From h.duinhoven at planet.nl  Mon Oct  7 01:40:13 2024
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl (h.duinhoven at planet.nl)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2024 09:40:13 +0200
Subject: [Mgs] B/GT gearbox mystery
In-Reply-To: <1250110833.1317283.1727129345861@epix.net>
References: <1250110833.1317283.1727129345861@epix.net>
Message-ID: <003f01db188c$24f1b530$6ed51f90$@planet.nl>

Maybe a different approach:

Are the clutch hydraulics still in good order?

A clutch which does not operate well, does not ?allow? the gearbox shift in good order. 

Check the level and when good, check the movement of the slave cylinder when fully operating the clutch pedal.

Did you notice a change in the ease of operation of the clutch pedal?

If so, this indicates clutch hydraulics issues?

 

Hans

Ex 71 BGT owner

 

 

Van: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> Namens S.Carr
Verzonden: dinsdag 24 september 2024 00:09
Aan: mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: [Mgs] B/GT gearbox mystery

 

My ?71 B/GT has suddenly developed a gearbox problem?intermittently it will not go into any gear, whether the engine is running or not.  A few minutes later it will work normally, then later refuse to shift again.  Any idea where we should look for the cause?  We assume the side plate will have to come off.  We need to fix the problem, as I want to put the car up for sale before winter sets in----

Sarah Carr

?71 B/GT in PA

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows

 

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From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Oct  7 08:37:08 2024
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2024 14:37:08 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] B/GT gearbox mystery
In-Reply-To: <003f01db188c$24f1b530$6ed51f90$@planet.nl>
References: <1250110833.1317283.1727129345861@epix.net>,
 <003f01db188c$24f1b530$6ed51f90$@planet.nl>
Message-ID: <5b09dcc029704a0bbe581dc960046c69@ranteer.com>

Try adjusting the pushrods,  making them longer.  I know it sounds crazy,  but i had a similar problem and that fixed it.   People on this list even said don't do it,  but i did it anyway.   Now it works


-------- Original message --------
From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl
Date: 10/7/24 3:19 AM (GMT-06:00)
To: "'S.Carr'" <britfan1 at epix.net>, mgs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] B/GT gearbox mystery

Maybe a different approach:
Are the clutch hydraulics still in good order?
A clutch which does not operate well, does not ?allow? the gearbox shift in good order.
Check the level and when good, check the movement of the slave cylinder when fully operating the clutch pedal.
Did you notice a change in the ease of operation of the clutch pedal?
If so, this indicates clutch hydraulics issues?

Hans
Ex 71 BGT owner


Van: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> Namens S.Carr
Verzonden: dinsdag 24 september 2024 00:09
Aan: mgs at autox.team.net
Onderwerp: [Mgs] B/GT gearbox mystery

My ?71 B/GT has suddenly developed a gearbox problem?intermittently it will not go into any gear, whether the engine is running or not.  A few minutes later it will work normally, then later refuse to shift again.  Any idea where we should look for the cause?  We assume the side plate will have to come off.  We need to fix the problem, as I want to put the car up for sale before winter sets in----
Sarah Carr
?71 B/GT in PA

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows

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From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com  Mon Oct  7 09:40:09 2024
From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2024 16:40:09 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] B/GT gearbox mystery
In-Reply-To: <5b09dcc029704a0bbe581dc960046c69@ranteer.com>
References: <1250110833.1317283.1727129345861@epix.net>
 <003f01db188c$24f1b530$6ed51f90$@planet.nl>
 <5b09dcc029704a0bbe581dc960046c69@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <6bc35974-c133-43cc-afee-983aa8a374b0@gmail.com>

If you mean the clutch pushrods, if that appeared to fix it then 
something else was wrong that was fixed in the process.

All the slave pushrod does is position the slave piston in the slave 
cylinder.? The MGB system is self-adjusting which means that when you 
release the clutch pedal the clutch cover springs push the release ring 
back, which pushes the release bearing back, which pushes the release 
arm back, which pushes the slave push-rod and piston back, which pushes 
fluid back into the master reservoir.? The length of the slave push-rod 
doesn't directly affect that.? If it's too long it can bottom the piston 
in the cylinder and prevent the clutch from being fully engaged, which 
can cause clutch slip.? If it's too short fluid displacement from the 
master can push the piston out of the end of the cylinder.

If the master push-rod is shorter than it should be then the pedal 
footpad is lower than it should be, it doesn't travel as far as it 
should before reaching the floor and you get a low biting point.? That 
can cause grinding when selecting reverse, which was covered way back, 
and there has been no response to that or any of the suggestions.? If 
that push-rod is lengthened the pedal pad sits higher and can travel 
further, which can push the pressure seal to the end of the cylinder and 
damage it.

PaulH.

On 07/10/2024 15:37, dave northrup wrote:
> Try adjusting the pushrods,? making them longer.? I know it sounds 
> crazy,? but i had a similar problem and that fixed it.? ?People on 
> this list even said don't do it,? but i did it anyway.? ?Now it works
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From lrc at red4est.com  Mon Oct  7 11:05:21 2024
From: lrc at red4est.com (Larry Colen)
Date: Mon, 7 Oct 2024 10:05:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] B/GT gearbox mystery
In-Reply-To: <5b09dcc029704a0bbe581dc960046c69@ranteer.com>
References: <1250110833.1317283.1727129345861@epix.net>
 <003f01db188c$24f1b530$6ed51f90$@planet.nl>
 <5b09dcc029704a0bbe581dc960046c69@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <5A27A512-8C64-459D-A104-351F6F5BA931@red4est.com>



> On Oct 7, 2024, at 7:37 AM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> Try adjusting the pushrods,  making them longer.  I know it sounds crazy,  but i had a similar problem and that fixed it.   People on this list even said don't do it,  but i did it anyway.   Now it works

This is the difference between a clever idea and a good idea.  When I bought my Sprite in 1980, the throw out bearing was dead.  I got it home, replaced the throw out and the clutch, drove it for about a month and the throw out had worn out again.

