From barrob at bell.net  Mon Aug  3 09:45:15 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 11:45:15 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] PIoneer radio
Message-ID: <3245938c-4941-b59b-8fa3-3db7f7c8de90@bell.net>

Hello Folks,

Have had trouble with getting a Pioneer radio to work /well/ in my MGB 
GT V8.?? Anybody experienced the same??? Thanks in advance for replies.

Cheers
Barrie
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon Aug  3 10:15:52 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 09:15:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] PIoneer radio
In-Reply-To: <3245938c-4941-b59b-8fa3-3db7f7c8de90@bell.net>
References: <3245938c-4941-b59b-8fa3-3db7f7c8de90@bell.net>
Message-ID: <6B6FD823-1952-4CA8-96DD-5C2A1FA44E99@sonic.net>

What do you mean by ?not working well??

Poor reception? Static?

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On Aug 3, 2020, at 8:45 AM, Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:
> 
> Hello Folks,
> 
> Have had trouble with getting a Pioneer radio to work well in my MGB GT V8.   Anybody experienced the same?   Thanks in advance for replies.
> 
> Cheers
> Barrie
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Mon Aug  3 10:29:59 2020
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Mon, 3 Aug 2020 16:29:59 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] [EXT]   PIoneer radio
In-Reply-To: <3245938c-4941-b59b-8fa3-3db7f7c8de90@bell.net>
References: <3245938c-4941-b59b-8fa3-3db7f7c8de90@bell.net>
Message-ID: <737F408F-D201-48F1-A06F-B1212C7FB1D7@ur.rochester.edu>

Berrie,
Not working well?  what is is doing, or not doing? Poor reception?

thanks
paul

On Aug 3, 2020, at 11:45 AM, Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net<mailto:barrob at bell.net>> wrote:

Hello Folks,

Have had trouble with getting a Pioneer radio to work well in my MGB GT V8.   Anybody experienced the same?   Thanks in advance for replies.

Cheers
Barrie
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=_D-lEfvOnfYcqLKCTcj8lof_gVs-TzsPUkYbD3EnoDk&s=k_0kF-RqgHBNjRsEjvJbYvaiuo8rO6tIzoMb53DkvLI&e=
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=_D-lEfvOnfYcqLKCTcj8lof_gVs-TzsPUkYbD3EnoDk&s=qCSpVn-n2M7HUgIsM_T1-G6i2nczMM-rzmde56gmC70&e=  https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=_D-lEfvOnfYcqLKCTcj8lof_gVs-TzsPUkYbD3EnoDk&s=yA9Wm3L2bGpmiknVztSmaMOHbm9vGBym-Y0G15Azv2U&e=

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Aug  4 01:16:54 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 08:16:54 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] mgb-v8 list
Message-ID: <9E955DD6525E47C1B88A590946B55CA9@paul>

Anyone else here use the V8 list?

Mails to it are getting bounced, and if I click on the link to it in last month's password reminder email - mgb-v8 at autox.team.net - it comes up with 'Error: No such list mgb-v8'.

Is it dead?

The link to this list in the password reminder email works.

No response to an email to list admin yet.

PaulH.

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From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Aug  4 02:32:41 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 02:32:41 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] mgb-v8 list
In-Reply-To: <9E955DD6525E47C1B88A590946B55CA9@paul>
References: <9E955DD6525E47C1B88A590946B55CA9@paul>
Message-ID: <5f683eef-10ad-f453-c21c-1630814ed980@bradakis.com>

On 8/4/20 1:16 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> Anyone else here use the V8 list?

No one was really using it.? And on the rare occasion a message was sent 
to the list, it was also sent to this list.? So I decided it wasn't 
worth keeping it around and having to spend time dealing with the spam 
it collected.

mjb.



From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Aug  4 09:34:17 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 10:34:17 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
Message-ID: <003401d66a74$b83cc7f0$28b657d0$@ranteer.com>

ISTR there was a thread a while back about rivets without holes in them
(i.e. solid tops).  I need to rivet in the metal plates on the valve cover
and I would like to do it correctly.

 

Can someone help me out?

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Aug  4 10:27:58 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 16:27:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <003401d66a74$b83cc7f0$28b657d0$@ranteer.com>
References: <003401d66a74$b83cc7f0$28b657d0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <235931637.513729.1596558478969@mail.yahoo.com>

 Rivets, Riveting Tools and Equipment | Hanson Rivet & Supply Co

| 
| 
| 
|  |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
Rivets, Riveting Tools and Equipment | Hanson Rivet & Supply Co

We provide high quality rivets, rivet tools, rivet guns, fastener, rivet machines and more! Call (800) 777-4838 ...
 |

 |

 |

Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 BN2 LeMans


    On Tuesday, August 4, 2020, 8:34:24 AM PDT, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:  
 
 <!--#yiv8474551155 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv8474551155 #yiv8474551155 p.yiv8474551155MsoNormal, #yiv8474551155 li.yiv8474551155MsoNormal, #yiv8474551155 div.yiv8474551155MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv8474551155 span.yiv8474551155EmailStyle17 {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv8474551155 .yiv8474551155MsoChpDefault {font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;} _filtered {}#yiv8474551155 div.yiv8474551155WordSection1 {}-->
ISTR there was a thread a while back about rivets without holes in them (i.e. solid tops).? I need to rivet in the metal plates on the valve cover and I would like to do it correctly.

 ?

Can someone help me out?
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rrengineer.mike at att.net
  
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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Tue Aug  4 10:47:37 2020
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 12:47:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <235931637.513729.1596558478969@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <003401d66a74$b83cc7f0$28b657d0$@ranteer.com>
 <235931637.513729.1596558478969@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <35C2AF81-818F-4D2B-B43A-41D7ACCD161D@gmail.com>

    Another good source is McMaster-Carr.  They have about anything anybody could ever want, prices do not gouge, and they ship most orders same day.
Bob


> On Aug 4, 2020, at 12:27 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> Rivets, Riveting Tools and Equipment | Hanson Rivet & Supply Co
> 
> Rivets, Riveting Tools and Equipment | Hanson Rivet & Supply Co
> We provide high quality rivets, rivet tools, rivet guns, fastener, rivet machines and more! Call (800) 777-4838 ...
> Mike MacLean
> 1969 MGB GT
> 1960 Bugeye
> 1956 BN2 LeMans
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, August 4, 2020, 8:34:24 AM PDT, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> ISTR there was a thread a while back about rivets without holes in them (i.e. solid tops).  I need to rivet in the metal plates on the valve cover and I would like to do it correctly.
> 
>  
> 
> Can someone help me out?
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rrengineer.mike at att.net
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Aug  4 10:49:44 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 16:49:44 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <35C2AF81-818F-4D2B-B43A-41D7ACCD161D@gmail.com>
References: <003401d66a74$b83cc7f0$28b657d0$@ranteer.com>
 <235931637.513729.1596558478969@mail.yahoo.com>
 <35C2AF81-818F-4D2B-B43A-41D7ACCD161D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <295221604.516293.1596559784798@mail.yahoo.com>

 Yes, but shipping sometimes costs more than the thing you are buying.Mike M

    On Tuesday, August 4, 2020, 9:47:39 AM PDT, Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 ? ? Another good source is McMaster-Carr. ?They have about anything anybody could ever want, prices do not gouge, and they ship most orders same day.Bob

On Aug 4, 2020, at 12:27 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:


 Rivets, Riveting Tools and Equipment | Hanson Rivet & Supply Co

| 
| 
| 
|  |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
Rivets, Riveting Tools and Equipment | Hanson Rivet & Supply Co

We provide high quality rivets, rivet tools, rivet guns, fastener, rivet machines and more! Call (800) 777-4838 ...
 |

 |

 |

Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 BN2 LeMans


    On Tuesday, August 4, 2020, 8:34:24 AM PDT, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:  
 
 #yiv4488997855 #yiv4488997855 -- filtered {}#yiv4488997855 filtered {}#yiv4488997855 p.yiv4488997855MsoNormal, #yiv4488997855 li.yiv4488997855MsoNormal, #yiv4488997855 div.yiv4488997855MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4488997855 span.yiv4488997855EmailStyle17 {font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv4488997855 .yiv4488997855MsoChpDefault {font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4488997855 filtered {}#yiv4488997855 div.yiv4488997855WordSection1 {}#yiv4488997855 
ISTR there was a thread a while back about rivets without holes in them (i.e. solid tops).? I need to rivet in the metal plates on the valve cover and I would like to do it correctly.

 ?

Can someone help me out?
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rrengineer.mike at att.net
  

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation ?$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com

  
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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Tue Aug  4 12:32:00 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 14:32:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1596564002.15797.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1596564002.15797.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <636e8865-9699-b4ea-9f1b-f9c2cf7b0c9f@mebtel.net>

I bought a package from McMaster-Carr a few years ago. I have lots left.

Send me your mailing address & I will put a few in envelope.

To set the rivets I made a buck with a length of hardwood. Drill a small 
divot in the end, clamp the piece of wood in a vise, position the rivet 
head in the divot - through the ID plate & valve cover and peen over the 
end of the rivet. I started it by using a center punch in the end of the 
rivet then peened it over with a ball peen hammer.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 8/4/2020 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 10:34:17 -0500
> From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
> Message-ID: <003401d66a74$b83cc7f0$28b657d0$@ranteer.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> ISTR there was a thread a while back about rivets without holes in them
> (i.e. solid tops).  I need to rivet in the metal plates on the valve cover
> and I would like to do it correctly.
>
>   
>
> Can someone help me out?


From dwoerpel at wi.net  Tue Aug  4 14:39:46 2020
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Tue, 04 Aug 2020 15:39:46 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <636e8865-9699-b4ea-9f1b-f9c2cf7b0c9f@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.36.1596573594.2902.mgs@autox.team.net>


I did similar but the buck was an alloy. Worked well on the tubular rivet but I get oil leaking out the rivet holes.? Re-did them using sealer but still leak.Any ideas before Dave rivers his and this Dave tries again?Thanks,Dave W'59 :()'59 MGA 1500Burlington WI?"Pay It Forward"Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S8, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net> Date: 8/4/20  1:32 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: mgs at autox.team.net, dave at ranteer.com Subject: Re: [Mgs] rivets without holes I bought a package from McMaster-Carr a few years ago. I have lots left.Send me your mailing address & I will put a few in envelope.To set the rivets I made a buck with a length of hardwood. Drill a small divot in the end, clamp the piece of wood in a vise, position the rivet head in the divot - through the ID plate & valve cover and peen over the end of the rivet. I started it by using a center punch in the end of the rivet then peened it over with a ball peen hammer.Eric RussellMebane, NCOn 8/4/2020 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:> Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 10:34:17 -0500> From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>> Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes> Message-ID: <003401d66a74$b83cc7f0$28b657d0$@ranteer.com>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii">> ISTR there was a thread a while back about rivets without holes in them> (i.e. solid tops).? I need to rivet in the metal plates on the valve cover> and I would like to do it correctly.>>?? >> Can someone help me out?_______________________________________________Mgs at autox.team.netDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation? $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dwoerpel at wi.net
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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Tue Aug  4 15:38:32 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 17:38:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <88.CE.26719.697C92F5@mx04.onyx.dfw.sync.lan>
References: <88.CE.26719.697C92F5@mx04.onyx.dfw.sync.lan>
Message-ID: <2c2cdf2e-92e0-f18e-a700-84ef0fa025bf@mebtel.net>

It was a few years ago and my remembering ain't what it used to be... It 
is possible I put a little bit of sealant (RTV?) on the rivet before 
assembly. But when it is properly installed the rivet's shank should 
expand to fill the drilled hole before being peened over.

Anyway, it's an MG. I thought they were supposed to leak oil? Fill up 
the oil & check the gas...

