From mvheim at sonic.net Sat Jun 1 19:17:08 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Sat, 1 Jun 2019 18:17:08 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Something (or things) leaks - how to locate the source? In-Reply-To: References: <3fdba8de-051c-94cd-f92f-14e491d5d5f9@shoyer.com> <6C70D3B4-86F8-47C9-AA48-AD76CFD1E294@sonic.net> Message-ID: <6C8F8356-7CD7-4092-B4AF-E35B768DBD9A@sonic.net> On Jun 1, 2019, at 4:21 PM, Robert's New iPad wrote: Max, Sticking some ideas into your list, in hopes that it gets to the fellow who initiated the thread. Bob On May 31, 2019, at 1:24 PM, Max Heim via Mgs > wrote: > Not familiar with all the external plumbing on a 1980, but here are some known sources of leakage, based on a 18GB engine: > > OIL > Rocker cover (extremely common) Tighten only gently. More than that bends the cover. > Side cover plates (very common) Accessible from underneath better than from above, though both difficult. 7/16 flat ratchet works, and 1/4? drive sockets work better than 3/8? > Oil filter Hand-tighten. If that doesn?t work, replace the filter. > Oil filter inverter base/oil cooler hose end fitting The bolt that holds on the base for the filter can loosen. A lot of oil blows out here. Accessible from underneath, though awkward. > Oil pressure hose fitting This may be metric, as well as awkward to access > Engine rear seal (oil draining from the hole in the bottom of the bell housing) Be sure the cotter pin is freer to jiggle in the bell housing hole. Pin is there to keep the hole open so that leaked oil can drain before trashing the clutch. > Engine front seal Can be replaced with engine in the car. Radiator must come out. > Oil pan gasket Gently !! On these little bolts. As Paul said, over tightening these distorts the oil pan, making the leak worse, not better. If you end up removing the pan, dimple the holes back the other way with ball-pein hammer to get the surface flat again. > > COOLANT > Lower radiator hose (common) Rad connection comes up at an odd angle. I use a 1/4? long extension with screwdriver handle to tighten the clamp. > Upper radiator hose > Heater hoses Got wet feet or smell antifreeze? If it?s not the hoses, the heater core may be leaking. > Thermostat housing > Water pump gasket > Water pump shaft seal Water pumps are cheap enough, but there are different pumps for different engines, fans and air pumps. > Heater valve This is a safety feature that generally shorts out the distributor before engine overheats from lack of coolant. John Twist has a tip about setting the Bowden cable so that valve is just closed, not jammed closed, when the knob clicks off. > > It is very hard to trace many of these unless the surfaces are clean and dry to start with. Putting clean cardboard or paper under the car while parked may help you find a starting place for investigation. > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Sun Jun 2 15:22:04 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Sun, 2 Jun 2019 14:22:04 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Something (or things) leaks - how to locate the source? In-Reply-To: <4B5A81EF-28C7-45F4-8678-51EC24A692F6@verizon.net> References: <3fdba8de-051c-94cd-f92f-14e491d5d5f9@shoyer.com> <6C70D3B4-86F8-47C9-AA48-AD76CFD1E294@sonic.net> <6C8F8356-7CD7-4092-B4AF-E35B768DBD9A@sonic.net> <4B5A81EF-28C7-45F4-8678-51EC24A692F6@verizon.net> Message-ID: Remember, you need to ?reply to all? to send a message to the list. If you just hit ?reply?, it only goes to a single person ? whoever sent the particular comment you are replying to. I have received 2 comments on this thread that went directly to me, and I wasn?t even the person with the question. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jun 2, 2019, at 4:21 AM, John Marcell wrote: > > I have used dye to determine the point of the leak > > Phil > > Sent from my iPad > > On Jun 1, 2019, at 8:17 PM, Max Heim via Mgs > wrote: > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From barrob at bell.net Mon Jun 3 11:49:35 2019 From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 13:49:35 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Splach panel for sale Message-ID: <6256c3a8-0b9a-9274-5b7d-82d6ced37b38@bell.net> Hello folks, Tying to clear the garage.?? I have an MGB splash panel 458-390 powder coated black - never used.?? Going for US$15 plus postage.?? Current Moss price $24.? Ship from Canada Cheers -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schultejim at msn.com Mon Jun 3 14:03:12 2019 From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 20:03:12 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid Message-ID: Looking for suggestions on tranny fluid for automatic T 35 Borg Warner. Don't say 20w50 oil cause autos are different. What is the recommended fluid in the US. and how much will the tranny take in quarts? Thanks for your time and consideration. Jim Harleysville, PA Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Mon Jun 3 14:17:10 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 16:17:10 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jim, why would you not use ATF? I've seen recommendations for Type F. Not sure whether that is still available or not. Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:03 PM James Schulte via Mgs wrote: > Looking for suggestions on tranny fluid for automatic T 35 Borg Warner. > Don't say 20w50 oil cause autos are different. What is the recommended > fluid in the US. and how much will the tranny take in quarts? > Thanks for your time and consideration. > Jim > Harleysville, PA > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schultejim at msn.com Mon Jun 3 14:23:35 2019 From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 20:23:35 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Dan, Is ATF what you are suggesting? Jim Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Dan DiBiase Date: 6/3/19 4:17 PM (GMT-05:00) To: James Schulte Cc: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid Jim, why would you not use ATF? I've seen recommendations for Type F. Not sure whether that is still available or not. Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:03 PM James Schulte via Mgs > wrote: Looking for suggestions on tranny fluid for automatic T 35 Borg Warner. Don't say 20w50 oil cause autos are different. What is the recommended fluid in the US. and how much will the tranny take in quarts? Thanks for your time and consideration. Jim Harleysville, PA Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From craigbrownlee at cox.net Mon Jun 3 14:34:33 2019 From: craigbrownlee at cox.net (Craig Brownlee) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 15:34:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don?t have any experience with the T35 but did find this on the MGExperience website. Might be useful for you. https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgc-forum.48/automatic-transmission-fluid-type.2578491/ Craig Craig Brownlee, PE LLC 918-728-5950 craigbrownlee at cox.net > On Jun 3, 2019, at 3:03 PM, James Schulte via Mgs wrote: > > Looking for suggestions on tranny fluid for automatic T 35 Borg Warner. Don't say 20w50 oil cause autos are different. What is the recommended fluid in the US. and how much will the tranny take in quarts? > Thanks for your time and consideration. > Jim > Harleysville, PA > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/craigbrownlee at cox.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Mon Jun 3 14:51:44 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 16:51:44 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I guess my question is, why WOULDN'T you use ATF? Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:23 PM James Schulte wrote: > Dan, > Is ATF what you are suggesting? > Jim > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Dan DiBiase > Date: 6/3/19 4:17 PM (GMT-05:00) > To: James Schulte > Cc: MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid > > Jim, why would you not use ATF? I've seen recommendations for Type F. Not > sure whether that is still available or not. > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > > > > On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:03 PM James Schulte via Mgs > wrote: > >> Looking for suggestions on tranny fluid for automatic T 35 Borg Warner. >> Don't say 20w50 oil cause autos are different. What is the recommended >> fluid in the US. and how much will the tranny take in quarts? >> Thanks for your time and consideration. >> Jim >> Harleysville, PA >> >> >> >> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs >> >> http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com >> >> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From steve at shoyer.com Mon Jun 3 15:13:20 2019 From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 17:13:20 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Something (or things) leaks - how to locate the source? In-Reply-To: References: <3fdba8de-051c-94cd-f92f-14e491d5d5f9@shoyer.com> <6C70D3B4-86F8-47C9-AA48-AD76CFD1E294@sonic.net> <6C8F8356-7CD7-4092-B4AF-E35B768DBD9A@sonic.net> <4B5A81EF-28C7-45F4-8678-51EC24A692F6@verizon.net> Message-ID: Thanks for the suggestions.? The dye showed slight leaks around the valve cover and side cover, but the main flow was coming from the oil filter pipe adapter (I'm not sure if that's the right name).? My guess is that I need to replace the crush washer that sits between the block and oil pipe adapter.? I haven't found a good diagram online - most engine diagrams show the other side of the engine, and then the oil filter diagrams usually show oil coolers/hoses - but I think the washer is Moss 324-800 (or 6K501).? Shipping out a washer (or a few washers) costs about 10x the price of the washer, so I'd like to find something local if I can, more to save time than money.? Does anyone know if there's a generic description of this washer so I can check with local auto parts stores? Two follow-on questions: 1) How can I get access to the adapter so I can replace the washer? 2) As long as I'm removing that adapter, should I just go ahead and install an oil cooler?? It would be overkill, but it doesn't seem like it would be much more effort, and the cooler kits include the washer. ;-) Thanks. --Steve (1980 MGB) --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com From jimray at hartcom.net Mon Jun 3 16:06:40 2019 From: jimray at hartcom.net (Jim Ray) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 18:06:40 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <88a9a5ca-fad2-bb29-b786-ab0838f2ea09@hartcom.net> OK guys, here is the scoop on transmission fluid for a Borg Warner T35 automatic. I have owned an MGB with a Rover V8 coupled to a BW T35 for over 25 years and I have always used Type F fluid in it. This is what the MGB Service Manual specifics and it is also the recommended fluid for the MGC which uses the same transmission.? I doubt any of the following are still available but this is what shown as approved brands for the automatic: Duckhams Q-matic, Castrol TQF, Esso Glide, Mobil ATF 210, BP Autran B, Shell Donax T7, Texamatic Type F, Fina Purfimatic. The attached photo is Walmart's brand and is the one I am using. Hope this helps. Jim Ray On 6/3/2019 4:51 PM, Dan DiBiase via Mgs wrote: > I guess my question is, why WOULDN'T you use ATF? > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > > > On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:23 PM James Schulte > wrote: > > Dan, > Is ATF what you are suggesting? > Jim > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable > smartphone > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Dan DiBiase > > Date: 6/3/19 4:17 PM (GMT-05:00) > To: James Schulte > > Cc: MG List > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid > > Jim, why would you not use ATF? I've seen recommendations for Type > F. Not sure whether that is still available or not. > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > > > > On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:03 PM James Schulte via Mgs > > wrote: > > Looking for suggestions on tranny fluid for automatic T 35 > Borg Warner. Don't say 20w50 oil cause autos are different. > What is the recommended fluid in the US. and how much will the > tranny take in quarts? > Thanks for your time and consideration. > Jim > Harleysville,? PA > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable > smartphone > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs > > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/jimray at hartcom.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_20190603_171907.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 1301822 bytes Desc: not available URL: From dannyvarnado at cox.net Mon Jun 3 16:09:17 2019 From: dannyvarnado at cox.net (dannyvarnado at cox.net) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 17:09:17 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] PCV question Message-ID: <018401d51a58$fdf713d0$f9e53b70$@cox.net> Hi all, I have a '74 MBG engine with a '64 through '67 PCV valve on the manifold and connected to the front cover breather pipe. I have a hose running from the valve cover pipe to the air cleaner. Seems to work fine for daily around town driving. My problem occurs when traveling at 65 mph sustained speed for about 100 miles. The problem is I blow out about half a quart of oil from somewhere mid-engine or back on the passenger side. I can't find any obvious place that the oil is coming from but it seems to be concentrated near the starter. Any suggestions? Thanks, Danny -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schultejim at msn.com Mon Jun 3 16:11:57 2019 From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 22:11:57 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Dan Lol, are you a current or retired teacher/professor? That's exactly how I would challenge my student. I don't like to assume knowing what is accepted practice on a topic I haven't researched outside my trusty internet bulletin boards. I don't have literature on the T 35 and used a local shop to service it 9 years ago when I became concerned about the way it was operating. ( not down shifting when decelerating. ) So now it needs to warm up before it shifts from 2nd to 3rd. I am thinking I should at least change the fluid to see if that solves the problem. Not being a mechanic, that is my initial plan. The shop refused to take my car in due to the experienced mechanic being retired. Jim Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Dan DiBiase Date: 6/3/19 4:52 PM (GMT-05:00) To: James Schulte Cc: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid I guess my question is, why WOULDN'T you use ATF? Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:23 PM James Schulte > wrote: Dan, Is ATF what you are suggesting? Jim Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Dan DiBiase > Date: 6/3/19 4:17 PM (GMT-05:00) To: James Schulte > Cc: MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid Jim, why would you not use ATF? I've seen recommendations for Type F. Not sure whether that is still available or not. Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:03 PM James Schulte via Mgs > wrote: Looking for suggestions on tranny fluid for automatic T 35 Borg Warner. Don't say 20w50 oil cause autos are different. What is the recommended fluid in the US. and how much will the tranny take in quarts? Thanks for your time and consideration. Jim Harleysville, PA Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Jun 3 16:17:43 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 15:17:43 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] PCV question In-Reply-To: <018401d51a58$fdf713d0$f9e53b70$@cox.net> References: <018401d51a58$fdf713d0$f9e53b70$@cox.net> Message-ID: I think your problem is that the valve cover pipe does not run through a PCV valve. A pre-67 doesn?t have a pipe from the valve cover. I would try running a Y-junction, bringing both hoses together before running into the PCV, to simulate the early configuration. -- Max Heim mvheim at sonic.net > On Jun 3, 2019, at 3:09 PM, dannyvarnado--- via Mgs wrote: > > Hi all, > I have a ?74 MBG engine with a ?64 through ?67 PCV valve on the manifold and connected to the front cover breather pipe. I have a hose running from the valve cover pipe to the air cleaner. > Seems to work fine for daily around town driving. My problem occurs when traveling at 65 mph sustained speed for about 100 miles. > The problem is I blow out about half a quart of oil from somewhere mid-engine or back on the passenger side. I can?t find any obvious place that the oil is coming from but it seems to be concentrated near the starter. > Any suggestions? > Thanks, > Danny > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Jun 3 16:20:17 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 15:20:17 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3347003D-8751-40E6-95BC-A7E087EBF8A3@sonic.net> Type F is still available. What do you think your local shop put in it all those years ago, if not Type F? It is probably due for a fluid and filter change after all that time, anyway. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jun 3, 2019, at 3:11 PM, James Schulte via Mgs wrote: > > Dan > Lol, are you a current or retired teacher/professor? > That's exactly how I would challenge my student. > I don't like to assume knowing what is accepted practice on a topic I haven't researched outside my trusty internet bulletin boards. I don't have literature on the T 35 and used a local shop to service it 9 years ago when I became concerned about the way it was operating. ( not down shifting when decelerating. ) > So now it needs to warm up before it shifts from 2nd to 3rd. I am thinking I should at least change the fluid to see if that solves the problem. Not being a mechanic, that is my initial plan. The shop refused to take my car in due to the experienced mechanic being retired. > Jim > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Dan DiBiase > Date: 6/3/19 4:52 PM (GMT-05:00) > To: James Schulte > Cc: MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid > > I guess my question is, why WOULDN'T you use ATF? > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > > On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:23 PM James Schulte > wrote: > Dan, > Is ATF what you are suggesting? > Jim > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Dan DiBiase > > Date: 6/3/19 4:17 PM (GMT-05:00) > To: James Schulte > > Cc: MG List > > Subject: Re: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid > > Jim, why would you not use ATF? I've seen recommendations for Type F. Not sure whether that is still available or not. > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > > On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:03 PM James Schulte via Mgs > wrote: > Looking for suggestions on tranny fluid for automatic T 35 Borg Warner. Don't say 20w50 oil cause autos are different. What is the recommended fluid in the US. and how much will the tranny take in quarts? > Thanks for your time and consideration. > Jim > Harleysville, PA > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schultejim at msn.com Mon Jun 3 16:22:58 2019 From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 22:22:58 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Craig Thank you that was very helpful. When I had my 69 MGC Robert Kirk was very helpful. This tranny was used in the C. I could not access the Rover one but that's ok. Thanks Jim Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Craig Brownlee Date: 6/3/19 4:34 PM (GMT-05:00) To: James Schulte Cc: MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid I don?t have any experience with the T35 but did find this on the MGExperience website. Might be useful for you. https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgc-forum.48/automatic-transmission-fluid-type.2578491/ Craig Craig Brownlee, PE LLC 918-728-5950 craigbrownlee at cox.net On Jun 3, 2019, at 3:03 PM, James Schulte via Mgs > wrote: Looking for suggestions on tranny fluid for automatic T 35 Borg Warner. Don't say 20w50 oil cause autos are different. What is the recommended fluid in the US. and how much will the tranny take in quarts? Thanks for your time and consideration. Jim Harleysville, PA Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/craigbrownlee at cox.