The DPO had welded an extension to the rod, which gave it a bit more throw, but kept the throw out bearing in contact with the clutch, wearing the carbon disk entirely away in just a short while.

Now that you can get throw outs with real bearings, rather than the carbon disk, they will likely last a bit longer, but those bearings aren't meant for constant use.

So, yeah, there's a good reason why people say don't do that.  I've got the toothmarks on my butt from someone implementing that very "solution".


> 
> 
> -------- Original message --------
> From: h.duinhoven at planet.nl 
> Date: 10/7/24 3:19 AM (GMT-06:00) 
> To: "'S.Carr'" <britfan1 at epix.net>, mgs at autox.team.net 
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] B/GT gearbox mystery 
> 
> Maybe a different approach:
> Are the clutch hydraulics still in good order?
> A clutch which does not operate well, does not ?allow? the gearbox shift in good order.
> Check the level and when good, check the movement of the slave cylinder when fully operating the clutch pedal.
> Did you notice a change in the ease of operation of the clutch pedal?
> If so, this indicates clutch hydraulics issues?
>  
> Hans
> Ex 71 BGT owner
>  
>  
> Van: Mgs <mgs-bounces at autox.team.net> Namens S.Carr
> Verzonden: dinsdag 24 september 2024 00:09
> Aan: mgs at autox.team.net
> Onderwerp: [Mgs] B/GT gearbox mystery
>  
> My ?71 B/GT has suddenly developed a gearbox problem?intermittently it will not go into any gear, whether the engine is running or not.  A few minutes later it will work normally, then later refuse to shift again.  Any idea where we should look for the cause?  We assume the side plate will have to come off.  We need to fix the problem, as I want to put the car up for sale before winter sets in----
> Sarah Carr
> ?71 B/GT in PA
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows
>  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lrc at red4est.com

--
Larry Colen
lrc at red4est.com  sent from ret13est





From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com  Tue Oct  8 01:18:02 2024
From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 8 Oct 2024 08:18:02 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] B/GT gearbox mystery
In-Reply-To: <5A27A512-8C64-459D-A104-351F6F5BA931@red4est.com>
References: <1250110833.1317283.1727129345861@epix.net>
 <003f01db188c$24f1b530$6ed51f90$@planet.nl>
 <5b09dcc029704a0bbe581dc960046c69@ranteer.com>
 <5A27A512-8C64-459D-A104-351F6F5BA931@red4est.com>
Message-ID: <6c4f934e-1727-4d5b-86d9-8c31ffb400c7@gmail.com>

Exactly.? The only pressure of the release bearing on the cover plate 
should be from the light spring that is inside the slave cylinder.? When 
released you should be able to push the piston further back into the 
cylinder with the release arm, which displaces fluid into the master 
(watch it doesn't overflow).? When you release it again it should slowly 
come back out to put the release bearing back in contact with the cover 
plate.

That's what makes it self-adjusting - the piston moves out bit by as the 
release bearing and friction plate wear down, then is put back in again 
when you replace them.

It's exactly the same as calipers and pads.? Has anyone ever suggested 
you change the length of the pistons if you have a brake fault?? If they 
are too long you wouldn't be able to get the caliper with new pads over 
a new disk.? If they are too short you can push the seals past the end 
of the cylinders.

PaulH.

On 07/10/2024 18:05, Larry Colen wrote:
> The DPO had welded an extension to the rod, which gave it a bit more throw, but kept the throw out bearing in contact with the clutch, wearing the carbon disk entirely away in just a short while.
>
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From wkilleffer at epbfi.com  Mon Oct 14 09:23:22 2024
From: wkilleffer at epbfi.com (wkilleffer at epbfi.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2024 11:23:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB windshield replacement near me
Message-ID: <1922929399.9262962.1728919402798.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>

Hello everyone, 

There's a chance I have asked this question before, and if so, I must apologize. If I have asked it before, it was likely before the pandemic, and that slowed everything down. I've also had a few deaths in the family that slowed me down in other ways. But now I have time and money, so it's time for this long overdue task to be complete. 

My 1974 MGB is in dire need of a new windshield. It's to the point that I shouldn't drive it at night or at times when I'm driving into the sunrise or sunset. 

I realize this is no one's favorite MGB repair task, and I know better than to take it on by myself. Frankly, I would rather pay a knowledgeable person to do the job and not worry too much about it. I'm not involved with any clubs and while I do have a couple of "car guy" friends, this is outside of what I could enlist them to help with. I'm kind of a "lone wolf" in this regard, and most of the time, I don't mind. But then something like this comes up, and resources seem slim on the ground. 

Gang, I'm sick and tired of not being able to drive my car, and this is a major factor in what's keeping me from enjoying it. The brakes are great and I have the engine running better than it has almost since I got it. But if it's not safe to drive due to vision, then it just sits in the garage. 