Eric

On 8/4/2020 4:39 PM, dwoerpel wrote:
> I did similar but the buck was an alloy. Worked well on the tubular 
> rivet but I get oil leaking out the rivet holes.? Re-did them using 
> sealer but still leak.
> Any ideas before Dave rivers his and this Dave tries again?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave W


From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue Aug  4 15:47:01 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 14:47:01 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <20200804204018.89BCFA13B2@autox.team.net>
References: <20200804204018.89BCFA13B2@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DF59A77E-7BCD-4C40-9D38-6FBDEDF5D2B0@sonic.net>

I would think solder would be the solution.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On Aug 4, 2020, at 1:39 PM, dwoerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net> wrote:
> 
> I did similar but the buck was an alloy. Worked well on the tubular rivet but I get oil leaking out the rivet holes.  Re-did them using sealer but still leak.
> Any ideas before Dave rivers his and this Dave tries again?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave W
> 
> '59 :()
> '59 MGA 1500
> 
> Burlington WI 
> "Pay It Forward"
> 
> 
> 
> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S8, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
> 
> 
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net <mailto:ejrussell at mebtel.net>> 
> Date: 8/4/20 1:32 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>, dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] rivets without holes
> 
> I bought a package from McMaster-Carr a few years ago. I have lots left.
> 
> Send me your mailing address & I will put a few in envelope.
> 
> To set the rivets I made a buck with a length of hardwood. Drill a small 
> divot in the end, clamp the piece of wood in a vise, position the rivet 
> head in the divot - through the ID plate & valve cover and peen over the 
> end of the rivet. I started it by using a center punch in the end of the 
> rivet then peened it over with a ball peen hammer.
> 
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> 
> On 8/4/2020 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> > Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 10:34:17 -0500
> > From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> > To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
> > Message-ID: <003401d66a74$b83cc7f0$28b657d0$@ranteer.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > ISTR there was a thread a while back about rivets without holes in them
> > (i.e. solid tops).  I need to rivet in the metal plates on the valve cover
> > and I would like to do it correctly.
> >
> >   
> >
> > Can someone help me out?

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From ddarby at centurytel.net  Tue Aug  4 16:32:08 2020
From: ddarby at centurytel.net (David F. Darby)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 17:32:08 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <20200804204004.B2E40A13BF@autox.team.net>
References: <636e8865-9699-b4ea-9f1b-f9c2cf7b0c9f@mebtel.net>
 <20200804204004.B2E40A13BF@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <045801d66aaf$16b303a0$44190ae0$@centurytel.net>

I did the same thing and mine weeps also,

 

David

 

From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dwoerpel
Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2020 3:40 PM
To: Eric Russell; mgs at autox.team.net; dave at ranteer.com
Subject: Re: [Mgs] rivets without holes

 

I did similar but the buck was an alloy. Worked well on the tubular rivet but I get oil leaking out the rivet holes.  Re-did them using sealer but still leak.

Any ideas before Dave rivers his and this Dave tries again?

 

Thanks,

 

Dave W

 

'59 :()

'59 MGA 1500

 

Burlington WI 

"Pay It Forward"

 

 

 

Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S8, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone

 

 

-------- Original message --------

From: Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net> 

Date: 8/4/20 1:32 PM (GMT-06:00) 

To: mgs at autox.team.net, dave at ranteer.com 

Subject: Re: [Mgs] rivets without holes 

 

I bought a package from McMaster-Carr a few years ago. I have lots left.

Send me your mailing address & I will put a few in envelope.

To set the rivets I made a buck with a length of hardwood. Drill a small 
divot in the end, clamp the piece of wood in a vise, position the rivet 
head in the divot - through the ID plate & valve cover and peen over the 
end of the rivet. I started it by using a center punch in the end of the 
rivet then peened it over with a ball peen hammer.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 8/4/2020 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 10:34:17 -0500
> From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
> Message-ID: <003401d66a74$b83cc7f0$28b657d0$@ranteer.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> ISTR there was a thread a while back about rivets without holes in them
> (i.e. solid tops).  I need to rivet in the metal plates on the valve cover
> and I would like to do it correctly.
>
>   
>
> Can someone help me out?

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Tue Aug  4 16:39:31 2020
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 18:39:31 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <DF59A77E-7BCD-4C40-9D38-6FBDEDF5D2B0@sonic.net>
References: <20200804204018.89BCFA13B2@autox.team.net>
 <DF59A77E-7BCD-4C40-9D38-6FBDEDF5D2B0@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <29CA38BE-0B77-4298-A4FF-2928D207C47C@gmail.com>

     I have some 1/8 x 1/2 round-head aluminium rivets, solid shank, that I can share with anyone who needs some.   These I got for the rear side curtains for TD, when the kit from a vendor in California contained pre-rusted, flat-head wrong rivets.  
     One puts a rivet through the pieces to be joined, nips off the rivet about 1/8 inch above the surface, then peens the cut end using an anvil under the round head. I made the anvil to fit rivet round heads by drilling into the end of a bolt a hole the size of rivet head. Heads stay nicely round and unscratched this way.
   Riveting is quicker than fitting a machine screw, washer and nut.  

> On Aug 4, 2020, at 5:47 PM, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:
> 
> I would think solder would be the solution.
> 
> --
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB
> 
>> On Aug 4, 2020, at 1:39 PM, dwoerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net> wrote:
>> 
>> I did similar but the buck was an alloy. Worked well on the tubular rivet but I get oil leaking out the rivet holes.  Re-did them using sealer but still leak.
>> Any ideas before Dave rivers his and this Dave tries again?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Dave W
>> 
>> '59 :()
>> '59 MGA 1500
>> 
>> Burlington WI 
>> "Pay It Forward"
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S8, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
>> 
>> 
>> -------- Original message --------
>> From: Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net> 
>> Date: 8/4/20 1:32 PM (GMT-06:00)
>> To: mgs at autox.team.net, dave at ranteer.com
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] rivets without holes
>> 
>> I bought a package from McMaster-Carr a few years ago. I have lots left.
>> 
>> Send me your mailing address & I will put a few in envelope.
>> 
>> To set the rivets I made a buck with a length of hardwood. Drill a small 
>> divot in the end, clamp the piece of wood in a vise, position the rivet 
>> head in the divot - through the ID plate & valve cover and peen over the 
>> end of the rivet. I started it by using a center punch in the end of the 
>> rivet then peened it over with a ball peen hammer.
>> 
>> Eric Russell
>> Mebane, NC
>> 
>> On 8/4/2020 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
>> > Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 10:34:17 -0500
>> > From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
>> > To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
>> > Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
>> > Message-ID: <003401d66a74$b83cc7f0$28b657d0$@ranteer.com>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> >
>> > ISTR there was a thread a while back about rivets without holes in them
>> > (i.e. solid tops).  I need to rivet in the metal plates on the valve cover
>> > and I would like to do it correctly.
>> >
>> >   
>> >
>> > Can someone help me out?
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Tue Aug  4 16:41:06 2020
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 18:41:06 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <045801d66aaf$16b303a0$44190ae0$@centurytel.net>
References: <636e8865-9699-b4ea-9f1b-f9c2cf7b0c9f@mebtel.net>
 <20200804204004.B2E40A13BF@autox.team.net>
 <045801d66aaf$16b303a0$44190ae0$@centurytel.net>
Message-ID: <BB361FEF-1E33-4A25-AED4-C42C7528FE5D@gmail.com>

   A bit of Permatex on the rivet?s shank before peening, perhaps?  
Bob


> On Aug 4, 2020, at 6:32 PM, David F. Darby <ddarby at centurytel.net> wrote:
> 
> I did the same thing and mine weeps also,
>  
> David
>  
> From: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dwoerpel
> Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2020 3:40 PM
> To: Eric Russell; mgs at autox.team.net; dave at ranteer.com
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] rivets without holes
>  
> I did similar but the buck was an alloy. Worked well on the tubular rivet but I get oil leaking out the rivet holes.  Re-did them using sealer but still leak.
> Any ideas before Dave rivers his and this Dave tries again?
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Dave W
>  
> '59 :()
> '59 MGA 1500
>  
> Burlington WI 
> "Pay It Forward"
>  
>  
>  
> Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S8, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
>  
>  
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net>
> Date: 8/4/20 1:32 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: mgs at autox.team.net, dave at ranteer.com
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] rivets without holes
>  
> I bought a package from McMaster-Carr a few years ago. I have lots left.
> 
> Send me your mailing address & I will put a few in envelope.
> 
> To set the rivets I made a buck with a length of hardwood. Drill a small 
> divot in the end, clamp the piece of wood in a vise, position the rivet 
> head in the divot - through the ID plate & valve cover and peen over the 
> end of the rivet. I started it by using a center punch in the end of the 
> rivet then peened it over with a ball peen hammer.
> 
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
> 
> On 8/4/2020 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> > Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 10:34:17 -0500
> > From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> > To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> > Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
> > Message-ID: <003401d66a74$b83cc7f0$28b657d0$@ranteer.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > ISTR there was a thread a while back about rivets without holes in them
> > (i.e. solid tops).  I need to rivet in the metal plates on the valve cover
> > and I would like to do it correctly.
> >
> >   
> >
> > Can someone help me out?
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dwoerpel at wi.net
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue Aug  4 15:26:09 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 21:26:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <20200804203956.21381A0FBC@autox.team.net>
References: <636e8865-9699-b4ea-9f1b-f9c2cf7b0c9f@mebtel.net>
 <20200804203956.21381A0FBC@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <374309614.38106.1596576369764@mail.yahoo.com>

 Don't know why your rivets are leaking.? If you have correct clearances on the rocker shaft the oil should just dribble out the rockers.? Maybe you need a new rocker assembly.? How is your oil pressure?Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 BN2 LeMans

    On Tuesday, August 4, 2020, 1:39:58 PM PDT, dwoerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net> wrote:  
 
 I did similar but the buck was an alloy. Worked well on the tubular rivet but I get oil leaking out the rivet holes.? Re-did them using sealer but still leak.Any ideas before Dave rivers his and this Dave tries again?
Thanks,
Dave W
'59 :()'59 MGA 1500
Burlington WI?"Pay It Forward"


Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S8, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone

-------- Original message --------From: Eric Russell <ejrussell at mebtel.net> Date: 8/4/20 1:32 PM (GMT-06:00) To: mgs at autox.team.net, dave at ranteer.com Subject: Re: [Mgs] rivets without holes 
I bought a package from McMaster-Carr a few years ago. I have lots left.

Send me your mailing address & I will put a few in envelope.

To set the rivets I made a buck with a length of hardwood. Drill a small 
divot in the end, clamp the piece of wood in a vise, position the rivet 
head in the divot - through the ID plate & valve cover and peen over the 
end of the rivet. I started it by using a center punch in the end of the 
rivet then peened it over with a ball peen hammer.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC

On 8/4/2020 2:00 PM, mgs-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Tue, 4 Aug 2020 10:34:17 -0500
> From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
> Message-ID: <003401d66a74$b83cc7f0$28b657d0$@ranteer.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> ISTR there was a thread a while back about rivets without holes in them
> (i.e. solid tops).? I need to rivet in the metal plates on the valve cover
> and I would like to do it correctly.
>
>?? 
>
> Can someone help me out?

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dwoerpel at wi.net
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Aug  6 01:28:10 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2020 08:28:10 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
References: <636e8865-9699-b4ea-9f1b-f9c2cf7b0c9f@mebtel.net>
 <20200804203956.21381A0FBC@autox.team.net>
 <374309614.38106.1596576369764@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BA578164689C4ED2A8065ECA448D02EB@paul>

IME the rockers flick oil all over the place, and it can leak out past the plastic cap if that is distorted or the seal worn.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  Don't know why your rivets are leaking.  If you have correct clearances on the rocker shaft the oil should just dribble out the rockers.  Maybe you need a new rocker assembly.  How is your oil pressure?
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From ccrobins at ktc.com  Thu Aug  6 06:49:57 2020
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley Robinson)
Date: Thu, 6 Aug 2020 07:49:57 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <BA578164689C4ED2A8065ECA448D02EB@paul>
References: <636e8865-9699-b4ea-9f1b-f9c2cf7b0c9f@mebtel.net>
 <20200804203956.21381A0FBC@autox.team.net>
 <374309614.38106.1596576369764@mail.yahoo.com>
 <BA578164689C4ED2A8065ECA448D02EB@paul>
Message-ID: <65e5e44e-51ae-1d50-4920-c0a5d3f1d306@ktc.com>

Yep, try revving the engine up with the valve cover off and you'll have 
oil all over the place.

