless it was really bodged. I 
/think /it might be possible to do in situ, but on the bench would be 
easiest. If you haven't replaced the jets in over 20 years or so it 
would be a good idea to replace with ethanol-resistant ones.

I'm a fan of this little kit (it was probably half this price when I 
bought it years ago). The little knob thing is a jet centering tool; it 
replaces a needle in the piston and centers the jet properly. I used it 
to center the jets on my HD8s over 20 years ago and haven't had to touch 
them. The little end wrench is useful for setting jet height on non-HD 
carbs and, if you want to try the 'lift piston 1/32" test' the wire 
points are the best way to do it.

https://mossmotors.com/386-300-carburetor-tool-kit-su


On 5/8/2025 3:26 PM, simon.lachlan--- via Healeys wrote:
> They_?are_?HD6s, not HS4s.
> A good local mechanic pointed out that my three "piston lifting pins" 
> don't drop with a satisfactory click or whatever. He suggested that 
> this indicates that the jets are not correctly centred. He proposes 
> taking the carbs off the car and centring them appropriately.
>
> 1.
>     How important is this "click"? Not centred correctly....does this
>     effect performance? Presumably their falling at different speeds
>     indicates a certain lack of synchronicity between the carbs??
> 2.
>     Am I going to need new jets? Approx ?43:00 each. Seems to me that
>     being screwed down into wrong position may have distorted the
>     rubber.....
>
> I could do the work myself but fear that other things are getting in 
> the way right now.
> Simon
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250508/00e21142/attachment.htm>

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Fri May  9 15:31:10 2025
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2025 17:31:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Carb queries on a Tricarb with 3 HD6s
In-Reply-To: <f7e159b7-02d1-43b1-8698-a10aaa278121@comcast.net>
References: <CWLP265MB1492ADC08666D015540DE2BDF38BA@CWLP265MB1492.GBRP265.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
 <f7e159b7-02d1-43b1-8698-a10aaa278121@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkLBkogLat_t4HWB2ZqcGmSM7gQRb0Smw_vxOMsaH3UZcg@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Simon -

The click is very important because without it, no click will lead to
needle wear and your car will never idle properly.  eventually the car will
run rich and waste fuel.

On HDs it is not possible to center the jet without removing the carbs.
It's actually a fairly quick procedure and can be done in the course of a
morning if you are motivated.

Best,

Alan

On Thu, May 8, 2025 at 11:48?PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> The issue with jets not being centered--besides the 'drop test'--is that
> the needles will rub against the jets and eventually cause the orifice them
> to become oblonged. This makes the already somewhat crude metering of fuel
> into the carb throats even less precise. The jet is held in place by a
> 'bearing'--really more of a sleeve--which is loosened to allow the jet to
> be positioned. I don't think the diaphragm is an issue--it can only be
> assembled one way--unless it was really bodged. I *think *it might be
> possible to do in situ, but on the bench would be easiest. If you haven't
> replaced the jets in over 20 years or so it would be a good idea to replace
> with ethanol-resistant ones.
>
> I'm a fan of this little kit (it was probably half this price when I
> bought it years ago). The little knob thing is a jet centering tool; it
> replaces a needle in the piston and centers the jet properly. I used it to
> center the jets on my HD8s over 20 years ago and haven't had to touch them.
> The little end wrench is useful for setting jet height on non-HD carbs and,
> if you want to try the 'lift piston 1/32" test' the wire points are the
> best way to do it.
>
> https://mossmotors.com/386-300-carburetor-tool-kit-su
>
>
> On 5/8/2025 3:26 PM, simon.lachlan--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> They* are* HD6s, not HS4s.
> A good local mechanic pointed out that my three "piston lifting pins"
> don't drop with a satisfactory click or whatever. He suggested that this
> indicates that the jets are not correctly centred. He proposes taking the
> carbs off the car and centring them appropriately.
>
>    1. How important is this "click"? Not centred correctly....does this
>    effect performance? Presumably their falling at different speeds indicates
>    a certain lack of synchronicity between the carbs??
>    2. Am I going to need new jets? Approx ?43:00 each. Seems to me that
>    being screwed down into wrong position may have distorted the rubber.....
>
> I could do the work myself but fear that other things are getting in the
> way right now.
> Simon
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250509/a60f4e57/attachment.htm>

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue May 13 19:41:17 2025
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2025 18:41:17 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence
Message-ID: <aefa2c8b-e674-4b0b-88f2-867ff81d6851@comcast.net>

Listers,

Just noticed, after a short local drive my BN2 was peeing oil out the 
driver (L/H) side of the engine. I won't get to a diagnosis and fix for 
a couple weeks; just wondering if anybody has a guess. My first thought 
was the OP gauge fitting came loose or the line broke, but the gauge was 
indicating fine as was the temp gauge.

Any guesses?

Bob

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue May 13 20:22:35 2025
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2025 22:22:35 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence
In-Reply-To: <aefa2c8b-e674-4b0b-88f2-867ff81d6851@comcast.net>
References: <aefa2c8b-e674-4b0b-88f2-867ff81d6851@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LK3D8BhCYzU++9zn-KS78bEB6uMg+qkk92Oxjt72HfwNg@mail.gmail.com>

The oil pressure take off is on the right side of the engine Bob. My guess
would be the tachometer drive, the seal on the shaft hardens and cracks (
probably only about 70 years old, they don't make them to last) or the
tappet cover. I  have found that the tappet cover screws need to be gently
retightened af a few hours of operation. On the 100S they were all lock
wired which tells you something!!