I live in the Chattanooga, Tennessee USA metro area, and know that none of the "chain store" glass places are going to be up for something like this. I'm not sure there's still a local glass shop around here or not. There is a shop not too far from here which specializes in British car work and restoration, but they haven't returned my calls. I may try them again this week now that the local show is over, but they may not want to do this kind of work. 

This is doubly frustrating now that I have the money, but can't find someone to do the work. 

Any thoughts, or anyone nearby who knows the scene better than I do? 

Thank you, 
-Bill 

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From wkilleffer at epbfi.com  Mon Oct 14 11:50:20 2024
From: wkilleffer at epbfi.com (wkilleffer at epbfi.com)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2024 13:50:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [Mgs] MGB windshield replacement near me
In-Reply-To: <DCBDA5B6-4C95-4B2C-8439-D61B96DE795A@gmail.com>
References: <1922929399.9262962.1728919402798.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
 <DCBDA5B6-4C95-4B2C-8439-D61B96DE795A@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2118730059.9530500.1728928220521.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>

Ok, it may not be impossible to do this solo, but maybe it's best to look at whether it's a sensible idea, and I am coming to the conclusion that it's not a good idea for me to have a go at doing it by myself. 

I might be able to do it, but I would need the assistance of a knowledgeable, experienced person. I would be doing more heavy lifting and following directions. 

Some of these things you mention, I don't have the equipment. Don't have the tools. 

"Saint-like patience" Did you lapse into a foreign language for a moment? Afraid I don't grasp that concept lol. 

I guess the main idea here is that I don't want to do this. I would far rather pay a professional to do it even if it might double the price just because they have equipment and know-how that I don't. Also, I don't want the risk of causing a break or crack. If I can't take it somewhere, then at the least I need a helper who knows what they're doing and won't lead me astray or make an amateur mistake. I'm willing to pay for that, too. 


From: "Robert's New iPad" <mgbobh at gmail.com> 
To: wkilleffer at epbfi.com 
Sent: Monday, October 14, 2024 12:58:41 PM 
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB windshield replacement near me 

It?s not impossible to do by oneself. Frustrating? Absolutely. But not impossible. 
I think most go wrong, devolving into screaming, yelling and throwing things, is not planning it as a three-four day project with short days. It can be a crazy-making job, so plan to take a day?s break when one of those unreasonable complications develops. 
It?s essential to put penetrant onto the windscreen?s corner screws several days before you undertake the project.Soak and tap and even a little heat will help. 
When you extract them, put them into a map you drew on a piece of cardboard. They are of slightly different lengths. A long one in a hole intended for short screw will give a splendid diagonal crack into the new glass. 
Soap & water will work, but I think the product Ru-Glide works better. It comes in gallons, of which you will use less than a quart. Use plenty as you ease the rubbers into the channels. 
Most agree that MacDonald?s rubber is better in fit than anyone else?s. He?s not quick, though, as I am in ninth month of waiting for a GT back glass rubber. Call him; if it?s in stock, he will ship within a week. Worth the extra $$. 
When you get the four large coarse-thread fasteners out from under the dashboard, use a countersink to put a little taper to those holes. Clean the threads with a tap & die, and you might even grind a wee taper onto the bolts. It?s difficult to feel and see at the same time; give yourself this little advantage. If you get the forward two started, with a turn or two on the threads, then you can use a rope or ratchet strap to pull the windscreen back slightly, compressing the rubber flap and aligning the rear holes. It?s at this time you use a rope to pull that flap forward of the windscreen. Ru-Glide helps here too. It?s messy. 
Before socking up the four bolts, check alignment of back edge of windscreen to see that it is aligned with door vent windows as before disassembly. There is a bit of wiggle-jiggle to the four bolts; here?s where it is used. 
They did this at Abingdon in a minute, but they didn?t have the dashboard in their way and their rubber was pliable. 
Be of good cheer, with saint-like patience. They did it in 1974 and you can do it sixty years later. 
Bob 




On Oct 14, 2024, at 11:35 AM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote: 





BQ_BEGIN

Hello everyone, 

There's a chance I have asked this question before, and if so, I must apologize. If I have asked it before, it was likely before the pandemic, and that slowed everything down. I've also had a few deaths in the family that slowed me down in other ways. But now I have time and money, so it's time for this long overdue task to be complete. 

My 1974 MGB is in dire need of a new windshield. It's to the point that I shouldn't drive it at night or at times when I'm driving into the sunrise or sunset. 

I realize this is no one's favorite MGB repair task, and I know better than to take it on by myself. Frankly, I would rather pay a knowledgeable person to do the job and not worry too much about it. I'm not involved with any clubs and while I do have a couple of "car guy" friends, this is outside of what I could enlist them to help with. I'm kind of a "lone wolf" in this regard, and most of the time, I don't mind. But then something like this comes up, and resources seem slim on the ground. 

Gang, I'm sick and tired of not being able to drive my car, and this is a major factor in what's keeping me from enjoying it. The brakes are great and I have the engine running better than it has almost since I got it. But if it's not safe to drive due to vision, then it just sits in the garage. 

I live in the Chattanooga, Tennessee USA metro area, and know that none of the "chain store" glass places are going to be up for something like this. I'm not sure there's still a local glass shop around here or not. There is a shop not too far from here which specializes in British car work and restoration, but they haven't returned my calls. I may try them again this week now that the local show is over, but they may not want to do this kind of work. 

