From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri May  1 01:12:00 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 08:12:00 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Rubber bumper removal
References: <11850a12-434a-2a20-b027-6b9d798adbc3@hartcom.net>
Message-ID: <35FC55375AA84ECAAD2D0E16E9D6B3A8@paul>

In the load space.  Five studs - two each side and one centrally going through into the spare wheel space. The outer corners are supported by one bracket each side, but it is not necessary to unbolt these from the body to remove the bumper, as the bumper has slots which slide off the brackets.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Front seems easy to remove but don't know where the blots are for the 
> rear. Can anyone help?
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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Fri May  1 02:30:27 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 10:30:27 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Rubber bumper removal
In-Reply-To: <35FC55375AA84ECAAD2D0E16E9D6B3A8@paul>
References: <11850a12-434a-2a20-b027-6b9d798adbc3@hartcom.net>
 <35FC55375AA84ECAAD2D0E16E9D6B3A8@paul>
Message-ID: <006101d61f92$c4ad5b30$4e081190$@planet.nl>

If my memory serves me well, the wings of the CB MG B differ of those of the
RB MG B? Should these be replaced as well?

 

Cheers,

Hans 71 BGT

 

Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens PaulHunt73 via Mgs
Verzonden: vrijdag 1 mei 2020 9:12
Aan: Jim Ray; MG Digest
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Rubber bumper removal

 

In the load space.  Five studs - two each side and one centrally going
through into the spare wheel space. The outer corners are supported by one
bracket each side, but it is not necessary to unbolt these from the body to
remove the bumper, as the bumper has slots which slide off the brackets.


PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Front seems easy to remove but don't know where the blots are for the 
> rear. Can anyone help?



-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri May  1 10:54:07 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2020 09:54:07 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Rubber bumper removal
In-Reply-To: <006101d61f92$c4ad5b30$4e081190$@planet.nl>
References: <006101d61f92$c4ad5b30$4e081190$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <5F7E5BD6-3A7E-433F-9836-0483C6B951F4@sonic.net>

Yes, they are different, but I think a conversion kit is available that supplies patch pieces to make up the difference. But I?ve never paid a lot of attention to this issue.

Sent from my iPad

> On May 1, 2020, at 1:30 AM, Hans Duinhoven via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> If my memory serves me well, the wings of the CB MG B differ of those of the RB MG B? Should these be replaced as well?
>  
> Cheers,
> Hans 71 BGT
>  
> Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens PaulHunt73 via Mgs
> Verzonden: vrijdag 1 mei 2020 9:12
> Aan: Jim Ray; MG Digest
> Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Rubber bumper removal
>  
> In the load space.  Five studs - two each side and one centrally going through into the spare wheel space. The outer corners are supported by one bracket each side, but it is not necessary to unbolt these from the body to remove the bumper, as the bumper has slots which slide off the brackets.
> 
> PaulH.
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> > Front seems easy to remove but don't know where the blots are for the 
> > rear. Can anyone help?
> 
> 	Virusvrij. www.avast.com
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
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From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sun May  3 06:35:13 2020
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 07:35:13 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] T-series work
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dya9uq0jzuszZL6Pe8py4Hh9Sm_6R2mJ5pd+gb1w4LKcw@mail.gmail.com>

Hello again friends,
   I have decided to do a bit more maintenance work on my MG TD before
driving it much. The reason for this decision is because of two sounds.
There is a 'shhhhh' kind of sound coming from either the water pump or the
generator. It's the sound a dry bushing or bearing makes before the
squealing begins...maybe. The second sound is more typical. Valve lash
chatter.
   The second noise is an indication of needed routine maintenance. The
former hints at a needed repair. Both issues will be addressed...if after
the 308GTB work and before the 1800E arrives.

Rick
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From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sun May  3 08:21:32 2020
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 09:21:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] T-series work
In-Reply-To: <8D8DB4BD-0CCB-4821-B360-73B578C15B30@gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dya9uq0jzuszZL6Pe8py4Hh9Sm_6R2mJ5pd+gb1w4LKcw@mail.gmail.com>
 <8D8DB4BD-0CCB-4821-B360-73B578C15B30@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dybfJs76E+naFiZOzr707YYs472Xm_RnH2FY6WB1p+kHg@mail.gmail.com>

   Thank you Bob. Great to know on all fronts. Regarding valves, generators
and pumps,
   A bit more valve clearance is typical of racing cams. Doing so is a
little noisy but despite a few mils less valve lift and an all but
unmeasurable timing delay, the valves 'snap' open faster. Cam wear can may
be accelerated. All of the above is a bit more applicable to direct action
overhead cam designs. But you know this.
   Bob's sage advice has encouraged me to un-mount the generator for a
rebuild. I knew about the looser drive belt tension since that advice is
true even for later model cars with alternators. Lateral stress on the
bushings is minimized. And you know that too.
   I replaced the waterpump when I rebuilt the engine a few years ago.

Thanks again Bob,

Rick

On Sun, May 3, 2020, 8:00 AM Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:

> Hi Rick,
>   The dreaded dynamo sound is heard again. It is good that you heard it
> before damage was done to armature or field coils.
>    Thoughts that others have shared about the dynamo:
>    Fan belt should be as loose as it can be w/o flipping off. Another
> measure of tension is to turn on all electrics, then spray water on the
> belt. Make it just tight enough to grip, not slip, which is about as loose
> as first thought.   Segmented belts grip better than the original wide
> belt-don?t look right but are easier on the dynamo.
>    Owner?s manual said to use grease in the brass fitting.  Others say
> that oil, used frequently to wet the felt, is better.  Most agree that
> original bushing was an Oillite or equivalent. Many of the replacement
> bushings are not. Many believe that reaming an Oillite bushing reduces its
> ability to put oil where it?s needed.  Some will drill a tiny hole right
> through the bushing, hoping that oil will get to the moving armature more
> easily.
>    Do you know the clearances for valve rockers?  .019 and .012 were MG
> specs for original camshafts.  Other clearances were specified for other
> cams. It is not helpful to tell you that I got a Crane camshaft that made
> so much noise with its specified clearances that called Crane.  An engineer
> told me that those clearances were for racing; that for normal use to
> reduce by three or four thou.  I did, and the fear factor in small children
> and neighborhood dogs was considerably reduced.  In one of his videos, John
> Twist said to use .015 for everything, unless one had specific knowledge.
>    Happy motoring!
> Bob
>
> > On May 3, 2020, at 8:35 AM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hello again friends,
> >    I have decided to do a bit more maintenance work on my MG TD before
> driving it much. The reason for this decision is because of two sounds.
> There is a 'shhhhh' kind of sound coming from either the water pump or the
> generator. It's the sound a dry bushing or bearing makes before the
> squealing begins...maybe. The second sound is more typical. Valve lash
> chatter.
> >    The second noise is an indication of needed routine maintenance. The
> former hints at a needed repair. Both issues will be addressed...if after
> the 308GTB work and before the 1800E arrives.
> >
> > Rick
>
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From thgun at comporium.net  Sun May  3 11:54:53 2020
From: thgun at comporium.net (Thomas Gunderson)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 13:54:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGA AIR FILTER
Message-ID: <D1A7A244-3F6D-4D7C-B460-08042581BE75@comporium.net>


I have a 1957 MGA rst 1500.
I have the air filters that aremetal zig zag all the way around the original style filter. A tuffcotton woven with the metal.should the filters be oiled or dry? Do I need to make a cut in the filter for the blowback air hose?
Thanks,
Tom
Sent from my iPhone X




From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Sun May  3 12:06:04 2020
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 13:06:04 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] T-series work
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dybfJs76E+naFiZOzr707YYs472Xm_RnH2FY6WB1p+kHg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dya9uq0jzuszZL6Pe8py4Hh9Sm_6R2mJ5pd+gb1w4LKcw@mail.gmail.com>
 <8D8DB4BD-0CCB-4821-B360-73B578C15B30@gmail.com>
 <CAOc+-dybfJs76E+naFiZOzr707YYs472Xm_RnH2FY6WB1p+kHg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dy2iiZhHL5LZqZ_AEmGMTUFxPSDai--GUHA-Ccb644VcQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hello friends,
   The generator came off, got cleaned and lubricated, went back on with a
loose drive belt, and is now working properly...and quietly.
   A short drive verified the claims in the previous sentence. Thank you
Bob, *et al*., for your ongoing sage advice.

Rick

On Sun, May 3, 2020, 9:21 AM Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay at gmail.com>
wrote:

>    Thank you Bob. Great to know on all fronts. Regarding valves,
> generators and pumps,
>    A bit more valve clearance is typical of racing cams. Doing so is a
> little noisy but despite a few mils less valve lift and an all but
> unmeasurable timing delay, the valves 'snap' open faster. Cam wear can may
> be accelerated. All of the above is a bit more applicable to direct action
> overhead cam designs. But you know this.
>    Bob's sage advice has encouraged me to un-mount the generator for a
> rebuild. I knew about the looser drive belt tension since that advice is
> true even for later model cars with alternators. Lateral stress on the
> bushings is minimized. And you know that too.
>    I replaced the waterpump when I rebuilt the engine a few years ago.
>
> Thanks again Bob,
>
> Rick
>
> On Sun, May 3, 2020, 8:00 AM Robert's New iPad <mgbobh at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Rick,
>>   The dreaded dynamo sound is heard again. It is good that you heard it
>> before damage was done to armature or field coils.
>>    Thoughts that others have shared about the dynamo:
>>    Fan belt should be as loose as it can be w/o flipping off. Another
>> measure of tension is to turn on all electrics, then spray water on the
>> belt. Make it just tight enough to grip, not slip, which is about as loose
>> as first thought.   Segmented belts grip better than the original wide
>> belt-don?t look right but are easier on the dynamo.
>>    Owner?s manual said to use grease in the brass fitting.  Others say
>> that oil, used frequently to wet the felt, is better.  Most agree that
>> original bushing was an Oillite or equivalent. Many of the replacement
>> bushings are not. Many believe that reaming an Oillite bushing reduces its
>> ability to put oil where it?s needed.  Some will drill a tiny hole right
>> through the bushing, hoping that oil will get to the moving armature more
>> easily.
>>    Do you know the clearances for valve rockers?  .019 and .012 were MG
>> specs for original camshafts.  Other clearances were specified for other
>> cams. It is not helpful to tell you that I got a Crane camshaft that made
>> so much noise with its specified clearances that called Crane.  An engineer
>> told me that those clearances were for racing; that for normal use to
>> reduce by three or four thou.  I did, and the fear factor in small children
>> and neighborhood dogs was considerably reduced.  In one of his videos, John
>> Twist said to use .015 for everything, unless one had specific knowledge.
>>    Happy motoring!
>> Bob
>>
>> > On May 3, 2020, at 8:35 AM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
>> wrote:
>> >
>> > Hello again friends,
>> >    I have decided to do a bit more maintenance work on my MG TD before
>> driving it much. The reason for this decision is because of two sounds.
>> There is a 'shhhhh' kind of sound coming from either the water pump or the
>> generator. It's the sound a dry bushing or bearing makes before the
>> squealing begins...maybe. The second sound is more typical. Valve lash
>> chatter.
>> >    The second noise is an indication of needed routine maintenance. The
>> former hints at a needed repair. Both issues will be addressed...if after
>> the 308GTB work and before the 1800E arrives.
>> >
>> > Rick
>>
>
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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun May  3 13:12:56 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 15:12:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs MGA AIR FILTER
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1588528801.21715.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1588528801.21715.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <e7879185-0bfb-e8b5-a421-3a618e10fdf1@mebtel.net>

Almost anything knowable about the MGA can be found in the MGA Guru's 
Tech Pages: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/

Re: MGA Air Filters - yes, they should be oiled. The MGA Owner's Manual 
is available here: 
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/pdf/Drivers_Handbook_1600.pdf The front 
filter plate has a short pipe for the rocker breather. The MGA filter 
easily bends around it.

Having noted the above, It should be mentioned that the MGA Air Filters 
are more for keeping rocks & small birds out. Alternate filters are 
shown here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb200.htm To fit these 
filters you will need to carve away a bit of the filter to clear the 
breather fitting.

Not stock in appearance but I use K&N RU4410 attached to MGB SU air 
entry smoothers. Much easier to R/R the filters and real filtration. 
Pictures here: 
https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-gt-forum.1/attaching-k-and-n-ru-4410-filters.1436061/ 


Eric Russell
Mebane, NC


> Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 13:54:53 -0400
> From: Thomas Gunderson
>
> I have a 1957 MGA rst 1500.
> I have the air filters that aremetal zig zag all the way around the original style filter. A tuffcotton woven with the metal.should the filters be oiled or dry? Do I need to make a cut in the filter for the blowback air hose?
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>


From spridget at gmail.com  Sun May  3 18:32:05 2020
From: spridget at gmail.com (Stan Fickes)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 20:32:05 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs MGA AIR FILTER
In-Reply-To: <e7879185-0bfb-e8b5-a421-3a618e10fdf1@mebtel.net>
References: <mailman.3.1588528801.21715.mgs@autox.team.net>
 <e7879185-0bfb-e8b5-a421-3a618e10fdf1@mebtel.net>
Message-ID: <CAK23Kv9mSgPZ0QhqbCRZserAnw7gKjp_TTw0T0C5r_SGOmV4Gg@mail.gmail.com>

As Barney says, the Fram CA77 will squeeze onto the factory plates. A notch
has to be carved out, but it only takes a minute with an X-Acto. (Amusing
note -- my Deere garden tractor uses the CA77 but neither sounds as good
nor is as fun to drive.) Changing the perished factory filter elements to
the CA77 led to another problem. The increased flow resistance of the CA77
caused reduced air pressure inside the filter/carb mouth, causing oil to be
sucked up the breather hose, which led to increased oil consumption and oil
dripping out of the rear filter. To remedy this, I JB Welded a bit of
hardware cloth inside the rocker cover, and inserted some stainless steel
scrubber (like Kurly Kate) in the pipe coming out of the cover. The
scrubber catches the oil so it might drain back into the rocker rather than
travel up the hose. It's worked for me, though I'm now braced for
constructive criticism (You did WHAT?!?). I suspect the MGB K&N solution
flows better and leads to (perhaps marginally) better performance with less
oil draw. I suppose another solution to filtering breather input air with
no concern as to stock appearance might be something like
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-2164 on top of the rocker cover, or
bracketed nearby if clearance is insufficient.
sf

On Sun, May 3, 2020 at 3:13 PM Eric Russell via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Almost anything knowable about the MGA can be found in the MGA Guru's
> Tech Pages: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/
>
> Re: MGA Air Filters - yes, they should be oiled. The MGA Owner's Manual
> is available here:
> http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/books/pdf/Drivers_Handbook_1600.pdf The front
> filter plate has a short pipe for the rocker breather. The MGA filter
> easily bends around it.
>
> Having noted the above, It should be mentioned that the MGA Air Filters
> are more for keeping rocks & small birds out. Alternate filters are
> shown here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb200.htm To fit these
> filters you will need to carve away a bit of the filter to clear the
> breather fitting.
>
> Not stock in appearance but I use K&N RU4410 attached to MGB SU air
> entry smoothers. Much easier to R/R the filters and real filtration.
> Pictures here:
>
> https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-gt-forum.1/attaching-k-and-n-ru-4410-filters.1436061/
>
>
> Eric Russell
> Mebane, NC
>
>
> > Date: Sun, 3 May 2020 13:54:53 -0400
> > From: Thomas Gunderson
> >
> > I have a 1957 MGA rst 1500.
> > I have the air filters that aremetal zig zag all the way around the
> original style filter. A tuffcotton woven with the metal.should the filters
> be oiled or dry? Do I need to make a cut in the filter for the blowback air
> hose?
> > Thanks,
> > Tom
>
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From barrob at bell.net  Tue May  5 15:46:00 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 17:46:00 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Brake filaure
Message-ID: <a0780292-ec60-6f0e-96e2-3390b80ce347@bell.net>

Hello folks,

I have a power assist brake system which after bringing out of winter 
cover my MGB GT V8 exhibited brake failure? No brake fluid on the floor 
but it did need topping up.?? So added Dot 4 but still soft squashy 
pedal.??? Blowing/sucking? on tube to Edelbrock carb (I have a Rover V8 
dropped in) it sucked but would not blow (I understand this is 
correct}.? So we figured that the brakes need bleeding - is this a 
correct diagnosis? Any tips for a non-brake but fairly well versed 
owner.?? If I stomped a lot on the pedal when engine running would that 
put air into the brake pipes

Cheers
Barrie
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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue May  5 16:29:31 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave at ranteer.com)
Date: Tue, 05 May 2020 15:29:31 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Brake filaure
Message-ID: <20200505152931.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.1cf21fa9f0.wbe@email26.godaddy.com>

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed May  6 01:23:42 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 08:23:42 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Brake filaure
References: <a0780292-ec60-6f0e-96e2-3390b80ce347@bell.net>
Message-ID: <DA8F723D87054ECCBC791DDA1F8FF644@paul>

I'm not aware that blowing and sucking on any tube at the carb will help in diagnosing the brakes.  If you mean the servo hose that should come from the inlet manifold but still be no help.

Stomping on the pedal should not put air into the system, if it does then there is a fault somewhere that needs to be found.

Is this single-circuit or dual-circuit brakes?  The former should have a 'slow-return' valve in the master outlet and with that if a couple of quick pumps on the pedal makes the pedal shorter and harder, but then it goes long and spongy again if released for a few seconds, that does indicate air in the system.  Dual circuit varied.

Unless the fluid level in the master dropped right down to outlet level, or you have opened the plumbing anywhere, you should not get air in the system by being parked up.  A leak will of course lower the level, could possibly allow air in I suppose, but doubtful in my mind.  I've found that fluid dropping on a concrete floor 'evaporates' over time.  Check the carpets under the pedal as that is another place where fluid goes if the master secondary seal fails.

Bleeding method varies according to system type i.e. single or dual.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 

  I have a power assist brake system which after bringing out of winter cover my MGB GT V8 exhibited brake failure  No brake fluid on the floor but it did need topping up.   So added Dot 4 but still soft squashy pedal.    Blowing/sucking  on tube to Edelbrock carb (I have a Rover V8 dropped in) it sucked but would not blow (I understand this is correct}.  So we figured that the brakes need bleeding - is this a correct diagnosis?  Any tips for a non-brake but fairly well versed owner.   If I stomped a lot on the pedal when engine running would that put air into the brake pipes
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed May  6 10:59:25 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 09:59:25 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Brake filaure
In-Reply-To: <DA8F723D87054ECCBC791DDA1F8FF644@paul>
References: <a0780292-ec60-6f0e-96e2-3390b80ce347@bell.net>
 <DA8F723D87054ECCBC791DDA1F8FF644@paul>
Message-ID: <F76DD23F-5B1F-49F0-B7F9-D2A1851E49B2@sonic.net>

I have heard of ?disappearing brake fluid? cases where it has been sucked into the booster due to a leak in the master cylinder seal. Normally one would expect it to drip into the footwell, but engine vacuum sucks it in and burns it. In any case, mere bleeding is not going to solve this issue. It definitely went somewhere.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On May 6, 2020, at 12:23 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> I'm not aware that blowing and sucking on any tube at the carb will help in diagnosing the brakes.  If you mean the servo hose that should come from the inlet manifold but still be no help.
>  
> Stomping on the pedal should not put air into the system, if it does then there is a fault somewhere that needs to be found.
>  
> Is this single-circuit or dual-circuit brakes?  The former should have a 'slow-return' valve in the master outlet and with that if a couple of quick pumps on the pedal makes the pedal shorter and harder, but then it goes long and spongy again if released for a few seconds, that does indicate air in the system.  Dual circuit varied.
>  
> Unless the fluid level in the master dropped right down to outlet level, or you have opened the plumbing anywhere, you should not get air in the system by being parked up.  A leak will of course lower the level, could possibly allow air in I suppose, but doubtful in my mind.  I've found that fluid dropping on a concrete floor 'evaporates' over time.  Check the carpets under the pedal as that is another place where fluid goes if the master secondary seal fails.
>  
> Bleeding method varies according to system type i.e. single or dual.
>  
> PaulH.
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>> I have a power assist brake system which after bringing out of winter cover my MGB GT V8 exhibited brake failure  No brake fluid on the floor but it did need topping up.   So added Dot 4 but still soft squashy pedal.    Blowing/sucking  on tube to Edelbrock carb (I have a Rover V8 dropped in) it sucked but would not blow (I understand this is correct}.  So we figured that the brakes need bleeding - is this a correct diagnosis?  Any tips for a non-brake but fairly well versed owner.   If I stomped a lot on the pedal when engine running would that put air into the brake pipes
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net>

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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Wed May  6 11:33:21 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 19:33:21 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Brake filaure
In-Reply-To: <F76DD23F-5B1F-49F0-B7F9-D2A1851E49B2@sonic.net>
References: <a0780292-ec60-6f0e-96e2-3390b80ce347@bell.net>
 <DA8F723D87054ECCBC791DDA1F8FF644@paul>
 <F76DD23F-5B1F-49F0-B7F9-D2A1851E49B2@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <006a01d623cc$70306a50$50913ef0$@planet.nl>

I can confirm this. Have a friend, who also had phantom leaks, where the fluid disappeared into the vacuum box the the power brake system.

 

Cheers,

Hans 71 BGT

 

Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Max Heim via Mgs
Verzonden: woensdag 6 mei 2020 18:59
Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Brake filaure

 

I have heard of ?disappearing brake fluid? cases where it has been sucked into the booster due to a leak in the master cylinder seal. Normally one would expect it to drip into the footwell, but engine vacuum sucks it in and burns it. In any case, mere bleeding is not going to solve this issue. It definitely went somewhere.

 

--

Max Heim

'66 MGB

 

On May 6, 2020, at 12:23 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:

 

I'm not aware that blowing and sucking on any tube at the carb will help in diagnosing the brakes.  If you mean the servo hose that should come from the inlet manifold but still be no help.

 

Stomping on the pedal should not put air into the system, if it does then there is a fault somewhere that needs to be found.

 

Is this single-circuit or dual-circuit brakes?  The former should have a 'slow-return' valve in the master outlet and with that if a couple of quick pumps on the pedal makes the pedal shorter and harder, but then it goes long and spongy again if released for a few seconds, that does indicate air in the system.  Dual circuit varied.

 

Unless the fluid level in the master dropped right down to outlet level, or you have opened the plumbing anywhere, you should not get air in the system by being parked up.  A leak will of course lower the level, could possibly allow air in I suppose, but doubtful in my mind.  I've found that fluid dropping on a concrete floor 'evaporates' over time.  Check the carpets under the pedal as that is another place where fluid goes if the master secondary seal fails.

 

Bleeding method varies according to system type i.e. single or dual.

 

PaulH.

----- Original Message -----


I have a power assist brake system which after bringing out of winter cover my MGB GT V8 exhibited brake failure  No brake fluid on the floor but it did need topping up.   So added Dot 4 but still soft squashy pedal.    Blowing/sucking  on tube to Edelbrock carb (I have a Rover V8 dropped in) it sucked but would not blow (I understand this is correct}.  So we figured that the brakes need bleeding - is this a correct diagnosis?  Any tips for a non-brake but fairly well versed owner.   If I stomped a lot on the pedal when engine running would that put air into the brake pipes

_______________________________________________

 <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net> Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:  <http://www.team.net/donate.html> http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive:  <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs  <http://autox.team.net/archive> http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe:  <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

 



-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Wed May  6 12:28:44 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 14:28:44 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Brake filaure
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1588788001.20312.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1588788001.20312.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8f82c082-215f-a24f-d3c6-fd688f2c4e3f@mebtel.net>

I mean no offense but brakes are rather high on the List of Important 
Things. I am 100% in favor of owners working on their own cars but I 
also get somewhat leery of giving advice about Important Things via 
typed words over the interwebs. (and that is not even taking 
misspellings into account...)

That said, the loss of a measureable volume of brake fluid over the 
winter would indicate a leak somewhere. It must be found and rectified 
(that List of Important Things thing). My general rule is that when part 
of a brake system fails all the other parts are soon to follow. You can 
replace parts one item at a time but don't be surprised when another 
part fails soon afterwards (see: List of Important Things). So... unless 
you find a reasonable reason for one part to have failed while leaving 
all the other parts are in perfect shape (Important Things again), it 
would probably be prudent to replace all the wearable parts of the 
brake's hydraulics in one swell foop. Then, when you're done you'll know 
the brakes are in tip top shape.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
> Date: Tue, 5 May 2020 17:46:00 -0400
> From: Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net>
> To: MGB List <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Brake filaure
>
>
> I have a power assist brake system which after bringing out of winter
> cover my MGB GT V8 exhibited brake failure? No brake fluid on the floor
> but it did need topping up.?? So added Dot 4 but still soft squashy
> pedal.??? Blowing/sucking? on tube to Edelbrock carb (I have a Rover V8
> dropped in) it sucked but would not blow (I understand this is
> correct}.? So we figured that the brakes need bleeding - is this a
> correct diagnosis? Any tips for a non-brake but fairly well versed
> owner.?? If I stomped a lot on the pedal when engine running would that
> put air into the brake pipes
>
> Cheers
> Barrie


From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Wed May  6 15:36:28 2020
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2020 14:36:28 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Brake filaure
In-Reply-To: <DA8F723D87054ECCBC791DDA1F8FF644@paul>
References: <a0780292-ec60-6f0e-96e2-3390b80ce347@bell.net>
 <DA8F723D87054ECCBC791DDA1F8FF644@paul>
Message-ID: <CACOF-TqBn0Hkt1f=SkN=apJ4dCLoWaWK_xde8khw7jrWne3wiw@mail.gmail.com>

Blowing/sucking into the hose from the intake to the booster will verify if
the one way valve is functioning.  That it is all it will tell you.  The
described condition is not consistent with a failed one way valve.
A leaky master can leak fluid into the booster. and eventually if the
amount of fluid builds up enough it will get sucked into the engine and
burned.*.  Quite often when the master is leaking like this you can see a
trail of brake fluid and dust on the face of the booster directly below the
master cylinder itself.
the other common source for mystery brake fluid disappearances is the rear
wheel cylinders.  Between where they are located on the backing plate, and
the dust in the rear brakes it can take a fair amount of leakage before any
is visible.  I would suggest  if the booster is dry, you pull the rear
drums and examine the wheel cylinders.  If there is no obvious leaks, be
sure to peel the boots back and check inside.

hope this helps
Rick

* I had a friend that had a Series 1 E Type.  One day he comes out for a
drive and checking under the hood he sees the brake fluid is low.  He grabs
a can and starts pouring.  All of a sudden the car is billowing acrid white
smoke AND the master reservoir is not getting full.  After a couple of
second of Whaaaaaa?  He realized that the master had failed and the booster
was full to the vacuum hose port, so everything he poured in was going
right out the exhaust.

On Wed, May 6, 2020 at 12:49 AM PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> I'm not aware that blowing and sucking on any tube at the carb will help
> in diagnosing the brakes.  If you mean the servo hose that should come from
> the inlet manifold but still be no help.
>
> Stomping on the pedal should not put air into the system, if it does then
> there is a fault somewhere that needs to be found.
>
> Is this single-circuit or dual-circuit brakes?  The former should have a
> 'slow-return' valve in the master outlet and with that if a couple of
> quick pumps on the pedal makes the pedal shorter and harder, but then it
> goes long and spongy again if released for a few seconds, that does
> indicate air in the system.  Dual circuit varied.
>
> Unless the fluid level in the master dropped right down to outlet level,
> or you have opened the plumbing anywhere, you should not get air in the
> system by being parked up.  A leak will of course lower the level, could
> possibly allow air in I suppose, but doubtful in my mind.  I've found that
> fluid dropping on a concrete floor 'evaporates' over time.  Check the
> carpets under the pedal as that is another place where fluid goes if the
> master secondary seal fails.
>
> Bleeding method varies according to system type i.e. single or dual.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> I have a power assist brake system which after bringing out of winter
> cover my MGB GT V8 exhibited brake failure  No brake fluid on the floor but
> it did need topping up.   So added Dot 4 but still soft squashy pedal.
> Blowing/sucking  on tube to Edelbrock carb (I have a Rover V8 dropped in)
> it sucked but would not blow (I understand this is correct}.  So we figured
> that the brakes need bleeding - is this a correct diagnosis?  Any tips for
> a non-brake but fairly well versed owner.   If I stomped a lot on the pedal
> when engine running would that put air into the brake pipes
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richard.ewald at gmail.com
>
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Thu May  7 01:15:03 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 08:15:03 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Brake filaure
References: <a0780292-ec60-6f0e-96e2-3390b80ce347@bell.net>
 <DA8F723D87054ECCBC791DDA1F8FF644@paul>
 <F76DD23F-5B1F-49F0-B7F9-D2A1851E49B2@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <DDDDE0222AE6489EB28CE0BDFCD03AEC@paul>

That's not going to happen while it is parked up over winter.
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  I have heard of ?disappearing brake fluid? cases where it has been sucked into the booster due to a leak in the master cylinder seal. Normally one would expect it to drip into the footwell, but engine vacuum sucks it in and burns it. In any case, mere bleeding is not going to solve this issue. It definitely went somewhere.
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From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Thu May  7 05:56:45 2020
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 06:56:45 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>

Hello friends,
   It is so quiet here - and the same on the TR3 and TR6 lists. I hope you
are well and busy completing other projects. That's what I have been doing.
   My TR6 sits awaiting more attention. Only this past week have we gotten
out a bit, if still 'distancing', to convert a noun into a verb.
   I glued down a little carpet last Saturday and hope to make a little
more progress today. That carpet bit is on the rear shelf and under the
upholstered closing board, yet to be installed but now it can go in.
Progress, if slow. But that's what a car building hobby may be, and that's
okay.