M

On Tue., May 13, 2025, 9:46 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Just noticed, after a short local drive my BN2 was peeing oil out the
> driver (L/H) side of the engine. I won't get to a diagnosis and fix for
> a couple weeks; just wondering if anybody has a guess. My first thought
> was the OP gauge fitting came loose or the line broke, but the gauge was
> indicating fine as was the temp gauge.
>
> Any guesses?
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250513/8c189e8d/attachment.htm>

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue May 13 20:32:18 2025
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2025 19:32:18 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LK3D8BhCYzU++9zn-KS78bEB6uMg+qkk92Oxjt72HfwNg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <aefa2c8b-e674-4b0b-88f2-867ff81d6851@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LK3D8BhCYzU++9zn-KS78bEB6uMg+qkk92Oxjt72HfwNg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <aadb4f1b-c6d4-4586-aa5b-c33aa93b5568@comcast.net>

Ah, yeah, now I remember having to route the OP line across the scuttle. 
But, the tach drive is off the distributor, on the R/H side, no? I 
replaced the seal when we rebuilt the engine.

Tappet cover, IIRC, is on the L/H side; that was my first guess since 
the oil isn't contaminated (until it hits the pavement). I didn't learn 
until after the rebuild that one of the tappet cover screws has to be 
shorter, lest one of the tappets hit it; always wondered if I did that 
right or not.

bs

On 5/13/2025 7:22 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> The oil pressure take off is on the right side of the engine Bob. My 
> guess would be the tachometer drive, the seal on the shaft hardens and 
> cracks ( probably only about 70 years old, they don't make them to 
> last) or the tappet cover. I? have found that the tappet cover screws 
> need to be gently retightened af a few hours of operation. On the 100S 
> they were all lock wired which tells you something!!
>
> M
>
> On Tue., May 13, 2025, 9:46 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     Listers,
>
>     Just noticed, after a short local drive my BN2 was peeing oil out the
>     driver (L/H) side of the engine. I won't get to a diagnosis and
>     fix for
>     a couple weeks; just wondering if anybody has a guess. My first
>     thought
>     was the OP gauge fitting came loose or the line broke, but the
>     gauge was
>     indicating fine as was the temp gauge.
>
>     Any guesses?
>
>     Bob
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250513/1d023213/attachment.htm>

From michaelsalter at gmail.com  Tue May 13 20:52:32 2025
From: michaelsalter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2025 22:52:32 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence
In-Reply-To: <aadb4f1b-c6d4-4586-aa5b-c33aa93b5568@comcast.net>
References: <aefa2c8b-e674-4b0b-88f2-867ff81d6851@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LK3D8BhCYzU++9zn-KS78bEB6uMg+qkk92Oxjt72HfwNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <aadb4f1b-c6d4-4586-aa5b-c33aa93b5568@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAB3i7LLEyOZ1gdWxyT27ajh98SBVebEqXEHnp5bLZGAh_Z-WvQ@mail.gmail.com>

No, on the BN2 the tach drive is a skew gearbox taken from the top of the
oil pump shaft. Very conveniently pasitioned under the exhaust manifold.
Bit of a pain to remove because a couple of the tappet cover screws are in
the way. The tach drive is on the distributor of the 6 cylinder engines,
much more conveniently located.

On Tue., May 13, 2025, 10:32 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:

> Ah, yeah, now I remember having to route the OP line across the scuttle.
> But, the tach drive is off the distributor, on the R/H side, no? I replaced
> the seal when we rebuilt the engine.
>
> Tappet cover, IIRC, is on the L/H side; that was my first guess since the
> oil isn't contaminated (until it hits the pavement). I didn't learn until
> after the rebuild that one of the tappet cover screws has to be shorter,
> lest one of the tappets hit it; always wondered if I did that right or not.
>
> bs
>
> On 5/13/2025 7:22 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> The oil pressure take off is on the right side of the engine Bob. My guess
> would be the tachometer drive, the seal on the shaft hardens and cracks (
> probably only about 70 years old, they don't make them to last) or the
> tappet cover. I  have found that the tappet cover screws need to be gently
> retightened af a few hours of operation. On the 100S they were all lock
> wired which tells you something!!
>
> M
>
> On Tue., May 13, 2025, 9:46 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> Listers,
>>
>> Just noticed, after a short local drive my BN2 was peeing oil out the
>> driver (L/H) side of the engine. I won't get to a diagnosis and fix for
>> a couple weeks; just wondering if anybody has a guess. My first thought
>> was the OP gauge fitting came loose or the line broke, but the gauge was
>> indicating fine as was the temp gauge.
>>
>> Any guesses?
>>
>> Bob
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250513/df27039a/attachment.htm>

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue May 13 20:56:27 2025
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2025 19:56:27 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence
In-Reply-To: <CAB3i7LLEyOZ1gdWxyT27ajh98SBVebEqXEHnp5bLZGAh_Z-WvQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <aefa2c8b-e674-4b0b-88f2-867ff81d6851@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LK3D8BhCYzU++9zn-KS78bEB6uMg+qkk92Oxjt72HfwNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <aadb4f1b-c6d4-4586-aa5b-c33aa93b5568@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LLEyOZ1gdWxyT27ajh98SBVebEqXEHnp5bLZGAh_Z-WvQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <72d59a7e-70e2-415f-a648-d7d8b762dc4f@comcast.net>

OK, now I remember (I get my Healey engines mixed-up sometimes). I 
replaced the tach drive cable and it was a PITA; I think it's a good 
candidate for the leak as it seems to be coming from that area. I'm 
gonna pull the carbs and manifolds and install your PCV kit after I get 
the grill back in the BJ8 (just installed a DWM steering shaft).

