From barrob at bell.net  Tue Jul  7 09:59:37 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 11:59:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] LED instrument lights
Message-ID: <3e60cda9-4d81-43a2-16c4-3682d30a408d@bell.net>

Hello Folks,

I have installed a SpeedHut speedo and tacho in my MGB GT V8 (not a 
factory one) and they are superb.? But the dimmer does not work on 
them.? So I have decided to put LED bulbs in the remaining four smaller 
gauges and this means I have to install a LED dimmer for all six 
gauges.?? SpeedHut supply an LED dimmer but despite many emails I cannot 
find how their dimmer hooks up with their gauges and my to-be-installed 
LEDs in the smaller four. (Probably affected by the dreaded virus - 
which we know is a hoax).? I do not to know what LED bulbs I get for my 
4 small gauges - and I need the new stronger ones.?? I bought LEDs a 
while way back and they were no stronger than the incandescents !!!

So is there anyone who is into this subject as your help would be much 
appreciated.

I do hope that all is well with you and yours.? We are not doing badly 
and so far the dreaded lurgy has not come near us - but taking super 
precautions including face masks.

Cheers
Barrie
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From ptroot at gmail.com  Tue Jul  7 10:43:12 2020
From: ptroot at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 11:43:12 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] LED instrument lights
In-Reply-To: <3e60cda9-4d81-43a2-16c4-3682d30a408d@bell.net>
References: <3e60cda9-4d81-43a2-16c4-3682d30a408d@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CAPxc_gGX0ncO7UjD8GpAEfbNB9adi7UO7XCKDbTOxXJjT6htpA@mail.gmail.com>

Long ago, I just removed my dimmer completely, and installed LED lights.
They are never so bright as to be distracting, but do work fine. All stock
gauges. I think I got the bulbs from Little British Car Co. But like I
said, years ago, I don't really remember.

Is it this one?
https://www.speedhut.com/ecommerce/product/780/Gauge-Lighting-Inverter-for-Multiple-Gauges-with-Dimmer

This makes it sound like there is a separate line to each of 8 lights. But
that you can add a splitter to get more if needed.

Have you tried the LEDs without a dimmer?


On Tue, Jul 7, 2020 at 11:00 AM Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:

> Hello Folks,
>
> I have installed a SpeedHut speedo and tacho in my MGB GT V8 (not a
> factory one) and they are superb.  But the dimmer does not work on them.
> So I have decided to put LED bulbs in the remaining four smaller gauges and
> this means I have to install a LED dimmer for all six gauges.   SpeedHut
> supply an LED dimmer but despite many emails I cannot find how their dimmer
> hooks up with their gauges and my to-be-installed LEDs in the smaller four.
> (Probably affected by the dreaded virus - which we know is a hoax).  I do
> not to know what LED bulbs I get for my 4 small gauges - and I need the new
> stronger ones.   I bought LEDs a while way back and they were no stronger
> than the incandescents !!!
>
> So is there anyone who is into this subject as your help would be much
> appreciated.
>
> I do hope that all is well with you and yours.  We are not doing badly and
> so far the dreaded lurgy has not come near us - but taking super
> precautions including face masks.
>
> Cheers
> Barrie
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgb-v8 at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgb-v8/ptroot at gmail.com
>
>
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue Jul  7 11:00:35 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 10:00:35 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] LED instrument lights
In-Reply-To: <3e60cda9-4d81-43a2-16c4-3682d30a408d@bell.net>
References: <3e60cda9-4d81-43a2-16c4-3682d30a408d@bell.net>
Message-ID: <67AE189E-45E3-4A19-8ACE-05B30F14EB30@sonic.net>

I bought these LEDs for the instruments in my 1966 B, from LEDLight.com.

Product ID 57567
#1487 Miniature Bulb E10 Base 5 5050 12V Dim-able T3 1/4
Color: Warm White 3000K
$2.42 ea.

Note that there are brighter bulbs, but they contain more LED elements and are longer, and will not fit in the fuel or combo gauge locations. The number after the word ?Base? indicates the number of elements. The next size would be a ?9?.

I chose Warm White to simulate the color of the incandescent bulbs. I had tried the Bright White bulbs but I didn't like the effect ? it was slightly bluish and actually tended to wash out the lettering on the gauges.

I did not use LEDs in the turn signal indicators because I didn't see any need for them to be brighter.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On Jul 7, 2020, at 8:59 AM, Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:
> 
> Hello Folks,
> 
> I have installed a SpeedHut speedo and tacho in my MGB GT V8 (not a factory one) and they are superb.  But the dimmer does not work on them.  So I have decided to put LED bulbs in the remaining four smaller gauges and this means I have to install a LED dimmer for all six gauges.   SpeedHut supply an LED dimmer but despite many emails I cannot find how their dimmer hooks up with their gauges and my to-be-installed LEDs in the smaller four. (Probably affected by the dreaded virus - which we know is a hoax).  I do not to know what LED bulbs I get for my 4 small gauges - and I need the new stronger ones.   I bought LEDs a while way back and they were no stronger than the incandescents !!! 
> 
> So is there anyone who is into this subject as your help would be much appreciated.
> 
> I do hope that all is well with you and yours.  We are not doing badly and so far the dreaded lurgy has not come near us - but taking super precautions including face masks.
> 
> Cheers
> Barrie
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

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From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue Jul  7 14:37:37 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 13:37:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] LED instrument lights
In-Reply-To: <b5cba68e-b443-e8bc-1abd-c8b2d6f7cc51@bell.net>
References: <3e60cda9-4d81-43a2-16c4-3682d30a408d@bell.net>
 <67AE189E-45E3-4A19-8ACE-05B30F14EB30@sonic.net>
 <b5cba68e-b443-e8bc-1abd-c8b2d6f7cc51@bell.net>
Message-ID: <13595AA0-9B2F-44A8-8BE9-13CB156C00AB@sonic.net>

I used these bulbs just for the instrument panel lamps. The instrument panel turn signal indicators would take the same bulb.

Although the bulbs are advertised as ?dim-able? in my experience they are either on or off ? full brightness or not visible. It could very well be that a electronic dimmer is required, and they don't ?dim? with the old-fashioned rheostat.

The tail and stop lamps take a different base, and one would want the largest/brightest unit available. I installed the ones offered by Moss Motors.

I tried the LEDs offered by Moss for the front turn indicators, but they didn?t work on my car ? they were too long. When I tightened down the lens screws, it pressed the bulb down into the socket, cutting off the current. Later I figured out that I could have doubled up on the foam gaskets and prevented this.

Note that using LEDs in the turn signal circuit requires one to install a electronic flasher unit.

LED headlamp conversions are a more complex subject which I have not investigated.


--
Max Heim
mvheim at sonic.net



> On Jul 7, 2020, at 12:49 PM, Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:
> 
> Hello Max,
> 
> That is brilliant (sorry for the pun!)
> 
> Did you by any chance get LEDs for rear brakes and turn bulbs or elsewhere ?  You don't do the turn ones but I think brighter would be better.  Do you have reference number for them and brakes ???- I looked at my bulbs but no numbers !!!!   The only place I would not use LEDs is the head light - too expensive.   
> 
> But one thing - it says you can dim with normal rheostat as used originally.   I must use a 'inverter' from SpeedHut to dim my speedo and tach - So does that mean I keep the currently installed dimmer with the LEDLight bulbs and add another dimmer for the SpeedHuts ?  Actually that's sort of sexy - individual dimming  - wow !!!!!
> 
> Your information was a relief as I was humming and harring about what to get!  
> 
> Cheers
> Barrie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On 7/7/2020 1:00 PM, Max Heim wrote:
>> I bought these LEDs for the instruments in my 1966 B, from LEDLight.com <http://ledlight.com/>.
>> 
>> Product ID 57567
>> #1487 Miniature Bulb E10 Base 5 5050 12V Dim-able T3 1/4
>> Color: Warm White 3000K
>> $2.42 ea.
>> 
>> Note that there are brighter bulbs, but they contain more LED elements and are longer, and will not fit in the fuel or combo gauge locations. The number after the word ?Base? indicates the number of elements. The next size would be a ?9?.
>> 
>> I chose Warm White to simulate the color of the incandescent bulbs. I had tried the Bright White bulbs but I didn't like the effect ? it was slightly bluish and actually tended to wash out the lettering on the gauges.
>> 
>> I did not use LEDs in the turn signal indicators because I didn't see any need for them to be brighter.
>> 
>> --
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB
>> 
>>> On Jul 7, 2020, at 8:59 AM, Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net <mailto:barrob at bell.net>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello Folks,
>>> 
>>> I have installed a SpeedHut speedo and tacho in my MGB GT V8 (not a factory one) and they are superb.  But the dimmer does not work on them.  So I have decided to put LED bulbs in the remaining four smaller gauges and this means I have to install a LED dimmer for all six gauges.   SpeedHut supply an LED dimmer but despite many emails I cannot find how their dimmer hooks up with their gauges and my to-be-installed LEDs in the smaller four. (Probably affected by the dreaded virus - which we know is a hoax).  I do not to know what LED bulbs I get for my 4 small gauges - and I need the new stronger ones.   I bought LEDs a while way back and they were no stronger than the incandescents !!! 
>>> 
>>> So is there anyone who is into this subject as your help would be much appreciated.
>>> 
>>> I do hope that all is well with you and yours.  We are not doing badly and so far the dreaded lurgy has not come near us - but taking super precautions including face masks.
>>> 
>>> Cheers
>>> Barrie
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net>
>> 
> 

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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Jul  7 15:31:51 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 16:31:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] FW:  LED instrument lights
In-Reply-To: <13595AA0-9B2F-44A8-8BE9-13CB156C00AB@sonic.net>
References: <3e60cda9-4d81-43a2-16c4-3682d30a408d@bell.net>
 <67AE189E-45E3-4A19-8ACE-05B30F14EB30@sonic.net>
 <b5cba68e-b443-e8bc-1abd-c8b2d6f7cc51@bell.net>
 <13595AA0-9B2F-44A8-8BE9-13CB156C00AB@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <000001d654a6$07785800$16690800$@ranteer.com>

www.litezupp.com <http://www.litezupp.com>  makes an excellent LED lightbulb which is quite literally plug and play.  Looks and has the same plug as a standard light bulb.  And is incredibly bright.  And since its an LED, it doesn?t draw much current.  Totally worth it.

