From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  3 11:43:41 2025
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (JSARCH)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2025 15:43:41 -0300
Subject: [Healeys] Core plug query
In-Reply-To: <17b34936-d225-4a88-973e-3eb710291730@comcast.net>
References: <002801dc4a5f$0751eb70$15f5c250$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <17b34936-d225-4a88-973e-3eb710291730@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <018d01dc4cf1$caac21a0$600464e0$@sbcglobal.net>

More often than not, automatic fire sprinklers are activated by a glass bulb filed with a liquid that expands and breaks the bulb which then opens the fire sprinkler head. Bismuth is used in fusible links which that melt at certain temperatures to activate automatic fire doors.

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via Healeys
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2025 11:13 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Core plug query

 

I did a little diggin ... 

Apparently, they are designed to melt if the engine overheats, which would be grounds for voiding the warranty on a re-man. I wonder if the plug is made of bismuth, which is what sets off automatic fire sprinklers.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/mysterious-plugs-in-engine-block.1659464/

On 10/31/2025 5:08 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:

 I saw this on Facebook just now. Just curious?.what?s that thing in the middle of the core plug? And, if it?s a good thing, why don?t all the plugs have one? 

Thanks, Simon

 

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From engl at accesscomm.ca  Mon Nov  3 16:01:08 2025
From: engl at accesscomm.ca (engl at accesscomm.ca)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2025 17:01:08 -0600
Subject: [Healeys] Core plug query
In-Reply-To: <018d01dc4cf1$caac21a0$600464e0$@sbcglobal.net>
References: <002801dc4a5f$0751eb70$15f5c250$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <17b34936-d225-4a88-973e-3eb710291730@comcast.net>
 <018d01dc4cf1$caac21a0$600464e0$@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <001901dc4d15$be1c2600$3a547200$@accesscomm.ca>

JSARCH is correct for many types of modern sprinkler heads, but there are still several types that use one form or another of fusible links.  I apologize for being a pedant on this topic (sorry, it is what I do ? both being a pedant and design of automatic fire protection systems).

 

Mandatory Healey content : what is the advantage of draining the water from one?s cooling system if the engine is overheating?

 

Thanks.

 

Bob England



 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of JSARCH via Healeys
Sent: November 3, 2025 12:44 PM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; healeys at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Core plug query

 

More often than not, automatic fire sprinklers are activated by a glass bulb filed with a liquid that expands and breaks the bulb which then opens the fire sprinkler head. Bismuth is used in fusible links which that melt at certain temperatures to activate automatic fire doors.

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via Healeys
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2025 11:13 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Core plug query

 

I did a little diggin ... 

Apparently, they are designed to melt if the engine overheats, which would be grounds for voiding the warranty on a re-man. I wonder if the plug is made of bismuth, which is what sets off automatic fire sprinklers.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/mysterious-plugs-in-engine-block.1659464/

On 10/31/2025 5:08 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:

 I saw this on Facebook just now. Just curious?.what?s that thing in the middle of the core plug? And, if it?s a good thing, why don?t all the plugs have one? 

Thanks, Simon

 

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From jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov  4 08:19:33 2025
From: jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net (JSARCH)
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2025 12:19:33 -0300
Subject: [Healeys] Core plug query
In-Reply-To: <001901dc4d15$be1c2600$3a547200$@accesscomm.ca>
References: <002801dc4a5f$0751eb70$15f5c250$@alexarevel.plus.com>
 <17b34936-d225-4a88-973e-3eb710291730@comcast.net>
 <018d01dc4cf1$caac21a0$600464e0$@sbcglobal.net>
 <001901dc4d15$be1c2600$3a547200$@accesscomm.ca>
Message-ID: <006101dc4d9e$70272f60$50758e20$@sbcglobal.net>

Perhaps the thinking is draining the water will keep the system from being over pressurized and prevent hoses from rupturing?

 

John 

 

From: engl at accesscomm.ca <engl at accesscomm.ca> 
Sent: Monday, November 3, 2025 8:01 PM
To: healeys at autox.team.net
Cc: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net>; 'JSARCH' <jmsdarch at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Core plug query

 

JSARCH is correct for many types of modern sprinkler heads, but there are still several types that use one form or another of fusible links.  I apologize for being a pedant on this topic (sorry, it is what I do ? both being a pedant and design of automatic fire protection systems).