Thanks,
Bob

On 5/13/2025 7:52 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> No, on the BN2 the tach drive is a skew gearbox taken from the top of 
> the oil pump shaft. Very conveniently pasitioned under the exhaust 
> manifold. Bit of a pain to remove because a couple of the tappet cover 
> screws are in the way. The tach drive is on the distributor of the 6 
> cylinder engines, much more conveniently located.
>
>
> On Tue., May 13, 2025, 10:32 p.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell at comcast.net> 
> wrote:
>
>     Ah, yeah, now I remember having to route the OP line across the
>     scuttle. But, the tach drive is off the distributor, on the R/H
>     side, no? I replaced the seal when we rebuilt the engine.
>
>     Tappet cover, IIRC, is on the L/H side; that was my first guess
>     since the oil isn't contaminated (until it hits the pavement). I
>     didn't learn until after the rebuild that one of the tappet cover
>     screws has to be shorter, lest one of the tappets hit it; always
>     wondered if I did that right or not.
>
>     bs
>
>     On 5/13/2025 7:22 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>     The oil pressure take off is on the right side of the engine Bob.
>>     My guess would be the tachometer drive, the seal on the shaft
>>     hardens and cracks ( probably only about 70 years old, they don't
>>     make them to last) or the tappet cover. I? have found that the
>>     tappet cover screws need to be gently retightened af a few hours
>>     of operation. On the 100S they were all lock wired which tells
>>     you something!!
>>
>>     M
>>
>>     On Tue., May 13, 2025, 9:46 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys,
>>     <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>         Listers,
>>
>>         Just noticed, after a short local drive my BN2 was peeing oil
>>         out the
>>         driver (L/H) side of the engine. I won't get to a diagnosis
>>         and fix for
>>         a couple weeks; just wondering if anybody has a guess. My
>>         first thought
>>         was the OP gauge fitting came loose or the line broke, but
>>         the gauge was
>>         indicating fine as was the temp gauge.
>>
>>         Any guesses?
>>
>>         Bob
>>         _______________________________________________
>>         Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>         Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>         Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>         http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>>         Healeys at autox.team.net
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>>         Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250513/7943b24e/attachment.htm>

From p.cquinn at outlook.com  Tue May 13 21:24:02 2025
From: p.cquinn at outlook.com (Patrick and Caroline Quinn)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2025 03:24:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence
In-Reply-To: <aadb4f1b-c6d4-4586-aa5b-c33aa93b5568@comcast.net>
References: <aefa2c8b-e674-4b0b-88f2-867ff81d6851@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LK3D8BhCYzU++9zn-KS78bEB6uMg+qkk92Oxjt72HfwNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <aadb4f1b-c6d4-4586-aa5b-c33aa93b5568@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <OSQPR01MB643021AFC51321E15FB171C48C91A@OSQPR01MB6430.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>

G?day

In a four-cylinder engine in the BN2 the tach drive is located on the driver?s side (LHD car) on the side of the block under the exhaust.

IN a six-cylinder it?s off the distributor drive on the other side.

Hoo Roo

Patrick Quinn
Blue Mountains, Australia

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, 14 May 2025 12:32 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence

Ah, yeah, now I remember having to route the OP line across the scuttle. But, the tach drive is off the distributor, on the R/H side, no? I replaced the seal when we rebuilt the engine.

Tappet cover, IIRC, is on the L/H side; that was my first guess since the oil isn't contaminated (until it hits the pavement). I didn't learn until after the rebuild that one of the tappet cover screws has to be shorter, lest one of the tappets hit it; always wondered if I did that right or not.

bs
On 5/13/2025 7:22 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
The oil pressure take off is on the right side of the engine Bob. My guess would be the tachometer drive, the seal on the shaft hardens and cracks ( probably only about 70 years old, they don't make them to last) or the tappet cover. I  have found that the tappet cover screws need to be gently retightened af a few hours of operation. On the 100S they were all lock wired which tells you something!!

M

On Tue., May 13, 2025, 9:46 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Listers,

Just noticed, after a short local drive my BN2 was peeing oil out the
driver (L/H) side of the engine. I won't get to a diagnosis and fix for
a couple weeks; just wondering if anybody has a guess. My first thought
was the OP gauge fitting came loose or the line broke, but the gauge was
indicating fine as was the temp gauge.

Any guesses?