This is doubly frustrating now that I have the money, but can't find someone to do the work. 

Any thoughts, or anyone nearby who knows the scene better than I do? 

Thank you, 
-Bill 
_______________________________________________ 

Mgs at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Suggested annual donation $12.75 

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive 

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com 

BQ_END

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From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com  Tue Oct 15 01:33:13 2024
From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt)
Date: Tue, 15 Oct 2024 08:33:13 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB windshield replacement near me
In-Reply-To: <2118730059.9530500.1728928220521.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
References: <1922929399.9262962.1728919402798.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
 <DCBDA5B6-4C95-4B2C-8439-D61B96DE795A@gmail.com>
 <2118730059.9530500.1728928220521.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
Message-ID: <f444adae-927c-4fc0-898c-75a2ce34b201@gmail.com>

Additionally, the two dash centre screws are longer than they need to be 
so you can't get them out or back in with the screen fully in, they need 
to be started before it gets there.? One guess as to how I know this.? I 
cut them down - they should be pointed to pick up the captive nuts under 
the dash, got one just right and the other a bit short but a finger tip 
up from underneath lifted it just enough.? That was on an RHD though, 
may not be possible on an LHD.

There are two rubbers - the glazing rubber and the apron seal, both are 
a swine to get in when new, the apron seal wants to turn under all the 
time instead of laying flat - and that's after you have got it in the 
frame!? John Twist has a video showing this, but unless it is damaged 
leave the old one alone and reuse it. Pulling the frame together around 
the glass can be a real struggle.? Both done with lubricant - KY Jelly 
has been mentioned in the past ...

The sockets in the body for the frame legs have packing - a thick alloy 
piece and fibre piece as required, so that when slotted in they fit 
snugly and the frame does not move from side to side.? If there is a gap 
bolting up the legs can stress the glass.

The frame has quite a bit of fore and after and tilt movement with those 
four bolts in, you are aiming for the quarter-lights to just touch the 
seals on the frame uprights all the way up, not compress them anywhere, 
which can cause the Crack of Doom in the door skins.? There is a small 
screw between the two bolts, leave that in place holding the packing 
unless you need to alter it.

More here http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/screens.htm#sglass

Not surprised you don't want to tackle it yourself as a first-timer.

PaulH.


On 14/10/2024 18:50, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote:
>
> I guess the main idea here is that I don't want to do this. I would 
> far rather pay a professional to do it even if it might double the 
> price just because they have equipment and know-how that I don't. 
> Also, I don't want the risk of causing a break or crack. If I can't 
> take it somewhere, then at the least I need a helper who knows what 
> they're doing and won't lead me astray or make an amateur mistake. I'm 
> willing to pay for that, too.
>
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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Oct 23 13:25:55 2024
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2024 19:25:55 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGB electric tach
Message-ID: <89803e9211ea4522996ef8c99f33df2b@ranteer.com>

Working on an MGA with a swapped in early 5 main MGB engine.

Trying to figure out how to set up an electric tach.  With the car came an MGA tach with the internals swapped for an MGB tach but it doesn't work.  I purchased an MGB tach, and am trying to test it before I attempt to swap the internals for the non working one.

Here is a picture of the tach; there are 2 white leads, which according to the wiring diagram, one goes to the coil and one to the ignition.  Which is which?  Or should I just try them?  I know that it goes power to tach to coil.  We had the car running with the old tach but no movement of the needle before we found out that the gage was bad.

Also, I am assuming the extra spade in the tach goes to power?  At least the ground spade is obvious as its part of the case.

And, while I'm at it, the MGB wiring diagram shows one lead to the gage voltage stabilizer.  I'm thinking that can go directly to the fuse box to power?
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From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Oct 23 14:23:21 2024
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2024 13:23:21 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB electric tach
In-Reply-To: <89803e9211ea4522996ef8c99f33df2b@ranteer.com>
References: <89803e9211ea4522996ef8c99f33df2b@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <8A7A0B28-38F8-4A61-B0CC-01646E742355@sonic.net>

What year of MGB is this tach out of? It?s way too small for a Mk. I ? is it out of a pillow dash car? It also lacks the inductive loop that would be present on an early car. So this tach is certainly going to be negative earth.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On Oct 23, 2024, at 12:25?PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> Working on an MGA with a swapped in early 5 main MGB engine.
>  
> Trying to figure out how to set up an electric tach.  With the car came an MGA tach with the internals swapped for an MGB tach but it doesn?t work.  I purchased an MGB tach, and am trying to test it before I attempt to swap the internals for the non working one.
>  
> Here is a picture of the tach; there are 2 white leads, which according to the wiring diagram, one goes to the coil and one to the ignition.  Which is which?  Or should I just try them?  I know that it goes power to tach to coil.  We had the car running with the old tach but no movement of the needle before we found out that the gage was bad.
>  
> Also, I am assuming the extra spade in the tach goes to power?  At least the ground spade is obvious as its part of the case.
>  
> And, while I?m at it, the MGB wiring diagram shows one lead to the gage voltage stabilizer.  I?m thinking that can go directly to the fuse box to power?
> <20241022_175133.jpg>_______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

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From lrc at red4est.com  Wed Oct 23 14:40:51 2024
From: lrc at red4est.com (lrc at red4est.com)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2024 13:40:51 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB electric tach
In-Reply-To: <89803e9211ea4522996ef8c99f33df2b@ranteer.com>
References: <89803e9211ea4522996ef8c99f33df2b@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <0ADA0E9E-B205-4340-B2AC-B56E844DACF0@red4est.com>

Some mg tachs require current to flow through them to the points, more modern tachs just read the voltage at the points.