   Are you restoring? Servicing? Or even motoring a bit? I have no gauge to
measure how much of the country is still locked down. Texas is relaxing its
shut-down orders a bit, if perhaps a little early. I fear we have become
numb to the warnings and our behavior complacent in lack of precautions.

Rick, in a mask
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From barrob at bell.net  Thu May  7 07:41:49 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 09:41:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <28a1f58b-389d-42bb-9078-3e2302d0550f@bell.net>

Hello folks,

It is all quiet here too but not much complaining as we all realise that 
the current problem will not go away if we behave like petulant school 
kids.?? We fixed my failed brakes on the MGB GT V8 thankfully - wasn't 
much of a problem but bleeding brakes is a bit time consuming.? I think 
I will get those Speedbleeders as they sound good.

It is so funny that it has taken a death dealing disease to bring out 
the pleasant parts of the public - and improve the pitiful pollution 
problem.

All the best to all - and use your face mask !!
Cheers
Barrie

On 5/7/2020 7:56 AM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote:
> Hello friends,
> ? ?It is so quiet here - and the same on the TR3 and TR6 lists. I hope 
> you are well and busy completing other projects. That's what I have 
> been doing.
> ? ?My TR6 sits awaiting more attention. Only this past week have we 
> gotten out a bit, if still 'distancing', to convert a noun into a verb.
> ? ?I glued down a little carpet last Saturday and hope to make a 
> little more progress today. That carpet bit is on the rear shelf and 
> under the upholstered closing board, yet to be installed but now it 
> can go in. Progress, if slow. But that's what a car building hobby may 
> be, and that's okay.
>
> ? ?Are you restoring? Servicing? Or even motoring a bit? I have no 
> gauge to measure how much of the country is still locked down. Texas 
> is relaxing its shut-down orders a bit, if perhaps a little early. I 
> fear we have become numb to the warnings and our behavior complacent 
> in lack of precautions.
>
> Rick, in a mask
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net

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From barrob at bell.net  Thu May  7 08:15:59 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 10:15:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speedbleeders
Message-ID: <c9b89877-c47e-8c6e-3461-85a91084a8ef@bell.net>

Hello members,

After spending a lot of time bleeding my brakes I decided to buy 
Speedbleeders.? Can anyone tell me what size the brakes nipples are the 
1970 MGB GT back and front(discs}??? Hopefully someone has installed 
them on their MGB ???? Are there other brands of these bleeders?

Cheers
Barrie
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From ptroot at gmail.com  Thu May  7 08:23:18 2020
From: ptroot at gmail.com (Paul Root)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 09:23:18 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Speedbleeders
In-Reply-To: <c9b89877-c47e-8c6e-3461-85a91084a8ef@bell.net>
References: <c9b89877-c47e-8c6e-3461-85a91084a8ef@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CAPxc_gH+G3oBXLOgu-L0FAecbSqGAsJMGZ4CRhFA7F=i6A6KtQ@mail.gmail.com>

Did the brakes ever change through the years?

You reminded me, I ordered speedbleeders, last year, but never got around
to installing them.

I got SB3824  3/8 x 24  and SB1428 1/4 x 28


On Thu, May 7, 2020 at 9:16 AM Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:

> Hello members,
>
> After spending a lot of time bleeding my brakes I decided to buy
> Speedbleeders.  Can anyone tell me what size the brakes nipples are the
> 1970 MGB GT back and front(discs}?   Hopefully someone has installed them
> on their MGB ???  Are there other brands of these bleeders?
>
> Cheers
> Barrie
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgb-v8 at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgb-v8/ptroot at gmail.com
>
>
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu May  7 11:03:44 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 10:03:44 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
In-Reply-To: <28a1f58b-389d-42bb-9078-3e2302d0550f@bell.net>
References: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <28a1f58b-389d-42bb-9078-3e2302d0550f@bell.net>
Message-ID: <2A5BF7D8-8C58-4650-8509-89AC28E7E540@sonic.net>

I replaced the vent window rubber seals over the weekend. These were newly installed by the body shop while they had the car over 2015-2018, but they had already split by the time I picked the car up. The shop said they were a rubbish batch and would replace them if & when they got better parts. But I never did anything about it since they are an hour?s drive away and dropping off the car is too much hassle.

While bored last month I ordered a set from TRF. I figured out a way to replace them without pulling the entire vent window frame out of the door. It went tolerably smoothly, although it is a little difficult to force the rubber into the grooves with the whole thing flopping about as opposed to on a bench.

I found that the shop had failed to replace either of the two large bolts (under the plastic covers) on the passenger door, which left that frame somewhat wobbly. I couldn?t get the top one aligned, but at least I got one of them in.

There is another job I should be doing but for which I haven?t gathered the gumption ? I need to touch up the paint around the wheel well segment of the front valance. I had to seriously mangle this with pliers when I installed it. While I am mixing paint I should deal with the self-inflicted dings on the door as well. And so it goes.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB



> On May 7, 2020, at 6:41 AM, Barrie Robinson via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Hello folks,
> 
> It is all quiet here too but not much complaining as we all realise that the current problem will not go away if we behave like petulant school kids.   We fixed my failed brakes on the MGB GT V8 thankfully - wasn't much of a problem but bleeding brakes is a bit time consuming.  I think I will get those Speedbleeders as they sound good.
> 
> It is so funny that it has taken a death dealing disease to bring out the pleasant parts of the public - and improve the pitiful pollution problem.
> 
> All the best to all - and use your face mask !!
> Cheers
> Barrie
> 
> On 5/7/2020 7:56 AM, Richard Lindsay via Mgs wrote:
>> Hello friends,
>>    It is so quiet here - and the same on the TR3 and TR6 lists. I hope you are well and busy completing other projects. That's what I have been doing.
>>    My TR6 sits awaiting more attention. Only this past week have we gotten out a bit, if still 'distancing', to convert a noun into a verb.
>>    I glued down a little carpet last Saturday and hope to make a little more progress today. That carpet bit is on the rear shelf and under the upholstered closing board, yet to be installed but now it can go in. Progress, if slow. But that's what a car building hobby may be, and that's okay.
>> 
>>    Are you restoring? Servicing? Or even motoring a bit? I have no gauge to measure how much of the country is still locked down. Texas is relaxing its shut-down orders a bit, if perhaps a little early. I fear we have become numb to the warnings and our behavior complacent in lack of precautions. 
>> 
>> Rick, in a mask
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

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From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu May  7 11:05:46 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 10:05:46 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Speedbleeders
In-Reply-To: <CAPxc_gH+G3oBXLOgu-L0FAecbSqGAsJMGZ4CRhFA7F=i6A6KtQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <c9b89877-c47e-8c6e-3461-85a91084a8ef@bell.net>
 <CAPxc_gH+G3oBXLOgu-L0FAecbSqGAsJMGZ4CRhFA7F=i6A6KtQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7BB4F2FA-3E55-4792-9207-AF28297988BF@sonic.net>

I don?t think the brake spec ever changed for the vanilla 4cyl B.

Don?t know about the C or V8.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On May 7, 2020, at 7:23 AM, Paul Root via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Did the brakes ever change through the years?
> 
> You reminded me, I ordered speedbleeders, last year, but never got around to installing them.
> 
> I got SB3824  3/8 x 24  and SB1428 1/4 x 28
> 
> 
> On Thu, May 7, 2020 at 9:16 AM Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net <mailto:barrob at bell.net>> wrote:
> Hello members, 
> 
> After spending a lot of time bleeding my brakes I decided to buy Speedbleeders.  Can anyone tell me what size the brakes nipples are the 1970 MGB GT back and front(discs}?   Hopefully someone has installed them on their MGB ???  Are there other brands of these bleeders?
> 
> Cheers
> Barrie
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgb-v8 at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgb-v8 at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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> 
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> 
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> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu May  7 11:14:59 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 19:14:59 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
Message-ID: <007401d62493$0ae99140$20bcb3c0$@planet.nl>

 

Awaiting parts from the MG parts store.

Takes a bit more time than normal to deliver.

Then replacing a leaky rear shock absorber and doing a normal maintenance job. 

Recent jobs were replacing most of the cooling liquid hoses and finally fixing the dreadful oil consumption with a very cheap fix ? a new oil filler cap.

 

Cheers,

Hans

 

Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Richard Lindsay via Mgs
Verzonden: donderdag 7 mei 2020 13:57
Aan: mgs at autox.team.net List
Onderwerp: [Mgs] Mostly quiet

 

Hello friends,

   It is so quiet here - and the same on the TR3 and TR6 lists. I hope you are well and busy completing other projects. That's what I have been doing.

   My TR6 sits awaiting more attention. Only this past week have we gotten out a bit, if still 'distancing', to convert a noun into a verb.

   I glued down a little carpet last Saturday and hope to make a little more progress today. That carpet bit is on the rear shelf and under the upholstered closing board, yet to be installed but now it can go in. Progress, if slow. But that's what a car building hobby may be, and that's okay.

 

   Are you restoring? Servicing? Or even motoring a bit? I have no gauge to measure how much of the country is still locked down. Texas is relaxing its shut-down orders a bit, if perhaps a little early. I fear we have become numb to the warnings and our behavior complacent in lack of precautions. 

 

Rick, in a mask



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From mark at bradakis.com  Thu May  7 11:31:13 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 11:31:13 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
In-Reply-To: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51be93bd-9118-a63a-898a-93c74f7985f9@bradakis.com>

You would think that traffic on the lists might pick up a bit with more 
folks staying at home and looking for things to do.

What I would like to see is folks going to 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/the-local and subscribing to that 
list.? It is the proper place for diversions like the 'old sayings' 
thread on the 6pack list that was not exactly appropriate material for 
this list, but some folks enjoyed, while others complained about off-topic.

I do what I can, but can't please everybody all the time.? Such is life.

Stay healthy, my friends.

mjb.



From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu May  7 12:34:16 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 18:34:16 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] [Mgb-v8] Speedbleeders
In-Reply-To: <7BB4F2FA-3E55-4792-9207-AF28297988BF@sonic.net>
References: <c9b89877-c47e-8c6e-3461-85a91084a8ef@bell.net>
 <CAPxc_gH+G3oBXLOgu-L0FAecbSqGAsJMGZ4CRhFA7F=i6A6KtQ@mail.gmail.com>
 <7BB4F2FA-3E55-4792-9207-AF28297988BF@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <279788687.2954666.1588876456189@mail.yahoo.com>

 63-80 MGB front disc Speedbleeder part number SB 3824, rear drum part number SB 1428.Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT60 Bugeye56 Austin Healey BN2 (all have speedbleeders)

    On Thursday, May 7, 2020, 10:05:52 AM PDT, Max Heim via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
 I don?t think the brake spec ever changed for the vanilla 4cyl B.
Don?t know about the C or V8.
--Max Heim'66 MGB

On May 7, 2020, at 7:23 AM, Paul Root via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
Did the brakes ever change through the years?
You reminded me, I ordered speedbleeders, last year, but never got around to installing them.
I got SB3824? 3/8 x 24? and SB1428 1/4 x 28

On Thu, May 7, 2020 at 9:16 AM Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:

  Hello members, 
 
 After spending a lot of time bleeding my brakes I decided to buy Speedbleeders.? Can anyone tell me what size the brakes nipples are the 1970 MGB GT back and front(discs}??? Hopefully someone has installed them on their MGB ???? Are there other brands of these bleeders?
 
 Cheers
 Barrie
  _______________________________________________

Mgb-v8 at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgb-v8/ptroot at gmail.com


_______________________________________________

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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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_______________________________________________

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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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From britfan1 at epix.net  Thu May  7 19:14:20 2020
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 21:14:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
In-Reply-To: <51be93bd-9118-a63a-898a-93c74f7985f9@bradakis.com>
References: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <51be93bd-9118-a63a-898a-93c74f7985f9@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.111.1588900467.2961.mgs@autox.team.net>

Well, here?s something to break the (relative) silence:
       We need to install the replacement dash cover on a 1980 MGB.  Any tips from those who have already done it?

Sarah Carr
?71 B/GT in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri May  8 01:35:28 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 08:35:28 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
References: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <51be93bd-9118-a63a-898a-93c74f7985f9@bradakis.com>
 <20200508012007.D1054A0F47@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B21AFA586ED74AFDAB9F10CBBD236C79@paul>

Ideally it's done with the screen out as it tucks under the apron seal, but you can probably get round that - once you have the old cover off.  Also the dash crash rail removed, which probably needs the dash to be removed or again you have the edge facing you to deal with.  I did my 73 as part of a restoration so all that was out of the way anyway.

Remove the screen vents.

Then it depends on how easily you can get the old one off, and how smooth it leaves the surface.  Use spray adhesive to fix the new one, and cut the slots for the screen vents afterwards.  

That's by memory from 32 years ago anyway.

PaulH.


----- Original Message ----- 
  We need to install the replacement dash cover on a 1980 MGB.  Any tips from those who have already done it?
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From britfan1 at epix.net  Fri May  8 11:37:47 2020
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 13:37:47 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
In-Reply-To: <B21AFA586ED74AFDAB9F10CBBD236C79@paul>
References: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <51be93bd-9118-a63a-898a-93c74f7985f9@bradakis.com>
 <20200508012007.D1054A0F47@autox.team.net>
 <B21AFA586ED74AFDAB9F10CBBD236C79@paul>
Message-ID: <mailman.113.1588959474.2961.mgs@autox.team.net>

Hmmm --  definite difference here between your comments and the instructions that came with the Moss panel (?Dash top pad covers,? 453-905).  The pad is meant  to be glued over the old pad, once all of its cracks and lumps have been smoothed down.

Anyone else have experience with this item?

Thanks,
Sarah

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: PaulHunt73
Sent: Friday, May 8, 2020 3:51 AM
To: S.Carr; mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mostly quiet

Ideally it's done with the screen out as it tucks under the apron seal, but you can probably get round that - once you have the old?cover off.? Also the dash crash rail removed, which probably needs the dash to be removed or again you have the edge facing you to deal with.? I did my 73 as part of a restoration so all that was out of the way anyway.
?
Remove the screen vents.
?
Then it?depends on how easily you can get the old one off, and how smooth it leaves the surface.? Use spray adhesive to fix the new one, and cut the slots for the screen vents afterwards.? 
?
That's by memory from 32 years ago anyway.
?
PaulH.

?
?
----- Original Message ----- 
We need to install the replacement dash cover on a 1980 MGB.? Any tips from those who have already done it?
?

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From steve at shoyer.com  Fri May  8 12:18:31 2020
From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 14:18:31 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
In-Reply-To: <20200508173924.D2E49A104C@autox.team.net>
References: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <51be93bd-9118-a63a-898a-93c74f7985f9@bradakis.com>
 <20200508012007.D1054A0F47@autox.team.net>
 <B21AFA586ED74AFDAB9F10CBBD236C79@paul>
 <20200508173924.D2E49A104C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <e8567241-c3a5-a5dc-8b86-1763622b0c70@shoyer.com>

There was one installed on my 1980 MGB when I bought the car.? It looked 
OK, a lot better than the dash it was covering.? I swapped dashes a 
couple of years ago and removed the cover - it looked like it had been 
held on with thick beads/smears of flexible adhesive, like a silicone.? 
Looking at the cover panel there isn't any sign that it was trimmed.? 
Since the adhesive on mine was pretty clearly not applied only at the 
outside edges, the PO of my car might have bought a different cover, or 
just ignored the instructions.? Whatever the case, it fit well enough to 
look like a nice, smooth dash.

--Steve (1980 MGB)


On 5/8/2020 1:37 PM, S.Carr via Mgs wrote:
>
> Hmmm --? definite difference here between your comments and the 
> instructions that came with the Moss panel (?Dash top pad covers,? 
> 453-905).? The pad is meant ?to be glued _over_ the old pad, once all 
> of its cracks and lumps have been smoothed down.
>
> Anyone else have experience with this item?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Sarah
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
> Windows 10
>
> *From: *PaulHunt73 <mailto:paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
> *Sent: *Friday, May 8, 2020 3:51 AM
> *To: *S.Carr <mailto:britfan1 at epix.net>; mgs at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>
> *Subject: *Re: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
>
> Ideally it's done with the screen out as it tucks under the apron 
> seal, but you can probably get round that - once you have the 
> old?cover off.? Also the dash crash rail removed, which probably needs 
> the dash to be removed or again you have the edge facing you to deal 
> with.? I did my 73 as part of a restoration so all that was out of the 
> way anyway.
>
> Remove the screen vents.
>
> Then it?depends on how easily you can get the old one off, and how 
> smooth it leaves the surface.? Use spray adhesive to fix the new one, 
> and cut the slots for the screen vents afterwards.
>
> That's by memory from 32 years ago anyway.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>     We need to install the replacement dash cover on a 1980 MGB.? Any
>     tips from those who have already done it?
>
>


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https://www.avg.com
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From steve at shoyer.com  Fri May  8 15:14:17 2020
From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 17:14:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
In-Reply-To: <D3977A26-1FAD-4FF2-BF88-09C4B69A4E49@gmail.com>
References: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <51be93bd-9118-a63a-898a-93c74f7985f9@bradakis.com>
 <20200508012007.D1054A0F47@autox.team.net>
 <B21AFA586ED74AFDAB9F10CBBD236C79@paul>
 <20200508173924.D2E49A104C@autox.team.net>
 <e8567241-c3a5-a5dc-8b86-1763622b0c70@shoyer.com>
 <D3977A26-1FAD-4FF2-BF88-09C4B69A4E49@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <11022477-1c72-97aa-c73a-702a91ec40f7@shoyer.com>

The replacement dash pad is Moss part 453-796, and as Bob said is a much 
bigger project than installing the cap (453-905) that Sarah?'s got.

--Steve

On 5/8/2020 4:28 PM, Robert's New iPad wrote:
> ? ?There was the ?cap?, that Steve writes about, but at one time some 
> vendor offered a vinyl that would cover the entire dashboard.
> ? ?Caps work well and install pretty much as Moss?s instructions said 
> to do. ?Dry-fit it first, however, before adhesive.
> ? ?The vinyl cover, if still available, is an instruments-out, 
> vents-out, etc project, that requires cutting away or smoothing the 
> old plastic material, then re-covering with new. It was not a 
> one-afternoon job.
> Bob
>
>
> On May 8, 2020, at 2:18 PM, Steve Shoyer via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net 
> <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>
>> There was one installed on my 1980 MGB when I bought the car.? It 
>> looked OK, a lot better than the dash it was covering.? I swapped 
>> dashes a couple of years ago and removed the cover - it looked like 
>> it had been held on with thick beads/smears of flexible adhesive, 
>> like a silicone. Looking at the cover panel there isn't any sign that 
>> it was trimmed.? Since the adhesive on mine was pretty clearly not 
>> applied only at the outside edges, the PO of my car might have bought 
>> a different cover, or just ignored the instructions.? Whatever the 
>> case, it fit well enough to look like a nice, smooth dash.
>>
>> --Steve (1980 MGB)
>>
>>
>> On 5/8/2020 1:37 PM, S.Carr via Mgs wrote:
>>>
>>> Hmmm --? definite difference here between your comments and the 
>>> instructions that came with the Moss panel (?Dash top pad covers,? 
>>> 453-905). The pad is meant ?to be glued _over_ the old pad, once all 
>>> of its cracks and lumps have been smoothed down.
>>>
>>> Anyone else have experience with this item?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Sarah
>>>
>>> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
>>> Windows 10
>>>
>>> *From: *PaulHunt73 <mailto:paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
>>> *Sent: *Friday, May 8, 2020 3:51 AM
>>> *To: *S.Carr <mailto:britfan1 at epix.net>; mgs at autox.team.net 
>>> <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>
>>> *Subject: *Re: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
>>>
>>> Ideally it's done with the screen out as it tucks under the apron 
>>> seal, but you can probably get round that - once you have the 
>>> old?cover off.? Also the dash crash rail removed, which probably 
>>> needs the dash to be removed or again you have the edge facing you 
>>> to deal with.? I did my 73 as part of a restoration so all that was 
>>> out of the way anyway.
>>>
>>> Remove the screen vents.
>>>
>>> Then it?depends on how easily you can get the old one off, and how 
>>> smooth it leaves the surface.? Use spray adhesive to fix the new 
>>> one, and cut the slots for the screen vents afterwards.
>>>
>>> That's by memory from 32 years ago anyway.
>>>
>>> PaulH.
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>
>>>     We need to install the replacement dash cover on a 1980 MGB.?
>>>     Any tips from those who have already done it?
>>>
>>>
>>
>> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 
>> 	Virus-free. www.avg.com 
>> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> 
>>
>>
>> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>> <20200508_140304.jpg>
>> <20200508_140511.jpg>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com


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From rpschauss at gmail.com  Fri May  8 18:31:03 2020
From: rpschauss at gmail.com (Peter Schauss)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2020 20:31:03 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Replacement dash cover - Was: Mostly quiet
Message-ID: <09dc01d62599$1f507980$5df16c80$@gmail.com>

I installed a Dash Repair Cover (probably Moss part 3 453-905) a number of
years ago to cover the cracks on the original dashboard top on my 1980 MGB.
It covers the top of the dashboard from about 1" behind the windshield,
leaving the original defroster vents exposed.  The trailing edge of the
cover wraps around and under the lip of the dashboard which faces the
driver.  The edges flex a bit but, unless you look very closely at it you
cannot see that the dashboard has been patched.

I don't recall what I used to glue it in place.  I notice, however, that
that the description of the current part says that it includes the adhesive
so I must have used either the stuff that they provided or RTV silicone.  

I am guessing that I have had this repair cover on my car for at least 10
years  and it has held up very well.  Before I retired, I was putting 2-3000
miles on the car per year, driving to work in the summer and parking it all
day in the sun.

HTH,
Peter Schauss
1980 MGB
============================================================================
================
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 7 May 2020 21:14:20 -0400
From: S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
To: "mgs at autox.team.net" <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
Message-ID: <mailman.5.1588960802.13522.mgs at autox.team.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Well, here's something to break the (relative) silence:
       We need to install the replacement dash cover on a 1980 MGB.  Any
tips from those who have already done it?

Sarah Carr
?71 B/GT in PA


From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat May  9 02:05:01 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 09:05:01 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
References: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <51be93bd-9118-a63a-898a-93c74f7985f9@bradakis.com>
 <20200508012007.D1054A0F47@autox.team.net>
 <B21AFA586ED74AFDAB9F10CBBD236C79@paul>
 <20200508173938.7EC51A101C@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <15CBCC6B1FF3428E86A3E598E73D4233@paul>

Ah well, the North American padded dash WILL be different.
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  Hmmm --  definite difference here between your comments and the instructions that came with the Moss panel (?Dash top pad covers,? 453-905).  The pad is meant  to be glued over the old pad, once all of its cracks and lumps have been smoothed down.

   
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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sat May  9 03:19:56 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sat, 9 May 2020 11:19:56 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Mostly quiet
In-Reply-To: <15CBCC6B1FF3428E86A3E598E73D4233@paul>
References: <CAOc+-dx9jnHnC2eJj4yo-QVYE4Y5GCzW4HT1D+vgiGzSnyvO-Q@mail.gmail.com>
 <51be93bd-9118-a63a-898a-93c74f7985f9@bradakis.com>
 <20200508012007.D1054A0F47@autox.team.net>
 <B21AFA586ED74AFDAB9F10CBBD236C79@paul>
 <20200508173938.7EC51A101C@autox.team.net>
 <15CBCC6B1FF3428E86A3E598E73D4233@paul>
Message-ID: <003501d625e3$01aeb8c0$050c2a40$@planet.nl>

Like mine ? the Abingdom Pillow

 

Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens PaulHunt73 via Mgs
Verzonden: zaterdag 9 mei 2020 10:05
Aan: S.Carr; mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Mostly quiet

 

Ah well, the North American padded dash WILL be different.

----- Original Message ----- 

 

Hmmm --  definite difference here between your comments and the instructions that came with the Moss panel (?Dash top pad covers,? 453-905).  The pad is meant  to be glued over the old pad, once all of its cracks and lumps have been smoothed down.

 



-- 
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https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue May 12 16:20:43 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2020 17:20:43 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] 1959 MGA
Message-ID: <007301d628ab$944d7070$bce85150$@ranteer.com>

It actually has an early B engine in it

 

I'm thinking of getting an electronic distributor for it.

 

Any recommendations?

 

I'm planning on keeping the existing one for backup

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed May 13 01:36:45 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 08:36:45 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 1959 MGA
References: <007301d628ab$944d7070$bce85150$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <A359CD9EA13242E08DEE53CEF7E72823@paul>

Personally I wouldn't bother.  It's not going to be any better than a correctly maintained points distributor.  I've never had points or condenser fail in over 50 years.  If you get a programmable one then yes you can design your own curve, but how much extra performance or economy do you expect to get out a 70 year old car?  If your existing distributor is mechanically worn then yes an electronic distributor (as opposed to electronic ignition) will correct that, but it's a very expensive way when there are rebuild options around.

Just my 2 penn'orth,
PaulH.

  ----- Original Message ----- 
   
  I'm thinking of getting an electronic distributor for it.

   

  Any recommendations?

   

  I'm planning on keeping the existing one for backup

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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Wed May 13 05:08:36 2020
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 11:08:36 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] 1959 MGA
In-Reply-To: <A359CD9EA13242E08DEE53CEF7E72823@paul>
References: <007301d628ab$944d7070$bce85150$@ranteer.com>
 <A359CD9EA13242E08DEE53CEF7E72823@paul>
Message-ID: <4994C5D8-EA5C-418D-92B8-2DB0F9762B3A@ur.rochester.edu>

Paul is correct, but is you do not want the points, etc. I can suggest use your old dirt. body and install a Pertronix unit. They are very reliable. Set it and forget it. and you can always convert back at any time. I have one in you GT now foe over 25 seasons and not one problem.

paul o


On May 13, 2020, at 3:36 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Personally I wouldn't bother.  It's not going to be any better than a correctly maintained points distributor.  I've never had points or condenser fail in over 50 years.  If you get a programmable one then yes you can design your own curve, but how much extra performance or economy do you expect to get out a 70 year old car?  If your existing distributor is mechanically worn then yes an electronic distributor (as opposed to electronic ignition) will correct that, but it's a very expensive way when there are rebuild options around.

Just my 2 penn'orth,
PaulH.

----- Original Message -----

I?m thinking of getting an electronic distributor for it.

Any recommendations?

I?m planning on keeping the existing one for backup

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=HGIbxUcmeTNcG-DdP-OtC29116m9ylwScCg7DZRoWys&s=KfQOsDmhqUgnduQbhJhwW36HCrxZ1Y9ivkOAS3Slaa4&e=
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=HGIbxUcmeTNcG-DdP-OtC29116m9ylwScCg7DZRoWys&s=p6_26gXKgk2o17TJF9ATeD_Ew-GPeJayTFiiMG6BXGs&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=HGIbxUcmeTNcG-DdP-OtC29116m9ylwScCg7DZRoWys&s=qbq4RC5pVmlbDhbf7vyhZGrXgINghvZO0CrYC8-7Z7A&e=

Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=HGIbxUcmeTNcG-DdP-OtC29116m9ylwScCg7DZRoWys&s=bNDNO-NSE6HczlfG531JVfOgKthwMN2h7bG1oesdCVE&e=

Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
   585-275-5226





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From barrob at bell.net  Wed May 13 08:12:02 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 10:12:02 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1959 MGA
In-Reply-To: <A359CD9EA13242E08DEE53CEF7E72823@paul>
References: <007301d628ab$944d7070$bce85150$@ranteer.com>
 <A359CD9EA13242E08DEE53CEF7E72823@paul>
Message-ID: <0378c251-8b89-3f2d-9762-f68ce60e0aac@bell.net>

Hello,

Paul is right - but Pertronix points do work well - but whole 
distributor probably not needed?