Bob
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250514/06344e2d/attachment.htm>

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Wed May 14 05:28:01 2025
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2025 07:28:01 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence
In-Reply-To: <OSQPR01MB643021AFC51321E15FB171C48C91A@OSQPR01MB6430.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <aefa2c8b-e674-4b0b-88f2-867ff81d6851@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LK3D8BhCYzU++9zn-KS78bEB6uMg+qkk92Oxjt72HfwNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <aadb4f1b-c6d4-4586-aa5b-c33aa93b5568@comcast.net>
 <OSQPR01MB643021AFC51321E15FB171C48C91A@OSQPR01MB6430.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7zEiGDDNF2Hr=QjPYPb0zRMwxRTp8zQB-k6rL__k+38A@mail.gmail.com>

Having just this week replaced the tach cable on my 100 I can attest that
it is on the left side of the engine.  While it might be possible to attack
it from above in most cars the CAB on my LeMans precluded that but It is
fairly easy to get at from underneath.

On Wed, May 14, 2025 at 12:52?AM Patrick and Caroline Quinn <
p.cquinn at outlook.com> wrote:

> G?day
>
>
>
> In a four-cylinder engine in the BN2 the tach drive is located on the
> driver?s side (LHD car) on the side of the block under the exhaust.
>
>
>
> IN a six-cylinder it?s off the distributor drive on the other side.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Bob
> Spidell via Healeys
> *Sent:* Wednesday, 14 May 2025 12:32 PM
> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence
>
>
>
> Ah, yeah, now I remember having to route the OP line across the scuttle.
> But, the tach drive is off the distributor, on the R/H side, no? I replaced
> the seal when we rebuilt the engine.
>
> Tappet cover, IIRC, is on the L/H side; that was my first guess since the
> oil isn't contaminated (until it hits the pavement). I didn't learn until
> after the rebuild that one of the tappet cover screws has to be shorter,
> lest one of the tappets hit it; always wondered if I did that right or not.
>
> bs
>
> On 5/13/2025 7:22 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> The oil pressure take off is on the right side of the engine Bob. My guess
> would be the tachometer drive, the seal on the shaft hardens and cracks (
> probably only about 70 years old, they don't make them to last) or the
> tappet cover. I  have found that the tappet cover screws need to be gently
> retightened af a few hours of operation. On the 100S they were all lock
> wired which tells you something!!
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Tue., May 13, 2025, 9:46 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Just noticed, after a short local drive my BN2 was peeing oil out the
> driver (L/H) side of the engine. I won't get to a diagnosis and fix for
> a couple weeks; just wondering if anybody has a guess. My first thought
> was the OP gauge fitting came loose or the line broke, but the gauge was
> indicating fine as was the temp gauge.
>
> Any guesses?
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250514/c966b228/attachment.htm>

From warthodson at aol.com  Mon May 19 07:44:43 2025
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2025 13:44:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence
In-Reply-To: <OSQPR01MB643021AFC51321E15FB171C48C91A@OSQPR01MB6430.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
References: <aefa2c8b-e674-4b0b-88f2-867ff81d6851@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LK3D8BhCYzU++9zn-KS78bEB6uMg+qkk92Oxjt72HfwNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <aadb4f1b-c6d4-4586-aa5b-c33aa93b5568@comcast.net>
 <OSQPR01MB643021AFC51321E15FB171C48C91A@OSQPR01MB6430.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
Message-ID: <1108651001.1799217.1747662283595@mail.yahoo.com>

 Is the tach drive in a BN1 also on the driver's side (LHD car) on the side of the block under the exhaust?
    On Wednesday, May 14, 2025 at 04:39:33 AM CDT, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <p.cquinn at outlook.com> wrote:   

 
G?day
 
 ?
 
In a four-cylinder engine in the BN2 the tach drive is located on the driver?s side (LHD car) on the side of the block under the exhaust.
 
 ?
 
IN a six-cylinder it?s off the distributor drive on the other side.
 
 ?
 
Hoo Roo
 
 ?
 
Patrick Quinn
 
Blue Mountains, Australia
 
 ?
 
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via Healeys
Sent: Wednesday, 14 May 2025 12:32 PM
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
Cc: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence
 
 ?
 
Ah, yeah, now I remember having to route the OP line across the scuttle. But, the tach drive is off the distributor, on the R/H side, no? I replaced the seal when we rebuilt the engine.

Tappet cover, IIRC, is on the L/H side; that was my first guess since the oil isn't contaminated (until it hits the pavement). I didn't learn until after the rebuild that one of the tappet cover screws has to be shorter, lest one of the tappets hit it; always wondered if I did that right or not. 

bs
 
On 5/13/2025 7:22 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
 

The oil pressure take off is on the right side of the engine Bob. My guess would be the tachometer drive, the seal on the shaft hardens and cracks ( probably only about 70 years old, they don't make them to last) or the tappet cover. I? have found that the tappet cover screws need to be gently retightened af a few hours of operation. On the 100S they were all lock wired which tells you something!!
 
 ?
 
M
 
 ?
 
On Tue., May 13, 2025, 9:46 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
 

Listers,

Just noticed, after a short local drive my BN2 was peeing oil out the 
driver (L/H) side of the engine. I won't get to a diagnosis and fix for 
a couple weeks; just wondering if anybody has a guess. My first thought 
was the OP gauge fitting came loose or the line broke, but the gauge was 
indicating fine as was the temp gauge.

Any guesses?