 

Mandatory Healey content : what is the advantage of draining the water from one?s cooling system if the engine is overheating?

 

Thanks.

 

Bob England

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of JSARCH via Healeys
Sent: November 3, 2025 12:44 PM
To: 'Bob Spidell' <bspidell at comcast.net <mailto:bspidell at comcast.net> >; healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Core plug query

 

More often than not, automatic fire sprinklers are activated by a glass bulb filed with a liquid that expands and breaks the bulb which then opens the fire sprinkler head. Bismuth is used in fusible links which that melt at certain temperatures to activate automatic fire doors.

 

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> > On Behalf Of Bob Spidell via Healeys
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2025 11:13 AM
To: healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Core plug query

 

I did a little diggin ... 

Apparently, they are designed to melt if the engine overheats, which would be grounds for voiding the warranty on a re-man. I wonder if the plug is made of bismuth, which is what sets off automatic fire sprinklers.

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/mysterious-plugs-in-engine-block.1659464/

On 10/31/2025 5:08 AM, Simon Lachlan via Healeys wrote:

 I saw this on Facebook just now. Just curious?.what?s that thing in the middle of the core plug? And, if it?s a good thing, why don?t all the plugs have one? 

Thanks, Simon

 

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From michael.salter at gmail.com  Wed Nov  5 13:18:16 2025
From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2025 20:18:16 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap
Message-ID: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

After struggling for months, off and on, to eliminate a persistent very slow drip, drip of coolant (yes I tried to lap it in many times) I finally came up with a solution!!
Usually easier to remove the entire tap than risk breaking the handle off (again) trying  to get it open.
M


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From bspidell at comcast.net  Wed Nov  5 23:12:12 2025
From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell)
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2025 22:12:12 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap
In-Reply-To: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <4e1627f7-0d5f-4064-8225-eaf14f623d76@comcast.net>

Took me a while ;)


On 11/5/2025 12:18 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
> After struggling for months, off and on, to eliminate a persistent 
> very slow drip, drip of coolant (yes I tried to lap it in many times) 
> I finally came up with a solution!!
> Usually easier to remove the entire tap than risk breaking the handle 
> off (again) trying? to get it open.
> M
>
>
>
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From manifold at telus.net  Thu Nov  6 09:28:20 2025
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2025 08:28:20 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap
In-Reply-To: <4e1627f7-0d5f-4064-8225-eaf14f623d76@comcast.net>
References: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <4e1627f7-0d5f-4064-8225-eaf14f623d76@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCAtxiVKCXiewpuSny3wKWZ2ezCwui7HD280SKbRV=f-Fw@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Michael,

Your solution is ingenious and concours correct.

I have a slightly different issue with my radiator drain tap. I need to
drain the radiator, but the lever is stuck in the horizontal, closed
position. I want to avoid breaking the lever, but it's interfering with
unscrewing the cap. I'm trying to avoid moving the radiator altogether.
I've heard that tapping the shaft on the opposite side of the handle might
free up the mechanism.

Do you agree with this approach?

Thanks,
Harold

On Wed, Nov 5, 2025 at 10:42?PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <
healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:

> Took me a while ;)
>
>
> On 11/5/2025 12:18 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> After struggling for months, off and on, to eliminate a persistent very
> slow drip, drip of coolant (yes I tried to lap it in many times) I finally
> came up with a solution!!
> Usually easier to remove the entire tap than risk breaking the handle off
> (again) trying  to get it open.
> M
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
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From michael.salter at gmail.com  Thu Nov  6 11:38:02 2025
From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2025 18:38:02 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCAtxiVKCXiewpuSny3wKWZ2ezCwui7HD280SKbRV=f-Fw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <4e1627f7-0d5f-4064-8225-eaf14f623d76@comcast.net>
 <CAFP1XCAtxiVKCXiewpuSny3wKWZ2ezCwui7HD280SKbRV=f-Fw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SN7PR22MB37648AD5E22AED8317EE5A81A1C2A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Harold, it's odd that the tap that you are talking about is open with the handle in line. I've only ever found that originals are open when the handle is at right angles which, I admit,  defies logic!!
Might be worth poking something through yours to see if there's just some obstruction.
Yes, tapping on the end of the shaft opposite the handle can work but you have to be VERY gentle as it's easy to crush the end of the shaft which is quite thin and has the hole for the split (cotter) pin.
An interesting note, the handle, which is threaded into the ball end of the shaft, is the only place on a Healey which uses a 12 ? 32 tpi thread.
Good luck.