 

From: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Max Heim
Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 3:38 PM
To: Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net>; MGB List <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED instrument lights

 

I used these bulbs just for the instrument panel lamps. The instrument panel turn signal indicators would take the same bulb.

 

Although the bulbs are advertised as ?dim-able? in my experience they are either on or off ? full brightness or not visible. It could very well be that a electronic dimmer is required, and they don't ?dim? with the old-fashioned rheostat.

 

The tail and stop lamps take a different base, and one would want the largest/brightest unit available. I installed the ones offered by Moss Motors.

 

I tried the LEDs offered by Moss for the front turn indicators, but they didn?t work on my car ? they were too long. When I tightened down the lens screws, it pressed the bulb down into the socket, cutting off the current. Later I figured out that I could have doubled up on the foam gaskets and prevented this.

 

Note that using LEDs in the turn signal circuit requires one to install a electronic flasher unit.

 

LED headlamp conversions are a more complex subject which I have not investigated.

 

 

--

Max Heim

mvheim at sonic.net <mailto:mvheim at sonic.net> 

 

 





On Jul 7, 2020, at 12:49 PM, Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net <mailto:barrob at bell.net> > wrote:

 

Hello Max,

That is brilliant (sorry for the pun!)

Did you by any chance get LEDs for rear brakes and turn bulbs or elsewhere ?  You don't do the turn ones but I think brighter would be better.  Do you have reference number for them and brakes ???- I looked at my bulbs but no numbers !!!!   The only place I would not use LEDs is the head light - too expensive.   

But one thing - it says you can dim with normal rheostat as used originally.   I must use a 'inverter' from SpeedHut to dim my speedo and tach - So does that mean I keep the currently installed dimmer with the LEDLight bulbs and add another dimmer for the SpeedHuts ?  Actually that's sort of sexy - individual dimming  - wow !!!!!

Your information was a relief as I was humming and harring about what to get!  

Cheers
Barrie








On 7/7/2020 1:00 PM, Max Heim wrote:

I bought these LEDs for the instruments in my 1966 B, from LEDLight.com <http://ledlight.com/> . 

 

Product ID 57567

#1487 Miniature Bulb E10 Base 5 5050 12V Dim-able T3 1/4

Color: Warm White 3000K

$2.42 ea.

 

Note that there are brighter bulbs, but they contain more LED elements and are longer, and will not fit in the fuel or combo gauge locations. The number after the word ?Base? indicates the number of elements. The next size would be a ?9?.

 

I chose Warm White to simulate the color of the incandescent bulbs. I had tried the Bright White bulbs but I didn't like the effect ? it was slightly bluish and actually tended to wash out the lettering on the gauges.

 

I did not use LEDs in the turn signal indicators because I didn't see any need for them to be brighter.

 

--

Max Heim

'66 MGB





On Jul 7, 2020, at 8:59 AM, Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net <mailto:barrob at bell.net> > wrote:

 

Hello Folks,

I have installed a SpeedHut speedo and tacho in my MGB GT V8 (not a factory one) and they are superb.  But the dimmer does not work on them.  So I have decided to put LED bulbs in the remaining four smaller gauges and this means I have to install a LED dimmer for all six gauges.   SpeedHut supply an LED dimmer but despite many emails I cannot find how their dimmer hooks up with their gauges and my to-be-installed LEDs in the smaller four. (Probably affected by the dreaded virus - which we know is a hoax).  I do not to know what LED bulbs I get for my 4 small gauges - and I need the new stronger ones.   I bought LEDs a while way back and they were no stronger than the incandescents !!! 

So is there anyone who is into this subject as your help would be much appreciated.

I do hope that all is well with you and yours.  We are not doing badly and so far the dreaded lurgy has not come near us - but taking super precautions including face masks.

Cheers
Barrie

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net> 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

 

 

 

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From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue Jul  7 16:36:13 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 15:36:13 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] FW:  LED instrument lights
In-Reply-To: <000001d654a6$07785800$16690800$@ranteer.com>
References: <3e60cda9-4d81-43a2-16c4-3682d30a408d@bell.net>
 <67AE189E-45E3-4A19-8ACE-05B30F14EB30@sonic.net>
 <b5cba68e-b443-e8bc-1abd-c8b2d6f7cc51@bell.net>
 <13595AA0-9B2F-44A8-8BE9-13CB156C00AB@sonic.net>
 <000001d654a6$07785800$16690800$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <06F09FBB-1E3C-41DA-A892-BDD00773F1FA@sonic.net>

All bulbs are literally ?plug & play?, I should think?


--
Max Heim
mvheim at sonic.net



> On Jul 7, 2020, at 2:31 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> www.litezupp.com <http://www.litezupp.com/> makes an excellent LED lightbulb which is quite literally plug and play.  Looks and has the same plug as a standard light bulb.  And is incredibly bright.  And since its an LED, it doesn?t draw much current.  Totally worth it.
>  
> From: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net>> On Behalf Of Max Heim
> Sent: Tuesday, July 7, 2020 3:38 PM
> To: Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net <mailto:barrob at bell.net>>; MGB List <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] LED instrument lights
>  
> I used these bulbs just for the instrument panel lamps. The instrument panel turn signal indicators would take the same bulb.
>  
> Although the bulbs are advertised as ?dim-able? in my experience they are either on or off ? full brightness or not visible. It could very well be that a electronic dimmer is required, and they don't ?dim? with the old-fashioned rheostat.
>  
> The tail and stop lamps take a different base, and one would want the largest/brightest unit available. I installed the ones offered by Moss Motors.
>  
> I tried the LEDs offered by Moss for the front turn indicators, but they didn?t work on my car ? they were too long. When I tightened down the lens screws, it pressed the bulb down into the socket, cutting off the current. Later I figured out that I could have doubled up on the foam gaskets and prevented this.
>  
> Note that using LEDs in the turn signal circuit requires one to install a electronic flasher unit.
>  
> LED headlamp conversions are a more complex subject which I have not investigated.
>  
>  
> --
> Max Heim
> mvheim at sonic.net <mailto:mvheim at sonic.net>
>  
>  
> 
> 
>> On Jul 7, 2020, at 12:49 PM, Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net <mailto:barrob at bell.net>> wrote:
>>  
>> Hello Max,
>> 
>> That is brilliant (sorry for the pun!)
>> 
>> Did you by any chance get LEDs for rear brakes and turn bulbs or elsewhere ?  You don't do the turn ones but I think brighter would be better.  Do you have reference number for them and brakes ???- I looked at my bulbs but no numbers !!!!   The only place I would not use LEDs is the head light - too expensive.   
>> 
>> But one thing - it says you can dim with normal rheostat as used originally.   I must use a 'inverter' from SpeedHut to dim my speedo and tach - So does that mean I keep the currently installed dimmer with the LEDLight bulbs and add another dimmer for the SpeedHuts ?  Actually that's sort of sexy - individual dimming  - wow !!!!!
>> 
>> Your information was a relief as I was humming and harring about what to get!  
>> 
>> Cheers
>> Barrie
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 7/7/2020 1:00 PM, Max Heim wrote:
>>> I bought these LEDs for the instruments in my 1966 B, from LEDLight.com <http://ledlight.com/>. 
>>>  
>>> Product ID 57567
>>> #1487 Miniature Bulb E10 Base 5 5050 12V Dim-able T3 1/4
>>> Color: Warm White 3000K
>>> $2.42 ea.
>>>  
>>> Note that there are brighter bulbs, but they contain more LED elements and are longer, and will not fit in the fuel or combo gauge locations. The number after the word ?Base? indicates the number of elements. The next size would be a ?9?.
>>>  
>>> I chose Warm White to simulate the color of the incandescent bulbs. I had tried the Bright White bulbs but I didn't like the effect ? it was slightly bluish and actually tended to wash out the lettering on the gauges.
>>>  
>>> I did not use LEDs in the turn signal indicators because I didn't see any need for them to be brighter.
>>>  
>>> --
>>> Max Heim
>>> '66 MGB
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Jul 7, 2020, at 8:59 AM, Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net <mailto:barrob at bell.net>> wrote:
>>>>  
>>>> Hello Folks,
>>>> 
>>>> I have installed a SpeedHut speedo and tacho in my MGB GT V8 (not a factory one) and they are superb.  But the dimmer does not work on them.  So I have decided to put LED bulbs in the remaining four smaller gauges and this means I have to install a LED dimmer for all six gauges.   SpeedHut supply an LED dimmer but despite many emails I cannot find how their dimmer hooks up with their gauges and my to-be-installed LEDs in the smaller four. (Probably affected by the dreaded virus - which we know is a hoax).  I do not to know what LED bulbs I get for my 4 small gauges - and I need the new stronger ones.   I bought LEDs a while way back and they were no stronger than the incandescents !!! 
>>>> 
>>>> So is there anyone who is into this subject as your help would be much appreciated.
>>>> 
>>>> I do hope that all is well with you and yours.  We are not doing badly and so far the dreaded lurgy has not come near us - but taking super precautions including face masks.
>>>> 
>>>> Cheers
>>>> Barrie
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> 
>>>> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>> 
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs>http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>>> 
>>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net>
>>>  
>>  
> 
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net>