Bob
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeyshttp://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
 


 ?
 _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250519/006feb08/attachment.htm>

From michael.oritt at gmail.com  Mon May 19 09:02:38 2025
From: michael.oritt at gmail.com (Michael Oritt)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2025 11:02:38 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence
In-Reply-To: <1108651001.1799217.1747662283595@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <aefa2c8b-e674-4b0b-88f2-867ff81d6851@comcast.net>
 <CAB3i7LK3D8BhCYzU++9zn-KS78bEB6uMg+qkk92Oxjt72HfwNg@mail.gmail.com>
 <aadb4f1b-c6d4-4586-aa5b-c33aa93b5568@comcast.net>
 <OSQPR01MB643021AFC51321E15FB171C48C91A@OSQPR01MB6430.apcprd01.prod.exchangelabs.com>
 <1108651001.1799217.1747662283595@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAPTa0B7AjCXR8JBL+PDa+rY-hVadPU7tG=ACeT-ttjMA8J36Eg@mail.gmail.com>

It is on the left side of the block below the exhaust manifold--the cable's
running horizontally.

On Mon, May 19, 2025 at 10:08?AM warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Is the tach drive in a BN1 also on the driver's side (LHD car) on the side
> of the block under the exhaust?
>
> On Wednesday, May 14, 2025 at 04:39:33 AM CDT, Patrick and Caroline Quinn <
> p.cquinn at outlook.com> wrote:
>
>
> G?day
>
>
>
> In a four-cylinder engine in the BN2 the tach drive is located on the
> driver?s side (LHD car) on the side of the block under the exhaust.
>
>
>
> IN a six-cylinder it?s off the distributor drive on the other side.
>
>
>
> Hoo Roo
>
>
>
> Patrick Quinn
>
> Blue Mountains, Australia
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Bob
> Spidell via Healeys
> *Sent:* Wednesday, 14 May 2025 12:32 PM
> *To:* Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Incontinence
>
>
>
> Ah, yeah, now I remember having to route the OP line across the scuttle.
> But, the tach drive is off the distributor, on the R/H side, no? I replaced
> the seal when we rebuilt the engine.
>
> Tappet cover, IIRC, is on the L/H side; that was my first guess since the
> oil isn't contaminated (until it hits the pavement). I didn't learn until
> after the rebuild that one of the tappet cover screws has to be shorter,
> lest one of the tappets hit it; always wondered if I did that right or not.
>
> bs
>
> On 5/13/2025 7:22 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> The oil pressure take off is on the right side of the engine Bob. My guess
> would be the tachometer drive, the seal on the shaft hardens and cracks (
> probably only about 70 years old, they don't make them to last) or the
> tappet cover. I  have found that the tappet cover screws need to be gently
> retightened af a few hours of operation. On the 100S they were all lock
> wired which tells you something!!
>
>
>
> M
>
>
>
> On Tue., May 13, 2025, 9:46 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <
> healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> Just noticed, after a short local drive my BN2 was peeing oil out the
> driver (L/H) side of the engine. I won't get to a diagnosis and fix for
> a couple weeks; just wondering if anybody has a guess. My first thought
> was the OP gauge fitting came loose or the line broke, but the gauge was
> indicating fine as was the temp gauge.
>
> Any guesses?
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter at gmail.com
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250519/a01f4f0c/attachment.htm>

From rantal243 at yahoo.com  Tue May 20 14:20:40 2025
From: rantal243 at yahoo.com (Richard Antal)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2025 20:20:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake pedal problem
References: <972470940.2754758.1747772440523.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <972470940.2754758.1747772440523@mail.yahoo.com>

Greetings Healeyphiles,???? After a long winter's rest, I drove my BJ8 for the first time this year and noticed immediately that I had to depress the brake pedal far down before braking began, but if I pumped the pedal a few times the brake pedal commenced functioning more promptly. This improvement was fleeting but reproducible. The brake fluid reservoir is topped off. What might be the cause and solution of this problem. Thanks for all help.rich antal
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250520/6daa8d20/attachment.htm>

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 20 18:29:01 2025
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (JSARCH)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2025 17:29:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake pedal problem
In-Reply-To: <972470940.2754758.1747772440523@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <972470940.2754758.1747772440523.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <972470940.2754758.1747772440523@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <020b01dbc9e7$5a98e700$0fcab500$@sbcglobal.net>

The brakes need to bleed because there is air in the brake lines. First, check the slave and master cylinders to see if you can see any fluid leaks. Bleed each slave cylinder making sure not to introduce any air at the nipple. If the problem persists you will need to rebuild the cylinders. There are kits do that and it is not difficult. The hardest task is to remove and reinstall the master cylinder.