M



________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 6, 2025 11:28:20 AM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap

Hi Michael,

Your solution is ingenious and concours correct.

I have a slightly different issue with my radiator drain tap. I need to drain the radiator, but the lever is stuck in the horizontal, closed position. I want to avoid breaking the lever, but it's interfering with unscrewing the cap. I'm trying to avoid moving the radiator altogether. I've heard that tapping the shaft on the opposite side of the handle might free up the mechanism.

Do you agree with this approach?

Thanks,
Harold

On Wed, Nov 5, 2025 at 10:42?PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>> wrote:
Took me a while ;)


On 11/5/2025 12:18 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
After struggling for months, off and on, to eliminate a persistent very slow drip, drip of coolant (yes I tried to lap it in many times) I finally came up with a solution!!
Usually easier to remove the entire tap than risk breaking the handle off (again) trying  to get it open.
M



_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

Healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:Healeys at autox.team.net>
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net

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From healeydoc at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov  6 12:33:41 2025
From: healeydoc at sbcglobal.net (David Nock)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2025 11:33:41 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCAtxiVKCXiewpuSny3wKWZ2ezCwui7HD280SKbRV=f-Fw@mail.gmail.com>
References: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <4e1627f7-0d5f-4064-8225-eaf14f623d76@comcast.net>
 <CAFP1XCAtxiVKCXiewpuSny3wKWZ2ezCwui7HD280SKbRV=f-Fw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7e526932-485b-4442-89b7-d3b1e47d4ff9@sbcglobal.net>

Yes you can TAP LIGHTLY on the opposite side where the spring is LIGHTLY 
and you will free up the taper in the tap.

-- 

David Nock
British Car Specialists
Stockton Ca
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com



On 11/6/2025 8:28 AM, Harold Manifold wrote:
> Hi Michael,
>
> Your solution is ingenious and concours correct.
>
> I have a slightly different issue with my radiator drain tap. I need 
> to drain the radiator, but the lever is stuck in the horizontal, 
> closed position. I want to avoid breaking the lever, but it's 
> interfering with unscrewing the cap. I'm trying to avoid moving the 
> radiator altogether. I've heard that tapping the shaft on the opposite 
> side of the handle might free up the mechanism.
>
> Do you agree with this approach?
>
> Thanks,
> Harold
>
> On Wed, Nov 5, 2025 at 10:42?PM Bob Spidell via Healeys 
> <healeys at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>     Took me a while ;)
>
>
>     On 11/5/2025 12:18 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>>     After struggling for months, off and on, to eliminate a
>>     persistent very slow drip, drip of coolant (yes I tried to lap it
>>     in many times) I finally came up with a solution!!
>>     Usually easier to remove the entire tap than risk breaking the
>>     handle off (again) trying? to get it open.
>>     M
>>
>>
>>
>     _______________________________________________
>     Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>     http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
>     Healeys at autox.team.net
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>     Unsubscribe/Manage:
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healeydoc at sbcglobal.net
>
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From healey.nut at gmail.com  Thu Nov  6 12:36:13 2025
From: healey.nut at gmail.com (Alan Seigrist)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2025 14:36:13 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] Block/radiator drain tap
In-Reply-To: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <SN7PR22MB37643510ED29B391A4ACD0A1A1C5A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAFBXTkJ7kGafr5_MrL4zdaqs258ZurRbWZ+xTTzguxFCaUdMCQ@mail.gmail.com>

5 years from now you'll be asking yourself, why isn't anything coming out
of this tap?