CR


On 8/6/2020 2:28 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> ?
> IME the rockers flick oil all over the place, and it can leak out past 
> the plastic cap if that is distorted or the seal worn.
> PaulH.
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From dwoerpel at wi.net  Thu Aug  6 07:29:28 2020
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Thu, 06 Aug 2020 08:29:28 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] rivets without holes
In-Reply-To: <BA578164689C4ED2A8065ECA448D02EB@paul>
Message-ID: <mailman.37.1596720575.2902.mgs@autox.team.net>


Thanks for the reponses.? On the road gauge indicates 70 psi, 40 idle.? I agree the oil splashes everywhere ever since a friend ran his 57 Chevy in 1964 without valve covers cuz he wanted to see what would happen. What mess.? I can remember my 68 MGB, gone now, making a mess when the rubber grommets under the cover nuts had perished.? I'll re-rivet and try new Permatex the winter.?Stay safe,Dave W59 :()59 MGA 1500Burlington WI?"Pay It Forward"Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S8, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> Date: 8/6/20  2:28 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] rivets without holes 
IME the rockers flick oil all over the place, and it can leak 
out past the plastic cap if that is distorted or the seal worn.
?
PaulH.

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  
  
  
  Don't know why your rivets are leaking.? 
  If you have correct clearances on the rocker shaft the oil should just dribble 
  out the rockers.? Maybe you need a new rocker assembly.? How is your 
  oil pressure?
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Aug  8 06:37:52 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 07:37:52 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] spin on oil filter
Message-ID: <000001d66d80$bccecfc0$366c6f40$@ranteer.com>

What is the correct color for the spin on oil filter for a 1956 mga?

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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Sat Aug  8 06:48:34 2020
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 12:48:34 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] [EXT]   spin on oil filter
In-Reply-To: <000001d66d80$bccecfc0$366c6f40$@ranteer.com>
References: <000001d66d80$bccecfc0$366c6f40$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <F6A1DD7E-F1F6-48F8-A9B8-C64F965E880E@ur.rochester.edu>

color?  Of the filter can?


On Aug 8, 2020, at 8:37 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com<mailto:dave at ranteer.com>> wrote:

What is the correct color for the spin on oil filter for a 1956 mga?
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=fTLRQRXj5iMsfrIxAZXD2oVuJerBkCVR_k3mpbEGsAc&s=29Td4dcBvQiHNcasa6jW8CIGC4By7YmY4tBI1K0fPI0&e=
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Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
   585-275-5226





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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Aug  8 07:08:38 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 08:08:38 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [EXT]   spin on oil filter
In-Reply-To: <F6A1DD7E-F1F6-48F8-A9B8-C64F965E880E@ur.rochester.edu>
References: <000001d66d80$bccecfc0$366c6f40$@ranteer.com>
 <F6A1DD7E-F1F6-48F8-A9B8-C64F965E880E@ur.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <000c01d66d85$08ed3690$1ac7a3b0$@ranteer.com>

Yes, the cannister itself.  That nasty, oily messy thing that often leaks!

 

From: Osborne, Paul <paul at ece.rochester.edu> 
Sent: Saturday, August 8, 2020 7:49 AM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [EXT] [Mgs] spin on oil filter

 

color?  Of the filter can?  

 

 

On Aug 8, 2020, at 8:37 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com>
> wrote:

 

What is the correct color for the spin on oil filter for a 1956 mga?

_______________________________________________

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Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester 
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627

   585-275-5226

 

 

 

 

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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Sat Aug  8 07:10:39 2020
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 09:10:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] spin on oil filter
In-Reply-To: <000001d66d80$bccecfc0$366c6f40$@ranteer.com>
References: <000001d66d80$bccecfc0$366c6f40$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <D688A3F1-A9D7-47F9-BC17-073F73EA0650@gmail.com>

   The original filter was a cannister, into which a filter was inserted. Spin-on filters are a great improvement in convenience, and many owners have installed the adapter.
    MGA engines were complete when they were installed, the engines, without distributors, were sprayed MG red with filters in place.
    You can spray it red, the closest match you can find to engine red, though it is unlikely that anyone would find fault with leaving the filter in whatever colour it came out of the box.
Bob

> On Aug 8, 2020, at 8:37 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> What is the correct color for the spin on oil filter for a 1956 mga?
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Sat Aug  8 07:14:15 2020
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 13:14:15 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] [EXT]   spin on oil filter
In-Reply-To: <000c01d66d85$08ed3690$1ac7a3b0$@ranteer.com>
References: <000001d66d80$bccecfc0$366c6f40$@ranteer.com>
 <F6A1DD7E-F1F6-48F8-A9B8-C64F965E880E@ur.rochester.edu>
 <000c01d66d85$08ed3690$1ac7a3b0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <D7E30B24-F4BC-4CD8-A821-317E7B7F1364@ur.rochester.edu>

Ok, engine color



On Aug 8, 2020, at 9:08 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com<mailto:dave at ranteer.com>> wrote:

Yes, the cannister itself.  That nasty, oily messy thing that often leaks!

From: Osborne, Paul <paul at ece.rochester.edu<mailto:paul at ece.rochester.edu>>
Sent: Saturday, August 8, 2020 7:49 AM
To: dave <dave at ranteer.com<mailto:dave at ranteer.com>>
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [EXT] [Mgs] spin on oil filter

color?  Of the filter can?


On Aug 8, 2020, at 8:37 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com<mailto:dave at ranteer.com>> wrote:

What is the correct color for the spin on oil filter for a 1956 mga?
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
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Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
   585-275-5226




_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
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Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
   585-275-5226





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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat Aug  8 08:06:15 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 15:06:15 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] spin on oil filter
References: <000001d66d80$bccecfc0$366c6f40$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <32ED93146E644903A4C014A5EA8B92D8@paul>

Did the MGA have a spin-on from the factory?  The MGB didn't originally.
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  What is the correct color for the spin on oil filter for a 1956 mga?

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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Aug  8 09:03:39 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2020 10:03:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] spin on oil filter
In-Reply-To: <32ED93146E644903A4C014A5EA8B92D8@paul>
Message-ID: <mailman.38.1596899024.2902.mgs@autox.team.net>

My apologies.? ?I meant oil filter.? ?It is certainly not spin on
-------- Original message --------From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> Date: 8/8/20  9:06 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>, mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] spin on oil filter 
Did the MGA have a spin-on from the factory?? The MGB 
didn't originally.

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  
  
  What is the correct color for the spin on oil filter for a 
  1956 mga?
  
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Aug  8 09:04:14 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2020 10:04:14 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] spin on oil filter
In-Reply-To: <32ED93146E644903A4C014A5EA8B92D8@paul>
Message-ID: <mailman.39.1596899058.2902.mgs@autox.team.net>

As in cannister filter
-------- Original message --------From: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> Date: 8/8/20  9:06 AM  (GMT-06:00) To: dave <dave at ranteer.com>, mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] spin on oil filter 
Did the MGA have a spin-on from the factory?? The MGB 
didn't originally.

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  
  
  What is the correct color for the spin on oil filter for a 
  1956 mga?
  
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Aug  8 12:34:19 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 13:34:19 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Oil Filter Cannister
Message-ID: <005201d66db2$884cd030$98e67090$@ranteer.com>

There seems to be some diverse opinion as to the correct color, but I think
all agree that red engine color cannot be considered incorrect.

 

On page 17 of Original MGA by Clausager shows a bodyless car and the
cannister is definitely engine color.

 

On a personal note I think it would look better if a different/contrasting
color, but I'm trying to be relatively correct.  This page:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of1.htm  shows a blue one.

 

Which brings me next to the fan.  It is black in that picture.  Further
study of the pictures in the book indicate, at least to me, that the 1500
engines had a black fan and the 1600 engines yellow.  Does that sound right?

 

 

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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun Aug  9 12:19:55 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 9 Aug 2020 14:19:55 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA engine fan (was: Oil Filter Cannister)
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1596996001.19024.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1596996001.19024.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <651ec4e2-6520-2dc8-57a5-dd3a5e371c2d@mebtel.net>

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/paint/pt101.htm
<http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/paint/pt101.htm>

Specifically: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/paint/pt101b.htm 
<http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/paint/pt101b.htm>

<quote>Depending on car model and production date, the fan originally 
could have been black, red, or yellow. Some very early production 1500s 
may have had black fan. Otherwise the engine was painted in complete 
assembly including the fan, resulting in the fan being dark red. A lot 
of Twin Cams, especially 1500 body types, had black fan. There are 
reports of some early 1600s having either red or black fan. Sometime 
likely during 1959 production year, the fan was painted yellow to 
satisfy new safety standards, and all later cars should have yellow fan 
as original.</quote>

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
> Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2020 13:34:19 -0500
> From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Oil Filter Cannister
> Which brings me next to the fan.  It is black in that picture.  Further
> study of the pictures in the book indicate, at least to me, that the 1500
> engines had a black fan and the 1600 engines yellow.  Does that sound right?

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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Aug 15 08:52:04 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 09:52:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] fan belt 56 MGA
Message-ID: <000801d67313$a55ee1c0$f01ca540$@ranteer.com>

Anyone have a part number I can get at a local parts store for the fan belt
for 56 MGA?

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From jimray at hartcom.net  Sat Aug 15 10:41:49 2020
From: jimray at hartcom.net (jimray at hartcom.net)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 12:41:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] (no subject)
Message-ID: <59c04c40-1eef-4402-8d94-a10b041b2bb7@email.android.com>

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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat Aug 15 12:28:05 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 14:28:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] fan belt 56 MGA
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1597514401.2193.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1597514401.2193.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <f9a8c92d-c1e5-469b-55fe-c7fabfbbe3b1@mebtel.net>

If you have a fan belt (that fits), take it to an auto parts store and 
ask for one the same size. If they want to look it up in their computer 
leave and go to a real auto parts store.

If you don't have one that fits, run a cloth tape measure around the 
pulleys (with the generator about 1/3rd to 1/2 away from the block), 
note the total length and go to the auto parts store (the one that 
doesn't need a computer for everything) and ask for one that length.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
> Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 09:52:04 -0500
> From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] fan belt 56 MGA
>
> Anyone have a part number I can get at a local parts store for the fan belt
> for 56 MGA?


From barrob at bell.net  Sat Aug 15 14:22:05 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 16:22:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] fan belt 56 MGA
In-Reply-To: <f9a8c92d-c1e5-469b-55fe-c7fabfbbe3b1@mebtel.net>
References: <mailman.1.1597514401.2193.mgs@autox.team.net>
 <f9a8c92d-c1e5-469b-55fe-c7fabfbbe3b1@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <97acf34b-6978-520f-6fb6-aaf6f3dc636a@bell.net>

Hello Eric,

I loved that about visiting a parts store that knows its onions.? We had 
a great place in Barrie - even stocked BSF fasteners.?? They got bought 
out by a 'chain' outfit.? Last time I went in for a couple of bolts they 
had to know what car it was for and poised over the keyboard.? I laugh 
at their expression when I tell them !!!!!

Barrie
AMF Club

On 8/15/2020 2:28 PM, Eric Russell wrote:
> If you have a fan belt (that fits), take it to an auto parts store and 
> ask for one the same size. If they want to look it up in their 
> computer leave and go to a real auto parts store.
>
> If you don't have one that fits, run a cloth tape measure around the 
> pulleys (with the generator about 1/3rd to 1/2 away from the block), 
> note the total length and go to the auto parts store (the one that 
> doesn't need a computer for everything) and ask for one that length.
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>> Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 09:52:04 -0500
>> From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
>> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Mgs] fan belt 56 MGA
>>
>> Anyone have a part number I can get at a local parts store for the 
>> fan belt
>> for 56 MGA?
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net

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From aekell at aol.com  Sat Aug 15 15:00:24 2020
From: aekell at aol.com (Alan Kellogg)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 17:00:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] fan belt 56 MGA
In-Reply-To: <000801d67313$a55ee1c0$f01ca540$@ranteer.com>
References: <000801d67313$a55ee1c0$f01ca540$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <47CE855A-070B-40F8-9FED-6EB2250982AE@aol.com>

4L370 works.  



Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 15, 2020, at 10:52 AM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> Anyone have a part number I can get at a local parts store for the fan belt for 56 MGA?
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/aekell at aol.com
> 
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Aug 15 15:14:44 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 16:14:44 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] fan belt 56 MGA
In-Reply-To: <97acf34b-6978-520f-6fb6-aaf6f3dc636a@bell.net>
References: <mailman.1.1597514401.2193.mgs@autox.team.net>
 <f9a8c92d-c1e5-469b-55fe-c7fabfbbe3b1@mebtel.net>
 <97acf34b-6978-520f-6fb6-aaf6f3dc636a@bell.net>
Message-ID: <001f01d67349$1aac88d0$50059a70$@ranteer.com>

I did some more poking around and found some info on a forum.  Picked this up at an O?Reilly?s, installed it, and it works.

 

 

 

From: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Barrie Robinson
Sent: Saturday, August 15, 2020 3:22 PM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] fan belt 56 MGA

 

Hello Eric,

I loved that about visiting a parts store that knows its onions.  We had a great place in Barrie - even stocked BSF fasteners.   They got bought out by a 'chain' outfit.  Last time I went in for a couple of bolts they had to know what car it was for and poised over the keyboard.  I laugh at their expression when I tell them !!!!!   

Barrie
AMF Club

On 8/15/2020 2:28 PM, Eric Russell wrote:

If you have a fan belt (that fits), take it to an auto parts store and ask for one the same size. If they want to look it up in their computer leave and go to a real auto parts store. 

If you don't have one that fits, run a cloth tape measure around the pulleys (with the generator about 1/3rd to 1/2 away from the block), note the total length and go to the auto parts store (the one that doesn't need a computer for everything) and ask for one that length. 

Eric Russell 
Mebane, NC 



Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 09:52:04 -0500 
From: "dave"  <mailto:dave at ranteer.com> <dave at ranteer.com> 
To:  <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net> <mgs at autox.team.net> 
Subject: [Mgs] fan belt 56 MGA 

Anyone have a part number I can get at a local parts store for the fan belt 
for 56 MGA? 


_______________________________________________ 

Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>  
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation  $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive 

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net 

 

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From pchastnow at gmail.com  Sat Aug 15 15:32:16 2020
From: pchastnow at gmail.com (Peter Chast)
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 17:32:16 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] fan belt 56 MGA
In-Reply-To: <97acf34b-6978-520f-6fb6-aaf6f3dc636a@bell.net>
References: <mailman.1.1597514401.2193.mgs@autox.team.net>
 <f9a8c92d-c1e5-469b-55fe-c7fabfbbe3b1@mebtel.net>
 <97acf34b-6978-520f-6fb6-aaf6f3dc636a@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CA+X0UYxd_+bbbFH_Nt2z-pJBzDbYrTwk0_QnoBEiqi48WLVypw@mail.gmail.com>

When I worked at Parts America we had a rack of catalogs as backup.
We could get almost anything for anyone including custom parts.

When they were bought out those valuable catalogs soon disappeared.
I started buying from competitors and on line then.

On Sat, Aug 15, 2020 at 4:22 PM Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:

> Hello Eric,
>
> I loved that about visiting a parts store that knows its onions.  We had a
> great place in Barrie - even stocked BSF fasteners.   They got bought out
> by a 'chain' outfit.  Last time I went in for a couple of bolts they had to
> know what car it was for and poised over the keyboard.  I laugh at their
> expression when I tell them !!!!!
>
> Barrie
> AMF Club
>
> On 8/15/2020 2:28 PM, Eric Russell wrote:
>
> If you have a fan belt (that fits), take it to an auto parts store and ask
> for one the same size. If they want to look it up in their computer leave
> and go to a real auto parts store.
>
> If you don't have one that fits, run a cloth tape measure around the
> pulleys (with the generator about 1/3rd to 1/2 away from the block), note
> the total length and go to the auto parts store (the one that doesn't need
> a computer for everything) and ask for one that length.
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
> Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2020 09:52:04 -0500
> From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com> <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net> <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] fan belt 56 MGA
>
> Anyone have a part number I can get at a local parts store for the fan
> belt
> for 56 MGA?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/pchastnow at gmail.com
>

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From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Aug 16 20:18:39 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2020 21:18:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] maybe to save others some time and frustration
Message-ID: <000701d6743c$ba36c660$2ea45320$@ranteer.com>

I'm redoing a 56 MGA.  Slowly. 

 

Had to put in new rebound straps in the rear.  The old ones were, well,
shredded is the best description I can come up with.

 

I ordered new ones from https://www.bpnorthwest.com/ which is good
considering the flack coming from Barney Gaylord's site about the parts Moss
was selling.

 

Since the car was on a lift, I was unable to attach them easily, and figured
all I had to do was drop the lift down with a pair of ramps to catch the
rear wheels.  Then the suspension would compress, and voila!  I could
install the straps.

 

NO GOOD!!!!!  Checked on Barney's site, and he said all you had to do was
fully load the suspension and it was no problem to install the straps.
Couldn't figure out what the problem was; thought of putting some sand bags
in the trunk to maybe compress it some more.  Or maybe use some tie down
ratchet straps to pull the frame and the suspension together.  Maybe loosen
the rear u bolts to let the leaf springs come up a bit???

 

I was baffled.

 

My (grown) son came over today to help me.  that's when I had an epiphany.
Maybe I need to load the WHOLE suspension!!  Grabbed another pair of ramps
for the front, lowered the lift, and wow!  Then with my son sitting in the
trunk I had tons of room to put the rebound straps in.  easy peasy!!!!

 

Obviously I'm not bragging.  Just thought I would share my experience to
save others from the frustration I went through.  

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From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon Aug 17 00:32:36 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 16 Aug 2020 23:32:36 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] maybe to save others some time and frustration
In-Reply-To: <000701d6743c$ba36c660$2ea45320$@ranteer.com>
References: <000701d6743c$ba36c660$2ea45320$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <6A4DF1E2-8CC2-4D12-AF48-62381F1F18E0@sonic.net>

You had better luck than I did. I was trying to do it without the engine or transmission in the car. I wound up piling 5 spare wheels and tires plus a heavy toolbox in the boot, plus everything else heavy I could find in the cockpit. Managed it, though.


--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On Aug 16, 2020, at 7:18 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> I?m redoing a 56 MGA.  Slowly. 
>  
> Had to put in new rebound straps in the rear.  The old ones were, well, shredded is the best description I can come up with.
>  
> I ordered new ones from https://www.bpnorthwest.com/ <https://www.bpnorthwest.com/> which is good considering the flack coming from Barney Gaylord?s site about the parts Moss was selling.
>  
> Since the car was on a lift, I was unable to attach them easily, and figured all I had to do was drop the lift down with a pair of ramps to catch the rear wheels.  Then the suspension would compress, and voila!  I could install the straps.
>  
> NO GOOD!!!!!  Checked on Barney?s site, and he said all you had to do was fully load the suspension and it was no problem to install the straps.  Couldn?t figure out what the problem was; thought of putting some sand bags in the trunk to maybe compress it some more.  Or maybe use some tie down ratchet straps to pull the frame and the suspension together.  Maybe loosen the rear u bolts to let the leaf springs come up a bit???
>  
> I was baffled.
>  
> My (grown) son came over today to help me.  that?s when I had an epiphany.  Maybe I need to load the WHOLE suspension!!  Grabbed another pair of ramps for the front, lowered the lift, and wow!  Then with my son sitting in the trunk I had tons of room to put the rebound straps in.  easy peasy!!!!
>  
> Obviously I?m not bragging.  Just thought I would share my experience to save others from the frustration I went through.  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net>
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Aug 17 01:35:53 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2020 08:35:53 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] maybe to save others some time and frustration
References: <000701d6743c$ba36c660$2ea45320$@ranteer.com>
 <6A4DF1E2-8CC2-4D12-AF48-62381F1F18E0@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <B8B2D6274A5F47B599A04CE569707D94@paul>

Depends on the rear springs.  On an MGB at least when fully fitted out and sitting on its wheels there should be a curve in the rebound straps, which means they can be fitted and removed easily without any additional weight.  However for some time springs were way too hard and/or arched which jacked the rear right up and additional weight had to be added to compress them enough.  It's hardly surprising that without an engine/gearbox higher, although I do remember someone asking why his suspension was fully extended front and rear, with engine and gearbox fitted, and he only mentioned later that it was on a rotator ...

  ----- Original Message ----- 


  You had better luck than I did. I was trying to do it without the engine or transmission in the car. I wound up piling 5 spare wheels and tires plus a heavy toolbox in the boot, plus everything else heavy I could find in the cockpit. Managed it, though.
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon Aug 17 16:17:49 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2020 22:17:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] 3rd Brakelight on GT
References: <1933632985.3447965.1597702669398.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1933632985.3447965.1597702669398@mail.yahoo.com>

Anyone installed a third brakelight on an MGB GT?? Pictures?? Schematics?Mike MacLean69 MGB GT60 Bugeye56 BN2 LeMans
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From robincamblin at att.net  Mon Aug 17 16:21:24 2020
From: robincamblin at att.net (robincamblin)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2020 17:21:24 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 3rd Brakelight on GT
In-Reply-To: <1933632985.3447965.1597702669398@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.58.1597702893.2902.mgs@autox.team.net>


Yes, 24.95 off Amazon easy wiringinto existing harness.Rob Camblin?Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
-------- Original message --------From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> Date: 8/17/20  5:18 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: MGB List <mgs at autox.team.net> Subject: [Mgs] 3rd Brakelight on GT Anyone installed a third brakelight on an MGB GT?? Pictures?? Schematics?Mike MacLean69 MGB GT60 Bugeye56 BN2 LeMans
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From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Aug 17 18:47:15 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2020 18:47:15 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] '74 MGB ignition switch?
Message-ID: <83da8906-c098-da31-d6ff-48047b981c6f@bradakis.com>

How difficult is it to replace just the electrical portion of a 1974 MGB 
ignition switch?? If I ever did the task while working at Bailey's I 
don't remember anything about it, and I don't have any MGB repair 
manuals in my collection.

Not my car, working on one for a fellow British Motor Club of Utah 
member, a younger guy who recently became infatuated with these cars.? 
Wondering if someone of his modest skill level can do the task himself.? 
I did the hard part, diagnosing the problem and tracking it down to the 
switch.? Sometimes having decades of experience is a big benefit.

mjb.



From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Aug 17 19:26:47 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2020 20:26:47 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 3rd Brakelight on GT
In-Reply-To: <20200817222157.098E4A101F@autox.team.net>
References: <1933632985.3447965.1597702669398@mail.yahoo.com>
 <20200817222157.098E4A101F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <002f01d674fe$a54695b0$efd3c110$@ranteer.com>

Before you go to the trouble, do some research.  When the third brake light was first introduced, it definitely caused a reduction in rear end collisions because it was novel and new.  After a few years its effectiveness was in dispute because people had gotten used to it and it no longer was novel or new.  

 

Instead, get much brighter LED tail lights.  IMHO way more bang for your buck.

 

From: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of robincamblin
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2020 5:21 PM
To: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>; MGB List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 3rd Brakelight on GT

 

Yes, 24.95 off Amazon easy wiringinto existing harness.

 

Rob Camblin 

 

 

 

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

 

 

-------- Original message --------

From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net> > 

Date: 8/17/20 5:18 PM (GMT-06:00) 

To: MGB List <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net> > 

Subject: [Mgs] 3rd Brakelight on GT 

 

Anyone installed a third brakelight on an MGB GT?  Pictures?  Schematics?

Mike MacLean

69 MGB GT

60 Bugeye

56 BN2 LeMans

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Aug 18 01:32:36 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 08:32:36 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] '74 MGB ignition switch?
References: <83da8906-c098-da31-d6ff-48047b981c6f@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <22E0D0E4A734446EA5003582B7CEA3EB@paul>

On a UK 73 there is a small grub-screw visible with the column in-situ and 
that holds the switch in, see http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/images/slock4.jpg, 
and that takes seconds.

However I suspect you will have a different column, but from pictures 
Googled it looks like the screw is facing the driver once the cowl is 
removed.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> How difficult is it to replace just the electrical portion of a 1974 MGB 
> ignition switch? 


From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue Aug 18 01:39:05 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 08:39:05 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 3rd Brakelight on GT
References: <1933632985.3447965.1597702669398@mail.yahoo.com>
 <20200817222157.098E4A101F@autox.team.net>
 <002f01d674fe$a54695b0$efd3c110$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <26C6011330A74B7C804FC109D398B984@paul>

There is a huge variation in the performance of LED lighting.  Some have brighter tail lights that end up giving you less differentiation to stop lights which to me makes things worse.