 

John,

?62 BT7

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Antal via Healeys
Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2025 1:21 PM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Brake pedal problem

 

Greetings Healeyphiles,

     After a long winter's rest, I drove my BJ8 for the first time this year and noticed immediately that I had to depress the brake pedal far down before braking began, but if I pumped the pedal a few times the brake pedal commenced functioning more promptly. This improvement was fleeting but reproducible. The brake fluid reservoir is topped off. What might be the cause and solution of this problem. Thanks for all help.

rich antal

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250520/1527a715/attachment.htm>

From healey.nut at gmail.com  Tue May 20 19:03:24 2025
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2025 09:03:24 +0800
Subject: [Healeys] Brake pedal problem
In-Reply-To: <020b01dbc9e7$5a98e700$0fcab500$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <972470940.2754758.1747772440523.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <972470940.2754758.1747772440523@mail.yahoo.com>
 <020b01dbc9e7$5a98e700$0fcab500$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTk+-fJ08cLcJmsVG6dczzxTxwv1gxXiAjO45V8WB9zovxg@mail.gmail.com>

If you are getting air in the system after sitting for a while, I would
check for loose brake bleeders or brake lines

On Wed, 21 May 2025 at 8:42?AM, JSARCH via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> The brakes need to bleed because there is air in the brake lines. First,
> check the slave and master cylinders to see if you can see any fluid leaks.
> Bleed each slave cylinder making sure not to introduce any air at the
> nipple. If the problem persists you will need to rebuild the cylinders.
> There are kits do that and it is not difficult. The hardest task is to
> remove and reinstall the master cylinder.
>
>
>
> John,
>
> ?62 BT7
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Richard
> Antal via Healeys
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 20, 2025 1:21 PM
> *To:* Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Brake pedal problem
>
>
>
> Greetings Healeyphiles,
>
>      After a long winter's rest, I drove my BJ8 for the first time this
> year and noticed immediately that I had to depress the brake pedal far down
> before braking began, but if I pumped the pedal a few times the brake pedal
> commenced functioning more promptly. This improvement was fleeting but
> reproducible. The brake fluid reservoir is topped off. What might be the
> cause and solution of this problem. Thanks for all help.
>
> rich antal
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250521/5ba1ad36/attachment.htm>

From bspidell at comcast.net  Tue May 20 21:43:23 2025
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2025 20:43:23 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake pedal problem
In-Reply-To: <972470940.2754758.1747772440523@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <972470940.2754758.1747772440523.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <972470940.2754758.1747772440523@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4dff697a-d938-4413-a8a8-f4e1a65ff966@comcast.net>

I drove my BJ8 over 2,000 miles on a road trip with a similar problem, 
though it was more consistent. On teardown of the M/C I found that the 
seal on the 'foot valve' was damaged. This is a seal that closes the 
feed line to the reservoir when brakes are applied. Simple test: Have 
someone work the brakes as you closely watch the fluid level in the 
reservoir; if it rises or ripples when brakes are applied that's your 
problem.

On 5/20/2025 1:20 PM, Richard Antal via Healeys wrote:
> Greetings Healeyphiles,
> ???? After a long winter's rest, I drove my BJ8 for the first time 
> this year and noticed immediately that I had to depress the brake 
> pedal far down before braking began, but if I pumped the pedal a few 
> times the brake pedal commenced functioning more promptly. This 
> improvement was fleeting but reproducible. The brake fluid reservoir 
> is topped off. What might be the cause and solution of this problem. 
> Thanks for all help.
> rich antal
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250520/510e2b9b/attachment.htm>

From warthodson at aol.com  Wed May 21 07:00:37 2025
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2025 13:00:37 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Brake pedal problem
In-Reply-To: <4dff697a-d938-4413-a8a8-f4e1a65ff966@comcast.net>
References: <972470940.2754758.1747772440523.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <972470940.2754758.1747772440523@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4dff697a-d938-4413-a8a8-f4e1a65ff966@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <393242652.563944.1747832437925@mail.yahoo.com>

 Is it possible for the brake booster to produce these symptoms??Gary Hodson?
    On Tuesday, May 20, 2025 at 11:08:52 PM CDT, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:   

  I drove my BJ8 over 2,000 miles on a road trip with a similar problem, though it was more consistent. On teardown of the M/C I found that the seal on the 'foot valve' was damaged. This is a seal that closes the feed line to the reservoir when brakes are applied. Simple test: Have someone work the brakes as you closely watch the fluid level in the reservoir; if it rises or ripples when brakes are applied that's your problem.
 
 On 5/20/2025 1:20 PM, Richard Antal via Healeys wrote:
  
 
 Greetings Healeyphiles, ???? After a long winter's rest, I drove my BJ8 for the first time this year and noticed immediately that I had to depress the brake pedal far down before braking began, but if I pumped the pedal a few times the brake pedal commenced functioning more promptly. This improvement was fleeting but reproducible. The brake fluid reservoir is topped off. What might be the cause and solution of this problem. Thanks for all help. rich antal  
 _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250521/79e5b34c/attachment.htm>

From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed May 21 08:53:00 2025
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2025 07:53:00 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Brake pedal problem
In-Reply-To: <393242652.563944.1747832437925@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <972470940.2754758.1747772440523.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <972470940.2754758.1747772440523@mail.yahoo.com>
 <4dff697a-d938-4413-a8a8-f4e1a65ff966@comcast.net>
 <393242652.563944.1747832437925@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <52e086f4-7403-47b4-938b-7f5f69c05aa1@comcast.net>