On October 23, 2024 12:25:55 PM PDT, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>Working on an MGA with a swapped in early 5 main MGB engine.
>
>Trying to figure out how to set up an electric tach.  With the car came an MGA tach with the internals swapped for an MGB tach but it doesn't work.  I purchased an MGB tach, and am trying to test it before I attempt to swap the internals for the non working one.
>
>Here is a picture of the tach; there are 2 white leads, which according to the wiring diagram, one goes to the coil and one to the ignition.  Which is which?  Or should I just try them?  I know that it goes power to tach to coil.  We had the car running with the old tach but no movement of the needle before we found out that the gage was bad.
>
>Also, I am assuming the extra spade in the tach goes to power?  At least the ground spade is obvious as its part of the case.
>
>And, while I'm at it, the MGB wiring diagram shows one lead to the gage voltage stabilizer.  I'm thinking that can go directly to the fuse box to power?

-- 
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
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From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Oct 23 16:24:52 2024
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave northrup)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2024 22:24:52 +0000
Subject: [Mgs] MGB electric tach
In-Reply-To: <8A7A0B28-38F8-4A61-B0CC-01646E742355@sonic.net>
References: <89803e9211ea4522996ef8c99f33df2b@ranteer.com>,
 <8A7A0B28-38F8-4A61-B0CC-01646E742355@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <09138a858da449df9b8b1317715fe8d0@ranteer.com>

I don't know what year the tach is.  This car is a conglomeration.   A Franken MGA.


-------- Original message --------
From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
Date: 10/23/24 3:23 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: mgs at autox.team.net
Cc: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB electric tach

What year of MGB is this tach out of? It?s way too small for a Mk. I ? is it out of a pillow dash car? It also lacks the inductive loop that would be present on an early car. So this tach is certainly going to be negative earth.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

On Oct 23, 2024, at 12:25?PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

Working on an MGA with a swapped in early 5 main MGB engine.

Trying to figure out how to set up an electric tach.  With the car came an MGA tach with the internals swapped for an MGB tach but it doesn?t work.  I purchased an MGB tach, and am trying to test it before I attempt to swap the internals for the non working one.

Here is a picture of the tach; there are 2 white leads, which according to the wiring diagram, one goes to the coil and one to the ignition.  Which is which?  Or should I just try them?  I know that it goes power to tach to coil.  We had the car running with the old tach but no movement of the needle before we found out that the gage was bad.

Also, I am assuming the extra spade in the tach goes to power?  At least the ground spade is obvious as its part of the case.

And, while I?m at it, the MGB wiring diagram shows one lead to the gage voltage stabilizer.  I?m thinking that can go directly to the fuse box to power?
<20241022_175133.jpg>_______________________________________________

Mgs at autox.team.net<mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

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From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Oct 23 17:13:40 2024
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2024 16:13:40 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB electric tach
In-Reply-To: <1fae276ab3b0450ca7673cdbaeaedb2a@ranteer.com>
References: <89803e9211ea4522996ef8c99f33df2b@ranteer.com>
 <8A7A0B28-38F8-4A61-B0CC-01646E742355@sonic.net>
 <1fae276ab3b0450ca7673cdbaeaedb2a@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <58C97ACC-4AB7-4EEE-9AD1-09E40B273366@sonic.net>

As far as I can tell, you have a 3.5? diameter tach from a 1968-up MGB. So you should probably look at the wiring diagram for one of these years. I don't have any personal experience because I deal strictly with pre-68 Bs.

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB



> On Oct 23, 2024, at 3:25?PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> Thank you for taking the time to answer
> 
> 
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
> Date: 10/23/24 3:23 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: mgs at autox.team.net
> Cc: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB electric tach
> 
> What year of MGB is this tach out of? It?s way too small for a Mk. I ? is it out of a pillow dash car? It also lacks the inductive loop that would be present on an early car. So this tach is certainly going to be negative earth.
> 
> --
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB
> 
>> On Oct 23, 2024, at 12:25?PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Working on an MGA with a swapped in early 5 main MGB engine.
>>  
>> Trying to figure out how to set up an electric tach.  With the car came an MGA tach with the internals swapped for an MGB tach but it doesn?t work.  I purchased an MGB tach, and am trying to test it before I attempt to swap the internals for the non working one.
>>  
>> Here is a picture of the tach; there are 2 white leads, which according to the wiring diagram, one goes to the coil and one to the ignition.  Which is which?  Or should I just try them?  I know that it goes power to tach to coil.  We had the car running with the old tach but no movement of the needle before we found out that the gage was bad.
>>  
>> Also, I am assuming the extra spade in the tach goes to power?  At least the ground spade is obvious as its part of the case.
>>  
>> And, while I?m at it, the MGB wiring diagram shows one lead to the gage voltage stabilizer.  I?m thinking that can go directly to the fuse box to power?
>> <20241022_175133.jpg>_______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net
> 

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From mvheim at sonic.net  Wed Oct 23 18:39:00 2024
From: mvheim at sonic.net (Max Heim)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2024 17:39:00 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB electric tach
In-Reply-To: <afd9ea2df8e0419ca838b6abfc2aaea0@ranteer.com>
References: <89803e9211ea4522996ef8c99f33df2b@ranteer.com>
 <8A7A0B28-38F8-4A61-B0CC-01646E742355@sonic.net>
 <1fae276ab3b0450ca7673cdbaeaedb2a@ranteer.com>
 <58C97ACC-4AB7-4EEE-9AD1-09E40B273366@sonic.net>
 <afd9ea2df8e0419ca838b6abfc2aaea0@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <57D54816-0A5E-4FF6-8360-FEEC0828A677@sonic.net>


As you figured out, one white goes to ?L? on the ignition switch, and the other to the coil +. Based on the overall alignment, I am going to say the left one goes to the switch and the right one to the coil.