Barrie

On 5/13/2020 3:36 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote:
> Personally I wouldn't bother.? It's not going to be any better than a 
> correctly maintained points distributor.? I've never had points or 
> condenser fail in over 50 years.? If you get a programmable one then 
> yes you can design your own curve, but how much extra performance or 
> economy do you expect to get out a 70 year old car?? If your existing 
> distributor is mechanically worn then yes an electronic distributor 
> (as opposed to electronic ignition)?will correct that, but it's a very 
> expensive way when there are rebuild options around.
> Just my 2 penn'orth,
> PaulH.
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>
>     I?m thinking of getting an electronic distributor for it.
>
>     Any recommendations?
>
>     I?m planning on keeping the existing one for backup
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Wed May 13 12:22:00 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 18:22:00 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] 1959 MGA
In-Reply-To: <0378c251-8b89-3f2d-9762-f68ce60e0aac@bell.net>
References: <007301d628ab$944d7070$bce85150$@ranteer.com>
 <A359CD9EA13242E08DEE53CEF7E72823@paul>
 <0378c251-8b89-3f2d-9762-f68ce60e0aac@bell.net>
Message-ID: <735602363.354604.1589394120218@mail.yahoo.com>

 Pertronix is the way to go.? I have had one in my Bugeye for 20 years.? The nice thing about Pertronix is if the distributor shaft wobbles a little, it still work perfectly.? Timing would be jumpy under those circumstances.? You can always save a set of points and condensor on a distributor plate in the boot just in case the Pertronix happens to die.? If you are still running a generator you might consider a solid state voltage regulator too.? Much better for the life of the generator.? All these things do not change the outward classic appearance of your engine bay, but much better running and reliability.
Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey BN2


    On Wednesday, May 13, 2020, 7:36:17 AM PDT, Barrie Robinson via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
  Hello,
 
 Paul is right - but Pertronix points do work well - but whole distributor probably not needed?
 
 Barrie
 
 On 5/13/2020 3:36 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote:
  
 
 _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv9527021378 P.yiv9527021378MsoNormal {MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:sans-serif;FONT-SIZE:11pt;}#yiv9527021378 LI.yiv9527021378MsoNormal {MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:sans-serif;FONT-SIZE:11pt;}#yiv9527021378 DIV.yiv9527021378MsoNormal {MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:sans-serif;FONT-SIZE:11pt;}#yiv9527021378 SPAN.yiv9527021378EmailStyle17 {FONT-FAMILY:sans-serif;COLOR:windowtext;}#yiv9527021378 .yiv9527021378MsoChpDefault {FONT-FAMILY:sans-serif;}#yiv9527021378 DIV.yiv9527021378WordSection1 {}Personally I wouldn't bother.? It's not going to be any better than a correctly maintained points distributor.? I've never had points or condenser fail in over 50 years.? If you get a programmable one then yes you can design your own curve, but how much extra performance or economy do you expect to get out a 70 year old car?? If your existing distributor is mechanically worn then yes an electronic distributor (as opposed to electronic ignition)?will correct that, but it's a very expensive way when there are rebuild options around. ? Just my 2 penn'orth, PaulH. ? 
 ----- Original Message -----   ?  
I?m thinking of getting an electronic distributor for it.
 
 ?
 
Any recommendations?
 
 ?
 
I?m planning on keeping the existing one for backup
  
 
  _______________________________________________Mgs at autox.team.netDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net 
 _______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rrengineer.mike at att.net
  
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From mark at bradakis.com  Wed May 13 15:56:56 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 15:56:56 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Possible Team Net outage
Message-ID: <808bb626-c37a-53c6-adc4-9031d04dda42@bradakis.com>

We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half 
of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars.? 
Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg to get an idea of what 
happened.? Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire.? That 
is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches 
off that wire is beyond my capabilities.? We've contacted some 
professional tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the 
mess will be cleaned up.

So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that 
debris could shift and take out that network cable.? And Team Net would 
be off the air for who knows how long.? So be aware of that 
possibility.? If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from 
hoosierq at gmail.com that may look suspicious at first glance.? It will be 
from me.

And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring 
again.? Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be 
looking into the situation.

Fun times indeed!

mjb


From simon.d.matthews at gmail.com  Wed May 13 17:03:40 2020
From: simon.d.matthews at gmail.com (Simon Matthews)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 16:03:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 1959 MGA
In-Reply-To: <735602363.354604.1589394120218@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <007301d628ab$944d7070$bce85150$@ranteer.com>
 <A359CD9EA13242E08DEE53CEF7E72823@paul>
 <0378c251-8b89-3f2d-9762-f68ce60e0aac@bell.net>
 <735602363.354604.1589394120218@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAEUYfyOjdmRLs06sypNETVJCm-9RKGA1qLTzk7pkz14mq2pVDQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 12:09 PM Michael MacLean via Mgs
<mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>  If you are still running a generator you might consider a solid state voltage regulator too.  Much better for the life of the generator.

I think you can get a single wire alternator that is in a housing that
looks like the generator housing.

Simon
 All these things do not change the outward classic appearance of your
engine bay, but much better running and reliability.
> Mike MacLean
> 1969 MGB GT
> 1960 Bugeye
> 1956 Austin Healey BN2
>
>
> On Wednesday, May 13, 2020, 7:36:17 AM PDT, Barrie Robinson via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> Paul is right - but Pertronix points do work well - but whole distributor probably not needed?
>
> Barrie
>
> On 5/13/2020 3:36 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote:
>
> Personally I wouldn't bother.  It's not going to be any better than a correctly maintained points distributor.  I've never had points or condenser fail in over 50 years.  If you get a programmable one then yes you can design your own curve, but how much extra performance or economy do you expect to get out a 70 year old car?  If your existing distributor is mechanically worn then yes an electronic distributor (as opposed to electronic ignition) will correct that, but it's a very expensive way when there are rebuild options around.
>
> Just my 2 penn'orth,
> PaulH.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
> I?m thinking of getting an electronic distributor for it.
>
>
>
> Any recommendations?
>
>
>
> I?m planning on keeping the existing one for backup
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rrengineer.mike at att.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/simon.d.matthews at gmail.com

From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Wed May 13 17:27:15 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 16:27:15 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Possible Team Net outage
In-Reply-To: <808bb626-c37a-53c6-adc4-9031d04dda42@bradakis.com>
References: <808bb626-c37a-53c6-adc4-9031d04dda42@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz8_aNTiuNfmbuU8yBCg+BQQiVo9tOkjeVKVig1uo5HByrw@mail.gmail.com>

at least you won't be bored stuck at home :)
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 3:50 PM Mark J Bradakis via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half
> of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars.
> Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg to get an idea of what
> happened.  Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire.  That
> is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches
> off that wire is beyond my capabilities.  We've contacted some
> professional tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the
> mess will be cleaned up.
>
> So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that
> debris could shift and take out that network cable.  And Team Net would
> be off the air for who knows how long.  So be aware of that
> possibility.  If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from
> hoosierq at gmail.com that may look suspicious at first glance.  It will be
> from me.
>
> And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring
> again.  Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be
> looking into the situation.
>
> Fun times indeed!
>
> mjb
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
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From dcouncill at karamursel.org  Wed May 13 22:20:25 2020
From: dcouncill at karamursel.org (D Councill)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2020 21:20:25 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] 1959 MGA
In-Reply-To: <0378c251-8b89-3f2d-9762-f68ce60e0aac@bell.net>
References: <007301d628ab$944d7070$bce85150$@ranteer.com>
 <A359CD9EA13242E08DEE53CEF7E72823@paul>
 <0378c251-8b89-3f2d-9762-f68ce60e0aac@bell.net>
Message-ID: <000201d629a6$fe465360$fad2fa20$@karamursel.org>

I tried the Pertronix on my 72B - it failed about a mile from my home on the
way to work one day. The pertronix lasted maybe two years and less than 10k
miles but was great while it worked. I have since reverted back to points.

 

David Councill

64 B

72 B

67 BGT

 

From: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Barrie Robinson via Mgs
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 7:12 AM
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1959 MGA

 

Hello,

Paul is right - but Pertronix points do work well - but whole distributor
probably not needed?

Barrie

On 5/13/2020 3:36 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs wrote:

Personally I wouldn't bother.  It's not going to be any better than a
correctly maintained points distributor.  I've never had points or condenser
fail in over 50 years.  If you get a programmable one then yes you can
design your own curve, but how much extra performance or economy do you
expect to get out a 70 year old car?  If your existing distributor is
mechanically worn then yes an electronic distributor (as opposed to
electronic ignition) will correct that, but it's a very expensive way when
there are rebuild options around.

 

Just my 2 penn'orth,

PaulH

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From dan.dibiase at gmail.com  Thu May 14 05:43:01 2020
From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 07:43:01 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Possible Team Net outage
In-Reply-To: <808bb626-c37a-53c6-adc4-9031d04dda42@bradakis.com>
References: <808bb626-c37a-53c6-adc4-9031d04dda42@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <CABxEc+=ENZ0WJqg8JTTU17m9ZXA+Y1-=dwX0o7h=hXmhG6x0iA@mail.gmail.com>

Looks like it mostly missed the cars, though....

Dan D
Central NJ USA
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/


On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Mark J Bradakis via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half
> of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars.
> Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg to get an idea of what
> happened.  Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire.  That
> is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches
> off that wire is beyond my capabilities.  We've contacted some
> professional tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the
> mess will be cleaned up.
>
> So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that
> debris could shift and take out that network cable.  And Team Net would
> be off the air for who knows how long.  So be aware of that
> possibility.  If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from
> hoosierq at gmail.com that may look suspicious at first glance.  It will be
> from me.
>
> And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring
> again.  Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be
> looking into the situation.
>
> Fun times indeed!
>
> mjb
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Thu May 14 10:44:37 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 09:44:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Possible Team Net outage
In-Reply-To: <CABxEc+=ENZ0WJqg8JTTU17m9ZXA+Y1-=dwX0o7h=hXmhG6x0iA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <808bb626-c37a-53c6-adc4-9031d04dda42@bradakis.com>
 <CABxEc+=ENZ0WJqg8JTTU17m9ZXA+Y1-=dwX0o7h=hXmhG6x0iA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <82241284-6F1D-4F27-813A-5DBD0430A515@sonic.net>

The Spitfire seems to be all right. I am a little worried about the blue one ? can?t make out what it is.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB



> On May 14, 2020, at 4:43 AM, Dan DiBiase via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Looks like it mostly missed the cars, though....
> 
> Dan D
> Central NJ USA
> http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ <http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/>
> 
> On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Mark J Bradakis via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half 
> of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars.  
> Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg <http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg> to get an idea of what 
> happened.  Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire.  That 
> is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches 
> off that wire is beyond my capabilities.  We've contacted some 
> professional tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the 
> mess will be cleaned up.
> 
> So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that 
> debris could shift and take out that network cable.  And Team Net would 
> be off the air for who knows how long.  So be aware of that 
> possibility.  If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from 
> hoosierq at gmail.com <mailto:hoosierq at gmail.com> that may look suspicious at first glance.  It will be 
> from me.
> 
> And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring 
> again.  Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be 
> looking into the situation.
> 
> Fun times indeed!
> 
> mjb
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net>
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From mark at bradakis.com  Thu May 14 10:52:42 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 10:52:42 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] Possible Team Net outage
In-Reply-To: <82241284-6F1D-4F27-813A-5DBD0430A515@sonic.net>
References: <808bb626-c37a-53c6-adc4-9031d04dda42@bradakis.com>
 <CABxEc+=ENZ0WJqg8JTTU17m9ZXA+Y1-=dwX0o7h=hXmhG6x0iA@mail.gmail.com>
 <82241284-6F1D-4F27-813A-5DBD0430A515@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <505279f3-70c4-bbe2-f798-79d7aa581a0d@bradakis.com>

On 5/14/20 10:44 AM, Max Heim wrote:
> The Spitfire seems to be all right. I am a little worried about the 
> blue one ? can?t make out what it is.


It's an early TR7 coupe.? RealSoonNow I'm going to get a nice TR7 
convertible, and all the go fast goodies on that blue pile will be 
transferred over.? After I get my street Spitfire back together and out 
of the garage and get the race car redone and ...

mjb.



From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Thu May 14 12:13:59 2020
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 13:13:59 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Possible Team Net outage
In-Reply-To: <82241284-6F1D-4F27-813A-5DBD0430A515@sonic.net>
References: <808bb626-c37a-53c6-adc4-9031d04dda42@bradakis.com>
 <CABxEc+=ENZ0WJqg8JTTU17m9ZXA+Y1-=dwX0o7h=hXmhG6x0iA@mail.gmail.com>
 <82241284-6F1D-4F27-813A-5DBD0430A515@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dy4BYZi-DCps-Wocntjf4ivC5ETq1i-_8gtZF8QKQVJwg@mail.gmail.com>

Glad you're okay Mark, and your cars are not damaged beyond repair. Thanks
again for your great work. Perhaps a few more donations might help get that
displaced black wire back up...

Rick

> On Wed, May 13, 2020 at 6:50 PM Mark J Bradakis via Mgs <
> mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> We had some severe wind gusts in Salt Lake Monday afternoon, about half
>> of a large tree blew over, sort of hitting the garage and some cars.
>> Take a look at http://bradakis.com/net_wire.jpg to get an idea of what
>> happened.  Inside that marked off area you can see a black wire.  That
>> is Team Net's connection to the world. Getting all the fallen branches
>> off that wire is beyond my capabilities.  We've contacted some
>> professional tree removers, haven't heard back yet, so not sure when the
>> mess will be cleaned up.
>>
>> So basically if we get more wind gusts over the next day or two all that
>> debris could shift and take out that network cable.  And Team Net would
>> be off the air for who knows how long.  So be aware of that
>> possibility.  If it happens, you might be seeing a status message from
>> hoosierq at gmail.com that may look suspicious at first glance.  It will be
>> from me.
>>
>> And another note, the old problem of delayed email seems to be occurring
>> again.  Currently the delay is one the order of an hour or so, I'll be
>> looking into the situation.
>>
>> Fun times indeed!
>>
>> mjb
>>
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Thu May 14 17:37:11 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2020 23:37:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors Videos
References: <130275447.524178.1589499431958.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <130275447.524178.1589499431958@mail.yahoo.com>

Virtually all of the Moss Motors tech videos have disappeared from YouTube.
Mike MacLean69 MGB GT60 Bugeye56 Austin Healey BN2
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From dan.dibiase at gmail.com  Fri May 15 12:32:20 2020
From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 14:32:20 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors Videos
In-Reply-To: <130275447.524178.1589499431958@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <130275447.524178.1589499431958.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <130275447.524178.1589499431958@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CABxEc+mX6xAu6x_JccSmFYU9-+hM2f8xJac1PZdBGiSKopiCrA@mail.gmail.com>

Really?

https://www.youtube.com/user/MossMotorsCom/videos

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/


On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 7:48 PM Michael MacLean via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Virtually all of the Moss Motors tech videos have disappeared from YouTube.
>
> Mike MacLean
> 69 MGB GT
> 60 Bugeye
> 56 Austin Healey BN2
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Fri May 15 13:25:49 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 19:25:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors Videos
In-Reply-To: <CABxEc+mX6xAu6x_JccSmFYU9-+hM2f8xJac1PZdBGiSKopiCrA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <130275447.524178.1589499431958.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <130275447.524178.1589499431958@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABxEc+mX6xAu6x_JccSmFYU9-+hM2f8xJac1PZdBGiSKopiCrA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <1970493924.10411.1589570749506@mail.yahoo.com>

 Yes, I see them now.? I swear yesterday afternoon they were all not visible on you tube.? The Moss Motors banner came up, but no videos were listed under it.? That same banner had all the videos back that evening.? I can't explain it.? A YouTube glitch?Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1060 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey BN2 LeMans

    On Friday, May 15, 2020, 11:32:58 AM PDT, Dan DiBiase <dan.dibiase at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Really?
https://www.youtube.com/user/MossMotorsCom/videos?
Dan D'76B, '65BCentral NJ USA?
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/

On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 7:48 PM Michael MacLean via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:

Virtually all of the Moss Motors tech videos have disappeared from YouTube.
Mike MacLean69 MGB GT60 Bugeye56 Austin Healey BN2
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com

  
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri May 15 14:06:37 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 13:06:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Moss Motors Videos
In-Reply-To: <1970493924.10411.1589570749506@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <130275447.524178.1589499431958.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <130275447.524178.1589499431958@mail.yahoo.com>
 <CABxEc+mX6xAu6x_JccSmFYU9-+hM2f8xJac1PZdBGiSKopiCrA@mail.gmail.com>
 <1970493924.10411.1589570749506@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BBE0507E-6835-4411-93E3-3D8F8787FDC8@sonic.net>

Internet traffic has been unusually heavy during the pandemic.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On May 15, 2020, at 12:25 PM, Michael MacLean via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Yes, I see them now.  I swear yesterday afternoon they were all not visible on you tube.  The Moss Motors banner came up, but no videos were listed under it.  That same banner had all the videos back that evening.  I can't explain it.  A YouTube glitch?
> Mike MacLean
> 1969 MGB GT
> 1060 Bugeye
> 1956 Austin Healey BN2 LeMans
> 
> On Friday, May 15, 2020, 11:32:58 AM PDT, Dan DiBiase <dan.dibiase at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> Really?
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/user/MossMotorsCom/videos <https://www.youtube.com/user/MossMotorsCom/videos> 
> 
> Dan D
> '76B, '65B
> Central NJ USA 
> http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ <http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/>
> 
> On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 7:48 PM Michael MacLean via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
> Virtually all of the Moss Motors tech videos have disappeared from YouTube.
> 
> Mike MacLean
> 69 MGB GT
> 60 Bugeye
> 56 Austin Healey BN2
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com>
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

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From thgun at comporium.net  Fri May 15 14:52:17 2020
From: thgun at comporium.net (Thomas Gunderson)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 16:52:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Heater control
Message-ID: <E3EC8483-7A57-4265-9CD2-7CB0D05AF16E@comporium.net>

I see the control panels for sale as nos. The letters seem to be printed on the plasti?. Were the orlginal dash panels embosted? Recessed letters filled with paint?

1957 MGA rst 1500

Sent from my iPhone X




From ronfineesq at earthlink.net  Fri May 15 16:50:49 2020
From: ronfineesq at earthlink.net (Ron Fine)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 15:50:49 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB Bonnet
Message-ID: <9ED5F01C7F844B61B72D60920E795E4B@Inspiron660>

I have an original alloy bonnet I removed from a ?66 MGB.  It has some dents which is why I replaced it with an after market steel bonnet, but I think anyone who is able to work with the alloy should be able to straighten it.

It is free to anyone who wants to pick it up in West Los Angeles, CA.

Ron Fine
66 MGB (sold)
61 Austin Healey

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From mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com  Fri May 15 17:28:17 2020
From: mgs4dave at tampabay.rr.com (mgs4dave)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 19:28:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Sad Passing of a Long Time MG friend
Message-ID: <5FE806B1-A929-4C7A-A9A6-6879D35E8BF8@tampabay.rr.com>

Listers,
Got the news today from Hank Ripperts daughter, Heather.


With a very heavy heart, I must share that Dad passed away earlier this afternoon. He is at peace now. 

Bette and I will be talking about a Celebration of Dad?s life to occur at a later date where we can all gather together and share our favorite stories of the extraordinary man he was. 

Thank you for loving him. He loved each and every one of you.

All My Love,
Heather


I have known Hank for over 50 years when we first met at one of the earliest
New England MG Register meets. He would always show up at the various MG club meets, usually with his Racing fender MGTD. He was always a great supporter of the Marque. I will miss his wry humor. Rest in Peace, Hank, be with God and all the old MG family that has left us.

Dave Houser

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat May 16 08:28:32 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 09:28:32 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] just in case
Message-ID: <007201d62b8e$476107a0$d62316e0$@ranteer.com>

59 mga, body off and painted, almost finished renovating the chassis.  Plan
to marry the drivetrain to the chassis before putting the tub on.

 

I don't see how, but I thought I'd ask, if there is anyway to test the
clutch without putting the body on and attaching the master/slave
hudraulics.

 

Car would not shift, removed engine and tran, replaced clutch and throwout
bearing (dpo had one of those fancy ball bearing throwout bearings which was
trashed)

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From dan.dibiase at gmail.com  Sat May 16 10:56:18 2020
From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 12:56:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] just in case
In-Reply-To: <007201d62b8e$476107a0$d62316e0$@ranteer.com>
References: <007201d62b8e$476107a0$d62316e0$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CABxEc+=6f7TAA20V1nAHq7G0SFNFNieTT7YrvtnnUvj8AWpA3A@mail.gmail.com>

So Dave, is this a case of the 'might as well's'? As in, 'Well, since the
engine and trans are out, I might as well remove the body from the chassis
and paint it, and might as well redo the chassis and all mechanical
components while I'm at it'... ;-)

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/


On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 10:32 AM dave via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:

> 59 mga, body off and painted, almost finished renovating the chassis.
> Plan to marry the drivetrain to the chassis before putting the tub on.
>
>
>
> I don?t see how, but I thought I?d ask, if there is anyway to test the
> clutch without putting the body on and attaching the master/slave
> hudraulics.
>
>
>
> Car would not shift, removed engine and tran, replaced clutch and throwout
> bearing (dpo had one of those fancy ball bearing throwout bearings which
> was trashed)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>
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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Sat May 16 11:34:17 2020
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 13:34:17 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] just in case
In-Reply-To: <CABxEc+=6f7TAA20V1nAHq7G0SFNFNieTT7YrvtnnUvj8AWpA3A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007201d62b8e$476107a0$d62316e0$@ranteer.com>
 <CABxEc+=6f7TAA20V1nAHq7G0SFNFNieTT7YrvtnnUvj8AWpA3A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <FB80EC6F-E2F6-41DA-BD92-89BEAFF49B19@gmail.com>

   Seems a good idea to test the clutch, though I have never done it.
   Thoughts-garage door open, aim the car toward the open door, put the gearbox into gear, and without ignition, and coil wire disconnected, pull the starter.  If the car chirps tires and moves, you know clutch is engaging to some degree.
   Then rig a rope&pulley or long lever (in place of hydraulics) to move the clutch lever toward disengagement. Pull the starter again. If the car does not move, you have disengaged the clutch.
  There must be better ways....
Bob


> On May 16, 2020, at 12:56 PM, Dan DiBiase via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> So Dave, is this a case of the 'might as well's'? As in, 'Well, since the engine and trans are out, I might as well remove the body from the chassis and paint it, and might as well redo the chassis and all mechanical components while I'm at it'... ;-)
> 
> Dan D
> '76B, '65B
> Central NJ USA
> http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/
> 
> 
>> On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 10:32 AM dave via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 59 mga, body off and painted, almost finished renovating the chassis.  Plan to marry the drivetrain to the chassis before putting the tub on.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I don?t see how, but I thought I?d ask, if there is anyway to test the clutch without putting the body on and attaching the master/slave hudraulics.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Car would not shift, removed engine and tran, replaced clutch and throwout bearing (dpo had one of those fancy ball bearing throwout bearings which was trashed)
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
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From mark at bradakis.com  Sat May 16 11:39:18 2020
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 11:39:18 -0600
Subject: [Mgs] just in case
In-Reply-To: <CABxEc+=6f7TAA20V1nAHq7G0SFNFNieTT7YrvtnnUvj8AWpA3A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <007201d62b8e$476107a0$d62316e0$@ranteer.com>
 <CABxEc+=6f7TAA20V1nAHq7G0SFNFNieTT7YrvtnnUvj8AWpA3A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <32bbbe1c-c4b6-7cff-6cde-9c91474bbeb2@bradakis.com>

On 5/16/20 10:56 AM, Dan DiBiase via Mgs wrote:
> So Dave, is this a case of the?'might as well's'? As in, 'Well, since 
> the engine and trans are out, I might as well remove the body from the 
> chassis and paint it, and might as well redo the chassis and all 
> mechanical components?while I'm at it'... ;-)
>
AKA shipwright's disease.

On a side note, the wire connecting Team Net to the world is no longer 
imminent danger of getting snapped by falling tree branches.? It is 
pretty well stretched out, though, have a call in to Comcast to have a 
tech come out and check the connections at the end.? Someday soon, I hope.

mjb.



From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat May 16 13:54:15 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 15:54:15 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Heater control
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1589652002.5504.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1589652002.5504.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <d7e8200c-dc08-5c34-c3e4-9cff81618602@mebtel.net>

 > I see the control panels for sale as nos. The letters seem to be 
printed on the plasti?. Were the orlginal dash panels embosted?
 > Recessed letters filled with paint?

MGA heater control has the letters printed on. The knobs are embossed - 
recessed letters filled with paint.

Pictures here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/heater/hr104.htm

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC





From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sat May 16 14:01:46 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 16:01:46 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] just in case
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1589652002.5504.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1589652002.5504.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <b4a97d28-8c06-17fb-a1d9-0eae9f145ea0@mebtel.net>

If you're asking can you test that the clutch releases/engages without 
connecting the hydraulic operating parts - yes. It will require extreme 
strength or leverage. A long lever will allow a mortal human to move the 
clutch operating fork. It only needs to move ~ 1/2" at the end opposite 
the throw out bearing. I've done it with a 2' long pry bar.

With the transmission in gear, try to turn the transmission output 
flange. It should not turn if the clutch is engaged to the 
flywheel/engine. Now move the operating fork and see if you can turn the 
transmission output flange. If yes, the clutch is releasing.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
> Date: Sat, 16 May 2020 09:28:32 -0500
> From: "dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] just in case
> Message-ID: <007201d62b8e$476107a0$d62316e0$@ranteer.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> 59 mga, body off and painted, almost finished renovating the chassis.  Plan
> to marry the drivetrain to the chassis before putting the tub on.
>
>
> I don't see how, but I thought I'd ask, if there is anyway to test the
> clutch without putting the body on and attaching the master/slave
> hudraulics.
>
>   
> Car would not shift, removed engine and tran, replaced clutch and throwout
> bearing (dpo had one of those fancy ball bearing throwout bearings which was
> trashed)


From steve at shoyer.com  Sun May 17 23:04:42 2020
From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 01:04:42 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] MGB not (re)starting, following up
Message-ID: <aeeb9176-86b0-e820-f743-91d5f0539fff@shoyer.com>

Hi, about two months ago I asked for help to figure out why my 1980 MGB 
wasn't restarting after being driven for a while.? Most people suggested 
that it was a problem with the battery or with the battery connections.? 
I generally kept it on a battery tender, and one person suggested 
disconnecting that because it tends to cover up battery problems. I 
disconnected the tender and let the car sit for a while.

My son, bored from sheltering at home, started a woodworking project in 
the garage.? He didn't realize that using a sander would generate 
sawdust, and didn't notice until I pointed it out to him that the cars 
were now covered with sawdust.

Today was a nice day, so I was planning on washing the cars.? I tried to 
start the MGB - the battery seemed fine, the starter seemed to be 
spinning the engine properly, but the car wouldn't start.

I had added a negative battery to ground cable and a coil to a parts 
order (I needed to replace my gas cap) that's been sitting in the box 
since it arrived in March.? Since the battery appeared to be working OK, 
I tried swapping the coil first.? The old coil (from 2002) was a Lucas 
Sports coil, but I just got the standard coil listed for my car.? I 
installed the new coil, and the car started right away.? It ran pretty 
well, which surprised me a little since it hadn't been driven in a 
while, but I wasn't going to complain.

I'll still replace the negative battery cable - the one on the car looks 
a little frayed - but I'm glad that replacing the coil resolved the problem.

Thanks again to everyone who offered suggestions when I was looking for 
advice.