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From schultejim at msn.com Mon Jun 3 16:29:20 2019 From: schultejim at msn.com (James Schulte) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 22:29:20 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid In-Reply-To: <3347003D-8751-40E6-95BC-A7E087EBF8A3@sonic.net> References: , <3347003D-8751-40E6-95BC-A7E087EBF8A3@sonic.net> Message-ID: I have a bottle of Dexron VI but I think I bought that for my 2009 Silverado when it was struggling. In my trunk is an Advanced Suto Type F which is red and that is the color on the dip stick. It is made for Fords and foriegn trannys. Jim Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Max Heim Date: 6/3/19 6:20 PM (GMT-05:00) To: James Schulte Cc: Dan DiBiase , MG List Subject: Re: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid Type F is still available. What do you think your local shop put in it all those years ago, if not Type F? It is probably due for a fluid and filter change after all that time, anyway. -- Max Heim '66 MGB On Jun 3, 2019, at 3:11 PM, James Schulte via Mgs > wrote: Dan Lol, are you a current or retired teacher/professor? That's exactly how I would challenge my student. I don't like to assume knowing what is accepted practice on a topic I haven't researched outside my trusty internet bulletin boards. I don't have literature on the T 35 and used a local shop to service it 9 years ago when I became concerned about the way it was operating. ( not down shifting when decelerating. ) So now it needs to warm up before it shifts from 2nd to 3rd. I am thinking I should at least change the fluid to see if that solves the problem. Not being a mechanic, that is my initial plan. The shop refused to take my car in due to the experienced mechanic being retired. Jim Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Dan DiBiase > Date: 6/3/19 4:52 PM (GMT-05:00) To: James Schulte > Cc: MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid I guess my question is, why WOULDN'T you use ATF? Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:23 PM James Schulte > wrote: Dan, Is ATF what you are suggesting? Jim Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Dan DiBiase > Date: 6/3/19 4:17 PM (GMT-05:00) To: James Schulte > Cc: MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid Jim, why would you not use ATF? I've seen recommendations for Type F. Not sure whether that is still available or not. Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:03 PM James Schulte via Mgs > wrote: Looking for suggestions on tranny fluid for automatic T 35 Borg Warner. Don't say 20w50 oil cause autos are different. What is the recommended fluid in the US. and how much will the tranny take in quarts? Thanks for your time and consideration. Jim Harleysville, PA Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richard.ewald at gmail.com Mon Jun 3 16:45:31 2019 From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald) Date: Mon, 3 Jun 2019 15:45:31 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01B10874-A0F8-447F-BE48-0F290E9C24AA@gmail.com> BW 35 ( used in both Jag XJ6 and Volvo models both of which I worked on) take ATF type F. Type F is probably getting a bit hard to find but is has much different than dextrin/mercon. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 3, 2019, at 1:23 PM, James Schulte via Mgs wrote: > > Dan, > Is ATF what you are suggesting? > Jim > > > > Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone > > > -------- Original message -------- > From: Dan DiBiase > Date: 6/3/19 4:17 PM (GMT-05:00) > To: James Schulte > Cc: MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] T35 Borg Warner auto fluid > > Jim, why would you not use ATF? I've seen recommendations for Type F. Not sure whether that is still available or not. > > Dan D > Central NJ USA > http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ > > >> On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 4:03 PM James Schulte via Mgs wrote: >> Looking for suggestions on tranny fluid for automatic T 35 Borg Warner. Don't say 20w50 oil cause autos are different. What is the recommended fluid in the US. and how much will the tranny take in quarts? >> Thanks for your time and consideration. >> Jim >> Harleysville, PA >> >> >> >> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S10e, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Jun 4 01:34:04 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2019 08:34:04 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] PCV question References: <018401d51a58$fdf713d0$f9e53b70$@cox.net> Message-ID: <1175C8FDE4684D91BAB39D764B1963DE@paul> You are describing two types of crankcase breathing, which should not exist on the same car. The first from inception to Feb 64 used a hose from the rocker cover to the front air cleaner. The second from then to Oct 68 used a PCV valve on the inlet manifold with a hose going to the front tappet chest cover. The Y-connector Max talks about was only used after that when the tappet chest cover was plumbed to both carbs in place of the PCV valve. But oil loss on the starter side won't be anything to do with that anyway. More likely to be something to do with the filter/filter head perhaps a seal blowing under higher oil pressures and hotter oil, oil cooler connections if present, or oil gauge connection. The latter is right above the starter of course, but at speed oil is going to be blown back anyway. Could also be rocker cover. Stuff that side of the engine with balled-up newspaper and that may help to localise the source. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I have a '74 MBG engine with a '64 through '67 PCV valve on the manifold and connected to the front cover breather pipe. I have a hose running from the valve cover pipe to the air cleaner. Seems to work fine for daily around town driving. My problem occurs when traveling at 65 mph sustained speed for about 100 miles. The problem is I blow out about half a quart of oil from somewhere mid-engine or back on the passenger side. I can't find any obvious place that the oil is coming from but it seems to be concentrated near the starter. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Tue Jun 4 12:27:29 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2019 14:27:29 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Something (or things) leaks - how to locate the source? In-Reply-To: References: <3fdba8de-051c-94cd-f92f-14e491d5d5f9@shoyer.com> <6C70D3B4-86F8-47C9-AA48-AD76CFD1E294@sonic.net> <6C8F8356-7CD7-4092-B4AF-E35B768DBD9A@sonic.net> <4B5A81EF-28C7-45F4-8678-51EC24A692F6@verizon.net> Message-ID: I think there is (or used to be) a Moss re-seller somewhere in NE Mass..... The one I was thinking of wasn't on this list, but I would try calling around for either the part you need, or advice on 'what would work'.... https://www.mg-cars.org.uk/garages/Massachusetts.html Dan D Central NJ USA http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ On Mon, Jun 3, 2019 at 5:13 PM Steve Shoyer via Mgs wrote: > Thanks for the suggestions. The dye showed slight leaks around the > valve cover and side cover, but the main flow was coming from the oil > filter pipe adapter (I'm not sure if that's the right name). My guess > is that I need to replace the crush washer that sits between the block > and oil pipe adapter. I haven't found a good diagram online - most > engine diagrams show the other side of the engine, and then the oil > filter diagrams usually show oil coolers/hoses - but I think the washer > is Moss 324-800 (or 6K501). Shipping out a washer (or a few washers) > costs about 10x the price of the washer, so I'd like to find something > local if I can, more to save time than money. Does anyone know if > there's a generic description of this washer so I can check with local > auto parts stores? > > Two follow-on questions: > > 1) How can I get access to the adapter so I can replace the washer? > 2) As long as I'm removing that adapter, should I just go ahead and > install an oil cooler? It would be overkill, but it doesn't seem like > it would be much more effort, and the cooler kits include the washer. ;-) > > Thanks. > > --Steve (1980 MGB) > > > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. > https://www.avg.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Fri Jun 7 16:44:33 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 17:44:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 1978 MGB Message-ID: <001901d51d82$9408b410$bc1a1c30$@ranteer.com> After a short hiatus, I am back trying to figure this thing out. Starts when cold, no problem. runs at 2500 to 3000 rpm no problem. Let it go down to 1000 or so and it dies. Will not restart. Fuel is flowing. Spark on all 4 cylinders according to my spark testing tool Starter fluid accomplishes nothing No signs of flooding - no gas smell, plugs are neither oily nor gassy, no gas pouring into carb This has the water choke. Could that be the problem? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Fri Jun 7 19:20:51 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 20:20:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] 1978 MGB In-Reply-To: <2E407E0B-EE01-444C-B8A5-6B9253EAA14C@gmail.com> References: <001901d51d82$9408b410$bc1a1c30$@ranteer.com> <2E407E0B-EE01-444C-B8A5-6B9253EAA14C@gmail.com> Message-ID: <000901d51d98$69a197d0$3ce4c770$@ranteer.com> The only way to get it restarted is to wait. Its all pretty stock although I have replaced the fuel pump. Tomorrow my mechanic is going to rebuild the carb. From: Richard Ewald Sent: Friday, June 7, 2019 8:13 PM To: dave Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1978 MGB After it dies what do you do to get it restarted? Does it still have the stock carb? Stock fuel pump? Ignition system? Rick Sent from my iPhone On Jun 7, 2019, at 3:44 PM, dave via Mgs > wrote: After a short hiatus, I am back trying to figure this thing out. Starts when cold, no problem. runs at 2500 to 3000 rpm no problem. Let it go down to 1000 or so and it dies. Will not restart. Fuel is flowing. Spark on all 4 cylinders according to my spark testing tool Starter fluid accomplishes nothing No signs of flooding ? no gas smell, plugs are neither oily nor gassy, no gas pouring into carb This has the water choke. Could that be the problem? _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paul at ece.rochester.edu Fri Jun 7 21:11:20 2019 From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 03:11:20 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] 1978 MGB In-Reply-To: <000901d51d98$69a197d0$3ce4c770$@ranteer.com> References: <001901d51d82$9408b410$bc1a1c30$@ranteer.com> <2E407E0B-EE01-444C-B8A5-6B9253EAA14C@gmail.com> <000901d51d98$69a197d0$3ce4c770$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: If starting fluid does nothing, I would be looking at ignition. Rebuilding the carbs I would hold off till you get it to run. On Jun 7, 2019, at 9:20 PM, dave via Mgs > wrote: The only way to get it restarted is to wait. Its all pretty stock although I have replaced the fuel pump. Tomorrow my mechanic is going to rebuild the carb. From: Richard Ewald > Sent: Friday, June 7, 2019 8:13 PM To: dave > Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1978 MGB After it dies what do you do to get it restarted? Does it still have the stock carb? Stock fuel pump? Ignition system? Rick Sent from my iPhone On Jun 7, 2019, at 3:44 PM, dave via Mgs > wrote: After a short hiatus, I am back trying to figure this thing out. Starts when cold, no problem. runs at 2500 to 3000 rpm no problem. Let it go down to 1000 or so and it dies. Will not restart. Fuel is flowing. Spark on all 4 cylinders according to my spark testing tool Starter fluid accomplishes nothing No signs of flooding ? no gas smell, plugs are neither oily nor gassy, no gas pouring into carb This has the water choke. Could that be the problem? _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=4FL38gaKKkk1OJo_f1TJcOSZ3NgCK7pL7gepZFKFhUA&s=D0pEDCPuqkZmsOj8Y3yNiyOwmK70EGIpkv65LQerLoo&e= Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=4FL38gaKKkk1OJo_f1TJcOSZ3NgCK7pL7gepZFKFhUA&s=AmwgJTcRIZ3ijW-hrRJlW5aXdHaMUY9ku6JKImrzHLU&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=4FL38gaKKkk1OJo_f1TJcOSZ3NgCK7pL7gepZFKFhUA&s=DKIhnjX5XvUxgse9oq3ZGHi6m7NT197aEWkogZ4VuS4&e= Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=4FL38gaKKkk1OJo_f1TJcOSZ3NgCK7pL7gepZFKFhUA&s=_ILrE4q7C-k5UI2XvEyvWa7Whv1OHkegn-kkuLCc-OI&e= Paul Osborne Department of Electrical and Computer Eng University of Rochester 201 Hopeman Building RC Rochester NY 14627 585-275-5226 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Sat Jun 8 03:07:04 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 10:07:04 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] 1978 MGB References: <001901d51d82$9408b410$bc1a1c30$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <588B8707C2914B19BC2397398ACB5ACB@paul> If the plugs aren't fouled then I doubt it is the choke stuck open, but you could check that with a Colortune in from cold. It could still be the choke though in that when that warms and removes the fast idle the normal idle screw is not open enough to maintain the engine. Are you warm starting giving it a little throttle with the pedal? Or just cranking feet off? IME they need a little throttle when warm, but not cold when the choke is activated. When it is left to get cold and you turn on the ignition again and it starts, does the fuel pump chatter away or just click a couple of times - that's if you have an SU or equivalent pump? "no gas pouring into carb" do you mean no gas is pouring out of the carb overflow? When it won't restart switch off and take the fuel delivery pipe off the carb and you should get a spurt of fuel. If not direct the pipe into a container and switch on again, and you should get at least one Imperial pint per minute and in practice double that, in a continuous series of pulses with minimal bubbling. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Starts when cold, no problem. runs at 2500 to 3000 rpm no problem. Let it go down to 1000 or so and it dies. Will not restart. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From JPOWERS316 at msn.com Sat Jun 8 16:08:04 2019 From: JPOWERS316 at msn.com (Joe Powers) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 22:08:04 +0000 Subject: [Mgs] Remove the oil cooler Message-ID: Greetings, My MGA has a B engine with oil cooler fitted. I?d like to remove it. Can I just cap the fittings at the oil filter and the block? Is the cap ? inch BSP? Are there two types of cap with different ways to seal? Thanks for any help, Joe Sent from Mail for Windows 10 -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Sat Jun 8 17:19:02 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Sat, 8 Jun 2019 18:19:02 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Remove the oil cooler In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3cec7b0d-8936-0125-b866-2cc587fb080e@twc.com> No!? There's a short bypass hose that must be installed in lieu of the oil cooler.? It goes from the oil outlet on the block to the oil filter adapter. CR On 6/8/2019 5:08 PM, Joe Powers via Mgs wrote: > > Greetings, > > My MGA has a B engine with oil cooler fitted.? I?d like to remove it. > > Can I just cap the fittings at the oil filter and the block? > > Is the cap ? inch BSP? Are there two types of cap with different ways > to seal? > > Thanks for any help,? Joe > > Sent from Mail for > Windows 10 > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Wed Jun 12 10:51:00 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2019 11:51:00 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. Message-ID: Hi Friends, My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story. When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. Rick -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Thu Jun 13 01:28:51 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 08:28:51 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. References: Message-ID: <6C43FAC945874644B1C4D95FC1521F3A@paul> Reminds me of a problem I discovered when replacing my MGB pump. The threaded holes on that are blind, and new screws (of different lengths) were quite variable in length from the ideal. Some barely went in a couple of threads, but equally important some were bottoming just as they started clamping up the gasket. I had to test-fit the pump without the gasket and nip up each screw one at a time to make sure the pump was being clamped to the head so with the gasket it definitely would, as well as get some extra longer screws and cut them down for the shorter positions. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- When reassembling the waterpump ... -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Thu Jun 13 08:57:35 2019 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 16:57:35 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of the radiator pipe. Nut with a dry result! Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. Then the GT should be roadworthy again. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG - Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs Verzonden: woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List Onderwerp: [Mgs] Silly error. Hi Friends, My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story. When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. Rick --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Thu Jun 13 11:49:32 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 12:49:32 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> Message-ID: Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps around the shop and all was still well. Rick On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: > Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. > > Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to > replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. > > A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of > the radiator pipe. > > Nut with a dry result! > > > > Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. > > Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. > > Then the GT should be roadworthy again. > > > > Cheers, > > Hans > > 71 BGT NRG - > > > > > > > > *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *Namens *Richard Lindsay > via Mgs > *Verzonden:* woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 > *Aan:* mgs at autox.team.net List > *Onderwerp:* [Mgs] Silly error. > > > > Hi Friends, > > My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue > is universal. Here's the short story. > > When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry > and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the > head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded > hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. > > I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place > fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes > the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. > > > > Rick > > > Virusvrij. > www.avast.com > > <#m_-2666518911097195659_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Thu Jun 13 12:51:13 2019 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 14:51:13 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> Good on both of you. Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional filter-none had any grit or sediment. Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day yesterday. Bob > On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote: > > Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. > I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps around the shop and all was still well. > > Rick > >> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: >> Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. >> >> Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. >> >> A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of the radiator pipe. >> >> Nut with a dry result! >> >> >> >> Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. >> >> Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. >> >> Then the GT should be roadworthy again. >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> Hans >> >> 71 BGT NRG - >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs >> Verzonden: woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 >> Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List >> Onderwerp: [Mgs] Silly error. >> >> >> >> Hi Friends, >> >> My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story. >> >> When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. >> >> I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. >> >> >> >> Rick >> >> >> Virusvrij. www.avast.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Thu Jun 13 14:12:40 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 15:12:40 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> Message-ID: Keep cleaning Bob. :-) My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: > Good on both of you. > Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a > friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, > sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. > Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One > had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of > that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. > The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger > than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the > additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the > tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional > filter-none had any grit or sediment. > Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. > Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is > in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day > yesterday. > Bob > > > On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs > wrote: > > Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in > two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the > engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. > I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple > of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps > around the shop and all was still well. > > Rick > > On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven > wrote: > >> Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. >> >> Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to >> replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. >> >> A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom >> of the radiator pipe. >> >> Nut with a dry result! >> >> >> >> Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal >> particles. >> >> Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. >> >> Then the GT should be roadworthy again. >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> Hans >> >> 71 BGT NRG - >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *Namens *Richard Lindsay >> via Mgs >> *Verzonden:* woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 >> *Aan:* mgs at autox.team.net List >> *Onderwerp:* [Mgs] Silly error. >> >> >> >> Hi Friends, >> >> My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue >> is universal. Here's the short story. >> >> When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a >> hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to >> the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded >> hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. >> >> I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place >> fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes >> the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. >> >> >> >> Rick >> >> >> Virusvrij. >> www.avast.com >> >> <#m_-737199480811640730_m_-2666518911097195659_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> >> > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Thu Jun 13 16:20:55 2019 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 18:20:55 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> Message-ID: Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of float chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of compressed air on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the passage. If not, we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, with its side panels diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult. It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as easy as in TD. Fuel, air, spark?we are working to get them all in proper proportion. Bob > On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > > Keep cleaning Bob. :-) > > My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. > > So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. > >> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: >> Good on both of you. >> Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. >> Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. >> The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional filter-none had any grit or sediment. >> Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. >> Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day yesterday. >> Bob >> >> >>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote: >>> >>> Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. >>> I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps around the shop and all was still well. >>> >>> Rick >>> >>>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: >>>> Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. >>>> >>>> Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. >>>> >>>> A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of the radiator pipe. >>>> >>>> Nut with a dry result! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. >>>> >>>> Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. >>>> >>>> Then the GT should be roadworthy again. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> Hans >>>> >>>> 71 BGT NRG - >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs >>>> Verzonden: woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 >>>> Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List >>>> Onderwerp: [Mgs] Silly error. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Hi Friends, >>>> >>>> My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story. >>>> >>>> When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. >>>> >>>> I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Rick >>>> >>>> >>>> Virusvrij. www.avast.com >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Thu Jun 13 16:26:08 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 17:26:08 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Bob. With the covers off and the air dams out, you can clean the jets with tiny plastic brushes, or even pipe cleaners wetted with spray carb cleaner. Here's what I use (carefully). https://www.amazon.com/Brushes-Drinking-Glasses-Keyboards-Cleaning/dp/B073ZCYFY2/ref=sr_1_21_sspa?keywords=Small+plastic+brushes&qid=1560464677&s=gateway&sr=8-21-spons&psc=1 Rick On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 5:20 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: > Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of float > chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of compressed air > on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the passage. If not, > we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, with its side panels > diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult. > It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, > after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it > improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent > the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the > engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the > distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% > sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as > easy as in TD. > Fuel, air, spark?we are working to get them all in proper proportion. > Bob > > On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay > wrote: > > Keep cleaning Bob. :-) > > My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed > issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran > fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. > > So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. > > On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: > >> Good on both of you. >> Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a >> friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, >> sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. >> Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. >> One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of >> that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. >> The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger >> than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the >> additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the >> tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional >> filter-none had any grit or sediment. >> Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. >> Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment >> is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day >> yesterday. >> Bob >> >> >> On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs >> wrote: >> >> Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in >> two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the >> engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. >> I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A >> couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few >> laps around the shop and all was still well. >> >> Rick >> >> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven >> wrote: >> >>> Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. >>> >>> Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to >>> replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. >>> >>> A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom >>> of the radiator pipe. >>> >>> Nut with a dry result! >>> >>> >>> >>> Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal >>> particles. >>> >>> Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. >>> >>> Then the GT should be roadworthy again. >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Hans >>> >>> 71 BGT NRG - >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *Namens *Richard Lindsay >>> via Mgs >>> *Verzonden:* woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 >>> *Aan:* mgs at autox.team.net List >>> *Onderwerp:* [Mgs] Silly error. >>> >>> >>> >>> Hi Friends, >>> >>> My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the >>> issue is universal. Here's the short story. >>> >>> When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a >>> hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to >>> the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded >>> hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. >>> >>> I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and >>> place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully >>> completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on >>> my MG TD. >>> >>> >>> >>> Rick >>> >>> >>> Virusvrij. >>> www.avast.com >>> >>> <#m_4813474141780684756_m_-737199480811640730_m_-2666518911097195659_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Thu Jun 13 16:32:04 2019 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 18:32:04 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> Message-ID: <9BD33322-DDF4-4177-B27C-577A68B254FD@gmail.com> Good idea! I had forgotten that I have a set of the smaller sizes, from HF, purveyors of fine tools, and a couple of smaller ones that I use for cleaning hummingbird feeders. It will be the HF ones used on this project. Thanks for the reminder. > On Jun 13, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > > Hi Bob. With the covers off and the air dams out, you can clean the jets with tiny plastic brushes, or even pipe cleaners wetted with spray carb cleaner. Here's what I use (carefully). > > https://www.amazon.com/Brushes-Drinking-Glasses-Keyboards-Cleaning/dp/B073ZCYFY2/ref=sr_1_21_sspa?keywords=Small+plastic+brushes&qid=1560464677&s=gateway&sr=8-21-spons&psc=1 > > Rick > >> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 5:20 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: >> Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of float chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of compressed air on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the passage. If not, we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, with its side panels diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult. >> It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as easy as in TD. >> Fuel, air, spark?we are working to get them all in proper proportion. >> Bob >> >>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote: >>> >>> Keep cleaning Bob. :-) >>> >>> My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. >>> >>> So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. >>> >>>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: >>>> Good on both of you. >>>> Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. >>>> Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. >>>> The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional filter-none had any grit or sediment. >>>> Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. >>>> Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day yesterday. >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> >>>>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. >>>>> I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps around the shop and all was still well. >>>>> >>>>> Rick >>>>> >>>>>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: >>>>>> Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. >>>>>> >>>>>> Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. >>>>>> >>>>>> A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of the radiator pipe. >>>>>> >>>>>> Nut with a dry result! >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. >>>>>> >>>>>> Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. >>>>>> >>>>>> Then the GT should be roadworthy again. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Cheers, >>>>>> >>>>>> Hans >>>>>> >>>>>> 71 BGT NRG - >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs >>>>>> Verzonden: woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 >>>>>> Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List >>>>>> Onderwerp: [Mgs] Silly error. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Hi Friends, >>>>>> >>>>>> My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story. >>>>>> >>>>>> When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. >>>>>> >>>>>> I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Rick >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Virusvrij. www.avast.com >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Thu Jun 13 17:09:01 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 16:09:01 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: <9BD33322-DDF4-4177-B27C-577A68B254FD@gmail.com> References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> <9BD33322-DDF4-4177-B27C-577A68B254FD@gmail.com> Message-ID: <4C7E331B-5966-4C45-92CD-803233D7A9AA@sonic.net> Interesting observation? a hummingbird?s bill and a feeder is a reasonable working approximation of the action of an SU jet. Ha. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jun 13, 2019, at 3:32 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs wrote: > > Good idea! I had forgotten that I have a set of the smaller sizes, from HF, purveyors of fine tools, and a couple of smaller ones that I use for cleaning hummingbird feeders. It will be the HF ones used on this project. Thanks for the reminder. > > > On Jun 13, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Richard Lindsay > wrote: > >> Hi Bob. With the covers off and the air dams out, you can clean the jets with tiny plastic brushes, or even pipe cleaners wetted with spray carb cleaner. Here's what I use (carefully). >> >> https://www.amazon.com/Brushes-Drinking-Glasses-Keyboards-Cleaning/dp/B073ZCYFY2/ref=sr_1_21_sspa?keywords=Small+plastic+brushes&qid=1560464677&s=gateway&sr=8-21-spons&psc=1 >> >> Rick >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Thu Jun 13 17:19:28 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Thu, 13 Jun 2019 18:19:28 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: <4C7E331B-5966-4C45-92CD-803233D7A9AA@sonic.net> References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> <9BD33322-DDF4-4177-B27C-577A68B254FD@gmail.com> <4C7E331B-5966-4C45-92CD-803233D7A9AA@sonic.net> Message-ID: Such beautiful little precision machines. On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 6:09 PM Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > Interesting observation? a hummingbird?s bill and a feeder is a reasonable > working approximation of the action of an SU jet. Ha. > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > On Jun 13, 2019, at 3:32 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs > wrote: > > Good idea! I had forgotten that I have a set of the smaller sizes, from > HF, purveyors of fine tools, and a couple of smaller ones that I use for > cleaning hummingbird feeders. It will be the HF ones used on this project. > Thanks for the reminder. > > > On Jun 13, 2019, at 6:26 PM, Richard Lindsay > wrote: > > Hi Bob. With the covers off and the air dams out, you can clean the jets > with tiny plastic brushes, or even pipe cleaners wetted with spray carb > cleaner. Here's what I use (carefully). > > > https://www.amazon.com/Brushes-Drinking-Glasses-Keyboards-Cleaning/dp/B073ZCYFY2/ref=sr_1_21_sspa?keywords=Small+plastic+brushes&qid=1560464677&s=gateway&sr=8-21-spons&psc=1 > > Rick > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Fri Jun 14 01:16:04 2019 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 09:16:04 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> Message-ID: <004001d52281$0c12ec70$2438c550$@planet.nl> Good show Bob! When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts. Especially at lower revs play causes false air taken into the carb, with bad low speed driving as a result. Cheers, Hans Van: Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] Verzonden: vrijdag 14 juni 2019 0:21 Aan: Richard Lindsay CC: Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Silly error. Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of float chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of compressed air on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the passage. If not, we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, with its side panels diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult. It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as easy as in TD. Fuel, air, spark?we are working to get them all in proper proportion. Bob On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote: Keep cleaning Bob. :-) My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: Good on both of you. Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional filter-none had any grit or sediment. Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day yesterday. Bob On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote: Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps around the shop and all was still well. Rick On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of the radiator pipe. Nut with a dry result! Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. Then the GT should be roadworthy again. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG - Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs Verzonden: woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List Onderwerp: [Mgs] Silly error. Hi Friends, My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story. When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. Rick Afbeelding verwijderd door afzender. Virusvrij. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Fri Jun 14 01:21:43 2019 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 09:21:43 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. P.S. Message-ID: <004601d52281$d1591720$740b4560$@planet.nl> Talking about a TF: I was offered a nice looking TF yesterday, but it?s in Beverly Hills, which is quite far from The Netherlands? https://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1955-mg-tf-right-hand-drive-c-9316.htm Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG Van: Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] Verzonden: vrijdag 14 juni 2019 0:21 Aan: Richard Lindsay CC: Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Silly error. Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of float chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of compressed air on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the passage. If not, we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, with its side panels diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult. It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as easy as in TD. Fuel, air, spark?we are working to get them all in proper proportion. Bob On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote: Keep cleaning Bob. :-) My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: Good on both of you. Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional filter-none had any grit or sediment. Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day yesterday. Bob On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote: Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps around the shop and all was still well. Rick On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of the radiator pipe. Nut with a dry result! Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. Then the GT should be roadworthy again. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG - Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs Verzonden: woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List Onderwerp: [Mgs] Silly error. Hi Friends, My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story. When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. Rick Afbeelding verwijderd door afzender. Virusvrij. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 05:47:13 2019 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 07:47:13 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: <004001d52281$0c12ec70$2438c550$@planet.nl> References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> <004001d52281$0c12ec70$2438c550$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <140AFB3A-5AB4-465A-A166-8F8318D943B6@gmail.com> Something I did not mention before was that, at 3000 RPM in the driveway, both SU carb pistons flutter rapidly up and down. Might this suggest a sticking valve or two? The car is fresh out of winter storage. Shafts are snug, fortunately, and they pass the propane (Bernz-torch) test. Inspired by Barney Gaylord?s discussions on SU rebuilding, I got the reamer he suggested and did a couple for another very-worn car, using bushings and new standard-size shafts. Performance improvement was astounding. Owner reported that he could climb hills easily in fourth speed, hills that he had before struggled with in third. Bob > On Jun 14, 2019, at 3:16 AM, Hans Duinhoven wrote: > > Good show Bob! > When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts. > Especially at lower revs play causes false air taken into the carb, with bad low speed driving as a result. > > Cheers, > Hans > > Van: Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] > Verzonden: vrijdag 14 juni 2019 0:21 > Aan: Richard Lindsay > CC: Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List > Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Silly error. > > Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of float chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of compressed air on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the passage. If not, we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, with its side panels diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult. > It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as easy as in TD. > Fuel, air, spark?we are working to get them all in proper proportion. > Bob > > On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > > Keep cleaning Bob. :-) > > My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. > > So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. > > On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: > Good on both of you. > Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. > Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. > The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional filter-none had any grit or sediment. > Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. > Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day yesterday. > Bob > > > On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote: > > Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. > I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps around the shop and all was still well. > > Rick > > On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: > Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. > Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. > A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of the radiator pipe. > Nut with a dry result! > > Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. > Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. > Then the GT should be roadworthy again. > > Cheers, > Hans > 71 BGT NRG - > > > > Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs > Verzonden: woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 > Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List > Onderwerp: [Mgs] Silly error. > > Hi Friends, > My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story. > When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. > I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. > > Rick > > > Virusvrij. www.avast.com > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 05:52:10 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 06:52:10 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: <004001d52281$0c12ec70$2438c550$@planet.nl> References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> <004001d52281$0c12ec70$2438c550$@planet.nl> Message-ID: Hans wrote, > When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts. So important. Here's a trick, a Bandaid or plaster if you will, to get you by if costly rebuilds are not an option. Fixing worn throttle shaft bores with new bushings is a serious repair, and the correct way to fix the vacuum leak. However, the following short term solution is to address the symptom, not the problem. Disassemble all the linkage at the carburetors. Purchase a few felt washers the size of the throttle shafts or a little smaller, and a tube of laboratory vacuum grease, the stuff they use to seal vacuum leaks in laboratory glassware. Saturate the felt washers with vacuum grease as well as the shafts where they exit the carb body and slide the greased washers up against the body. Place a flat washer on the shaft and reassemble the linkage, pressing the flat washer gently against the felt washer. The flat washer and linkage will hold the greased felt washer in place and the vacuum grease will seal the vacuum leak! Vacuum grease is made to withstand a bit of heat but also, to not 'migrate'. It will stay in place rather than get sucked into the carb's choke like regular grease would do (once hot). The felt washer also helps. Yes, this is a temporary fix, not a proper repair. But it is also a $10 temporary fix, not a $500 repair. A final word. Take care to reinstall the air chamber covers correctly (Not interchanged!) and verify that the air pistons drop freely on to the bridge with the dampers removed. Tighten the cover screws evenly working around the carb until they are snug. Good luck! You're on the right track. Rick On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 2:16 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: > Good show Bob! > > When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts. > > Especially at lower revs play causes false air taken into the carb, with > bad low speed driving as a result. > > > > Cheers, > > Hans > > > > *Van:* Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] > *Verzonden:* vrijdag 14 juni 2019 0:21 > *Aan:* Richard Lindsay > *CC:* Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List > *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] Silly error. > > > > Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of float > chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of compressed air > on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the passage. If not, > we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, with its side panels > diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult. > > It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, > after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it > improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent > the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the > engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the > distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% > sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as > easy as in TD. > > Fuel, air, spark?we are working to get them all in proper proportion. > > Bob > > > On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay > wrote: > > Keep cleaning Bob. :-) > > > > My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed > issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran > fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. > > > > So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. > > > > On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: > > Good on both of you. > > Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a > friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, > sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. > > Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One > had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of > that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. > > The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger > than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the > additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the > tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional > filter-none had any grit or sediment. > > Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. > > Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is > in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day > yesterday. > > Bob > > > > > On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs > wrote: > > Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in > two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the > engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. > > I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple > of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps > around the shop and all was still well. > > > > Rick > > > > On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven > wrote: > > Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. > > Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to > replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. > > A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of > the radiator pipe. > > Nut with a dry result! > > > > Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. > > Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. > > Then the GT should be roadworthy again. > > > > Cheers, > > Hans > > 71 BGT NRG - > > > > > > > > *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *Namens *Richard Lindsay > via Mgs > *Verzonden:* woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 > *Aan:* mgs at autox.team.net List > *Onderwerp:* [Mgs] Silly error. > > > > Hi Friends, > > My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue > is universal. Here's the short story. > > When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry > and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the > head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded > hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. > > I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place > fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes > the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. > > > > Rick > > > > [image: Afbeelding verwijderd door afzender.] > > > Virusvrij. www.avast.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 06:24:21 2019 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 08:24:21 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> <004001d52281$0c12ec70$2438c550$@planet.nl> Message-ID: Thanks for this idea, and for introducing Laboratory Grease. Unknown to me, I found it on Amazon for $6.75 the one ounce container. That will be a handy addition to the first-aid kit I keep. Fortunately, this engine?s carb shafts are snug. Carbs were rebuilt 10 years, 2500 miles ago, so the problem is not their shafts. I look forward to spending some time with it this weekend. Bob > On Jun 14, 2019, at 7:52 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > > Hans wrote, > > > When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts. > > So important. Here's a trick, a Bandaid or plaster if you will, to get you by if costly rebuilds are not an option. Fixing worn throttle shaft bores with new bushings is a serious repair, and the correct way to fix the vacuum leak. However, the following short term solution is to address the symptom, not the problem. > > Disassemble all the linkage at the carburetors. Purchase a few felt washers the size of the throttle shafts or a little smaller, and a tube of laboratory vacuum grease, the stuff they use to seal vacuum leaks in laboratory glassware. Saturate the felt washers with vacuum grease as well as the shafts where they exit the carb body and slide the greased washers up against the body. Place a flat washer on the shaft and reassemble the linkage, pressing the flat washer gently against the felt washer. The flat washer and linkage will hold the greased felt washer in place and the vacuum grease will seal the vacuum leak! > > Vacuum grease is made to withstand a bit of heat but also, to not 'migrate'. It will stay in place rather than get sucked into the carb's choke like regular grease would do (once hot). The felt washer also helps. > > Yes, this is a temporary fix, not a proper repair. But it is also a $10 temporary fix, not a $500 repair. > > A final word. Take care to reinstall the air chamber covers correctly (Not interchanged!) and verify that the air pistons drop freely on to the bridge with the dampers removed. Tighten the cover screws evenly working around the carb until they are snug. > > Good luck! You're on the right track. > > > > Rick > > On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 2:16 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: >> Good show Bob! >> >> When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts. >> >> Especially at lower revs play causes false air taken into the carb, with bad low speed driving as a result. >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> Hans >> >> >> >> Van: Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] >> Verzonden: vrijdag 14 juni 2019 0:21 >> Aan: Richard Lindsay >> CC: Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List >> Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Silly error. >> >> >> >> Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of float chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of compressed air on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the passage. If not, we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, with its side panels diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult. >> >> It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as easy as in TD. >> >> Fuel, air, spark?we are working to get them all in proper proportion. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote: >> >> Keep cleaning Bob. :-) >> >> >> >> My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. >> >> >> >> So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. >> >> >> >> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: >> >> Good on both of you. >> >> Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. >> >> Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. >> >> The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional filter-none had any grit or sediment. >> >> Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. >> >> Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day yesterday. >> >> Bob >> >> >> >> >> On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote: >> >> Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. >> >> I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps around the shop and all was still well. >> >> >> >> Rick >> >> >> >> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: >> >> Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. >> >> Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. >> >> A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of the radiator pipe. >> >> Nut with a dry result! >> >> >> >> Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. >> >> Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. >> >> Then the GT should be roadworthy again. >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> Hans >> >> 71 BGT NRG - >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs >> Verzonden: woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 >> Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List >> Onderwerp: [Mgs] Silly error. >> >> >> >> Hi Friends, >> >> My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story. >> >> When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. >> >> I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. >> >> >> >> Rick >> >> >> >> >> >> Virusvrij. www.avast.com >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 06:38:43 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 07:38:43 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> <004001d52281$0c12ec70$2438c550$@planet.nl> Message-ID: I wrote earlier but will repeat it here. Put your timing light on the #1 plug wire and observe the timing mark. Is it steady at idle? If not, the problem is probably in your distributor. When I rebuilt the distributor in my GT6, I discovered that someone had replaced one of the advance springs with a modified ball point pen (biro) spring! But even with new correct springs, the idle timing jumped around. I verified that the distributor shaft bushings were not worn. That is, no shaft wobble. However, the pivot shafts and holes in the advance mechanism were worn, allowing the weights to move on their own, and thus the timing, but only at idle. Once spun up against the stops, the timing was constant. I found the same wear problem in both my TR3b and TD! Pertronix distributors fixed the problem and let me set a smooth, constant slow idle. The OEM distributors are boxed up for the next owners. Rick On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 7:24 AM Robert's New iPad wrote: > Thanks for this idea, and for introducing Laboratory Grease. Unknown to > me, I found it on Amazon for $6.75 the one ounce container. That will be a > handy addition to the first-aid kit I keep. > Fortunately, this engine?s carb shafts are snug. Carbs were rebuilt 10 > years, 2500 miles ago, so the problem is not their shafts. > I look forward to spending some time with it this weekend. > Bob > > > On Jun 14, 2019, at 7:52 AM, Richard Lindsay > wrote: > > Hans wrote, > > > When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts. > > So important. Here's a trick, a Bandaid or plaster if you will, to get > you by if costly rebuilds are not an option. Fixing worn throttle shaft > bores with new bushings is a serious repair, and the correct way to fix the > vacuum leak. However, the following short term solution is to address the > symptom, not the problem. > > Disassemble all the linkage at the carburetors. Purchase a few felt > washers the size of the throttle shafts or a little smaller, and a tube of > laboratory vacuum grease, the stuff they use to seal vacuum leaks in > laboratory glassware. Saturate the felt washers with vacuum grease as well > as the shafts where they exit the carb body and slide the greased washers > up against the body. Place a flat washer on the shaft and reassemble the > linkage, pressing the flat washer gently against the felt washer. The flat > washer and linkage will hold the greased felt washer in place and the > vacuum grease will seal the vacuum leak! > > Vacuum grease is made to withstand a bit of heat but also, to not > 'migrate'. It will stay in place rather than get sucked into the carb's > choke like regular grease would do (once hot). The felt washer also helps. > > Yes, this is a temporary fix, not a proper repair. But it is also a $10 temporary > fix, not a $500 repair. > > A final word. Take care to reinstall the air chamber covers correctly > (Not interchanged!) and verify that the air pistons drop freely on to the > bridge with the dampers removed. Tighten the cover screws evenly working > around the carb until they are snug. > > Good luck! You're on the right track. > > > Rick > On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 2:16 AM Hans Duinhoven > wrote: > >> Good show Bob! >> >> When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts. >> >> Especially at lower revs play causes false air taken into the carb, with >> bad low speed driving as a result. >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> Hans >> >> >> >> *Van:* Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] >> *Verzonden:* vrijdag 14 juni 2019 0:21 >> *Aan:* Richard Lindsay >> *CC:* Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List >> *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] Silly error. >> >> >> >> Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of >> float chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of >> compressed air on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the >> passage. If not, we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, >> with its side panels diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult. >> >> It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, >> after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it >> improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent >> the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the >> engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the >> distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% >> sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as >> easy as in TD. >> >> Fuel, air, spark?we are working to get them all in proper proportion. >> >> Bob >> >> >> On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay >> wrote: >> >> Keep cleaning Bob. :-) >> >> >> >> My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed >> issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran >> fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. >> >> >> >> So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. >> >> >> >> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: >> >> Good on both of you. >> >> Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a >> friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, >> sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. >> >> Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. >> One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of >> that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. >> >> The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger >> than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the >> additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the >> tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional >> filter-none had any grit or sediment. >> >> Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. >> >> Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment >> is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day >> yesterday. >> >> Bob >> >> >> >> >> On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs >> wrote: >> >> Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in >> two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the >> engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. >> >> I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A >> couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few >> laps around the shop and all was still well. >> >> >> >> Rick >> >> >> >> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven >> wrote: >> >> Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. >> >> Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to >> replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. >> >> A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom >> of the radiator pipe. >> >> Nut with a dry result! >> >> >> >> Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal >> particles. >> >> Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. >> >> Then the GT should be roadworthy again. >> >> >> >> Cheers, >> >> Hans >> >> 71 BGT NRG - >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *Namens *Richard Lindsay >> via Mgs >> *Verzonden:* woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 >> *Aan:* mgs at autox.team.net List >> *Onderwerp:* [Mgs] Silly error. >> >> >> >> Hi Friends, >> >> My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue >> is universal. Here's the short story. >> >> When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a >> hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to >> the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded >> hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. >> >> I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place >> fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes >> the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. >> >> >> >> Rick >> >> >> >> [image: Afbeelding verwijderd door afzender.] >> >> >> Virusvrij. www.avast.com >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com >> >> -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From mgbobh at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 06:49:38 2019 From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 08:49:38 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> <004001d52281$0c12ec70$2438c550$@planet.nl> Message-ID: The owner said that it was running well when put away last fall. I don?t know the status of his distributor, so will do the tests you suggested. TF distributor access is not as convenient as TD, so he could well have forgotten the oiling locations in it. That?s a good DPO story about the Biro spring found in GT6. Several in our club have bought the Pertronix distributors and say they work well. It was the little Pertronix unit that I installed in my MGB when its shaft bushings were worn, and that the owner has in this TF. The owner?s commitments keep him from working on the problem until Sunday. I am eager to get the engine running, as this is a nicely done car. Bob > On Jun 14, 2019, at 8:38 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote: > > I wrote earlier but will repeat it here. Put your timing light on the #1 plug wire and observe the timing mark. Is it steady at idle? If not, the problem is probably in your distributor. When I rebuilt the distributor in my GT6, I discovered that someone had replaced one of the advance springs with a modified ball point pen (biro) spring! But even with new correct springs, the idle timing jumped around. > I verified that the distributor shaft bushings were not worn. That is, no shaft wobble. However, the pivot shafts and holes in the advance mechanism were worn, allowing the weights to move on their own, and thus the timing, but only at idle. Once spun up against the stops, the timing was constant. > I found the same wear problem in both my TR3b and TD! Pertronix distributors fixed the problem and let me set a smooth, constant slow idle. The OEM distributors are boxed up for the next owners. > > Rick > >> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 7:24 AM Robert's New iPad wrote: >> Thanks for this idea, and for introducing Laboratory Grease. Unknown to me, I found it on Amazon for $6.75 the one ounce container. That will be a handy addition to the first-aid kit I keep. >> Fortunately, this engine?s carb shafts are snug. Carbs were rebuilt 10 years, 2500 miles ago, so the problem is not their shafts. >> I look forward to spending some time with it this weekend. >> Bob >> >> >>> On Jun 14, 2019, at 7:52 AM, Richard Lindsay wrote: >>> >>> Hans wrote, >>> >>> > When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts. >>> >>> So important. Here's a trick, a Bandaid or plaster if you will, to get you by if costly rebuilds are not an option. Fixing worn throttle shaft bores with new bushings is a serious repair, and the correct way to fix the vacuum leak. However, the following short term solution is to address the symptom, not the problem. >>> >>> Disassemble all the linkage at the carburetors. Purchase a few felt washers the size of the throttle shafts or a little smaller, and a tube of laboratory vacuum grease, the stuff they use to seal vacuum leaks in laboratory glassware. Saturate the felt washers with vacuum grease as well as the shafts where they exit the carb body and slide the greased washers up against the body. Place a flat washer on the shaft and reassemble the linkage, pressing the flat washer gently against the felt washer. The flat washer and linkage will hold the greased felt washer in place and the vacuum grease will seal the vacuum leak! >>> >>> Vacuum grease is made to withstand a bit of heat but also, to not 'migrate'. It will stay in place rather than get sucked into the carb's choke like regular grease would do (once hot). The felt washer also helps. >>> >>> Yes, this is a temporary fix, not a proper repair. But it is also a $10 temporary fix, not a $500 repair. >>> >>> A final word. Take care to reinstall the air chamber covers correctly (Not interchanged!) and verify that the air pistons drop freely on to the bridge with the dampers removed. Tighten the cover screws evenly working around the carb until they are snug. >>> >>> Good luck! You're on the right track. >>> >>> >>> >>> Rick >>> >>> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 2:16 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: >>>> Good show Bob! >>>> >>>> When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts. >>>> >>>> Especially at lower revs play causes false air taken into the carb, with bad low speed driving as a result. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> Hans >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Van: Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] >>>> Verzonden: vrijdag 14 juni 2019 0:21 >>>> Aan: Richard Lindsay >>>> CC: Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List >>>> Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Silly error. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of float chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of compressed air on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the passage. If not, we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, with its side panels diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult. >>>> >>>> It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as easy as in TD. >>>> >>>> Fuel, air, spark?we are working to get them all in proper proportion. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> >>>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay wrote: >>>> >>>> Keep cleaning Bob. :-) >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: >>>> >>>> Good on both of you. >>>> >>>> Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. >>>> >>>> Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. >>>> >>>> The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional filter-none had any grit or sediment. >>>> >>>> Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. >>>> >>>> Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day yesterday. >>>> >>>> Bob >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote: >>>> >>>> Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. >>>> >>>> I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps around the shop and all was still well. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Rick >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: >>>> >>>> Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. >>>> >>>> Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. >>>> >>>> A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of the radiator pipe. >>>> >>>> Nut with a dry result! >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. >>>> >>>> Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. >>>> >>>> Then the GT should be roadworthy again. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Cheers, >>>> >>>> Hans >>>> >>>> 71 BGT NRG - >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs >>>> Verzonden: woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 >>>> Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List >>>> Onderwerp: [Mgs] Silly error. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Hi Friends, >>>> >>>> My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story. >>>> >>>> When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. >>>> >>>> I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Rick >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Virusvrij. www.avast.com >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com >>>> > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 07:00:51 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 08:00:51 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. In-Reply-To: References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> <004001d52281$0c12ec70$2438c550$@planet.nl> Message-ID: Well done Bob. Yes, I have had the Pertronix pickup in cars too and it does wonders BUT, it does not solve the worn distributor problem that affects timing instability. That problem requires a distributor rebuild with new parts, or a replacement with the whole Pertronix distributor. I chose the later to kill two birds with one stone. Just my experience, not a condemnation of anyone else's. A correct, healthy OEM distributor also works just fine, and is 'correct'. ( I put my concours judge hat on for that last sentence. :-) Rick On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 7:49 AM Robert's New iPad wrote: > The owner said that it was running well when put away last fall. I don?t > know the status of his distributor, so will do the tests you suggested. TF > distributor access is not as convenient as TD, so he could well have > forgotten the oiling locations in it. > That?s a good DPO story about the Biro spring found in GT6. > Several in our club have bought the Pertronix distributors and say they > work well. It was the little Pertronix unit that I installed in my MGB when > its shaft bushings were worn, and that the owner has in this TF. > The owner?s commitments keep him from working on the problem until > Sunday. I am eager to get the engine running, as this is a nicely done car. > Bob > > > On Jun 14, 2019, at 8:38 AM, Richard Lindsay > wrote: > > I wrote earlier but will repeat it here. Put your timing light on the > #1 plug wire and observe the timing mark. Is it steady at idle? If not, the > problem is probably in your distributor. When I rebuilt the distributor in > my GT6, I discovered that someone had replaced one of the advance springs > with a modified ball point pen (biro) spring! But even with new correct > springs, the idle timing jumped around. > I verified that the distributor shaft bushings were not worn. That is, > no shaft wobble. However, the pivot shafts and holes in the advance > mechanism were worn, allowing the weights to move on their own, and thus > the timing, but only at idle. Once spun up against the stops, the timing > was constant. > I found the same wear problem in both my TR3b and TD! Pertronix > distributors fixed the problem and let me set a smooth, constant slow idle. > The OEM distributors are boxed up for the next owners. > > Rick > > On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 7:24 AM Robert's New iPad wrote: > >> Thanks for this idea, and for introducing Laboratory Grease. Unknown >> to me, I found it on Amazon for $6.75 the one ounce container. That will >> be a handy addition to the first-aid kit I keep. >> Fortunately, this engine?s carb shafts are snug. Carbs were rebuilt 10 >> years, 2500 miles ago, so the problem is not their shafts. >> I look forward to spending some time with it this weekend. >> Bob >> >> >> On