From john.bullas at gmail.com Sun Jul 5 12:56:14 2020 From: john.bullas at gmail.com (Dr John C Bullas) Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 19:56:14 +0100 Subject: [Mini] DIY brake pipe manufacture Message-ID: Can anyone point me to a reliable and easy brake pipe flaring tool and a UK source of brake pipe? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jlieberman37 at comcast.net Sun Jul 5 15:59:33 2020 From: jlieberman37 at comcast.net (John Lieberman) Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 16:59:33 -0500 Subject: [Mini] Rear seat belt question Message-ID: Can anybody tell me, with some degree of certainty, whether the '81 Mini came with provisions for mounting 3-point seat belts in the rear?? My '81 that I imported to the US from England last year just has 2-point lap belts in the rear and they seriously need replacing.? There are holes in the C-pillar trim where, I assume, the top part of a 3-point belt would be attached.? However, I can find no threaded hole in the metal body work behind that trim that would accept a bolt.? Thanks for any input you can provide. John -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus From brett at nicho.id.au Sun Jul 5 16:04:18 2020 From: brett at nicho.id.au (Brett Nicholson) Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 08:04:18 +1000 Subject: [Mini] Rear seat belt question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi John, On some Minis the top mount is near the middle of the parcel shelf just below the rear window or in the parcel shelf just below the C pillar. Check if you have captive nuts for the belts there. Cheers, Brett Nicholson (bnicho) Greendale, Victoria, Australia. On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 7:59 AM John Lieberman wrote: > Can anybody tell me, with some degree of certainty, whether the '81 Mini > came with provisions for mounting 3-point seat belts in the rear? My > '81 that I imported to the US from England last year just has 2-point > lap belts in the rear and they seriously need replacing. There are > holes in the C-pillar trim where, I assume, the top part of a 3-point > belt would be attached. However, I can find no threaded hole in the > metal body work behind that trim that would accept a bolt. Thanks for > any input you can provide. > > John > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > _______________________________________________ > Mini-list at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mini-list/brett at nicho.id.au > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jlieberman37 at comcast.net Sun Jul 5 16:09:43 2020 From: jlieberman37 at comcast.net (John Lieberman) Date: Sun, 5 Jul 2020 17:09:43 -0500 Subject: [Mini] Rear seat belt question In-Reply-To: References:

Message-ID: <48e51503-f8bb-c60f-dcd2-ac11ec59de1b@comcast.net> Thanks, Brett.? I'll check that tomorrow. John On 7/5/2020 5:04 PM, Brett Nicholson wrote: > Hi John, > > On some Minis the top mount is near the middle of the parcel shelf > just below the rear window or in the parcel shelf just below the C > pillar.? Check if you have captive nuts for the belts there. > > Cheers, > Brett Nicholson (bnicho) > Greendale, Victoria, Australia. > > > On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 7:59 AM John Lieberman > > wrote: > > Can anybody tell me, with some degree of certainty, whether the > '81 Mini > came with provisions for mounting 3-point seat belts in the rear?? My > '81 that I imported to the US from England last year just has 2-point > lap belts in the rear and they seriously need replacing. There are > holes in the C-pillar trim where, I assume, the top part of a 3-point > belt would be attached.? However, I can find no threaded hole in the > metal body work behind that trim that would accept a bolt. Thanks for > any input you can provide. > > John > > > -- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus > > _______________________________________________ > Mini-list at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation? $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mini-list/brett at nicho.id.au > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tkmvs at hotmail.com Mon Jul 6 01:25:16 2020 From: tkmvs at hotmail.com (T VS) Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 07:25:16 +0000 Subject: [Mini] DIY brake pipe manufacture In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I?ve used for years a simple clamp one (which takes multiple pipe sizes) and has a cast horseshoe shaped press which slides over. Works on soft copper, copper and just about steel pipes. I used to work in a garage where we had a vice mounted hydraulic one - that was great but no good for doing pipes on a car! Pipe I just buy from the local independent motor factors but have also used eBay! Soft copper is very easy to work with and can be bent by hand but never looks that neat. Hard copper needs a pipe bender but can look OEM with care ?? > On 5 Jul 2020, at 7:56 pm, Dr John C Bullas wrote: > > ? > Can anyone point me to a reliable and easy brake pipe flaring tool