--Steve (1980 MGB)


From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon May 18 00:54:57 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 06:54:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB not (re)starting, following up
In-Reply-To: <aeeb9176-86b0-e820-f743-91d5f0539fff@shoyer.com>
References: <aeeb9176-86b0-e820-f743-91d5f0539fff@shoyer.com>
Message-ID: <1511429778.692865.1589784897648@mail.yahoo.com>

Lucas electrics are made in India these days.? Nothing to do with Lucas Electrics except the name.? Just one cut above Chinese made crap.Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT60 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 10:04 PM, Steve Shoyer via Mgs<mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:   Hi, about two months ago I asked for help to figure out why my 1980 MGB 
wasn't restarting after being driven for a while.? Most people suggested 
that it was a problem with the battery or with the battery connections.? 
I generally kept it on a battery tender, and one person suggested 
disconnecting that because it tends to cover up battery problems. I 
disconnected the tender and let the car sit for a while.

My son, bored from sheltering at home, started a woodworking project in 
the garage.? He didn't realize that using a sander would generate 
sawdust, and didn't notice until I pointed it out to him that the cars 
were now covered with sawdust.

Today was a nice day, so I was planning on washing the cars.? I tried to 
start the MGB - the battery seemed fine, the starter seemed to be 
spinning the engine properly, but the car wouldn't start.

I had added a negative battery to ground cable and a coil to a parts 
order (I needed to replace my gas cap) that's been sitting in the box 
since it arrived in March.? Since the battery appeared to be working OK, 
I tried swapping the coil first.? The old coil (from 2002) was a Lucas 
Sports coil, but I just got the standard coil listed for my car.? I 
installed the new coil, and the car started right away.? It ran pretty 
well, which surprised me a little since it hadn't been driven in a 
while, but I wasn't going to complain.

I'll still replace the negative battery cable - the one on the car looks 
a little frayed - but I'm glad that replacing the coil resolved the problem.

Thanks again to everyone who offered suggestions when I was looking for 
advice.

--Steve (1980 MGB)

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon May 18 17:09:28 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 23:09:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
References: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>

Has anyone installed the small grill in front of the windshield recently?? I was surprised to find mine was just dropped into position with nothing to retain the pins.? I bought the little plastic being sleeves that you slip over the pins to retain the grill that Moss sells, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to put them on.? Kind of tough from above.? I am beginning to understand why I found the grill that way.
Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT60 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon May 18 17:19:37 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 16:19:37 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
In-Reply-To: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5129571A-B9F0-4172-B94F-DF87D2A03EF4@sonic.net>

You shove the plastic retainers into the holes from above. Then stab the grill surround into them. They are not ?nuts?, they are friction retainers.


--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On May 18, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Michael MacLean via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Has anyone installed the small grill in front of the windshield recently?  I was surprised to find mine was just dropped into position with nothing to retain the pins.  I bought the little plastic being sleeves that you slip over the pins to retain the grill that Moss sells, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to put them on.  Kind of tough from above.  I am beginning to understand why I found the grill that way.
> 
> Mike MacLean
> 1969 MGB GT
> 60 Bugeye
> 1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans
> 
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>_______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon May 18 18:12:34 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 00:12:34 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
In-Reply-To: <5129571A-B9F0-4172-B94F-DF87D2A03EF4@sonic.net>
References: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5129571A-B9F0-4172-B94F-DF87D2A03EF4@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <1621594007.1194699.1589847154324@mail.yahoo.com>

 Now that makes sense.? Thank you Max.? I was racking my brain trying to figure out how to force them on the pins from below. DUH!Mike

    On Monday, May 18, 2020, 4:19:45 PM PDT, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:  
 
 You shove the plastic retainers into the holes from above. Then stab the grill surround into them. They are not ?nuts?, they are friction retainers.

--Max Heim'66 MGB

On May 18, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Michael MacLean via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
Has anyone installed the small grill in front of the windshield recently?? I was surprised to find mine was just dropped into position with nothing to retain the pins.? I bought the little plastic being sleeves that you slip over the pins to retain the grill that Moss sells, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to put them on.? Kind of tough from above.? I am beginning to understand why I found the grill that way.
Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT60 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation ?$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net


  
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Mon May 18 23:32:58 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 22:32:58 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
In-Reply-To: <1725197202.1293679.1589861548639@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1725197202.1293679.1589861548639@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <ED873A4F-6920-47FC-A55C-01C87121D752@sonic.net>

Hmm, well, now that you mention it, I think I scrounged up my own plastic retainers, since I didn?t buy a new grill ? I was just refitting an old one after painting. And I may have had to open up the holes a little, since they had paint build-up.

Sent from my iPad

> On May 18, 2020, at 9:12 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
> 
> ?OK, I went out to the car to try it your way Max.  Those friction retainers are to large of a diameter to push down into the holes in the hood.  The holes in the hood are just big enough to fit the oins on the grill.  I am not in favor of drilling those holes out.  It must have worked somehow differently from the factory.  Maybe it's  a replacement grill and the pins are oversize.  Nonetheless, the blind friction retainers are too big to fit in the holes.  Back to square one.
> Mike MacLean
> 1969 MGB GT
> 1960 Bugeye
> 1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans
> 
> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 5:14 PM, Michael MacLean via Mgs
> <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> Now that makes sense.  Thank you Max.  I was racking my brain trying to figure out how to force them on the pins from below. DUH!
> Mike
> 
>> On Monday, May 18, 2020, 4:19:45 PM PDT, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> You shove the plastic retainers into the holes from above. Then stab the grill surround into them. They are not ?nuts?, they are friction retainers.
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB
>> 
>> On May 18, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Michael MacLean via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Has anyone installed the small grill in front of the windshield recently?  I was surprised to find mine was just dropped into position with nothing to retain the pins.  I bought the little plastic being sleeves that you slip over the pins to retain the grill that Moss sells, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to put them on.  Kind of tough from above.  I am beginning to understand why I found the grill that way.
>> 
>> Mike MacLean
>> 1969 MGB GT
>> 60 Bugeye
>> 1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans
>> 
>> Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rrengineer.mike at att.net
> <Untitled>
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon May 18 23:54:32 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 05:54:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
In-Reply-To: <ED873A4F-6920-47FC-A55C-01C87121D752@sonic.net>
References: <1725197202.1293679.1589861548639@mail.yahoo.com>
 <ED873A4F-6920-47FC-A55C-01C87121D752@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <2136551376.1318083.1589867672797@mail.yahoo.com>

 I would have to drill out the metal to get these retainers to drop in the holes and still have room for the pin, even with a friction fit.Mike

    On Monday, May 18, 2020, 10:33:03 PM PDT, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:  
 
 Hmm, well, now that you mention it, I think I scrounged up my own plastic retainers, since I didn?t buy a new grill ? I was just refitting an old one after painting. And I may have had to open up the holes a little, since they had paint build-up.

Sent from my iPad

On May 18, 2020, at 9:12 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:



?OK, I went out to the car to try it your way Max.? Those friction retainers are to large of a diameter to push down into the holes in the hood.? The holes in the hood are just big enough to fit the oins on the grill.? I am not in favor of drilling those holes out.? It must have worked somehow differently from the factory.? Maybe it's? a replacement grill and the pins are oversize.? Nonetheless, the blind friction retainers are too big to fit in the holes.? Back to square one.Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 5:14 PM, Michael MacLean via Mgs<mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:    Now that makes sense.? Thank you Max.? I was racking my brain trying to figure out how to force them on the pins from below. DUH!Mike

    On Monday, May 18, 2020, 4:19:45 PM PDT, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:  
 
 You shove the plastic retainers into the holes from above. Then stab the grill surround into them. They are not ?nuts?, they are friction retainers.

--Max Heim'66 MGB

On May 18, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Michael MacLean via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
Has anyone installed the small grill in front of the windshield recently?? I was surprised to find mine was just dropped into position with nothing to retain the pins.? I bought the little plastic being sleeves that you slip over the pins to retain the grill that Moss sells, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to put them on.? Kind of tough from above.? I am beginning to understand why I found the grill that way.
Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT60 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation ?$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net


  _______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/rrengineer.mike at att.net
  
<Untitled>
  
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From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Tue May 19 01:16:43 2020
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 03:16:43 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
In-Reply-To: <2136551376.1318083.1589867672797@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <1725197202.1293679.1589861548639@mail.yahoo.com>
 <ED873A4F-6920-47FC-A55C-01C87121D752@sonic.net>
 <2136551376.1318083.1589867672797@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.137.1589872617.2961.mgs@autox.team.net>

I seem to recall those clips were originally very 
thin Tinnerman clips.  So if current supply is 
indeed thicker plastic, then yes you would need 
to drill out the holes for fitting.


At 01:54 AM 5/19/2020, Michael MacLean via Mgs wrote:
>I would have to drill out the metal to get these 
>retainers to drop in the holes and still have 
>room for the pin, even with a friction fit.
>Mike


>On Monday, May 18, 2020, 10:33:03 PM PDT, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:
>
>Hmm, well, now that you mention it, I think I 
>scrounged up my own plastic retainers, since I 
>didn???t buy a new grill ? I was just refitting 
>an old one after painting. And I may have had to 
>open up the holes a little, since they had paint build-up.


>>On May 18, 2020, at 9:12 PM, Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net> wrote:
>>
>>???OK, I went out to the car to try it your way 
>>Max.  Those friction retainers are to large of 
>>a diameter to push down into the holes in the 
>>hood.  The holes in the hood are just big 
>>enough to fit the oins on the grill.  I am not 
>>in favor of drilling those holes out.  It must 
>>have worked somehow differently from the 
>>factory.  Maybe it's  a replacement grill and 
>>the pins are oversize.  Nonetheless, the blind 
>>friction retainers are too big to fit in the holes.  Back to square one.
>>Mike MacLean
>>1969 MGB GT
>>1960 Bugeye
>>1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans



>>On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 5:14 PM, Michael MacLean via Mgs
>><mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>Now that makes sense.  Thank you Max.  I was 
>>racking my brain trying to figure out how to 
>>force them on the pins from below. DUH!
>>Mike


>>On Monday, May 18, 2020, 4:19:45 PM PDT, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:
>>
>>You shove the plastic retainers into the holes 
>>from above. Then stab the grill surround into 
>>them. They are not ???nuts???, they are friction retainers.
>>--
>>Max Heim
>>'66 MGB


>>>On May 18, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Michael MacLean 
>>>via Mgs <<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>Has anyone installed the small grill in front 
>>>of the windshield recently?  I was surprised 
>>>to find mine was just dropped into position 
>>>with nothing to retain the pins.  I bought the 
>>>little plastic being sleeves that you slip 
>>>over the pins to retain the grill that Moss 
>>>sells, but for the life of me I can't figure 
>>>out how to put them on.  Kind of tough from 
>>>above.  I am beginning to understand why I found the grill that way.
>>>
>>>Mike MacLean
>>>1969 MGB GT
>>>60 Bugeye
>>>1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue May 19 01:30:37 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 08:30:37 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
References: <1725197202.1293679.1589861548639@mail.yahoo.com>
 <ED873A4F-6920-47FC-A55C-01C87121D752@sonic.net>
 <2136551376.1318083.1589867672797@mail.yahoo.com>
 <20200519071808.C6782A10F9@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7E1BBB0316DB4D03828D4E1FFDCD8423@paul>

Also MGBs originally had those clips fitted and removed from underneath.  The plastic sockets are of course much easier but the holes almost certainly need to be drilled out to take the thickness of the plastic as well as the pins, my body man was horrified when I did that to mine.

To no avail though as the new grille (!) did not fit  correctly as the curvature was wrong, and I had to reuse four of the original clips ... which I had saved of course.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 

  I seem to recall those clips were originally very thin Tinnerman clips.  So if current supply is indeed thicker plastic, then yes you would need to drill out the holes for fitting.
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon May 18 22:12:28 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 04:12:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
In-Reply-To: <1621594007.1194699.1589847154324@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5129571A-B9F0-4172-B94F-DF87D2A03EF4@sonic.net>
 <1621594007.1194699.1589847154324@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1725197202.1293679.1589861548639@mail.yahoo.com>

OK, I went out to the car to try it your way Max.? Those friction retainers are to large of a diameter to push down into the holes in the hood.? The holes in the hood are just big enough to fit the oins on the grill.? I am not in favor of drilling those holes out.? It must have worked somehow differently from the factory.? Maybe it's? a replacement grill and the pins are oversize.? Nonetheless, the blind friction retainers are too big to fit in the holes.? Back to square one.Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 5:14 PM, Michael MacLean via Mgs<mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:    Now that makes sense.? Thank you Max.? I was racking my brain trying to figure out how to force them on the pins from below. DUH!Mike

    On Monday, May 18, 2020, 4:19:45 PM PDT, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:  
 
 You shove the plastic retainers into the holes from above. Then stab the grill surround into them. They are not ?nuts?, they are friction retainers.

--Max Heim'66 MGB

On May 18, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Michael MacLean via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
Has anyone installed the small grill in front of the windshield recently?? I was surprised to find mine was just dropped into position with nothing to retain the pins.? I bought the little plastic being sleeves that you slip over the pins to retain the grill that Moss sells, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to put them on.? Kind of tough from above.? I am beginning to understand why I found the grill that way.
Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT60 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation ?$12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net


  _______________________________________________

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Suggested annual donation? $12.75

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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Mon May 18 22:12:28 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 04:12:28 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
In-Reply-To: <1621594007.1194699.1589847154324@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5129571A-B9F0-4172-B94F-DF87D2A03EF4@sonic.net>
 <1621594007.1194699.1589847154324@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1725197202.1293679.1589861548639@mail.yahoo.com>

OK, I went out to the car to try it your way Max.? Those friction retainers are to large of a diameter to push down into the holes in the hood.? The holes in the hood are just big enough to fit the oins on the grill.? I am not in favor of drilling those holes out.? It must have worked somehow differently from the factory.? Maybe it's? a replacement grill and the pins are oversize.? Nonetheless, the blind friction retainers are too big to fit in the holes.? Back to square one.Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT1960 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 5:14 PM, Michael MacLean via Mgs<mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:    Now that makes sense.? Thank you Max.? I was racking my brain trying to figure out how to force them on the pins from below. DUH!Mike

    On Monday, May 18, 2020, 4:19:45 PM PDT, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:  
 
 You shove the plastic retainers into the holes from above. Then stab the grill surround into them. They are not ?nuts?, they are friction retainers.

--Max Heim'66 MGB

On May 18, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Michael MacLean via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
Has anyone installed the small grill in front of the windshield recently?? I was surprised to find mine was just dropped into position with nothing to retain the pins.? I bought the little plastic being sleeves that you slip over the pins to retain the grill that Moss sells, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to put them on.? Kind of tough from above.? I am beginning to understand why I found the grill that way.
Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT60 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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  _______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue May 19 08:47:52 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 15:47:52 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
References: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5129571A-B9F0-4172-B94F-DF87D2A03EF4@sonic.net>
 <1621594007.1194699.1589847154324@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1725197202.1293679.1589861548639@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2EFC063C887B481FA92CE1CBCF905B74@paul>

Funnily enough the Parts catalogue states blind retainers throughout, even though I had clips fitted from underneath on both my 73 and 75.  The 73 did already have the blind fixings for the 'MGB' on the boot lid.  Fitting them to a new body is obviously going to be different to 50 years down the line and who know how many repaints, which is why I drilled mine out beforehand.  The pins on my replacement grilles are the same size as the ones that came off.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  OK, I went out to the car to try it your way Max.  Those friction retainers are to large of a diameter to push down into the holes in the hood.  The holes in the hood are just big enough to fit the oins on the grill.  I am not in favor of drilling those holes out.  It must have worked somehow differently from the factory.  Maybe it's  a replacement grill and the pins are oversize.
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From rrengineer.mike at att.net  Tue May 19 10:12:57 2020
From: rrengineer.mike at att.net (Michael MacLean)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 16:12:57 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
In-Reply-To: <2EFC063C887B481FA92CE1CBCF905B74@paul>
References: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5129571A-B9F0-4172-B94F-DF87D2A03EF4@sonic.net>
 <1621594007.1194699.1589847154324@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1725197202.1293679.1589861548639@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2EFC063C887B481FA92CE1CBCF905B74@paul>
Message-ID: <372767043.1542508.1589904777648@mail.yahoo.com>

I took my pocket knife and scraped the paint out of one of the holes down to bare metal.? The blind retainer was still too big for the hole.? The label on the plastic bag that Moss sent says the retainer is 0.187 OD.? Do these come in different sizes?Mike MacLean

Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 8:07 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs<mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:    Funnily enough the Parts catalogue states blind retainers throughout, even though I had?clips fitted from underneath on both my 73 and 75.? The 73 did already have the?blind fixings for the 'MGB' on the?boot lid.??Fitting them to a new body is obviously going to be different to 50 years down the line and who know how many repaints, which is why I drilled mine out beforehand.? The pins on my replacement grilles are the same size as the ones that came off.?PaulH.
 ----- Original Message -----  OK, I went out to the car to try it your way Max.? Those friction retainers are to large of a diameter to push down into the holes in the hood.? The holes in the hood are just big enough to fit the oins on the grill.? I am not in favor of drilling those holes out.? It must have worked somehow differently from the factory.? Maybe it's? a replacement grill and the pins are oversize.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue May 19 12:03:14 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 19:03:14 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
References: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>
 <5129571A-B9F0-4172-B94F-DF87D2A03EF4@sonic.net>
 <1621594007.1194699.1589847154324@mail.yahoo.com>
 <1725197202.1293679.1589861548639@mail.yahoo.com>
 <2EFC063C887B481FA92CE1CBCF905B74@paul>
 <372767043.1542508.1589904777648@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2F96B17F92EB44A08FCD2CA84FB227D3@paul>

Yes, I have 0.155, 0.186 and 0.25.  The middle one is the right one, a fair fit into the holes, albeit a tight push onto the pins.  But I don't see how you could scrape the paint out of the inside of the hole with the point of a pocket knife, only a cone on top of it.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  I took my pocket knife and scraped the paint out of one of the holes down to bare metal.  The blind retainer was still too big for the hole.  The label on the plastic bag that Moss sent says the retainer is 0.187 OD.  Do these come in different sizes?
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From daybell7 at aol.com  Tue May 19 13:31:32 2020
From: daybell7 at aol.com (Stephen Hughes)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 15:31:32 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Wires to Bolt-on Wheels
Message-ID: <mailman.138.1589916699.2961.mgs@autox.team.net>

Either my wire wheeled 1972 Roadster or 1968 GT will get Minilite Wheels.

I?ll need to switch out the hubs for the bolt-ons.  

Since the hubs are not available new, I?ll have to find used hubs.

Anybody have a set or know where I can try?

Thanks,
Steve Hughes
Gainesville, FL

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From dave at ranteer.com  Tue May 19 18:47:56 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 19:47:56 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] vacuum connection to carb
Message-ID: <000001d62e40$4e0e4130$ea2ac390$@ranteer.com>

I bought an mga with a weber.  I am in the process of redoing the whole car
(it needed it!)

 

I purchased a set of HS4's for it, which my friend rebuilt for me.

 

The distributor has a threaded connection for the vacuum connection to the
carbs/intake manifold.

 

How hard is it to buy/make this connection?   

 

Neither the car nor the carbs came with that vacuum tube.

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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Tue May 19 20:00:45 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 19:00:45 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] vacuum connection to carb
In-Reply-To: <000001d62e40$4e0e4130$ea2ac390$@ranteer.com>
References: <000001d62e40$4e0e4130$ea2ac390$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <CABXhz88TuDcUUbYLyCg3m7WoFoesRCL18qQwBg_=5qg++Pi2+g@mail.gmail.com>

tap and drill the manifold to accept a hose nipple with a T fitting
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Tue, May 19, 2020 at 5:50 PM dave via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:

> I bought an mga with a weber.  I am in the process of redoing the whole
> car (it needed it!)
>
>
>
> I purchased a set of HS4?s for it, which my friend rebuilt for me.
>
>
>
> The distributor has a threaded connection for the vacuum connection to the
> carbs/intake manifold.
>
>
>
> How hard is it to buy/make this connection?
>
>
>
> Neither the car nor the carbs came with that vacuum tube.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
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From mogrits at gmail.com  Tue May 19 20:24:37 2020
From: mogrits at gmail.com (Mogrits)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2020 22:24:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 156, Issue 16
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1589911201.21643.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1589911201.21643.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <CAGmEE4crA5FsTYqKy80S437fw=mMXMJv=_wHP2ofqCiv9wD0hg@mail.gmail.com>

I read all the responses. If you don't want to drill the holes out, I'd say
that Harbor Freight has an assortment of angled needle nosed pliers and one
of those pairs would likely work. You can (or could) buy an assortment of
them for about 10.00 that I've found helpful to contort into places that I
never thought possible.

Another option would be dental or surgical pair of pliers/hemostats. Those
things are made to hit every angle. Harbor Freight even usually has those
somewhere in the store.

I did this grill removal during a repaint in 1986 or 1987, but cannot
remember how I put it back on but I know mine's not just "sitting there". I
do recall I could not install the fiberglass window screen that the manuals
recommended at the time for leaf protection because of the need to put the
retainers on.

Warren

Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Grill (Michael MacLean)
>    2. Re: Grill (Max Heim)
>    3. Re: Grill (Michael MacLean)
>    4. Re: Grill (Max Heim)
>    5. Re: Grill (Michael MacLean)
>    6. Re: Grill (Barney Gaylord)
>    7. Re: Grill (PaulHunt73)
>    8. Re: Grill (Michael MacLean)
>    9. Re: Grill (Michael MacLean)
>   10. Re: Grill (PaulHunt73)
>   11. Re: Grill (Michael MacLean)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 23:09:28 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Michael MacLean <rrengineer.mike at att.net>
> To: MGs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Mgs] Grill
> Message-ID: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Has anyone installed the small grill in front of the windshield recently??
> I was surprised to find mine was just dropped into position with nothing to
> retain the pins.? I bought the little plastic being sleeves that you slip
> over the pins to retain the grill that Moss sells, but for the life of me I
> can't figure out how to put them on.? Kind of tough from above.? I am
> beginning to understand why I found the grill that way.
> Mike MacLean1969 MGB GT60 Bugeye1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans
>
>
>
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Wed May 20 01:27:14 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2020 08:27:14 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Wires to Bolt-on Wheels
References: <20200519194025.3E86CA0CD3@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F9CD8EF4160B489484477A338993496D@paul>

Wire wheel axles are a couple of inches shorter than stud wheel so if you put standard wire wheels on standard WW hubs on a chrome bumper car the rear tyres will likely foul the arches.  RB cars are usually OK unless they have been lowered.  There are conversion hubs that bring the wheels in by about half an inch or so, but you can still get fouling especially on the left.  BT, DT, eventually got a pukka wire wheel axle with my aftermarket Dunlop WW wheels but they still rub a bit with 175s as the inset doesn't seem to be as much as the originals, the rear track being 1270mm instead of 1250mm.

Minilites may be OK if the inset is suitable, but really you won't know with either wheel type until you get them on the car as suppliers statements on inset etc. aren't always correct.

Used hubs need to be treated with caution, the splines narrow and lean over especially at the rear and if left will eventually shear.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  Either my wire wheeled 1972 Roadster or 1968 GT will get Minilite Wheels.

   

  I?ll need to switch out the hubs for the bolt-ons.  

   

  Since the hubs are not available new, I?ll have to find used hubs.
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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Thu May 21 07:13:55 2020
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 13:13:55 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Wires to Bolt-on Wheels
In-Reply-To: <F9CD8EF4160B489484477A338993496D@paul>
References: <20200519194025.3E86CA0CD3@autox.team.net>
 <F9CD8EF4160B489484477A338993496D@paul>
Message-ID: <33FFBFF1-6769-4655-9B32-B6F93B65C201@ur.rochester.edu>

What I have found, and have done, is that the axle fitted to MGB from 1965-1980 the over all length is 1 3/4 shorter on the WW or 7/8 on each side from the center of the spring bracket to the outside. To help with the difference in the offsets of the wheels, WW to Steel, you need a 1/4? spacer between the wheel and the brake drum. But, always a but, the studs are now not long enough. Finding studs that will work was a PIA. We found that studs from a Toyota worked the best to fit the holes in the hub with out drilling the holes. Have done this 3 times now and it places the wheel almost in the center of the wheel cavity with no interference of the week to the body.  Good luck.

The best solution is to find a steel wheel axle and use it. Overall cost should be about the same and a bit less work.

paul o
On May 20, 2020, at 3:27 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Wire wheel axles are a couple of inches shorter than stud wheel so if you put standard wire wheels on standard WW hubs on a chrome bumper car the rear tyres will likely foul the arches.  RB cars are usually OK unless they have been lowered.  There are conversion hubs that bring the wheels in by about half an inch or so, but you can still get fouling especially on the left.  BT, DT, eventually got a pukka wire wheel axle with my aftermarket Dunlop WW wheels but they still rub a bit with 175s as the inset doesn't seem to be as much as the originals, the rear track being 1270mm instead of 1250mm.

Minilites may be OK if the inset is suitable, but really you won't know with either wheel type until you get them on the car as suppliers statements on inset etc. aren't always correct.

Used hubs need to be treated with caution, the splines narrow and lean over especially at the rear and if left will eventually shear.

PaulH.
----- Original Message -----

Either my wire wheeled 1972 Roadster or 1968 GT will get Minilite Wheels.

I?ll need to switch out the hubs for the bolt-ons.

Since the hubs are not available new, I?ll have to find used hubs.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=nRF-kDcI4RqJStkTKllg5X7Ec3wEsCjUFSZEYr9SVMs&s=amPaf2bNLYu24gOxoexgSC0FPxUm4qk-7KACXEbKO-0&e=
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=nRF-kDcI4RqJStkTKllg5X7Ec3wEsCjUFSZEYr9SVMs&s=MCDMaRp9tsXRQBZuinC5Dme2TKNFcVWhcAwr156Xs98&e= https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=nRF-kDcI4RqJStkTKllg5X7Ec3wEsCjUFSZEYr9SVMs&s=QbBEsPwu8w5BWAY6oOgmLXgk_emiNyVhsGFjBhpWrhk&e=

Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=nRF-kDcI4RqJStkTKllg5X7Ec3wEsCjUFSZEYr9SVMs&s=JlD81C_MjKKb9PiusKsDRr5PqhRvuxiRSytQ3jxkPNY&e=

Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
   585-275-5226





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From daybell7 at aol.com  Thu May 21 13:26:38 2020
From: daybell7 at aol.com (Stephen Hughes)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 15:26:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Wires to Minilites
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1590084001.8775.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1590084001.8775.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <mailman.141.1590089203.2961.mgs@autox.team.net>

Thanks Ira for suggesting the knock-offs.  I may end up doing that after exhausting the hub change-over option.   My Spitfire (66&72) had hubs that simply bolted on.  Plus, cars were plentiful in junk (salvage) yards at one time.





Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Wires to Bolt-on Wheels (PaulHunt73)
   2. Re: Wires to Bolt-on Wheels (Osborne, Paul)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 20 May 2020 08:27:14 +0100
From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
To: "Stephen Hughes" <daybell7 at aol.com>,	<mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wires to Bolt-on Wheels
Message-ID: <F9CD8EF4160B489484477A338993496D at paul>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Wire wheel axles are a couple of inches shorter than stud wheel so if you put standard wire wheels on standard WW hubs on a chrome bumper car the rear tyres will likely foul the arches.  RB cars are usually OK unless they have been lowered.  There are conversion hubs that bring the wheels in by about half an inch or so, but you can still get fouling especially on the left.  BT, DT, eventually got a pukka wire wheel axle with my aftermarket Dunlop WW wheels but they still rub a bit with 175s as the inset doesn't seem to be as much as the originals, the rear track being 1270mm instead of 1250mm.

Minilites may be OK if the inset is suitable, but really you won't know with either wheel type until you get them on the car as suppliers statements on inset etc. aren't always correct.

Used hubs need to be treated with caution, the splines narrow and lean over especially at the rear and if left will eventually shear.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  Either my wire wheeled 1972 Roadster or 1968 GT will get Minilite Wheels.

   

  I?ll need to switch out the hubs for the bolt-ons.  

   

  Since the hubs are not available new, I?ll have to find used hubs.
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 13:13:55 +0000
From: "Osborne, Paul" <paul at ece.rochester.edu>
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
Cc: Stephen Hughes <daybell7 at aol.com>, "mgs at autox.team.net"
	<mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Wires to Bolt-on Wheels
Message-ID: <33FFBFF1-6769-4655-9B32-B6F93B65C201 at ur.rochester.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

What I have found, and have done, is that the axle fitted to MGB from 1965-1980 the over all length is 1 3/4 shorter on the WW or 7/8 on each side from the center of the spring bracket to the outside. To help with the difference in the offsets of the wheels, WW to Steel, you need a 1/4? spacer between the wheel and the brake drum. But, always a but, the studs are now not long enough. Finding studs that will work was a PIA. We found that studs from a Toyota worked the best to fit the holes in the hub with out drilling the holes. Have done this 3 times now and it places the wheel almost in the center of the wheel cavity with no interference of the week to the body.  Good luck.