The blade sticking out in the middle will be the ground to the case, which will be black.

That leaves the other blade as green to the voltage stabilizer.

FWIW...

--
Max Heim
'66 MGB

> On Oct 23, 2024, at 4:19?PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> 
> The wiring diagram shows 4 connections to the back of the tach.  I have found nothing which shows which goes to which.  I guess I can assume that the diagram is looking at the back of the tach but that?s as much detail as it shows.
>  
> From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net> 
> Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2024 6:14 PM
> To: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
> Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net> <mgs at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB electric tach
>  
> As far as I can tell, you have a 3.5? diameter tach from a 1968-up MGB. So you should probably look at the wiring diagram for one of these years. I don't have any personal experience because I deal strictly with pre-68 Bs.
>  
> --
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB 
>  
>  
> 
> 
> On Oct 23, 2024, at 3:25?PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com>> wrote:
>  
> Thank you for taking the time to answer 
>  
>  
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net <mailto:mvheim at sonic.net>>
> Date: 10/23/24 3:23 PM (GMT-06:00) 
> To: mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:mgs at autox.team.net>
> Cc: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com>>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB electric tach 
>  
> What year of MGB is this tach out of? It?s way too small for a Mk. I ? is it out of a pillow dash car? It also lacks the inductive loop that would be present on an early car. So this tach is certainly going to be negative earth.
>  
> --
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB 
> 
> 
> On Oct 23, 2024, at 12:25?PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com <mailto:dave at ranteer.com>> wrote:
>  
> Working on an MGA with a swapped in early 5 main MGB engine.
>  
> Trying to figure out how to set up an electric tach.  With the car came an MGA tach with the internals swapped for an MGB tach but it doesn?t work.  I purchased an MGB tach, and am trying to test it before I attempt to swap the internals for the non working one.
>  
> Here is a picture of the tach; there are 2 white leads, which according to the wiring diagram, one goes to the coil and one to the ignition.  Which is which?  Or should I just try them?  I know that it goes power to tach to coil.  We had the car running with the old tach but no movement of the needle before we found out that the gage was bad.
>  
> Also, I am assuming the extra spade in the tach goes to power?  At least the ground spade is obvious as its part of the case.
>  
> And, while I?m at it, the MGB wiring diagram shows one lead to the gage voltage stabilizer.  I?m thinking that can go directly to the fuse box to power?
> <20241022_175133.jpg>_______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net <mailto:Mgs at autox.team.net>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim at sonic.net

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From paulbhunt73 at gmail.com  Thu Oct 24 02:09:16 2024
From: paulbhunt73 at gmail.com (Paul Hunt)
Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2024 09:09:16 +0100
Subject: [Mgs] MGB electric tach
In-Reply-To: <89803e9211ea4522996ef8c99f33df2b@ranteer.com>
References: <89803e9211ea4522996ef8c99f33df2b@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <dc0c4c42-f968-469b-9205-9fef65c03208@gmail.com>

That is a late internal inductive pickup so probably negative earth.? It 
has male and female bullets for two white wires, the wrong way round the 
tach won't work and the right way it should but original the gender of 
the wires was correct for the internals.? The spade is for 12v.? They 
were used on the MGB until the 1973 model year so could be either 
positive or negative earth, usually printed on the dial,? but positive 
could have been converted to negative by a PO.

 From 73 voltage triggered tachs were used with a single white/black 
wire from the coil -ve to a single bullet on the back of the case with 
the spade for the 12v supply, earth again either a spade on the case or 
a black wire under one of the fixings.? All negative earth of course.

The tach 12v feed comes from the voltage stabiliser as that is just a 
convenient point for picking up the 12v supply rather than going all the 
way back to the fusebox.? It is a green wire i.e. fused ignition that 
feeds the stabiliser as well as the tach, power is not passing through 
the stabiliser to the tach.

PaulH.

On 23/10/2024 20:25, dave northrup wrote:
>
> Working on an MGA with a swapped in early 5 main MGB engine.
>
> Trying to figure out how to set up an electric tach.? With the car 
> came an MGA tach with the internals swapped for an MGB tach but it 
> doesn?t work.? I purchased an MGB tach, and am trying to test it 
> before I attempt to swap the internals for the non working one.
>
> Here is a picture of the tach; there are 2 white leads, which 
> according to the wiring diagram, one goes to the coil and one to the 
> ignition.? Which is which?? Or should I just try them?? I know that it 
> goes power to tach to coil.? We had the car running with the old tach 
> but no movement of the needle before we found out that the gage was bad.
>
> Also, I am assuming the extra spade in the tach goes to power?? At 
> least the ground spade is obvious as its part of the case.
>
> And, while I?m at it, the MGB wiring diagram shows one lead to the 
> gage voltage stabilizer.? I?m thinking that can go directly to the 
> fuse box to power?
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs  http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/paulbhunt73 at gmail.com
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From lrc-r4 at sonic.net  Mon Oct 14 13:02:38 2024
From: lrc-r4 at sonic.net (larry Colen)
Date: Mon, 14 Oct 2024 12:02:38 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB windshield replacement near me
In-Reply-To: <2118730059.9530500.1728928220521.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
References: <1922929399.9262962.1728919402798.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
 <DCBDA5B6-4C95-4B2C-8439-D61B96DE795A@gmail.com>
 <2118730059.9530500.1728928220521.JavaMail.zimbra@epbfi.com>
Message-ID: <242532dfb11d49d2248c7a2471f99f01@sonic.net>