and a UK source of brake pipe? > _______________________________________________ > Mini-list at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mini-list/tkmvs at hotmail.com > From john.bullas at gmail.com Mon Jul 6 06:21:44 2020 From: john.bullas at gmail.com (Dr John C Bullas) Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 13:21:44 +0100 Subject: [Mini] Fwd: Brake Flaring Tools In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: Lock Horsburgh Date: Mon, Jul 6, 2020, 12:40 PM Subject: Brake Flaring Tools To: john.bullas at gmail.com Hi John, I am unable to post to or login to the Yahoo group, but I still see your emails. I use, and am delighted with, this tool https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Brake-Burning-situ-16-SAE/dp/B01M4RC2YW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=brake&m=A10QL4DLSICX54&qid=1594028307&s=merchant-items&sr=1-1 This was recommended by my MOT man. It is the best tool I have used, much better IMHO that the kit with the sold as laser and several other brands, it handles single and double flares on copper, kunifer and steel pipes. The only one I have used that works on steel pipe. Works for imperial and metric unions. It's reliable, but take care not to cross-thread the spacer (the short bolt) or the punch in the two halves of the block, when setting up. Note that the version sold for DIN flares just does male/single flares, not double/female flares - and the Suzuki I am working on has mostly male flares, but female flares with 10mm unions to the brake hoses.. It's the only one I have had that could flare steel pipes properly, so on a modern car (e.g. 20 year old micra, fiesta, ka) where most of the pipe under the floor is covered in plastic, but the last bit under the is bare metal and rots, you can cut the pipe, clean the plastic and the paint off for a couple of inches, flare the end, and add a short length to connect to the brake hose without having to take taking the tank off and struggling to fit pipes through the engine compartment. Pipe - These days I use copper pipe, which is readily available and the easiest to work with - it's easy to bend to shape under the car. I have bought it from local factor, from amazon, and from Halfords and Eurocarparts, no problem with any of the suppliers. 20-30 years ago I used kunifer - copper nickel alloy - which is much easier to bend and flare than steel pipe, not as soft as copper. Copper-nickel is used by some upmarket car manufacturers rather than steel. 0 You can get kunifer on amazon, but factors don't stock it nowadays, the trade seems to use copper. Copper and kunifer pipes don't rust. A disadvantage of copper that I have experienced is that if you need to disconnect the pipe after a couple of years, e.g. to change a wheel cylinder, you may find that the union has a tight grip on the pipe, and starts to twist the pipe when you undo it. You might have to replace the pipe, or part of it. But hey, you have the technology for that. A bit of grease between the pipe and union when fitting may help, kunifer is less prone to that problem. I have seen ads for copper pipe and brass unions for classic cars; dunno if that is for practical or cosmetic reasons. HTH Lock -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tkmvs at hotmail.com Mon Jul 6 06:56:34 2020 From: tkmvs at hotmail.com (T VS) Date: Mon, 6 Jul 2020 12:56:34 +0000 Subject: [Mini] Fwd: Brake Flaring Tools In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: I use brass unions on everything now. Does save the union and pipe becoming one! On 6 Jul 2020, at 1:22 pm, Dr John C Bullas wrote: ? ---------- Forwarded message --------- From: Lock Horsburgh > Date: Mon, Jul 6, 2020, 12:40 PM Subject: Brake Flaring Tools To: john.bullas at gmail.com > Hi John, I am unable to post to or login to the Yahoo group, but I still see your emails. I use, and am delighted with, this tool https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Brake-Burning-situ-16-SAE/dp/B01M4RC2YW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=brake&m=A10QL4DLSICX54&qid=1594028307&s=merchant-items&sr=1-1 This was recommended by my MOT man. It is the best tool I have used, much better IMHO that the kit with the sold as laser and several other brands, it handles single and double flares on copper, kunifer and steel pipes. The only one I have used that works on steel pipe. Works for imperial and metric unions. It's reliable, but take care not to cross-thread the spacer (the short bolt) or the punch in the two halves of the block, when setting up. Note that the version sold for DIN flares just does male/single flares, not double/female flares - and the Suzuki I am working on has mostly male flares, but female flares with 10mm unions to the brake hoses.. It's the only one I have had that could flare steel pipes properly, so on a modern car (e.g. 20 year old micra, fiesta, ka) where most of the pipe under the floor is covered in plastic, but the last bit under the is bare metal and rots, you can cut the pipe, clean the plastic and the paint off for a couple of inches, flare the end, and add a short length to connect to the brake hose without having to take taking the tank off and struggling to fit pipes through the engine compartment. Pipe - These days I use copper pipe, which is readily available and the easiest to work with - it's easy to bend to shape under the car. I have bought it from local factor, from amazon, and from Halfords and Eurocarparts, no problem with any of the suppliers. 