The best solution is to find a steel wheel axle and use it. Overall cost should be about the same and a bit less work.

paul o
On May 20, 2020, at 3:27 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:

Wire wheel axles are a couple of inches shorter than stud wheel so if you put standard wire wheels on standard WW hubs on a chrome bumper car the rear tyres will likely foul the arches.  RB cars are usually OK unless they have been lowered.  There are conversion hubs that bring the wheels in by about half an inch or so, but you can still get fouling especially on the left.  BT, DT, eventually got a pukka wire wheel axle with my aftermarket Dunlop WW wheels but they still rub a bit with 175s as the inset doesn't seem to be as much as the originals, the rear track being 1270mm instead of 1250mm.

Minilites may be OK if the inset is suitable, but really you won't know with either wheel type until you get them on the car as suppliers statements on inset etc. aren't always correct.

Used hubs need to be treated with caution, the splines narrow and lean over especially at the rear and if left will eventually shear.

PaulH.
----- Original Message -----

Either my wire wheeled 1972 Roadster or 1968 GT will get Minilite Wheels.

I?ll need to switch out the hubs for the bolt-ons.

Since the hubs are not available new, I?ll have to find used hubs.
_______________________________________________









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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Thu May 21 14:11:49 2020
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 16:11:49 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
Message-ID: <216DEB57-A349-4F9B-AE4B-640E448F3AEA@gmail.com>

   One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders a couple of weeks ago, and I bought them for my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB 1428 for rear, and SB 71620 for the clutch.  It was time to change the hydraulic fluid, so seemed opportune to install these.
   Thanks for the recommendation.  They made the job quick and neat.
   Instructions are OK, but let me add that one should try to pinch the brake lines with ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid, and pinch the clutch line even if you don?t do the others.   All three SBs were of different wrench size from original bleed screws.  Have wrenches ready for both sizes.
   We had two cars to do, hence had two people. What the observer learned, watching from underneath, was that three pumps for each wheel will bring clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes.  
  $38 well spent.
Bob


From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Thu May 21 16:00:20 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 00:00:20 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
In-Reply-To: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <020501d62fbb$388e7ba0$a9ab72e0$@planet.nl>

I have added a small stainless steel mesh under this grill. It is an aftermarket item, but it is worthwhile to have it.

Reason is, that with the original grill only, pretty large things can fall into the space under the grill like leaves falling from the trees. 

That all will clog the drain hole and when that happens, you?ll get wet feet! 

 

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT

 

 

Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Michael MacLean via Mgs
Verzonden: dinsdag 19 mei 2020 1:09
Aan: MGs
Onderwerp: [Mgs] Grill

 

Has anyone installed the small grill in front of the windshield recently?  I was surprised to find mine was just dropped into position with nothing to retain the pins.  I bought the little plastic being sleeves that you slip over the pins to retain the grill that Moss sells, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to put them on.  Kind of tough from above.  I am beginning to understand why I found the grill that way.

 

Mike MacLean

1969 MGB GT

60 Bugeye

1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans

 

Sent from AT <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> &T Yahoo Mail on Android



-- 
Dit e-mailbericht is gecontroleerd op virussen met Avast antivirussoftware.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Fri May 22 08:34:36 2020
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 14:34:36 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <216DEB57-A349-4F9B-AE4B-640E448F3AEA@gmail.com>
References: <216DEB57-A349-4F9B-AE4B-640E448F3AEA@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <06B698E9-9B57-4EF4-9B39-404C2AA95D3B@ur.rochester.edu>

It would have good if when they made them if all the same wrench size. It is a PIA, 3 diff. sizes.

met 3 cents.

paul o

On May 21, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:

  One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders a couple of weeks ago, and I bought them for my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB 1428 for rear, and SB 71620 for the clutch.  It was time to change the hydraulic fluid, so seemed opportune to install these.
  Thanks for the recommendation.  They made the job quick and neat.
  Instructions are OK, but let me add that one should try to pinch the brake lines with ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid, and pinch the clutch line even if you don?t do the others.   All three SBs were of different wrench size from original bleed screws.  Have wrenches ready for both sizes.
  We had two cars to do, hence had two people. What the observer learned, watching from underneath, was that three pumps for each wheel will bring clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes.
 $38 well spent.
Bob

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=a0ss1K0s9IhEbq613f_pcHzUOwIbNa7yyLiIeXzBLz0&e=
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=H2ERFEuCuaXabqZSEXOnpHJP-LgS8yJFXOKMzkpHotM&e=  https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=gJwTZioTu7LEVG-w8VjLI5itZ2vKNgh51FD9m8rLjEo&e=

Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=jixGBsTwSaX5JexavNOUUXgonF1EsAHyDzPFVWlo0kI&e=

Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
   585-275-5226





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From dan.dibiase at gmail.com  Fri May 22 09:11:24 2020
From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 11:11:24 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <06B698E9-9B57-4EF4-9B39-404C2AA95D3B@ur.rochester.edu>
References: <216DEB57-A349-4F9B-AE4B-640E448F3AEA@gmail.com>
 <06B698E9-9B57-4EF4-9B39-404C2AA95D3B@ur.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <CABxEc+nXvP4VirHzHJX=RsrsUik6zBrxF=TLrvswz3Q1tWnvYg@mail.gmail.com>

Is there a technical or logical reason they are all different?

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/


On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 10:42 AM Osborne, Paul via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> It would have good if when they made them if all the same wrench size. It
> is a PIA, 3 diff. sizes.
>
> met 3 cents.
>
> paul o
>
> On May 21, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>   One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders a couple of weeks ago, and I
> bought them for my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB 1428 for rear, and SB
> 71620 for the clutch.  It was time to change the hydraulic fluid, so seemed
> opportune to install these.
>   Thanks for the recommendation.  They made the job quick and neat.
>   Instructions are OK, but let me add that one should try to pinch the
> brake lines with ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid, and pinch the clutch
> line even if you don?t do the others.   All three SBs were of different
> wrench size from original bleed screws.  Have wrenches ready for both sizes.
>   We had two cars to do, hence had two people. What the observer learned,
> watching from underneath, was that three pumps for each wheel will bring
> clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes.
>  $38 well spent.
> Bob
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=a0ss1K0s9IhEbq613f_pcHzUOwIbNa7yyLiIeXzBLz0&e=
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=H2ERFEuCuaXabqZSEXOnpHJP-LgS8yJFXOKMzkpHotM&e=
>
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=gJwTZioTu7LEVG-w8VjLI5itZ2vKNgh51FD9m8rLjEo&e=
>
> Unsubscribe:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=jixGBsTwSaX5JexavNOUUXgonF1EsAHyDzPFVWlo0kI&e=
>
>
> Paul Osborne
> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
> University of Rochester
> 201 Hopeman Building RC
> Rochester NY 14627
>
>    585-275-5226
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>
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From richardolindsay at gmail.com  Fri May 22 09:29:53 2020
From: richardolindsay at gmail.com (Richard Lindsay)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 10:29:53 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <CABxEc+nXvP4VirHzHJX=RsrsUik6zBrxF=TLrvswz3Q1tWnvYg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <216DEB57-A349-4F9B-AE4B-640E448F3AEA@gmail.com>
 <06B698E9-9B57-4EF4-9B39-404C2AA95D3B@ur.rochester.edu>
 <CABxEc+nXvP4VirHzHJX=RsrsUik6zBrxF=TLrvswz3Q1tWnvYg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAOc+-dzDxULnk9GR8n_qKP9A7PGWMKg0ASRLGqy63UmkTsmBow@mail.gmail.com>

Dan  I think it is as simple as different threads.

On Fri, May 22, 2020, 10:15 AM Dan DiBiase via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> Is there a technical or logical reason they are all different?
>
> Dan D
> '76B, '65B
> Central NJ USA
> http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/
>
>
> On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 10:42 AM Osborne, Paul via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
>> It would have good if when they made them if all the same wrench size. It
>> is a PIA, 3 diff. sizes.
>>
>> met 3 cents.
>>
>> paul o
>>
>> On May 21, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs <
>> mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>
>>   One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders a couple of weeks ago, and I
>> bought them for my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB 1428 for rear, and SB
>> 71620 for the clutch.  It was time to change the hydraulic fluid, so seemed
>> opportune to install these.
>>   Thanks for the recommendation.  They made the job quick and neat.
>>   Instructions are OK, but let me add that one should try to pinch the
>> brake lines with ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid, and pinch the clutch
>> line even if you don?t do the others.   All three SBs were of different
>> wrench size from original bleed screws.  Have wrenches ready for both sizes.
>>   We had two cars to do, hence had two people. What the observer learned,
>> watching from underneath, was that three pumps for each wheel will bring
>> clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes.
>>  $38 well spent.
>> Bob
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate:
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=a0ss1K0s9IhEbq613f_pcHzUOwIbNa7yyLiIeXzBLz0&e=
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive:
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=H2ERFEuCuaXabqZSEXOnpHJP-LgS8yJFXOKMzkpHotM&e=
>>
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=gJwTZioTu7LEVG-w8VjLI5itZ2vKNgh51FD9m8rLjEo&e=
>>
>> Unsubscribe:
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=jixGBsTwSaX5JexavNOUUXgonF1EsAHyDzPFVWlo0kI&e=
>>
>>
>> Paul Osborne
>> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
>> University of Rochester
>> 201 Hopeman Building RC
>> Rochester NY 14627
>>
>>    585-275-5226
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/richardolindsay at gmail.com
>
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From mgbobh at gmail.com  Fri May 22 10:31:39 2020
From: mgbobh at gmail.com (Robert's New iPad)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 12:31:39 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <CABxEc+nXvP4VirHzHJX=RsrsUik6zBrxF=TLrvswz3Q1tWnvYg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <216DEB57-A349-4F9B-AE4B-640E448F3AEA@gmail.com>
 <06B698E9-9B57-4EF4-9B39-404C2AA95D3B@ur.rochester.edu>
 <CABxEc+nXvP4VirHzHJX=RsrsUik6zBrxF=TLrvswz3Q1tWnvYg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <99431084-37E1-4723-A802-E939879F6CB6@gmail.com>

   Perhaps there is, or one can be extrapolated from their listing for different cars, in which they say that all metric-thread SBs are SAE wrench size, because metric stock is more expensive.
   To continue research, we must go to McMaster-Carr and see if their hex stock costs more in the larger sizes, and how much.  

> On May 22, 2020, at 11:11 AM, Dan DiBiase <dan.dibiase at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Is there a technical or logical reason they are all different?
> 
> Dan D
> '76B, '65B
> Central NJ USA
> http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/
> 
> 
>> On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 10:42 AM Osborne, Paul via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> It would have good if when they made them if all the same wrench size. It is a PIA, 3 diff. sizes.
>> 
>> met 3 cents. 
>> 
>> paul o
>> 
>>> On May 21, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>>   One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders a couple of weeks ago, and I bought them for my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB 1428 for rear, and SB 71620 for the clutch.  It was time to change the hydraulic fluid, so seemed opportune to install these.
>>>   Thanks for the recommendation.  They made the job quick and neat.
>>>   Instructions are OK, but let me add that one should try to pinch the brake lines with ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid, and pinch the clutch line even if you don?t do the others.   All three SBs were of different wrench size from original bleed screws.  Have wrenches ready for both sizes.
>>>   We had two cars to do, hence had two people. What the observer learned, watching from underneath, was that three pumps for each wheel will bring clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes.  
>>>  $38 well spent.
>>> Bob
>>> 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=a0ss1K0s9IhEbq613f_pcHzUOwIbNa7yyLiIeXzBLz0&e= 
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=H2ERFEuCuaXabqZSEXOnpHJP-LgS8yJFXOKMzkpHotM&e=  https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=gJwTZioTu7LEVG-w8VjLI5itZ2vKNgh51FD9m8rLjEo&e= 
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=jixGBsTwSaX5JexavNOUUXgonF1EsAHyDzPFVWlo0kI&e= 
>> 
>>> Paul Osborne
>>> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
>>> University of Rochester 
>>> 201 Hopeman Building RC
>>> Rochester NY 14627
>>> 
>>    585-275-5226
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
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From jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com  Fri May 22 10:40:31 2020
From: jwheeler1947 at yahoo.com (Jack Wheeler)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 16:40:31 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Performance MGB for Sale
References: <410683651.3438822.1590165631374.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <410683651.3438822.1590165631374@mail.yahoo.com>

I purchased a very solid, original 1971 MGB from Texas in 2014.? I spent $24K and hundreds of hours of my time performing a complete mechanical restoration, and also upgraded the interior with new leather seat coverings, new door panels & other panels.? I also improved the performance of the engine with 1 3/4" carburetors, cam, competition overhead, stainless steel headers & exhaust, etc.? The front and rear suspension was completely rebuilt with competition springs, new shocks and was lowered by 1" at both ends.? I have been rebuilding British sports cars for 50 years, and this is the third MGB I have restored.? Unfortunately, serious health problems (and too many cars) force me to now sell this car.
I'm looking for a buyer who will be interested in the performance aspect of this car and thought this list would be the way to go.? I don't expect to recover all of my investment, but I would like to get $16,000 for the car.? Attached is more information about the car and a spreadsheet showing all of the new parts I have bought and installed, if you are interested.? Thanks.
Jack Wheeler910-687-0211
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From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri May 22 11:01:33 2020
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 13:01:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <99431084-37E1-4723-A802-E939879F6CB6@gmail.com>
References: <216DEB57-A349-4F9B-AE4B-640E448F3AEA@gmail.com>
 <06B698E9-9B57-4EF4-9B39-404C2AA95D3B@ur.rochester.edu>
 <CABxEc+nXvP4VirHzHJX=RsrsUik6zBrxF=TLrvswz3Q1tWnvYg@mail.gmail.com>
 <99431084-37E1-4723-A802-E939879F6CB6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.143.1590166900.2961.mgs@autox.team.net>

Actually it's the other way around.  When these 
things are manufactured overseas, metric hex 
stock is common while imperial dimension stock is 
near impossible to source.  Result is that 
replacement parts are often delivered with metric 
dimensions, so we are now forced to be adding 
metric tools to our traveling tool kits.


At 12:31 PM 5/22/2020, Robert's New iPad via Mgs wrote:
>    Perhaps there is, or one can be extrapolated 
> from their listing for different cars, in which 
> they say that all metric-thread SBs are SAE 
> wrench size, because metric stock is more expensive.
>    To continue research, we must go to 
> McMaster-Carr and see if their hex stock costs 
> more in the larger sizes, and how much.


>On May 22, 2020, at 11:11 AM, Dan DiBiase 
><<mailto:dan.dibiase at gmail.com>dan.dibiase at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>Is there a technical or logical reason they are all different?
>>
>>Dan D
>>'76B, '65B
>>Central NJ USA
>><http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/>http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/


>>On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 10:42 AM Osborne, Paul 
>>via Mgs <<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>It would have good if when they made them if 
>>all the same wrench size. It is a PIA, 3 diff. sizes.
>>
>>met 3 cents.
>>
>>paul o


>>>On May 21, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Robert's New iPad 
>>>via Mgs <<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>   One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders 
>>> a couple of weeks ago, and I bought them for 
>>> my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB 1428 for 
>>> rear, and SB 71620 for the clutch.  It was 
>>> time to change the hydraulic fluid, so seemed opportune to install these.
>>>   Thanks for the recommendation.  They made the job quick and neat.
>>>   Instructions are OK, but let me add that 
>>> one should try to pinch the brake lines with 
>>> ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid, and 
>>> pinch the clutch line even if you don???t do 
>>> the others.   All three SBs were of different 
>>> wrench size from original bleed screws.  Have wrenches ready for both sizes.
>>>   We had two cars to do, hence had two 
>>> people. What the observer learned, watching 
>>> from underneath, was that three pumps for 
>>> each wheel will bring clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes.
>>>  $38 well spent.
>>>Bob
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From barneymg at mgaguru.com  Fri May 22 11:04:14 2020
From: barneymg at mgaguru.com (Barney Gaylord)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 13:04:14 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <99431084-37E1-4723-A802-E939879F6CB6@gmail.com>
References: <216DEB57-A349-4F9B-AE4B-640E448F3AEA@gmail.com>
 <06B698E9-9B57-4EF4-9B39-404C2AA95D3B@ur.rochester.edu>
 <CABxEc+nXvP4VirHzHJX=RsrsUik6zBrxF=TLrvswz3Q1tWnvYg@mail.gmail.com>
 <99431084-37E1-4723-A802-E939879F6CB6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <mailman.144.1590167061.2961.mgs@autox.team.net>

Actually it's the other way around.  When these 
things are manufactured overseas, metric hex 
stock is common while imperial dimension stock is 
near impossible to source.  Result is that 
replacement parts are often delivered with metric 
dimensions, so we are now forced to be adding 
metric tools to our traveling tool kits.


At 12:31 PM 5/22/2020, Robert's New iPad via Mgs wrote:
>    Perhaps there is, or one can be extrapolated 
> from their listing for different cars, in which 
> they say that all metric-thread SBs are SAE 
> wrench size, because metric stock is more expensive.
>    To continue research, we must go to 
> McMaster-Carr and see if their hex stock costs 
> more in the larger sizes, and how much.


>On May 22, 2020, at 11:11 AM, Dan DiBiase 
><<mailto:dan.dibiase at gmail.com>dan.dibiase at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>Is there a technical or logical reason they are all different?
>>
>>Dan D
>>'76B, '65B
>>Central NJ USA
>><http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/>http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/


>>On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 10:42 AM Osborne, Paul 
>>via Mgs <<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>It would have good if when they made them if 
>>all the same wrench size. It is a PIA, 3 diff. sizes.
>>met 3 cents.
>>paul o
>>>On May 21, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Robert's New iPad 
>>>via Mgs <<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>   One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders 
>>> a couple of weeks ago, and I bought them for 
>>> my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB 1428 for 
>>> rear, and SB 71620 for the clutch.  It was 
>>> time to change the hydraulic fluid, so seemed opportune to install these.
>>>   Thanks for the recommendation.  They made the job quick and neat.
>>>   Instructions are OK, but let me add that 
>>> one should try to pinch the brake lines with 
>>> ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid, and 
>>> pinch the clutch line even if you don???t do 
>>> the others.   All three SBs were of different 
>>> wrench size from original bleed screws.  Have wrenches ready for both sizes.
>>>   We had two cars to do, hence had two 
>>> people. What the observer learned, watching 
>>> from underneath, was that three pumps for 
>>> each wheel will bring clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes.
>>>  $38 well spent.
>>>Bob
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri May 22 11:45:14 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 10:45:14 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <20200522170427.BD885A1758@autox.team.net>
References: <20200522170427.BD885A1758@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4D01EB8E-3907-4765-8359-93D1C2E11B0C@sonic.net>

What Barney said. I was recently extremely irritated to find that the only rear wheel brake cylinders I could buy for my 1967 Plymouth had 7mm hexes on the bleeders. Who even has a 7mm wrench? And when I bought a cheap set of small metric wrenches just for this purpose, the fit was so bad it rounded off the equally cheap hex.

I tapped out the holes and installed SAE (I think 5/16) bleed screws.

Sent from my iPad

> On May 22, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Barney Gaylord via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ? Actually it's the other way around.  When these things are manufactured overseas, metric hex stock is common while imperial dimension stock is near impossible to source.  Result is that replacement parts are often delivered with metric dimensions, so we are now forced to be adding metric tools to our traveling tool kits.
> 
> 
> At 12:31 PM 5/22/2020, Robert's New iPad via Mgs wrote:
>>    Perhaps there is, or one can be extrapolated from their listing for different cars, in which they say that all metric-thread SBs are SAE wrench size, because metric stock is more expensive.
>>    To continue research, we must go to McMaster-Carr and see if their hex stock costs more in the larger sizes, and how much. 
> 
> 
>>> On May 22, 2020, at 11:11 AM, Dan DiBiase <dan.dibiase at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Is there a technical or logical reason they are all different?
>>>> 
>>>> Dan D
>>>> '76B, '65B
>>>> Central NJ USA
>>>> http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/
>> 
>> 
>>>> On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 10:42 AM Osborne, Paul via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>> It would have good if when they made them if all the same wrench size. It is a PIA, 3 diff. sizes. 
>>>> met 3 cents. 
>>>> paul o
>>>> On May 21, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>>>   One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders a couple of weeks ago, and I bought them for my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB 1428 for rear, and SB 71620 for the clutch.  It was time to change the hydraulic fluid, so seemed opportune to install these.
>>>>   Thanks for the recommendation.  They made the job quick and neat.
>>>>   Instructions are OK, but let me add that one should try to pinch the brake lines with ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid, and pinch the clutch line even if you don?t do the others.   All three SBs were of different wrench size from original bleed screws.  Have wrenches ready for both sizes.
>>>>   We had two cars to do, hence had two people. What the observer learned, watching from underneath, was that three pumps for each wheel will bring clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes. 
>>>>  $38 well spent.
>>>> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
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From barrob at bell.net  Fri May 22 12:44:04 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 14:44:04 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <99431084-37E1-4723-A802-E939879F6CB6@gmail.com>
References: <216DEB57-A349-4F9B-AE4B-640E448F3AEA@gmail.com>
 <06B698E9-9B57-4EF4-9B39-404C2AA95D3B@ur.rochester.edu>
 <CABxEc+nXvP4VirHzHJX=RsrsUik6zBrxF=TLrvswz3Q1tWnvYg@mail.gmail.com>
 <99431084-37E1-4723-A802-E939879F6CB6@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <ea5a2e8e-48b9-2259-619f-8bfb5853e6a8@bell.net>

I think British Tools & Fasteners may have required tools???

Cheers
Barrie

On 5/22/2020 12:31 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs wrote:
> ? ?Perhaps there is, or one can be extrapolated from their listing for 
> different cars, in which they say that all metric-thread SBs are SAE 
> wrench size, because metric stock is more expensive.
> ? ?To continue research, we must go to McMaster-Carr and see if their 
> hex stock costs more in the larger sizes, and how much.
>
> On May 22, 2020, at 11:11 AM, Dan DiBiase <dan.dibiase at gmail.com 
> <mailto:dan.dibiase at gmail.com>> wrote:
>
>> Is there a technical or logical reason they are all different?
>>
>> Dan D
>> '76B, '65B
>> Central NJ USA
>> http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/
>>
>>
>> On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 10:42 AM Osborne, Paul via Mgs 
>> <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>
>>     It would have good if when they made them if all the same wrench
>>     size. It is a PIA, 3 diff. sizes.
>>
>>     met 3 cents.
>>
>>     paul o
>>
>>>     On May 21, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs
>>>     <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>
>>>     ??One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders a couple of weeks
>>>     ago, and I bought them for my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB
>>>     1428 for rear, and SB 71620 for the clutch. It was time to
>>>     change the hydraulic fluid, so seemed opportune to install these.
>>>     ??Thanks for the recommendation.? They made the job quick and neat.
>>>     ??Instructions are OK, but let me add that one should try to
>>>     pinch the brake lines with ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid,
>>>     and pinch the clutch line even if you don?t do the others. ??All
>>>     three SBs were of different wrench size from original bleed
>>>     screws. ?Have wrenches ready for both sizes.
>>>     ??We had two cars to do, hence had two people. What the observer
>>>     learned, watching from underneath, was that three pumps for each
>>>     wheel will bring clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes.
>>>     ?$38 well spent.
>>>     Bob
>>>
>>>     _______________________________________________
>>>
>>>     Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>>>     Donate:
>>>     https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=a0ss1K0s9IhEbq613f_pcHzUOwIbNa7yyLiIeXzBLz0&e=
>>>
>>>     Suggested annual donation ?$12.75
>>>
>>>     Archive:
>>>     https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=H2ERFEuCuaXabqZSEXOnpHJP-LgS8yJFXOKMzkpHotM&e=
>>>     https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=gJwTZioTu7LEVG-w8VjLI5itZ2vKNgh51FD9m8rLjEo&e=
>>>
>>>
>>>     Unsubscribe:
>>>     https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwIGaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=NQMpqgR66BkiR8_V5rZgdUaDFB_EbdXnCfW7UvjHigI&s=jixGBsTwSaX5JexavNOUUXgonF1EsAHyDzPFVWlo0kI&e=
>>>
>>
>>>     Paul Osborne
>>>     Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
>>>     University of Rochester
>>>     201 Hopeman Building RC
>>>     Rochester NY 14627
>>>
>>     ?585-275-5226
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>     _______________________________________________
>>
>>     Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>>     Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>>
>>     Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs
>>     http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>>     Unsubscribe:
>>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net

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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Fri May 22 12:44:40 2020
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 18:44:40 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <4D01EB8E-3907-4765-8359-93D1C2E11B0C@sonic.net>
References: <20200522170427.BD885A1758@autox.team.net>
 <4D01EB8E-3907-4765-8359-93D1C2E11B0C@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <4FA54DC4-6D4B-4C95-9366-3DF33C8DEB8B@ur.rochester.edu>

In fear of my comment,,, a good set of mechanic wrenches, metric, has all the sizes in 1mm increments. The set you buy from say HF or even Sears Cobalt  does not.

paul o

On May 22, 2020, at 1:45 PM, Max Heim via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:

What Barney said. I was recently extremely irritated to find that the only rear wheel brake cylinders I could buy for my 1967 Plymouth had 7mm hexes on the bleeders. Who even has a 7mm wrench? And when I bought a cheap set of small metric wrenches just for this purpose, the fit was so bad it rounded off the equally cheap hex.

I tapped out the holes and installed SAE (I think 5/16) bleed screws.

Sent from my iPad

On May 22, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Barney Gaylord via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:

? Actually it's the other way around.  When these things are manufactured overseas, metric hex stock is common while imperial dimension stock is near impossible to source.  Result is that replacement parts are often delivered with metric dimensions, so we are now forced to be adding metric tools to our traveling tool kits.


At 12:31 PM 5/22/2020, Robert's New iPad via Mgs wrote:
   Perhaps there is, or one can be extrapolated from their listing for different cars, in which they say that all metric-thread SBs are SAE wrench size, because metric stock is more expensive.
   To continue research, we must go to McMaster-Carr and see if their hex stock costs more in the larger sizes, and how much.


On May 22, 2020, at 11:11 AM, Dan DiBiase <dan.dibiase at gmail.com<mailto:dan.dibiase at gmail.com>> wrote:

Is there a technical or logical reason they are all different?