On Wed, Nov 5, 2025 at 8:03?PM Michael Salter <michael.salter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> After struggling for months, off and on, to eliminate a persistent very
> slow drip, drip of coolant (yes I tried to lap it in many times) I finally
> came up with a solution!!
> Usually easier to remove the entire tap than risk breaking the handle off
> (again) trying  to get it open.
> M
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/healey.nut at gmail.com
>
>
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From dwernervt at gmail.com  Fri Nov 14 10:20:11 2025
From: dwernervt at gmail.com (dwernervt at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2025 12:20:11 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 calipers after 27605. (Late)
Message-ID: <C003960A-9716-4CB9-9E2D-90C87F32FFAE@gmail.com>

Looking to verify that this is an original caliper as I need to order the correct repair kit and SS pistons.
Thanks!
Dan Werner 

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Sent from my iPad

From michael.salter at gmail.com  Fri Nov 14 11:38:18 2025
From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2025 18:38:18 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 calipers after 27605. (Late)
In-Reply-To: <C003960A-9716-4CB9-9E2D-90C87F32FFAE@gmail.com>
References: <C003960A-9716-4CB9-9E2D-90C87F32FFAE@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <SN7PR22MB37643BEA1FB8A1E168BA3C47A1CAA@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Yes, certainly looks like a Girling 16 as fitted to later BJ8s.

M


________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of dwernervt at gmail.com <dwernervt at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2025 12:20:11 PM
To: Ahealey help <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 calipers after 27605. (Late)

Looking to verify that this is an original caliper as I need to order the correct repair kit and SS pistons.
Thanks!
Dan Werner

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From britishauto at gmail.com  Fri Nov 14 12:56:20 2025
From: britishauto at gmail.com (Jake V)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2025 14:56:20 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 calipers after 27605. (Late)
In-Reply-To: <C003960A-9716-4CB9-9E2D-90C87F32FFAE@gmail.com>
References: <C003960A-9716-4CB9-9E2D-90C87F32FFAE@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAACo9bBkJHS8niM_nz=JJoSXZFgVN58tT8gpVOS02DMwo3k=0g@mail.gmail.com>

Type 16P is correct, that's what you're showing. You'll want to get the
seal between the halves as well, it's not included in the rebuild kit.
Bolt torque recommendations are 75ft-lb for the ?7/16 pair and 45ft-lb for
the ?3/8 pair.
Caveat: Those torque numbers aren't available from the manual, some TR6s
used the same 16P calipers. I found a thread with that info from TRF tech
assistance.

https://mossmotors.com/583-820-seal-between-caliper-halves?qty=1

On Fri, Nov 14, 2025 at 12:36?PM <dwernervt at gmail.com> wrote:

> Looking to verify that this is an original caliper as I need to order the
> correct repair kit and SS pistons.
> Thanks!
> Dan Werner
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad_______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From boyracer466 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 14 15:20:40 2025
From: boyracer466 at gmail.com (Richard Mayor)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2025 14:20:40 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 calipers after 27605. (Late)
In-Reply-To: <CAACo9bBkJHS8niM_nz=JJoSXZFgVN58tT8gpVOS02DMwo3k=0g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAACo9bBkJHS8niM_nz=JJoSXZFgVN58tT8gpVOS02DMwo3k=0g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A0611D0D-2622-4C7B-9F96-E62BFFC39B32@gmail.com>

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From britishauto at gmail.com  Fri Nov 14 15:35:57 2025
From: britishauto at gmail.com (Jake V)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2025 17:35:57 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 calipers after 27605. (Late)
In-Reply-To: <A0611D0D-2622-4C7B-9F96-E62BFFC39B32@gmail.com>
References: <CAACo9bBkJHS8niM_nz=JJoSXZFgVN58tT8gpVOS02DMwo3k=0g@mail.gmail.com>
 <A0611D0D-2622-4C7B-9F96-E62BFFC39B32@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAACo9bANpYcvAxGVHoqioF9CgueKjEsqTV8zKq38eB+gVTk2mQ@mail.gmail.com>

Depends on the preload you want on the tension bolts that hold the caliper
halves together.
Definitely do your own research if you're planning to split the calipers.
It's not that hard to estimate the system pressure.