I pulled and installed the windshield on the Cortina I raced, some long 
time readers of SOL may remember stories of foocar.  It was fairly 
simple.  When I had the windshield in my MGB-GT replaced, the 
professional had quite the struggle.

BTW, if you have comprehensive insurance on your car, it may well cover 
windshield replacement.

---
Larry Colen, lrc at red4est.com hosted at sonic

On 2024-10-14 10:50, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote:
> Ok, it may not be impossible to do this solo, but maybe it's best to
> look at whether it's a sensible idea, and I am coming to the
> conclusion that it's not a good idea for me to have a go at doing it
> by myself.
> 
> I might be able to do it, but I would need the assistance of a
> knowledgeable, experienced person. I would be doing more heavy lifting
> and following directions.
> 
> Some of these things you mention, I don't have the equipment. Don't
> have the tools.
> 
> "Saint-like patience" Did you lapse into a foreign language for a
> moment? Afraid I don't grasp that concept lol.
> 
> I guess the main idea here is that I don't want to do this. I would
> far rather pay a professional to do it even if it might double the
> price just because they have equipment and know-how that I don't.
> Also, I don't want the risk of causing a break or crack. If I can't
> take it somewhere, then at the least I need a helper who knows what
> they're doing and won't lead me astray or make an amateur mistake. I'm
> willing to pay for that, too.
> 
> -------------------------
> 
> From: "Robert's New iPad" <mgbobh at gmail.com>
> To: wkilleffer at epbfi.com
> Sent: Monday, October 14, 2024 12:58:41 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB windshield replacement near me
> 
>  It?s not impossible to do by oneself.  Frustrating? Absolutely. But
> not impossible.
>  I think most go wrong, devolving into screaming, yelling and throwing
> things, is not planning it as a three-four day project with short
> days.  It can be a crazy-making job, so plan to take a day?s break
> when one of those unreasonable complications develops.
>  It?s essential to put penetrant onto the windscreen?s corner
> screws several days before you undertake the project.Soak and tap and
> even a little heat will help.
>  When you extract them, put them into a map you drew on a piece of
> cardboard. They are of slightly different lengths. A long one in a
> hole intended for short screw will give a splendid diagonal crack into
> the new glass.
>  Soap & water will work, but I think the product Ru-Glide works
> better. It comes in gallons, of which you will use less than a quart.
> Use plenty as you ease the rubbers into the channels.
>  Most agree that MacDonald?s rubber is better in fit than anyone
> else?s.  He?s not quick, though, as I am in ninth month of waiting
> for a GT back glass rubber. Call him; if it?s in stock, he will ship
> within a week.  Worth the extra $$.
>  When you get the four large coarse-thread fasteners out from under
> the dashboard, use a countersink to put a little taper to those holes.
> Clean the threads with a tap & die, and you might even grind a wee
> taper onto the bolts.   It?s difficult to feel and see at the same
> time; give yourself this little advantage.  If you get the forward two
> started, with a turn or two on the threads, then you can use a rope or
> ratchet strap to pull the windscreen back slightly, compressing the
> rubber flap and aligning the rear holes.  It?s at this time you use
> a rope to pull that flap forward of the windscreen. Ru-Glide helps
> here too. It?s messy.
>  Before socking up the four bolts, check alignment of back edge of
> windscreen to see that it is aligned with door vent windows as before
> disassembly.  There is a bit of wiggle-jiggle to the four bolts;
> here?s where it is used.
>  They did this at Abingdon in a minute, but they didn?t have the
> dashboard in their way and their rubber was pliable.
>  Be of good cheer, with saint-like patience.  They did it in 1974 and
> you can do it sixty years later.
> Bob
> 
>> On Oct 14, 2024, at 11:35?AM, wkilleffer at epbfi.com wrote:
> 
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>> There's a chance I have asked this question before, and if so, I
>> must apologize. If I have asked it before, it was likely before the
>> pandemic, and that slowed everything down. I've also had a few
>> deaths in the family that slowed me down in other ways. But now I
>> have time and money, so it's time for this long overdue task to be
>> complete.
>> 
>> My 1974 MGB is in dire need of a new windshield. It's to the point
>> that I shouldn't drive it at night or at times when I'm driving into
>> the sunrise or sunset.
>> 
>> I realize this is no one's favorite MGB repair task, and I know
>> better than to take it on by myself. Frankly, I would rather pay a
>> knowledgeable person to do the job and not worry too much about it.
>> I'm not involved with any clubs and while I do have a couple of "car
>> guy" friends, this is outside of what I could enlist them to help
>> with. I'm kind of a "lone wolf" in this regard, and most of the
>> time, I don't mind. But then something like this comes up, and
>> resources seem slim on the ground.
>> 
>> Gang, I'm sick and tired of not being able to drive my car, and this
>> is a major factor in what's keeping me from enjoying it. The brakes
>> are great and I have the engine running better than it has almost
>> since I got it. But if it's not safe to drive due to vision, then it
>> just sits in the garage.
>> 
>> I live in the Chattanooga, Tennessee USA metro area, and know that
>> none of the "chain store" glass places are going to be up for
>> something like this. I'm not sure there's still a local glass shop
>> around here or not. There is a shop not too far from here which
>> specializes in British car work and restoration, but they haven't
>> returned my calls. I may try them again this week now that the local
>> show is over, but they may not want to do this kind of work.
>> 
>> This is doubly frustrating now that I have the money, but can't find
>> someone to do the work.
>> 
>> Any thoughts, or anyone nearby who knows the scene better than I do?
>> 
>> Thank you,
>> -Bill
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs
>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mgbobh at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Mgs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> 
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs 
> http://autox.team.net/archive
> 
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/lrc at red4est.com