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__dandibiase.cbintouch.com_&d=DwMFaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=q6YOtU66q6qQ1d98esey9V_1vNJZ4Gc6yqtQ59TyWNo&s=cBOxWfyPtb1Wp5KBuc5VnuJ7M3COYsV27kR3IDmUptg&e=>


On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 10:42 AM Osborne, Paul via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:

It would have good if when they made them if all the same wrench size. It is a PIA, 3 diff. sizes.
met 3 cents.
paul o

On May 21, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
  One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders a couple of weeks ago, and I bought them for my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB 1428 for rear, and SB 71620 for the clutch.  It was time to change the hydraulic fluid, so seemed opportune to install these.
  Thanks for the recommendation.  They made the job quick and neat.
  Instructions are OK, but let me add that one should try to pinch the brake lines with ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid, and pinch the clutch line even if you don?t do the others.   All three SBs were of different wrench size from original bleed screws.  Have wrenches ready for both sizes.
  We had two cars to do, hence had two people. What the observer learned, watching from underneath, was that three pumps for each wheel will bring clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes.
 $38 well spent.
Bob
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwQFaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=q6YOtU66q6qQ1d98esey9V_1vNJZ4Gc6yqtQ59TyWNo&s=KWO1b7ehnvVnNVPMOBFkkrO3J6g7tmutSRL23kRElRA&e=>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwQFaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=q6YOtU66q6qQ1d98esey9V_1vNJZ4Gc6yqtQ59TyWNo&s=VY9_9U747KoVFIvC-GMQOn63gULjblXq-Kfw31ITSAw&e=> http://autox.team.net/archive<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwQFaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=q6YOtU66q6qQ1d98esey9V_1vNJZ4Gc6yqtQ59TyWNo&s=vz27CzHW3PJWX92CXOqclrXZ9P6VOIV-d8dsJt0x53A&e=>

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Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
   585-275-5226





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From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri May 22 12:50:14 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 11:50:14 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <4FA54DC4-6D4B-4C95-9366-3DF33C8DEB8B@ur.rochester.edu>
References: <20200522170427.BD885A1758@autox.team.net>
 <4D01EB8E-3907-4765-8359-93D1C2E11B0C@sonic.net>
 <4FA54DC4-6D4B-4C95-9366-3DF33C8DEB8B@ur.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <7404CAA3-DAB7-4D5D-A0E3-BCBE1086BD35@sonic.net>

Sure. But the requirement of carrying ONE metric tool for a vintage all-SAE vehicle is understandably irksome. Plus, it means that tool isn?t in the drawer for when one is working on a modern metric vehicle.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB



> On May 22, 2020, at 11:44 AM, Osborne, Paul <paul at ece.rochester.edu> wrote:
> 
> In fear of my comment,,, a good set of mechanic wrenches, metric, has all the sizes in 1mm increments. The set you buy from say HF or even Sears Cobalt  does not. 
> 
> paul o
> 
>> On May 22, 2020, at 1:45 PM, Max Heim via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> 
>> What Barney said. I was recently extremely irritated to find that the only rear wheel brake cylinders I could buy for my 1967 Plymouth had 7mm hexes on the bleeders. Who even has a 7mm wrench? And when I bought a cheap set of small metric wrenches just for this purpose, the fit was so bad it rounded off the equally cheap hex.
>> 
>> I tapped out the holes and installed SAE (I think 5/16) bleed screws.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On May 22, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Barney Gaylord via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ? Actually it's the other way around.  When these things are manufactured overseas, metric hex stock is common while imperial dimension stock is near impossible to source.  Result is that replacement parts are often delivered with metric dimensions, so we are now forced to be adding metric tools to our traveling tool kits.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> At 12:31 PM 5/22/2020, Robert's New iPad via Mgs wrote:
>>>>    Perhaps there is, or one can be extrapolated from their listing for different cars, in which they say that all metric-thread SBs are SAE wrench size, because metric stock is more expensive.
>>>>    To continue research, we must go to McMaster-Carr and see if their hex stock costs more in the larger sizes, and how much. 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On May 22, 2020, at 11:11 AM, Dan DiBiase <dan.dibiase at gmail.com <mailto:dan.dibiase at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> Is there a technical or logical reason they are all different?
>>>>> 
>>>>> Dan D
>>>>> '76B, '65B
>>>>> Central NJ USA
>>>>> http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__dandibiase.cbintouch.com_&d=DwMFaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=q6YOtU66q6qQ1d98esey9V_1vNJZ4Gc6yqtQ59TyWNo&s=cBOxWfyPtb1Wp5KBuc5VnuJ7M3COYsV27kR3IDmUptg&e=>
>>> 
>>>>> On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 10:42 AM Osborne, Paul via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>>> It would have good if when they made them if all the same wrench size. It is a PIA, 3 diff. sizes. 
>>>>> met 3 cents. 
>>>>> paul o
>>>>>> On May 21, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>>>>   One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders a couple of weeks ago, and I bought them for my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB 1428 for rear, and SB 71620 for the clutch.  It was time to change the hydraulic fluid, so seemed opportune to install these.
>>>>>>   Thanks for the recommendation.  They made the job quick and neat.
>>>>>>   Instructions are OK, but let me add that one should try to pinch the brake lines with ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid, and pinch the clutch line even if you don?t do the others.   All three SBs were of different wrench size from original  bleed screws.  Have wrenches ready for both sizes.
>>>>>>   We had two cars to do, hence had two people. What the observer learned, watching from underneath, was that three pumps for each wheel will bring clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes. 
>>>>>>  $38 well spent.
>>>>>> Bob
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwQFaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=q6YOtU66q6qQ1d98esey9V_1vNJZ4Gc6yqtQ59TyWNo&s=KWO1b7ehnvVnNVPMOBFkkrO3J6g7tmutSRL23kRElRA&e=>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwQFaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=q6YOtU66q6qQ1d98esey9V_1vNJZ4Gc6yqtQ59TyWNo&s=VY9_9U747KoVFIvC-GMQOn63gULjblXq-Kfw31ITSAw&e=> http://autox.team.net/archive <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwQFaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=q6YOtU66q6qQ1d98esey9V_1vNJZ4Gc6yqtQ59TyWNo&s=vz27CzHW3PJWX92CXOqclrXZ9P6VOIV-d8dsJt0x53A&e=>
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>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=q6YOtU66q6qQ1d98esey9V_1vNJZ4Gc6yqtQ59TyWNo&s=KWO1b7ehnvVnNVPMOBFkkrO3J6g7tmutSRL23kRElRA&e= 
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=q6YOtU66q6qQ1d98esey9V_1vNJZ4Gc6yqtQ59TyWNo&s=VY9_9U747KoVFIvC-GMQOn63gULjblXq-Kfw31ITSAw&e=  https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=q6YOtU66q6qQ1d98esey9V_1vNJZ4Gc6yqtQ59TyWNo&s=vz27CzHW3PJWX92CXOqclrXZ9P6VOIV-d8dsJt0x53A&e= 
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=q6YOtU66q6qQ1d98esey9V_1vNJZ4Gc6yqtQ59TyWNo&s=-j7ZS3UKVhSPccfk2dEnMAbwZAdJjICO8HlfR43Dp2U&e= 
> 
>> Paul Osborne
>> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
>> University of Rochester 
>> 201 Hopeman Building RC
>> Rochester NY 14627
>    585-275-5226
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

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From palte at gmx.net  Fri May 22 14:10:16 2020
From: palte at gmx.net (palte)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 22:10:16 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <4D01EB8E-3907-4765-8359-93D1C2E11B0C@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <1M1psI-1ja28R39GS-002K8D@mail.gmx.com>

Even in my metric habitat (I live in Europe)a 7mm spanner is not that common.Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone.
-------- Oorspronkelijk bericht --------Van: Max Heim via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> Datum: 22-05-2020  19:45  (GMT+01:00) Aan: Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com> Cc: MG list mail everyone <mgs at autox.team.net> Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders What Barney said. I was recently extremely irritated to find that the only rear wheel brake cylinders I could buy for my 1967 Plymouth had 7mm hexes on the bleeders. Who even has a 7mm wrench? And when I bought a cheap set of small metric wrenches just for this purpose, the fit was so bad it rounded off the equally cheap hex.I tapped out the holes and installed SAE (I think 5/16) bleed screws.Sent from my iPadOn May 22, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Barney Gaylord via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:?

Actually it's the other way around.? When these things are
manufactured overseas, metric hex stock is common while imperial
dimension stock is near impossible to source.? Result is that
replacement parts are often delivered with metric dimensions, so we are
now forced to be adding metric tools to our traveling tool kits.

At 12:31 PM 5/22/2020, Robert's New iPad via Mgs wrote:
?? Perhaps there is,
or one can be extrapolated from their listing for different cars, in
which they say that all metric-thread SBs are SAE wrench size, because
metric stock is more expensive.
?? To continue research, we must go to McMaster-Carr and see if
their hex stock costs more in the larger sizes, and how much.?

On May 22, 2020, at 11:11 AM,
Dan DiBiase
<dan.dibiase at gmail.com>
wrote:
Is there a technical or logical
reason they are all different?
Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA

http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/

On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 10:42 AM
Osborne, Paul via Mgs
<mgs at autox.team.net>
wrote:

It would have good if when they made them if all the same wrench
size. It is a PIA, 3 diff. sizes. 

met 3 cents. 

paul o




On May 21, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs
<mgs at autox.team.net>
wrote:

? One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders a couple of weeks
ago, and I bought them for my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB 1428 for
rear, and SB 71620 for the clutch.? It was time to change the
hydraulic fluid, so seemed opportune to install these.
? Thanks for the recommendation.? They made the job quick
and neat.
? Instructions are OK, but let me add that one should try to
pinch the brake lines with ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid, and pinch
the clutch line even if you don?t do the others.?? All three
SBs were of different wrench size from original bleed screws.? Have
wrenches ready for both sizes.
? We had two cars to do, hence had two people. What the observer
learned, watching from underneath, was that three pumps for each wheel
will bring clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes.? 
?$38 well spent.
Bob 


_______________________________________________Mgs at autox.team.netDonate: http://www.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation ?$12.75Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archiveUnsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri May 22 14:16:22 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 13:16:22 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <1M1psI-1ja28R39GS-002K8D@mail.gmx.com>
References: <1M1psI-1ja28R39GS-002K8D@mail.gmx.com>
Message-ID: <421D6929-FC65-4CBE-8AE9-11CF7466D6A2@sonic.net>

I can see why ? it is a uselessly tiny size. Appropriate for fine instruments, perhaps, but seriously undersized for anything that needs actual tightening, like a bleed screw.


--
Max Heim
'66 MGB


> On May 22, 2020, at 1:10 PM, palte <palte at gmx.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> Even in my metric habitat (I live in Europe)
> a 7mm spanner is not that common.
> 
> 
> Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone.
> 
> 
> -------- Oorspronkelijk bericht --------
> Van: Max Heim via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Datum: 22-05-2020 19:45 (GMT+01:00)
> Aan: Barney Gaylord <barneymg at mgaguru.com>
> Cc: MG list mail everyone <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
> 
> What Barney said. I was recently extremely irritated to find that the only rear wheel brake cylinders I could buy for my 1967 Plymouth had 7mm hexes on the bleeders. Who even has a 7mm wrench? And when I bought a cheap set of small metric wrenches just for this purpose, the fit was so bad it rounded off the equally cheap hex.
> 
> I tapped out the holes and installed SAE (I think 5/16) bleed screws.
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On May 22, 2020, at 10:04 AM, Barney Gaylord via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> ? Actually it's the other way around.  When these things are manufactured overseas, metric hex stock is common while imperial dimension stock is near impossible to source.  Result is that replacement parts are often delivered with metric dimensions, so we are now forced to be adding metric tools to our traveling tool kits.
>> 
>> 
>> At 12:31 PM 5/22/2020, Robert's New iPad via Mgs wrote:
>>>    Perhaps there is, or one can be extrapolated from their listing for different cars, in which they say that all metric-thread SBs are SAE wrench size, because metric stock is more expensive.
>>>    To continue research, we must go to McMaster-Carr and see if their hex stock costs more in the larger sizes, and how much. 
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 22, 2020, at 11:11 AM, Dan DiBiase <dan.dibiase at gmail.com <mailto:dan.dibiase at gmail.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Is there a technical or logical reason they are all different?
>>>> 
>>>> Dan D
>>>> '76B, '65B
>>>> Central NJ USA
>>>> http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/ <http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/>
>> 
>>>> On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 10:42 AM Osborne, Paul via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>> It would have good if when they made them if all the same wrench size. It is a PIA, 3 diff. sizes. 
>>>> met 3 cents. 
>>>> paul o
>>>>> On May 21, 2020, at 4:11 PM, Robert's New iPad via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>>>>   One kind lister recommended Speed Bleeders a couple of weeks ago, and I bought them for my MGB, SB 3824 for front brakes, SB 1428 for rear, and SB 71620 for the clutch.  It was time to change the hydraulic fluid, so seemed opportune to install these.
>>>>>   Thanks for the recommendation.  They made the job quick and neat.
>>>>>   Instructions are OK, but let me add that one should try to pinch the brake lines with ViceGrips to minimise loss of fluid, and pinch the clutch line even if you don?t do the others.   All three SBs were of different wrench size from original bleed screws.  Have wrenches ready for both sizes.
>>>>>   We had two cars to do, hence had two people. What the observer learned, watching from underneath, was that three pumps for each wheel will bring clear, clean fluid to both front and rear brakes. 
>>>>>  $38 well spent.
>>>>> Bob
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sat May 23 01:57:56 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 08:57:56 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
References: <1M1psI-1ja28R39GS-002K8D@mail.gmx.com>
 <421D6929-FC65-4CBE-8AE9-11CF7466D6A2@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <6E8D517D90614AA8B76D7F9BAF005BB1@paul>

On both of mine the clutch and caliper nipples are the same hex size.

Wheel cylinders are quite a bit smaller so not surprising the bleed nipples are smaller.

How tight do you need them to be?  If they round-off it's the screw that is the problem.  Use a socket for initial loosening and final tightening, in my 3/8" drive socket set they go down to 4mm and 3/16".

PaulH.


  ----- Original Message ----- 


  I can see why ? it is a uselessly tiny size. Appropriate for fine instruments, perhaps, but seriously undersized for anything that needs actual tightening, like a bleed screw. 
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From eyera3000 at gmail.com  Thu May 21 11:37:00 2020
From: eyera3000 at gmail.com (i erbs)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2020 10:37:00 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Wires to Bolt-on Wheels
In-Reply-To: <33FFBFF1-6769-4655-9B32-B6F93B65C201@ur.rochester.edu>
References: <20200519194025.3E86CA0CD3@autox.team.net>
 <F9CD8EF4160B489484477A338993496D@paul>
 <33FFBFF1-6769-4655-9B32-B6F93B65C201@ur.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <CABXhz89FTtcnJfVztVvhsr+oFj_gP31zWY7OYokTYFw7xYkwSA@mail.gmail.com>

why not get minlite knock offs and just use your existing setup?
https://mossmotors.com/mgb/wheels-tires/minilite-style-knockoff-wheels-6
Ira Erbs
Portland,OR
      _______                                  _______
     (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)
         (_________________________)
          BT7 engine and disk brakes


1967 MGB  [image: MG]

A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words


On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 6:14 AM Osborne, Paul via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
wrote:

> What I have found, and have done, is that the axle fitted to MGB from
> 1965-1980 the over all length is 1 3/4 shorter on the WW or 7/8 on each
> side from the center of the spring bracket to the outside. To help with the
> difference in the offsets of the wheels, WW to Steel, you need a 1/4?
> spacer between the wheel and the brake drum. But, always a but, the studs
> are now not long enough. Finding studs that will work was a PIA. We found
> that studs from a Toyota worked the best to fit the holes in the hub with
> out drilling the holes. Have done this 3 times now and it places the wheel
> almost in the center of the wheel cavity with no interference of the week
> to the body.  Good luck.
>
> The best solution is to find a steel wheel axle and use it. Overall cost
> should be about the same and a bit less work.
>
> paul o
>
> On May 20, 2020, at 3:27 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> Wire wheel axles are a couple of inches shorter than stud wheel so if you
> put standard wire wheels on standard WW hubs on a chrome bumper car the
> rear tyres will likely foul the arches.  RB cars are usually OK unless they
> have been lowered.  There are conversion hubs that bring the wheels in by
> about half an inch or so, but you can still get fouling especially on the
> left.  BT, DT, eventually got a pukka wire wheel axle with my aftermarket
> Dunlop WW wheels but they still rub a bit with 175s as the inset doesn't
> seem to be as much as the originals, the rear track being 1270mm instead of
> 1250mm.
>
> Minilites may be OK if the inset is suitable, but really you won't know
> with either wheel type until you get them on the car as suppliers
> statements on inset etc. aren't always correct.
>
> Used hubs need to be treated with caution, the splines narrow and lean
> over especially at the rear and if left will eventually shear.
>
> PaulH.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> Either my wire wheeled 1972 Roadster or 1968 GT will get Minilite Wheels.
>
> I?ll need to switch out the hubs for the bolt-ons.
>
> Since the hubs are not available new, I?ll have to find used hubs.
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=nRF-kDcI4RqJStkTKllg5X7Ec3wEsCjUFSZEYr9SVMs&s=amPaf2bNLYu24gOxoexgSC0FPxUm4qk-7KACXEbKO-0&e=
>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
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>
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>
>
> Unsubscribe:
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>
>
>
> Paul Osborne
> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
> University of Rochester
> 201 Hopeman Building RC
> Rochester NY 14627
>
>    585-275-5226
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/eyera3000 at gmail.com
>
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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sat May 23 14:10:23 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 22:10:23 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
In-Reply-To: <82566ffd-4b6a-1cf6-5a2b-422bd063ae0f@bell.net>
References: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>
 <020501d62fbb$388e7ba0$a9ab72e0$@planet.nl>
 <82566ffd-4b6a-1cf6-5a2b-422bd063ae0f@bell.net>
Message-ID: <000001d6313e$313af890$93b0e9b0$@planet.nl>

Wow Barrie,

 

Tell me more, tell me more, how to catch a 747 with a piece of mesh stuff!

When you teach me, I?ll immediately will try it out at Amsterdam Airport!

Despite KLM has dumped all of their 747 passenger fleet, there still are some cargo planes left.

 

Cheers,

Hans 

 

Van: Barrie Robinson [mailto:barrob at bell.net] 
Verzonden: vrijdag 22 mei 2020 16:26
Aan: Hans Duinhoven
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Grill

 

Hello folks,

I used to make stainless mesh grille things and I have one on my MGB GT V8.   Maybe I should make them again !!!    It catches all those big things like oak and sycamore leaves, pigeons, bats, perambulators and the terror of them all - 747s !!!

On 5/21/2020 6:00 PM, Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote:

I have added a small stainless steel mesh under this grill. It is an aftermarket item, but it is worthwhile to have it.

Reason is, that with the original grill only, pretty large things can fall into the space under the grill like leaves falling from the trees. 

That all will clog the drain hole and when that happens, you?ll get wet feet! 

 

Cheers,

Hans

71 BGT

 

 

Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Michael MacLean via Mgs
Verzonden: dinsdag 19 mei 2020 1:09
Aan: MGs
Onderwerp: [Mgs] Grill

 

Has anyone installed the small grill in front of the windshield recently?  I was surprised to find mine was just dropped into position with nothing to retain the pins.  I bought the little plastic being sleeves that you slip over the pins to retain the grill that Moss sells, but for the life of me I can't figure out how to put them on.  Kind of tough from above.  I am beginning to understand why I found the grill that way.

 

Mike MacLean

1969 MGB GT

60 Bugeye

1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans

 

Sent from AT <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature> &T Yahoo Mail on Android

 


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Virusvrij.  <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient> www.avast.com 





_______________________________________________
 
Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75
 
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
 
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net

 



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From barrob at bell.net  Sat May 23 15:27:53 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 17:27:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
In-Reply-To: <000001d6313e$313af890$93b0e9b0$@planet.nl>
References: <46678863.1175486.1589843368674.ref@mail.yahoo.com>
 <46678863.1175486.1589843368674@mail.yahoo.com>
 <020501d62fbb$388e7ba0$a9ab72e0$@planet.nl>
 <82566ffd-4b6a-1cf6-5a2b-422bd063ae0f@bell.net>
 <000001d6313e$313af890$93b0e9b0$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <bfbc5e38-9f15-e5d1-747a-95114f5fd844@bell.net>

Hans,

You have to be darn quick as well as having a strong arm and size 
reducing spray.??? Must admit I don't catch as many as I used to as they 
are probably wary of me now!

Good old 747s
Barrie

On 5/23/2020 4:10 PM, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
>
> Wow Barrie,
>
> Tell me more, tell me more, how to catch a 747 with a piece of mesh stuff!
>
> When you teach me, I?ll immediately will try it out at Amsterdam Airport!
>
> Despite KLM has dumped all of their 747 passenger fleet, there still 
> are some cargo planes left.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
> *Van:*Barrie Robinson [mailto:barrob at bell.net]
> *Verzonden:* vrijdag 22 mei 2020 16:26
> *Aan:* Hans Duinhoven
> *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] Grill
>
> Hello folks,
>
> I used to make stainless mesh grille things and I have one on my MGB 
> GT V8.?? Maybe I should make them again !!!??? It catches all those 
> big things like oak and sycamore leaves, pigeons, bats, perambulators 
> and the terror of them all - 747s !!!
>
> On 5/21/2020 6:00 PM, Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote:
>
>     I have added a small stainless steel mesh under this grill. It is
>     an aftermarket item, but it is worthwhile to have it.
>
>     Reason is, that with the original grill only, pretty large things
>     can fall into the space under the grill like leaves falling from
>     the trees.
>
>     That all will clog the drain hole and when that happens, you?ll
>     get wet feet!
>
>     Cheers,
>
>     Hans
>
>     71 BGT
>
>     *Van:*Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] *Namens *Michael
>     MacLean via Mgs
>     *Verzonden:* dinsdag 19 mei 2020 1:09
>     *Aan:* MGs
>     *Onderwerp:* [Mgs] Grill
>
>     Has anyone installed the small grill in front of the windshield
>     recently?? I was surprised to find mine was just dropped into
>     position with nothing to retain the pins.? I bought the little
>     plastic being sleeves that you slip over the pins to retain the
>     grill that Moss sells, but for the life of me I can't figure out
>     how to put them on.? Kind of tough from above.? I am beginning to
>     understand why I found the grill that way.
>
>     Mike MacLean
>
>     1969 MGB GT
>
>     60 Bugeye
>
>     1956 Austin Healey 100 LeMans
>
>     Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android
>     <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>
>     <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
>     	
>
>     Virusvrij. www.avast.com
>     <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>
>
>
>
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Mgs at autox.team.net  <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>
>     Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>     Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
>     Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>     Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net
>

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From mvheim at sonic.net  Sat May 23 17:07:02 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 16:07:02 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <6E8D517D90614AA8B76D7F9BAF005BB1@paul>
References: <1M1psI-1ja28R39GS-002K8D@mail.gmx.com>
 <421D6929-FC65-4CBE-8AE9-11CF7466D6A2@sonic.net>
 <6E8D517D90614AA8B76D7F9BAF005BB1@paul>
Message-ID: <BCE6676C-6A17-4D23-B95C-94EBAEC811B6@sonic.net>

They need to be tight enough not to leak while someone is pumping the brakes. You can?t bleed with a socket on it. The problem is that the crappy bleed screws that are inappropriately metric because they are made in Asia also have crappy threads, a crappy seat, and are made of crappy metal. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 23, 2020, at 12:57 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> On both of mine the clutch and caliper nipples are the same hex size.
>  
> Wheel cylinders are quite a bit smaller so not surprising the bleed nipples are smaller.
>  
> How tight do you need them to be?  If they round-off it's the screw that is the problem.  Use a socket for initial loosening and final tightening, in my 3/8" drive socket set they go down to 4mm and 3/16".
>  
> PaulH.
>  
>  
> ----- Original Message -----
> 
> I can see why ? it is a uselessly tiny size. Appropriate for fine instruments, perhaps, but seriously undersized for anything that needs actual tightening, like a bleed screw.  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Sat May 23 19:25:10 2020
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 01:25:10 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <BCE6676C-6A17-4D23-B95C-94EBAEC811B6@sonic.net>
References: <1M1psI-1ja28R39GS-002K8D@mail.gmx.com>
 <421D6929-FC65-4CBE-8AE9-11CF7466D6A2@sonic.net>
 <6E8D517D90614AA8B76D7F9BAF005BB1@paul>
 <BCE6676C-6A17-4D23-B95C-94EBAEC811B6@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <6F3596F3-D2F4-41EB-950A-32925C2AA49B@ur.rochester.edu>

When they first came out I tried a set, I threw them away for all the same reasons.

paul o


On May 23, 2020, at 7:07 PM, Max Heim via Mgs <Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:

They need to be tight enough not to leak while someone is pumping the brakes. You can?t bleed with a socket on it. The problem is that the crappy bleed screws that are inappropriately metric because they are made in Asia also have crappy threads, a crappy seat, and are made of crappy metal.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 23, 2020, at 12:57 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:

On both of mine the clutch and caliper nipples are the same hex size.

Wheel cylinders are quite a bit smaller so not surprising the bleed nipples are smaller.

How tight do you need them to be?  If they round-off it's the screw that is the problem.  Use a socket for initial loosening and final tightening, in my 3/8" drive socket set they go down to 4mm and 3/16".

PaulH.


----- Original Message -----

I can see why ? it is a uselessly tiny size. Appropriate for fine instruments, perhaps, but seriously undersized for anything that needs actual tightening, like a bleed screw.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
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Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=NbcLJLK5oUGSMSU-lls0nOfhoaSzDLlfzqU4rRvn4FI&e=
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Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
   585-275-5226





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From richard.ewald at gmail.com  Sat May 23 20:13:27 2020
From: richard.ewald at gmail.com (Richard Ewald)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 19:13:27 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <6F3596F3-D2F4-41EB-950A-32925C2AA49B@ur.rochester.edu>
References: <6F3596F3-D2F4-41EB-950A-32925C2AA49B@ur.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <CCB59DEC-49DC-4088-99F0-44C2AADFD992@gmail.com>

You can get result by putting together you own bleeder.  Plus you won?t make a mess. 
I got this idea from a book on auto repair back in the 1960s and I?ve been using it ever since both at home and in a shop professionally. 
You will need a Clear 20oz soda bottle, 18? or so of rubber hose that fits snugly on the bleed screw, a couple feet of mechanics wire or a zip tie and a coat hanger. 
Secure the end of the hose just off the bottom of the bottle. Use the mechanics wire or pop a couple of holes for the zip tie. Make sure not to pinch off the hose. Use the rest of the wire or hanger to fashion a hook. 
Hang the bottle somewhere under the car. Run the hose to the bleeder. This is the important part, the hose has to go up above the level of the bleed screw before it goes into the bottle. 
Crack the bleed screw just enough to allow the fluid to come out. Pump the brakes and top up as needed. When you see clear fluid with no bubbles close the bleed screw and you are done. 
Rick

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 23, 2020, at 6:25 PM, Osborne, Paul via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ? When they first came out I tried a set, I threw them away for all the same reasons. 
> 
> paul o
> 
> 
>> On May 23, 2020, at 7:07 PM, Max Heim via Mgs <Mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> They need to be tight enough not to leak while someone is pumping the brakes. You can?t bleed with a socket on it. The problem is that the crappy bleed screws that are inappropriately metric because they are made in Asia also have crappy threads, a crappy seat, and are made of crappy metal. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 23, 2020, at 12:57 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> On both of mine the clutch and caliper nipples are the same hex size.
>>>  
>>> Wheel cylinders are quite a bit smaller so not surprising the bleed nipples are smaller.
>>>  
>>> How tight do you need them to be?  If they round-off it's the screw that is the problem.  Use a socket for initial loosening and final tightening, in my 3/8" drive socket set they go down to 4mm and 3/16".
>>>  
>>> PaulH.
>>>  
>>>  
>>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>> 
>>> I can see why ? it is a uselessly tiny size. Appropriate for fine instruments, perhaps, but seriously undersized for anything that needs actual tightening, like a bleed screw. 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=NbcLJLK5oUGSMSU-lls0nOfhoaSzDLlfzqU4rRvn4FI&e= 
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=4ajl8uA5q3ayIesUN0JNZ2KHSVFHJSJSGYxsYgOh72M&e=  https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=qZWrWwL9nLRXuNlW-ypaw7uK6tfAl4ZDOcDhG5XDZAE&e= 
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=TCu0pSYmQslAAIXb88zvcFYqRJbX7KHG2f7Y2mmW97s&e=
> 
>> Paul Osborne
>> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
>> University of Rochester 
>> 201 Hopeman Building RC
>> Rochester NY 14627
>> 
>    585-275-5226
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
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From dave at ranteer.com  Sat May 23 20:33:23 2020
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 21:33:23 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <6F3596F3-D2F4-41EB-950A-32925C2AA49B@ur.rochester.edu>
References: <1M1psI-1ja28R39GS-002K8D@mail.gmx.com>
 <421D6929-FC65-4CBE-8AE9-11CF7466D6A2@sonic.net>
 <6E8D517D90614AA8B76D7F9BAF005BB1@paul>
 <BCE6676C-6A17-4D23-B95C-94EBAEC811B6@sonic.net>
 <6F3596F3-D2F4-41EB-950A-32925C2AA49B@ur.rochester.edu>
Message-ID: <008001d63173$b2d0b270$18721750$@ranteer.com>

Funny.  I?ve been using them for years on a dozen different cars and always had good results.

 

From: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Osborne, Paul via Mgs
Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 8:25 PM
To: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders

 

When they first came out I tried a set, I threw them away for all the same reasons.  

 

paul o

 

 

On May 23, 2020, at 7:07 PM, Max Heim via Mgs <Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net> > wrote:

 

They need to be tight enough not to leak while someone is pumping the brakes. You can?t bleed with a socket on it. The problem is that the crappy bleed screws that are inappropriately metric because they are made in Asia also have crappy threads, a crappy seat, and are made of crappy metal. 



Sent from my iPhone


On May 23, 2020, at 12:57 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net> > wrote:

On both of mine the clutch and caliper nipples are the same hex size.

 

Wheel cylinders are quite a bit smaller so not surprising the bleed nipples are smaller.

 

How tight do you need them to be?  If they round-off it's the screw that is the problem.  Use a socket for initial loosening and final tightening, in my 3/8" drive socket set they go down to 4mm and 3/16".

 

PaulH.