Theoretically, I suppose. The servo has both a 'slave' cylinder, driven 
by the M/C, which gates atmospheric air or engine vacuum to the large 
canister for braking assist or normal running, respectively, and a 
'master' cyl. that provides boosted pressure to the wheel cyls. courtesy 
of the air/vacuum pressure differential. A bad seal on the master cyl. 
in the servo /might /cause something similar, though I've not heard of 
this happening, so I can't say what the symptoms would be (though it 
would likely result in really poor braking and possibly a squishy 
pedal). Air in the system or an issue in the M/C is more likely. The 
most common failure of the servo I've seen or heard of is from the 
'gland' seal that seals the piston shaft from the vacuum/air cylinder; 
when it hardens, cracks or tears brake fluid will be sucked into the 
intake manifold and you'll have a new pope.

bs

On 5/21/2025 6:00 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
> Is it possible for the brake booster to produce these symptoms?
> Gary Hodson
>
> On Tuesday, May 20, 2025 at 11:08:52 PM CDT, Bob Spidell via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> I drove my BJ8 over 2,000 miles on a road trip with a similar problem, 
> though it was more consistent. On teardown of the M/C I found that the 
> seal on the 'foot valve' was damaged. This is a seal that closes the 
> feed line to the reservoir when brakes are applied. Simple test: Have 
> someone work the brakes as you closely watch the fluid level in the 
> reservoir; if it rises or ripples when brakes are applied that's your 
> problem.
>
> On 5/20/2025 1:20 PM, Richard Antal via Healeys wrote:
> Greetings Healeyphiles,
> ???? After a long winter's rest, I drove my BJ8 for the first time 
> this year and noticed immediately that I had to depress the brake 
> pedal far down before braking began, but if I pumped the pedal a few 
> times the brake pedal commenced functioning more promptly. This 
> improvement was fleeting but reproducible. The brake fluid reservoir 
> is topped off. What might be the cause and solution of this problem. 
> Thanks for all help.
> rich antal
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys 
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250521/030fb8ec/attachment.htm>

From alanwassermannc at gmail.com  Wed May 21 14:43:21 2025
From: alanwassermannc at gmail.com (Alan Wasserman)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2025 16:43:21 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 18, Issue 77
In-Reply-To: <mailman.4.1747850401.3203.healeys@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.4.1747850401.3203.healeys@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1ED863D0-C4B5-4FA8-8D44-A4F471F91F8C@gmail.com>

I have the exact same issue.  I bleed brakes.  All air out of system. Checked res when braking and no issue as suggested.  No leaks. Purchased and will install new master brake cylinder next week and will report back to team. 

Alan Wasserman
Alanwassermannc at gmail.com
732-887-0742
www.wassermanstudio.com

> On May 21, 2025, at 2:09?PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> ?Send Healeys mailing list submissions to
>    healeys at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    healeys-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    healeys-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Healeys digest..."
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Brake pedal problem (Richard Antal)
>   2. Re: Brake pedal problem (JSARCH)
>   3. Re: Brake pedal problem (Alan Seigrist)
>   4. Re: Brake pedal problem (Bob Spidell)
>   5. Re: Brake pedal problem (warthodson at aol.com)
>   6. Re: Brake pedal problem (Bob Spidell)
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> <mime-attachment>
> _______________________________________________
> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> 
> archives:  http://autox.team.net/archive
> 

From simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com  Thu May 22 02:38:12 2025
From: simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com (simon.lachlan at alexarevel.plus.com)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2025 08:38:12 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding  brakes.
Message-ID: <CWLP265MB1492F075F9F35DDC9E2BC058F399A@CWLP265MB1492.GBRP265.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

I am in the process of putting a rebuilt and hopefully cured wheel cylinder back onto my BT7. God, that's an awful job. Anyhow, I shall have to bleed the system when I've finally got those dear little clips to line up.
Recalling past battles in that area, I dug up a note which I'd made for myself some time back. I seem to recall that this paragraph is not in all of my BMC manuals so the advice within may not be available to all concerned. My car is a '62 so it's fair to assume that the relevant threads are a bit worn...........I use this method along with a Gunson's Eezibleed and it seems to work. I recall that the Eezibleed is much more effective and the process much more manageable if one has the donor tyre inflated to considerably less psi than advised in the destructions.
Apologies to all who recall my posting this previously!
?If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a considerable time, it is possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such cases tighten the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke* of the pedal and allow the pedal to return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last pedal application.? (+/- 2014)
*ie to prevent air being drawn in during the upward passage of the pedal. (SDL 14/08/2019)

Have fun. It's a beastly job but not as bad a s frigging around with the clips!!
Simon

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250522/11a8a871/attachment.htm>

From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Thu May 22 12:20:01 2025
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (JSARCH)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2025 11:20:01 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding  brakes.
In-Reply-To: <CWLP265MB1492F075F9F35DDC9E2BC058F399A@CWLP265MB1492.GBRP265.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
References: <CWLP265MB1492F075F9F35DDC9E2BC058F399A@CWLP265MB1492.GBRP265.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>
Message-ID: <006c01dbcb46$22c5a8d0$6850fa70$@sbcglobal.net>

Yes, air can be drawn in from the bleeder screw.

 

John,

'62 BT7

 

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of simon.lachlan---
via Healeys
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2025 1:38 AM
To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes.

 

I am in the process of putting a rebuilt and hopefully cured wheel cylinder
back onto my BT7. God, that's an awful job. Anyhow, I shall have to bleed
the system when I've finally got those dear little clips to line up. 