The very fact that people have got used to seeing if not expecting a 3rd brake light surely means that fitting one would be beneficial.  2 wires, the 12v wire to the green/purple by the right-hand rear light cluster where there should be a spare hole in a 4-way bullet connector, and a convenient earth.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  Before you go to the trouble, do some research.  When the third brake light was first introduced, it definitely caused a reduction in rear end collisions because it was novel and new.  After a few years its effectiveness was in dispute because people had gotten used to it and it no longer was novel or new.  
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From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Tue Aug 18 19:45:22 2020
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 21:45:22 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
Message-ID: <782yHsBSw9616Set.1597801522@web13.cms.usa.net>

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From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Tue Aug 18 20:58:46 2020
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 22:58:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 3rd Brakelight on GT
Message-ID: <950yHsc6U4576Set.1597805926@web12.cms.usa.net>

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed Aug 19 01:59:06 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 08:59:06 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
References: <782yHsBSw9616Set.1597801522@web13.cms.usa.net>
Message-ID: <39B3FE050A5149B699A929C2DCEC8F33@paul>

I take it you mean the inner of the right-angle drive is stuck in the speedo?  No experience of those but where the cable goes direct into the speedo it's just a loose-fitting square drive.

You may already know this but the routing on LHD cars did change at various times from going across the car behind the dash and needing a right-angle drive, to going across in the engine compartment then straight through the bulkhead into the back of the speedo i.e. no right-angle drive.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  I've got the speedometer out of the dash and out of the car, but the "inner" of the speedo cable is still very securely attached to the speedometer, and tugging on it with pliers doesn't seem to budge it at all. 
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From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Wed Aug 19 16:07:01 2020
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 18:07:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
Message-ID: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>


Update: Mine had no angle-drive at the speedo, just an angle drive on the
transmission end.

 I just had feet of "inner" cable attached to the speedo and unwilling to come
away from it. 

Following advice here and elsewhere, I grabbed the cable with pliers and
wiggled and pulled and it did come loose!

Now it is reinstalled with a new cable, no angle drive at either end.
Unfortunately, although the odometer and trip meter work fine now, the speed
needle is very steady at "0" regardless of the speed of the car. It did work
fine being spun by an anticlockwise drill with the old cable, so I fear that
my wiggle-and-pull extra force routine has done some damage internal to the
speedo.

More research, more thinking!


From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Aug 19 16:13:52 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 15:13:52 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
In-Reply-To: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>
References: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>
Message-ID: <DF8042D3-2C57-426B-BC5F-BD9D0C68C07A@sonic.net>

I?m afraid your speedometer is damaged. If the cable protrudes too far into the instrument, it will damage the whatchamacallit, and in your case it seems to have happened ? actually being stuck is a pretty good indication it went in too far.

BTW this may have been the result of not having the proper washer on the other end of the cable. But on MGEXP there have been reports of new cables that are too long, as well.

Anyway, I don't think this is a home fix. Here are some resources:

Palo Alto Speedometer 
Nissonger
Mo-Ma Instruments


--
Max Heim
mvheim at sonic.net



> On Aug 19, 2020, at 3:07 PM, Douglas McKinnie <d.mckinnie at usa.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Update: Mine had no angle-drive at the speedo, just an angle drive on the
> transmission end.
> 
> I just had feet of "inner" cable attached to the speedo and unwilling to come
> away from it. 
> 
> Following advice here and elsewhere, I grabbed the cable with pliers and
> wiggled and pulled and it did come loose!
> 
> Now it is reinstalled with a new cable, no angle drive at either end.
> Unfortunately, although the odometer and trip meter work fine now, the speed
> needle is very steady at "0" regardless of the speed of the car. It did work
> fine being spun by an anticlockwise drill with the old cable, so I fear that
> my wiggle-and-pull extra force routine has done some damage internal to the
> speedo.
> 
> More research, more thinking!
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
> 


From mgbobh at gmail.com  Wed Aug 19 16:50:04 2020
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 18:50:04 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
In-Reply-To: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>
References: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>
Message-ID: <630FF1B1-E186-4EF5-975B-A40C29812167@gmail.com>

    You may have bounced the needle to the other side of what looks like a pin at 3-4 mph.  It is flexible (might even be a tiny spring).  If that happened, needle will not be able to get past the pin and will max at 3-4 mph, steadily. 
    That the works were eviscerated by your pulling out the cable seems unlikely. 
   When the bezel and glass are off, try pushing the pin over and setting the needle to zero.  Pull it straight off the shaft; push it straight on.  Once set at zero, push the pin over, then rest the parked needle on the pin.
   Are you taking this opportunity to fit LEDs into the instruments?
Bob


> On Aug 19, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Douglas McKinnie <d.mckinnie at usa.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Update: Mine had no angle-drive at the speedo, just an angle drive on the
> transmission end.
> 
> I just had feet of "inner" cable attached to the speedo and unwilling to come
> away from it. 
> 
> Following advice here and elsewhere, I grabbed the cable with pliers and
> wiggled and pulled and it did come loose!
> 
> Now it is reinstalled with a new cable, no angle drive at either end.
> Unfortunately, although the odometer and trip meter work fine now, the speed
> needle is very steady at "0" regardless of the speed of the car. It did work
> fine being spun by an anticlockwise drill with the old cable, so I fear that
> my wiggle-and-pull extra force routine has done some damage internal to the
> speedo.
> 
> More research, more thinking!
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Aug 19 17:32:55 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 23:32:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
In-Reply-To: <630FF1B1-E186-4EF5-975B-A40C29812167@gmail.com>
References: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>
 <630FF1B1-E186-4EF5-975B-A40C29812167@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1699037106.4686132.1597879975565@mail.yahoo.com>

 Try this info.Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1060 Bugeye1956 BN2 LeMans

    On Wednesday, August 19, 2020, 3:50:17 PM PDT, Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 ? ? You may have bounced the needle to the other side of what looks like a pin at 3-4 mph.? It is flexible (might even be a tiny spring).? If that happened, needle will not be able to get past the pin and will max at 3-4 mph, steadily. 
? ? That the works were eviscerated by your pulling out the cable seems unlikely. 
? When the bezel and glass are off, try pushing the pin over and setting the needle to zero.? Pull it straight off the shaft; push it straight on.? Once set at zero, push the pin over, then rest the parked needle on the pin.
? Are you taking this opportunity to fit LEDs into the instruments?
Bob


> On Aug 19, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Douglas McKinnie <d.mckinnie at usa.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Update: Mine had no angle-drive at the speedo, just an angle drive on the
> transmission end.
> 
> I just had feet of "inner" cable attached to the speedo and unwilling to come
> away from it. 
> 
> Following advice here and elsewhere, I grabbed the cable with pliers and
> wiggled and pulled and it did come loose!
> 
> Now it is reinstalled with a new cable, no angle drive at either end.
> Unfortunately, although the odometer and trip meter work fine now, the speed
> needle is very steady at "0" regardless of the speed of the car. It did work
> fine being spun by an anticlockwise drill with the old cable, so I fear that
> my wiggle-and-pull extra force routine has done some damage internal to the
> speedo.
> 
> More research, more thinking!
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From d.mckinnie at usa.net  Wed Aug 19 17:59:01 2020
From: d.mckinnie at usa.net (Douglas McKinnie)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 19:59:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
In-Reply-To: <630FF1B1-E186-4EF5-975B-A40C29812167@gmail.com>
References: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>
 <630FF1B1-E186-4EF5-975B-A40C29812167@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <047yHsX7B1072Set.1597881541@web08.cms.usa.net>


Further update -- 

With the bezel off, I bumped the needle to see if it was caught on the pin-
what I found was that it was would move stiffly, as if something was in
contact with the disk behind.

I pulled the Speedo out of the dash again and pulled out the bulb-holder a
little bit, and this let the needle move freely.

Did a quick test drive around the block - mostly 30MPH but a short 45MPH
section, and the speedo worked, and matched the speed shown on my GPS
exactly.

The needle is a little bouncy when accellerating/decelerating, and I can hear
it rotating, so I suspect that the new cable needs lubrication right out of
the box. Time to work out what lubricant is best for this purpose.

A new choke cable should be arriving within a day or two, so I'll be quite
used to sticking my hand behind the dash by the end of the weekend.


From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed Aug 19 18:02:09 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 00:02:09 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
In-Reply-To: <630FF1B1-E186-4EF5-975B-A40C29812167@gmail.com>
References: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>
 <630FF1B1-E186-4EF5-975B-A40C29812167@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1189563843.4697851.1597881729303@mail.yahoo.com>

 Oops.? Wrong PDF.? I cannot find the original Smith's instrument care and installation manual buried somewhere deep in my computer.Mike M

    On Wednesday, August 19, 2020, 3:50:17 PM PDT, Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 ? ? You may have bounced the needle to the other side of what looks like a pin at 3-4 mph.? It is flexible (might even be a tiny spring).? If that happened, needle will not be able to get past the pin and will max at 3-4 mph, steadily. 
? ? That the works were eviscerated by your pulling out the cable seems unlikely. 
? When the bezel and glass are off, try pushing the pin over and setting the needle to zero.? Pull it straight off the shaft; push it straight on.? Once set at zero, push the pin over, then rest the parked needle on the pin.
? Are you taking this opportunity to fit LEDs into the instruments?
Bob


> On Aug 19, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Douglas McKinnie <d.mckinnie at usa.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Update: Mine had no angle-drive at the speedo, just an angle drive on the
> transmission end.
> 
> I just had feet of "inner" cable attached to the speedo and unwilling to come
> away from it. 
> 
> Following advice here and elsewhere, I grabbed the cable with pliers and
> wiggled and pulled and it did come loose!
> 
> Now it is reinstalled with a new cable, no angle drive at either end.
> Unfortunately, although the odometer and trip meter work fine now, the speed
> needle is very steady at "0" regardless of the speed of the car. It did work
> fine being spun by an anticlockwise drill with the old cable, so I fear that
> my wiggle-and-pull extra force routine has done some damage internal to the
> speedo.
> 
> More research, more thinking!
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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From ronfineesq at earthlink.net  Wed Aug 19 18:21:08 2020
From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 17:21:08 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
In-Reply-To: <1189563843.4697851.1597881729303@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>
 <630FF1B1-E186-4EF5-975B-A40C29812167@gmail.com>
 <1189563843.4697851.1597881729303@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <0B22CDC4A6644B168375E4E915B945EF@Inspiron660>

Is this what you are looking for?



From: Michael MacLean 
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2020 5:02 PM
To: Robert's New iPad ; MGB List 
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo

Oops.  Wrong PDF.  I cannot find the original Smith's instrument care and installation manual buried somewhere deep in my computer.
Mike M


On Wednesday, August 19, 2020, 3:50:17 PM PDT, Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote: 


    You may have bounced the needle to the other side of what looks like a pin at 3-4 mph.  It is flexible (might even be a tiny spring).  If that happened, needle will not be able to get past the pin and will max at 3-4 mph, steadily. 
    That the works were eviscerated by your pulling out the cable seems unlikely. 
  When the bezel and glass are off, try pushing the pin over and setting the needle to zero.  Pull it straight off the shaft; push it straight on.  Once set at zero, push the pin over, then rest the parked needle on the pin.
  Are you taking this opportunity to fit LEDs into the instruments?
Bob


> On Aug 19, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Douglas McKinnie <d.mckinnie at usa.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Update: Mine had no angle-drive at the speedo, just an angle drive on the
> transmission end.
> 
> I just had feet of "inner" cable attached to the speedo and unwilling to come
> away from it. 
> 
> Following advice here and elsewhere, I grabbed the cable with pliers and
> wiggled and pulled and it did come loose!
> 
> Now it is reinstalled with a new cable, no angle drive at either end.
> Unfortunately, although the odometer and trip meter work fine now, the speed
> needle is very steady at "0" regardless of the speed of the car. It did work
> fine being spun by an anticlockwise drill with the old cable, so I fear that
> my wiggle-and-pull extra force routine has done some damage internal to the
> speedo.
> 
> More research, more thinking!
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com 

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rrengineer.mike at att.net



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________

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Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Aug 19 20:58:46 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 19 Aug 2020 20:58:46 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
In-Reply-To: <1189563843.4697851.1597881729303@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>
 <630FF1B1-E186-4EF5-975B-A40C29812167@gmail.com>
 <1189563843.4697851.1597881729303@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20b443a3-b96f-ad59-55a0-0ff8e8f044b3@bradakis.com>

On 8/19/20 6:02 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> Oops.? Wrong PDF.? I cannot find the original Smith's instrument care 
> and installation manual buried somewhere deep in my computer.