Jun 14, 2019, at 7:52 AM, Richard Lindsay >> wrote: >> >> Hans wrote, >> >> > When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts. >> >> So important. Here's a trick, a Bandaid or plaster if you will, to get >> you by if costly rebuilds are not an option. Fixing worn throttle shaft >> bores with new bushings is a serious repair, and the correct way to fix the >> vacuum leak. However, the following short term solution is to address the >> symptom, not the problem. >> >> Disassemble all the linkage at the carburetors. Purchase a few felt >> washers the size of the throttle shafts or a little smaller, and a tube of >> laboratory vacuum grease, the stuff they use to seal vacuum leaks in >> laboratory glassware. Saturate the felt washers with vacuum grease as well >> as the shafts where they exit the carb body and slide the greased washers >> up against the body. Place a flat washer on the shaft and reassemble the >> linkage, pressing the flat washer gently against the felt washer. The flat >> washer and linkage will hold the greased felt washer in place and the >> vacuum grease will seal the vacuum leak! >> >> Vacuum grease is made to withstand a bit of heat but also, to not >> 'migrate'. It will stay in place rather than get sucked into the carb's >> choke like regular grease would do (once hot). The felt washer also helps. >> >> Yes, this is a temporary fix, not a proper repair. But it is also a >> $10 temporary fix, not a $500 repair. >> >> A final word. Take care to reinstall the air chamber covers correctly >> (Not interchanged!) and verify that the air pistons drop freely on to the >> bridge with the dampers removed. Tighten the cover screws evenly working >> around the carb until they are snug. >> >> Good luck! You're on the right track. >> >> >> Rick >> On Fri, Jun 14, 2019, 2:16 AM Hans Duinhoven >> wrote: >> >>> Good show Bob! >>> >>> When checking the carbs, also verify any play on the butterfly shafts. >>> >>> Especially at lower revs play causes false air taken into the carb, with >>> bad low speed driving as a result. >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Hans >>> >>> >>> >>> *Van:* Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] >>> *Verzonden:* vrijdag 14 juni 2019 0:21 >>> *Aan:* Richard Lindsay >>> *CC:* Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List >>> *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] Silly error. >>> >>> >>> >>> Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of >>> float chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of >>> compressed air on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the >>> passage. If not, we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, >>> with its side panels diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult. >>> >>> It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, >>> after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it >>> improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent >>> the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the >>> engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the >>> distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% >>> sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as >>> easy as in TD. >>> >>> Fuel, air, spark?we are working to get them all in proper proportion. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay >>> wrote: >>> >>> Keep cleaning Bob. :-) >>> >>> >>> >>> My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed >>> issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran >>> fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. >>> >>> >>> >>> So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. >>> >>> >>> >>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad >>> wrote: >>> >>> Good on both of you. >>> >>> Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a >>> friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, >>> sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. >>> >>> Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. >>> One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of >>> that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. >>> >>> The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far >>> larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump >>> filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen >>> filter in the tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and >>> additional filter-none had any grit or sediment. >>> >>> Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. >>> >>> Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment >>> is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day >>> yesterday. >>> >>> Bob >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs >>> wrote: >>> >>> Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in >>> two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the >>> engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. >>> >>> I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A >>> couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few >>> laps around the shop and all was still well. >>> >>> >>> >>> Rick >>> >>> >>> >>> On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven >>> wrote: >>> >>> Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. >>> >>> Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to >>> replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. >>> >>> A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom >>> of the radiator pipe. >>> >>> Nut with a dry result! >>> >>> >>> >>> Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal >>> particles. >>> >>> Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. >>> >>> Then the GT should be roadworthy again. >>> >>> >>> >>> Cheers, >>> >>> Hans >>> >>> 71 BGT NRG - >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *Namens *Richard Lindsay >>> via Mgs >>> *Verzonden:* woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 >>> *Aan:* mgs at autox.team.net List >>> *Onderwerp:* [Mgs] Silly error. >>> >>> >>> >>> Hi Friends, >>> >>> My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the >>> issue is universal. Here's the short story. >>> >>> When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a >>> hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to >>> the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded >>> hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. >>> >>> I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and >>> place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully >>> completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on >>> my MG TD. >>> >>> >>> >>> Rick >>> >>> >>> >>> [image: Afbeelding verwijderd door afzender.] >>> >>> >>> Virusvrij. www.avast.com >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com >>> >>> > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri Jun 14 06:40:10 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 13:40:10 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> <004001d52281$0c12ec70$2438c550$@planet.nl> <140AFB3A-5AB4-465A-A166-8F8318D943B6@gmail.com> Message-ID: <15F664931AC445109B862EF5D3901775@paul> The dampers would normally resist upward movement, but there is a bit of lost motion in the damper piston where it allows the piston to rise easily a very small amount before the damper starts acting. I've found this effect is greater in my HIFs than the HSs. If you mean cylinder head valves sticking I'd expect that to be more noticeable from the exhaust and intake sound. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- Something I did not mention before was that, at 3000 RPM in the driveway, both SU carb pistons flutter rapidly up and down. Might this suggest a sticking valve or two? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Fri Jun 14 07:23:05 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 14:23:05 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> <004001d52281$0c12ec70$2438c550$@planet.nl> Message-ID: <96A04361E2C3444087E085840DA9B782@paul> Wear in the timing chain, gears and distributor drive gear as well as inside the distributor itself will all contribute to timing jitter. But it would have to be very bad to affect performance significantly. PaulH. ----- Original Message ----- I wrote earlier but will repeat it here. Put your timing light on the #1 plug wire and observe the timing mark. Is it steady at idle? If not, the problem is probably in your distributor. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eyera3000 at gmail.com Fri Jun 14 09:49:09 2019 From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs) Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2019 08:49:09 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] Silly error. P.S. In-Reply-To: <004601d52281$d1591720$740b4560$@planet.nl> References: <004601d52281$d1591720$740b4560$@planet.nl> Message-ID: not necessarily in BH. He is a re seller and car scan be from all over the place. I would be careful buying from these guys without having someone inspect the car first Ira Erbs Portland,OR _______ _______ (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______) (_________________________) BT7 engine and disk brakes 1967 MGB [image: MG] A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words On Fri, Jun 14, 2019 at 12:21 AM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: > Talking about a TF: > > I was offered a nice looking TF yesterday, but it?s in Beverly Hills, > which is quite far from The Netherlands? > > https://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1955-mg-tf-right-hand-drive-c-9316.htm > > > > Cheers, > > Hans > > 71 BGT NRG > > > > *Van:* Robert's New iPad [mailto:mgbobh at gmail.com] > *Verzonden:* vrijdag 14 juni 2019 0:21 > *Aan:* Richard Lindsay > *CC:* Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List > *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] Silly error. > > > > Sunday afternoon is our project day. I want to remove the tops of float > chambers again, the covers and pistons, and to try a bit of compressed air > on the jet to see if that will dislodge anything in the passage. If not, > we can drop the jets out, but that is awkward on a TF, with its side panels > diabolically placed to make any carb work difficult. > > It was this same friend who talked me into a Pertronix for my MGB, > after he had installed them in this TF and his MGA. I did, and it > improved the inaccurate timing quite a bit. A couple of years later, I sent > the distributor to Advanced Distributors. Jeff wanted to know about the > engine, its compression, camshaft, porting, polishing, etc, then curved the > distributor to fit. This engine runs very well now. Though he is not 100% > sold on the Pertronix, I keep it because setting dwell of the MGB is not as > easy as in TD. > > Fuel, air, spark?we are working to get them all in proper proportion. > > Bob > > > On Jun 13, 2019, at 4:12 PM, Richard Lindsay > wrote: > > Keep cleaning Bob. :-) > > > > My TD and TR3b both had idle instability problems AND the higher speed > issues. I ended up putting Pertronix distributors in both cars and they ran > fantastic! The slow idle was perfect. > > > > So check the timing with a timing light to see if it is stable. > > > > On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 1:51 PM Robert's New iPad wrote: > > Good on both of you. > > Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a > friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, > sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. > > Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One > had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of > that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. > > The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger > than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the > additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the > tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional > filter-none had any grit or sediment. > > Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. > > Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is > in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day > yesterday. > > Bob > > > > > On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs > wrote: > > Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in > two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the > engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. > > I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple > of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps > around the shop and all was still well. > > > > Rick > > > > On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven > wrote: > > Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. > > Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to > replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. > > A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of > the radiator pipe. > > Nut with a dry result! > > > > Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. > > Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. > > Then the GT should be roadworthy again. > > > > Cheers, > > Hans > > 71 BGT NRG - > > > > > > > > *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *Namens *Richard Lindsay > via Mgs > *Verzonden:* woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 > *Aan:* mgs at autox.team.net List > *Onderwerp:* [Mgs] Silly error. > > > > Hi Friends, > > My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue > is universal. Here's the short story. > > When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry > and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the > head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded > hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. > > I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place > fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes > the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. > > > > Rick > > > > [image: Afbeelding verwijderd door afzender.] > > > Virusvrij. www.avast.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: image001.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 350 bytes Desc: not available URL: From h.duinhoven at planet.nl Sat Jun 15 07:18:14 2019 From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 15:18:14 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] FW: Silly error. References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> Message-ID: <007201d5237c$c9c5d4c0$5d517e40$@planet.nl> Yesterday spent on replacing the old hydraulic fluids. Our son helped well and the result is great. Even though I use DOT5, regular renewals are needed it is proved. Someway dirt contaminates into the master and slave cylinders. So at the end of the day I tried to start, but the battery was flat. Reloading for a few hours helped, but I think the battery has had its best days? We took the GT for a run in the sunny evening and the car behaved great! Clutch goes very easy and brakes are firm and good. A joy to drive again. I even touched top speed for a short while ? took a little effort to reach to the 100 m/h, so it seems the car?s in a good again, except a poor battery, but that will be an easy fix. As it is father?s day tomorrow our son will perform a detail polish job on the outer parts, so the GT will be a very presentable car again. Cheers, Hans ?71 BGT NRG Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Robert's New iPad via Mgs Verzonden: donderdag 13 juni 2019 20:51 Aan: Richard Lindsay CC: Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Silly error. Good on both of you. Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional filter-none had any grit or sediment. Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day yesterday. Bob On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote: Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps around the shop and all was still well. Rick On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven wrote: Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of the radiator pipe. Nut with a dry result! Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. Then the GT should be roadworthy again. Cheers, Hans 71 BGT NRG - Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs Verzonden: woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List Onderwerp: [Mgs] Silly error. Hi Friends, My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue is universal. Here's the short story. When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. Rick Virusvrij. www.avast.com _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com --- Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dan.dibiase at gmail.com Sat Jun 15 07:40:06 2019 From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase) Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2019 09:40:06 -0400 Subject: [Mgs] FW: Silly error. In-Reply-To: <007201d5237c$c9c5d4c0$5d517e40$@planet.nl> References: <001b01d521f8$56375310$02a5f930$@planet.nl> <3AD5BAA8-DB43-4359-99F7-4B86D0374915@gmail.com> <007201d5237c$c9c5d4c0$5d517e40$@planet.nl> Message-ID: Sounds good, Hans - Happy Fathers Day to you and all! Dan D Central NJ USA On Sat, Jun 15, 2019 at 9:18 AM Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote: > Yesterday spent on replacing the old hydraulic fluids. > > Our son helped well and the result is great. > > Even though I use DOT5, regular renewals are needed it is proved. > > Someway dirt contaminates into the master and slave cylinders. > > > > So at the end of the day I tried to start, but the battery was flat. > > Reloading for a few hours helped, but I think the battery has had its best > days? > > > > We took the GT for a run in the sunny evening and the car behaved great! > > Clutch goes very easy and brakes are firm and good. > > A joy to drive again. I even touched top speed for a short while ? took a > little effort to reach to the 100 m/h, so it seems the car?s in a good > again, except a poor battery, but that will be an easy fix. > > > > As it is father?s day tomorrow our son will perform a detail polish job on > the outer parts, so the GT will be a very presentable car again. > > > > Cheers, > > Hans > > ?71 BGT NRG > > > > > > *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *Namens *Robert's New iPad > via Mgs > *Verzonden:* donderdag 13 juni 2019 20:51 > *Aan:* Richard Lindsay > *CC:* Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net List > *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] Silly error. > > > > Good on both of you. > > Yesterday was an interesting day for me. Went out as passenger with a > friend in his TF, stored a year or so. It ran out of go at 2500 rpm, > sputtering, bucking, etc, but would smooth out at 2000. > > Back at the garage, found the strangest stuff in the float chambers. One > had a teaspoon of large chunks of solid material. The other had some of > that, plus a goo that looked like frog-egg liquid. > > The goo was easy enough to figure out, but as the chunks are far larger > than would pass through the SU carb banjo filters, the SU pump filter, the > additional filter he has in line, and the original screen filter in the > tank, it was a puzzle. We could check banjo, pump and additional > filter-none had any grit or sediment. > > Pump delivers the pint/minute quantity that workshop manual says. > > Engine runs better, but not much. I suspect that some of the sediment is > in the passage from float chamber to the jet, but we ran out of day > yesterday. > > Bob > > > > > On