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From stargazer1 at cox.net  Tue Jul  7 19:27:06 2020
From: stargazer1 at cox.net (David Ambrose)
Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 18:27:06 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] LED instrument lights
In-Reply-To: <13595AA0-9B2F-44A8-8BE9-13CB156C00AB@sonic.net>
References: <3e60cda9-4d81-43a2-16c4-3682d30a408d@bell.net>
 <67AE189E-45E3-4A19-8ACE-05B30F14EB30@sonic.net>
 <b5cba68e-b443-e8bc-1abd-c8b2d6f7cc51@bell.net>
 <13595AA0-9B2F-44A8-8BE9-13CB156C00AB@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <fae3e989-0d59-de22-b143-0d14cfd2d2a9@cox.net>

They draw a lot less current than the bulbs they replace. You could dim 
them, but you'd need a different rheostat. Like the electronic flashers, 
electronic dimmers are insensitive to the load current.

On 7/7/2020 1:37 PM, Max Heim wrote:
> I used these bulbs just for the instrument panel lamps. The instrument 
> panel turn signal indicators would take the same bulb.
>
> Although the bulbs are advertised as ?dim-able? in my experience they 
> are either on or off ? full brightness or not visible. It could very 
> well be that a electronic dimmer is required, and they don't ?dim? 
> with the old-fashioned rheostat.
>
> The tail and stop lamps take a different base, and one would want the 
> largest/brightest unit available. I installed the ones offered by Moss 
> Motors.
>
> I tried the LEDs offered by Moss for the front turn indicators, but 
> they didn?t work on my car ? they were too long. When I tightened down 
> the lens screws, it pressed the bulb down into the socket, cutting off 
> the current. Later I figured out that I could have doubled up on the 
> foam gaskets and prevented this.
>
> Note that using LEDs in the turn signal circuit requires one to 
> install a electronic flasher unit.
>
> LED headlamp conversions are a more complex subject which I have not 
> investigated.
>
>
> --
> Max Heim
> mvheim at sonic.net <mailto:mvheim at sonic.net>
>
>
>
>> On Jul 7, 2020, at 12:49 PM, Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net 
>> <mailto:barrob at bell.net>> wrote:
>>
>> Hello Max,
>>
>> That is brilliant (sorry for the pun!)
>>
>> Did you by any chance get LEDs for rear brakes and turn bulbs or 
>> elsewhere ?? You don't do the turn ones but I think brighter would be 
>> better. Do you have reference number for them and brakes ???- I 
>> looked at my bulbs but no numbers !!!! The only place I would not use 
>> LEDs is the head light - too expensive.
>>
>> But one thing - it says you can dim with normal rheostat as used 
>> originally.?? I /must/ use a 'inverter' from SpeedHut to dim my 
>> speedo and tach - So does that mean I keep the currently installed 
>> dimmer with the LEDLight bulbs and add another dimmer for the 
>> SpeedHuts ?? Actually that's sort of sexy - individual dimming? - wow 
>> !!!!!
>>
>> Your information was a relief as I was humming and harring about what 
>> to get!
>>
>> Cheers
>> Barrie
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 7/7/2020 1:00 PM, Max Heim wrote:
>>> I bought these LEDs for the instruments in my 1966 B, from 
>>> LEDLight.com <http://ledlight.com/>.
>>>
>>> Product ID 57567
>>> #1487 Miniature Bulb E10 Base 5 5050 12V Dim-able T3 1/4
>>> Color: Warm White 3000K
>>> $2.42 ea.
>>>
>>> Note that there are brighter bulbs, but they contain more LED 
>>> elements and are longer, and will not fit in the fuel or combo gauge 
>>> locations. The number after the word ?Base? indicates the number of 
>>> elements. The next size would be a ?9?.
>>>
>>> I chose Warm White to simulate the color of the incandescent bulbs. 
>>> I had tried the Bright White bulbs but I didn't like the effect ? it 
>>> was slightly bluish and actually tended to wash out the lettering on 
>>> the gauges.
>>>
>>> I did not use LEDs in the turn signal indicators because I didn't 
>>> see any need for them to be brighter.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Max Heim
>>> '66 MGB
>>>
>>>> On Jul 7, 2020, at 8:59 AM, Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net 
>>>> <mailto:barrob at bell.net>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hello Folks,
>>>>
>>>> I have installed a SpeedHut speedo and tacho in my MGB GT V8 (not a 
>>>> factory one) and they are superb. But the dimmer does not work on 
>>>> them.? So I have decided to put LED bulbs in the remaining four 
>>>> smaller gauges and this means I have to install a LED dimmer for 
>>>> all six gauges.?? SpeedHut supply an LED dimmer but despite many 
>>>> emails I cannot find how their dimmer hooks up with their gauges 
>>>> and my to-be-installed LEDs in the smaller four. (Probably affected 
>>>> by the dreaded virus - which we know is a hoax).? I do not to know 
>>>> what LED bulbs I get for my 4 small gauges - and I need the new 
>>>> stronger ones.?? I bought LEDs a while way back and they were no 
>>>> stronger than the incandescents !!!
>>>>
>>>> So is there anyone who is into this subject as your help would be 
>>>> much appreciated.
>>>>
>>>> I do hope that all is well with you and yours.? We are not doing 
>>>> badly and so far the dreaded lurgy has not come near us - but 
>>>> taking super precautions including face masks.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers
>>>> Barrie
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>
>>>> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs 
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
>>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
>>>
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/stargazer1 at cox.net
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed Jul  8 02:23:48 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2020 09:23:48 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] LED instrument lights
References: <3e60cda9-4d81-43a2-16c4-3682d30a408d@bell.net>
 <67AE189E-45E3-4A19-8ACE-05B30F14EB30@sonic.net>
 <b5cba68e-b443-e8bc-1abd-c8b2d6f7cc51@bell.net>
 <13595AA0-9B2F-44A8-8BE9-13CB156C00AB@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <DF93162B7E6C451DA7F830D20810985E@paul>

Because the LEDs take so little current they need a dimmer that inserts a higher resistance in the circuit to shunt enough voltage away from the LEDs to dim them.  They should dim, I have a couple of incandescents still in circuit on both my cars and the LEDs dim to some extent, but not as much as all incandescents.

Normally dimmers are just a series resistance, i.e. two wires, and you connect it between the supply and the lamps i.e. in the same place the factory dimmer is.

The factory dimmer should still turn the lights off altogether (both mine do) , so an alternative is to connect a parallel resistance with the lights to boost the current (1.5 amps is neither here nor there in the total load on the alternator), so that the factory dimmer works.  In theory - based on the relative currents - a 15 ohm 10 watt resistor should boost the load to that of the original four 2.2w bulbs.  But as the voltage/illumination characteristics are different as well there may still be a difference.

PaulH. 
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  Although the bulbs are advertised as ?dim-able? in my experience they are either on or off ? full brightness or not visible. It could very well be that a electronic dimmer is required, and they don't ?dim? with the old-fashioned rheostat.


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From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Jul  8 12:05:23 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 8 Jul 2020 11:05:23 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] FW: LED instrument lights
In-Reply-To: <9d4f627e-c2a3-c69c-5b1b-3dd97b65608a@bell.net>
References: <3e60cda9-4d81-43a2-16c4-3682d30a408d@bell.net>
 <67AE189E-45E3-4A19-8ACE-05B30F14EB30@sonic.net>
 <b5cba68e-b443-e8bc-1abd-c8b2d6f7cc51@bell.net>
 <13595AA0-9B2F-44A8-8BE9-13CB156C00AB@sonic.net>
 <000001d654a6$07785800$16690800$@ranteer.com>
 <06F09FBB-1E3C-41DA-A892-BDD00773F1FA@sonic.net>
 <9d4f627e-c2a3-c69c-5b1b-3dd97b65608a@bell.net>
Message-ID: <3CF7F3C9-D464-4B42-811B-AA853ABD50A7@sonic.net>

Well, it?s plug & play assuming you have the right bulb ? that?s a given.

Pulling off the dash seems like the hard way to replace bulbs? Don?t know that I would consider the benefit worth the effort.

I just reach up underneath and pop out the receptacles. When they are dangling from the wires the bulbs can easily be replaced. The only ones that are particularly difficult are the turn signal indicators ? you can pop them out by pulling the wires, but it can be very difficult to get them back in. But I didn?t see any particular need to replace them.

This is a metal dash. Possibly it is more difficult on a later car.