On Fri, Nov 14, 2025, 5:20 PM Richard Mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Those numbers seem like overkill.  There are charts that have the
> appropriate torque for the various size fasteners.  I would consult one of
> those charts.
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Nov 14, 2025, at 12:32?PM, Jake V <britishauto at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> ?
> Type 16P is correct, that's what you're showing. You'll want to get the
> seal between the halves as well, it's not included in the rebuild kit.
> Bolt torque recommendations are 75ft-lb for the ?7/16 pair and 45ft-lb for
> the ?3/8 pair.
> Caveat: Those torque numbers aren't available from the manual, some TR6s
> used the same 16P calipers. I found a thread with that info from TRF tech
> assistance.
>
> https://mossmotors.com/583-820-seal-between-caliper-halves?qty=1
>
> On Fri, Nov 14, 2025 at 12:36?PM <dwernervt at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Looking to verify that this is an original caliper as I need to order the
>> correct repair kit and SS pistons.
>> Thanks!
>> Dan Werner
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad_______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>
>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishauto at gmail.com
>>
>> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
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From dwernervt at gmail.com  Fri Nov 14 16:51:22 2025
From: dwernervt at gmail.com (dwernervt at gmail.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2025 18:51:22 -0500
Subject: [Healeys] BJ8 calipers after 27605. (Late)
In-Reply-To: <CAACo9bANpYcvAxGVHoqioF9CgueKjEsqTV8zKq38eB+gVTk2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAACo9bANpYcvAxGVHoqioF9CgueKjEsqTV8zKq38eB+gVTk2mQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2B8DF2BF-62C6-4FCC-8833-8C4E2A96A5B3@gmail.com>

So here?s the big picture? I?ve had this ticka ticka ticka noise coming from the right side of the car, hard to hear it at highway speed, but 45 mph and below it?s there. Easy to hear when reflected off a railing or wall. A slight pressure on the brake pedal stops it. So I figure it's the brake pad jumping up and down. Brake pads are within spec. Both rotors were way too thin. Replaced them but still have the ticka ticka. I will put new pads on.
Also ?found? the disappearing brake fluid (only after a drive) was due to the brake booster. So now that?s off the car. The calipers are aftermarket, unknown age by previous owner. Heck, might as well rebuild those since I?ll have to bleed anyway.
So I have these original calipers on an inside storage parts car. Well, one is off with one piston loose so far. I was thinking of using those original calipers, if I can get all the pistons out. If so, should I separate the calipers to replace that seal or leave it alone?
Dan

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 14, 2025, at 5:36 PM, Jake V <britishauto at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?
> Depends on the preload you want on the tension bolts that hold the caliper halves together. 
> Definitely do your own research if you're planning to split the calipers. It's not that hard to estimate the system pressure.
> 
>> On Fri, Nov 14, 2025, 5:20 PM Richard Mayor <boyracer466 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Those numbers seem like overkill.  There are charts that have the appropriate torque for the various size fasteners.  I would consult one of those charts.
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>>> On Nov 14, 2025, at 12:32?PM, Jake V <britishauto at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> 
>>> ?
>>> Type 16P is correct, that's what you're showing. You'll want to get the seal between the halves as well, it's not included in the rebuild kit. 
>>> Bolt torque recommendations are 75ft-lb for the ?7/16 pair and 45ft-lb for the ?3/8 pair. 
>>> Caveat: Those torque numbers aren't available from the manual, some TR6s used the same 16P calipers. I found a thread with that info from TRF tech assistance.
>>> 
>>> https://mossmotors.com/583-820-seal-between-caliper-halves?qty=1
>>> 
>>>> On Fri, Nov 14, 2025 at 12:36?PM <dwernervt at gmail.com> wrote:
>>>> Looking to verify that this is an original caliper as I need to order the correct repair kit and SS pistons.
>>>> Thanks!
>>>> Dan Werner 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPad_______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> 
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>>> 
>>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britishauto at gmail.com
>>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>>> 
>>> Healeys at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/boyracer466 at gmail.com
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From drberkowitz at hotmail.com  Sat Nov 15 10:49:07 2025
From: drberkowitz at hotmail.com (Leonard Berkowitz)
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2025 17:49:07 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Overdrive
Message-ID: <BYAPR08MB426246B02AFFF233FA823673B8CBA@BYAPR08MB4262.namprd08.prod.outlook.com>

Hi all.