 

 

----- Original Message ----- 

 

I can see why ? it is a uselessly tiny size. Appropriate for fine instruments, perhaps, but seriously undersized for anything that needs actual tightening, like a bleed screw. 

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net> 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwMFaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=NbcLJLK5oUGSMSU-lls0nOfhoaSzDLlfzqU4rRvn4FI&e=> 
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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_______________________________________________

 <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net> Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate:  <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=NbcLJLK5oUGSMSU-lls0nOfhoaSzDLlfzqU4rRvn4FI&e=> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=NbcLJLK5oUGSMSU-lls0nOfhoaSzDLlfzqU4rRvn4FI&e= 
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Unsubscribe:  <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=TCu0pSYmQslAAIXb88zvcFYqRJbX7KHG2f7Y2mmW97s&e=> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=TCu0pSYmQslAAIXb88zvcFYqRJbX7KHG2f7Y2mmW97s&e=

 

Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester 
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627

   585-275-5226

 

 

 

 

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From mvheim at sonic.net  Sat May 23 20:57:40 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 19:57:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <008001d63173$b2d0b270$18721750$@ranteer.com>
References: <1M1psI-1ja28R39GS-002K8D@mail.gmx.com>
 <421D6929-FC65-4CBE-8AE9-11CF7466D6A2@sonic.net>
 <6E8D517D90614AA8B76D7F9BAF005BB1@paul>
 <BCE6676C-6A17-4D23-B95C-94EBAEC811B6@sonic.net>
 <6F3596F3-D2F4-41EB-950A-32925C2AA49B@ur.rochester.edu>
 <008001d63173$b2d0b270$18721750$@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <098DD7BC-91FD-4AC8-993E-16F1B622C18D@sonic.net>

Sorry, I think this went sidewise. I wasn?t talking about SPEED bleeders, just stupidly sized bleed screws in general.

--
Max Heim
mvheim at sonic.net



> On May 23, 2020, at 7:33 PM, dave via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> Funny.  I?ve been using them for years on a dozen different cars and always had good results.
>  
> From: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Osborne, Paul via Mgs
> Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 8:25 PM
> To: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
> Cc: mgs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
>  
> When they first came out I tried a set, I threw them away for all the same reasons.  
>  
> paul o
>  
>  
>> On May 23, 2020, at 7:07 PM, Max Heim via Mgs <Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>>  
>> They need to be tight enough not to leak while someone is pumping the brakes. You can?t bleed with a socket on it. The problem is that the crappy bleed screws that are inappropriately metric because they are made in Asia also have crappy threads, a crappy seat, and are made of crappy metal. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On May 23, 2020, at 12:57 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>> wrote:
>> 
>>> On both of mine the clutch and caliper nipples are the same hex size.
>>>  
>>> Wheel cylinders are quite a bit smaller so not surprising the bleed nipples are smaller.
>>>  
>>> How tight do you need them to be?  If they round-off it's the screw that is the problem.  Use a socket for initial loosening and final tightening, in my 3/8" drive socket set they go down to 4mm and 3/16".
>>>  
>>> PaulH.
>>>  
>>>  
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>>>>  
>>>> I can see why ? it is a uselessly tiny size. Appropriate for fine instruments, perhaps, but seriously undersized for anything that needs actual tightening, like a bleed screw. 
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> 
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwMFaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=NbcLJLK5oUGSMSU-lls0nOfhoaSzDLlfzqU4rRvn4FI&e=>
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>> 
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwMFaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=4ajl8uA5q3ayIesUN0JNZ2KHSVFHJSJSGYxsYgOh72M&e=> http://autox.team.net/archive <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwMFaQ&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=qZWrWwL9nLRXuNlW-ypaw7uK6tfAl4ZDOcDhG5XDZAE&e=>
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>> 
>> Unsubscribe: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=TCu0pSYmQslAAIXb88zvcFYqRJbX7KHG2f7Y2mmW97s&e= <https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_mailman_options_mgs_paul-40ece.rochester.edu&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=ysLFyqzHakeNZYJhWf9gcyqHGtsTgkd1Zj7xqPr4nes&s=TCu0pSYmQslAAIXb88zvcFYqRJbX7KHG2f7Y2mmW97s&e=>
>  
>> Paul Osborne
>> Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
>> University of Rochester 
>> 201 Hopeman Building RC
>> Rochester NY 14627
>> 
>    585-275-5226
>  
>  
>  
> 
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
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From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Sun May 24 03:22:44 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 11:22:44 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <BCE6676C-6A17-4D23-B95C-94EBAEC811B6@sonic.net>
References: <1M1psI-1ja28R39GS-002K8D@mail.gmx.com>
 <421D6929-FC65-4CBE-8AE9-11CF7466D6A2@sonic.net>
 <6E8D517D90614AA8B76D7F9BAF005BB1@paul>
 <BCE6676C-6A17-4D23-B95C-94EBAEC811B6@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <003601d631ac$e1bd16d0$a5374470$@planet.nl>

I like this! The current corona crisis made us aware, that low prices are not the holy grail!

 

Cheers!

Hans

 

Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Max Heim via Mgs
Verzonden: zondag 24 mei 2020 1:07
Aan: PaulHunt73; mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders

 

They need to be tight enough not to leak while someone is pumping the brakes. You can?t bleed with a socket on it. The problem is that the crappy bleed screws that are inappropriately metric because they are made in Asia also have crappy threads, a crappy seat, and are made of crappy metal. 

Sent from my iPhone


On May 23, 2020, at 12:57 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:

On both of mine the clutch and caliper nipples are the same hex size.

 

Wheel cylinders are quite a bit smaller so not surprising the bleed nipples are smaller.

 

How tight do you need them to be?  If they round-off it's the screw that is the problem.  Use a socket for initial loosening and final tightening, in my 3/8" drive socket set they go down to 4mm and 3/16".

 

PaulH.

 

 

----- Original Message ----- 

 

I can see why ? it is a uselessly tiny size. Appropriate for fine instruments, perhaps, but seriously undersized for anything that needs actual tightening, like a bleed screw. 

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Sun May 24 03:53:03 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 10:53:03 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
References: <1M1psI-1ja28R39GS-002K8D@mail.gmx.com>
 <421D6929-FC65-4CBE-8AE9-11CF7466D6A2@sonic.net>
 <6E8D517D90614AA8B76D7F9BAF005BB1@paul>
 <BCE6676C-6A17-4D23-B95C-94EBAEC811B6@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <C914FE0D5F1543C3BBB1BB632131802D@paul>

I said "Use a socket for initial loosening and final tightening"

I really didn't think I also needed to say to use a spanner to finally open and initially close them while the bleed tube is fitted.

  ----- Original Message ----- 


  ... You can?t bleed with a socket on it. ...
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Sun May 24 11:47:55 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 10:47:55 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <C914FE0D5F1543C3BBB1BB632131802D@paul>
References: <C914FE0D5F1543C3BBB1BB632131802D@paul>
Message-ID: <E4717E7C-4D79-4A94-A568-0E8A11651604@sonic.net>


Yes, I knew what you meant. It is not convenient to constantly change tools when one is dealing with a nasty corrosive liquid, rubber hoses and glass jars. Every time you disengage the hose, all the fluid escapes, requiring that many more pumps the next time. One cannot always know when the circuit has been adequately bled until one tightens every bleeder and tests the pedal. One frequently has to repeat the process at each wheel. This is why a tiny, fragile hex on the bleeder is a particular annoyance, and one that should be entirely unnecessary.



Sent from my iPad

> On May 24, 2020, at 3:05 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> ?
> I said "Use a socket for initial loosening and final tightening"
>  
> I really didn't think I also needed to say to use a spanner to finally open and initially close them while the bleed tube is fitted.
>  
> ----- Original Message -----
> 
> ... You can?t bleed with a socket on it. ...
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
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From ejrussell at mebtel.net  Sun May 24 12:20:56 2020
From: ejrussell at mebtel.net (Eric Russell)
Date: Sun, 24 May 2020 14:20:56 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Grill
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1590343201.13842.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1590343201.13842.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <60c21e53-7c0f-24b7-e642-f60c80db25b6@mebtel.net>

The way I read it I assumed he meant that since installing mesh, there 
hasn't been any 747's clogging up his MGB.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
> Tell me more, tell me more, how to catch a 747 with a piece of mesh stuff!
>
>
>
> I used to make stainless mesh grille things and I have one on my MGB GT V8.   Maybe I should make them again !!!    It catches all those big things like oak and sycamore leaves, pigeons, bats, perambulators and the terror of them all - 747s !!!

From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon May 25 00:53:13 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 08:53:13 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] FW:  Grill
References: <mailman.3.1590343201.13842.mgs@autox.team.net>
 <60c21e53-7c0f-24b7-e642-f60c80db25b6@mebtel.net> 
Message-ID: <002d01d63261$28f5c420$7ae14c60$@planet.nl>

Thanks for the explaining Eric!
Foreigners sometimes have sometimes trouble following the native English
speakers / writers.
Living near Amsterdam Airport the trick appeared to be a nice solution,
though hard to believe :).
Hope to fix the RH rear shock absorber today. As the link to the leaf spring
is stuck, I'm going to a friendly garage to ask them to make it lose.
Replacement looked so easy and all went well except the link connection to
the absorber arm...

Cheers,
Hans
71 BGT

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens Eric Russell via Mgs
Verzonden: zondag 24 mei 2020 20:21
Aan: mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] Grill

The way I read it I assumed he meant that since installing mesh, there 
hasn't been any 747's clogging up his MGB.

Eric Russell
Mebane, NC
> Tell me more, tell me more, how to catch a 747 with a piece of mesh stuff!
>
>
>
> I used to make stainless mesh grille things and I have one on my MGB GT
V8.   Maybe I should make them again !!!    It catches all those big things
like oak and sycamore leaves, pigeons, bats, perambulators and the terror of
them all - 747s !!!
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl


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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Mon May 25 01:24:41 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 08:24:41 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] FW:  Grill
References: <mailman.3.1590343201.13842.mgs@autox.team.net>
 <60c21e53-7c0f-24b7-e642-f60c80db25b6@mebtel.net>
 <002d01d63261$28f5c420$7ae14c60$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <80444BD2CD254575950D3B8B0B5ECF76@paul>

If we are talking about the same problem - the lower nut seized to the pin, 
in the past I've had to remove the rear damper, drop-link and bottom plate 
as a unit and attack it on the bench by carefully cutting through the nut 
and using a chisel to open it up.  Without that the pin was just turning in 
the rubber bushing, which I feared would destroy it.  If they propose using 
heat, bear that in mind.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Hope to fix the RH rear shock absorber today. As the link to the leaf 
> spring
> is stuck, I'm going to a friendly garage to ask them to make it lose.
> Replacement looked so easy and all went well except the link connection to
> the absorber arm...


From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon May 25 04:22:02 2020
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (Hans Duinhoven)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 12:22:02 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] FW:  Grill
In-Reply-To: <80444BD2CD254575950D3B8B0B5ECF76@paul>
References: <mailman.3.1590343201.13842.mgs@autox.team.net>
 <60c21e53-7c0f-24b7-e642-f60c80db25b6@mebtel.net>
 <002d01d63261$28f5c420$7ae14c60$@planet.nl>
 <80444BD2CD254575950D3B8B0B5ECF76@paul>
Message-ID: <000301d6327e$54e6faa0$feb4efe0$@planet.nl>

Thanks for the advice Paul.

So I went to my friendly garage.
In a minute the guy had  the bolt lose. 
The bolt which is part of the connecting rod between the damper arm and the
leaf spring is partly equipped with a rubber silent block.
So heating is no option as it will damage the rubber.
What my friend did was hitting with a heavy hammer on the arm of the shock
absorber, where the bolt fits in.
The bolt is a bit tapered, so when hammering and the nut is lose, the bolt
becomes lose.
In Dutch we call this scaring.
So now I can clean the rest and have the new shock absorber mounted.

Cheers,
Hans

-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] Namens PaulHunt73 via Mgs
Verzonden: maandag 25 mei 2020 9:25
Aan: Hans Duinhoven; mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Mgs] FW: Grill

If we are talking about the same problem - the lower nut seized to the pin, 
in the past I've had to remove the rear damper, drop-link and bottom plate 
as a unit and attack it on the bench by carefully cutting through the nut 
and using a chisel to open it up.  Without that the pin was just turning in 
the rubber bushing, which I feared would destroy it.  If they propose using 
heat, bear that in mind.

PaulH.

----- Original Message ----- 
> Hope to fix the RH rear shock absorber today. As the link to the leaf 
> spring
> is stuck, I'm going to a friendly garage to ask them to make it lose.
> Replacement looked so easy and all went well except the link connection to
> the absorber arm...

_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/h.duinhoven at planet.nl


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From dan.dibiase at gmail.com  Mon May 25 08:15:28 2020
From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2020 10:15:28 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <E4717E7C-4D79-4A94-A568-0E8A11651604@sonic.net>
References: <C914FE0D5F1543C3BBB1BB632131802D@paul>
 <E4717E7C-4D79-4A94-A568-0E8A11651604@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <CABxEc+=NnF16eqm83yf5sN129R_JiYiBBzSeHbXFECh-2iHSvQ@mail.gmail.com>

Happy Memorial Day to all US listers......

I'm curious - I assume the same brake bleeding process has to be done for
more modern cars - has there really been no technology upgrade in this area
since the '60's?

Dan D
Central NJ USA
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/


On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 1:57 PM Max Heim via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
> Yes, I knew what you meant. It is not convenient to constantly change
> tools when one is dealing with a nasty corrosive liquid, rubber hoses and
> glass jars. Every time you disengage the hose, all the fluid escapes,
> requiring that many more pumps the next time. One cannot always know when
> the circuit has been adequately bled until one tightens every bleeder and
> tests the pedal. One frequently has to repeat the process at each wheel.
> This is why a tiny, fragile hex on the bleeder is a particular annoyance,
> and one that should be entirely unnecessary.
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 24, 2020, at 3:05 AM, PaulHunt73 via Mgs <mgs at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> ?
> I said "Use a socket for initial loosening and final tightening"
>
> I really didn't think I also needed to say to use a spanner to finally
> open and initially close them while the bleed tube is fitted.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> ... You can?t bleed with a socket on it. ...
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Tue May 26 01:19:02 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 08:19:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
References: <C914FE0D5F1543C3BBB1BB632131802D@paul>
 <E4717E7C-4D79-4A94-A568-0E8A11651604@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <3DDAFF99CA5F459D9CCB0595C7AF3209@paul>

I really don't understand the problem, I must be missing something.  One fits the hose, opens the bleeder, bleeds, closes the bleeder, and removes the tube.  The only fluid that escapes is that which has been pushed out of the system and will be discarded.  What tool you use to open and close the bleeder has no effect on that.

Using whatever tool works best for the job in hand is just common-sense to me.  I'll frequently use a socket to crack nuts and bolts in many places on the car for its strength, then switch to a ratchet ring spanner to remove them for its speed.

The only repeat bleeding I have to do is at the calipers using EeziBleed for low-pressure bleeding, then high-pressure bleeding with someone pressing down hard on the pedal while I rapidly open and shut each caliper nipple in turn which always blasts a bit more air out.

And no, modern cars are no different if my 'modern' 2004 ZS180 is anything to go by.

  ----- Original Message ----- 



  Yes, I knew what you meant. It is not convenient to constantly change tools when one is dealing with a nasty corrosive liquid, rubber hoses and glass jars. Every time you disengage the hose, all the fluid escapes, requiring that many more pumps the next time.
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From paul at ece.rochester.edu  Tue May 26 04:57:40 2020
From: paul at ece.rochester.edu (Osborne, Paul)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 10:57:40 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <3DDAFF99CA5F459D9CCB0595C7AF3209@paul>
References: <C914FE0D5F1543C3BBB1BB632131802D@paul>
 <E4717E7C-4D79-4A94-A568-0E8A11651604@sonic.net>
 <3DDAFF99CA5F459D9CCB0595C7AF3209@paul>
Message-ID: <F72A0F69-E10E-4856-AEAA-856213D0D4D3@ur.rochester.edu>

Yes Paul I agree. What is all the fuss about. This is not rocket science. The process has been around for along time and it works.

paul o

On May 26, 2020, at 3:19 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com<mailto:paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>> wrote:

I really don't understand the problem, I must be missing something.  One fits the hose, opens the bleeder, bleeds, closes the bleeder, and removes the tube.  The only fluid that escapes is that which has been pushed out of the system and will be discarded.  What tool you use to open and close the bleeder has no effect on that.

Using whatever tool works best for the job in hand is just common-sense to me.  I'll frequently use a socket to crack nuts and bolts in many places on the car for its strength, then switch to a ratchet ring spanner to remove them for its speed.

The only repeat bleeding I have to do is at the calipers using EeziBleed for low-pressure bleeding, then high-pressure bleeding with someone pressing down hard on the pedal while I rapidly open and shut each caliper nipple in turn which always blasts a bit more air out.

And no, modern cars are no different if my 'modern' 2004 ZS180 is anything to go by.

----- Original Message -----


Yes, I knew what you meant. It is not convenient to constantly change tools when one is dealing with a nasty corrosive liquid, rubber hoses and glass jars. Every time you disengage the hose, all the fluid escapes, requiring that many more pumps the next time.
_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
Donate: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_donate.html&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=iHkPVYEX6dkU5EyQjrh4VxWo7GxkT8VMMYUCmr-woGo&s=VvmKjt3xjPxLxeSvY42DHBee0uE_GR50V9TdXzsGKvQ&e=
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__www.team.net_pipermail_mgs&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=iHkPVYEX6dkU5EyQjrh4VxWo7GxkT8VMMYUCmr-woGo&s=6VC5TroEdCfV6r9X6fUWcz9clSTbVQtprpldjrDUlzk&e=  https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=http-3A__autox.team.net_archive&d=DwICAg&c=kbmfwr1Yojg42sGEpaQh5ofMHBeTl9EI2eaqQZhHbOU&r=j_uK0-rtrtcKZ8O0aGq-Y5ZUDfHjCD_Cv57WMn_czag&m=iHkPVYEX6dkU5EyQjrh4VxWo7GxkT8VMMYUCmr-woGo&s=AOs8FcUoYE9r8enyxeEG-CrOZaw44qH8W006F9wl4zI&e=

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Paul Osborne
Department of Electrical and Computer Eng
University of Rochester
201 Hopeman Building RC
Rochester NY 14627
   585-275-5226





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From rolindsay at yahoo.com  Tue May 26 06:01:26 2020
From: rolindsay at yahoo.com (rolindsay at yahoo.com)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 07:01:26 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <F72A0F69-E10E-4856-AEAA-856213D0D4D3@ur.rochester.edu>
References: <96b4b635-4b97-4256-a4b6-c8c9687f596b.ref@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <96b4b635-4b97-4256-a4b6-c8c9687f596b@email.android.com>

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From mvheim at sonic.net  Tue May 26 09:54:51 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 08:54:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Speed Bleeders
In-Reply-To: <3DDAFF99CA5F459D9CCB0595C7AF3209@paul>
References: <C914FE0D5F1543C3BBB1BB632131802D@paul>
 <E4717E7C-4D79-4A94-A568-0E8A11651604@sonic.net>
 <3DDAFF99CA5F459D9CCB0595C7AF3209@paul>
Message-ID: <DC72B743-4D2A-4413-885B-FD001F424B2F@sonic.net>

All I am saying is, just try it with one of those crappy 7mm bleed screws and you will be complaining loudly yourself.


--
Max Heim
mvheim at sonic.net



> On May 26, 2020, at 12:19 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com> wrote:
> 
> I really don't understand the problem, I must be missing something.  One fits the hose, opens the bleeder, bleeds, closes the bleeder, and removes the tube.  The only fluid that escapes is that which has been pushed out of the system and will be discarded.  What tool you use to open and close the bleeder has no effect on that.
>  
> Using whatever tool works best for the job in hand is just common-sense to me.  I'll frequently use a socket to crack nuts and bolts in many places on the car for its strength, then switch to a ratchet ring spanner to remove them for its speed.
>  
> The only repeat bleeding I have to do is at the calipers using EeziBleed for low-pressure bleeding, then high-pressure bleeding with someone pressing down hard on the pedal while I rapidly open and shut each caliper nipple in turn which always blasts a bit more air out.
>  
> And no, modern cars are no different if my 'modern' 2004 ZS180 is anything to go by.
>  
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> 
>> 
>> Yes, I knew what you meant. It is not convenient to constantly change tools when one is dealing with a nasty corrosive liquid, rubber hoses and glass jars. Every time you disengage the hose, all the fluid escapes, requiring that many more pumps the next time.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

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From britfan1 at epix.net  Thu May 28 19:24:37 2020
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 21:24:37 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB - flasher location
Message-ID: <mailman.157.1590715484.2961.mgs@autox.team.net>

A friend is having problems with the turn signals on a 1980 B.  He?s replaced the left-hand switch unit (turn signals & horn).  Left-hand signals flash, and 4-ways flash, but the right-hand signals only light steadily.  He?s located the one flasher unit, but can hear another one clicking somewhere and can?t locate it --  where should he look?  (The wiring diagram doesn?t help, and the car has been thoroughly hacked up by DPOs.)

Thanks in advance,
Sarah Carr
?71 B/GT in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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From steve at shoyer.com  Thu May 28 19:34:13 2020
From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 21:34:13 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB - flasher location
In-Reply-To: <20200529012453.A29B2A123F@autox.team.net>
References: <20200529012453.A29B2A123F@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <9c446d4b-3b37-dbc9-9b68-45e9f5a1bfed@shoyer.com>

On my car there are two flasher units located behind the glove box, 
mounted next to each other.? One is for the turn signals and the other 
is for the hazard flashers.?? I'm not sure where else someone would 
mount the flasher, but people do lots of inventive things.

--Steve (1980 MGB)

On 5/28/2020 9:24 PM, S.Carr wrote:
>
> A friend is having problems with the turn signals on a 1980 B.? He?s 
> replaced the left-hand switch unit (turn signals & horn).? Left-hand 
> signals flash, and 4-ways flash, but the right-hand signals only light 
> steadily. He?s located the one flasher unit, but can hear another one 
> clicking _somewhere_ and can?t locate it -- ?where should he look?? 
> (The wiring diagram doesn?t help, and the car has been thoroughly 
> hacked up by DPOs.)
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Sarah Carr
>
> ?71 B/GT in PA
>
>


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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From paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com  Fri May 29 01:27:25 2020
From: paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com (PaulHunt73)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 08:27:25 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB - flasher location
References: <20200529012631.26912A134A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <404830BB2D994C3CB87D2895EA07A870@paul>

If the left-hand flashes OK then it's not the flasher unit, there is one flasher unit for the hazards and one for the turn signals.

When one side glows but doesn't flash the problem is in the circuit that side.  The original flasher units needed a certain amount of current to flash properly, and if that current reduces they flash slower or stop. If one bulb fails the other will glow continuously, but that should be obvious by checking both ends.

If both are glowing then either one or both bulbs is too low a wattage or there are bad connections in the circuit.  These need patience to resolve by measuring volt-drops through the circuit, this may help http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/electricstext2.htm#fault2

However if this only started when the turn switch was replaced you should check the connections there first, making sure the two connectors are fully pushed together and none of the pins have been pushed out of the back.

PaulH.
  ----- Original Message ----- 


  A friend is having problems with the turn signals on a 1980 B.  He?s replaced the left-hand switch unit (turn signals & horn).  Left-hand signals flash, and 4-ways flash, but the right-hand signals only light steadily.  He?s located the one flasher unit, but can hear another one clicking somewhere and can?t locate it --  where should he look?
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From barrob at bell.net  Tue May 26 09:09:59 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 11:09:59 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Amazon scam me thinks?
Message-ID: <f5f9be41-abb7-ea08-e747-96a11dc0395a@bell.net>

Ladies & Gentlemen,

This is way off subject, for which I apologise,? but I am one of those 
people who gets up in arms when I encounter a scam by a company that 
should do better.

If you use Amazon you may have taken up their 'Prime' service which you 
have to pay for.? Neat what?? You have to pay for good service !!!?? If 
it fits your bill then that is fine /but just try and cancel it!
/I found we had been charged $7.99 for *years* plus a yearly fee 
although cannot remember joining.?? We rarely use Amazon as "get it now" 
does not attract us and the last purchase was 6 months ago.?? So 
obviously cancellation of Prime was required.? Now we come to Amazon's 
superbly crafted scam. *You cannot cancel.*?? You end up going round and 
round their web pages but no how, no where does it allow you to 
cancel.?? What is so blatantly indicative of their dishonesty is that if 
you do a search on how to cancel Prime you will find a whole raft of 
books written on it. *BOOKS ON HOW TO CANCEL* *!!!*?? UNBELIEVABLE.? And 
guess what??? The books are sold by Amazon.

I just had to blow steam off about this.?? I find the only way is to 
cancel my MasterCard and join up with a different credit card.??? The 
bank bod told me that they can follow me across to a new MasterCard 
-what ????? So it has to be another card.

Much mumbling in the background
Barrie
//
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From dan.dibiase at gmail.com  Fri May 29 08:57:53 2020
From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 10:57:53 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Amazon scam me thinks?
In-Reply-To: <f5f9be41-abb7-ea08-e747-96a11dc0395a@bell.net>
References: <f5f9be41-abb7-ea08-e747-96a11dc0395a@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CABxEc+nCpGREoXdS_U1mzamOiuzJKSB4-hQhuLRrzWT-8qnaTw@mail.gmail.com>

Hmmmmm.... You're saying you tried this and it didn't work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201910380

I'm very happy with Prime. We get an educational discount using my
daughter's .edu email address and watch a lot of stuff on Prime Videos.

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/


On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 10:19 AM Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:

> Ladies & Gentlemen,
>
> This is way off subject, for which I apologise,  but I am one of those
> people who gets up in arms when I encounter a scam by a company that should
> do better.
>
> If you use Amazon you may have taken up their 'Prime' service which you
> have to pay for.  Neat what?  You have to pay for good service !!!   If it
> fits your bill then that is fine
> *but just try and cancel it! *I found we had been charged $7.99 for
> *years* plus a yearly fee although cannot remember joining.   We rarely
> use Amazon as "get it now" does not attract us and the last purchase was 6
> months ago.   So obviously cancellation of Prime was required.  Now we come
> to Amazon's superbly crafted scam.   * You cannot cancel.*   You end up
> going round and round their web pages but no how, no where does it allow
> you to cancel.   What is so blatantly indicative of their dishonesty is
> that if you do a search on how to cancel Prime you will find a whole raft
> of books written on it.   *BOOKS ON HOW TO CANCEL* *!!!*   UNBELIEVABLE.
> And guess what?   The books are sold by Amazon.
>
> I just had to blow steam off about this.   I find the only way is to
> cancel my MasterCard and join up with a different credit card.    The bank
> bod told me that they can follow me across to a new MasterCard -what ????
> So it has to be another card.
>
> Much mumbling in the background
> Barrie
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>
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From britfan1 at epix.net  Fri May 29 09:32:34 2020
From: britfan1 at epix.net (S.Carr)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 11:32:34 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB - flasher location
In-Reply-To: <404830BB2D994C3CB87D2895EA07A870@paul>
References: <20200529012631.26912A134A@autox.team.net>
 <404830BB2D994C3CB87D2895EA07A870@paul>
Message-ID: <mailman.165.1590766365.2961.mgs@autox.team.net>

Unfortunately we don?t know if the signals worked before the new switch was installed because some ham-handed DPO had broken the stalk and some of the plastic internals?.

Sarah C.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: PaulHunt73
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:27 AM
To: MGs; S.Carr
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1980 MGB - flasher location

<However if this only started when the turn switch was replaced you should check the connections there first, making sure the two connectors are fully pushed together and none of the pins have been pushed out of the back.>
?
PaulH.
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From ccrobins at ktc.com  Fri May 29 10:24:16 2020
From: ccrobins at ktc.com (Charley Robinson)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 11:24:16 -0500
Subject: [Mgs] Amazon scam me thinks?
In-Reply-To: <f5f9be41-abb7-ea08-e747-96a11dc0395a@bell.net>
References: <f5f9be41-abb7-ea08-e747-96a11dc0395a@bell.net>
Message-ID: <4330a647-55d8-db3b-7bb9-009147fb0430@ktc.com>

There are other uses for Prime.? Video streaming channel for instance.