Wonder if it might be in this collection:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2H2NJt34OffMDVmOTZlZWItYTcyMy00ZDhkLTliOWEtOWU1OWRhNDZhYmRl?usp=sharing

Triumph oriented, but lots of stuff that covers various other makes.

mjb.



From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Aug 20 01:36:21 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 08:36:21 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
References: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>
 <630FF1B1-E186-4EF5-975B-A40C29812167@gmail.com>
 <047yHsX7B1072Set.1597881541@web08.cms.usa.net>
Message-ID: <71153DB1C8144A44ACCDF85ED8FD4705@paul>

Do you have LEDs?  I've found that some of them foul the innards on the 
speedo and have to be spaced back a bit.

----- Original Message ----- 
> I pulled the Speedo out of the dash again and pulled out the bulb-holder a
> little bit, and this let the needle move freely.


From dan.dibiase at gmail.com  Thu Aug 20 05:33:43 2020
From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 07:33:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
In-Reply-To: <20b443a3-b96f-ad59-55a0-0ff8e8f044b3@bradakis.com>
References: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>
 <630FF1B1-E186-4EF5-975B-A40C29812167@gmail.com>
 <1189563843.4697851.1597881729303@mail.yahoo.com>
 <20b443a3-b96f-ad59-55a0-0ff8e8f044b3@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CABxEc+kYRCVxJg3cEJsuuELaT2t71uNkWPT0eS24FaKyfZxqWg@mail.gmail.com>

wow - lotsa good stuff there!

Dan D
'76 B (in the shop), '65 B (squirrel home)
Central NJ USA
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/


On Wed, Aug 19, 2020 at 10:59 PM Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> On 8/19/20 6:02 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> > Oops.  Wrong PDF.  I cannot find the original Smith's instrument care
> > and installation manual buried somewhere deep in my computer.
>
>
> Wonder if it might be in this collection:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2H2NJt34OffMDVmOTZlZWItYTcyMy00ZDhkLTliOWEtOWU1OWRhNDZhYmRl?usp=sharing
>
> Triumph oriented, but lots of stuff that covers various other makes.
>
> mjb.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu Aug 20 12:51:24 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 20 Aug 2020 18:51:24 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Speedo cable stuck in speedo
In-Reply-To: <20b443a3-b96f-ad59-55a0-0ff8e8f044b3@bradakis.com>
References: <782yHswgB5568Set.1597874821@web07.cms.usa.net>
 <630FF1B1-E186-4EF5-975B-A40C29812167@gmail.com>
 <1189563843.4697851.1597881729303@mail.yahoo.com>
 <20b443a3-b96f-ad59-55a0-0ff8e8f044b3@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <1664807819.5116255.1597949484172@mail.yahoo.com>

 Yes Mark.? The Care of Smith's Instruments is exactly the manual I was referring to.? Thank you for that and all the other great information.? Must have taken some time to amass such a trove of information.Mike M

    On Wednesday, August 19, 2020, 8:15:22 PM PDT, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:  
 
 On 8/19/20 6:02 PM, Michael MacLean wrote:
> Oops.? Wrong PDF.? I cannot find the original Smith's instrument care 
> and installation manual buried somewhere deep in my computer.


Wonder if it might be in this collection:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2H2NJt34OffMDVmOTZlZWItYTcyMy00ZDhkLTliOWEtOWU1OWRhNDZhYmRl?usp=sharing

Triumph oriented, but lots of stuff that covers various other makes.

mjb.


_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From allen.k.hess at gmail.com  Fri Aug 21 08:16:54 2020
From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 10:16:54 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB evaporative loss system
Message-ID: <19FCA107-ED21-4FF0-94A3-30F564AE2836@gmail.com>

71 mgb. A few years ago after the first startup in the Spring, I drove around the neighborhood to check things out. The car bogged down and I struggled to get home. Fuel had filled the charcoal canister and running out the bottom. The original floats showed some wear on the pivots, but not so much that I thought it would be the problem. Couldn?t find anything else so replaced the floats and valves and it has been fine since. This year I didn?t start up until May or June, same thing happened. 

Checked everything, no blockage, debris, worn parts. An internet posting mentioned the pipe union (near the fuel pump) that connects the charcoal canister to the ?widget? in the trunk. That too was clean. Purged the charcoal of gasoline (see John Twist) put it all back together. Fuel pump ticks briskly and stops before starting. I?ve driven around the neighborhood a couple more times and it seems fine. Not being able to find a cause and fix it leaves me worried about longer drives. Any thoughts?

Allen

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri Aug 21 09:27:51 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 16:27:51 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB evaporative loss system
References: <19FCA107-ED21-4FF0-94A3-30F564AE2836@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DA2C945ED33E4A2B8D0CAF901AA1180D@paul>

Fuel filling the charcoal canister is almost certainly from one or other 
float valves failing to close, and would have been accompanied by continual 
clicking of the pump with the engine not yet started.  The only other way 
would be via the fuel tank vent pipe if fuel could somehow be forced into a 
full tank, which seems unlikely.

Happening with replaced floats and valves points more to dirty fuel than 
anything else, do you have a filter before the carbs?  Standard for HIFs 
which North America got with the first 18V engines for the 1971 model year, 
and maybe earlier.

Unless you have a non-standard pump which may be overwhelming the float 
valves.

Alternatively if it only happens when driving it could be vibration causing 
the valves to open.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

> 71 mgb. A few years ago after the first startup in the Spring, I drove 
> around the neighborhood to check things out. The car bogged down and I 
> struggled to get home. Fuel had filled the charcoal canister and running 
> out the bottom. The original floats showed some wear on the pivots, but 
> not so much that I thought it would be the problem. Couldn?t find anything 
> else so replaced the floats and valves and it has been fine since. This 
> year I didn?t start up until May or June, same thing happened.
>
> Checked everything, no blockage, debris, worn parts. An internet posting 
> mentioned the pipe union (near the fuel pump) that connects the charcoal 
> canister to the ?widget? in the trunk. That too was clean. Purged the 
> charcoal of gasoline (see John Twist) put it all back together. Fuel pump 
> ticks briskly and stops before starting. I?ve driven around the 
> neighborhood a couple more times and it seems fine. Not being able to find 
> a cause and fix it leaves me worried about longer drives. Any thoughts?


From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Fri Aug 21 11:54:52 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 19:54:52 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] MGB evaporative loss system
In-Reply-To: <19FCA107-ED21-4FF0-94A3-30F564AE2836@gmail.com>
References: <19FCA107-ED21-4FF0-94A3-30F564AE2836@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003801d677e4$2bf93710$83eba530$@planet.nl>

As the '71 B still is equipped with the HS4 carbs, it may be wise to verify how the top lids of the float chambers are looking. The evaporate loss pipe and the fuel inlet are located pretty near each other. Check for correct working of the floats and check  if the needles are closing the fuel inlet correctly.
Your story looks, if the pumps does not stop timely when the float chamber has reached its correct level of fuel.
When that happens, the float chamber gets overloaded and the excess fuel will be fed into the charcoal canister.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,
Hans '71 BGT NRG W/W



-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Allen Hess
Verzonden: vrijdag 21 augustus 2020 16:17
Aan: mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: [Mgs] MGB evaporative loss system

71 mgb. A few years ago after the first startup in the Spring, I drove around the neighborhood to check things out. The car bogged down and I struggled to get home. Fuel had filled the charcoal canister and running out the bottom. The original floats showed some wear on the pivots, but not so much that I thought it would be the problem. Couldn?t find anything else so replaced the floats and valves and it has been fine since. This year I didn?t start up until May or June, same thing happened. 

Checked everything, no blockage, debris, worn parts. An internet posting mentioned the pipe union (near the fuel pump) that connects the charcoal canister to the ?widget? in the trunk. That too was clean. Purged the charcoal of gasoline (see John Twist) put it all back together. Fuel pump ticks briskly and stops before starting. I?ve driven around the neighborhood a couple more times and it seems fine. Not being able to find a cause and fix it leaves me worried about longer drives. Any thoughts?

Allen
_______________________________________________

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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From mgbobh at gmail.com  Fri Aug 21 17:21:35 2020
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 19:21:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB evaporative loss system
In-Reply-To: <003801d677e4$2bf93710$83eba530$@planet.nl>
References: <19FCA107-ED21-4FF0-94A3-30F564AE2836@gmail.com>
 <003801d677e4$2bf93710$83eba530$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <02DD03EB-8046-4E0A-982F-43AB42CDA0CA@gmail.com>

   More than a few have made the mistake of putting hoses onto the wrong pipe.
   Allen, when you checked that pipe to the fuel separator in the boot, did you blow down it from engine space to the boot, listening for bubbling in the fuel tank? Gentle lung-power should be all you need for that. If you do not hear the bubbling and feel pressure in your cheeks, that line is not adequately cleared.  It gets a crud of stale gasoline and rust that can be an effective plug.  
   I have never thought that John Twist?s purging of the charcoal was worth the bother. I prefer to get fish aquarium charcoal at the pet department and to replace that disintegrated rubber filter with a piece of Scotchbrite.  
Bob


> On Aug 21, 2020, at 1:54 PM, Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
> 
> As the '71 B still is equipped with the HS4 carbs, it may be wise to verify how the top lids of the float chambers are looking. The evaporate loss pipe and the fuel inlet are located pretty near each other. Check for correct working of the floats and check  if the needles are closing the fuel inlet correctly.
> Your story looks, if the pumps does not stop timely when the float chamber has reached its correct level of fuel.
> When that happens, the float chamber gets overloaded and the excess fuel will be fed into the charcoal canister.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Cheers,
> Hans '71 BGT NRG W/W
> 
> 
> 
> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
> Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Allen Hess
> Verzonden: vrijdag 21 augustus 2020 16:17
> Aan: mgs at autox.team.net
> Onderwerp: [Mgs] MGB evaporative loss system
> 
> 71 mgb. A few years ago after the first startup in the Spring, I drove around the neighborhood to check things out. The car bogged down and I struggled to get home. Fuel had filled the charcoal canister and running out the bottom. The original floats showed some wear on the pivots, but not so much that I thought it would be the problem. Couldn?t find anything else so replaced the floats and valves and it has been fine since. This year I didn?t start up until May or June, same thing happened. 
> 
> Checked everything, no blockage, debris, worn parts. An internet posting mentioned the pipe union (near the fuel pump) that connects the charcoal canister to the ?widget? in the trunk. That too was clean. Purged the charcoal of gasoline (see John Twist) put it all back together. Fuel pump ticks briskly and stops before starting. I?ve driven around the neighborhood a couple more times and it seems fine. Not being able to find a cause and fix it leaves me worried about longer drives. Any thoughts?
> 
> Allen
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
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From allen.k.hess at gmail.com  Fri Aug 21 19:27:26 2020
From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 21:27:26 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB evaporative loss system
In-Reply-To: <02DD03EB-8046-4E0A-982F-43AB42CDA0CA@gmail.com>
References: <02DD03EB-8046-4E0A-982F-43AB42CDA0CA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <875C6E90-C0DB-46C2-A413-493FB2D88E24@gmail.com>

I haven?t checked the fuel separator line in the way you suggest so I?ll do that. 
Thanks 
Allen

> On Aug 21, 2020, at 7:21 PM, Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> ?   More than a few have made the mistake of putting hoses onto the wrong pipe.
>   Allen, when you checked that pipe to the fuel separator in the boot, did you blow down it from engine space to the boot, listening for bubbling in the fuel tank? Gentle lung-power should be all you need for that. If you do not hear the bubbling and feel pressure in your cheeks, that line is not adequately cleared.  It gets a crud of stale gasoline and rust that can be an effective plug.  
>   I have never thought that John Twist?s purging of the charcoal was worth the bother. I prefer to get fish aquarium charcoal at the pet department and to replace that disintegrated rubber filter with a piece of Scotchbrite.  
> Bob
> 
> 
>> On Aug 21, 2020, at 1:54 PM, Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven at planet.nl> wrote:
>> 
>> As the '71 B still is equipped with the HS4 carbs, it may be wise to verify how the top lids of the float chambers are looking. The evaporate loss pipe and the fuel inlet are located pretty near each other. Check for correct working of the floats and check  if the needles are closing the fuel inlet correctly.
>> Your story looks, if the pumps does not stop timely when the float chamber has reached its correct level of fuel.
>> When that happens, the float chamber gets overloaded and the excess fuel will be fed into the charcoal canister.
>> 
>> Hope this helps.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Hans '71 BGT NRG W/W
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
>> Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Allen Hess
>> Verzonden: vrijdag 21 augustus 2020 16:17
>> Aan: mgs at autox.team.net
>> Onderwerp: [Mgs] MGB evaporative loss system
>> 
>> 71 mgb. A few years ago after the first startup in the Spring, I drove around the neighborhood to check things out. The car bogged down and I struggled to get home. Fuel had filled the charcoal canister and running out the bottom. The original floats showed some wear on the pivots, but not so much that I thought it would be the problem. Couldn?t find anything else so replaced the floats and valves and it has been fine since. This year I didn?t start up until May or June, same thing happened. 
>> 
>> Checked everything, no blockage, debris, worn parts. An internet posting mentioned the pipe union (near the fuel pump) that connects the charcoal canister to the ?widget? in the trunk. That too was clean. Purged the charcoal of gasoline (see John Twist) put it all back together. Fuel pump ticks briskly and stops before starting. I?ve driven around the neighborhood a couple more times and it seems fine. Not being able to find a cause and fix it leaves me worried about longer drives. Any thoughts?
>> 
>> Allen
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
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>> 
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>> 
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From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Aug 21 20:39:07 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Fri, 21 Aug 2020 21:39:07 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel system
Message-ID: <000001d6782d$6a16aa20$3e43fe60$@ranteer.com>

Trying to understand the MGA fuel system.

 

It appears that the gas cap does a pretty good job of sealing the gas tank.

 

So when the fuel pump sucks gas from the tank and pushes it into the
carburetors, where does the air come from to fill the void left by the
departed gasoline?

 

I don't see an air inlet anywhere.

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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Fri Aug 21 21:13:10 2020
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2020 03:13:10 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] [EXT]   MGA fuel system
In-Reply-To: <000001d6782d$6a16aa20$3e43fe60$@ranteer.com>
References: <000001d6782d$6a16aa20$3e43fe60$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <83A5220C-FDD2-4115-9DAE-E856CED66819@ur.rochester.edu>

All the caps Iv?e seen on MGAs I do not think are sealed.
On Aug 21, 2020, at 10:39 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com<mailto:dave at ranteer.com>> wrote:

Trying to understand the MGA fuel system.

It appears that the gas cap does a pretty good job of sealing the gas tank.

So when the fuel pump sucks gas from the tank and pushes it into the carburetors, where does the air come from to fill the void left by the departed gasoline?

I don?t see an air inlet anywhere.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=1Iz226zcqnhDhxwAi7c5_hGYD-KZC2UpGhereNUmSNU&s=QXW4CaBk0_yaca_c9l1TLCe-lTd3wM5HdRft4XhUybQ&e=
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Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
   585-275-5226





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From david_breneman at yahoo.com  Fri Aug 21 23:29:30 2020
From: david_breneman at yahoo.com (David Breneman)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2020 05:29:30 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] MGA fuel system
In-Reply-To: <000001d6782d$6a16aa20$3e43fe60$@ranteer.com>
References: <000001d6782d$6a16aa20$3e43fe60$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <862411064.5867253.1598074170282@mail.yahoo.com>


    On Friday, August 21, 2020, 7:39:13 PM PDT, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:  
 > Trying to understand the MGA fuel system.
> It appears that the gas cap does a pretty good job of sealing the 
> gas tank.
> So when the fuel pump sucks gas from the tank and pushes it into the 
> carburetors, where does the air come from to fill the void left by the 
> departed gasoline?
?
In my experience, it's like the gas caps on most cars of the 50s and 60s.If keeps gas from sloshing out if the tank is full, but it's far from a completeseal.? Air will seep in.

  
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat Aug 22 01:54:23 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2020 08:54:23 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB evaporative loss system
References: <19FCA107-ED21-4FF0-94A3-30F564AE2836@gmail.com>
 <003801d677e4$2bf93710$83eba530$@planet.nl>
 <02DD03EB-8046-4E0A-982F-43AB42CDA0CA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <B790EDD584D34806B39A06CE76F82BB4@paul>

Wouldn't you have to remove the sealed filler cap to be able to blow through 
the tank vent?

And doesn't the vent come off the top of the tank so you wouldn't hear any 
bubbling anyway?

If that pipe is blocked you get fuel starvation as air cannot replace the 
fuel used when running, it can't put fuel in the canister.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
>   Allen, when you checked that pipe to the fuel separator in the boot, did 
> you blow down it from engine space to the boot, listening for bubbling in 
> the fuel tank? Gentle lung-power should be all you need for that. If you 
> do not hear the bubbling and feel pressure in your cheeks, that line is 
> not adequately cleared.  It gets a crud of stale gasoline and rust that 
> can be an effective plug.


From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat Aug 22 01:55:55 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2020 08:55:55 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] [EXT]   MGA fuel system
References: <000001d6782d$6a16aa20$3e43fe60$@ranteer.com>
 <83A5220C-FDD2-4115-9DAE-E856CED66819@ur.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <C7DCFA3AF1B946C59EB4D81FD2BE5809@paul>

Only cars with emissions controls including the charcoal canister should have a sealed filler cap.  Other than that it has to be vented or it causes fuel starvation when running.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  All the caps Iv?e seen on MGAs I do not think are sealed. 

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From allen.k.hess at gmail.com  Sat Aug 22 09:02:08 2020
From: allen.k.hess at gmail.com (Allen Hess)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2020 11:02:08 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB evaporative loss system
In-Reply-To: <B790EDD584D34806B39A06CE76F82BB4@paul>
References: <B790EDD584D34806B39A06CE76F82BB4@paul>
Message-ID: <56CC6095-BF94-4C03-8CEB-BB8ED3E77FE3@gmail.com>

I think Paul is right about this. I removed the fuel separator from its mount for easier access. I disconnected the top hose (19/32?) and blew into the separator. With the filler cap on, the air and fumes blow back out. With the filler cap off you can feel air coming out. Then removed rubber hose going to charcoal canister. Blew through the separator top hose and my assistant reported a good stream of air. So that system seems good. 

Fuel pump is original as far as I know and maybe there is a very sporadic issue in which it does not shut off. Both times have been the first drive after winter storage. 

Thanks for the info and I?ll go for another longer drive. 
Allen

> On Aug 22, 2020, at 6:38 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote:
> 
> ?Wouldn't you have to remove the sealed filler cap to be able to blow through the tank vent?
> 
> And doesn't the vent come off the top of the tank so you wouldn't hear any bubbling anyway?
> 
> If that pipe is blocked you get fuel starvation as air cannot replace the fuel used when running, it can't put fuel in the canister.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>  Allen, when you checked that pipe to the fuel separator in the boot, did you blow down it from engine space to the boot, listening for bubbling in the fuel tank? Gentle lung-power should be all you need for that. If you do not hear the bubbling and feel pressure in your cheeks, that line is not adequately cleared.  It gets a crud of stale gasoline and rust that can be an effective plug.
> 

From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat Aug 22 09:13:50 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2020 16:13:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB evaporative loss system
References: <B790EDD584D34806B39A06CE76F82BB4@paul>
 <56CC6095-BF94-4C03-8CEB-BB8ED3E77FE3@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <12A1FABCFD834B20A1A092595CED7A7D@paul>

That is when float valve problems would be more likely.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 

Fuel pump is original as far as I know and maybe there is a very sporadic 
issue in which it does not shut off. Both times have been the first drive 
after winter storage.


From thgun at comporium.net  Sat Aug 22 18:54:35 2020
From: thgun at comporium.net (Thomas Gunderson)
Date: Sat, 22 Aug 2020 20:54:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1957 MGA Wiper arms
Message-ID: <02694747-42CB-4811-81B7-1966F38AA574@comporium.net>

Where can I find the wiper arms that fit correct? 
Tom Gunderson
1957 MGA rst

Sent from my iPhone X



From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Aug 23 20:16:06 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2020 21:16:06 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] simple question
Message-ID: <009301d679bc$8692aba0$93b802e0$@ranteer.com>

The brake and clutch use the same box, the same container of fluid.

 

If the master is full of fluid but there is air in the brake lines (they are
sealed but need to be bled), will this affect the clutch?

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Sun Aug 23 20:24:55 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2020 19:24:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] simple question
In-Reply-To: <009301d679bc$8692aba0$93b802e0$@ranteer.com>
References: <009301d679bc$8692aba0$93b802e0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88EER6skdQVtyxOTkwqRwk27Su3MJ2F1sB=JxWqXzO_bQ@mail.gmail.com>

if they share one reservoir and the fluid gets too low or empty, then yes,
you could potentially suck air into the clutch
Ira Erbs
Milwaukie,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


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On Sun, Aug 23, 2020 at 7:16 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> The brake and clutch use the same box, the same container of fluid.
>
>
>
> If the master is full of fluid but there is air in the brake lines (they
> are sealed but need to be bled), will this affect the clutch?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
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From d-smittle at onu.edu  Sun Aug 23 20:32:35 2020
From: d-smittle at onu.edu (David Smittle)
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2020 22:32:35 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] simple question
In-Reply-To: <CABXhz88EER6skdQVtyxOTkwqRwk27Su3MJ2F1sB=JxWqXzO_bQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <009301d679bc$8692aba0$93b802e0$@ranteer.com>
 <CABXhz88EER6skdQVtyxOTkwqRwk27Su3MJ2F1sB=JxWqXzO_bQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAEz+G_LkYRo9sKTgSiTLn=AzKYjrJaNxp3okz7Oamb-UC3Gviw@mail.gmail.com>

Regarding the original question, no, it won't affect the clutch. There are
different pistons for brake vs clutch in the shared master cylinder.
Depressing the clutch petal will simply use fluid from the reservoir and
activate the slave cylinder (or, at least it should, lol) irregardless if
the brakes have been bled yet or not.

Hope this helps. Good luck with your project!

Dave

--
David Smittle
Ada, OH
d-smittle at onu.edu

On Sun, Aug 23, 2020, 10:25 PM i erbs <eyera3000 at gmail.com> wrote:

> if they share one reservoir and the fluid gets too low or empty, then yes,
> you could potentially suck air into the clutch
> Ira Erbs
> Milwaukie,OR
>       _______                                  _______
>      (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
>          (_________________________)
>           BT7 engine and disk brakes
>
>
> 1967 MGB  [image: MG]
>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words
>
>
>
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail> Virus-free.
> www.avg.com
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>
> On Sun, Aug 23, 2020 at 7:16 PM dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>
>> The brake and clutch use the same box, the same container of fluid.
>>
>>
>>
>> If the master is full of fluid but there is air in the brake lines (they
>> are sealed but need to be bled), will this affect the clutch?
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Aug 24 01:28:48 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 08:28:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] simple question
References: <009301d679bc$8692aba0$93b802e0$@ranteer.com>
 <CABXhz88EER6skdQVtyxOTkwqRwk27Su3MJ2F1sB=JxWqXzO_bQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <CAEz+G_LkYRo9sKTgSiTLn=AzKYjrJaNxp3okz7Oamb-UC3Gviw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DD3EF08E40F14D6E8A982B17519D0D6B@paul>

The two cylinders AND pistons should be separate, and one would hope there is a 'wall' between the two halves of the reservoir as there is in dual brake masters, so a fault in one circuit/system doesn't stop the other one working as well.
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  Regarding the original question, no, it won't affect the clutch. There are different pistons for brake vs clutch in the shared master cylinder. Depressing the clutch petal will simply use fluid from the reservoir and activate the slave cylinder (or, at least it should, lol) irregardless if the brakes have been bled yet or not.
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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Mon Aug 24 05:39:56 2020
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 07:39:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] simple question
In-Reply-To: <009301d679bc$8692aba0$93b802e0$@ranteer.com>
References: <009301d679bc$8692aba0$93b802e0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <12CCDDA3-A989-4F0E-A3CA-0F30C6D3369D@gmail.com>

  If the master cylinder has been full all along, then it would not have admitted air to clutch or to brake systems.
  If the clutch is not working properly, the problem is within the clutch system.  Check that the slave cylinder is not leaking. If it is, might as well rebuild or replace now. It it is not leaking, bleed the clutch line. 
   Clutches can often be difficult to bleed, using a lot of fluid in the process.  Keep a watch on the master cylinder to be sure that its fluid level is sufficient. 
Bob


> On Aug 23, 2020, at 10:16 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> The brake and clutch use the same box, the same container of fluid.
>  
> If the master is full of fluid but there is air in the brake lines (they are sealed but need to be bled), will this affect the clutch?
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Aug 24 06:07:52 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 13:07:52 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] simple question
References: <009301d679bc$8692aba0$93b802e0$@ranteer.com>
 <12CCDDA3-A989-4F0E-A3CA-0F30C6D3369D@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5C4A56E169BF44178A02EF1990C1DB5C@paul>

Given the initial question is this likely to be an MGB?  In not then without knowing what car it is one can't really say what is or isn't likely.  And I'm sure there have been cases where MGB systems with fluid in the reservoir have got air in the system from a defect.

----- Original Message ----- 


    If the master cylinder has been full all along, then it would not have admitted air to clutch or to brake systems.
    If the clutch is not working properly, the problem is within the clutch system.  Check that the slave cylinder is not leaking. If it is, might as well rebuild or replace now. It it is not leaking, bleed the clutch line. 
     Clutches can often be difficult to bleed, using a lot of fluid in the process.  Keep a watch on the master cylinder to be sure that its fluid level is sufficient. 
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon Aug 24 10:29:47 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 09:29:47 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] simple question
In-Reply-To: <5C4A56E169BF44178A02EF1990C1DB5C@paul>
References: <009301d679bc$8692aba0$93b802e0$@ranteer.com>
 <12CCDDA3-A989-4F0E-A3CA-0F30C6D3369D@gmail.com>
 <5C4A56E169BF44178A02EF1990C1DB5C@paul>
Message-ID: <6F97A2A3-FD9F-4DF4-B71C-07EBF50D1A19@sonic.net>

That was my question. I wasn?t aware that any MGs had a shared reservoir for brake and clutch fluid. So what car are we talking about?


--
Max Heim
'66 MGB



> On Aug 24, 2020, at 5:07 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote:
> 
> Given the initial question is this likely to be an MGB?  In not then without knowing what car it is one can't really say what is or isn't likely.  And I'm sure there have been cases where MGB systems with fluid in the reservoir have got air in the system from a defect.
>  
> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>>   If the master cylinder has been full all along, then it would not have admitted air to clutch or to brake systems.
>>   If the clutch is not working properly, the problem is within the clutch system.  Check that the slave cylinder is not leaking. If it is, might as well rebuild or replace now. It it is not leaking, bleed the clutch line. 
>>    Clutches can often be difficult to bleed, using a lot of fluid in the process.  Keep a watch on the master cylinder to be sure that its fluid level is sufficient. 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

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From lrc at red4est.com  Mon Aug 24 14:58:47 2020
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 13:58:47 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] The good, the bad, and the funny
Message-ID: <6C79D534-7999-4EBF-BA13-A05E289DEC5C@red4est.com>


The good news is that it looks like my house in Felton, in the Santa Cruz mountains will be spared from the fire. 

The bad news: My friend Pete who races the ZomBee MGB in LeMons wrote a heartbreaking story about nearly saving his house, and just barely escaping.

The funny:  We started packing when we went on evacuation warning, we didn't wait until mandatory evacuation. When Dick and Rochelle Nyquist (who I first met through the SOL list 30 years ago) barely escaped from a fire a few years back, that was a real wake up call. I already had a mental checklist of most of the high priority stuff to pack into my van.  When the van was full, we still hadn't gotten the mandatory evac notice, so I started packing the trailer.  I've been storing Jasmine, my BGT, in the trailer.  I don't have the resources to finish getting her back on the road, and I need the garage for other work.  Unloading the MG from the trailer would have taken more time than I felt I had, so I grabbed the blower, and a couple of other key pieces, put them in the passenger seat and just packed around her. 

A friend in Santa Cruz is letting me store the car at his place, so now I even have room in the trailer and have cleared out most of the stuff from our other cars.  

From dwoerpel at wi.net  Mon Aug 24 15:55:39 2020
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (David Woerpel)
Date: Mon, 24 Aug 2020 16:55:39 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] The good, the bad, and the funny
In-Reply-To: <6C79D534-7999-4EBF-BA13-A05E289DEC5C@red4est.com>
References: <6C79D534-7999-4EBF-BA13-A05E289DEC5C@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <62f58bcf-88b0-07d2-0ce2-ad9dc44ca7a2@wi.net>

Larry, our hearts and prayers go out to you and all affected by this 
conflagration.? All this on top of COVID, shootings, storms in the Gulf 
(we're with you too folks!).? If I may speak for the list, Be like 
Larry, anticipate, if you can, /Safety Fast/ and First!? God speed.

Dave W.

1959 :{)
1959 MGA 1500

Burlington WI

"Pay It Forward"



On 8/24/2020 3:58 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
> The good news is that it looks like my house in Felton, in the Santa Cruz mountains will be spared from the fire.
>
> The bad news: My friend Pete who races the ZomBee MGB in LeMons wrote a heartbreaking story about nearly saving his house, and just barely escaping.
>
> The funny:  We started packing when we went on evacuation warning, we didn't wait until mandatory evacuation. When Dick and Rochelle Nyquist (who I first met through the SOL list 30 years ago) barely escaped from a fire a few years back, that was a real wake up call. I already had a mental checklist of most of the high priority stuff to pack into my van.  When the van was full, we still hadn't gotten the mandatory evac notice, so I started packing the trailer.  I've been storing Jasmine, my BGT, in the trailer.  I don't have the resources to finish getting her back on the road, and I need the garage for other work.  Unloading the MG from the trailer would have taken more time than I felt I had, so I grabbed the blower, and a couple of other key pieces, put them in the passenger seat and just packed around her.
>
> A friend in Santa Cruz is letting me store the car at his place, so now I even have room in the trailer and have cleared out most of the stuff from our other cars.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dwoerpel at wi.net
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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Tue Aug 25 09:09:52 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 17:09:52 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] The good, the bad, and the funny
In-Reply-To: <6C79D534-7999-4EBF-BA13-A05E289DEC5C@red4est.com>
References: <6C79D534-7999-4EBF-BA13-A05E289DEC5C@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <003b01d67af1$c8d5a540$5a80efc0$@planet.nl>

Take care Larry. Hope the damage will be limted. Keep safe.

Cheers,
Hans

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Larry Colen
Verzonden: maandag 24 augustus 2020 22:59
Aan: Mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: [Mgs] The good, the bad, and the funny


The good news is that it looks like my house in Felton, in the Santa Cruz
mountains will be spared from the fire. 

The bad news: My friend Pete who races the ZomBee MGB in LeMons wrote a
heartbreaking story about nearly saving his house, and just barely escaping.

The funny:  We started packing when we went on evacuation warning, we didn't
wait until mandatory evacuation. When Dick and Rochelle Nyquist (who I first
met through the SOL list 30 years ago) barely escaped from a fire a few
years back, that was a real wake up call. I already had a mental checklist
of most of the high priority stuff to pack into my van.  When the van was
full, we still hadn't gotten the mandatory evac notice, so I started packing
the trailer.  I've been storing Jasmine, my BGT, in the trailer.  I don't
have the resources to finish getting her back on the road, and I need the
garage for other work.  Unloading the MG from the trailer would have taken
more time than I felt I had, so I grabbed the blower, and a couple of other
key pieces, put them in the passenger seat and just packed around her. 

A friend in Santa Cruz is letting me store the car at his place, so now I
even have room in the trailer and have cleared out most of the stuff from
our other cars.  
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl


-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus


From frankk12 at verizon.net  Tue Aug 25 09:46:00 2020
From: frankk12 at verizon.net (Frank Krajewski)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 11:46:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Seat Belts
References: <e2569100-f282-ba8d-0f93-efc722e0863f.ref@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <e2569100-f282-ba8d-0f93-efc722e0863f@verizon.net>

Finally woke my 1980 MGBLE from a long slumber? and took it for a shake 
down cruise. All is well except the driver's side side belt has lost its 
tension. It just unfurls but does not provide any protection. I remember 
a recall many years ago that was administered by Jaguar. I? submitted 
all the required info and was promised replacements which have never 
arrived. Is there a fix for this problem or are there original 
replacement belts available?

Frank Krajewski




From lundgren at byu.net  Tue Aug 25 10:01:50 2020
From: lundgren at byu.net (Andrew Lundgren)
Date: Tue, 25 Aug 2020 10:01:50 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Seat Belts
In-Reply-To: <e2569100-f282-ba8d-0f93-efc722e0863f@verizon.net>
References: <e2569100-f282-ba8d-0f93-efc722e0863f.ref@verizon.net>
 <e2569100-f282-ba8d-0f93-efc722e0863f@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <CAKr3Jn1p1Tsoor1F4pGcqVVeBsjt-8KcJzHPHVEwD=5-Jbxdzg@mail.gmail.com>

I bought a securon set last year. They don't look exactly the same, but do
the job well enough.

I think moss has a few options as well.

--
Andrew

On Tue, Aug 25, 2020 at 9:46 AM Frank Krajewski <frankk12 at verizon.net>
wrote:

> Finally woke my 1980 MGBLE from a long slumber  and took it for a shake
> down cruise. All is well except the driver's side side belt has lost its
> tension. It just unfurls but does not provide any protection. I remember
> a recall many years ago that was administered by Jaguar. I  submitted
> all the required info and was promised replacements which have never
> arrived. Is there a fix for this problem or are there original
> replacement belts available?
>
> Frank Krajewski
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lundgren at byu.net
>
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed Aug 26 01:32:50 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 26 Aug 2020 08:32:50 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Seat Belts
References: <e2569100-f282-ba8d-0f93-efc722e0863f.ref@verizon.net>
 <e2569100-f282-ba8d-0f93-efc722e0863f@verizon.net>
 <CAKr3Jn1p1Tsoor1F4pGcqVVeBsjt-8KcJzHPHVEwD=5-Jbxdzg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1E3E93193E294764B4BF7935602BE108@paul>

Didn't get the original of this (which happens from time to time) but seat belts can have two methods of locking.  One is when the car tilts or decelerates more than a certain amount, the other is if the belt is yanked out of the reel fast enough, and not all belts have both.

You have to be careful with replacements - the length of the tunnel piece can vary as there were two mounting positions several inches apart, and they can be either belts in a plastic sheath (original in some years), stiff steel cable in a plastic sheath (later and better), but the worst are plain belts where the buckle can drop out of sight.  

Some reels are advertised as being suitable for mounting at any angle as they have adjusters on them to ensure the belts lock correctly, which they do, but need special brackets on the MGB especially on top of the arches in a GT.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
    Finally woke my 1980 MGBLE from a long slumber  and took it for a shake 
    down cruise. All is well except the driver's side side belt has lost its 
    tension. It just unfurls but does not provide any protection. I remember 
    a recall many years ago that was administered by Jaguar. I  submitted 
    all the required info and was promised replacements which have never 
    arrived. Is there a fix for this problem or are there original 
    replacement belts available?
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From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Aug 31 17:20:45 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2020 18:20:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] MGA sighting
Message-ID: <000001d67fed$5a97c1c0$0fc74540$@ranteer.com>

I was just west of downtown Dallas today and came across this sign.  

 

Apparently it's a swanky steak house with the MGA parked prominently inside

 

https://www.dallasnews.com/food/restaurant-reviews/2017/04/26/town-hearth-ma
y-be-the-swankiest-most-fabulous-steakhouse-on-the-planet/

 

 

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