A few months ago I posted a request for assistance on removing my overdrive and installing a new one. Many advised me to not do it or to remove the entire transmission first.  Me being the stubborm guy I am I didn't take that advice. I am happy to say that with a little thought and a ton of effort the job is done.  Of course being a British car with Lucas electrics I had other problems after I installed the new overdrive.  It would work fine and then stop working and then start working again.  The problem turned out to be a faulty overdrive relay.  In the end the only part of the system I didn't change was the dashboard (fascia) and the gear shift lever switches. If anyone out there decides to switch out their overdrive feel free to consult with me. (DrBerkowitz at hotmail.com) It really wasn't such a nightmare.  The trick was to raise the rear of the transmission in order to clear the under side mounts and then to lower it back down to clear the output shaft form the tranny.  Just make sure you remove the throttle shaft from the firewall (Scuttle) before you start raising and lowering the engine. The other problem was the new throttle switch couild not be adjusted to open until half throttle instead of 20% throttle. Easy fix was to bend the shaft that actuates the switch.
Although my old overdrive functioned it hasn't functioned properly for about 20 years. The new one ( a rebuilt unit from Quantumechanics) operates like new.  What a pleasure.
Len Berkowitz
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From airtightproductions at me.com  Sat Nov 15 13:33:19 2025
From: airtightproductions at me.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2025 20:33:19 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite question for my neighbor
Message-ID: <93f1c2fc-f86e-42fb-996b-5c68af9abad1@me.com>

My neighbor bought a bugeye that had a 1275 engine put in it. It runs well, but blows oil like crazy out of the oil cap on the valve cover. It does not have a timing cover ventilation valve, but a fitting was made to fit onto where the old fuel pump fit on the side of the crankcase/block. When he hooked the hose from that fitting to the carbs, oil was no longer being blown out, but oil was then being sucked into the carbs and he was burning oil like crazy. It seems the pressure in the crankcase is so great it is pushing oil up the push rods into the rocker assembly, out the filler cap and all over the engine. I'm not familiar with the 1275 and have no ideas on how to vent the pressure in the crankcase. Can anyone of you guys point me to a possible solution? Thanks in advance for the advice. Steven Kingsbury BN1
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From michael.salter at gmail.com  Sat Nov 15 14:03:52 2025
From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2025 21:03:52 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite question for my neighbor
In-Reply-To: <93f1c2fc-f86e-42fb-996b-5c68af9abad1@me.com>
References: <93f1c2fc-f86e-42fb-996b-5c68af9abad1@me.com>
Message-ID: <SN7PR22MB37649D06F3DF3A7DDB73A275A1CBA@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

Hi Steve, what you describe sounds to me like excessive blow-by.
I would recommend a compression test before going too much further.

M


________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2025 3:33:19 PM
To: Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite question for my neighbor

My neighbor bought a bugeye that had a 1275 engine put in it. It runs well, but blows oil like crazy out of the oil cap on the valve cover. It does not have a timing cover ventilation valve, but a fitting was made to fit onto where the old fuel pump fit on the side of the crankcase/block. When he hooked the hose from that fitting to the carbs, oil was no longer being blown out, but oil was then being sucked into the carbs and he was burning oil like crazy.

It seems the pressure in the crankcase is so great it is pushing oil up the push rods into the rocker assembly, out the filler cap and all over the engine. I'm not familiar with the 1275 and have no ideas on how to vent the pressure in the crankcase. Can anyone of you guys point me to a possible solution? Thanks in advance for the advice.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1
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From manifold at telus.net  Sun Nov 16 09:37:34 2025
From: manifold at telus.net (Harold Manifold)
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2025 08:37:34 -0800
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite question for my neighbor
In-Reply-To: <SN7PR22MB37649D06F3DF3A7DDB73A275A1CBA@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
References: <93f1c2fc-f86e-42fb-996b-5c68af9abad1@me.com>
 <SN7PR22MB37649D06F3DF3A7DDB73A275A1CBA@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
Message-ID: <CAFP1XCD1cmCsQjiJi6uzpuhT-nJOAoHeekY8eq8ED+vH3_0o0Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hi Steve,

The issue you described with your neighbor's 1275 engine may be related to
a similar problem I've encountered.

I know of a recently rebuilt engine that experienced comparable excessive
oil blow-by. The cause, in that case, was a poorly refurbished and refitted
rocker shaft and bushings. Without adequate restriction between the rocker
shaft and the bushings to regulate the oil flow, it resulted in an
excessive amount of oil being pumped to the top of the engine.

I hope this provides another avenue for investigation.

Regards,
Harold

On Sat, Nov 15, 2025 at 1:12?PM Michael Salter <michael.salter at gmail.com>
wrote:

> Hi Steve, what you describe sounds to me like excessive blow-by.
> I would recommend a compression test before going too much further.
>
> M
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> on behalf of Steven
> Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 15, 2025 3:33:19 PM
> *To:* Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Sprite question for my neighbor
>
> My neighbor bought a bugeye that had a 1275 engine put in it. It runs
> well, but blows oil like crazy out of the oil cap on the valve cover. It
> does not have a timing cover ventilation valve, but a fitting was made to
> fit onto where the old fuel pump fit on the side of the crankcase/block.
> When he hooked the hose from that fitting to the carbs, oil was no longer
> being blown out, but oil was then being sucked into the carbs and he was
> burning oil like crazy.
>
> It seems the pressure in the crankcase is so great it is pushing oil up
> the push rods into the rocker assembly, out the filler cap and all over the
> engine. I'm not familiar with the 1275 and have no ideas on how to vent the
> pressure in the crankcase. Can anyone of you guys point me to a possible
> solution? Thanks in advance for the advice.
> Steven Kingsbury
> BN1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
> http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net
>
>
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From airtightproductions at me.com  Sun Nov 16 12:24:30 2025
From: airtightproductions at me.com (Steven Kingsbury)
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2025 19:24:30 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite question for my neighbor
In-Reply-To: <CAFP1XCD1cmCsQjiJi6uzpuhT-nJOAoHeekY8eq8ED+vH3_0o0Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <93f1c2fc-f86e-42fb-996b-5c68af9abad1@me.com>
 <SN7PR22MB37649D06F3DF3A7DDB73A275A1CBA@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFP1XCD1cmCsQjiJi6uzpuhT-nJOAoHeekY8eq8ED+vH3_0o0Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2574d412-e0f3-4d8e-850f-a75b4a902c0a@me.com>

The engine was a fresh rebuild when bought. The car was sold because of the excessive oil blowing out after the fresh rebuild. The head was taken off and examined at a local machine shop and passed with flying colors. The pistons and rings were also taken to the shop where the machinist remarked that the rings might have been too small and suggested 10 over rings. New rings went on, everything put back into the engine and again, it runs great, just blows the oil all over the place! Michael, compression test today after a bit over 100 miles with the new rings: 160, 148, 120, 130. Saw some suggestions on an MG forum for fixing crankcase ventilation. Will see what my neighbor decides to do and will update later. Thanks all for the words. And just now, after driving the car another forty miles or so, the compression now sits at: 165, 155, 130, 150. So that's getting better. Will definitely take a closer look at the rocker shaft and bushings. Again, thanks to all for the possible foibles facing this engine. Steven On Nov 16, 2025, at 8:52 AM, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote: Hi Steve, The issue you described with your neighbor's 1275 engine may be related to a similar problem I've encountered. I know of a recently rebuilt engine that experienced comparable excessive oil blow-by. The cause, in that case, was a poorly refurbished and refitted rocker shaft and bushings. Without adequate restriction between the rocker shaft and the bushings to regulate the oil flow, it resulted in an excessive amount of oil being pumped to the top of the engine. I hope this provides another avenue for investigation. Regards, Harold On Sat, Nov 15, 2025 at 1:12 PM Michael Salter < michael.salter at gmail.com > wrote: Hi Steve, what you describe sounds to me like excessive blow-by. I would recommend a compression test before going too much further. M From: Healeys < healeys-bounces at autox.team.net > on behalf of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys < healeys at autox.team.net > Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2025 3:33:19 PM To: Healey Mail List < healeys at autox.team.net > Subject: [Healeys] Sprite question for my neighbor My neighbor bought a bugeye that had a 1275 engine put in it. It runs well, but blows oil like crazy out of the oil cap on the valve cover. It does not have a timing cover ventilation valve, but a fitting was made to fit onto where the old fuel pump fit on the side of the crankcase/block. When he hooked the hose from that fitting to the carbs, oil was no longer being blown out, but oil was then being sucked into the carbs and he was burning oil like crazy. It seems the pressure in the crankcase is so great it is pushing oil up the push rods into the rocker assembly, out the filler cap and all over the engine. I'm not familiar with the 1275 and have no ideas on how to vent the pressure in the crankcase. Can anyone of you guys point me to a possible solution? Thanks in advance for the advice. Steven Kingsbury BN1 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/manifold at telus.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys Healeys at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions at icloud.com
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From michael.salter at gmail.com  Sun Nov 16 14:14:15 2025
From: michael.salter at gmail.com (Michael Salter)
Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2025 21:14:15 +0000
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite question for my neighbor
In-Reply-To: <2574d412-e0f3-4d8e-850f-a75b4a902c0a@me.com>
References: <93f1c2fc-f86e-42fb-996b-5c68af9abad1@me.com>
 <SN7PR22MB37649D06F3DF3A7DDB73A275A1CBA@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>
 <CAFP1XCD1cmCsQjiJi6uzpuhT-nJOAoHeekY8eq8ED+vH3_0o0Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <2574d412-e0f3-4d8e-850f-a75b4a902c0a@me.com>
Message-ID: <SN7PR22MB3764F8C38BFC4C1ED2273077A1C8A@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com>