CR

From jmartiniii at yahoo.com  Fri May 29 12:35:11 2020
From: jmartiniii at yahoo.com (Joel Martin)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 18:35:11 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Flashers
In-Reply-To: <mailman.2.1590775201.16782.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.2.1590775201.16782.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2023656345.1227210.1590777311204@mail.yahoo.com>

 I own a 1973 MGB so am not sure if this applies to 1980. The turn signal wires run to the Emergency Flasher Switch in the console. Replaced the E Flasher Switch in the console - problem solved with turn signals.

Hope this helps.
Joel Martin
     On Friday, May 29, 2020, 02:27:58 PM EDT, <mgs-request at autox.team.net> wrote:  
 
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Today's Topics:

? 1. 1980 MGB - flasher location (S.Carr)
? 2. Re: 1980 MGB - flasher location (Steve Shoyer)
? 3. Re: 1980 MGB - flasher location (PaulHunt73)
? 4. Amazon scam me thinks? (Barrie Robinson)
? 5. Re: Amazon scam me thinks? (Dan DiBiase)
? 6. Re: 1980 MGB - flasher location (S.Carr)
? 7. Re: Amazon scam me thinks? (Charley Robinson)
<!--#yiv8106667121 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv8106667121 #yiv8106667121 p.yiv8106667121MsoNormal, #yiv8106667121 li.yiv8106667121MsoNormal, #yiv8106667121 div.yiv8106667121MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv8106667121 a:link, #yiv8106667121 span.yiv8106667121MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8106667121 .yiv8106667121MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv8106667121 div.yiv8106667121WordSection1 {}-->
A friend is having problems with the turn signals on a 1980 B.? He?s replaced the left-hand switch unit (turn signals & horn).? Left-hand signals flash, and 4-ways flash, but the right-hand signals only light steadily.? He?s located the one flasher unit, but can hear another one clicking somewhere and can?t locate it -- ?where should he look?? (The wiring diagram doesn?t help, and the car has been thoroughly hacked up by DPOs.)

 ?

Thanks in advance,

Sarah Carr

?71 B/GT in PA

 ?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 ?
  
On my car there are two flasher units located behind the glove box, mounted next to each other.? One is for the turn signals and the other is for the hazard flashers.?? I'm not sure where else someone would mount the flasher, but people do lots of inventive things.
 
 
--Steve (1980 MGB)
 
 On 5/28/2020 9:24 PM, S.Carr wrote:
  
 <!--#yiv8106667121 _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv8106667121 #yiv8106667121 p.yiv8106667121MsoNormal, #yiv8106667121 li.yiv8106667121MsoNormal, #yiv8106667121 div.yiv8106667121MsoNormal {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri", sans-serif;}#yiv8106667121 a:link, #yiv8106667121 span.yiv8106667121MsoHyperlink {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv8106667121 .yiv8106667121MsoChpDefault {} _filtered {}#yiv8106667121 div.yiv8106667121WordSection1 {}-->  
A friend is having problems with the turn signals on a 1980 B.? He?s replaced the left-hand switch unit (turn signals & horn).? Left-hand signals flash, and 4-ways flash, but the right-hand signals only light steadily.? He?s located the one flasher unit, but can hear another one clicking somewhere and can?t locate it -- ?where should he look?? (The wiring diagram doesn?t help, and the car has been thoroughly hacked up by DPOs.)
 
 ?
 
Thanks in advance,
 
Sarah Carr
 
?71 B/GT in PA
 

 
  
 

|  | Virus-free. www.avg.com  |

   _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv8106667121 P.yiv8106667121MsoNormal {MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri", sans-serif;FONT-SIZE:11pt;}#yiv8106667121 LI.yiv8106667121MsoNormal {MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri", sans-serif;FONT-SIZE:11pt;}#yiv8106667121 DIV.yiv8106667121MsoNormal {MARGIN:0in 0in 0pt;FONT-FAMILY:"Calibri", sans-serif;FONT-SIZE:11pt;}#yiv8106667121 A:link {COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;}#yiv8106667121 SPAN.yiv8106667121MsoHyperlink {COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;}#yiv8106667121 .yiv8106667121MsoChpDefault {}#yiv8106667121 DIV.yiv8106667121WordSection1 {}If the left-hand flashes OK then it's not the flasher unit, there is one flasher unit for the hazards and one for the turn signals.?When one side glows but doesn't flash the problem is in the circuit that side.? The original flasher units needed a certain amount of current to flash properly, and if that current?reduces they flash slower?or stop. If one bulb fails the other will glow continuously, but that should be obvious by checking both ends.?If both are glowing then either one or both bulbs is too low a wattage or there are bad connections in the circuit.? These need patience to resolve by measuring volt-drops through the circuit, this may help http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/electricstext2.htm#fault2?However if this only started when the turn switch was replaced you should check the connections there first, making sure the two connectors are fully pushed together and none of the pins have been pushed out of the back.?PaulH.
 ----- Original Message -----  
  
A friend is having problems with the turn signals on a 1980 B.? He?s replaced the left-hand switch unit (turn signals & horn).? Left-hand signals flash, and 4-ways flash, but the right-hand signals only light steadily.? He?s located the one flasher unit, but can hear another one clicking somewhere and can?t locate it -- ?where should he look?

  Ladies & Gentlemen,
 
 This is way off subject, for which I apologise,? but I am one of those people who gets up in arms when I encounter a scam by a company that should do better.
 
 If you use Amazon you may have taken up their 'Prime' service which you have to pay for.? Neat what?? You have to pay for good service !!!?? If it fits your bill then that is fine but just try and cancel it!
 I found we had been charged $7.99 for years plus a yearly fee although cannot remember joining.?? We rarely use Amazon as "get it now" does not attract us and the last purchase was 6 months ago.?? So obviously cancellation of Prime was required.? Now we come to Amazon's superbly crafted scam.??? You cannot cancel.?? You end up going round and round their web pages but no how, no where does it allow you to cancel.?? What is so blatantly indicative of their dishonesty is that if you do a search on how to cancel Prime you will find a whole raft of books written on it.?? BOOKS ON HOW TO CANCEL !!!?? UNBELIEVABLE.? And guess what??? The books are sold by Amazon.
 
 I just had to blow steam off about this.?? I find the only way is to cancel my MasterCard and join up with a different credit card.??? The bank bod told me that they can follow me across to a new MasterCard -what ????? So it has to be another card.
 
 Much mumbling in the background
 Barrie
  Hmmmmm.... You're saying you tried this and it didn't work?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201910380?
I'm very happy with Prime. We get an educational discount using my daughter's .edu email address and watch a lot of stuff on Prime Videos.
Dan D?'76B, '65BCentral NJ USA
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/

On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 10:19 AM Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:

  Ladies & Gentlemen,
 
 This is way off subject, for which I apologise,? but I am one of those people who gets up in arms when I encounter a scam by a company that should do better.
 
 If you use Amazon you may have taken up their 'Prime' service which you have to pay for.? Neat what?? You have to pay for good service !!!?? If it fits your bill then that is fine but just try and cancel it!
 I found we had been charged $7.99 for years plus a yearly fee although cannot remember joining.?? We rarely use Amazon as "get it now" does not attract us and the last purchase was 6 months ago.?? So obviously cancellation of Prime was required.? Now we come to Amazon's superbly crafted scam.??? You cannot cancel.?? You end up going round and round their web pages but no how, no where does it allow you to cancel.?? What is so blatantly indicative of their dishonesty is that if you do a search on how to cancel Prime you will find a whole raft of books written on it.?? BOOKS ON HOW TO CANCEL !!!?? UNBELIEVABLE.? And guess what??? The books are sold by Amazon.
 
 I just had to blow steam off about this.?? I find the only way is to cancel my MasterCard and join up with a different credit card.??? The bank bod told me that they can follow me across to a new MasterCard -what ????? So it has to be another card.
 
 Much mumbling in the background
 Barrie
  _______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com

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Unfortunately we don?t know if the signals worked before the new switch was installed because some ham-handed DPO had broken the stalk and some of the plastic internals?.

 ?

Sarah C.

 ?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 ?

From: PaulHunt73
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:27 AM
To: MGs; S.Carr
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1980 MGB - flasher location

 ?

<However if this only started when the turn switch was replaced you should check the connections there first, making sure the two connectors are fully pushed together and none of the pins have been pushed out of the back.>

?

PaulH.
There are other uses for Prime.? Video streaming channel for instance.

CR


_______________________________________________
Mgs mailing list
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
  
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From dan.dibiase at gmail.com  Fri May 29 13:50:38 2020
From: dan.dibiase at gmail.com (Dan DiBiase)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 15:50:38 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Amazon scam me thinks?
In-Reply-To: <5d6d88b2-0fa0-1ddf-cb5f-1d045553a5e1@bell.net>
References: <f5f9be41-abb7-ea08-e747-96a11dc0395a@bell.net>
 <CABxEc+nCpGREoXdS_U1mzamOiuzJKSB4-hQhuLRrzWT-8qnaTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <5d6d88b2-0fa0-1ddf-cb5f-1d045553a5e1@bell.net>
Message-ID: <CABxEc+mCcYHiF-S7Oi7C-kLiLeLmVb5x3pTOVAwLPUqszyd2Fg@mail.gmail.com>

Call them. Or live chat.

Dan D
Central NJ USA
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/


On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 12:03 PM Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:

> Hello Dan,
>
> The service seems fine *if you buy stuff from them!*  But try and cancel
> the monthly fee if you do not use them !!!!!   You can easily cancel at the
> beginning but once you are a 'member' then cancellation is virtually
> impossible and getting words to any Amazon 'customer service' is not on.
> The fact that there are *several* books written on how to cancel 'Prime'
> is indicative of the difficulty of cancelling.    Just Google 'How do I
> cancel Amazon Prime'.   I did and followed the instructions to the letter
> but it ended up with back to the 'cancel' page
>
> *but would not say "Cancelled" !!!!!!! *It seems that once you are in -
> you can never get out
>
> On 5/29/2020 10:57 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
>
> Hmmmmm.... You're saying you tried this and it didn't work?
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201910380
>
> I'm very happy with Prime. We get an educational discount using my
> daughter's .edu email address and watch a lot of stuff on Prime Videos.
>
> Dan D
> '76B, '65B
> Central NJ USA
> http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/
>
>
> On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 10:19 AM Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:
>
>> Ladies & Gentlemen,
>>
>> This is way off subject, for which I apologise,  but I am one of those
>> people who gets up in arms when I encounter a scam by a company that should
>> do better.
>>
>> If you use Amazon you may have taken up their 'Prime' service which you
>> have to pay for.  Neat what?  You have to pay for good service !!!   If it
>> fits your bill then that is fine
>> *but just try and cancel it! *I found we had been charged $7.99 for
>> *years* plus a yearly fee although cannot remember joining.   We rarely
>> use Amazon as "get it now" does not attract us and the last purchase was 6
>> months ago.   So obviously cancellation of Prime was required.  Now we come
>> to Amazon's superbly crafted scam.   * You cannot cancel.*   You end up
>> going round and round their web pages but no how, no where does it allow
>> you to cancel.   What is so blatantly indicative of their dishonesty is
>> that if you do a search on how to cancel Prime you will find a whole raft
>> of books written on it.   *BOOKS ON HOW TO CANCEL* *!!!*
>> UNBELIEVABLE.  And guess what?   The books are sold by Amazon.
>>
>> I just had to blow steam off about this.   I find the only way is to
>> cancel my MasterCard and join up with a different credit card.    The bank
>> bod told me that they can follow me across to a new MasterCard -what ????
>> So it has to be another card.
>>
>> Much mumbling in the background
>> Barrie
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net
>
>
>
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From steve at shoyer.com  Fri May 29 14:16:18 2020
From: steve at shoyer.com (Steve Shoyer)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 16:16:18 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Amazon scam me thinks?
In-Reply-To: <CABxEc+mCcYHiF-S7Oi7C-kLiLeLmVb5x3pTOVAwLPUqszyd2Fg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <f5f9be41-abb7-ea08-e747-96a11dc0395a@bell.net>
 <CABxEc+nCpGREoXdS_U1mzamOiuzJKSB4-hQhuLRrzWT-8qnaTw@mail.gmail.com>
 <5d6d88b2-0fa0-1ddf-cb5f-1d045553a5e1@bell.net>
 <CABxEc+mCcYHiF-S7Oi7C-kLiLeLmVb5x3pTOVAwLPUqszyd2Fg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <b8f1fb4c-769e-4784-a6f6-f29e868825f1@shoyer.com>

I was able to stop having my Prime membership automatically renew by using live chat. It took a while, but they did it. 

--Steve

On May 29, 2020, 3:53 PM, at 3:53 PM, Dan DiBiase <dan.dibiase at gmail.com> wrote:
>Call them. Or live chat.
>
>Dan D
>Central NJ USA
>http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/
>
>
>On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 12:03 PM Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net>
>wrote:
>
>> Hello Dan,
>>
>> The service seems fine *if you buy stuff from them!*  But try and
>cancel
>> the monthly fee if you do not use them !!!!!   You can easily cancel
>at the
>> beginning but once you are a 'member' then cancellation is virtually
>> impossible and getting words to any Amazon 'customer service' is not
>on.
>> The fact that there are *several* books written on how to cancel
>'Prime'
>> is indicative of the difficulty of cancelling.    Just Google 'How do
>I
>> cancel Amazon Prime'.   I did and followed the instructions to the
>letter
>> but it ended up with back to the 'cancel' page
>>
>> *but would not say "Cancelled" !!!!!!! *It seems that once you are in
>-
>> you can never get out
>>
>> On 5/29/2020 10:57 AM, Dan DiBiase wrote:
>>
>> Hmmmmm.... You're saying you tried this and it didn't work?
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201910380
>>
>> I'm very happy with Prime. We get an educational discount using my
>> daughter's .edu email address and watch a lot of stuff on Prime
>Videos.
>>
>> Dan D
>> '76B, '65B
>> Central NJ USA
>> http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/
>>
>>
>> On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 10:19 AM Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net>
>wrote:
>>
>>> Ladies & Gentlemen,
>>>
>>> This is way off subject, for which I apologise,  but I am one of
>those
>>> people who gets up in arms when I encounter a scam by a company that
>should
>>> do better.
>>>
>>> If you use Amazon you may have taken up their 'Prime' service which
>you
>>> have to pay for.  Neat what?  You have to pay for good service !!!  
>If it
>>> fits your bill then that is fine
>>> *but just try and cancel it! *I found we had been charged $7.99 for
>>> *years* plus a yearly fee although cannot remember joining.   We
>rarely
>>> use Amazon as "get it now" does not attract us and the last purchase
>was 6
>>> months ago.   So obviously cancellation of Prime was required.  Now
>we come
>>> to Amazon's superbly crafted scam.   * You cannot cancel.*   You end
>up
>>> going round and round their web pages but no how, no where does it
>allow
>>> you to cancel.   What is so blatantly indicative of their dishonesty
>is
>>> that if you do a search on how to cancel Prime you will find a whole
>raft
>>> of books written on it.   *BOOKS ON HOW TO CANCEL* *!!!*
>>> UNBELIEVABLE.  And guess what?   The books are sold by Amazon.
>>>
>>> I just had to blow steam off about this.   I find the only way is to
>>> cancel my MasterCard and join up with a different credit card.   
>The bank
>>> bod told me that they can follow me across to a new MasterCard -what
>????
>>> So it has to be another card.
>>>
>>> Much mumbling in the background
>>> Barrie
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs
>http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs
>http://autox.team.net/archive
>>
>> Unsubscribe:
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Mgs at autox.team.net
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs
>http://autox.team.net/archive
>
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/steve at shoyer.com
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From unclstevie at aol.com  Fri May 29 15:40:58 2020
From: unclstevie at aol.com (unclstevie at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 21:40:58 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 156, Issue 24
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3.1590775201.16782.mgs@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3.1590775201.16782.mgs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <315587888.1898514.1590788458839@mail.yahoo.com>

Re Amazon Prime-I am unable to get rid of them also..? I now have 10 lbs of chia seeds which i cannot use. In order t "off" Amazon Prime you must send them a copy your birth certificate or other official document (but they say u can delete any personal info such as all but the last 4 digits of your social.?Uh. I'm not doing that! I didn't give them that info when I signed up. Why now!?My credit card co won't let me out of the contract with amazon until I stoop to their (Amazon's) demand.? I sincerely HATE this.? How about a law case?Steve (MGA coupe and roadster guy)


-----Original Message-----
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, May 29, 2020 2:00 pm
Subject: Mgs Digest, Vol 156, Issue 24

Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
??? mgs at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
??? mgs-request at autox.team.net

You can reach the person managing the list at
??? mgs-owner at autox.team.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..."


Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation? $12.75
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums



Today's Topics:

? 1. 1980 MGB - flasher location (S.Carr)
? 2. Re: 1980 MGB - flasher location (Steve Shoyer)
? 3. Re: 1980 MGB - flasher location (PaulHunt73)
? 4. Amazon scam me thinks? (Barrie Robinson)
? 5. Re: Amazon scam me thinks? (Dan DiBiase)
? 6. Re: 1980 MGB - flasher location (S.Carr)
? 7. Re: Amazon scam me thinks? (Charley Robinson)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 21:24:37 -0400
From: S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
To: MGs <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Mgs] 1980 MGB - flasher location
Message-ID: <mailman.4.1590775201.16782.mgs at autox.team.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

A friend is having problems with the turn signals on a 1980 B.? He?s replaced the left-hand switch unit (turn signals & horn).? Left-hand signals flash, and 4-ways flash, but the right-hand signals only light steadily.? He?s located the one flasher unit, but can hear another one clicking somewhere and can?t locate it --? where should he look?? (The wiring diagram doesn?t help, and the car has been thoroughly hacked up by DPOs.)

Thanks in advance,
Sarah Carr
?71 B/GT in PA

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 28 May 2020 21:34:13 -0400
From: Steve Shoyer <steve at shoyer.com>
To: "S.Carr" <britfan1 at epix.net>, MGs <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1980 MGB - flasher location
Message-ID: <9c446d4b-3b37-dbc9-9b68-45e9f5a1bfed at shoyer.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

On my car there are two flasher units located behind the glove box, 
mounted next to each other.? One is for the turn signals and the other 
is for the hazard flashers.?? I'm not sure where else someone would 
mount the flasher, but people do lots of inventive things.

--Steve (1980 MGB)

On 5/28/2020 9:24 PM, S.Carr wrote:
>
> A friend is having problems with the turn signals on a 1980 B.? He?s 
> replaced the left-hand switch unit (turn signals & horn).? Left-hand 
> signals flash, and 4-ways flash, but the right-hand signals only light 
> steadily. He?s located the one flasher unit, but can hear another one 
> clicking _somewhere_ and can?t locate it -- ?where should he look?? 
> (The wiring diagram doesn?t help, and the car has been thoroughly 
> hacked up by DPOs.)
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Sarah Carr
>
> ?71 B/GT in PA
>
>


-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 08:27:25 +0100
From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>
To: "MGs" <mgs at autox.team.net>,??? "S.Carr" <britfan1 at epix.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1980 MGB - flasher location
Message-ID: <404830BB2D994C3CB87D2895EA07A870 at paul>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

If the left-hand flashes OK then it's not the flasher unit, there is one flasher unit for the hazards and one for the turn signals.

When one side glows but doesn't flash the problem is in the circuit that side.? The original flasher units needed a certain amount of current to flash properly, and if that current reduces they flash slower or stop. If one bulb fails the other will glow continuously, but that should be obvious by checking both ends.

If both are glowing then either one or both bulbs is too low a wattage or there are bad connections in the circuit.? These need patience to resolve by measuring volt-drops through the circuit, this may help http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/electricstext2.htm#fault2

However if this only started when the turn switch was replaced you should check the connections there first, making sure the two connectors are fully pushed together and none of the pins have been pushed out of the back.

PaulH.
? ----- Original Message ----- 


? A friend is having problems with the turn signals on a 1980 B.? He?s replaced the left-hand switch unit (turn signals & horn).? Left-hand signals flash, and 4-ways flash, but the right-hand signals only light steadily.? He?s located the one flasher unit, but can hear another one clicking somewhere and can?t locate it --? where should he look?
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 26 May 2020 11:09:59 -0400
From: Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net>
To: undisclosed-recipients: ;
Subject: [Mgs] Amazon scam me thinks?
Message-ID: <f5f9be41-abb7-ea08-e747-96a11dc0395a at bell.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

Ladies & Gentlemen,

This is way off subject, for which I apologise,? but I am one of those 
people who gets up in arms when I encounter a scam by a company that 
should do better.

If you use Amazon you may have taken up their 'Prime' service which you 
have to pay for.? Neat what?? You have to pay for good service !!!?? If 
it fits your bill then that is fine /but just try and cancel it!
/I found we had been charged $7.99 for *years* plus a yearly fee 
although cannot remember joining.?? We rarely use Amazon as "get it now" 
does not attract us and the last purchase was 6 months ago.?? So 
obviously cancellation of Prime was required.? Now we come to Amazon's 
superbly crafted scam. *You cannot cancel.*?? You end up going round and 
round their web pages but no how, no where does it allow you to 
cancel.?? What is so blatantly indicative of their dishonesty is that if 
you do a search on how to cancel Prime you will find a whole raft of 
books written on it. *BOOKS ON HOW TO CANCEL* *!!!*?? UNBELIEVABLE.? And 
guess what??? The books are sold by Amazon.

I just had to blow steam off about this.?? I find the only way is to 
cancel my MasterCard and join up with a different credit card.??? The 
bank bod told me that they can follow me across to a new MasterCard 
-what ????? So it has to be another card.

Much mumbling in the background
Barrie
//
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 10:57:53 -0400
From: Dan DiBiase <dan.dibiase at gmail.com>
To: mglist <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Amazon scam me thinks?
Message-ID:
??? <CABxEc+nCpGREoXdS_U1mzamOiuzJKSB4-hQhuLRrzWT-8qnaTw at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hmmmmm.... You're saying you tried this and it didn't work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201910380

I'm very happy with Prime. We get an educational discount using my
daughter's .edu email address and watch a lot of stuff on Prime Videos.

Dan D
'76B, '65B
Central NJ USA
http://dandibiase.cbintouch.com/


On Fri, May 29, 2020 at 10:19 AM Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net> wrote:

> Ladies & Gentlemen,
>
> This is way off subject, for which I apologise,? but I am one of those
> people who gets up in arms when I encounter a scam by a company that should
> do better.
>
> If you use Amazon you may have taken up their 'Prime' service which you
> have to pay for.? Neat what?? You have to pay for good service !!!? If it
> fits your bill then that is fine
> *but just try and cancel it! *I found we had been charged $7.99 for
> *years* plus a yearly fee although cannot remember joining.? We rarely
> use Amazon as "get it now" does not attract us and the last purchase was 6
> months ago.? So obviously cancellation of Prime was required.? Now we come
> to Amazon's superbly crafted scam.? * You cannot cancel.*? You end up
> going round and round their web pages but no how, no where does it allow
> you to cancel.? What is so blatantly indicative of their dishonesty is
> that if you do a search on how to cancel Prime you will find a whole raft
> of books written on it.? *BOOKS ON HOW TO CANCEL* *!!!*? UNBELIEVABLE.
> And guess what?? The books are sold by Amazon.
>
> I just had to blow steam off about this.? I find the only way is to
> cancel my MasterCard and join up with a different credit card.? ? The bank
> bod told me that they can follow me across to a new MasterCard -what ????
> So it has to be another card.
>
> Much mumbling in the background
> Barrie
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/dan.dibiase at gmail.com
>
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 11:32:34 -0400
From: S.Carr <britfan1 at epix.net>
To: MGs <mgs at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1980 MGB - flasher location
Message-ID: <mailman.5.1590775201.16782.mgs at autox.team.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Unfortunately we don?t know if the signals worked before the new switch was installed because some ham-handed DPO had broken the stalk and some of the plastic internals?.

Sarah C.

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: PaulHunt73
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2020 3:27 AM
To: MGs; S.Carr
Subject: Re: [Mgs] 1980 MGB - flasher location

<However if this only started when the turn switch was replaced you should check the connections there first, making sure the two connectors are fully pushed together and none of the pins have been pushed out of the back.>
?
PaulH.
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 11:24:16 -0500
From: Charley Robinson <ccrobins at ktc.com>
To: Barrie Robinson <barrob at bell.net>, "mgs at Autox.Team.Net"
??? <mgs at Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Amazon scam me thinks?
Message-ID: <4330a647-55d8-db3b-7bb9-009147fb0430 at ktc.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

There are other uses for Prime.? Video streaming channel for instance.

CR


------------------------------

Subject: Digest Footer

_______________________________________________
Mgs mailing list
Mgs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs


------------------------------

End of Mgs Digest, Vol 156, Issue 24
************************************
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Fri May 29 15:48:48 2020
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 14:48:48 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 156, Issue 24
In-Reply-To: <315587888.1898514.1590788458839@mail.yahoo.com>
References: <mailman.3.1590775201.16782.mgs@autox.team.net>
 <315587888.1898514.1590788458839@mail.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <08FB15F5-244E-4ABD-9F87-81F9C6A22131@sonic.net>

Um, what does this have to do with MGs?

--
Max Heim
mvheim at sonic.net



> On May 29, 2020, at 2:40 PM, unclstevie at aol.com wrote:
> 
> Re Amazon Prime-I am unable to get rid of them also..  I now have 10 lbs of chia seeds which i cannot use. In order t "off" Amazon Prime you must send them a copy your birth certificate or other official document (but they say u can delete any personal info such as all but the last 4 digits of your social. 
> Uh. I'm not doing that! I didn't give them that info when I signed up. Why now!?
> My credit card co won't let me out of the contract with amazon until I stoop to their (Amazon's) demand.  I sincerely HATE this.  How about a law case?
> Steve (MGA coupe and roadster guy)
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Fri, May 29, 2020 2:00 pm
> Subject: Mgs Digest, Vol 156, Issue 24
> 
> Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
>     mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs>
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>     mgs-request at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs-request at autox.team.net>
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>     mgs-owner at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs-owner at autox.team.net>
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..."
> 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive <http://www.team.net/archive>
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums <http://www.team.net/forums>
> 

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From jimray at hartcom.net  Fri May 29 16:09:58 2020
From: jimray at hartcom.net (jimray at hartcom.net)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2020 18:09:58 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 156, Issue 24
In-Reply-To: <08FB15F5-244E-4ABD-9F87-81F9C6A22131@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <f38497f2-78a3-42f9-acdd-4adbd67f7387@email.android.com>

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From barrob at bell.net  Sat May 30 07:10:33 2020
From: barrob at bell.net (Barrie Robinson)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2020 09:10:33 -0400
Subject: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 156, Issue 24
In-Reply-To: <f38497f2-78a3-42f9-acdd-4adbd67f7387@email.android.com>
References: <f38497f2-78a3-42f9-acdd-4adbd67f7387@email.android.com>
Message-ID: <d64a5fc9-8a44-6526-ddcb-73ff2a4b820c@bell.net>

Sorry folks,

I do not use "social media' at all.?? If I was a church member I would 
warn my church members. So the MG system is like a church group.? If my 
message has 'saved' just one person then getting all the lack of 
understanding was worth it.

Barrie

On 5/29/2020 6:09 PM, jimray at hartcom.net wrote:
> I agree. Should use social media for this stuff.
>
> On May 29, 2020 5:48 PM, Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> wrote:
>
>     Um, what does this have to do with MGs?
>
>     --
>     Max Heim
>     mvheim at sonic.net <mailto:mvheim at sonic.net>
>
>
>
>         On May 29, 2020, at 2:40 PM, unclstevie at aol.com
>         <mailto:unclstevie at aol.com> wrote:
>
>         Re Amazon Prime-I am unable to get rid of them also..? I now
>         have 10 lbs of chia seeds which i cannot use. In order t "off"
>         Amazon Prime you must send them a copy your birth certificate
>         or other official document (but they say u can delete any
>         personal info such as all but the last 4 digits of your social.
>         Uh. I'm not doing that! I didn't give them that info when I
>         signed up. Why now!?
>         My credit card co won't let me out of the contract with amazon
>         until I stoop to their (Amazon's) demand.? I sincerely HATE
>         this. How about a law case?
>         Steve (MGA coupe and roadster guy)
>
>
>         -----Original Message-----
>         To: mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>
>         Sent: Fri, May 29, 2020 2:00 pm
>         Subject: Mgs Digest, Vol 156, Issue 24
>
>         Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
>         mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>
>
>         To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>         http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>         or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>         mgs-request at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs-request at autox.team.net>
>
>         You can reach the person managing the list at
>         mgs-owner at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs-owner at autox.team.net>
>
>         When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more
>         specific
>         than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..."
>
>
>         Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>         Suggested annual donation $12.75
>         Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>         Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob at bell.net

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