20-30 years ago I used kunifer - copper nickel alloy - which is much easier to bend and flare than steel pipe, not as soft as copper. Copper-nickel is used by some upmarket car manufacturers rather than steel. 0 You can get kunifer on amazon, but factors don't stock it nowadays, the trade seems to use copper. Copper and kunifer pipes don't rust. A disadvantage of copper that I have experienced is that if you need to disconnect the pipe after a couple of years, e.g. to change a wheel cylinder, you may find that the union has a tight grip on the pipe, and starts to twist the pipe when you undo it. You might have to replace the pipe, or part of it. But hey, you have the technology for that. A bit of grease between the pipe and union when fitting may help, kunifer is less prone to that problem. I have seen ads for copper pipe and brass unions for classic cars; dunno if that is for practical or cosmetic reasons. HTH Lock _______________________________________________ Mini-list at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.75 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mini-list/tkmvs at hotmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From brett at nicho.id.au Mon Jul 6 16:08:41 2020 From: brett at nicho.id.au (Brett Nicholson) Date: Tue, 7 Jul 2020 08:08:41 +1000 Subject: [Mini] Fwd: Brake Flaring Tools In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, In Australia, copper brake pipes are illegal. Kunifer are not. Straight copper has a tendency to shatter on rough roads. Cheers, Brett Nicholson (bnicho) Greendale, Victoria, Australia. On Mon, Jul 6, 2020 at 10:56 PM T VS wrote: > I use brass unions on everything now. Does save the union and pipe > becoming one! > > On 6 Jul 2020, at 1:22 pm, Dr John C Bullas wrote: > > ? > > ---------- Forwarded message --------- > From: Lock Horsburgh > Date: Mon, Jul 6, 2020, 12:40 PM > Subject: Brake Flaring Tools > To: john.bullas at gmail.com > > > Hi John, > > I am unable to post to or login to the Yahoo group, but I still see your > emails. > > I use, and am delighted with, this tool > https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Brake-Burning-situ-16-SAE/dp/B01M4RC2YW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=brake&m=A10QL4DLSICX54&qid=1594028307&s=merchant-items&sr=1-1 > > > This was recommended by my MOT man. > It is the best tool I have used, much better IMHO that the kit with the > sold as laser and several other brands, it handles single and double flares > on copper, kunifer and steel pipes. The only one I have used that works on > steel pipe. Works for imperial and metric unions. > > It's reliable, but take care not to cross-thread the spacer (the short > bolt) or the punch in the two halves of the block, when setting up. > > Note that the version sold for DIN flares just does male/single flares, > not double/female flares - and the Suzuki I am working on has mostly male > flares, but female flares with 10mm unions to the brake hoses.. > > It's the only one I have had that could flare steel pipes properly, so on > a modern car (e.g. 20 year old micra, fiesta, ka) where most of the pipe > under the floor is covered in plastic, but the last bit under the is bare > metal and rots, you can cut the pipe, clean the plastic and the paint > off for a couple of inches, flare the end, and add a short length to > connect to the brake hose without having to take taking the tank off and > struggling to fit pipes through the engine compartment. > > > Pipe - These days I use copper pipe, which is readily available and the > easiest to work with - it's easy to bend to shape under the car. I have > bought it from local factor, from amazon, and from Halfords and > Eurocarparts, no problem with any of the suppliers. > 20-30 years ago I used kunifer - copper nickel alloy - which is much > easier to bend and flare than steel pipe, not as soft as copper. > Copper-nickel is used by some upmarket car manufacturers rather than steel. > 0 > > You can get kunifer on amazon, but factors don't stock it nowadays, the > trade seems to use copper. > > Copper and kunifer pipes don't rust. > > A disadvantage of copper that I have experienced is that if you need to > disconnect the pipe after a couple of years, e.g. to change a wheel > cylinder, you may find that the union has a tight grip on the pipe, and > starts to twist the pipe when you undo it. You might have to replace the > pipe, or part of it. But hey, you have the technology for that. A bit of > grease between the pipe and union when fitting may help, kunifer is less > prone to that problem. I have seen ads for copper pipe and brass unions for > classic cars; dunno if that