--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On Jul 8, 2020, at 8:45 AM, Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:
> 
> Hell Max,
> 
> No, there are many pitfalls including some "will fit MGBs" ones that are too long !!!  I was advised by a big Smith gauge outfit that I need T10s (Chinese speak) but that is not right as E10 seems to be what is needed.   I am pulling my dash to see what I have.   By the way if I pull the dash do I have to take off the steering wheel??   I just need room to replace bulbs.
> 
> Cheers - I just need to be enlightened - OMG another pun
> Barrie
> 
> On 7/7/2020 6:36 PM, Max Heim wrote:
>> All bulbs are literally ?plug & play?, I should think?
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Max Heim
>> mvheim at sonic.net <mailto:mvheim at sonic.net>
>> 
>> 
>> 

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu Jul  9 01:36:13 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 9 Jul 2020 08:36:13 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] FW: LED instrument lights
References: <3e60cda9-4d81-43a2-16c4-3682d30a408d@bell.net>
 <67AE189E-45E3-4A19-8ACE-05B30F14EB30@sonic.net>
 <b5cba68e-b443-e8bc-1abd-c8b2d6f7cc51@bell.net>
 <13595AA0-9B2F-44A8-8BE9-13CB156C00AB@sonic.net>
 <000001d654a6$07785800$16690800$@ranteer.com>
 <06F09FBB-1E3C-41DA-A892-BDD00773F1FA@sonic.net>
 <9d4f627e-c2a3-c69c-5b1b-3dd97b65608a@bell.net>
 <3CF7F3C9-D464-4B42-811B-AA853ABD50A7@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <1A03C7B3801547C9958738D71E37E12C@paul>

E10 are screw and were used originally, but a replacement harness for a 1980 came with T10 which are wedge.  E10 bulb holders are metal and only have one wire as they pick up the earth from the metal gauge case, T10 are plastic and so have an earth wire as well.

UK CB and RB gauges prior to 77 can all be reached from behind, unless you have hands like ham hocks.

CB indicator tell-tales are trickier as there is a strut behind them, that's not there on the RB, but as said I saw no reason to replace those unlike the gauges as I can see them even in the roadster top down in the sun.  The ticking is a bit of a give-away as well.

The 5050 E10 when used in my 75 V8 speedo just touched the innards, I could see the needle moving as I pushed the holder in, so I had to space it back a bit.


PaulH.

  ----- Original Message ----- 

  No, there are many pitfalls including some "will fit MGBs" ones that are too long !!!  I was advised by a big Smith gauge outfit that I need T10s (Chinese speak) but that is not right as E10 seems to be what is needed.   I am pulling my dash to see what I have.   By the way if I pull the dash do I have to take off the steering wheel??   I just need room to replace bulbs.
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From guinness at stclegal.com  Mon Jul 20 08:39:53 2020
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 09:39:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Jaeger Dual Gauge Modern Replacement Accuracy & Calibration
Message-ID: <1ccab922-1f5f-77b8-6f12-39557b77f599@stclegal.com>

I bought a new "Jaeger" dual gauge for my MGA? from a vendor in 
England.? It looks great, but before I installed it, I wanted to test 
it.? I realize these are not precise instruments, but I was hoping at 
least be close to 212 (deg. F) at boiling without pressure.? I placed 
the entire bulb into boiling water (without touching the pot) at roughly 
sea level (453?).? I have tested original dual gauges this way and they 
all behaved as expected being near or at 212 when the water was 
roiling.? I also had a candy thermometer in the pot as a verification.? 
The new gauge never got over a hairs width beyond 190.? The candy 
thermometer showed the correct 212 at a vigorous boil.? I performed the 
test again hoping the gauge was just "stuck" being that it was new.? I 
got the same result.? As the water temperature increased, the gauge 
appeared to read a somewhat consistent 20 degrees cooler than the candy 
thermometer.

I called the vendor and they intimated that I was crazy to test it the 
way I did.? Am I?? Is there a better way to test it without installing 
it?? Or is installation and an infrared thermometer a preferable way to 
test it.? Someone else suggested that you should simply move the needle 
to 212 at boiling.? But that is rather inelegant and the gauge would not 
go back to the resting peg at 90 when the car is parked.? How accurate 
should these gauges be, anyway?

Is there anyway I can salvage this unit without sending it back? Am I 
expecting too much?

Thanks.

-- 
e-mail signature

Robert Guinness

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From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Jul 20 09:25:30 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 09:25:30 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Speechless
Message-ID: <00c361c1-e0a4-a0db-0297-0f5bea14bff8@bradakis.com>

Wow.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/679140402939778


mjb.


From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Jul 20 09:28:00 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 16:28:00 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Jaeger Dual Gauge Modern Replacement Accuracy &
 Calibration
References: <1ccab922-1f5f-77b8-6f12-39557b77f599@stclegal.com>
Message-ID: <F714CD12CEAA45B19F87B53828E59D83@paul>

e-mail signatureNo you aren't, and they would say that as it's obviously their gauge that is faulty.  Installed I can't see cooling system pressure squeezing the bulb enough to boost the gas pressure and hence the gauge reading anywhere near 20 degrees.  I don't know the correlation between pressure and reading, but it may be similar to the oil section.  

I have often wondered whether the long (in an MGB at any rate) capillary tube being alongside the head in the engine compartment does add a little to the reading, as all the tube there could be at 100-plus degrees F in hot weather compared to less than 30 degrees in very cold weather, with the bulb - presumably with a correctly working stat - being at 180F in both cases.

If you were in the UK I'd say demand your money back as it's not fit for purpose, there are consumer protection rules, less easy if you are in another country.  So many people these days just moan and don't demand corrective action, so there is little incentive for suppliers to up their game.  The simplest thing is to be aware of it, and take the same action when it reads 190 that you would at 212.  Moving the needle could cause damage, but there may well be some negative reading that the stop prevents that would mean it wouldn't be 20 degrees off the stop when cold.  To me though, it would be more irritating to see that, than taking account of known under-reading, as I find in both my cars there can be significant differences in 'normal' running winter and summer'.  Unlike modern cars which I believe are computer controlled to prevent owner paranoia with 'normal' variations.

PaulH.


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  I bought a new "Jaeger" dual gauge for my MGA  from a vendor in England.  ...  The new gauge never got over a hairs width beyond 190.

  I called the vendor and they intimated that I was crazy to test it the way I did.  Am I?  Is there a better way to test it without installing it?  Or is installation and an infrared thermometer a preferable way to test it.
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From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 09:39:51 2020
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 10:39:51 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speechless
In-Reply-To: <00c361c1-e0a4-a0db-0297-0f5bea14bff8@bradakis.com>
References: <00c361c1-e0a4-a0db-0297-0f5bea14bff8@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dzMst8fmAVdznu7vg4CWBDsfrt0BJ8Jn5poKZr0m1W3ow@mail.gmail.com>

May I just say...DAMN!

On Mon, Jul 20, 2020, 10:25 AM Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Wow.
>
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/679140402939778
>
>
> mjb.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com
>
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon Jul 20 09:36:10 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 16:36:10 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Speechless
References: <00c361c1-e0a4-a0db-0297-0f5bea14bff8@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <2C347F6D38FE4240B576BD254A0F9F39@paul>

Nowt like optimism ...

----- Original Message ----- > 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/679140402939778
> 
> 

From guinness at stclegal.com  Mon Jul 20 09:54:29 2020
From: guinness at stclegal.com (Robert J. Guinness)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 10:54:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Jaeger Dual Gauge Modern Replacement Accuracy &
 Calibration
In-Reply-To: <F714CD12CEAA45B19F87B53828E59D83@paul>
References: <1ccab922-1f5f-77b8-6f12-39557b77f599@stclegal.com>
 <F714CD12CEAA45B19F87B53828E59D83@paul>
Message-ID: <92868727-7d7f-3320-25bb-a4785e4fcf9a@stclegal.com>

Thanks Paul, helpful as always.? The Vendor did offer a refund if I 
shipped it back.

On 7/20/2020 10:28 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> ? e-mail signature
> No you aren't, and they would say that as it's obviously their gauge 
> that is faulty.? Installed I can't see cooling system pressure 
> squeezing the bulb enough to boost the gas pressure and hence the 
> gauge reading anywhere near 20 degrees.? I don't know the correlation 
> between pressure and reading, but it may be similar to the oil section.
> I have often wondered whether the long (in an MGB at any rate) 
> capillary tube being alongside the head in the engine compartment does 
> add a little to the reading, as all the tube there could be at 
> 100-plus degrees F?in hot weather compared to less than 30 degrees in 
> very cold weather, with the bulb - presumably with a correctly working 
> stat - being at 180F in both cases.
> If you were in the UK I'd say demand your money back as it's not fit 
> for purpose,?there are consumer protection rules, less easy if you are 
> in another country.? So many people these days just moan and don't 
> demand corrective action, so there is little incentive for suppliers 
> to up their game.? The simplest thing is to be aware of it, and?take 
> the same action when it reads 190 that you would at 212.? Moving the 
> needle could cause damage, but there may well be some negative reading 
> that the stop prevents that would mean it wouldn't be 20 degrees off 
> the stop when cold.? To me though, it would be more irritating to see 
> that, than taking account of known under-reading, as I find in both my 
> cars there can be significant differences in 'normal' running winter 
> and summer'.? Unlike modern cars which I believe are computer 
> controlled to prevent owner paranoia with 'normal' variations.
> PaulH.
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>
>     I bought a new "Jaeger" dual gauge for my MGA? from a vendor in
>     England.??...? The new gauge never got over a hairs width beyond 190.
>
>     I called the vendor and they intimated that I was crazy to test it
>     the way I did.? Am I?? Is there a better way to test it without
>     installing it?? Or is installation and an infrared thermometer a
>     preferable way to test it.
>
-- 
e-mail signature

Robert Guinness

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From dan.dibiase at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 09:56:11 2020
From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 11:56:11 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speechless
In-Reply-To: <00c361c1-e0a4-a0db-0297-0f5bea14bff8@bradakis.com>
References: <00c361c1-e0a4-a0db-0297-0f5bea14bff8@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CABxEc+nVieEEdd9wqHhr=b8bPx4Uw--DybsajMYtKxnPfA-r-Q@mail.gmail.com>

I suspect he simply put that price in as a placeholder, as he didn't have
any idea of what it was worth.

Dan D
'76B (running again soon), '65 B (who knows)
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/


On Mon, Jul 20, 2020 at 11:25 AM Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Wow.
>
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/679140402939778
>
>
> mjb.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>
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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Mon Jul 20 10:07:50 2020
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 12:07:50 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Jaeger Dual Gauge Modern Replacement Accuracy &
 Calibration
In-Reply-To: <F714CD12CEAA45B19F87B53828E59D83@paul>
References: <1ccab922-1f5f-77b8-6f12-39557b77f599@stclegal.com>
 <F714CD12CEAA45B19F87B53828E59D83@paul>
Message-ID: <1E382052-CFF8-4EE1-9AEB-2601AB6499CE@gmail.com>

   I did not read this thread from its beginning, thus my comments may be off target.
   My assumption is that Bob put the bulb into a pan of boiling water, at which time the gauge indicated 190F.  Unless he is testing about about 8500 ft altitude, that 190F is low.   If he tested in boiling water near sea level,  Paul is spot on-it is an out-of-spec gauge.
   That is a good way to test gauges and thermostats, adjusting for altitude. 
   It seems to me that contents of the tube alongside the engine?s head are already gaseous, thus heat added from the head would have insignificant effect on the gauge reading. 
  I infer that the vendor is not offering to replace the gauge.  If Bob wants to keep it and to install it, the infrared thermometer would allow him to chart the difference between gauge reading and thermometer ready, hoping that the error is linear.
  But then, there remains uncertainty about accuracy the oil pressure half of the gauge....
Bob


> On Jul 20, 2020, at 11:28 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote:
> 
> No you aren't, and they would say that as it's obviously their gauge that is faulty.  Installed I can't see cooling system pressure squeezing the bulb enough to boost the gas pressure and hence the gauge reading anywhere near 20 degrees.  I don't know the correlation between pressure and reading, but it may be similar to the oil section. 
>  
> I have often wondered whether the long (in an MGB at any rate) capillary tube being alongside the head in the engine compartment does add a little to the reading, as all the tube there could be at 100-plus degrees F in hot weather compared to less than 30 degrees in very cold weather, with the bulb - presumably with a correctly working stat - being at 180F in both cases.
>  
> If you were in the UK I'd say demand your money back as it's not fit for purpose, there are consumer protection rules, less easy if you are in another country.  So many people these days just moan and don't demand corrective action, so there is little incentive for suppliers to up their game.  The simplest thing is to be aware of it, and take the same action when it reads 190 that you would at 212.  Moving the needle could cause damage, but there may well be some negative reading that the stop prevents that would mean it wouldn't be 20 degrees off the stop when cold.  To me though, it would be more irritating to see that, than taking account of known under-reading, as I find in both my cars there can be significant differences in 'normal' running winter and summer'.  Unlike modern cars which I believe are computer controlled to prevent owner paranoia with 'normal' variations.
>  
> PaulH.
>  
>  
> ----- Original Message -----
> I bought a new "Jaeger" dual gauge for my MGA  from a vendor in England.  ...  The new gauge never got over a hairs width beyond 190.
> 
> I called the vendor and they intimated that I was crazy to test it the way I did.  Am I?  Is there a better way to test it without installing it?  Or is installation and an infrared thermometer a preferable way to test it.
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Mon Jul 20 14:29:34 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 16:29:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Jaeger Dual Gauge Modern Replacement Accuracy &,
 Calibration
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1595268001.22461.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1595268001.22461.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <94f32f65-ce05-3a44-9577-b70397193188@mebtel.net>

Testing as you describe is exactly how I have always tested the temp gauge.

If you cannot convince the vendor to take the unit back, you could 
remove the bezel & glass, carefully pull the needle off and re-install 
it so it reads correctly in the pot of boiling water. It is highly 
likely the readings at other temperatures will be correct - or at least 
a lot more correct than the way it is now. The needle will also likely 
go back to its resting stop when the temp drops below the lowest number 
on the face.

See: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dt105.htm 
<http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/dash/dt105.htm>

> Is there anyway I can salvage this unit without sending it back?

-- 
Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Jul 20 18:33:29 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 19:33:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] what car
Message-ID: <001b01d65ef6$8eab8720$ac029560$@ranteer.com>

I found this in my parts bin.  I know it's a throw out bearing, but for what
car?

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From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon Jul 20 19:40:22 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 18:40:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] what car
In-Reply-To: <001b01d65ef6$8eab8720$ac029560$@ranteer.com>
References: <001b01d65ef6$8eab8720$ac029560$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <F6AF328A-122B-4296-8A99-415B266984D3@sonic.net>

Wouldn?t a throw-out bearing be carbon? This looks like a bronze bush.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On Jul 20, 2020, at 5:33 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> I found this in my parts bin.  I know it?s a throw out bearing, but for what car?
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net>
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From dwoerpel at wi.net  Tue Jul 21 07:08:00 2020
From: dwoerpel at wi.net (dwoerpel)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 08:08:00 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] what car
In-Reply-To: <F6AF328A-122B-4296-8A99-415B266984D3@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.20.1595336888.2902.mgs@autox.team.net>


First impression was a pilot(spigot) bushing until I saw the ridge or flared portion. No idea on the car.Dave W'59 :()'59 MGA 1500Burlington WI"Pay It Forward "Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S8, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone
-------- Original message --------From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> Date: 7/20/20  8:40 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: dave <dave at ranteer.com> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] what car Wouldn?t a throw-out bearing be carbon? This looks like a bronze bush.
--Max Heim'66 MGB


On Jul 20, 2020, at 5:33 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:I found this in my parts bin.? I know it?s a throw out bearing, but for what car?_______________________________________________Mgs at autox.team.netDonate:?http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation ?$12.75Archive:?http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs?http://autox.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe:?http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
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From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 21 08:47:43 2020
From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler)
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2020 14:47:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Fw:  what car
In-Reply-To: <20200721130833.569EBA0EC6@autox.team.net>
References: <F6AF328A-122B-4296-8A99-415B266984D3@sonic.net>
 <20200721130833.569EBA0EC6@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <828233322.4134330.1595342863873@mail.yahoo.com>

 This is for a TR-3/4.? The throw out bearing presses onto this piece, which slides on the transmission input shaft cover.
Jack

   ----- Forwarded Message ----- From: dwoerpel <dwoerpel at wi.net>To: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>; dave <dave at ranteer.com>Cc: "mgs at autox.team.net" <mgs at autox.team.net>Sent: Tuesday, July 21, 2020, 9:08:35 AM EDTSubject: Re: [Mgs] what car
 First impression was a pilot(spigot) bushing until I saw the ridge or flared portion. No idea on the car.
Dave W
'59 :()'59 MGA 1500Burlington WI"Pay It Forward "


Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S8, an AT&T 5G Evolution capable smartphone

-------- Original message --------From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> Date: 7/20/20 8:40 PM (GMT-06:00) To: dave <dave at ranteer.com> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Mgs] what car 
Wouldn?t a throw-out bearing be carbon? This looks like a bronze bush.
--Max Heim'66 MGB

On Jul 20, 2020, at 5:33 PM, dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
I found this in my parts bin.? I know it?s a throw out bearing, but for what car?_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:?http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation ?$12.75

Archive:?http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs?http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe:?http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Jul 20 13:15:46 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 21:15:46 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Jaeger Dual Gauge Modern Replacement Accuracy &
 Calibration
In-Reply-To: <1E382052-CFF8-4EE1-9AEB-2601AB6499CE@gmail.com>
References: <1ccab922-1f5f-77b8-6f12-39557b77f599@stclegal.com>
 <F714CD12CEAA45B19F87B53828E59D83@paul>
 <1E382052-CFF8-4EE1-9AEB-2601AB6499CE@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003e01d65eca$2c0750d0$8415f270$@planet.nl>

Off topic, but it seems I did not get all mails of this threat. 

Anything happened with the mailserver?

 

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT being prepared for MOT

 

Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Robert's New iPad
Verzonden: maandag 20 juli 2020 18:08
Aan: PaulHunt73
CC: Robert J. Guinness; mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Jaeger Dual Gauge Modern Replacement Accuracy & Calibration

 

   I did not read this thread from its beginning, thus my comments may be off target.

   My assumption is that Bob put the bulb into a pan of boiling water, at which time the gauge indicated 190F.  Unless he is testing about about 8500 ft altitude, that 190F is low.   If he tested in boiling water near sea level,  Paul is spot on-it is an out-of-spec gauge.

   That is a good way to test gauges and thermostats, adjusting for altitude. 

   It seems to me that contents of the tube alongside the engine?s head are already gaseous, thus heat added from the head would have insignificant effect on the gauge reading. 

  I infer that the vendor is not offering to replace the gauge.  If Bob wants to keep it and to install it, the infrared thermometer would allow him to chart the difference between gauge reading and thermometer ready, hoping that the error is linear.

  But then, there remains uncertainty about accuracy the oil pressure half of the gauge....

Bob

 


On Jul 20, 2020, at 11:28 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote:

No you aren't, and they would say that as it's obviously their gauge that is faulty.  Installed I can't see cooling system pressure squeezing the bulb enough to boost the gas pressure and hence the gauge reading anywhere near 20 degrees.  I don't know the correlation between pressure and reading, but it may be similar to the oil section.  

 

I have often wondered whether the long (in an MGB at any rate) capillary tube being alongside the head in the engine compartment does add a little to the reading, as all the tube there could be at 100-plus degrees F in hot weather compared to less than 30 degrees in very cold weather, with the bulb - presumably with a correctly working stat - being at 180F in both cases.

 

If you were in the UK I'd say demand your money back as it's not fit for purpose, there are consumer protection rules, less easy if you are in another country.  So many people these days just moan and don't demand corrective action, so there is little incentive for suppliers to up their game.  The simplest thing is to be aware of it, and take the same action when it reads 190 that you would at 212.  Moving the needle could cause damage, but there may well be some negative reading that the stop prevents that would mean it wouldn't be 20 degrees off the stop when cold.  To me though, it would be more irritating to see that, than taking account of known under-reading, as I find in both my cars there can be significant differences in 'normal' running winter and summer'.  Unlike modern cars which I believe are computer controlled to prevent owner paranoia with 'normal' variations.

 

PaulH.

 

 

----- Original Message ----- 

I bought a new "Jaeger" dual gauge for my MGA  from a vendor in England.  ...  The new gauge never got over a hairs width beyond 190.

I called the vendor and they intimated that I was crazy to test it the way I did.  Am I?  Is there a better way to test it without installing it?  Or is installation and an infrared thermometer a preferable way to test it.

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com



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From barrob at bell.net  Thu Jul 30 11:36:15 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 13:36:15 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Smith/s 52mm clock bulb
Message-ID: <1e4be98d-56e0-42c1-767c-ba336ab0daf7@bell.net>

Hello Folks,

I am changing all the bulbs in the gauges in my 1980 MGB GT (V8 
conversion) dash and the Smith's clock is proving a problem.? I cannot 
get the light bulb undone.? I have pulled and grunted but it will not 
come undone.? Came someone please tell me how it should get the bulb off 
and where can I get new bulb.? Moss does not have them and I have no 
idea of part number.? Thanks in advance for your replies.?? Image attached.

Cheers
Barrie
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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Jul 30 12:34:59 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 20:34:59 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Smith/s 52mm clock bulb
In-Reply-To: <1e4be98d-56e0-42c1-767c-ba336ab0daf7@bell.net>
References: <1e4be98d-56e0-42c1-767c-ba336ab0daf7@bell.net>
Message-ID: <009a01d666a0$218a7190$649f54b0$@planet.nl>

Ha Barrie,

 

Try to soak around the lamp fitting some contact fluids. 

In Europe there are some spray cans in electronics parts shops, which help to solve corroded contacts. 

This might help to loosen the lamp after having soaked for a while.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Cheers,

71 BGT

 

Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Barrie Robinson
Verzonden: donderdag 30 juli 2020 19:36
Aan: MGB List; MGB V8 List
Onderwerp: [Mgs] Smith/s 52mm clock bulb

 

Hello Folks,

I am changing all the bulbs in the gauges in my 1980 MGB GT (V8 conversion) dash and the Smith's clock is proving a problem.  I cannot get the light bulb undone.  I have pulled and grunted but it will not come undone.  Came someone please tell me how it should get the bulb off and where can I get new bulb.  Moss does not have them and I have no idea of part number.  Thanks in advance for your replies.   Image attached.

Cheers
Barrie



-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu Jul 30 12:35:29 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 20:35:29 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] FW:  Smith/s 52mm clock bulb
References: <1e4be98d-56e0-42c1-767c-ba336ab0daf7@bell.net> 
Message-ID: <009f01d666a0$33477590$99d660b0$@planet.nl>

Hi Barrie,

 

Try to soak around the lamp fitting some contact fluids. 

In Europe there are some spray cans in electronics parts shops, which help to solve corroded contacts. 

This might help to loosen the lamp after having soaked for a while.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Cheers,

71 BGT

 

Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Barrie Robinson
Verzonden: donderdag 30 juli 2020 19:36
Aan: MGB List; MGB V8 List
Onderwerp: [Mgs] Smith/s 52mm clock bulb

 

Hello Folks,

I am changing all the bulbs in the gauges in my 1980 MGB GT (V8 conversion) dash and the Smith's clock is proving a problem.  I cannot get the light bulb undone.  I have pulled and grunted but it will not come undone.  Came someone please tell me how it should get the bulb off and where can I get new bulb.  Moss does not have them and I have no idea of part number.  Thanks in advance for your replies.   Image attached.

Cheers
Barrie



-- 
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https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu Jul 30 15:15:20 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 21:15:20 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust Sound
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>

The 69 MGB GT I recently bought is sporting a cherry bomb muffler.? I find it annoying and raspy.? What is a good after market choice to replace it?
Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye 
1956 Austin Healey BN2 LeMans
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Jul 30 15:34:28 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 14:34:28 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust Sound
In-Reply-To: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1FCBCFE5-6D2F-49F9-A6F4-F724F03AE2F0@sonic.net>

I have always felt that the stock exhaust system had a well balanced sound, quiet enough at moderate RPM and throaty at WOT. I have always bought stock replacement mufflers.

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 30, 2020, at 2:15 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> The 69 MGB GT I recently bought is sporting a cherry bomb muffler.  I find it annoying and raspy.  What is a good after market choice to replace it?
> 
> Mike MacLean
> 1969 MGB GT
> 1960 Bugeye 
> 1956 Austin Healey BN2 LeMans
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Thu Jul 30 15:43:55 2020
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 21:43:55 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] [EXT]   Exhaust Sound
In-Reply-To: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <FF3DB89F-D470-4C1A-80C3-12EB0F3C0C7A@ur.rochester.edu>

On my 74 BGT I have a Falcon Stainless steel system. Sounds good and it?s there forever.

paul

On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:15 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net<mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>> wrote:

The 69 MGB GT I recently bought is sporting a cherry bomb muffler.  I find it annoying and raspy.  What is a good after market choice to replace it?

Mike MacLean
1969 MGB GT
1960 Bugeye
1956 Austin Healey BN2 LeMans
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=mI8OKavfVeyvphCYWwst-hLFnNxdMGensMaJIRhBIak&s=Ah7Dx0I49qEBPVUu4cZ8ytFyP-HzxzD8V4eUUtNC_KI&e=
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=mI8OKavfVeyvphCYWwst-hLFnNxdMGensMaJIRhBIak&s=Inrl-YqVc2avc56uU2Qbl8pQMkhIZzZwsiVt0usHteU&e=

Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
   585-275-5226





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From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu Jul 30 16:04:27 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 15:04:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [EXT]   Exhaust Sound
In-Reply-To: <FF3DB89F-D470-4C1A-80C3-12EB0F3C0C7A@ur.rochester.edu>
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <FF3DB89F-D470-4C1A-80C3-12EB0F3C0C7A@ur.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <792882E0-335E-42CE-A2DF-2B98F17DA6A1@sonic.net>

Yeah, I figure I wouldn?t live long enough for a stainless system to pay for itself.


--
Max Heim
mvheim at sonic.net



> On Jul 30, 2020, at 2:43 PM, Osborne, Paul <paul at ece.rochester.edu> wrote:
> 
> On my 74 BGT I have a Falcon Stainless steel system. Sounds good and it?s there forever. 
> 
> paul
> 
>> On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:15 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net <mailto:rrengineer.mike at att.net>> wrote:
>> 
>> The 69 MGB GT I recently bought is sporting a cherry bomb muffler.  I find it annoying and raspy.  What is a good after market choice to replace it?
>> 
>> Mike MacLean
>> 1969 MGB GT
>> 1960 Bugeye 
>> 1956 Austin Healey BN2 LeMans
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=mI8OKavfVeyvphCYWwst-hLFnNxdMGensMaJIRhBIak&s=Ah7Dx0I49qEBPVUu4cZ8ytFyP-HzxzD8V4eUUtNC_KI&e= 
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=mI8OKavfVeyvphCYWwst-hLFnNxdMGensMaJIRhBIak&s=xwQHABgw05AH72ik43TaxmOChLBNBoQ4SEaJ_vvI-3Q&e=  https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=mI8OKavfVeyvphCYWwst-hLFnNxdMGensMaJIRhBIak&s=FwP04WNCof4tkjoKKf1mk_P-GEf5mlWZggJ2S0G_2SI&e= 
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=mI8OKavfVeyvphCYWwst-hLFnNxdMGensMaJIRhBIak&s=Inrl-YqVc2avc56uU2Qbl8pQMkhIZzZwsiVt0usHteU&e= 
> 
>> Paul Osborne
>> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
>> University of Rochester 
>> 201 Hopeman Building RC
>> Rochester NY 14627
>    585-275-5226
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Thu Jul 30 16:15:27 2020
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 18:15:27 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust Sound
In-Reply-To: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <43A6849B-3D50-4F09-B542-BE57239F1C93@gmail.com>

    You won?t go wrong by fitting a Falcon stainless system. It is almost identical to original, though made of stainless. Mine is now 24 years old and good as new. 
Bob
1972 GT

> On Jul 30, 2020, at 5:15 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> The 69 MGB GT I recently bought is sporting a cherry bomb muffler.  I find it annoying and raspy.  What is a good after market choice to replace it?
> 
> Mike MacLean
> 1969 MGB GT
> 1960 Bugeye 
> 1956 Austin Healey BN2 LeMans
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
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From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Jul 30 18:35:56 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Thu, 30 Jul 2020 19:35:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [EXT]   Exhaust Sound
In-Reply-To: <792882E0-335E-42CE-A2DF-2B98F17DA6A1@sonic.net>
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <FF3DB89F-D470-4C1A-80C3-12EB0F3C0C7A@ur.rochester.edu>
 <792882E0-335E-42CE-A2DF-2B98F17DA6A1@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <003401d666d2$8e41f1a0$aac5d4e0$@ranteer.com>

About 2 or maybe even 3  years ago I bought a stainless steel exhaust for my MGA from Moss since they were on sale.

 

It still looks absolutely brand new.  Of course, its also still in the box. 

 

 

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From palte at gmx.net  Fri Jul 31 01:24:38 2020
From: palte at gmx.net (Bert Palte)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 09:24:38 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust Sound
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <FF3DB89F-D470-4C1A-80C3-12EB0F3C0C7A@ur.rochester.edu>
 <792882E0-335E-42CE-A2DF-2B98F17DA6A1@sonic.net>
 <003401d666d2$8e41f1a0$aac5d4e0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <trinity-ae32a000-e5d3-4c29-aa9c-54a69cd58ab7-1596180278366@3c-app-gmx-bs09>

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri Jul 31 01:29:35 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 08:29:35 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Smith/s 52mm clock bulb
References: <1e4be98d-56e0-42c1-767c-ba336ab0daf7@bell.net>
Message-ID: <DE2156ED8AC440978343A65859C7843F@paul>

Looks like a bayonet to me - push, twist anti-clockwise, release, and it should fall out.

PaulH.

  ----- Original Message ----- 

  I am changing all the bulbs in the gauges in my 1980 MGB GT (V8 conversion) dash and the Smith's clock is proving a problem.  I cannot get the light bulb undone.  I have pulled and grunted but it will not come undone.  Came someone please tell me how it should get the bulb off and where can I get new bulb.  Moss does not have them and I have no idea of part number.  Thanks in advance for your replies.   Image attached.
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri Jul 31 02:02:04 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 09:02:04 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust Sound
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6A05C3CDD5E24786B5185BC385F56635@paul>

This is a bit like "what colour should I paint my car?" (and people have asked that ...) but at least you can look at other cars.  An exhaust sound can be particular to the car although you can get an idea by listening to others, but you won't really know until you have spent the money and got it on.

I prefer the original sound, some after-market systems are ear-shattering, but having had the roadster over 30 years and the V8 over 20 I'd have replaced both several times by now if I'd stayed with original mild steel.  So I fitted stainless, the V8 is fine but the roadster was very disappointing - they have been described as 'farty' and not just on MGBs and that was how it was.  But after the middle box got partly crushed a couple of times it sounds much better!

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 


  The 69 MGB GT I recently bought is sporting a cherry bomb muffler.  I find it annoying and raspy.  What is a good after market choice to replace it?
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From barrob at bell.net  Fri Jul 31 07:50:13 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 09:50:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust Sound
In-Reply-To: <6A05C3CDD5E24786B5185BC385F56635@paul>
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <6A05C3CDD5E24786B5185BC385F56635@paul>
Message-ID: <ad373f0c-f318-8e57-c080-326d08dca620@bell.net>

Hello Paul,

I was once told that putting a copper tail piece after the 
silencer/baffle would give a melodious sound (sort of brass band??)? But 
never tried it

I understand that mild steel, not stainless, l gave a nicer sound.??? 
Stainless as a better sound was a stainless steel rig manufacturer 
advertisement !!!!

Cheers
Barrie

On 7/31/2020 4:02 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
> ?
> This is a bit like "what colour should I paint my car?" (and people 
> have asked that ...) but at least you can look at other cars.? An 
> exhaust sound can be particular to the car although you can get an 
> idea by listening to others, but you won't really know until you have 
> spent the money and got it on.
> I prefer the original sound,?some after-market systems 
> are?ear-shattering, but having had the roadster over 30 years and the 
> V8 over 20 I'd have replaced both several times by now if I'd stayed 
> with original mild steel.? So I fitted stainless,?the V8 is fine but 
> the roadster was very disappointing - they have been described as 
> 'farty' and not just on MGBs and that was how it was.? But after the 
> middle box got partly crushed a couple of times it sounds much better!
> PaulH.
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>     The 69 MGB GT I recently bought is sporting a cherry bomb
>     muffler.? I find it annoying and raspy.? What is a good after
>     market choice to replace it?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net

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From wkollar at nycap.rr.com  Fri Jul 31 09:46:46 2020
From: wkollar at nycap.rr.com (Bill Kollar)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 11:46:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust Sound
In-Reply-To: <trinity-ae32a000-e5d3-4c29-aa9c-54a69cd58ab7-1596180278366@3c-app-gmx-bs09>
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <FF3DB89F-D470-4C1A-80C3-12EB0F3C0C7A@ur.rochester.edu>
 <792882E0-335E-42CE-A2DF-2B98F17DA6A1@sonic.net>
 <003401d666d2$8e41f1a0$aac5d4e0$@ranteer.com>
 <trinity-ae32a000-e5d3-4c29-aa9c-54a69cd58ab7-1596180278366@3c-app-gmx-bs09>
Message-ID: <9b40440c-9e49-9392-27eb-e24c01f3c921@nycap.rr.com>


When we bought our 78 MGB, a couple years ago, it had what I believe to 
a some-what stock exhaust system (Muffler and Resonator, less the 
Catalytic).? The sound was pleasant and quite British.? Unfortunately 
the muffler gave out.? I replaced everything with a Tourist Trophy 
Stainless Steel Sport System from Moss.

The new system only had the resonator/rear muffler and proved to be a 
bit to loud for both my wife and myself.? I called Moss and tried to get 
a front muffler to replace the first pipe off the manifold but 
unfortunately they don't carry one.

My solution was to remove the front pipe (flanges at both ends) I cut 
out the appropriate length of pipe and welded in a new stainless steel 
MagnaFlow Muffler (model 11124) between the flanges.? If I remember 
correctly it was about 80 bucks at the local speed shop.? It wasn't a 
perfect fit but with a little shoving and pushing everything lined up 
and fit pretty good.

The end result was a much quieter exhaust with a nice dulled British sound.


> _______________________________________________ Mgs at autox.team.net 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation 
> $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs 
> http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/palte at gmx.net
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/wkollar at nycap.rr.com

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From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri Jul 31 10:44:41 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 09:44:41 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust Sound
In-Reply-To: <trinity-ae32a000-e5d3-4c29-aa9c-54a69cd58ab7-1596180278366@3c-app-gmx-bs09>
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <FF3DB89F-D470-4C1A-80C3-12EB0F3C0C7A@ur.rochester.edu>
 <792882E0-335E-42CE-A2DF-2B98F17DA6A1@sonic.net>
 <003401d666d2$8e41f1a0$aac5d4e0$@ranteer.com>
 <trinity-ae32a000-e5d3-4c29-aa9c-54a69cd58ab7-1596180278366@3c-app-gmx-bs09>
Message-ID: <AEA8312E-2DDD-494F-9808-7B7EC3661C69@sonic.net>

Ah, you see, that?s the case for the exhaust system as an expendable maintenance item ? its location makes it vulnerable to road hazards. The fact that it will last 100 years does?t help if you wipe it out on a speed bump in three years.

I think the comment that stainless steel has a harsher sound than mild steel is also relevant.

But mainly, I?m too cheap to spend the money on something that isn?t an appearance or a performance item. In fact, the exhaust system on my car right now is a freebie cast-off from a local acquaintance who was ?upgrading?. The local exhaust shop welded up a few holes and put in a new muffler for less than $100. In service since the early 90s.