In my experience Steven, that's not how it works with piston rings.
Rings are specific to a particular bore size. If the bore is say 0.010" oversize then 0.010" oversize rings are what must be fitted.
Installing an oversize of ring without accurately measuring the bore and checking that the pistons and rings are correct for  that bore just won't work.

M


________________________________
From: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions at me.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2025 2:24:30 PM
To: Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net>
Cc: Michael Salter <michael.salter at gmail.com>; Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sprite question for my neighbor


The engine was a fresh rebuild when bought. The car was sold because of the excessive oil blowing out after the fresh rebuild. The head was taken off and examined at a local machine shop and passed with flying colors. The pistons and rings were also taken to the shop where the machinist remarked that the rings might have been too small and suggested 10 over rings. New rings went on, everything put back into the engine and again, it runs great, just blows the oil all over the place!
Michael, compression test today after a bit over 100 miles with the new rings: 160, 148, 120, 130. Saw some suggestions on an MG forum for fixing crankcase ventilation. Will see what my neighbor decides to do and will update later. Thanks all for the words.
And just now, after driving the car another forty miles or so, the compression now sits at: 165, 155, 130, 150. So that's getting better. Will definitely take a closer look at the rocker shaft and bushings. Again, thanks to all for the possible foibles facing this engine.
Steven

On Nov 16, 2025, at 8:52 AM, Harold Manifold <manifold at telus.net> wrote:


Hi Steve,

The issue you described with your neighbor's 1275 engine may be related to a similar problem I've encountered.

I know of a recently rebuilt engine that experienced comparable excessive oil blow-by. The cause, in that case, was a poorly refurbished and refitted rocker shaft and bushings. Without adequate restriction between the rocker shaft and the bushings to regulate the oil flow, it resulted in an excessive amount of oil being pumped to the top of the engine.

I hope this provides another avenue for investigation.

Regards,
Harold

On Sat, Nov 15, 2025 at 1:12?PM Michael Salter <michael.salter at gmail.com<mailto:michael.salter at gmail.com>> wrote:
Hi Steve, what you describe sounds to me like excessive blow-by.
I would recommend a compression test before going too much further.

M


________________________________

From: Healeys <healeys-bounces at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>> on behalf of Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Sent: Saturday, November 15, 2025 3:33:19 PM
To: Healey Mail List <healeys at autox.team.net<mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>>
Subject: [Healeys] Sprite question for my neighbor

My neighbor bought a bugeye that had a 1275 engine put in it. It runs well, but blows oil like crazy out of the oil cap on the valve cover. It does not have a timing cover ventilation valve, but a fitting was made to fit onto where the old fuel pump fit on the side of the crankcase/block. When he hooked the hose from that fitting to the carbs, oil was no longer being blown out, but oil was then being sucked into the carbs and he was burning oil like crazy.

It seems the pressure in the crankcase is so great it is pushing oil up the push rods into the rocker assembly, out the filler cap and all over the engine. I'm not familiar with the 1275 and have no ideas on how to vent the pressure in the crankcase. Can anyone of you guys point me to a possible solution? Thanks in advance for the advice.
Steven Kingsbury
BN1
_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys

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