Recalling past battles in that area, I dug up a note which I'd made for
myself some time back. I seem to recall that this paragraph is not in all of
my BMC manuals so the advice within may not be available to all concerned.
My car is a '62 so it's fair to assume that the relevant threads are a bit
worn...........I use this method along with a Gunson's Eezibleed and it
seems to work. I recall that the Eezibleed is much more effective and the
process much more manageable if one has the donor tyre inflated to
considerably less psi than advised in the destructions.

Apologies to all who recall my posting this previously!

"If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
considerable time, it is possible that air is being drawn in past the
bleeder screw threads. In such cases tighten the bleeder screw at the end of
each downward stoke* of the pedal and allow the pedal to return fully before
re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last pedal
application." (+/- 2014)

*ie to prevent air being drawn in during the upward passage of the pedal.
(SDL 14/08/2019)

 

Have fun. It's a beastly job but not as bad a s frigging around with the
clips!!

Simon

 

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250522/ad5440b5/attachment.htm>

From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Thu May 22 13:14:07 2025
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2025 12:14:07 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auto movers
Message-ID: <CADkpZwEtRxhwKgxJgQM3YueYX802zHtEmdUJ9p4ordHp56pbMg@mail.gmail.com>

So a friend needs to move a car from LA to Detroit, and wonders who would
be a good choice. AFAIK it's drivable and doesn't need to be in an enclosed
carrier.

________________
Sent from my phone
Best Regards,
Al Fuller
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250522/436a59fe/attachment.htm>

From healeyrik at gmail.com  Thu May 22 15:25:10 2025
From: healeyrik at gmail.com (HealeyRick)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2025 17:25:10 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Auto movers
In-Reply-To: <CADkpZwEtRxhwKgxJgQM3YueYX802zHtEmdUJ9p4ordHp56pbMg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CADkpZwEtRxhwKgxJgQM3YueYX802zHtEmdUJ9p4ordHp56pbMg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAGfzsZfCUsqxrnRXodQoJPsPrdvvLOLroDt0Zt2neoTp=p2u8g@mail.gmail.com>

I was very pleased with these folks who hauled an '80s BMW from SFR to MA:
https://goldenkeyexpress.com/auto-transport/. It was about 5 years ago.
Since they haul their own loads and aren't a broker you're less likely to
have your car "disappear" along the way.

Rick Neville
aka "HealeyRick"

On Thu, May 22, 2025 at 3:41?PM Al Fuller via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> So a friend needs to move a car from LA to Detroit, and wonders who would
> be a good choice. AFAIK it's drivable and doesn't need to be in an enclosed
> carrier.
>
> ________________
> Sent from my phone
> Best Regards,
> Al Fuller
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeyrik at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250522/153e588f/attachment.htm>

From alfuller194 at gmail.com  Sat May 24 13:16:38 2025
From: alfuller194 at gmail.com (Al Fuller)
Date: Sat, 24 May 2025 12:16:38 -0700
Subject: [Healeys] Auto movers
Message-ID: <CADkpZwGz_4LZ63ATA9eYGX-=RT7uoY4-re7hjNz-D7B9UaB0nQ@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks all for the suggestions, I'll pass them on!



________________
Sent from my phone
Best Regards,
Al Fuller
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250524/f07873e9/attachment.htm>

From drberkowitz at hotmail.com  Tue May 27 11:58:47 2025
From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2025 17:58:47 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive repair
Message-ID: <BYAPR08MB42624ACC84E1B36452E405D8B864A@BYAPR08MB4262.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

Hi all. Does anyone have a place to get an overdrive rebuilt in the vicinity of Long Island NY.

Len Berkowitz
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250527/b7ee68aa/attachment.htm>

From britishauto at gmail.com  Tue May 27 13:39:59 2025
From: britishauto at gmail.com (Jake V)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2025 15:39:59 -0400
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive repair
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR08MB42624ACC84E1B36452E405D8B864A@BYAPR08MB4262.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BYAPR08MB42624ACC84E1B36452E405D8B864A@BYAPR08MB4262.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAACo9bCbU2UhGOWdzmqnF1ZWqQMRf6BUJ0yrH39DYsHnuHye3g@mail.gmail.com>

John Esposito

https://www.quantumechanics.com/

On Tue, May 27, 2025 at 2:15?PM Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Hi all. Does anyone have a place to get an overdrive rebuilt in the
> vicinity of Long Island NY.
>
> Len Berkowitz
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishauto at gmail.com
>
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250527/5c5562eb/attachment.htm>

From warthodson at aol.com  Tue May 27 16:13:52 2025
From: warthodson at aol.com (warthodson at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2025 22:13:52 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive repair
In-Reply-To: <BYAPR08MB42624ACC84E1B36452E405D8B864A@BYAPR08MB4262.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
References: <BYAPR08MB42624ACC84E1B36452E405D8B864A@BYAPR08MB4262.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <1419964653.1724564.1748384032043@mail.yahoo.com>

 Here is a link to a shop that rebuilds OD's.https://www.quantumechanics.com/
    On Tuesday, May 27, 2025 at 01:34:26 PM CDT, Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:   

  Hi all. Does anyone have a place to get an overdrive rebuilt in the vicinity of Long Island NY.?
Len Berkowitz?_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/warthodson at aol.com

  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20250527/25838f9c/attachment.htm>