Jun 13, 2019, at 1:49 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs > wrote: > > Good work Hans! I too had a successful day at the shop. I replaced in > two bolts in the waterpump housing and the leak is gone! We brought the > engine up to temperature with (up to) 13# coolant pressure, and no leaks. > > I also found a small fuel leak at the intake of the fuel pump. A couple > of spannet twists put that right and dry. With that, we made a few laps > around the shop and all was still well. > > > > Rick > > > > On Thu, Jun 13, 2019, 9:58 AM Hans Duinhoven > wrote: > > Funny ? I solved coolant issues earlier and yesterday. > > Had to replace the thermostat housing gasket and yesterday I had to > replace the hose connecting the bottom radiator pipe to the waterpump. > > A horrible job to do, as there is almost no space to work at the bottom of > the radiator pipe. > > Nut with a dry result! > > > > Fully cleaned a clogged charcoal filter and renewed the charcoal particles. > > Replaced the oil filler cap and will renew the brake fluid tomorrow. > > Then the GT should be roadworthy again. > > > > Cheers, > > Hans > > 71 BGT NRG - > > > > > > > > *Van:* Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *Namens *Richard Lindsay > via Mgs > *Verzonden:* woensdag 12 juni 2019 18:51 > *Aan:* mgs at autox.team.net List > *Onderwerp:* [Mgs] Silly error. > > > > Hi Friends, > > My TR6 rebuilt engine leaks coolant. Okay, its not an MG but the issue > is universal. Here's the short story. > > When reassembling the waterpump I made a newbie error. I got in a hurry > and left out two bolts, some of the bolts that hold the pump body to the > head. The coolant leak is through one of those bolt holes. The threaded > hole drilling entered the head's water jacket and of course, leaks. > > I now have new bolts and I will apply sealant to the threads and place > fiber sealing washers under the bolt heads. Doing so hopefully completes > the engine rebuild. I can then get back to replacing the top on my MG TD. > > > > Rick > > > > > > > Virusvrij. www.avast.com > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com > -- http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dave at ranteer.com Mon Jun 17 15:19:24 2019 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:19:24 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil Message-ID: <001d01d52552$56abbfe0$04033fa0$@ranteer.com> I've been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several years now, and it used to be immediately available from Amazon with free shipping. It has zddp. Now its 1 to 2 months. However - Advanced Auto Parts - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-vr1-racing-20w-50-full-synthet ic-motor-oil-1-quart-679082/10069836-P?searchTerm=valvoline+20w-50+full+synt hetic free shipping with a minimum order of $25, which is 3 quarts. You can buy it any number of quarts (from Amazon it's a 6 pack), and it's a couple pennies cheaper!!! -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From palte at gmx.net Mon Jun 17 15:47:25 2019 From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 23:47:25 +0200 Subject: [Mgs] oil Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Jun 17 16:06:25 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 15:06:25 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <303432D7-3DF9-4BB4-8756-DDBF441460C0@sonic.net> Threads on oil can be endless. But synthetic vs non-synthetic is not the critical factor (depending on the history of your engine). The important thing is that it provide sufficient zinc and phosphorus (AKA ZDDP) to protect the lifters/tappets/cam followers in pre-smog-era MGs. All modern oils designed for use with catalytic converters do not provide adequate ZDDP (it clogs converters). You have to specifically select a compatible oil. Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is one (although it may be non-optimal for other reasons, such as lack of detergent) Mobil1 Synthetic 15W50 (this weight ONLY in this brand) Certain weights from Kendall, Royal Purple, Gibbs Note that many people got into the habit of using diesel grade oils for this reason. But now that diesel emissions are under tighter control, these oils have also been stripped of ZDDP. Read the spec sheets if you are concerned. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jun 17, 2019, at 2:47 PM, Bert Palte via Mgs wrote: > > Yes, also over here in Europe it has become less easily available. > If nothing else is available, 10W40 will do. > I use mineral oil. That is good enough, our cars aren't high tech! > > Bert > 70 B > SA4BRL > PA0LPS > -- > Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity. > On 2019-06-17, 23:19 dave via Mgs > wrote: > I?ve been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several years now, and it used to be immediately available from Amazon with free shipping. It has zddp. > > > Now its 1 to 2 months. > > > However ? Advanced Auto Parts - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-vr1-racing-20w-50-full-synthetic-motor-oil-1-quart-679082/10069836-P?searchTerm=valvoline+20w-50+full+synthetic > > > free shipping with a minimum order of $25, which is 3 quarts. You can buy it any number of quarts (from Amazon it?s a 6 pack), and it?s a couple pennies cheaper!!! > > > _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From richardolindsay at gmail.com Mon Jun 17 16:33:30 2019 From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 17:33:30 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil In-Reply-To: <001d01d52552$56abbfe0$04033fa0$@ranteer.com> References: <001d01d52552$56abbfe0$04033fa0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: I guess I'm just an old school fool, but I don't drive my LBCs much. I use Castrol GTX 20W50 in my TR6, TD and E-Type. On Mon, Jun 17, 2019, 4:19 PM dave via Mgs wrote: > I?ve been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several years now, and > it used to be immediately available from Amazon with free shipping. It has > zddp. > > > > Now its 1 to 2 months. > > > > However ? Advanced Auto Parts - > https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-vr1-racing-20w-50-full-synthetic-motor-oil-1-quart-679082/10069836-P?searchTerm=valvoline+20w-50+full+synthetic > > > > free shipping with a minimum order of $25, which is 3 quarts. You can buy > it any number of quarts (from Amazon it?s a 6 pack), and it?s a couple > pennies cheaper!!! > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dcouncill at karamursel.org Mon Jun 17 17:13:32 2019 From: dcouncill at karamursel.org (David Councill) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:13:32 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] oil In-Reply-To: References: <001d01d52552$56abbfe0$04033fa0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: <06d801d52562$48f50ea0$dadf2be0$@karamursel.org> I was using the Valvoline VR1 racing oil ? but being in a rural town, I have to have NAPA order it in and then I pick it up a few days later. But then my son was telling me to use the ?classic car motor oil? that he was ordering off the Internet. The price with shipping was about the same as I was paying for the Valvoline (after our high sales tax is added in) and it gets delivered to the door. The oil is from an Indiana oil company but now appears to be sold through the Indiana Classic Car Club of America. It?s a little thinner at 15W-40 but seems to work and leak just as good as the Valvoline ?http://www.classiccarmotoroil.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Mon Jun 17 17:28:50 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 16:28:50 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] oil In-Reply-To: References: <001d01d52552$56abbfe0$04033fa0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Yeah, I used it for years. But then back around the early 2000s I had to replace the cam. All the lobes were scored, and the lifters spalled. That?s when I started hearing about zinc and the absence of same. Somewhere between being rated ?SG? and ?SM? all the zinc went away. It took me a while to find a good high zinc oil that was locally available. I replaced the lifters again last fall, as a precaution, since I had the head off anyway. One was just starting to show spots. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jun 17, 2019, at 3:33 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote: > > I guess I'm just an old school fool, but I don't drive my LBCs much. I use Castrol GTX 20W50 in my TR6, TD and E-Type. > > On Mon, Jun 17, 2019, 4:19 PM dave via Mgs > wrote: > I?ve been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several years now, and it used to be immediately available from Amazon with free shipping. It has zddp. > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com Mon Jun 17 23:45:47 2019 From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews) Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2019 22:45:47 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] oil In-Reply-To: References: <001d01d52552$56abbfe0$04033fa0$@ranteer.com> Message-ID: Max, The composition of the oil is dependent on the weight. The specifications allow more zinc and phosphorus in the heavier oils. That's why you can get SG rated oil with plenty of Zinc and Phosphorus. I suspect the most important parameter when buying oil for your MG is to ensure is is 20W/50. As you are in the Bay Area, I suspect you can buy Amsoil 20W/50, which is SG rated, but marketed as having high Zinc and especially suitable for flat tappet engines. Simon On Mon, Jun 17, 2019 at 4:28 PM Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > Yeah, I used it for years. But then back around the early 2000s I had to replace the cam. All the lobes were scored, and the lifters spalled. That?s when I started hearing about zinc and the absence of same. Somewhere between being rated ?SG? and ?SM? all the zinc went away. It took me a while to find a good high zinc oil that was locally available. > > I replaced the lifters again last fall, as a precaution, since I had the head off anyway. One was just starting to show spots. > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > On Jun 17, 2019, at 3:33 PM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote: > > I guess I'm just an old school fool, but I don't drive my LBCs much. I use Castrol GTX 20W50 in my TR6, TD and E-Type. > > On Mon, Jun 17, 2019, 4:19 PM dave via Mgs wrote: >> >> I?ve been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several years now, and it used to be immediately available from Amazon with free shipping. It has zddp. >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com Tue Jun 18 01:51:24 2019 From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73) Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2019 08:51:24 +0100 Subject: [Mgs] oil References: <303432D7-3DF9-4BB4-8756-DDBF441460C0@sonic.net> Message-ID: <31E3F3AA6226455B99999AB49E84A273@paul> >From my reading of spec sheets of oil available to me in the UK modern oils (including for Diesel) have had their ZDDP reduced over time as much for environmental reasons as for damage to catalysts, but then so have some 'classic' 20W/50 formulations. ZDDP content is what the manufacturer chooses to put in, so you can't say that any weight or API rating is automatically going to have a particular content. For example a few years ago Castrol XL 20W/50 SE was showing 800ppm, whereas GTX 15W/40 SL showed 1035, and GTX Diesel 15W/40 1200. For classics they recommended their Syntec 20W/50 at 1200, whereas claims elsewhere said that their GTX 20W/50 would always be 1300-140ppm. Mobil 1 Fuel Economy 0W/30 quoted 1000 whereas their Super 3000 Formula R 5W/30 showed 500. I've also seen a letter purporting to be a letter from Royal Purple stating that RP XPR 10W40 has over 1500-1600 ppm of ZDDP and "we could take all of the ZDDP out of our engine oils and still have 4 times the wear resistance of even the VR-1 oil due to our Synerlec additive technology". At the moment over here the highest concentration seems to be Classic Oils Heritage 20W/50 at 1300ppm https://www.classic-oils.net/Classic-Oils-Heritage-20W50 A friend has personal experience of a new cam and tappets being wrecked in just 20k on a semi-synthetic 15W/40 SL, but from other things I have read really old classifications such as SB never had that much to begin with, and engines didn't suffer damage. So I suspect the problem with rebuilt engines is as much to do with poorer quality components these days as anything else. But as I say that's the situation over here, and as someone else said this discussion could go on for ever. PaulH. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Wed Jun 19 09:37:33 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 10:37:33 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil In-Reply-To: <303432D7-3DF9-4BB4-8756-DDBF441460C0@sonic.net> References: <303432D7-3DF9-4BB4-8756-DDBF441460C0@sonic.net> Message-ID: <610104c0-5505-6e3a-cb03-7e1dad0e9ec8@twc.com> VR1 contains an additive package. I would hope there's a detergent in it, because it's what I'm using. ? Viz: https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq CR On 6/17/2019 5:06 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > > Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is one (although it may be non-optimal for > other reasons, such as lack of detergent) > Mobil1 Synthetic 15W50 (this weight ONLY in this brand) > Certain weights from Kendall, Royal Purple, Gibbs > > > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > >> On Jun 17, 2019, at 2:47 PM, Bert Palte via Mgs > > wrote: >> >> Yes, also over here in Europe it has become less easily available. >> If nothing else is available, 10W40 will do. >> I use mineral oil. That is good enough, our cars aren't high tech! >> >> Bert >> 70 B >> SA4BRL >> PA0LPS >> -- >> Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity. >> On 2019-06-17, 23:19 dave via Mgs > > wrote: >> >> I?ve been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several years >> now, and it used to be immediately available from Amazon with >> free shipping.? It has zddp. >> >> >> Now its 1 to 2 months. >> >> >> However ? Advanced Auto Parts >> -https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-vr1-racing-20w-50-full-synthetic-motor-oil-1-quart-679082/10069836-P?searchTerm=valvoline+20w-50+full+synthetic >> >> >> free shipping with a minimum order of $25, which is 3 quarts.? >> You can buy it any number of quarts (from Amazon it?s a 6 pack), >> and it?s a couple pennies cheaper!!! >> >> >> _______________________________________________Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested >> annual donation $12.75 >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgshttp://autox.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >> >> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgshttp://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Wed Jun 19 10:27:09 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 09:27:09 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] oil In-Reply-To: <610104c0-5505-6e3a-cb03-7e1dad0e9ec8@twc.com> References: <303432D7-3DF9-4BB4-8756-DDBF441460C0@sonic.net> <610104c0-5505-6e3a-cb03-7e1dad0e9ec8@twc.com> Message-ID: Quote from the first paragraph of the FAQ: The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils. So, that answers that question. If you change your oil frequently, it probably isn?t a problem, though. I have used racing oil in the transmission, however, because reduced friction and wear protection are relevant concepts, and detergent is pointless (since no combustion blow-by). -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jun 19, 2019, at 8:37 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: > > VR1 contains an additive package. I would hope there's a detergent in it, because it's what I'm using. > Viz: https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq > > CR > > On 6/17/2019 5:06 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >> >> Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is one (although it may be non-optimal for other reasons, such as lack of detergent) >> Mobil1 Synthetic 15W50 (this weight ONLY in this brand) >> Certain weights from Kendall, Royal Purple, Gibbs >> >> >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB >> >>> On Jun 17, 2019, at 2:47 PM, Bert Palte via Mgs > wrote: >>> >>> Yes, also over here in Europe it has become less easily available. >>> If nothing else is available, 10W40 will do. >>> I use mineral oil. That is good enough, our cars aren't high tech! >>> >>> Bert >>> 70 B >>> SA4BRL >>> PA0LPS >>> -- >>> Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity. >>> On 2019-06-17, 23:19 dave via Mgs > wrote: >>> I?ve been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several years now, and it used to be immediately available from Amazon with free shipping. It has zddp. >>> >>> >>> Now its 1 to 2 months. >>> >>> >>> However ? Advanced Auto Parts - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-vr1-racing-20w-50-full-synthetic-motor-oil-1-quart-679082/10069836-P?searchTerm=valvoline+20w-50+full+synthetic >>> >>> >>> free shipping with a minimum order of $25, which is 3 quarts. You can buy it any number of quarts (from Amazon it?s a 6 pack), and it?s a couple pennies cheaper!!! >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From Charley38 at twc.com Wed Jun 19 10:38:31 2019 From: Charley38 at twc.com (Charley Robinson) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 11:38:31 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] oil In-Reply-To: References: <303432D7-3DF9-4BB4-8756-DDBF441460C0@sonic.net> <610104c0-5505-6e3a-cb03-7e1dad0e9ec8@twc.com> Message-ID: Okay but you said "lack of detergents" and to me that says no detergents because it's the most common usage of the word. CR On 6/19/2019 11:27 AM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: > Quote from the first paragraph of the FAQ: > > The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils > ?not intended for > passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased > horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear > protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include > _fewer detergents_ than regular conventional motor oils. > > So, that answers that question. If you change your oil frequently, it > probably isn?t a problem, though. > > I have used racing oil in the transmission, however, because reduced > friction and wear protection are relevant concepts, and detergent is > pointless (since no combustion blow-by). > > > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > >> On Jun 19, 2019, at 8:37 AM, Charley Robinson > > wrote: >> >> VR1 contains an additive package. I would hope there's a detergent in >> it, because it's what I'm using. >> ? Viz: https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq >> >> CR >> >> On 6/17/2019 5:06 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >>> >>> Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is one (although it may be non-optimal for >>> other reasons, such as lack of detergent) >>> Mobil1 Synthetic 15W50 (this weight ONLY in this brand) >>> Certain weights from Kendall, Royal Purple, Gibbs >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Max Heim >>> '66 MGB >>> >>>> On Jun 17, 2019, at 2:47 PM, Bert Palte via Mgs >>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> Yes, also over here in Europe it has become less easily available. >>>> If nothing else is available, 10W40 will do. >>>> I use mineral oil. That is good enough, our cars aren't high tech! >>>> >>>> Bert >>>> 70 B >>>> SA4BRL >>>> PA0LPS >>>> -- >>>> Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity. >>>> On 2019-06-17, 23:19 dave via Mgs >>> > wrote: >>>> >>>> I?ve been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several >>>> years now, and it used to be immediately available from Amazon >>>> with free shipping.? It has zddp. >>>> >>>> >>>> Now its 1 to 2 months. >>>> >>>> >>>> However ? Advanced Auto Parts >>>> -https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-vr1-racing-20w-50-full-synthetic-motor-oil-1-quart-679082/10069836-P?searchTerm=valvoline+20w-50+full+synthetic >>>> >>>> >>>> free shipping with a minimum order of $25, which is 3 quarts.? >>>> You can buy it any number of quarts (from Amazon it?s a 6 >>>> pack), and it?s a couple pennies cheaper!!! >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________Mgs at autox.team.net >>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested >>>> annual donation $12.75 >>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgshttp://autox.