--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On Jul 31, 2020, at 12:24 AM, Bert Palte <palte at gmx.net> wrote:
> 
> When I bought my car in 1989, it came with an aftermarket exhaust system. I think the name, 
> pressed into the muffler, was Zakspeed or Janspeed or something.
> I liked the sound (music).
>  
> However, after hitting a road bump, it was beyond repair.
>  
> Replaced it, in 1994, with a Walker unit that is still on the car.
> This one is too quiet to my liking (i.e. you hear the valve train too prominent...)
>  
> Anyone know where to find the above mentioned Janspeed or Zakspeed?
>  
> Bert
>  
>  
>  
> Gesendet: Freitag, 31. Juli 2020 um 02:35 Uhr
> Von: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> An: mgs at autox.team.net
> Betreff: Re: [Mgs] [EXT] Exhaust Sound
> About 2 or maybe even 3  years ago I bought a stainless steel exhaust for my MGA from Moss since they were on sale.
> 
>  
> It still looks absolutely brand new.  Of course, its also still in the box.
> 

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Jul 31 11:08:40 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 17:08:40 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust Sound
In-Reply-To: <AEA8312E-2DDD-494F-9808-7B7EC3661C69@sonic.net>
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <FF3DB89F-D470-4C1A-80C3-12EB0F3C0C7A@ur.rochester.edu>
 <792882E0-335E-42CE-A2DF-2B98F17DA6A1@sonic.net>
 <003401d666d2$8e41f1a0$aac5d4e0$@ranteer.com>
 <trinity-ae32a000-e5d3-4c29-aa9c-54a69cd58ab7-1596180278366@3c-app-gmx-bs09>
 <AEA8312E-2DDD-494F-9808-7B7EC3661C69@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <582172889.10145350.1596215320431@mail.yahoo.com>

 I just returned from the muffler shop to see about replacing the "cherry bomb" muffler with something a little more quiet and deep.? When it was put up on the lift the single muffler looked like a stock MG muffler painted red, not a typical cherry bomb glass pack muffler.? APT in Riverside (10 minutes from my house) sells a Maniflow performance system for $350.? I'm not sure I would be any better off sound wise with it.? Now I am thinking of just buying a stock resonator and muffler from Moss and having the muffler shop put them in and be done with it.
Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT 
1960 Bugeye1956 BN2 Lemans

    On Friday, July 31, 2020, 9:44:48 AM PDT, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:  
 
 Ah, you see, that?s the case for the exhaust system as an expendable maintenance item ? its location makes it vulnerable to road hazards. The fact that it will last 100 years does?t help if you wipe it out on a speed bump in three years.
I think the comment that stainless steel has a harsher sound than mild steel is also relevant.

But mainly, I?m too cheap to spend the money on something that isn?t an appearance or a performance item. In fact, the exhaust system on my car right now is a freebie cast-off from a local acquaintance who was ?upgrading?. The local exhaust shop welded up a few holes and put in a new muffler for less than $100. In service since the early 90s.

--Max Heim'66 MGB

On Jul 31, 2020, at 12:24 AM, Bert Palte <palte at gmx.net> wrote:
When I bought my car in 1989, it came with an aftermarket exhaust system. I think the name,?pressed into the muffler, was Zakspeed or Janspeed or something.I liked the sound (music).?However, after hitting a road bump, it was beyond?repair.?Replaced it, in 1994, with a Walker unit that is still on the car.This one is too quiet to my liking (i.e. you hear the valve train too prominent...)?Anyone know where to find the above mentioned Janspeed or Zakspeed??Bert???Gesendet:?Freitag, 31. Juli 2020 um 02:35 Uhr
Von:?"dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
An:?mgs at autox.team.net
Betreff:?Re: [Mgs] [EXT] Exhaust Sound
About 2 or maybe even 3? years ago I bought a stainless steel exhaust for my MGA from Moss since they were on sale.
?

It still looks absolutely brand new.? Of course, its also still in the box.


_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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From lawrence.swift at gmail.com  Fri Jul 31 13:28:57 2020
From: lawrence.swift at gmail.com (Team.net)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 15:28:57 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust Sound
In-Reply-To: <AEA8312E-2DDD-494F-9808-7B7EC3661C69@sonic.net>
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <FF3DB89F-D470-4C1A-80C3-12EB0F3C0C7A@ur.rochester.edu>
 <792882E0-335E-42CE-A2DF-2B98F17DA6A1@sonic.net>
 <003401d666d2$8e41f1a0$aac5d4e0$@ranteer.com>
 <trinity-ae32a000-e5d3-4c29-aa9c-54a69cd58ab7-1596180278366@3c-app-gmx-bs09>
 <AEA8312E-2DDD-494F-9808-7B7EC3661C69@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <5C977E6E-49EA-4955-BD65-34035B52C24B@gmail.com>

I replaced the stock muffler with a walker; kept the rest of the standard system.

> On Jul 31, 2020, at 12:44 PM, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:
> 
> Ah, you see, that?s the case for the exhaust system as an expendable maintenance item ? its location makes it vulnerable to road hazards. The fact that it will last 100 years does?t help if you wipe it out on a speed bump in three years.
> 
> I think the comment that stainless steel has a harsher sound than mild steel is also relevant.
> 
> But mainly, I?m too cheap to spend the money on something that isn?t an appearance or a performance item. In fact, the exhaust system on my car right now is a freebie cast-off from a local acquaintance who was ?upgrading?. The local exhaust shop welded up a few holes and put in a new muffler for less than $100. In service since the early 90s.
> 
> 
> --
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB
> 
>> On Jul 31, 2020, at 12:24 AM, Bert Palte <palte at gmx.net <mailto:palte at gmx.net>> wrote:
>> 
>> When I bought my car in 1989, it came with an aftermarket exhaust system. I think the name, 
>> pressed into the muffler, was Zakspeed or Janspeed or something.
>> I liked the sound (music).
>>  
>> However, after hitting a road bump, it was beyond repair.
>>  
>> Replaced it, in 1994, with a Walker unit that is still on the car.
>> This one is too quiet to my liking (i.e. you hear the valve train too prominent...)
>>  
>> Anyone know where to find the above mentioned Janspeed or Zakspeed?
>>  
>> Bert
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> Gesendet: Freitag, 31. Juli 2020 um 02:35 Uhr
>> Von: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com>>
>> An: mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Betreff: Re: [Mgs] [EXT] Exhaust Sound
>> About 2 or maybe even 3  years ago I bought a stainless steel exhaust for my MGA from Moss since they were on sale.
>> 
>>  
>> It still looks absolutely brand new.  Of course, its also still in the box.
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lawrence.swift at gmail.com

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From ccrobins at ktc.com  Fri Jul 31 15:41:29 2020
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley Robinson)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 16:41:29 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust Sound
In-Reply-To: <582172889.10145350.1596215320431@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <FF3DB89F-D470-4C1A-80C3-12EB0F3C0C7A@ur.rochester.edu>
 <792882E0-335E-42CE-A2DF-2B98F17DA6A1@sonic.net>
 <003401d666d2$8e41f1a0$aac5d4e0$@ranteer.com>
 <trinity-ae32a000-e5d3-4c29-aa9c-54a69cd58ab7-1596180278366@3c-app-gmx-bs09>
 <AEA8312E-2DDD-494F-9808-7B7EC3661C69@sonic.net>
 <582172889.10145350.1596215320431@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <307a0ef3-41f8-f415-20b7-d9766ffe1dd8@ktc.com>

I have the Monza system in my B that I bought from Victoria British back 
in 1999. I chose it because the resonator is a small diameter with 
curved ends; figured it wouldn't get hung up on bumps and such.? VB had 
the best price at the time. The exhaust note is a bit louder than the 
stock system but it has a throaty sound.? Everyone whose heard it likes 
the sound.? The purist mightn't like it because it has two chromed 
stingers protruding out the back but I don't mind.

 ?I installed it myself with the car on jack stands.? Got everything 
positioned the way I wanted with the provided hangers and clamps, then 
took the car to a muffler shop and had all the joints welded up.? Then I 
removed the clamps to eliminate all the protrubants and called it done.? 
Been in there for a lot of years.......

CR

From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri Jul 31 17:12:56 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2020 23:12:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Exhaust Sound
In-Reply-To: <307a0ef3-41f8-f415-20b7-d9766ffe1dd8@ktc.com>
References: <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2073393927.9757742.1596143720786@mail.yahoo.com>
 <FF3DB89F-D470-4C1A-80C3-12EB0F3C0C7A@ur.rochester.edu>
 <792882E0-335E-42CE-A2DF-2B98F17DA6A1@sonic.net>
 <003401d666d2$8e41f1a0$aac5d4e0$@ranteer.com>
 <trinity-ae32a000-e5d3-4c29-aa9c-54a69cd58ab7-1596180278366@3c-app-gmx-bs09>
 <AEA8312E-2DDD-494F-9808-7B7EC3661C69@sonic.net>
 <582172889.10145350.1596215320431@mail.yahoo.com>
 <307a0ef3-41f8-f415-20b7-d9766ffe1dd8@ktc.com>
Message-ID: <1616640423.10325068.1596237176203@mail.yahoo.com>

 Just bought a Walker muffler to weld into the pipe at the center of the car.? Ordered it on CARID for $30 shipped.? Even got to specify inlet and outlet pipe size to match my car.? Get that welded in next week and see if I'm closer to the sound I am looking for.? Heck, not taking too big a chance with $30 investment.
Mike MacLean69 MBG GT60 Bugeye56 BN2 LeMans


    On Friday, July 31, 2020, 2:41:57 PM PDT, Charley Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com> wrote:  
 
 I have the Monza system in my B that I bought from Victoria British back 
in 1999. I chose it because the resonator is a small diameter with 
curved ends; figured it wouldn't get hung up on bumps and such.? VB had 
the best price at the time. The exhaust note is a bit louder than the 
stock system but it has a throaty sound.? Everyone whose heard it likes 
the sound.? The purist mightn't like it because it has two chromed 
stingers protruding out the back but I don't mind.

 ?I installed it myself with the car on jack stands.? Got everything 
positioned the way I wanted with the provided hangers and clamps, then 
took the car to a muffler shop and had all the joints welded up.? Then I 
removed the clamps to eliminate all the protrubants and called it done.? 
Been in there for a lot of years.......

CR
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