From lrc-r4 at sonic.net  Wed Oct 23 20:18:17 2024
From: lrc-r4 at sonic.net (larry Colen)
Date: Wed, 23 Oct 2024 19:18:17 -0700
Subject: [Mgs] MGB electric tach
In-Reply-To: <57D54816-0A5E-4FF6-8360-FEEC0828A677@sonic.net>
References: <89803e9211ea4522996ef8c99f33df2b@ranteer.com>
 <8A7A0B28-38F8-4A61-B0CC-01646E742355@sonic.net>
 <1fae276ab3b0450ca7673cdbaeaedb2a@ranteer.com>
 <58C97ACC-4AB7-4EEE-9AD1-09E40B273366@sonic.net>
 <afd9ea2df8e0419ca838b6abfc2aaea0@ranteer.com>
 <57D54816-0A5E-4FF6-8360-FEEC0828A677@sonic.net>
Message-ID: <94855c1142a2bd7d32e15f00791b27f5@sonic.net>


As I remember, it doesn't matter a lot which way the current flows 
between the ignition switch and the coil through the tach.  It may, or 
it may depend on the ground, note that the bullet connectors are 
polarized, but you could rig up a test easily enough with alligator 
clips and if it doesn't work just reverse them.


---
Larry Colen, lrc at red4est.com hosted at sonic

On 2024-10-23 17:39, Max Heim wrote:
> As you figured out, one white goes to ?L? on the ignition switch,
> and the other to the coil +. Based on the overall alignment, I am
> going to say the left one goes to the switch and the right one to the
> coil.
> 
> The blade sticking out in the middle will be the ground to the case,
> which will be black.
> 
> That leaves the other blade as green to the voltage stabilizer.
> 
> FWIW...
> 
>  --
> Max Heim
> '66 MGB
> 
>> On Oct 23, 2024, at 4:19?PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The wiring diagram shows 4 connections to the back of the tach.  I
>> have found nothing which shows which goes to which.  I guess I can
>> assume that the diagram is looking at the back of the tach but
>> that?s as much detail as it shows.
>> 
>> From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2024 6:14 PM
>> To: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
>> Cc: <mgs at autox.team.net> <mgs at autox.team.net>
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB electric tach
>> 
>> As far as I can tell, you have a 3.5? diameter tach from a 1968-up
>> MGB. So you should probably look at the wiring diagram for one of
>> these years. I don't have any personal experience because I deal
>> strictly with pre-68 Bs.
>> 
>> --
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB
>> 
>> On Oct 23, 2024, at 3:25?PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Thank you for taking the time to answer
>> 
>> -------- Original message --------
>> 
>> From: Max Heim <mvheim at sonic.net>
>> 
>> Date: 10/23/24 3:23 PM (GMT-06:00)
>> 
>> To: mgs at autox.team.net
>> 
>> Cc: dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
>> 
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] MGB electric tach
>> 
>> What year of MGB is this tach out of? It?s way too small for a Mk.
>> I ? is it out of a pillow dash car? It also lacks the inductive
>> loop that would be present on an early car. So this tach is
>> certainly going to be negative earth.
>> 
>> --
>> Max Heim
>> '66 MGB
>> 
>> On Oct 23, 2024, at 12:25?PM, dave northrup <dave at ranteer.com>
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Working on an MGA with a swapped in early 5 main MGB engine.
>> 
>> Trying to figure out how to set up an electric tach.  With the car
>> came an MGA tach with the internals swapped for an MGB tach but it
>> doesn?t work.  I purchased an MGB tach, and am trying to test it
>> before I attempt to swap the internals for the non working one.
>> 
>> Here is a picture of the tach; there are 2 white leads, which
>> according to the wiring diagram, one goes to the coil and one to the
>> ignition.  Which is which?  Or should I just try them?  I know that
>> it goes power to tach to coil.  We had the car running with the old
>> tach but no movement of the needle before we found out that the gage
>> was bad.
>> 
>> Also, I am assuming the extra spade in the tach goes to power?  At
>> least the ground spade is obvious as its part of the case.
>> 
>> And, while I?m at it, the MGB wiring diagram shows one lead to the
>> gage voltage stabilizer.  I?m thinking that can go directly to the
>> fuse box to power?
>> <20241022_175133.jpg>_______________________________________________
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