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgshttp://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >> > > > _______________________________________________ > > Mgs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mvheim at sonic.net Wed Jun 19 10:52:35 2019 From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 09:52:35 -0700 Subject: [Mgs] oil In-Reply-To: References: <303432D7-3DF9-4BB4-8756-DDBF441460C0@sonic.net> <610104c0-5505-6e3a-cb03-7e1dad0e9ec8@twc.com> Message-ID: <65B445D1-4923-408C-AED7-C450F29F6153@sonic.net> I don't want to quibble, but I think ?less than expected? or ?insufficient? are also perfectly valid meanings. If I lack money to pay my bills, that doesn?t mean I have absolutely zero money to my name. I just don't have enough. I would say that the ?not intended for passenger vehicles? part of the quote justifies my ?insufficient? assumption. What else could it be referring to? ?Too much? anti-friction or anti-wear? Hardly. Again, I wasn?t actually criiticizing the idea of using this oil. Lower level of detergent isn?t an engine-killer, if you change the oil regularly. I just know that a lot of people drive their vintage cars infrequently and irregularly, and may not change the oil all that often, so I would hesitate to recommend it as the first option, since there are other alternatives available. -- Max Heim '66 MGB > On Jun 19, 2019, at 9:38 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: > > Okay but you said "lack of detergents" and to me that says no detergents because it's the most common usage of the word. > > CR > > On 6/19/2019 11:27 AM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >> Quote from the first paragraph of the FAQ: >> >> The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils. >> >> So, that answers that question. If you change your oil frequently, it probably isn?t a problem, though. >> >> I have used racing oil in the transmission, however, because reduced friction and wear protection are relevant concepts, and detergent is pointless (since no combustion blow-by). >> >> >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB >> >> >>> On Jun 19, 2019, at 8:37 AM, Charley Robinson > wrote: >>> >>> VR1 contains an additive package. I would hope there's a detergent in it, because it's what I'm using. >>> Viz: https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq >>> >>> CR >>> >>> On 6/17/2019 5:06 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >>>> >>>> Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is one (although it may be non-optimal for other reasons, such as lack of detergent) >>>> Mobil1 Synthetic 15W50 (this weight ONLY in this brand) >>>> Certain weights from Kendall, Royal Purple, Gibbs >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Max Heim >>>> '66 MGB >>>> >>>>> On Jun 17, 2019, at 2:47 PM, Bert Palte via Mgs > wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Yes, also over here in Europe it has become less easily available. >>>>> If nothing else is available, 10W40 will do. >>>>> I use mineral oil. That is good enough, our cars aren't high tech! >>>>> >>>>> Bert >>>>> 70 B >>>>> SA4BRL >>>>> PA0LPS >>>>> -- >>>>> Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity. >>>>> On 2019-06-17, 23:19 dave via Mgs > wrote: >>>>> I?ve been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several years now, and it used to be immediately available from Amazon with free shipping. It has zddp. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Now its 1 to 2 months. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> However ? Advanced Auto Parts - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-vr1-racing-20w-50-full-synthetic-motor-oil-1-quart-679082/10069836-P?searchTerm=valvoline+20w-50+full+synthetic >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> free shipping with a minimum order of $25, which is 3 quarts. You can buy it any number of quarts (from Amazon it?s a 6 pack), and it?s a couple pennies cheaper!!! >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net _______________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >>> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From harlanjillson at earthlink.net Wed Jun 19 15:13:05 2019 From: harlanjillson at earthlink.net (Harlan Jillson) Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 16:13:05 -0500 Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 145, Issue 12 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I believe the ?not intended for passenger cars? is because of the added friction reducers, which play havoc with catalytic converters. Harlan Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 19, 2019, at 1:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to > mgs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > mgs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > mgs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: oil (Charley Robinson) > 2. Re: oil (Max Heim) > 3. Re: oil (Charley Robinson) > 4. Re: oil (Max Heim) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 10:37:33 -0500 > From: Charley Robinson > To: Max Heim , MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil > Message-ID: <610104c0-5505-6e3a-cb03-7e1dad0e9ec8 at twc.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > Send Mgs mailing list submissions to > mgs at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > mgs-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > mgs-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..." > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: oil (Charley Robinson) > 2. Re: oil (Max Heim) > 3. Re: oil (Charley Robinson) > 4. Re: oil (Max Heim) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 10:37:33 -0500 > From: Charley Robinson > To: Max Heim , MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil > Message-ID: <610104c0-5505-6e3a-cb03-7e1dad0e9ec8 at twc.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > VR1 contains an additive package. I would hope there's a detergent in > it, because it's what I'm using. > ? Viz: https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq > > CR > >> On 6/17/2019 5:06 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >> >> Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is one (although it may be non-optimal for >> other reasons, such as lack of detergent) >> Mobil1 Synthetic 15W50 (this weight ONLY in this brand) >> Certain weights from Kendall, Royal Purple, Gibbs >> >> >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB >> >>> On Jun 17, 2019, at 2:47 PM, Bert Palte via Mgs >> > wrote: >>> >>> Yes, also over here in Europe it has become less easily available. >>> If nothing else is available, 10W40 will do. >>> I use mineral oil. That is good enough, our cars aren't high tech! >>> >>> Bert >>> 70 B >>> SA4BRL >>> PA0LPS >>> -- >>> Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity. >>> On 2019-06-17, 23:19 dave via Mgs >> > wrote: >>> >>> I?ve been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several years >>> now, and it used to be immediately available from Amazon with >>> free shipping.? It has zddp. >>> >>> >>> Now its 1 to 2 months. >>> >>> >>> However ? Advanced Auto Parts >>> -https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-vr1-racing-20w-50-full-synthetic-motor-oil-1-quart-679082/10069836-P?searchTerm=valvoline+20w-50+full+synthetic >>> >>> >>> free shipping with a minimum order of $25, which is 3 quarts.? >>> You can buy it any number of quarts (from Amazon it?s a 6 pack), >>> and it?s a couple pennies cheaper!!! >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested >>> annual donation $12.75 >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgshttp://autox.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>> >>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgshttp://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 09:27:09 -0700 > From: Max Heim > To: MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Quote from the first paragraph of the FAQ: > > The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils. > > So, that answers that question. If you change your oil frequently, it probably isn?t a problem, though. > > I have used racing oil in the transmission, however, because reduced friction and wear protection are relevant concepts, and detergent is pointless (since no combustion blow-by). > > > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > > >> On Jun 19, 2019, at 8:37 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: >> >> VR1 contains an additive package. I would hope there's a detergent in it, because it's what I'm using. >> Viz: https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq >> >> CR >> >>> On 6/17/2019 5:06 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >>> >>> Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is one (although it may be non-optimal for other reasons, such as lack of detergent) >>> Mobil1 Synthetic 15W50 (this weight ONLY in this brand) >>> Certain weights from Kendall, Royal Purple, Gibbs >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Max Heim >>> '66 MGB >>> >>>> On Jun 17, 2019, at 2:47 PM, Bert Palte via Mgs > wrote: >>>> >>>> Yes, also over here in Europe it has become less easily available. >>>> If nothing else is available, 10W40 will do. >>>> I use mineral oil. That is good enough, our cars aren't high tech! >>>> >>>> Bert >>>> 70 B >>>> SA4BRL >>>> PA0LPS >>>> -- >>>> Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity. >>>> On 2019-06-17, 23:19 dave via Mgs > wrote: >>>> I?ve been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several years now, and it used to be immediately available from Amazon with free shipping. It has zddp. >>>> >>>> >>>> Now its 1 to 2 months. >>>> >>>> >>>> However ? Advanced Auto Parts - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-vr1-racing-20w-50-full-synthetic-motor-oil-1-quart-679082/10069836-P?searchTerm=valvoline+20w-50+full+synthetic >>>> >>>> >>>> free shipping with a minimum order of $25, which is 3 quarts. You can buy it any number of quarts (from Amazon it?s a 6 pack), and it?s a couple pennies cheaper!!! >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 11:38:31 -0500 > From: Charley Robinson > To: Max Heim , MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed" > > Okay but you said "lack of detergents" and to me that says no detergents > because it's the most common usage of the word. > > CR > >> On 6/19/2019 11:27 AM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >> Quote from the first paragraph of the FAQ: >> >> The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils >> ?not intended for >> passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased >> horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear >> protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include >> _fewer detergents_ than regular conventional motor oils. >> >> So, that answers that question. If you change your oil frequently, it >> probably isn?t a problem, though. >> >> I have used racing oil in the transmission, however, because reduced >> friction and wear protection are relevant concepts, and detergent is >> pointless (since no combustion blow-by). >> >> >> >> -- >> Max Heim >> '66 MGB >> >> >>> On Jun 19, 2019, at 8:37 AM, Charley Robinson >> > wrote: >>> >>> VR1 contains an additive package. I would hope there's a detergent in >>> it, because it's what I'm using. >>> ? Viz: https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq >>> >>> CR >>> >>>> On 6/17/2019 5:06 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >>>> >>>> Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is one (although it may be non-optimal for >>>> other reasons, such as lack of detergent) >>>> Mobil1 Synthetic 15W50 (this weight ONLY in this brand) >>>> Certain weights from Kendall, Royal Purple, Gibbs >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Max Heim >>>> '66 MGB >>>> >>>>> On Jun 17, 2019, at 2:47 PM, Bert Palte via Mgs >>>> > wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Yes, also over here in Europe it has become less easily available. >>>>> If nothing else is available, 10W40 will do. >>>>> I use mineral oil. That is good enough, our cars aren't high tech! >>>>> >>>>> Bert >>>>> 70 B >>>>> SA4BRL >>>>> PA0LPS >>>>> -- >>>>> Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity. >>>>> On 2019-06-17, 23:19 dave via Mgs >>>> > wrote: >>>>> >>>>> I?ve been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several >>>>> years now, and it used to be immediately available from Amazon >>>>> with free shipping.? It has zddp. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> Now its 1 to 2 months. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> However ? Advanced Auto Parts >>>>> -https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-vr1-racing-20w-50-full-synthetic-motor-oil-1-quart-679082/10069836-P?searchTerm=valvoline+20w-50+full+synthetic >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> free shipping with a minimum order of $25, which is 3 quarts.? >>>>> You can buy it any number of quarts (from Amazon it?s a 6 >>>>> pack), and it?s a couple pennies cheaper!!! >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________Mgs at autox.team.net >>>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested >>>>> annual donation $12.75 >>>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgshttp://autox.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgshttp://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>> >>>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>>> >>>> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >>> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Mgs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Wed, 19 Jun 2019 09:52:35 -0700 > From: Max Heim > To: MG List > Subject: Re: [Mgs] oil > Message-ID: <65B445D1-4923-408C-AED7-C450F29F6153 at sonic.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I don't want to quibble, but I think ?less than expected? or ?insufficient? are also perfectly valid meanings. If I lack money to pay my bills, that doesn?t mean I have absolutely zero money to my name. I just don't have enough. > > I would say that the ?not intended for passenger vehicles? part of the quote justifies my ?insufficient? assumption. What else could it be referring to? ?Too much? anti-friction or anti-wear? Hardly. > > Again, I wasn?t actually criiticizing the idea of using this oil. Lower level of detergent isn?t an engine-killer, if you change the oil regularly. I just know that a lot of people drive their vintage cars infrequently and irregularly, and may not change the oil all that often, so I would hesitate to recommend it as the first option, since there are other alternatives available. > > -- > Max Heim > '66 MGB > >> On Jun 19, 2019, at 9:38 AM, Charley Robinson wrote: >> >> Okay but you said "lack of detergents" and to me that says no detergents because it's the most common usage of the word. >> >> CR >> >>> On 6/19/2019 11:27 AM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >>> Quote from the first paragraph of the FAQ: >>> >>> The Valvoline VR1 Racing and other racing oils not intended for passenger vehicles contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils. >>> >>> So, that answers that question. If you change your oil frequently, it probably isn?t a problem, though. >>> >>> I have used racing oil in the transmission, however, because reduced friction and wear protection are relevant concepts, and detergent is pointless (since no combustion blow-by). >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Max Heim >>> '66 MGB >>> >>> >>>> On Jun 19, 2019, at 8:37 AM, Charley Robinson > wrote: >>>> >>>> VR1 contains an additive package. I would hope there's a detergent in it, because it's what I'm using. >>>> Viz: https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq >>>> >>>> CR >>>> >>>>> On 6/17/2019 5:06 PM, Max Heim via Mgs wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is one (although it may be non-optimal for other reasons, such as lack of detergent) >>>>> Mobil1 Synthetic 15W50 (this weight ONLY in this brand) >>>>> Certain weights from Kendall, Royal Purple, Gibbs >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> -- >>>>> Max Heim >>>>> '66 MGB >>>>> >>>>>> On Jun 17, 2019, at 2:47 PM, Bert Palte via Mgs > wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> Yes, also over here in Europe it has become less easily available. >>>>>> If nothing else is available, 10W40 will do. >>>>>> I use mineral oil. That is good enough, our cars aren't high tech! >>>>>> >>>>>> Bert >>>>>> 70 B >>>>>> SA4BRL >>>>>> PA0LPS >>>>>> -- >>>>>> Sent from my Android phone with GMX Mail. Please excuse my brevity. >>>>>> On 2019-06-17, 23:19 dave via Mgs > wrote: >>>>>> I?ve been using Valvoline 20w 50 full synthetic for several years now, and it used to be immediately available from Amazon with free shipping. It has zddp. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> Now its 1 to 2 months. >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> However ? Advanced Auto Parts - https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/valvoline-vr1-racing-20w-50-full-synthetic-motor-oil-1-quart-679082/10069836-P?searchTerm=valvoline+20w-50+full+synthetic >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> free shipping with a minimum order of $25, which is 3 quarts. You can buy it any number of quarts (from Amazon it?s a 6 pack), and it?s a couple pennies cheaper!!! >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net _______________________________________________ >>>>>> >>>>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>>> >>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>>> >>>>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> >>>>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>>>> >>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>>>> >>>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Mgs at autox.team.net >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Suggested annual donation $12.75 >>> >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive >>> >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/charley38 at twc.com >> > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Mgs mailing list > Mgs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Mgs Digest, Vol 145, Issue 12 > ************************************