is for practical or cosmetic reasons. > > HTH > > Lock > > > _______________________________________________ > Mini-list at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mini-list/tkmvs at hotmail.com > > _______________________________________________ > Mini-list at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mini-list/brett at nicho.id.au > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From john.bullas at gmail.com Mon Jul 20 13:31:50 2020 From: john.bullas at gmail.com (Dr John C Bullas) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 20:31:50 +0100 Subject: [Mini] Aeroquip/braided fastening down Message-ID: How often do you clamp braided hose down to stop loss of pedal? Every 4"/10cm or more often? Jb -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jlieberman37 at comcast.net Mon Jul 20 15:47:10 2020 From: jlieberman37 at comcast.net (John Lieberman) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 16:47:10 -0500 Subject: [Mini] [minElist] Aeroquip/braided fastening down In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I would think that every 4 or 5 inches would be more than enough. After all, most braided hoses from the subframe to the caliper or wheel cylinder are longer than that. John On 7/20/2020 2:31 PM, Dr John C Bullas john.bullas at gmail.com [minilist] wrote: > How often do you clamp braided hose down to stop loss of pedal? Every > 4"/10cm or more often? > > Jb > __._,_.___ > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Posted by: Dr John C Bullas > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Reply via web post > > ? Reply to sender > > ? Reply to group > > ? Start a New Topic > > ? Messages in this topic > > (1) > > --- > > > ======================================================== > For more information: http://www.minilist.org > > Get yourself a MiniList Sticker!!!: email the list owner > > Post message: minilist at yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: minilist-subscribe at yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: minilist-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com > List owner / Moderators : minilist-owner at yahoogroups.com > ======================================================== > Visit Your Group > > > > Yahoo! Groups > > > ? Privacy > ? > Unsubscribe > ? > Terms of Use > > . > > __,_._,___ -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tkmvs at hotmail.com Mon Jul 20 13:45:22 2020 From: tkmvs at hotmail.com (T VS) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 19:45:22 +0000 Subject: [Mini] Aeroquip/braided fastening down In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I always wedge the brake peddle down - saves knackering up even standard flexies :) > On 20 Jul 2020, at 8:32 pm, Dr John C Bullas wrote: > > ? > How often do you clamp braided hose down to stop loss of pedal? Every 4"/10cm or more often? > > Jb > _______________________________________________ > Mini-list at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mini-list/tkmvs at hotmail.com > From john.bullas at gmail.com Mon Jul 20 14:18:32 2020 From: john.bullas at gmail.com (Dr John C Bullas) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 21:18:32 +0100 Subject: [Mini] Aeroquip/braided fastening down In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I mean securing the braided hoses going through the car, fastening them to the tunnel etc. On Mon, Jul 20, 2020, 8:45 PM T VS wrote: > I always wedge the brake peddle down - saves knackering up even standard > flexies :) > > > On 20 Jul 2020, at 8:32 pm, Dr John C Bullas > wrote: > > > > ? > > How often do you clamp braided hose down to stop loss of pedal? Every > 4"/10cm or more often? > > > > Jb > > _______________________________________________ > > Mini-list at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mini-list/tkmvs at hotmail.com > > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tkmvs at hotmail.com Mon Jul 20 14:46:06 2020 From: tkmvs at hotmail.com (T VS) Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2020 20:46:06 +0000 Subject: [Mini] Aeroquip/braided fastening down In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Oh sorry! Every 4-6? feels about right. I?d check if the MSA blue book had anything specifically about internal brake lines and follow that. If there is ever a challenge, you?ve got the best advice to back up your installation. On 20 Jul 2020, at 9:18 pm, Dr John C Bullas wrote: ? I mean securing the braided hoses going through the car, fastening them to the tunnel etc. On Mon, Jul 20, 2020, 8:45 PM T VS > wrote: I always wedge the brake peddle down - saves knackering up even standard flexies :) > On 20 Jul 2020, at 8:32 pm, Dr John C Bullas > wrote: > > ? > How often do you clamp braided hose down to stop loss of pedal? Every 4"/10cm or more often? > > Jb > _______________________________________________ > Mini-list at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.75 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mini-list/tkmvs at hotmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: